The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

One page printed ''Introduction to Collection'' - Bendigo Art Gallery (1972). Covers Buildings and Site; Paintings (''over 600''); Prints (''relatively small collection''); Sculpture; Porcelain; The Dresden Vase (Baron Von Mueller); Contemporary Ceramics. This appears to be a hand-out to visitors to the Gallery as it states that ''It is hoped that you enjoyed your visit''government, local, bendigo art gallery

Event, Bendigo Y.M.C.A., Y's Workbox, Sunday, October 26th,1986, at the Y.M.C.A. Stadium, Mundy Street, Bendigo, 10am - 5pm. Admission: Adults $2.50, Children 50c, Devonshire Teas $1.20. Crafts include; Fantasy Figures, Woodcarving, Bread Dough Jewellery, Various Embroidery Techniques, Sand Pictures, Irish Crochet, Slipcast Ceramics, Herbal Products, Lead Lighting, Tatting, Ribbon Flowers, Porcelain Dolls, Applique, Polished Natural Timbers, Dried Floral Art, Knitted Lace, Natural Material Baskets, Marzipan Fruits, Bobbin Lace, Christmas Novelties, Papermaking, Embroidery Thru the Ages, Childen's Display & Parade, Display of Knitted & Crochet Rugs. C.MarroneC.Marrone.event, exhibition, bendigo y.m.c.a.

Entry into the 2009 Nillumbik Prize. Angela holds a Masters of Fine Art and has worked with clay for over 20 years. Her work is held in collections around Australia.Angela Nagel's creative practice is informed by an interest in the human condition, universal symbols, mythology and Jung's theory on the 'collective unconscious'. Her hybrid part human/animal creatures reference introduced species and indigenous Australian animals as a way for her to explore a personal mythology, and narrative, of home and environment. Recent work is developing around the relationship of ceramics to other materials such as glass, printmaking and found objects. Angela holds a Masters of Fine Art and has worked with clay for over 20 years. Her work is held in collections around Australia.Human and animal like figure in the stance reminiscent of classical sculpture. Hand built ceramics with engobes, oxides, glaze and gold leaf Medium: Porcelain, oxide, underglazeangela nagel, nillumbik shire council collection, victoria, nillumbik prize, ceramic

John GLEESON Living at Campbell's Creek for over 30 years, John Gleeson makes a range of functional stoneware pottery. He fell in loved with pottery during a hobby class in Geelong in 1972. He worked for a year at Canny Ridge Pottery in Harcourt. John Gleeson uses white stoneware and porcelain clay from The Bendigo Pottery, and buff clay from Bennetts Pottery in Adelaide. He mixed all his own glazes from commercially sourced raw materials, sometimes supplemented with ash from his fire and local red clay to get special effects.Large celadon platter with incised fish design. john gleason, studio pottery, ceramics, australian studio pottery

Arthur WARREN (1958- ) Born Yallourn, Victoria Arthur Warren attended Gippsland Institute of Advanced Education from 1977 to 1979. He later returned as a visiting lecturer. After graduating Arthur Warren trained with Victor Greenaway for six and a half years, before establishing Amesfield Pottery in Upper Beaconsfield in 1986. Lidded poecelain Potwarren arthur, ceramics, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, gippsland campus, alumni, victor greenaway, amesfield pottery

Sandra JOHNSTONE (1936-Jan 1991) Born Southern California, USA Worked California, USA Sandra Johnstone was awarded a MA in Ceramics and an MFA in Plastic Arts at San Jose State University, where she later also lectured. Specialiing in functional and sculptural forms, with emphasis on wheel-thrown shapes and salt-glazed stoneware and porcelain, her work is best known for salt glazing, using surface texture and colour to enhance the character of the clay. Sandra Johnstone was a visiting artist to the Gippsland Centre for Art and Design (GCAD). Salt glazed platter. This work is part of the Jan Feder Memorial Ceramics Collection. Jan Feder was an alumna of the Gippsland Campus who studied ceramics on the campus. She passed away in the mid 1980s. Her student peers raised funds to buy ceramic works in her memory. They bought works from visiting lecturers who became leading ceramic artists around the world, as well as from many of the staff who taught there."Johnstone" on basesandra johnstone, ceramics, artist, artwork, gippsland campus, jan feder memorial ceramics collection

Gwyn HANSSEN PIGGOT (1935-2013) Born Ballarat Gwyn Hanssen Piggot completed a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Melbourne University in 1954. She spent three years apprenticed to Ivan McMeekin at Sturt Pottery, Mittagong, New South Wales. Between 1958 and 1965 Gwyn Hanssen-Pigott worked at various potteries in the United Kingdom, including Winchcombe Pottery in Gloucestershire, Leach Pottery at St Ives, and Wenford Bridge Pottery and Aldermaston Pottery in Berkshire. In 1960 she established her own studio in London. The essence of her work is purity, simplicity and form. She worked with porcelain for strength and for its translucent nature, and fired with wood to add a dine ash bloom to glazes. In 1992 Gwyn Hanssen Piggot was artist in residence at the Ballarat School of Mines.A small woodfired bowl by internationally renown ceramicist Gwyn Hanssen Piggot. gwyn hanssen-pigott, ceramics, gippsland campus, bowl, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, woodfire 86

Ben RICHARDSON (1951- ) Born Hobart, Tasmania In 1972 Ben Richadson was awarded a B.Commerce degree in 1972 at the University of Tasmania. From 1978-81 he studied ceramics at the School of Art in Hobart and completed a Master of Art, Design and Environment degree in 2004. Starting out with raku, he was converted to working with local materials and firing with wood by Col Levy, Les Blakebrough and Gwyn Hanssen Pigott, who conducted a woodfiring workshop he attended in 1980. In 1982, he set up the Ridgeline Pottery at Sandford, where he still lives and works, teaching two days a week at TAFE. He was a part-time lecturer in ceramics at the School of Art from 1985-95, and a researcher in the development of Southern Ice porcelain from 1995-97. In 2004, he completed a Master of Art, Design and Environment degree and, in the same year, participated in an international woodfiring workshop and conference in the United States. His work is marked with an impressed 'BR'.Woodfired stoneware jar purchased from Woodfire 86.ben richardson, ceramics, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, gippsland campus, ridgeline pottery, woodfire 86

Victor GREENAWAY (1947 - ) Born Sale, Victoria Victor Greenaway studied Ceramics at RMIT. He established his first workshop in Hawthorn in 1968, before moving to Ian Sprague's Mungeriba Pottery, Upper Beaconsfield in 1969. He studied under Tatsuzo Shimoaka in Mashiko, Japan under a Churchill Fellowship awarded in 1974. Upon his return he established Broomhill Pottery in Upper Beaconsfield in 1975, and in 1976 started employing trainees. He was a visiting lecturer at the Gippsland Centre for Art and Design (GCAD) c1980. Hand-decorated wheel thrown porcelaneous stoneware glazed with semi-matt, silky white and dry black glaze and magnesium carbonate. The brushwork and banding is cobalt and iron with bronzelustre on-glaze bands. This work is part of the Jan Feder Memorial Ceramics Collection. Jan Feder was an alumna of the Gippsland Campus who studied ceramics on the campus. She passed away in the mid 1980s. Her student peers raised funds to buy ceramic works in her memory. They bought works from visiting lecturers who became leading ceramic artists around the world, as well as from many of the staff who taught there.Artist's stamp on base.gippsland campus, victor greenaway, ceramics, artists, artwork, jan feder memorial ceramics collectrion

Paul GREENWAY (1955 - ) Born Wagga Wagga, New South Wales Paul Greenway was a visiting lecturer at Gippsland Centre of Art and Design (GCAD) c 1977 This work is part of the Jan Feder Memorial Ceramics Collection. Jan Feder was an alumna of the Gippsland Campus who studied ceramics on the campus. She passed away in the mid 1980s. Her student peers raised funds to buy ceramic works in her memory. They bought works from visiting lecturers who became leading ceramic artists around the world, as well as from many of the staff who taught there.Handbuilt porcelain with multi-fired low tempreture lustres and enamels. Gift of the artist. jan feder memorial ceramics collection, ceramics, gippsland campus, turtle, paul greenway

Gwyn HANSSEN PIGGOT (1935-11.07.2013) Born Ballarat Gwyn Hanssen Piggot completed a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Melbourne University in 1954. She spent three years apprenticed to Ivan McMeekin at Sturt Pottery, Mittagong, New South Wales. Between 1958 and 1965 Gwyn Hanssen Piggot worked at various potteries in the United Kingdom, including Winchcombe Pottery in Gloucestershire, Leach Pottery at St Ives, and Wenford Bridge Pottery and Aldermaston Pottery in Berkshire. In 1960 she established her own studio in London. The essence of her work is purity, simplicity and form. She worked with porcelain for strength and for its translucent nature, and fired with wood to add a dine ash bloom to glazes. In 1992 Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott visited the Ballarat School of Mines Ceramics students, under the direction if lecturers Neville French and Prue Venables In 1994 she was artist in residence at the Ballarat School of Mines for six months. Gwyn Hanson Piggott received the Order of Australia Medal in 2002. Born Gwynion Lawrie John at Ballarat on 01 January 1935, Gwyn Hanssen Pigott died in London on 11 July 2018 London where she was for a solo exhibition of her new work. This item was purchased by the Ballarat University College Acquisition Committee. It is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007. A bowl by internationally renowned ceramicist Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott. Photograph: HStudioart, artwork, ceramics, bowl, ballarat, gwynn hanssen piggot

Peter PILVEN (1956- ) Born Ballarat Peter Pilven is acknowledged by his peers for his high level of tacit skills, including throwing, and for his sound technical knowledge of materials.Training with John Gilbert's Edinburgh Pottery from 1972-1975, Pilven trained with Joan Campbell in Fremantle in 1976. In 1977 Peter Pilven obtained a Diploma of Fine Art (Ceramics) from Ballarat College of Advanced Education (now Federation University). The following year he worked with Ian Dowling at Geraldton, WA, and with the Western Australian Aboriginal Education Unit in 1979. He next trained with Alan Cagier-Smith in England between 1980 and 1981. Peter Pilven established his own studio in 1982. This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 1000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Wheel thrown high-fired oxidised porcelain, multi layered painting with stains and oxides.art, artwork, pilven, peter pilven, ceramics, high fire

Victor GREENAWAY (1947 - ) Born Sale, Victoria Victor Greenaway studied Ceramics at RMIT. He established his first workshop in Hawthorn in 1968, before moving to Ian Sprague's Mungeriba Pottery, Upper Beaconsfield in 1969. He studied under Tatsuzo Shimoaka in Mashiko, Japan under a Churchill Fellowship awarded in 1974. Upon his return he established Broomhill Pottery in Upper Beaconsfield in 1975, and in 1976 started employing trainees. This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 1000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Hand thrown porcelain moon jar which was commissioned for the Ballarat College of Advanced Education Art Acquisitions Committee. art, artwork, victor greenaway, ceramics

My work is informed by a philosophical and spiritual engagement with Buddhist ideas, particularly in response to environmental concerns. In this work I wanted to challenge myself and explore the limits of clay material. Clay allowed me to express myself and free my mind. When I revisited Australia in 2010 form my residency, the natural environment here still was the best to me. Li-Feng LO (1967- ) Born Taiwan Ceramic artist Dr Li-Feng Lo completed a PhD at Monash University in 2008. She was a resident artist in the Federation University Arts Academy ceramics studio in 2010. Li-Feng worked with Southern Ice porcelain to create sculptural forms in response to environmental concerns. Her work is informed by a philosophical and spiritual engagement with Buddhist ideas. These works were exhibited in the exhibition 'AIRed' at the Post Office Gallery in 2011. This was a group exhibition showcasing the work of six artists who undertook residencies at the Arts Academy over a couple of years. This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 1000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Handbuilt (pinched), coloured porcelain form. Artist's Statement: In the beginning I try to use clay to achieve a dream-like quality by providing a feeling of flexibility like paper and fragility like glass. I was my artwork to the one with nature. Gift of the artist, 2010art, artwork, li-feng lo, ceramics, artist in residence, available, available ceramics, chinese

This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 1000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Paper porcelain with slips and takeshi glaze."BM' on baseart, artwork, ceramics

Ino SHUKUHO (13.02.1943- ) Born Kyoto, Japan The work of Ino Shukuho are completely handmade with the vast majority of his pots rectangle, squares or oval in shap. His pottery techniques limit production to a maximum of 3-4 pots daily. He is considered a Jaoanese 'national treasure' and he once handcrafter pottery for the Japanese emperor. In 1982 Shikuho Ino was a distinguished guest of the Gippsland Centre of Art and Design (GCAD). Wheel thrown porcelain with celadon glaze.Artist's stamp on base. jan feder memorial collection, ceramics, artist, artwork, gippsland campus, ino shukuho, jan feder memorial ceramics collection

Ino SHUKUHO In 1982 Ino Shukuho was the distinguished guest of the Gippsland Centre of Art and Design. (later Federation University)Presented by the artistPorcelain Bowl with fine brushwork application.jan feder memorial collection, jan feder, ceramics, gippsland campus, artist, artwork, ino shikuho

not recordedSmall vase- orange lustre on white porcelainlocal history, ornaments, ceramics

Kurt WEBB United States of America Lives Chicago Webb draws his driving force in life and artistic vision from consequential discoveries he makes, while deliberately preferring less ordinary paths to his destinations. Inspirational methodologies in art history including the Dance of Death, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, Ship of Fools and Woodcut Novels are cornerstones of his artwork. In 1988, during a visit to Australia, while viewing a small porcelain woodfired bowl and teapot by Australian artist Gwyn Hanssen Pigott, Kurt Webb decided to abandon his desire to make functional pottery. He realized that Piggott’s clay work was beyond comparison or emulation and was impossibly inimitable. In 2015, inspired by using impeccably made, functional commercial tea ware, Webb decided to give pottery making a second chance. As a result, Webb’s new functional work acknowledges traditional influences while he pursues individuality through eclectic subject matter, meticulous construction, and decoratively glazed surfaces–all produced within a contemporary context. A tall vessel with a house and figures at the top.kurt webb, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, ceramics, gippsland campus, sculpture

Arthur WARREN (1958- ) Born Yallourn, Victoria Arthur Warren attended Gippsland Institute of Advanced Education from 1977 to 1979. He later returned as a visiting lecturer. After graduating Warren Arthur trained with Victor Greenaway for six and a half years, before establishing Amesfield Pottery in Upper Beaconsfield in 1986. Four porcelain lace pieceswarren arthur, ceramics, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, gippsland campus, alumni, victor greenaway, amesfield pottery

Gwyn HANSSEN PIGOTT (1935 - 11 July 2013) Born Ballarat Gwyn Hanssen-Pigott completed a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Melbourne University in 1954. She spent three years apprenticed to Ivan McMeekin at Sturt Pottery, Mittagong, New South Wales. As a teenager she was taught to through by Neville Bunning, Ceramics lecturer at the Ballarat Technical Art School (a division of the Ballarat School of Mines). Between 1958 and 1965 Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott worked at various potteries in the United Kingdom, including Winchcombe Pottery in Gloucestershire, Leach Pottery at St Ives, and Wenford Bridge Pottery and Aldermaston Pottery in Berkshire. In 1960 she established her own studio in London. The essence of her work is purity, simplicity and form. She worked with porcelain for strength and for its translucent nature, and fired with wood to add a dine ash bloom to glazes. In 1992 Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott visited the Ballarat School of Mines Ceramics students, under the direction if lecturers Neville French and Prue Venables In 1994 she was artist in residence at the Ballarat School of Mines for six months. Gwyn Hanson Piggott received the Order of Australia Medal in 2002. Born Gwynion Lawrie John at Ballarat on 01 January 1935, Gwyn Hanssen Piggott died in London on 11 July 2018 London where she was for a solo exhibition of her new work. It is believed this work was presented at the time of Gwyn Hanssen Piggott's residencey in Ballarat.. It is part of the Federation University Art Collection which features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007. Australian Studio CeramicsA bottle and two tumblers by renowned ceramicist Gwyn Hanssen-Piggott. art, artwork, ceramics, bowl, ballarat, gwyn john, ballarat school of mines, gwyn hanssen pigott

Johnson Bros. was founded by two brothers named Alfred and Frederick who purchased a pottery factory in Hanley, England, in 1883. They were grandsons of a renowned English potter, Alfred Meakin. They were later joined in the business by their brothers Henry and Robert. Their business grew rapidly, as they were one of the world's largest pottery factories by the turn of the 20th century. By 1970, Johnson Bros. obtained the Royal Charter to become the official provider of china for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. More than 1,300 patterns have been created throughout Johnson Brothers' history. Due to their growing success, manufacturing plants were established overseas including the establishment of a tableware factory, Johnson Brothers Australia in 1957 in Croydon, Victoria operated through a company known as Sovereign Pottery Ltd. Due to rising competition, Johnson Brothers became part of the Wedgewood Group in 1968. In 2015, following the acquisition of Wedgewood by Finnish company Fiskars, the Johnson Brothers branding was discontinued. The trademark on this bowl was used by Johnson Brothers between 1913 and 1942. An item which reflects the changing market for tableware that was reasonably priced and serviceable. Their innovation of the pottery line called semi-porcelain changed the industry. This development allowed potteries to produce fashionable pottery items that were affordable to all social classes of the time. Their use became widespread in Australia, especially following their establishment of a tableware factory in Melbourne, Victoria. A shallow white bowl with gold trim, probably used for serving vegetables at the table. The underside of the bowl bears the mark of Johnson Bros England. The mark is composed of a green crown above the words "Johnson Bros England" also in green.On under side of bowl, beneath a green crown "Johnson Bros/England"johnson brothers ceramics, domestic utensils, kitchenware