Use: Fashion accessoryBobbin lace edged handkerchief.

Use: Fashion accessoryBobbin lace edged handkerchief

Chemical lace. The design was machine embroidered onto a base fabric which was then chemically dissolved away.Collar with standing neck edge.

Costume trimming. Probably machine madeEdging. Cut edge is irregular

Wickerwork chair with cane edges.chairs

Displayed at History House.378.1 Large teacup with a "willow pattern" style design around outside edge and at base of cup. Blue and white. Worn gold rim around edge and on handle. 378.2 "Willow pattern" style design in blue and white on saucer, with decorative gold line on edge and set 2cms within edge.

Brass 25-pounder shell case cut off above the base and made into an ashtray with 3 indentations and set in the middle of the ashtray is a .50 calibre machine gun round.Outer edge underneath - 1938 LOT 379 25PR ECC 1 Inner edge - No II S45 CY5-40 SH&S 6/40brass shell case, .50 calibre round

Inspected by Joanna Freslov, archaeologist 2.6.2008. -unusual axe head. Ground-edge tools are made from fracture-resistant stone, such as basalt. This axe would able to withstand repeated impact. The stone would have been dug or found and then roughly shaped into a tool blank with blows from a hammerstone. The edges were then sharpened and refined by grinding the tool against a coarse, gritty rock. Ground-edge tools could be held in the hand, or fashioned to be fixed onto a haft or handle.The necessary tools and equipment for hunting, fishing and warfare were one of the very few items that Aboriginals carried with them from place to place. Most were used for a multiplicity of purposes. Because many were made from raw natural materials, such as wood, generally only partial remains are found today. This stone axe head is an example of a ground-edge tool used by the early Indigenous people in Eastern Australia.A handmade stone Aboriginal axe head.aboriginal tool aboriginal stone-artefact

This salt cellar is typical of the ones used extensively for cooking or for table use at mealtime in households of the 19th and 20th centuries (popular up to about the 1970s). These were the times when salt was used more so than today in households to preserve and to add to the flavour of food. Today an item such as this may still be in a domestic kitchen cupboard but the salt would be used more sparingly.This item is retained as an example of a domestic item used extensively in the past.This is a clear glass salt cellar with a round moulded bowl with fluted edges. The bowl is on a glass stand, also with fluted edges.vintage domestic items, glass salt cellar

Cloth flag, pink, hemmed top / bottom with reinforced hanging edge with eyelet on top / bottom. Outside edge not hemmed.In red in centre: AUSTRALIAN COMFORTS FUNDflags - military history, comforts, funds

Among the early settlers in Moorabbin Shire were blacksmiths who made tools for the other settlers who were establishing the homes, market gardens, farms, orchards and various businesses. Early settlers were self reliant and repaired their own equipment for kitchen,dairy, farm, horses, carts using various tools . This hammer is typical of the type used by early settlers in Moorabbin Shire c1900c1900 Hammer with a wooden handle and metal head. The metal head a circular striking edge and a tapered wedge shaped edgehammers, early settlers, market gardeners, blacksmiths, tools, building equipment, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, mckinnon, highett, cheltenham,mcewan james pty ltd, melbourne, bunnings pty ltd,

These two bowls were from the Donor's father who was in the Royal Australian Air Force.Two medium sized bowls with blue stripe edged with gold around the rim of the bowl. Blue stamped insignia on edge.Royal Australian Air force insignia. MELBAR Made in England printed on base in blue.air force, local

Three White, damask sideboard cloths with fringed edges along the front and two ends of the cloth. The back edge is hemmed.table linen., household textiles.

These Tray Covers were made by women of the early settler families in Moorabbin Shire c1900 and show their needlework skills . Although living conditions were basic families still held onto their traditional English and European customs and took pride in presenting elements of refined society These tray covers are examples of the dressmaking, crochet and needlework skills of the women of the early settler families in Moorabbin Shire c1900 4 oval and 1 rectangular small white linen Doilies with crochet and coloured and white needlework a) oval white with white needlework patterns and crochet edge; b) oval white with coloured flowers and crochet edge; c) oval white with coloured flowers and over-sewn edge; d) oval white with 2 coloured flowers crochet edge; d) rectangular, with coloured flowers and hemmed edgeclothing, haberdashery, crochet, doilies, brighton, moorabbin, pioneers, dressmaking, market gardeners, early settlers, craftwork , bentleigh, lacework, moorabbin shire, hunt ailsa, dairy farms, fruit orchards

