Showing 35 items
matching crinoline
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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - MAGGIE BARBER COLLECTION: CRINOLETTE, 1870's
Clothing. Cream polished cotton, full length half slip petticoat. Plackett at the back, fastens with two metal hooks, and hand-stitched loops. The back features a 'crinolette', where two rows of tapes are gathered in to give volume to the back of the garment. As the crinoline started to subside at the end of the 1860's. The centre front panel features 6 angled bands of lace 4.5 cm wide and angled to form a V shape. (1) A 9.5 cm band of pleated linen gauze-like fabric, edged with a 5 cm band of linen lace. (2) A 15 cm double layered frill-top layer 2 cm wide silk like pleats, lined with linen muslin type fabric, and an under frill of polished cotton, pleated in one cm wide knife pleats. The top frill is of fine cream cotton lace. At the top edge is a 3.5 cm wide band of floral cotton lace, and adjoined at the lower edge with a 9 cm deep pleated trim of exquisite cotton "floral and swirls" lace. The top frill is 42 cm wide, and extends over the centre front panel only. A cotton covered " stiffening- possibly bamboo or whale bone, extends 31.5 cm ;long at the crinolette. An unusual 'pocket like bag' is sewn into the right side seam 14 cm below the waist. This has rounded corners, and is 8 cm wide at the top, 17.5 cm wide at the lower edge, which is then rounded slightly. Overall length of the 'pocket' is 38 cms.costume, female, crinolette full length half slip -
Mission to Seafarers Victoria
Photograph - Photograph, Sepia, Just married, Harry and Dora, 14 February 1928
The Marriage Register lists Harold Priestley Simpson and Amy Dora Walker as the bride and groom, and the wedding date as 14th of February 1928. The photograph uses the personal Harry and Dora, instead of the formal Harold and Amy. In the Register, Amy started signing her name as Dora. before correcting it. The photograph shows that weddings took place at the Chapel during the late 1920's, and the style of weddings at the time. This includes the type of outfits worn, such as the length of the veil and the type of bouquet carried. Dora's Bridesmaids are depicted in 2 other images in the MTSV collection also an image of the chapel decked with flowers for the occasion. The article in the Herald of the day describes the event: "WEDDING AT SEAMEN'S CHAPEL Reception at Hotel Windsor The pretty little chapel at the Sea men's Institute was packed with interested friends this afternoon, when Miss Dora Walker, one of the Mission's most enthusiastic and efficient voluntary helpers, chose it as the setting for her marriage with Mr H. P. Simpson, son of Mr and Mrs J. H. Simpson, of Mornington. A group of her fellow workers decorated the chapel with lovely pink and white gladioli, carnations and roses. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. J. R. Weller, chaplain of the Mission, and the bride was given away by her father, Mr A. W. Walker, of Manning road, East Malvern. She wore a lovely ivory georgette frock, the finely tucked skirt being fashioned with a deep transparent hem of Chantilly lace. Over it fell a beautiful Honiton lace veil mounted on tulle and arranged to give the ef fect of a train. Fragrant white roses composed her bouquet. Two attendants followed her down the aisle — her sister, Miss Molly Walker, and Miss Ella Kendall — both wearing dainty shrimp pink georgette frocks and large crinoline straw hats in the same shade with a dainty edging of tulle. They carried bouquets of pink cactus dahlias nnd delphiniums. Mr Louis Buscombe was best man, and Mr George Thompson grooms man. After the ceremony Mr and Mrs Walker entertained about 50 guests at the Hotel Windsor."The photograph shows St. Peter chapel was being used for weddings in 1928. The Anglican church has been used for weddings since being finished in 1917. The Marriage Register shows that these weddings were legal in the Commonwealth of Australia, and lists Church of England as the denomination for this wedding. Miss Amy Dora Simpson (nee Walker) had a long association with the Mission, first as a young Volunteer with the Ladies Harbour Light Guild circa WW1, and through to her wedding in early 1928 and beyond. Square sepia, glossy photograph of a bride and groom, taken as they leave a building. Guests are throwing rice at the newlywed. The groom is turned towards the camera, while the bride is looking ahead, carrying a bouquet. There is a white border around top, bottom and left edges, the photograph seems to have been cut in half along the right edge.On the reverse: handwritten in blue pen JUST MARRIED!/DORA & HARRY/28/2/28. 618 is stamped in blue ink . (date is incorrect as wedding took place on 14/2/28)bride, wedding, groom, 1928, dora simpson, dora walker, st peter chapel, harry simpson, lhlg, flinders street, harold priestley simpson, valentine's day, amy dora walker, ladies harbour lights guild, mr and mrs a.w. walker, malvern, manning road, reverend j.r weller, molly walker, ella kendall, david simpson -
Mission to Seafarers Victoria
Photograph, 15/2/1928
This photograph shows one of the many weddings held at the Mission to Seafarers over the years and provides an overview of wedding fashion of the late 1920s. The Bride is posing in the courtyard of the Mission to Seamen. The bridesmaids were Ella Kendall and Molly Walker. The Walkers and Dora had a long association with the Mission and the LHLG and in the 1960s becoming president of the Flying Angel League which amalgamated with the LHLG in the early 1960s. In 1970 Dora received an OBE. Private images of the day for the record were supplied to the Mission by sons David and Brian in 2018. The article in the Herald of the day describes the event: "WEDDING AT SEAMEN'S CHAPEL Reception at Hotel Windsor The pretty little chapel at the Sea men's Institute was packed with interested friends this afternoon, when Miss Dora Walker, one of the Mission's most enthusiastic and efficient voluntary helpers, chose it as the setting for her marriage with Mr H. P. Simpson, son of Mr and Mrs J. H. Simpson, of Mornington. A group of her fellow workers decorated the chapel with lovely pink and white gladioli, carnations and roses. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. J. R. Weller, chaplain of the Mission, and the bride was given away by her father, Mr A. W. Walker, of Manning road, East Malvern. She wore a lovely ivory georgette frock, the finely tucked skirt being fashioned with a deep transparent hem of Chantilly lace. Over it fell a beautiful Honiton lace veil mounted on tulle and arranged to give the ef fect of a train. Fragrant white roses composed her bouquet. Two attendants followed her down the aisle — her sister, Miss Molly Walker, and Miss Ella Kendall — both wearing dainty shrimp pink georgette frocks and large crinoline straw hats in the same shade with a dainty edging of tulle. They carried bouquets of pink cactus dahlias nnd delphiniums. Mr Louis Buscombe was best man, and Mr George Thompson grooms man. After the ceremony Mr and Mrs Walker entertained about 50 guests at the Hotel Windsor."This photograph shows one of the many weddings performed at the Mission to Seafarers chapel over the years. Cross referencing with the marriage registers, also held in the collection, records that this photograph is Amy Dora Simpson (nee Dora Walker) of East Malvern marrying Harold Priestley Simpson of Surrey Hills / Mornington? on 14 February 1928.Sepia toned photograph of bride and attendants in the courtyard of the Mission to Seafarers. The bride's dress is calf length and she is standing with her veil draped in front of her, holding a large bouquet. There are two attendants to the right of the photograph, wearing layered calf length dresses and wearing cloche hats and holding small posy bouquets. The bridal group is posed standing in in the courtyard near the entrance to the MTS chapel.Small circular Blue ink stamp on rear of photograph: Printed by Harringtons stamped 2 small numerals : 3 and 8hat, flowers, veil, wedding, dress, ivy, shoes, dora walker, dora simpson, ella kendall, molly walker, amy dora walker, reverend j.r. weller, flinders street, st peter chapel, mission to seamen, seamen's mission, mission to seafarers, david simpson -
Greensborough Historical Society
Article - Article, Journal, Ann Dixon, Crinolines and bustles: collecting historical women's dresses 1820-1940, by Ann Dixon, 2016_06
Guide to collecting women's apparel, including descriptions of changing styles and fashions during the period 1820-18407 p. text and colour photographsFrom the magazine "The Genealogist" published by AIGSwomens costume, women's clothing, fashion, ann dixon