Postcard - Royal Flying Corps Base, Montrose titled 'A busy morning - Royal Flying Corps Base, Montrose' Numbered 322 in bottom LH corner. Showing five/six planes on field in front of five hangers, some with open doors. Two bi-planes shown in air above.Davidson's Real Photographic Seriesmilitary, aviation, royal flying corps

Orbost Aero Club began in 1969 with Basil Dowie as Chair, David Nixon as Secretary/Treasurer. The group went into recess from 1977-1991 closing in 1997. The mid 1960s were boom years in flying training in Australia and the number of Aero Clubs grew rapidly. The Club played a significant role in the establishment of the small airport at Marlo and in the ongoing operation and development of the airport over the years particularly for patient transfer by aerial ambulance. The Orbost Aero Club Club played a significant role in the establishment of the small airport at Marlo and in the ongoing operation and development of the airport over the years.A buff coloured rectangular shaped cardboard box which contained badges for the Orbost Aero Club. The sides are stapled and the lid has a finger opening, written in blue pen on the lid is Orbost Aero Club Big Wings and Large$10.00 Small $2.00.Top in black print - STOKES (Australasia) Ltd METALWARE DIVISION MANUFACTURERS OF BADGES BUTTONS AND MEDALLIONS SINCE 1856 322-332 ALBERT STREET BRUNSWICK VICTORIA AUSTRALIA TEL 382101 orbost-aero-club

A Forestry Commission photo of MacKenzie Falls.Photo shows a large waterfall (MacKenzie Falls), taken from a fairly high vantage point. The river comes into the falls in two separate streams and there is a large volume of water flowing. The falls are surrounded by thick bush."Publicity & Public Relations branch. When reproducing please Acknowledge FORESTS COMMISSION, VICTORIA. Negative No. 322-2" stamped on rear (except negative number, which is hand written in pen)scenery, mackenzie falls

Location unknown.The photo shows a sandy track through bushland.'Forests Commission, Victoria' inscribed on bottom, right of border. 'Publicity & Public relations Branch, When reproducing please Acknowledge Forests Commission, Victoria, Negative No. 322-14' stamped on back.access routes, roads, scenery, grampians ranges

The location in the photo is unknown.The photo shows a road, seen on a slope, in the distance, crossing through bushland'Forests Commission, Victoria' inscribed on bottom, right of border. 'Publicity & Public relations Branch, When reproducing please Acknowledge Forests Commission, Victoria, Negative No. 322-1' stamped on back.access routes, roads, scenery, grampians ranges

The photo is taken from Reed's Lookout.The photo shows the view across a valley from a (Reed's Lookout). The foreground is two large rock platforms. A reservoir (Moora Moora) and ranges can be seen in the background. Roads can be seen in the valley in the foreground.'Forests Commission, Victoria' inscribed on bottom, right of border. 'Publicity & Public relations Branch, When reproducing please Acknowledge Forests Commission, Victoria, Negative No. 322-23' stamped on back.scenery, lookouts

This photo is a view from the road at Reed's Lookout.The photo shows the view from beside a road (the road at Reed's Lookout), across bushland to a large reservoir (Lake Wartook). There is a range of peaks in the background. The road forms the foreground.'Forests Commission, Victoria' inscribed on bottom, right of border. 'Publicity & Public relations Branch, When reproducing please Acknowledge Forests Commission, Victoria, Negative No. 322-34' stamped on back.scenery, lookouts

Conditions of sale by private contract dated 23rd April, 1936 between S.R. Wilkinson (seller) and Mrs E. Richards (buyer) for land situate no. 80 Booth Street Golden Square being the land described in right to occupy residence area No. 322, together with 4-roomed weatherboard dwelling and all sundry. Price 220 pounds.organization, business, h.a. & s.r wilkinson real estate

A waddy, nulla nulla or hunting stick is an Australian Aboriginal war club.It was used in hunting, fighting and as a ceremonial tool.The necessary tools and equipment for hunting, fishing and warfare were one of the very few items that Aboriginals carried with them from place to place. Most were used for a multiplicity of purposes. Because many were made from raw natural materials, such as wood, generally only partial remains are found today. This item is an example of a wooden weapon used by the early Indigenous people of eastern australia.A hand-made wooden pointed stick, a nulla nulla. One end is thicker that the other. Designs have been burnt into the wood.nulla-nulla waddy aboriginal weapon

