This fine white unglazed porcelain figurine is one of six donated together. The bisque material was easy to carve and allowed fine detail. Figurine ornaments were popular for table decorations between the mid-18th to early 19th centuries. This ornament was likely made in Germany, and German manufacturers began to use bisque material to make realistic faces for dolls in the 1850s.The set of six bisque figurines is representative of popular table decorations during the 19th and early 20th centuries.Fine unglazed white porcelain ornament, hollow inside. It is carved to represent a peasant girl and goat with a vase shaped like a tree stump in the background. The ornament has remnants of gold, red, brown and green paint. There is an inscription on the base."3943:warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, ornament, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, bisque, china ornament, white china ornament, german, germany, porcelain, unglazed porcelain, 19th century, 18th century, european ornament, pottery, unglazed pottery, domestic ornament, decoration, table decoration, girl and goat, vase

Bisque china bobble head ornament, possibly tooth pick holder, in shape of small boy with pot between his legs.ornaments, ceramic, figurine

Small china doll with Bisque finish. Moveable arms, painted face and hair with blue ribbon. Home made satin dress.toys, dolls, nursery

Made by Anne Seeney née Berens who lives in Fuller Street, Mitcham. Made in her own pottery. Co owner of Laburnam Gallery in the 1970s and 1980s. Clay was purchased from Walker Pottery Ceramic Supplier - Refer to oral history NP3398.Bisque Pottery Bowl with English style village on the rim. When bowl is filled with water, it looks like a moat around the village.B encircled by a single linedomestic items, ornaments / decorative

Small German Bisque vase, white and gold fluted container with diamond decoration, flowers at base and figure of a girl on side wearing a gold hat and shoes.3224 Germanyornaments, ceramic, vase, di518

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery girl seated nursing doll. White.pottery

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery bowl with lid and handles with flowers under lid. White.pottery, bowls

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Two small pottery vases with floral relief design. White.pottery, vases

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery bowl with lid - grape ornamentation. White.pottery, bowls

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery vase with rose buds. White.clay, vases

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery jug with matt glaze. White.pottery

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery bowl with handles and flowers at base. White.pottery, bowls

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pottery deer resting and sitting down. White.pottery, deer

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Pair of two pottery rabbits joined - eating a leaf. White.pottery, rabbits

Part of collection of hand and wheel pottery by Mrs. Annette Lord - 1953. Bisque fired.Two small pottery vases - glazed. One green with cream flowers. One white with coloured flowers.pottery, vases

Pair of painted bisque figurines; (.1) female figure and (.2) male figure, both dressed in green and each holding a racquet and ball. Number 25 written on both bases. Materials: Ceramic, Pigmenttennis

Marseille My Dream Baby doll, 8-22" tall, bisque head, lightly painted hair, painted or sleep eyes, doll mold 351 has an open mouth with two upper teeth, cloth body with bisque or composition hands or composition jointed body, came as either a white doll or black doll. Doll face shown is a socket bisque head with sleep eyes on a composition jointed body. Armand Marseille of Sonneberg and Koppelsdorf, Thüringia, Germany was one of the worlds largest and best known bisque doll head manufacturers. The founder was born in 1856 in St. Petersburg, Russia the son of an architect and immigrated to Germany with his family after 1860. In 1884 he bought the toy factory of Mathias Lambert in Sonneberg and in 1885 acquired the porcelain factory of Liebermann & Wegescher in Koppelsdorf . . and his empire in the doll world began. Made 1924 - 1930 and later Bisque heads made by AM represented a new born infant. They came in white, brown and black versions. Mold 351 with open mouth and two lower teeth. The bodies were either cloth or composition AM doll. China haed, sleep eyes, painted lashes, two bottom teeth. Doll’s head has been repaired (badly) Composition body in good condition Embroidered lawn dress with pink embroidery. Appears to be original clothes Doll purchased from Harrods in London in 1926

Bisque Doll dressed in cream silk smocked dress with crocheted lace border on collar.and hem. White lawn petticoat pin tucked on hem. Wooden legs on cords attached to body. Brown hair with pink ribbon.toys, dolls