Used by Mr. Livermore, Snr, and his brothers to construct dams on their properties and for neighbours. It was filled by raising the wooden handle slightly so that the cutting edge bit into the earth. It was tipped by raising the handles higher so that the cutting edge bit in so deeply that the scoop was rotated and emptied.Horse drawn earth moving scoop used for construction of dams, irrigation channels, roads, etc on a farm, orchard, or roads, or where earth needs to be moved. Scoops had no tipping mechanism and needed considerable effort to empty them.rural industry, agriculture, transport, roads

Strampp lived and worked at Clifton Pugh's artist colony Dunmoochin from 1980 to 1985. 'Into the Night' is Strampps' "own marriage painting". The wedding dress and horse, "a symbol of virility and passion" represents Strampp and the background landscape was inspired by her stay in Somerset, England. The cliff edge on the left symbolises "an audacious step into the future." The painting "is of a bride, passionate yet absent, about to embark upon a new journey in life, and of the voyage ahead. It is about acknowledging the past, and having the courage to move forward. To take risks". Strampp was largely influenced by both the new German Neo-Expressionists of the time and by English artist John Walker, which is evident in this painting. Her work took on popular stylistic trends and themes of the time, which included a painterly aesthetic and an energetic application of the medium, which transferred to an emotional and or personal connection to subject matter that was communicated symbolically. Strampp is an artist of national significance. This work encompasses themes and a style of painting (Neo - Expressionism) that was prevalent during the time of its making in the eighties. This work represents a transition from Strampp's highly regarded early paintings of heroic horses in the mid to late 1980’s to her highly regarded paintings of contemporary wedding and/or armour-like bodices dresses of the 1990s. Both the 'horse' and 'dress' were often set in empty backgrounds or dreamy/foreboding landscapes. Painted in oil on linen (x2) in a 'Neo-Expressionist' style, 'Into the Night' depicts a ghostly white horse to the right of the painting looking away from a ghostly white wedding dress to the left of the painting. The dress has sprouted white wings and is adorned with bows on the bottom edge of the dress and roses on the sleeves. The dress seems full bodied although there is no figure. The dress and horse are placed in the foreground on a stage like platform with a white curtain framing the picture to the right, and a black ladder and brown cliff edge framing the picture to the left. The background depicts a foreboding and dark cloudy sky and seascape with a firery red landscape burning on the horizon. Signed low right (1988.7b VA) with brush in purple (light) 'Adriane Strampp 87'. into the night, neo expressionism, wedding dress, horse, symbolism, painting, seascape, dramatic, emotional, poetic, strampp

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

worn on the rear of boot to edge into the flank of the horse to help urge it forward.As manufactured and sold by Holden and Frost Ca 1900Metal U shaped boot mounted projection, straps for boot mounting buckled on toe of bootequine, spur

The annual athletic meet of the Orbost District Schools Association was the occasion for this competitive shield. Each school scored points and the winner had its name inscribed onto this shield.Associated with Orbost District Schools Association school sports 1922-1929. Many of the schools mentioned on this shield have since been closed.A shield made of wood with one large brass shield in the centre and eight smaller brass plaques around the edge. Along the top is a brass banner with the words OLD BOYS CHALLENGE SHIELD.Inscribed onto the centre brass shield/plate are the words PRESENTED BY THE OLD BOYS OF THE ORBOST DISTRICT STATE SCHOOLS 1922 TO THE ONE SCHOOL TO WIN THREE TIMES BEFORE FINAL POSSESSION WON BY BETE BOLONG 1929. Around the edge, written onto the smaller plaques are JARRAHMOND 1922, ORBOST 1923, LOCHEND 1924, BETE BOLONG 1925, WAYGARA 1926, BRODRIBB 1927, BETE BOLONG 1928, BETE BOLONG 1929.school-sports orbost-district-schools athletics

Camisole. Ivory coloured fine cotton with cut out embroidery lace edge along hem with inverted Vshape. Front opening with three buttons with patterned edges. Cap sleeves. Round neckline has scalloped, embroidered edge, and insertion for a ribbon to drain the neckline. Identical inserrtion and scalloped edge on the short sleeves.costume, female, underwear

