The Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme (KHES) produced electricity for the people living in the Kiewa Valley and beyond to many parts of Victoria. The people and their families working on the scheme were encouraged by their employer the State Electricity Commission of Victoria to purchase and use electrical appliances. The mix master was popular for mixing food for baking and for making juice drinks. Ron White owned this 1950s vintage Sunbeam model 9 mixer with stand, milk glass bowls and complete juicer. Ron was a senior member of staff during the construction and operation of the KHES.This mix master was owned by Ron White who was appointed Area Operations Engineer Kiewa in June 1956. Ron was later appointed General Superintendent and then in 1974 to principal Hydro Engineer of the recently titled Hydro Division.White electrical food mixer with six parts. 1. Motor upright - white, on black stand horizontal. Black dial at back with speeds numbered and type of mix eg. mash. Front switch on/off. Black electric cord attached. Long black handle on one side. 2 Two beaters, silver 3. Bowls, white one small and one large. The small one has a spout. 4. Squeezer, white - fits on top for juicing. Parts as with orange juicer and with funnel at the front for juice to flow into a bowl.'Sunbeam' (in red) / 'Mix Master' in (black) on gold oblong 'emblem' sunbeam mix master; kitchen appliance; cooking; ron white; kiewa hydro electric scheme; food preparation

The Hughes’ Family Scale No. 48 is a spring balance scale. It uses the Imperial measurements of ounces and pounds. There are 16 ounces (OZ) in one pound (LB), and each pound equals approximately 454 grams in Metric measurements. Scales have been used to measure and compare items for value for centuries. A weight was placed on one side of a balance and the object was placed on the other. Adjustments were made to either the weight or the object until the balance was horizontal, which meant that each side was the same weight. The Salter family business began in 1760 with spring makers, Richard and William Salter. In the late 18th century, Richard Salter invented the spring scale, where the weight of an object on the tray of the scale causes pressure on a spring in the scale. The pressure caused by gravity was then measured to calculate the weight of an object. Spring scales are still used today along with the more recent and accurate digital scales. The company began manufacturing in West Bromwich, England, in 1770. The firm was taken over by William’s sons, John and George. In 1824, after the death of John, the firm became George Salter & Co. The company produced a wide variety of products, including Britain’s first bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. In 1884 the Salter Trademark of a Staffordshire knot pierced by an arrow was registered. After over 100 years of manufacturing, the company was bought out by Staveley Industries, which was bought by Weigh-Tronix, and then that company was bought by HoMedics Company in 2004.This scale was made by Salter, the company that invented the balance scale, the first British bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. The scale represents the domestic equipment used for measuring in food preparation over 100 years ago. Modern kitchen scales are still using the same principal, along with scales used in business and industry.Scale; a domestic spring balance scale for measuring weight from 0 to 20 pounds. The scale’s grey metal case has a round white dial on the front with black markings, an arrow indicator and a round shallow metal bowl on a pedestal at the top. The scale is raised on a rectangular metal base with outward-sloping sides. An adjustable screw is on the dome top. The scale is marked from 0 to 20 pounds, with each pound marked in 1-ounce increments. The scale is named the Hughes Family Scale No. 48 and was made in Britain by Salter.“HUGHES’ / FAMILY SCALE / No. 48” “BRITISH MADE” “TO WEIGH 20 LBS BY 1 OZ” “SALTER” above logo [knotted rope with an arrow through loops]flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, hughes, salter, british made, family scale, no. 48, spring balance, scale, weighing instrument, weights and measures, weighing machine, kitchen utensil, baking accessory, domestic equipment, cookware, bakeware, kitchen scale, kitchen accessory, food preparation, recipes, cooking, measuring

The subject item is a good example of a large, hand-operated Bentwood box butter churn used to make up to 14 pounds of butter. It was made in Gisborne, Victoria, by the famous manufacturer, E. Cherry, and is known as an Improved Patent No.2 model probably dating from the late 1800s. The Cherry works specialised in making all types of butter churns and equipment for both domestic use on farms and small butter factories during the late nineteenth and early to mid. twentieth centuries. Milk was "separated" to retrieve the cream which was then beaten to make butter. E Cherry began making various models of Cherry butter churns in 1858, Edward Cherry migrated from Herefordshire England to Australia in 1855 with his wife Ann Appleby, nee Davis, and established a joinery workshop at Gisborne, Victoria. He began by making butter churns in his spare time and his product soon became popular allowing him to establish a viable business. A factory was established in 1875 and he started to make churns of all sizes including up to industrial scale. He exported his products to many countries around the world, Edward Cherry died in 1909 and the business was then run by his son George until he died in 1917. E Cherry's other son Thomas (1861-1945) was also involved in the firm maintaining an interest for several years. He had been born in Gisborne and became a senior house medical surgeon at the Melbourne Hospital in 1890. He continued his studies at Kings College London, eventually becoming a renowned bacteriologist and agricultural scientist. A significant item giving an snapshot into how early industrial manufacturing became established in Australia in the production of domestic and industrial dairy equipment.Butter churn wooden manually operated made by Cherry and Sons with rotating lever curved plywood basin and parallel cross beamed horizontally spoken churning apparatus inside with wooden plug at lower side of churn. Label in block transfer "E CHERRY / MAKER / GISBORN / VICTORIA / 2" "IMPROVED PATENT"warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, butter churn, wooden butter churn, e cherry & sons, dairy equipment, gisborne, food preparation

A machine fitted with sharp blades, for mashing, crushing or liquefying food ingredients. i.e vitamizing. The jug, made of glass, steel, aluminium or plastic, contains rotor blades that engage with a bit protruding from the base containing an electric motor. When activated by the switch on the base the sharp rotor blades chop, mix , mince, pulverize the ingredients in the jug . The degree of mince depends on the time the motor is running. The jug is easily removed from the base to pour the mixed ingredients where needed and the rotors are safely and easily cleaned by rinsing under water.c1940, an electric, 'Vulcan' Vitamizer, with the original cloth covered flex and bake-lite lever switch at front of the cream bake-lite base . The jug- shaped chrome blender has a red, thick, rubber lid. Front: : Vulcan / LM1 Base ; VULCAN / TYPE LM1 / Patent Pending Design / Volts 220 Amps 8vitamizer, food preparation, cooking, vulcan pty ltd australia, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, ormond, housekeeping

Reproduction sepia toned photograph of four uniformed women preparing food in a kitchen. Mounted on foam core board.food preparation, nursing, nutrition

This butter mould/pat may have been manufactured post 1967(year post codes appeared in Australia) however the post code was only stamped on after it was machined. This type of butter mould was used by rural families to fashion home/farm made butter. This period was in most rural regions a time of self sufficiency where any domestic type implement which could be fashioned by the family would be crafted with skill. Shopping for goods required catalogues from stores located in major rural towns and cities and involved lengthy waiting times. Travelling to and from these specialised stores was not pleasant due to the relatively poor quality of the roads and the lengthy times taken. The small general stores in the Kiewa Valley could not cater for all the needs of the valley. The 1960's was a time when facilities especially goods and services started to improve drastically. The S.E.C. of Victoria with its Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provided not only an improvement of facilities in the valley but also a increase in the population. This increase resulted in a greater demand for local produce. This item is one of many domestic food processing implements used by Kiewa Valley households in the mid 1900s, whether on the farm or in the small towns and hamlets. Self sufficiency was the key to survival during these early times. Where ever possible supplies from within the valley were preferred to that brought in by travelling salesmen or traders. This butter mould and butter pat was commonly used to fashion "home" made butter throughout the valley and in some cases supplied to "outside" regional towns. Although this method of production was phased out by better access to goods from nearby cities the revival of the good organic home grown produce in the 1980s saw a greater demand of this type of farm based produce.This well crafted circular wooden butter mould could also be used as a butter pat.The handle in the middle of the mould was not added after the crafting but has been fashioned from the initial block of wood when the bowl was crafted. The bowl structure has a rim around the edge.The top of the handle has an ink stamp "T. & W. Dav" on the top line and "Tawonga 3697" underneath.domestic food preparation, wooden butter pat, butter mould circular, dairy industry

This butter pat profiler may have been manufactured post 1967(year post codes appeared in Australia) however the post code was only stamped on after it was machined. This type of butter mould was used by rural families to fashion home/farm made butter. This period was in most rural regions a time of self sufficiency where any domestic type implement which could be fashioned by the family would be crafted with skill. Shopping for goods required catalogues from stores located in major rural towns and cities and involved lengthy waiting times. Travelling to and from these specialised stores was not pleasant due to the relatively poor quality of the roads and the lengthy times taken. The small general stores in the Kiewa Valley could not cater for all the needs of the valley. The 1960's was a time when facilities especially goods and services started to improve drastically. The S.E.C. of Victoria with its Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provided not only an improvement of facilities in the valley but also a increase in the population. This increase resulted in a greater demand for local produce.This item is one of many domestic food processing implements used by Kiewa Valley households in the mid 1900s, whether on the farm or in the small towns and hamlets. Self sufficiency was the key to survival during these early times. Where ever possible supplies from within the valley were preferred to that brought in by travelling salesmen or traders. This butter mould and butter pat was commonly used to fashion "home" made butter throughout the valley and in some cases supplied to "outside" regional towns. Although this method of production was phased out by better access to goods from nearby cities the revival of the good organic home grown produce in the 1980s saw a greater demand of this type of farm based produce.This butter Pat/Profiler has on its base two patterns. On each end it has horizontal grooves cut into the wood which produce distinct lines onto the surface of the butter. between these grooves there is a section of two double lines crossing in the middle and separated by eleven horizontal lines The base has an elongated rectangular shape. The upper body has been sanded into a smooth convex shaped form where a wooden circular hand grip has been fashioned.On the top of the hand grip is stamped in black print"T. & W. Davies" and under this"TAWONGA 3697"domestic food preparation, wooden butter pat, butter mould circular, dairy industry

This butter pat profiler may have been manufactured post 1967 (year post codes appeared in Australia) however the post code was only stamped on after it was machined. This type of butter mould was used by rural families to fashion home/farm made butter. This period was in most rural regions a time of self sufficiency where any domestic type implement which could be fashioned by the family would be crafted with skill. Shopping for goods required catalogues from stores located in major rural towns and cities and involved lengthy waiting times. Travelling to and from these specialised stores was not pleasant due to the relatively poor quality of the roads and the lengthy times taken. The small general stores in the Kiewa Valley could not cater for all the needs of the valley. The 1960's was a time when facilities especially goods and services started to improve drastically. The S.E.C. of Victoria with its Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provided not only an improvement of facilities in the valley but also a increase in the population. This increase resulted in a greater demand for local produce.This item is one of many domestic food processing implements used by Kiewa Valley households in the mid 1900s, whether on the farm or in the small towns and hamlets. Self sufficiency was the key to survival during these early times. Where ever possible supplies from within the valley were preferred to that brought in by travelling salesmen or traders. This butter mould and butter pat was commonly used to fashion "home" made butter throughout the valley and in some cases supplied to "outside" regional towns. Although this method of production was phased out by better access to goods from nearby cities the revival of the good organic home grown produce in the 1980s saw a greater demand of this type of farm based produce.This butter pat is one of two,see KVHS 0071 (B). It has been crafted from wood. One side has grooves running from the handle to the square shaped bottom. These grooves would stop the wet butter from clinging to the pat. The top side of the pat has been bevelled on both sides and the bottom edge. The hand grip is flat and curved to allow for a comfortable hold.domestic food preparation, wooden butter pat, butter mould circular, dairy industry, butter

This butter pat profiler may have been manufactured post 1967(year post codes appeared in Australia) however the post code was only stamped on after it was machined. This type of butter mould was used by rural families to fashion home/farm made butter. This period was in most rural regions a time of self sufficiency where any domestic type implement which could be fashioned by the family would be crafted with skill. Shopping for goods required catalogues from stores located in major rural towns and cities and involved lengthy waiting times. Travelling to and from these specialised stores was not pleasant due to the relatively poor quality of the roads and the lengthy times taken. The small general stores in the Kiewa Valley could not cater for all the needs of the valley. The 1960's was a time when facilities especially goods and services started to improve drastically. The S.E.C. of Victoria with its Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme provided not only an improvement of facilities in the valley but also a increase in the population. This increase resulted in a greater demand for local produce.This item is one of many domestic food processing implements used by Kiewa Valley households in the mid 1900s, whether on the farm or in the small towns and hamlets. Self sufficiency was the key to survival during these early times. Where ever possible supplies from within the valley were preferred to that brought in by travelling salesmen or traders. This butter mould and butter pat was commonly used to fashion "home" made butter throughout the valley and in some cases supplied to "outside" regional towns. Although this method of production was phased out by better access to goods from nearby cities the revival of the good organic home grown produce in the 1980s saw a greater demand of this type of farm based produce.This butter pat is one of two,see KVHS 0071 (A). It has been crafted from wood. One side has grooves running from the handle to the square shaped bottom. These grooves would stop the wet butter from clinging to the pat. The top side of the pat has been bevelled on both sides and the bottom edge. The hand grip is flat and curved to allow for a comfortable hold.domestic food preparation, wooden butter pat, butter mould circular, dairy industry

This item was used at a time when there was a limited range of spices available and sought after by domestic and commercial kitchens. The taste buds of the average Australian diner were limited to the basic English style dishes which had been delivered by the early colonial days. Rural areas where slower in experimenting with Asian and European cuisine. The influx of European cuisine from refugees fleeing both World War I and world War II brought a different appreciation of gourmet food. The increase in Asian spices was brought about by Australians becoming more aware of the Asian "scene" through the conflicts of Korean and Vietnam military action. The "standard" type spices such as Cinnamon, nutmeg and similar spices offered by Robert Harper and later other Food and Spices whole sellers and processors where a direct result of a greater influx of migrants from spices rich societies and resulted in a greater range of "Asian" spices This became more visible after demise of the "White Australian Policy" on immigration and the great media revolution of Televised cooking shows from the 1950s on. The sustainability of containers such as this re-useable tin and cardboard spice holder, which could be replenished and not thrown away after it was empty was it a time period well before the "throw away" society had crept into the Valley.This spice container was used mainly in domestic kitchen within the Kiewa Valley. Those European construction workers of the SEC Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme had brought their continental cuisine into the valley and that was the beginning of a new era in highlighting different tastes. This rural valley had a greater interaction with people from other nation's cuisines and by association became more infused with a broader range of spices and food preparations.This item (spice shaker) is constructed by using a thick cardboard cylinder with both ends closed by tin plated light steel lids. The bottom lid is not removable however the top lid is removable to allow the contents (Cinnamon Spice) to be refilled. The lid has thirteen small holes which allow the contents to be shaken out. The outer side of the cylinder has been covered (glued on) by a printed black and yellow label detailing contents , weight, and supplier.On the front side of the printed label outside of the label boundary is "To make a shaker of this tin - take the lid off and remove the paper from inside the lid" Within the marked horse shoe shaped boundary is" HARPER'S ground spices star brand" underneath "CINNAMON" underneath this is printed "1 oz. NET WEIGHT" and under this, within its own frame " ROBERT HARPER COMPANY LIMITED (incorporated in Victoria) AUSTRALIA." On the back within its own box is "HARPER'S star brand GROUND SPICES" and underneath "These Pure Spices are packed in the following Varieties". Below this is a list (going down) "CINNAMON CARRAWAYS CAYENNE MIXED CLOVES CASSIA CORIANDER GINGER MACE TURMERIC NUTMEGS PIMENTO"kitchen spices, spice shakers, food preparation

Bottled Phenyle cleaner was used throughout the 1900's in domestic kitchens, toilets and other "clean, germ free" environments. Some of these environments would encompass dairying milk handling rooms and hospital kitchens and ablution areas. It is a product which has resulted in the poisoning of some unwitting users (newspaper accounts of a woman in 1928 who drank some phenyle mistakenly for wine and died). The reliance of effective poisonous cleaning products in kitchens, especially in the 1900's was and is still a very hazardous element that the "most pivotal place in a house" contains. In the era when this particular bottle was used (1920's) the main means where consumed around the kitchen table, and this was especially so in rural areas. Keeping this area "germ" free was a mandatory requirement.This bottle is significant to the Kiewa Valley because this area was mostly rural with "out houses" and milk collection areas that required that "extra attention" of sanitation. Rural areas also where more prone to have the kitchen area as a general meeting place for the family before dinner and other meals. Sanitation was of greater importance in rural areas, due to the greater distances to hospitals and doctors if contamination occurred. City homes at this time frame had lounge rooms for the daily get together of the family unit. This was an era before the television and computer age fragmented and isolated family members from one another. This was a time that family members grouped together in the kitchen to find out "the latest news".This amber glass, diamond shaped bottle with cork stopper once contained Phenyle. Phenyle is a highly poisonous liquid. The amber opaque glass was used and not a clear glass to highlight it's content. It has a cork stopper at the top of a slender neck. All the glass embossed writing is highlighted by a string of crosses. The cross was used to enforce a visual danger sign.On one side "THIS BOTTLE IS THE PROPERTY OF" and in large print underneath "KITCHEN'S" and below this and underlined "POISONOUS". On the next side "NOT TO BE TAKEN" and next side in very large print and surrounded by a border "PHENYLE" with crosses enclosing it. On the bottom of a "blank side is "REGd. No. 2140" On the base is M 959 and Mkitchen cleaners, food preparation area, ablutions

This type of butter churn was used around the early to mid 20 century by household and small farms of the Kiewa Valley who kept cows for Milk. The buy product of the milk was cream and butter. Once the cows had been milked, often by hand, women would place the milk in shallow dish, and next morning the cream would be separated from the milk. Or a cream separator machine would be used. The cream would then be churned by the paddles in the butter churner until it formed in butter clumps. Butter Pats would be used to take the butter out and press into triangle butter blocksThis butter churner is significant due to its historical value which explains how butter was made by hand before this process became mechanistically made. Many houses or small farms in the Kiewa Valley had these butter churns to make their own butter for their household or to sell. This has very good interpretation significance as it adds to the history of dairy industry in the Kiewa Valley. Wooden box with a metal handle for turning the blades /paddles /slats inside the box.These blades churn the cream when the handle is turned. There is also a wooden handle and a wooden lid.butter, dairy, milk, manual, domestic, item, food, preparation, dairying, technology

Used domestically, though any extra butter would have been sold to neighbours. Many families kept a cow or two for milk etc. Cream needed to be at least 2 days old - the thicker the better. The handle was turned until the cream turned to butter,the whey was poured off and the butter washed in cold water until the water ran clear. Generally salt and bicarbonate of soda were added. Two pats were used to form butter into 1lb lots.This was used by Mrs (1890-1980) Carl Wehner who was the son of the blacksmith Herman Wehner. Wehner's Blacksmith's was founded at Orbost in 1889.Wooden "Cherry" butter churn with wood and metal turning handle. It has a detachable wooden lid.Front - E. Cherry - improve maker patent, Gisborne stencilled 0 Bottom - stencilled 0 On top of lid handle - 49260butter-churn domestic-items food-preparation wehner-hermann

This domestic kitchen appliance is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesVery rusted round tin with detachable bottom and lid for easy removal of cheese. Small eyelets on each side and large handles each side. Top and bottom lids have holes in them to allow moisture to escape.cheese-mould domestic food-preparation

Small copper kettle with carved black wooden handle.kettle cooking copperware domestic food-preparation

These butter pats are typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factories.A pair of small wooden butter pats with ridged surface on one side and smooth on the back . Each has a hole in the handle for hanging. butter-pats domestic food-preparation

This item was hand-carved by Mark Richardson in 1899 at Tabbara. He operated the Richardson saw mill on the Brodribb at Tabbara and was a farmer at Bete Bolong.A hand-carved wooden rolling pin made from local blackwood."by Mark Richardson 1899"rolling-pin domestic food-preparation richardson-mark

This butter mold is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA wooden bowl which uses the lid as an imprint plunger. The imprint is a floral design and has a long handle. The bowl has a hole in the base for easy removal of butter.butter-mould domestic food-preparation

One small thin butter stamp rolling pin covered in tiny squares. One larger butter stamp rolling pin. Both are wooden.butter-stamps domestic food-preparation

This item is an example of a food processing appliance used in the late 19th century long before electricity came to Orbost.A cast iron raisin stoner. It has a clamp for attachment to a bench and has a wooden handle on a turning arm.On arm-PAT.APP. Aug 20.95 Oct 5-97 On one side- WET THE RAISINS On other side-ENTERPRISE M.F.C. PHILADELPHIA. P.A. U.S.A. On chute- No. 38raisin-stoner food-preparation

This domestic kitchen appliance is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA cast iron raisin stoner with a clamp. It has a wooden handle on a turning arm.On arm-PAT.APP. Aug 20.95 Oct 5-97 On one side- WET THE RAISINS On other side-ENTERPRISE M.F.C. PHILADELPHIA. P.A. U.S.A. On chute- No. 38raisin-stoner food-preparation

This item was used by Helena Warren (nee McKeown), a well known photographer and local press correspondent. She lived at Newmerella. The meat mincer was a particularly popular kitchen gadget. By means of the mincer left overs and off cuts could be transformed into shepherd's pie or mince steak. Gadgets like this Universal food chopper are typical of domestic inventions designed to reinforce the principles of thrift and labour-saving. Many of these gadgets were imported from the United States. A cast iron metal hand mincer with a long metal body with an opening at one end, inside which is a circular spiral blade and a screw clamp attachment at the other end. On one side of the mincer is a curved metal handle held in place by a metal nut and a wooden bulb shaped knob at the end. There is a metal circular webbed blade held in place by a metal nut and bolt."Universal No. 2 brand; L.F. & C., New Britain, Conn., U.S.A."mincer chopper food-preparation

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. The scales were part of the collection of kitchen items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum.Heavy silver-coloured cast iron balance scales with an 8-sided tray to hold the weights, and a 4-armed cradle to hold the tin ingredient tray. The scooped ingredient tray has folded edges.TO WEIGH 14lb (on base: Uebergang No.F16)domestic items, food preparation, allansford, uebergang, kitchen scales

This particular food mincer was manufactured by Enterprise Manufacturing Company. Located in Philadelphia, this company specialized in making hardware products. The company was especially known for its cherry pitters, apple peelers, and coffee mills. The company was founded in 1864 and was located on the corner of Dauphin, 3rd, and American Streets. Enterprise Manufacturing Co. remained in business until 1956 when it was bought by Silex Co.A mass produced early domestic item made for home food preparation this item's first patent design was approved in 1897. Manufactured by a well known company in the USA the "Enterprise Manufacturing Company” up until 1956. They specialised in making kitchen appliances of various types for domestic use and for export. Food mincers of the subject items design are still being produced today under the brand name of "Universal" made by Universal Trading Inc USA.Food mincer, metal, clamp on bench style, with rotating wooden handle. Inscriptions stamped on metal.Marked "Enterprise tinned Meat Chopper" "No. 10" "Enterprise MF'G Co. PHILA. USA" "PAT. JAN.30.83" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, mincer, food mincer, meat mincer, food preparation, kitchen utensil, domestic object, enterprise manufacturing company, kitchen appliance

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

The fruit juice or lemon squeezer is a small kitchen utensil designed to extract juice from lemons or other citrus fruit such as oranges, grapefruit, or lime. It is designed to separate and crush the pulp of the fruit in a way that is easy to operate. Lemon squeezers can be made from any solid, acid-resistant material, such as plastic, glass, metal (usually aluminum) or ceramic. The oldest known lemon squeezers were found in Kütahya, Turkey and date to the first quarter of the 18th century. These ceramic presses are in the traditional style of Turkish pottery of the 18th century and have a superficial resemblance to today's press equipment with cones, though they are designed differently. These examples were individually made, and specially designed for making the then popular citrus drink sorbet. Lemons are not native to northern Turkey, though during the 17th and 18th centuries they were imported in bulk to Constantinople.The fruit juice press is an example of early 20th century kitchen utensils and is not associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unable to be determined at this time and the item is believed to have been made around 1900. This item is currently being used in Flagstaffs Hill village display and regarded as significant as it demonstrates domestic kitchen utensils used around the turn of the 19th century and today is a collectable item. Vintage lemon/citrus fruits squeezer cast iron juicer with two sections hinged together strainer on one section has holes for letting liquid escape.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, food press, food preparation, fruit juice press, kitchen utensil

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

An example of baking equipment used in Victorian times and still used to day.Spoon, wooden, blonde colour. Spoon section tapers to rounded point and handle is flat and shaped.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden spoon, food preparation, baking equipment, kitchen utensil

The colander is an extremely useful tool in the kitchen, as it allows food to be fully drained of liquids such as water or oil. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Mottled blue enamel colander with draining holes in the base and sides. Two thin handles on lip of bowl.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, colander, food preparation