Doll maker Kammer and Reinhard bisque doll heads and bodies were designed by them, but most heads were manufactured by Simon & Halbig which is why heads bear both marks.Kammer and Reinhardt porcelain and cloth baby doll mould number 116A circa 1912. She has a porcelain head, forearms and lower legs and feet. The rest of her body is a stuffed material calico. Her legs are jointed at the knees. She is dressed in a long sleeved, extended christening like robe of cream broderie anglaise. The robe has decorative pintucking and lace on the bodice, sleeves, cuffs and skirt with a contrasting broderie anglaise hem. Part of a lace insert has become unstitched at the front. Underneath is a full petticoat of white cotton with pintucking and lace with a white broderie anglaise hem. Another full length petticoat of cream linen trimmed with lace is also underneath. She has a cream knitted singlet and knickers with cream knitted bootees. She has short blonde matted hair and wears a lace trimmed broderie anglaise bonnet with satin ribbons to match her robe.Initials K and R either side of a Star of David and the words Simon and Halbig below with the mould no 116/Atoys, dolls, porcelain

Nippon dolls were made by Noritake in Japan. This example is referred to as a China glazed doll. They were made about 1915. The shoulder plate bisque dolls were usually under 10inches tall.Stuffed doll with ceramic face, decolletage, hands and feet. Dress machine sewn from cream and brown printed material. Arms and legs made from browncolored linen type material. Eyes (blue), eyebrows (brown), hair (black) rouge (pink) and lips (red) painted on. Dress tied at back with pink embroidery cottontoys, dolls, sewing

Mary-Lou began exhibiting in the mid 1980s and over the years has been involved in producing unique pieces as well as developing a large range of domestic ware. In 1984, six months after graduating from a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Phillip Institute of Technology, Mary-Lou was invited to present a solo exhibition at Devise Gallery in South Melbourne. This objective, she says, compelled her to find a studio and was an incentive to focus on developing her ceramic practice independently.Mary-Lou Pittard holds close ties to the Shire of Nillumbik - living and working within Eltham. Her Eltham North Mudbrick Studio employed 5 assistants until recently when Mary-Lou and partner Chris Pittard have scaled down operations. They now produce everything themselves and find that this enables them to focus on producing unique, sculptural ceramic works. Mary-Lou is currently exploring the fine qualities of porcelain and combining these with her ongoing passion for decorative colour and form. 'Decorative Bowl' is a wheel-thrown/moulded bowl, oblong in shape and has been manipulated by hand. Narrow sections have been incised from the main body, perhaps a practical design feature for air circulation, and the rim has been altered to form a jagged edge. Bold colourful shapes decorate the interior of the bowl. They have been applied directly to the bisque surface and subsequently covered with a transparent glaze which protects them and enhances their permanency.mary-lou pittard, ceramic, chris pittard, eltham, nillumbik

Porcelain bisque figurine of a doctor holding a baby. The doctor is male, with brown hair and a moustache. He is wearing a white surgical gown and cap, with brown trouser cuffs and black shoes visible below the gown. The doctor is holding a baby by its ankles in his left hand, and is holding his right hand with the palm facing towards the baby. The baby is facing the doctor, head pointing towards the ground. The figure is supported by a plinth behind the right leg, and is standing on a flat, sandy coloured base.obstetrics

Heubach German porcelain doll. Head badly cracked and taped together. The face is OK. Doll’s eyes are loose. Eyes need to be reset. All parts are separate. Composition body in need of repair. Open mouth. One tooth. Pierced nostrils. Clothed in red cotton drawers with long legs. Not original. Knitted singlet – badly moth eaten. White lawn dress with lace. Tied together with mourning ribbon. Crocheted bonnet lined with silk. Ernst Heubach was a company in Köppelsdorf, Thuringia, Germany, that manufactured porcelain-headed bisque dolls from 1885 onwardsHeubach

Bisque porcelain figurine of a male doctor holding a medical instrument. The doctor has grey hair and is in surgical attire, with white gown, gloves, surgical hat and mask. The cuffs of his brown trousers, and his black shoes, are visible below the gown. The doctor is wearing glasses on the end of his nose, and holds a surgical tool in his right hand. The figurine is standing on a base with a painted green stripe across the centre, and is supported by a pillar at the back which is decorated with decorative orange and black squiggly lines. Orange and black squiggly lines also feature on the front of the base. Handwritten lettering on a sticker on underside of base reads 'FF'.

