Showing 1220 items matching trim
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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
A broad and luxurious lace this length would be a beautiful trim on a lady’s gown. It appears to be a copy of a Carrickmacross Irish lace where - when handmade - the motifs are embroidered onto a muslin and net sandwich and the excess muslin is cut away. This 142.5cm length however is machine made and was very likely made on a Leavers machine which was another adaptation from John Heathcoat’s machine with the Jacquard patterning device being adapted to it in the 1830s. It was developed by John Levers in Nottingham but the ‘a’ was added to the name for ease of pronunciation in France. The Leavers machine is one of the most versatile of all machines for making patterned lace and Leavers lace was Nottingham’s chief lace product until recently.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of lace trim with scalloped edge and straight selvage edge, floral design on net ground. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a very dense machine made lace reminiscent of a Valenciennes style. The folk art style roses and interconnecting six petal flowers are set into quite a dense net ground. The trim appears to have been made on a Pusher machine - although it was only able to make the lace pattern and the net. Any outline had to be filled in later by hand using an embroidering machine. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace probably in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France. The Pusher machine was a variation on John Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine developed by Samuel Clark and James Mart in 1812. It takes its name from the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. The Jacquard apparatus was adapted to it in 1839. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. section of lace trim, with very dense valenciennes pattern, small lowers and leaves interwoven with larger motifschurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
At 9cm in width this delicately patterned length of light lace trim seems ideally suited to trimming a baby’s christening gown or a cradle. This embroidered style of lace was rarely used on fashionable garments but more widely used on bed linen and undergarments and judging by the creases in the lace, it is possibly made of silk which would have made it very expensive. There were two types of embroidery machines, the earliest was the Hand Embroidery machine invented by Joshua Heilman in France in 1828. It makes a perfect copy of hand embroidery except that all of the pattern repeats are exactly the same. The second type and the most likely to have been used for this piece is the Schiffli Embroidery machine Invented by Isaac Groebli in 1865 in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The first machines were relatively small and could be operated by a couple of people, mostly women but by the beginning of the 21st century they could be up to 18 metres in length and work with over a thousand needles. Most machine embroidered laces are made using the Schiffli machine and Nottingham in England, Plauen in Germany and St. Gallen in Switzerland still produce a great deal of embroidered lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of wide lace trim with dots on net ground and selvage edge, other edge complex scallop. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width, it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era, the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed, the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras, ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularise it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria (1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.machine made Torchon and Cluny lace trim with both edges similar, v shape design and 8 braid geometric design in centrechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim, torchon, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a lovely length of machine made lace trim which combines broderie anglaise diamonds with a subtle embroidered design. It is an insertion trim which would provide an understated embellishment to undergarments, bed linen, children’s clothing and is particularly suited for use on mob caps and aprons. Broderie anglaise patterns and techniques were copied by St Gallen embroidery machines from the 1870s onwards.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.machine length of lace trim with recurring diamond patternsLabel stuck on one end "4 1/2"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Clothing - Clothing, baby's jacket / cape, c1900
This baby's cream silk jacket / cape with lace trim is an example of the dressmaking skills of the women of the pioneer settlers families in Moorabbin Shire c1900Early settlers and market gardeners established their families in Moorabbin Shire and this item shows the skill and craftsmanship of the women of these familiesA baby’s cream, silk, jacket / cape with lace trimclothing, craftwork, brighton, moorabbin, pioneers, dressmaking, early settlers -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Clothing - Clothing, girls tunic, c1900
This small child's calico tunic with box-pleats and eyelet cotton trim was worn by a child of an early settlers family of MoorabbinEarly settlers and market gardeners established their families in Moorabbin Shire and this item shows the skill and craftsmanship of the women of these families. The Blackburn family were early settlers in Moorabbin Shire A child’s calico, box-pleated tunic with eyelet cotton trim clothing, brighton, moorabbin, dressmaking, market gardeners, early settlers, blackburn nance, craftwork -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
A hand crocheted lace, this fine example could also be called a single galloon lace due to the scalloped edge. In lace making the word ‘galloon’ refers to a braid or lace with one or two scalloped edges. These trims were sometimes made of metallic thread and used to trim military uniforms and the word comes from the French “galonner” meaning ‘to trim with braid’. Owing to the structure of the outer edge it could also be referred to as beaded lace as there is space for fine ribbon to be threaded through the stitches. This length of hand crocheted lace would have been a delicate adornment for trimming a fichu or for lingerie and children’s clothing. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet ivory lace trim with a scalloped selvedge and even diagonal patternlace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, handmade, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is a machine made lace made in the fashion of Mechlin lace - one of the best known Flemish laces. Original Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace, where the ground and the pattern are made with the same threads and the outline is picked out in fine silk. Close inspection of this lace section indicates that the net ground is hexagonal with two sides plaited and the other four are twisted. The Leavers machine was capable of producing this elegant section of lace trim. From 1841, this machine was developed to make the ground, the pattern and the outline at the same time. The working thread bobbins would be wound with a fine cotton or silk and the outline bobbins would be wound with a heavier linen thread or a heavier silk. It would be used as a delicate trim on light summer clothes, perhaps a blouse, a summery dress, to trim a parasol or perhaps to trim an elegant evening gown on which the colour of the gown would show through the fine lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Michelin lace - hexagonal net ground with two sides plaited and the other four are twisted. churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a machine made copy of a Brussels lace applique or Brussels Point border which has most likely been cut from a larger piece, perhaps a wedding veil or a net for a baby’s cradle. There are two main types under the Brussels lace heading, one is Brussels Pillow lace which is a bobbin lace and the other is Brussels Point lace which is needle run. Belgium or Flanders was one of the premium lace making centres in Europe for two reasons, one that the flax grown in the region was of a very high quality and secondly the highly skilled lace workers living in the area. The flax harvest and linen production was jealously guarded and along with neighbouring Holland which in the 16th century was joined to Belgium as Spanish Netherlands, there were many flat areas to lay out the linen for bleaching in the sun. The flax was spun into the finest linen thread in rooms kept damp to prevent the thread from becoming too brittle and the one ray of sunlight allowed was directed onto the thread. The quality of the linen made Brussels lace extremely popular for centuries and it kept pace with the changing fashions of Europe. Not all of the lace labelled as ‘Brussels’ comes from that area, the name has been given as a type rather than a source and there are many types of lace under that name. Because of the quality and the standard of the linen used, Belgian lace was one of the last types of lace to be imitated in the 19th century by mass production machinery. Because of the close chain stitch evident in this piece, a Cornelly machine may have been used to embroider this design onto machine made net.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim, with finely worked sprays of flowers intertwined with foliage and abstracted branches.Package with note "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This piece has been labelled by the Lacemakers Guild as ‘Imitation Valenciennes’which leads one to assume that it is machine made and created to look like a handmade Valenciennes trim Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front). It was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy and this section is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machineChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Imitation Valenciennes length of white lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Camisole, Late 19th century
This handmade women’s camisole features hand-worked lace yoke and trim and a drawstring peplum waist. It is one of seven handmade items of white cotton underwear, all made with beautiful needlework and embroidery skill. The lingerie once belonged to the donor’s great-grandmother’s family, the Paton family of ‘Trefnant’, Yangery, in southwest Victoria. The collection of women’s late-19th-century undergarments is an example of clothing that women would include in their wardrobes. The garments add to the study of the evolution of women's fashions and practicality for the early Australian settlers. The fine linen fabric and the careful needlework in these handmade garments and hand-worked lace trims reflect the maker’s dedication to making even serviceable garments beautiful to look at and wear. Women's camisole, short sleeves and peplum waist. Handmade from white cotton fabric, with hand-worked lace sleeve tips, neck trim and waist trim. Drawstring, tie and button closure.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, maritime village, warrnambool, great ocean road, southwest victoria, victorian era, women’s underwear, ladies’ underwear, undergarment, under-structure, 1900s undergarments, 19th-century undergarment, women’s clothing, women’s fashion, lingerie, 19th century, handmade clothing, handmade lace, hand-worked lace, camisole, paton family, trefnant, yangery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This delicate lace is hand crocheted with fine scallops each adorned with three picots. The top of the lace has been made to take a fine ribbon trim threaded through making it come under the heading of the beaded laces. This lace is so fine that it would most likely be used on table linen, kerchiefs or baby’s clothes.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet length of lace trim with scalloped edge and three picots.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, crotchet, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is an interesting insertion piece with machine made copies of bobbin made ‘spiders’ which could be highlighted by ribbon insertion. The eyelets are placed so that the inserted ribbon covers the plain areas and is highlighting the decorative spiders and the fagoted edging would be revealed. This would be another lovely embellishment for baby’s clothes and accessories such as cradle trim, pillows and pram coverings. It would also be highly suitable for the clothing, undergarments and bed linen of children.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered section of lace trim with recurrent geometric motifsjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Nhill & District Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - 1980 of Wedding dress of Debbie Jarred, Cassandra Gowns, 8 March 1980
Debra Jarred only daughter of Rex and Joan Jarred, of Broughton, married John Barber second son of Basil and Val Barber of Nhill, on 8 March 1980, at the Uniting Church, Broughton.Nhill family wedding; representing style of wedding dresses in 1980Wedding dress made by Cassandra Gowns; shoe string strap daisy lace bodice, with stand up collar of daisy lace and pleated skirt, elegantly covered with a cuffed long sleeve blouse, over skirt & belt of chiffon, flowing graceful soft train, finishing with a head-dress decorated in daisies attached to a long fine silk net veil.(2007.01.1) - Bouquet of white silk roses & ribbon(2007.01.2); white high heal lattice toe shoes with delicate ankle strap (2007.01.3), Blue lace garter & assorted crocheted bells, horse-shoe, and slippers, of satin ribbon (2007.01.4)daisy lace trim on cuffs and necklinewedding dress, 1980, broughton, debra jarred, debbie jarred, john barber, uniting church, rex & joan jarred, basil & val barber], nhill -
Orbost & District Historical Society
first half 20th century
This is a scene of Cape Conran, East Gippsland. It appears to have been a postcard which was trimmed. Cameras in the early 20th century were not a common family possession and a postcard was a common souvenir and way of sending a short message.Early photographs are very interesting records of places gone, architecture gone and people gone, showing social history such as dress, or early automobiles. This scene is of a popular tourist destination in East Gippsland.A black / white photograph of a rough ocean over rocks at Cape Conran in Far East Gippsland. It looks as if the photograph has been trimmed.cape-conran -
Williamstown High School
Apron 1969, Janie Winter, 1969
This apron was made by Janie Winter in 1969, Form 1 Needlework class - Teacher Mrs Church. Binding trim is hand sewn as is the embroidered name. The apron was used the following year in Form 2 during Cookery classes. A matching scarf (85.2) was also made in that year.Gold linen apron with red binding and pocket and rick rack trim. Embroidered with 'Janie' on top left hand front. williamstown high school, 1969, needlework, mrs church, janie winter, apron -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a machine made copy of a bobbin lace featuring ‘spiders’ and double picots on the edge. It appears to be cotton and would be a pretty trim on a mob cap, a fichu or children’s clothing. It is quite narrow and was most likely made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of a hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of torchon and the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machineThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine made bobbin lace trim with double picots, slightly ivory in colourjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Colac RSL Sub Branch
Textile - Grey Woollen Blanket with blue stripes and red trim, Woollen Blanket used at Changi POW camp belonging to William "Bill" Goodwin
Used at Changi POW camp after the fall of SingaporeHigh significanceGrey woollen blanket with blue stripes and red trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This length of machine made lace could only be made on either the Raschel or the Leavers machine, however the Raschel only produced an hexagonal ground, therefore we must lean towards the Leavers machine. The pattern in the piece is a copy of a bobbin lace with a plaited octagonal ground. The Leavers machine could reproduce all sorts of grounds, it was very versatile and operated from the mid 19th century until the present day. This lace is quite fine and would look lovely as a trim on a fichu or mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of machine lace with repeating 'spoked wheel' designs, trimmed on one side with a scalloped edgechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
National Vietnam Veterans Museum (NVVM)
Model - Model, M113 APC cutaway
Cutaway model of M113 APC includes crew and rifleman sitting on top. All hatches are open. Jerry cans and packs can be seen inside. Olive drab on orange plinth.Safety water operation instructions on inside of trim vane on frontm113 apc, cutaway model, model -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This elegant lace trim is Irish crochet lace. Crochet skills were brought to Ireland from France by Ursuline nuns in the 1700s and was mainly confined to the convents. When the Potato Blight occurred in 1845 the principal source of food and income was lost and families were destitute. Several wealthy women taught the peasant women the art of crochet and then marketed it to their wealthy friends in England and Europe thus saving many Irish families from starvation. Irish crochet is made in several parts. Women would specialize in a signature motif and would sell their motifs to stores. From there more lace workers would be employed to join them together to make a larger piece. The larger pieces would go to the master lace maker who would assemble them into the final pattern or items. Many women became the major wage earners for their families from these skills. Closer inspection of this piece reveals the initial repeated floral motif. To get an idea of the fineness of some of this crochet lace, a woman described her ‘famine hook’ as a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the point at the other end inserted in a wooden handle.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Irish crochet handmade lace trim, ivorychurchill island, lace, jane amess, lace collection -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Newcomb Secondary College Archives