Ben Boyd enlisted in the AIF in Melbourne, 13 December 1915, giving his age as 42 years and 11 months. At that time he gave Bathurst as parish of birth, and attested that his wife Emma, next of kin, resided in Fitzroy. He gave his occupation as 'cutter'. Boyd reported to Royal Park on 6 January 1916, attached to the 22nd Battalion 11th reinforcements. He embarked for the Middle East on 29 March, and it appears that he spent the rest of his service in Egypt, apart from some four months in Palestine from September 1917 to January 1918. During this time it appears that he was attached to the 11th Light Horse Regiment Provost Corps. There were various promotions to 'temporary Corporal' and 'Acting Sergeant'. Boyd disembarked in Australia on 25 August 1919. The first reference to Yackandandah in Boyd's war record came in his application for the British War Medal and Victory Medal, in a letter dated 10 February 1924. He received those medals on or about 3 March 1924. By that time he had been working in Yackandandah for several years, having been engaged as an 'up-tp-date cutter and tailor' by Mrs Haig in 1921. He continued working as a tailor until his passing in 1957. There is an anecdotal recollection of Boyd sitting up on what was the bank counter making garments and watching the world pass by on High Street, and also reference to him replying to the toast for The Diggers, at a smoke social convened by the Returned Services League to honour Sir Kenneth Beatty, at Martin's Hotel, 8 September 1927. The Yackandandah Museum is housed in what had been the Bank of Victoria and had become the business premises and residence of Haig Tailor. The building bore the title B. Boyd Tailor as late as the 1960's. Isabella Haig sold the building and residence to Yackandandah Historical Society in 1969. Instituted by King George V in 1919 to mark the end of World War I and record the service given, the British War Medal 1914-20, was also variously known as Squeak, or Mutt. Boyd was eligible for having entered a theatre of war during specified periods and having left places of residence and rendered approved service overseas. The medal is cupro-nickel (silver?) with the effigy of George V on the obverse. The reverse has an image of St George on horseback trampling underfoot the eagle shield of the Central Powers, and a skull and cross-bones, the emblems of death. Above this is the risen sun of victory. The years 1914 and 1918 are shown on the outside edge of the reverse surface. A ribbon is attached per a top bar. The ribbon has a wide central watered stripe of orange, flanked by two narrow white stripes, which are in turn flanked by two black pin-stripes, further flanked by two outer stripes of blue. (Refer Notes.) On the obverse, "GEORGIVS V BRITT. OMN: REX ET: IND: IMP" On the reverse "1914 1918" On the edge, stamped, "4378 A-SGT. B. BOYD. PROV. CPS. A.I.F."world war 1, great war 1914 - 1918, medals, british empire

The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. Cream organdie collar. Machine embroidered with flowers and leaves at the edge of the collar. Trifoils embroidered at the neck edge of the collar. The collar is divided into three panels by two embroidered lines which open into a diamond shape at the outer edgewomen's clothing, lace, collars

Burleigh Ware have been making their products since 1851 at Middleport Pottery in Stoke-on-Trent, England.A blue and white Willow Pattern scalloped edged butter plate with the traditional oriental landscape scene on the front with a highly decorative blue and white floral raised edge and fine gold line trim around the outer edge.'Burleigh Ware, willow, made in England, 1'. This is stamped on the base of the plate on a blue leaf pattern.side plates, serving plate, butter plates

Sepia photograph of the coastline, people at the waters edge and standing on large granite blocks. Two people in a small dingy near the edge.The Quarries Cape Woolamaicape woolamai, photographs, granite quarry cape woolamai

Melbourne and Metropolitan Board of Works. Yarra 2500 [base map]. 13-21, Parishes of Keelbundora 2856 and Nillumbik 3310, Municipality of Diamond Valley 257. Shows street names, easement sizes, lot numbers, lodged plan numbers, names of prominent features, contour values, creek or river names. Central Greensborough. Prominent streets: Main Street, Para Road, St Helena Road and Diamond Creek Road.MMBW Map in 1:2500 [scale] series. Cream parchment with green tape reinforcing on edges and punched holes on left edge.mmbw, melbourne and metropolitan board of works, shire of diamond valley, greensborough - maps

Melbourne and Metropolitan Board of Works. Yarra 2500 [base map]. 12-20, Parishes of Keelbundora 2856, Municipalities of Diamond Valley 257 and 228. Shows street names, easement sizes, lot numbers, lodged plan numbers, names of prominent features, contour values, creek or river names. Watsonia Railway Station and environs. Prominent streets: Watsonia Road, Elder Street, Morwell Avenue and Nepean Street. Includes former Watsonia Technical School and Gresswell Rehabilitation Centre sites.MMBW Map in 1:2500 [scale] series. Cream parchment with green tape reinforcing on edges and punched holes on left edge.mmbw, melbourne and metropolitan board of works, shire of diamond valley, watsonia - maps