This rubber ball was part of the cargo from the Fiji and amongst the articles salvaged from the wreck. A press report notes that the balls collected from the Fiji’s cargo were originally red and white. The three-masted iron barque Fiji had been built in Belfast, Ireland, in 1875 by Harland and Wolfe for a Liverpool based shipping company. The ship departed Hamburg on 22nd May 1891 bound for Melbourne, under the command of Captain William Vickers with a crew of 25. The ship’s manifest shows that she was loaded with a cargo of 260 cases of dynamite, pig iron, steel goods, spirits (whisky, schnapps, gin, brandy), sailcloth, tobacco, coiled fencing wire, concrete, 400 German pianos (Sweet Hapsburg), concertinas and other musical instruments, artists supplies including brushes, porcelain, furniture, china, and general cargo including candles. There were also toys in anticipation for Christmas, including wooden rocking horses, miniature ships, dolls with china limbs and rubber balls. On September 5th, one hundred days out from Hamburg in squally and boisterous south west winds the Cape Otway light was sighted on a bearing differing from Captain Vickers’ calculation of his position. At about 2:30am, Sunday 6th September 1891 land was reported 4-5 miles off the port bow. The captain tried to put the ship on the other tack, but she would not respond. He then tried to turn her the other way but just as the manoeuvre was being completed the Fiji struck rock only 300 yards (274 metres) from shore. The place is known as Wreck Bay, Moonlight Head. Blue lights were burned and rockets fired whilst an effort was made to lower boats but all capsized or swamped and smashed to pieces. Two of the younger crewmen volunteered to swim for the shore, taking a line. One, a Russian named Daniel Carkland, drowned after he was swept away when the line broke. The other, 17 year old able seaman Julius Gebauhr, a German, reached shore safely on his second attempt but without the line, which he had cut lose with his sheath-knife when it become tangled in kelp. He rested on the beach a while then climbed the steep cliffs in search of help. At about 10am on the Sunday morning a party of land selectors - including F. J. Stansmore, Leslie Dickson (or Dixon) and Mott - found Gebauhr. They were near Ryans Den, on their travels on horseback from Princetown towards Moonlight Head, and about 5km from the wreck. Gebauhr was lying in the scrub in a poor state, bleeding and dressed only in singlet, socks and a belt with his sheath-knife, ready for all emergencies. At first they were concerned about his wild and shaggy looking state and what seemed to be gibberish speech, taking him to be an escaped lunatic. They were reassured after he threw his knife away and realised that he was speaking half-English, half-German. They gave him food and brandy and some clothing and were then able to gain information about the wreck. Some of the men took him to Rivernook, a nearby guest house owned by John Evans, where he was cared for. Stansmore and Dickson rode off to try and summon help. Others went down to the site of the wreck. Messages for rescuing the rest of the crew were sent both to Port Campbell for the rocket rescue crew and to Warrnambool for the lifeboat. The S.S. Casino sailed from Portland towards the scene. After travelling the 25 miles to the scene, half of the Port Campbell rocket crew and equipment arrived and set up the rocket tripod on the beach below the cliffs. By this time the crew of the Fiji had been clinging to the jib-boom for almost 15 hours, calling frantically for help. Mr Tregear from the Rocket Crew fired the line. The light line broke and the rocket was carried away. A second line was successfully fired across the ship and made fast. The anxious sailors then attempted to come ashore along the line but, with as many as five at a time, the line sagged considerably and some were washed off. Others, nearly exhausted, had to then make their way through masses of seaweed and were often smothered by waves. Only 14 of the 24 who had remained on the ship made it to shore. Many onlookers on the beach took it in turns to go into the surf and drag half-drowned seamen to safety. These rescuers included Bill (William James) Robe, Edwin Vinge, Hugh Cameron, Fenelon Mott, Arthur Wilkinson and Peter Carmody. (Peter Carmody was also involved in the rescue of men from the Newfield.) Arthur Wilkinson, a 29 year old land selector, swam out to the aid of one of the ship’s crewmen, a carpenter named John Plunken. Plunken was attempting to swim from the Fiji to the shore. Two or three times both men almost reached the shore but were washed back to the wreck. A line was thrown to them and they were both hauled aboard. It was thought that Wilkinson struck his head on the anchor before s they were brought up. He remained unconscious. The carpenter survived this ordeal but Wilkinson later died and his body was washed up the next day. It was 26 year old Bill Robe who hauled out the