Photographic Album - Geelong East Technical School Prefects, Leathersmith, circa 1960
Photographic Album by Leathersmith, Made in England (AL4M Morocco)Cover is black leather with a gold embossed trim around edges. Internal exposed leather has similar trim. Pages are paper with rounded corners and edge of paper is gold. -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Camisole, Late 19th century
This handmade women’s camisole features hand-worked lace yoke and trim and a drawstring peplum waist. It is one of seven handmade items of white cotton underwear, all made with beautiful needlework and embroidery skill. The lingerie once belonged to the donor’s great-grandmother’s family, the Paton family of ‘Trefnant’, Yangery, in southwest Victoria. The collection of women’s late-19th-century undergarments is an example of clothing that women would include in their wardrobes. The garments add to the study of the evolution of women's fashions and practicality for the early Australian settlers. The fine linen fabric and the careful needlework in these handmade garments and hand-worked lace trims reflect the maker’s dedication to making even serviceable garments beautiful to look at and wear. Women's camisole, short sleeves and drawstring peplum waist. Handmade from white cotton fabric, with hand-worked lace sleeve tips, collar and waist trim. Front closure.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, maritime village, warrnambool, great ocean road, southwest victoria, victorian era, women’s underwear, ladies’ underwear, undergarment, under-structure, 1900s undergarments, 19th-century undergarment, women’s clothing, women’s fashion, lingerie, 19th century, handmade clothing, handmade lace, hand-worked lace, camisole, paton family, trefnant, yangery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This trim is a delicate example of tatting which is a form of knotted lace. The lace is made by hand using a small shuttle which could be made of bone, tortoiseshell, steel or more recently, plastic. The shuttle is double sided with shell like sides which point towards each other at the ends to ease passing through loops of the larks head knot which is the main stitch used in tatting. The centre of the shuttle has a shaft with the thread wound onto it. Knotted laces have been made for several centuries but tatting is believed to have originated in the 18th century by the knotting of embroidery threads in preparation for couched work. This was done by ladies to relieve the monotony of long coach journeys sometimes using a shuttle for ease of manipulation. This knotted thread could be formed into circles and stitched together using a needle and thread. In the 1870s there were two major developments, first the introduction of picots which added daintiness to the work and secondly the use of a second shuttle with a separate thread to join the loops into a pattern of circles, squares, triangles and diamonds. Needle Tatting is another form of this craft where the work is done using a needle which the same width all along including the eye. This results in a different structure and slightly thicker end result than shuttle tatting as the needle must pass through the work. There is also a version called Cro-Tatting where the craft is created using a needle with a crochet hook on the end but again the hook must be the same diameter as the needle.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Delicate length of tatted lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, tatting -
Bendigo Military Museum
Print - PRINT, FRAMED, Print reproduced by the Royal Australian Survey Corps
Reproduced by kind permission of the Australian War Memorial by Royal Australian Survey Corps 1985. Brown wooden frame with gold inner trim & glass front. Mounted with white border & brown paper frame backing. Copy of coloured painting of Landing At Duc Thanh. Original by B Fletcher.Brown wooden frame with gold inner trim & glass front. Mounted with white border & brown paper frame backing. Copy of coloured painting of Landing At Duc Thanh. Original by B Fletcher.RHS bottom corner: Artist's signatureroyal australian survey corps, rasvy -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Camisole, Late 19th century
This handmade women’s camisole features hand-worked lace yoke and trim and a drawstring peplum waist. It is one of seven handmade items of white cotton underwear, all made with beautiful needlework and embroidery skill. The lingerie once belonged to the donor’s great-grandmother’s family, the Paton family of ‘Trefnant’, Yangery, in southwest Victoria. The collection of women’s late-19th-century undergarments is an example of clothing that women would include in their wardrobes. The garments add to the study of the evolution of women's fashions and practicality for the early Australian settlers. The fine linen fabric and the careful needlework in these handmade garments and hand-worked lace trims reflect the maker’s dedication to making even serviceable garments beautiful to look at and wear. Women's camisole, short sleeves and peplum waist. Handmade from white cotton fabric, with hand-worked lace sleeve tips, collar and waist trim. It has button closures down the front.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, maritime village, warrnambool, great ocean road, southwest victoria, victorian era, women’s underwear, ladies’ underwear, undergarment, under-structure, 1900s undergarments, 19th-century undergarment, women’s clothing, women’s fashion, lingerie, 19th century, handmade clothing, handmade lace, hand-worked lace, camisole, paton family, trefnant, yangery