Archie Findlay was Kevin Findlay's father. Donated by Bernita Grech.Hand coloured part of a Postcard showing Archibald Findlay standing outside the Rest House at The Nobbies.On front of photo: "Archie Finley Rest House at Nobbies 1915 Cowes Phillip Island"the nobbies rest house phillip island, archibald findlay, archie finley, bernita grech

Toll keeper and his two childrentoll keeper, vehicle, toll, children

An invitation for Mrs Jessie May Scholes (nee Partington) to attend one of the state receptions held for Queen Elizabeth II during her 1954 visit to Australia.A tribute to a Greensborough identity and her connection with the Philharmonic Choir.Invitation printed in black on buff card. “To have the honour of meeting Her Majesty the Queen and His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, the Government of Victoria invites Mrs J.M.Scholes to attend a state reception at the Exhibition Buildings on Monday, 8th March 1954, at 8.15 o’clock p.m. jessie may partington, jessie angus, jessie scholes, partington family, royal family, royal visit 1954

Maggie's Peak where the Chautauqua concerts were overlooked.The photo shows a rock ridge with a small peak at it's centre. There is a tiny patch of blue showing through the cloudy sky on the top, just right of centre.scenery, grampians ranges

Catalogue card reads, 'Council ceremonies. Unveiling stone at Poppet Head 1985 and then opening of Poppet Head 1987.'

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Emergency Ration Packequipment, malaya c 1950, army

Black and white photo: Methodist Church, Golden Square. Brick building with square tower, spire buttresses. 2 entry doors. 1 at left under circular window, 1 at right in base of tower. 3 pointed arch windows between doors, large pointed arch window above. Contrast colour bricks around doores, windows, gables and corner. On back C 16 in grey lead.Peter Hyett 1995buildings, church, methodist church

Formal portrait photograph of Edward C Crockford, Town Clerk wearing ceremonial robes and holding a bicorn hat. costume, local government - town of port melbourne, edward c crockford, town clerks

Most likely donated by the late Dr Frank ForsterPerforator, Simpson's, with external screw joint and hinge. Manufacturer unknown.Stamped on inner arms "13' and, the other arm, "13+" .perforator, destructive instrument, obstetric delivery

Personal diary of John William ELLIS Born: Rupanyup. Home Town: Nyarrin Occupation: Farmer Private 5334 Enlisted 1915 aged 37 24th Battalion Fought on the Western Front. Wounded on 9/10/1917 at Ypres - gunshot wound to right leg and returned to Australia 16/4/1918. Diary entry ......"Oct 9 was in the charge this morning and got wounded ankle and arm".....Diary contains principal events written in pencil between leaving Australia on the 10th April 1916 and arriving back in Melbourne on the 16th April, 1918.Thin brown leather book with attached holder for pencil.private john william ellis, 24th battalion, ww1, diary

This object relates to William David WILLIAMS. He was born on 23/05/1907 in Ballarat, VIC. William David served in the Army (VX139193 V103196) enlisting on, 10/05/1943 in Ballarat, VIC before being discharged from duties with the 2/9 FLD COY as a Army Non-Commissioned Sapper (SPR) on 30/01/1946. William David WILLIAMS was not a prisoner of war. His next of kin is W WILLIAMS.Ribbon Bar - Pacific Star & 1939-45 Star; Dog Tag - Sern. V103196; RSL Badge - Logo with three (3) figures '79 year clip; Returned from Active Service Badge.second world war (ww2), 1939 - 1945, collectables, ballarat rsl, ballarat

Mounted timber honour board. Features gold inscriptions and names of soldiers who died in WWI and WW2. Light coloured wood board with darker wood edging.

Black & white photograph - poorly exposed of either an MMTB 'K' or 'Q' class tram inside a depot. On rear in top LH corner is number '290/' and stamped in blue ink is 'Taylors super snaps, Ballarat' (within a box), on Velox photographic paper. Reimaged 17/7/2017 front only.trams, tramways, mmtb, k or q class tram.

mapww1, world war 1, map, trenches

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