last man, the captain, who had become tangled in the kelp. The wreck of the Fiji was smashed apart within 20 minutes of the captain being brought ashore, and it settled in about 6m of water. Of the 26 men on the Fiji, 11 in total lost their lives. The remains of 7 bodies were washed onto the beach and their coffins were made from timbers from the wrecked Fiji. They were buried on the cliff top above the wreck. The survivors were warmed by fires on the beach then taken to Rivernook and cared for over the next few days. Funds were raised by local communities soon after the wreck in aid of the sufferers of the Fiji disaster. Captain Vickers was severely reprimanded for his mishandling of the ship. His Masters Certificate was suspended for 12 months. At the time there was also a great deal of public criticism at the slow and disorganised rescue attempt to save those on board. The important canvas ‘breech buoy’ or ‘bucket chair’ and the heavy line from the Rocket Rescue was in the half of the rocket outfit that didn’t make it in time for the rescue: they had been delayed at the Gellibrand River ferry. Communications to Warrnambool were down so the call for help didn’t get through on time and the two or three boats that had been notified of the wreck failed to reach it in time. Much looting occurred of the cargo that washed up on the shore, with nearly every visitor leaving the beach with bulky pockets. One looter was caught with a small load of red and white rubber balls, which were duly confiscated and he was ‘detained’ for 14 days. Essence of peppermint mysteriously turned up in many settlers homes. Sailcloth was salvaged and used for horse rugs and tent flies. Soon after the wreck “Fiji tobacco” was being advertised around Victoria. A Customs officer, trying to prevent some of the looting, was assaulted by looters and thrown over a steep cliff. He managed to cling to a bush lower down until rescued. In 1894 some coiled fencing wire was salvaged from the wreck. Hundreds of coils are still strewn over the site of the wreck, encrusted and solidified. The hull is broken but the vessel’s iron ribs can be seen along with some of the cargo of concrete and pig iron. Captain Vickers presented Bill Robe with his silver-cased pocket watch, the only possession that he still had, as a token for having saved his life and the lives of some of the crew. (The pocket watch came with 2 winding keys, one to wind it and one to change the hands.) Years later Bill passed the watch to his brother-in-law Gib (Gilbert) Hulands as payment of a debt and it has been passed down the family to Gilbert Hulands’ grandson, John Hulands. Seaman Julius Gebauhr later gave his knife, in its hand crafted leather sheath, to F. J. Stansmore for caring for him when he came ashore. The knife handle had a personal inscription on it. A marble headstone on the 200m high cliffs overlooking Wreck Beach, west of Moonlight Head, paying tribute to the men who lost their lives when Fiji ran aground. The scene of the wreck is marked by the anchor from the Fiji, erected by Warrnambool skin divers in 1967. Amongst the artefacts salvaged from the Fiji are bisque (or china) toys, (including miniature animals, limbs from small bisque dolls), rubber balls, a slate pencil, a glass bottle, sample of rope from the distress rocket and a candlestick holder. These items are now part of the Fiji collection at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum, along with Captain Vickers’ pocket watch and Julius Gebauhr’s sheath knife. This toy rubber ball is classified as Fiji 3 on the SWR Flagstaff Hill’s Fiji collection is of historical significance at a State level because of its association with the wreck Fiji, which is on the Victorian Heritage Register VHR S259. The Fiji is archaeologically significant as the wreck of a typical 19th century international sailing ship with cargo. It is educationally and recreationally significant as one of Victoria's most spectacular historic shipwreck dive sites with structural features and remains of the cargo evident. It also represents aspects of Victoria’s shipping history and its potential to interpret sub-theme 1.5 of Victoria’s Framework of Historical Themes (living with natural processes). The Fiji collection meets the following criteria for assessment: Criterion A: Importance to the course, or pattern, of Victoria’s cultural history. Criterion B: Possession of uncommon, rare or endangered aspects of Victoria’s cultural history Criterion C: Potential to yield information that will contribute to an understanding of Victoria’s cultural history. Rubber ball salvaged from the wreck of the Fiji. The rubber is perishing and the surface is pitted and bumpy. The material is tan in colour with a slightly pitted surface. 1891, china, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwrecked artefact, flagstaff hill maritime village, shipwreck coast, warrnambool, porcelain, moonlight head, wreck bay, cargo, bisque, toys, miniature animals, rubber ball

Popular from early twentieth century. Based on comic strip illustration by Rose O'Neill that appeared in Ladies Home Journal in 1909. First produced in Ohrdruf, Germany. Made out of bisque, then celluloid , hard plastic versions from 1949. Name derived from "cupid" the Roman god of beauty. The time capsule at 1939 New York World' Fair contained a Kewpie doll. The term "Kewpie doll" is sometimes mistakenly applied to the troll doll. This particular style of doll was awarded as a carnival prize and often collected. Many other articles were made using their images[ Wikipedia, 2012]. Added to the collection as part of a Toys and Games exhibition. Many visitors commented on having owned one when they were growing upA flesh coloured plastic jointed kewpie doll. It has rigid painted eyes, webbed fingers, head,arms and legs jointed to body so can move them, "cowlick" hair on top of head, above ears and nape of neck, back spine and bottom clearly moulded, smiling painted lips

When celluloid was invented and first came to prominence in the 1870s, dolls were nearly all breakable and fragile--bisque and china dolls were easily shattered and papier mache and wax easily ruined. So doll companies started experimenting with celluloid to mould dolls. By the early 1900s, celluloid dolls were plentiful, since celluloid was easily moulded and generally inexpensive. Celluloid is one of the first synthetic plastics. It is a plastic created from wood products that includes cellulose nitrate and camphor. However Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed to moisture, and can be prone to cracking and yellowing with certain formulations. Celluloid dolls were produced as late as the 1950s, but the vast majority were produced from 1900 through the 1940s. This doll is dressed in baby clothes.A celluloid doll dressed in baby clothes.celluloid, dolls, cotton, moorabbin, ormond, cheltenham, clothing

When celluloid was invented and first came to prominence in the 1870s, dolls were nearly all breakable and fragile--bisque and china dolls were easily shattered and papier mache and wax easily ruined. So doll companies started experimenting with celluloid to mould dolls. By the early 1900s, celluloid dolls were plentiful, since celluloid was easily moulded and generally inexpensive. Celluloid is one of the first synthetic plastics. It is a plastic created from wood products that includes cellulose nitrate and camphor. However Celluloid is flammable and deteriorates easily if exposed to moisture, and can be prone to cracking and yellowing with certain formulations. Celluloid dolls were produced as late as the 1950s, but the vast majority were produced from 1900 through the 1940s. The knitted outfit was made by an unrecorded home knitter probably as a present for a child. A very small celluloid doll dressed as a boy in fine hand -knitted hat, vest, jacket and pants.celluloid, dolls, knitting, wool, craftwork, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, toys

Ansonia Clock Company, Bobbing Doll Clock, Jumper No1, silver plated case and stand with ornate decoration, drum clock with time only Ansonia movement, hand wound from back, white paper dial with black Roman numerals, black spade hands and a subsidiary seconds dial and Ansonia brand with Patented Dec 14th 1886 & printed across bottom Ansonia Clock Co Sole Manufacturers New York USA. Spring driven brass movement is driven by a bouncing bisque china figure of a Cherub on a swing suspended from a spring, inside the back cover is a paper label which reads " I started to wind this clock on the 17th October 1922 Doug Pain" the clock was used in the shop window of Pains watchmaker corner of Pall & Victoria Lane Bendigo, Bruce Pain (Donor) was apprenticed to his Father Doug.Ansonia Clock Co New York USAhorology, clocks, ansonia

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic