Showing 78 items matching hand mirror
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Mont De Lancey
Functional object - Mirror, Franz Streizel, Unknown
... This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest.... This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest ...This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest to the Mont De Lancey Museum of hand carved furniture and items made by Mr Franz Striezel by his grandaughter Mrs Dorothy Adamson. Dorothy was a friend of Nella Lord (nee Sebire). Dorothy passed away in 2007. It was to be known as The Franz Striezel Collection. Franz Streizel came from Germany in 1886 and was one of the three recognised craftsmen (Art Carvers) in Australia who contributed to the wood carvings in public buildings and honour boards throughout Australia. The National Gallery at their request had two small panels and a tobacco jar (some of his work), donated by Mrs D Adamson. They considered these pieces highly valuable.An elaborately carved wooden framed mirror with two carved kookaburras, one with a lizard in its beak as well as some Australian flora - eucalyptus leaves, flowers and gumnuts around the edges of the frame.mirrors, functional objects, wall mirrors, objects -
Mont De Lancey
Functional object - Mirror, Franz Streizel, Unknown
... This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest... around the edges of the frame. This hand carved framed mirror ...This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest to the Mont De Lancey Museum of hand carved furniture and items made by Mr Franz Striezel by his grandaughter Mrs Dorothy Adamson. Dorothy was a friend of Nella Lord (nee Sebire). Dorothy passed away in 2007. It was to be known as The Franz Striezel Collection. Franz Streizel came from Germany in 1886 and was one of the three recognised craftsmen (Art Carvers) in Australia who contributed to the wood carvings in public buildings and honour boards throughout Australia. The National Gallery at their request had two small panels and a tobacco jar (some of his work), donated by Mrs D Adamson. They considered these pieces highly valuable.A rectangular beautifully carved wooden framed mirror featuring a gold painted carved lion head at the top and gold painted crest shaped ornamentation around the edges of the frame.mirrors, functional objects, wall mirrors, objects -
Mont De Lancey
Functional object - Mirror, Franz Streizel, Unknown
... This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest...-and-dandenong-ranges Mirror Functional object An ornately hand carved ...This hand carved framed mirror is part of a special bequest to the Mont De Lancey Museum of hand carved furniture and items made by Mr Franz Striezel by his grandaughter Mrs Dorothy Adamson. Dorothy was a friend of Nella Lord (nee Sebire). Dorothy passed away in 2007. It was to be known as The Franz Striezel Collection. Franz Streizel came from Germany in 1886 and was one of the three recognised craftsmen (Art Carvers) in Australia who contributed to the wood carvings in public buildings and honour boards throughout Australia. The National Gallery at their request had two small panels and a tobacco jar (some of his work), donated by Mrs D Adamson. They considered these pieces highly valuable.An ornately hand carved rectangular wooden framed mirror with a shelf at the bottom and a carved ancient Egyptian style head in the middle of the frame at the top. There are two carved gargoyles on each top side. The mirror glass is shaped.mirrors, functional objects, wall mirrors, objects -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Dressing bag, Mary Glass Dickson, Circa1885
... silver handled hand mirror. 321.25 Hairbrush wooden handled... backed 321.24 Mirror silver handled hand mirror. 321.25 Hairbrush ...John Glass Cramond 1829 and James Dickson 1831-1910 were founders of a large drapery store. Both were Scots and both came separately to Australia in 1852. Cramond initially came for gold but soon opened a store in St Kilda with a post Office attached and he was the first post master there. Dickson was a farmer’s son but became a draper and while he was unsuccessful on the Bendigo diggings and then returned to Melbourne where he met Cramond and soon after they opened a store on Lonsdale Street. They opened their business in Warrnambool in 1855 as a general store with groceries, drapery and ironmongery. Both partners were involved with the community and James Dickson was an original director of the Warrnambool Woollen Mill 1909 and the Warrnambool Cheese and butter factory. He also served on the committee of management of Warrnambool Base Hospital. This case was a wedding gift from James Dickson Jnr to his wife Mary Glass Cramond on the occasion of their wedding. This item has significance on a number of levels. It belonged to a member of one of Warrnambool’s earliest pioneering families and it marks the occasion when the two families of Cramond and Dickson were linked through the marriage of James Dickson jnr and Mary Glass Cramond. The firm played a significant part in the development of the city and traded for nearly 150 years. It therefore has social significance to Warrnambool. The item is well provenance with the case initialed and items within the case monogrammed. The case and its items are aesthetically quite beautiful as well as being typical of travelling or dressing cases of the more well to do, of the time. Mappin & Webb were manufacturers of some standing with the Mappin name appearing in manufacturing as early as 1775.The company has held a royal warrant as silversmiths since 1897 to the present day and as crown jeweler since 2012. Throughout this time, they have manufactured quality items for the luxury market. It provides an insight into the way ladies travelled and the items which they considered essential. This consists of a black leather with leather handle attached with brass fittings. Middle opening with side pocket on one side with metal catches. Inside has removable sections for holding the numerous containers and items belonging to the case. Interior of the case is dark blue satin. The items contained within the case are as follows: 321.1 Luggage case 321.2 Glass bottle rectangular, silver monogrammed lid, empty. 321.3 Tall round glass bottle, silver monogrammed lid, empty. 321.4 Small glass bottle with pink powder, silver monogrammed lid. 321.5 Small multi sided bottle with stopper and brass hinged lid. 321.6 Tall round bottle with silver monogrammed lid. 321.7 Tall thin multi sided bottle with brass lid. 321.8 Cream coloured monogrammed jar cotton wool inside. 321.9 Clothes brush rectangular cream back. 321.10.1Glove stretcher bone coloured .10.2 Case black leather. 321.11.1 hair comb cream with silver edge .11.2 Case black leather 321.12 Hair brush cream handle 321.13Spatula cream monogrammed 321.14 Mirror, silver round with handle. 321.15 Writing compendium .1 Case black leather .2 Pen with nib .3 Lead pencil .4 Navy satin covered blotting book 321.16 Inkwell glass bottle in small black leather case. 321.17 Match striker in leather case. 321.18 Mirror in black leather case rectangular 321.19 Small case for visiting cards. 321.20Sewing kit rectangular, contains threads and needles pkts x 3 321.21Container, small, hinged tortoise shell patterned. 321.22.1 Manicure set .2 Scissors small .3 Scissors large .4Corkscrew with Mother of pearl handle .5 Pocket knife with Mother of pearl handle .6Tweezers with Mother of pearl handle .7 File with Mother of pearl handle .8 Fine hook Mother of pearl handle .9 Bodkin .10 Bodkin 321.23 Hairbrush oval silver backed 321.24 Mirror silver handled hand mirror. 321.25 Hairbrush wooden handled with Mother of pearl inlay. 321.26 Cylinder, silver with removable lid and small phial of iodine labelled Felton’s pocket iodine. 321.27 Phial small glass with gold decorations. 321.28 Inhaler with insert 321.29 Thimble, metal. 321.30 Silver backed hair brush 321.31 silver backed clothes brushEngraved on side pocket: M.G.D. Mappin and Webb Sheffield and London. Some of the items are monogrammed as per the list above. A number of the glass bottles have lids hallmarked Mappin & Webb London and Sheffield makers stamped inside lid with hall marks history of warrnambool, cramond and dickson, mary glass cramond, dressing bag, woman's toiletry bag 1880 -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Wedding of Sarah Ann Bird (b.1881) to Edward Ernest Pepper (b.1874) held at the Bird family home of "View Hill', Eltham, 1904
... knife; Mr J. H. Kilpatrick, hand painted mirror; Mrs Kerwin... knife; Mr J. H. Kilpatrick, hand painted mirror; Mrs Kerwin ...Sarah Bird 4th from left (seated) and Edward Pepper on her left (standing). George Bird, 2nd from right (seated). George Bird her great-grandfather and Sarah Bird and Edward Pepper, her grandparents. [from Evelyn Observer and Bourke East Record, morning edition, 18 November 1904, p. 3:] ORANGE BLOSSOM. The marriage of Miss Sarah A. Bird, eldest daughter of Mr George Bird, of "View Hill," Eltham, to Mr Ernest Edward Pepper, of Diamond Creek, was celebrated at the residence of the bride's parents on Wednesday, 9th November, 1904. The ceremony took place at 4 p.m. and was performed by the Rev Percey Knight, B.A., of Alphington. The bride entered the drawing room with her father who gave her away, and the Wedding March, was nicely played by Miss Wild. The bride was prettily dressed in creme voile nicely tucked and gathered, trimmed with guipure lace and silk ruching, sprays of orange blossom, wreath and veil, and she carried a shower bouquet. Her travelling dress was a very pretty blue. The brides-maids were Miss Ethel Barker dressed in pale green voile trimmed with creme guipure lace and silk ruching; and Miss Button in creme voile, guipure lace, silk ruching; both carried pretty bouquets. The groomsmen were Mr Lorimer, of Diamond Creek, and Mr George Bird, brother of the bride. Between forty and fifty relatives and friends partook of a bountifully provided and nicely laid out breakfast. The usual toasts were honored, and congratulations were freely tendered "to the happy couple". The decorations were very tastefully executed by Miss Beatrice Nelson, and Mr Sayers. The evening was very pleasantly spent in singing, recitations, games, and other suitable pastimes, while others "tipped the light fantastic toe". About 10 p.m., "while all was merry as a marriage bell", the bride and bridegroom departed secretly "to cheat surprise and prying eyes". The presents were numerous and handsome:– Parents of the bride, sewing machine; Miss A. Bird, silver breakfast cruet; Miss N. Bird, bread board and knife; Master A. Bird, pair glass dishes; Master R. Bird, pair photo frames; Mr Sayers, tea set; Miss Kidd, silver jam dish and spoon; Miss Wilkinson, carpet; Mr J. Kilpatrick, cheque; Mr W. Kilpatrick, clock; Miss Kilpatrick, silver butter knife; Mr J. H. Kilpatrick, hand painted mirror; Mrs Kerwin, pictures; Mrs Gilsenan, the handsome wedding cake; Mrs Nelson, Japanese occasional table; Misses Nelson, jugs and candlestick; Mrs Bunker, silver cruet stand; Miss Bunker, hand-painted vases; Miss E. Bunker, epergne; Mr E. Bunker, crumb tray and brush; Miss Jessie Gilsenan, cake stand; Mr Harold Gilsenan, auger basin and ornaments; Mr Lorimer, silver breakfast cruet; Mr A. Collins and Miss Jones, epergne; Miss Cassie Sweeney, jardiniere; Miss Ida and Ollie Cooper, silver butter dish; Miss Mills, large vases; Misses M. and F. Shillinglaw, handsome oak clock; Misses C. and E. Shillinglaw, pair large pictures; Mr Lucas and Miss Sutton, silver butter dish and knife, and silver jam dish and spoon; Miss M. and A. Short, teapot, cheese dish, and tumblers; Mr and Mrs J. Anderson, butter dish; Miss Williams, pen tray; Miss Griffiths, vases; Mr I. Hill, cheque; Miss Wild, biscuit barrel; Mr, Mrs and Miss Brown, trifle bowl and crystal jug; Mrs Weller, water jug and glasses; Mrs Hadfield, pair glass dishes and butter dish; Mr and Mrs Blackney, photo frames; Mr Wilson, beaded basket pin cushion; Mr Linsy, cheque; Mrs Linsy, fruit dish; Mrs Stebbing, pair candle sticks; Mrs Blanchard, pictures.Digital copy of framed sepia photographanderson, bird, blanchard, blackney, bunker, collins, cooper, edward ernest pepper, george bird, george bird jnr, gilsenan, griffiths, hadfield, hill, jones, kerwin, kidd, kilpatrick, linsy, mills, nelson, sarah ann bird, sayers, shillinglaw, short, stebbing, sutton, sweeney, view hill, wedding, weller, wild, wilkinson, williams, wilson, brown -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Personal Effects, leather strop 'Jason', c1940
A razor strop (or razor strap) is a flexible strip of leather or canvas used to straighten and polish the blade of a straight razor, a knife, or a woodworking tool like a chisel. Unlike honing or sharpening a blade, in which a whetstone removes metal bent out of alignment from the blade's edge, stropping the blade re-aligns the indentations without removing any material. The strop may be a hanging strop or a hand-held paddle. Various abrasive compounds may be applied to the strop to aid in polishing the blade while stropping to obtain a mirror-like finish. The properties of the compound applied will alter the polishing result. Jeweller's rouge is a very fine abrasive compound. The green Chromium(III) oxide compound is most often used as an abrasive compound. Sprays containing diamond particles are another option. Stropping is primarily done with straight razors, used for shaving, as these are the thinnest blades in everyday use, and require stropping at each use, due to the thinness of the blade Two points are key to stropping: Draw the blade spine-first along the strop. By contrast, honing is done edge-first. When you turn the blade at the end of a stroke, turn it over the spine, so the edge moves away from the strop and faces you, and the spine rests on the strop. This preserves the edge – if the blade is turned over with the edge against the strop, this will roll the blade edge, defeating the purpose of stropping As the use of safety razors increased in popularity this 'Jason' strop prolonged the life of each razor blade thus making them economical.A leather 'Jason' strop, for sharpening safety shaving razor blades, with box. Top of Box: J / The JASON / STROP/ Reg. Trade Mark / for SAFETY RAZOR BLADES / Reg. Patent No. 25435/35 ; Back : How to operate the JASON STROP ( instructions) Side: JASON / Razor Strop Dressing / A keen smooth blade will always be assured by the / occasional use of JASON RAZOR STROP DRESSING/ Side: FIFTY SHAVES WITH ONE BLADE ! / by using - JASON and JASON / Razor Blade Strop Razor Blade Dressing. End: JASON / Made by MEIK BROS. Pty. Ltd. / 15-17 Bedford St., Collingwood, and / 287 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Vic. End: JASON / SAFETY RAZOR BLADE STROP.safety razors, the jason strop, shaving equipment, personal effects, strops, meik bros pty ltd, gillette, collingwood melbourne -
The Beechworth Burke Museum
Textile - Banner, c1872
This banner was one of five banners gifted to the Beechworth Chinese community in recognition of their support of the Hospital and Benevolent Asylum in 1875, from the Carnival Committee. These banners had been purchased in China by a social envoy from Beechworth then presented to the Chinese community during the Beechworth Fine Arts Exhibition in May of that same year, by Donald Fiddes, President of the Ovens District Hospital. The Burke Museum's Chinese Collection presents the history of Chinese settlement in Beechworth from 1856 and its involvement in local community affairs in the second half of the 19th century. In settling in the area they formed their own community with distinctive Chinese cultural traditions, forming their own 'camps' with laid out streets, housing a Temple, Chinese Theatre and restaurants, hotels, stores, gambling houses and dwellings. Members of the Chinese community took an active interest in town affairs and were generous donors to the appeal to build the Ovens District Hospital in 1856/7. The vibrant colours and dynamic graphics of the silk embroidered Chinese banners were a highlight of Beechworth Charitable processions that took place in the main street. Two of the Chinese banners were conserved for the Burke Museum in 2006 by Carol Campbell of Phoenix Conservation Services with funding from Victoria’s Heritage Grants. In 2015, with the enormous support of the Copland Foundation and fundraising activities by the Friends of the Bur Museum Committee, conservation of the third banner was undertaken by Artlab Australia in Adelaide.The banners display traditional Chinese textile techniques and are visually beautiful and very rare and are considered of local and national significance, with the potential to be deemed internationally significant.The banner has a narrow fuchsia embroidered top border, a wider embroidered panel depicting 2 dogs with embroidered Chinese text and a larger lower panel with the embroidered text “PRESENTED TO THE CHINESE OF BEECHWORTH BY THE COMMITEES OF THE PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS (missing) THAT TOWN IN COMMEMOR (missing) OF THE CARNIVAL 1873” The 2 lower panels have narrow decorative borders decorated with mirrors and extensive embroidery. There is an additional embroidered tab running along the right hand edge. The bottom edge has a wide knotted fringe. The back is lined with fabric decorated with a painted scene. Refer Attachment 1 quote ARTLAB AustPRESENTED TO THE CHINESE / OF BEECHWORTH BY THE / COMMITEES OF THE PUBLIC / INSTITUTIONS THAT / TOWN IN COMMEMOR / OF THE CARNIVAL 1873beechworth, burke museum, chinese, benevolent asylum, ovens district hospital, beechworth carnival processions, carnival, processions, beechworth chinese community, beechworth fine arts exhibition, donald fiddes -
Lara RSL Sub Branch
Cutlass chrome pair of, 1804 Chromed cutlass pair
Windlass, an ISO accredited sword maker and official supplier to MOD UK and the RN.good example of Navy cutlass swords2 x British Naval Cutlass 1804 - Chromed These highest quality blades are manufactured by Windlass, an ISO accredited sword maker and official supplier to MOD UK and the RN. Each blade is fold forged from a single billet of high-carbon steel, then hardened and tempered. Hand assembled and ground, each is then fully chrome plated for a mirror finish. 1. Blade near the hilt has on one side crossed sword and scabbard, obverse has a J. On the basket are N an arrow WD followed by an L. 2. Blade near the hilt has on one side crossed sword and scabbard, obverse has a inscribed 9 and stamped C6. On the basket are N an arrow WD followed by an L.navy, cutlass -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Razor Strop
This razor strop is made like a leather strap. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Double Swing Razor Strop. Use for honing razors.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strop, swing razor strop, barber's equipment, shaving equipment, personal accessory -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Kerosene Searchlight, Circa 1935
The Tilley lamp derives from John Tilley’s invention of the hydro-pneumatic blowpipe in 1813 in England. W. H. Tilley were manufacturing pressure lamps at their works in Stoke Newington in 1818, and Shoreditch, in the 1830s. The company moved to Brent Street in Hendon in 1915 during World War I, and started to work with paraffin (kerosene) as a fuel for the lamps. During World War I Tilley lamps were used by the British armed forces, and became so popular that Tilley became used as a generic name for a kerosene lamp in many parts of the world, in much the same way as Hoover is used for vacuum cleaners. During the 1920s the company had diversified into domestic lamps, and had expanded rapidly after orders from railway companies. After World War II fears about the poisonous effect of paraffin fumes, and widely available electricity, reduced demand for domestic use. The company moved from Hendon to Ireland in the early 1960s, finally settling in Belfast. The company moved back to England in 2000.A significant item demonstrating the early use of kerosene under pressure as a lighting medium. These types of lamps were made by a company whose products became synonymous with oil lamps generally. Lamps that were used commercially, domestically and by the armed forces of many countries during the first and second world wars.Tilley Searchlight Projector, or search lamp, made in Hendon, England 1935. Metal kerosene pressure search lamp, glass front, fixed mirror at back, wooden carry handles. Mounted on fuel tank with pressure pump. Lamp has 8 airflow holes in the bottom and a covered outlet on the top. Glass is in 3 pieces, fitting together to make flat circle there is a maker’s plate on the pressure tank. “TILLEY / SEARCHLIGHT PROJECTOR / MADE AT / HENDON, ENGLAND”, “256” handwritten in red on one wooden handle, “9” or “6” hand painted in white on top on light flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, tilley kerosene pressure searchlight, lighting, john tilley, pressure lamps -
Frankston RSL Sub Branch
Memorabilia - Level, Abney
Square gunsight telescope.An Abney level and clinometer, is an instrument used in surveying which consists of a fixed sighting tube, a movable spirit level that is connected to a pointing arm, and a protractor scale. An internal mirror allows the user to see the bubble in the level while sighting a distant target. It can be used as a hand-held instrument or mounted on a Jacob's staff for more precise measurement, and it is small enough to carry in a coat pocket -
The Cyril Kett Optometry Museum
Spectacles, Nupro, 1950 (estimated)
These night driving spectacles are in a shape of frame fashionable for ladies in the 1950's. The position of the lens silvering shows that these are designed for use in right hand drive cars. These were an expensive item in their day. Their excellent condition and original cardboard box suggest that they may be unsold new old stock.No other example of these Nupronite night driving spectacles is known in any Australian collection.Boxed Nupronite night driving spectacles. Yellow flat plano glass lenses with silver mirror finish in wearer's upper right field of each lens (to minimise glare of oncoming lights). Tortoise-shell look cat's eye frame. In original cardboard box.On box:'Nuprosal/ Nupronite/ "CAT'S EYES" NIGHT DRIVING SPECTACLES OUTSTANDING IN DESIGN AND QUALITY/ MANUFACTURED BY OPTICAL CRAFTSMEN/ MADE IN ENGLAND BY NUPRO LONDON/ MODEL:CAT'S EYES/ LENSES:SUPER/ COLOUR:AUTUMN LEAF'. Price added by hand '2 pound 17/6'spectacles, glare, night driving, eye protection -
National Communication Museum
Vehicle - Van, Volkswagen, 1972
This van was used in Western Australia by linesmen and for mail pickup between 1972 and 1991. When transferred to the collection, it was the very last surviving vehicle of its type owned by the company. Despite its age, the van is in excellent condition having been reconditioned in 1987.This Volkswagen Transporter, 2nd generation, is commonly known as a kombi van; named as such after the German word Kombinationskraftwagen, meaning multi-purpose vehicle. This van is believed to have been used by linesmen and for mail collection from 1972 to 1991 in Western Australia, before being donated to the, then, Telstra Collection. Conflicting accounts from John Moynihan, PMG Engineer and author, suggest the van was used by cable jointers from the 1960s. Owing to this unclear use, the van’s historical significance is low though provenance from the Postmaster General’s Department to Telecom, then Telstra, is established. In 1987, the vehicle was extensively reconditioned and some original parts were presumably replaced. It is not, however, in working order or in good condition; the body carries several areas of rust, rubber seals have suffered plasticiser migration, a mirror is missing and there are marks from use. The hand lettered “P.M.G.” inscription is indicative of a Postmaster General fleet vehicle, as is the red colour of the vehicle paint. Though it is in poor condition, the van’s aesthetic style is of some significance. The van is representative of the type of Volkswagen vehicle used by the Postmaster General’s Department and other private businesses and government branches of the era. The vehicle may, therefore, carry social significance for those that lived in this era, where their communication service provider travelled in a Volkswagen van. Indeed, Volkswagen vans were used into the Telecom era, as evidenced by an image (6681153) in the National Archives of Australia collection. While many of these vehicles may exist today, there are few to no examples which survive in museum collections. In 1966, the Post Office (Postmaster General’s Department) had the largest fleet in Australia, totalling nearly 11,000 vehicles (The Canberra Times, 29 September 1966, p. 34). Though in the late 1960s Volkswagen vehicles accounted for just over 500 of these vehicles, with the remainder represented by Ford, General Motors, Chrysler, and others, the multi-purpose nature of the van is significant as a metaphor for the multi-directional services of the Postmaster General’s Department. Archival images show a variety of models and adaptations including roof racks, bull bar and door configurations. Its conflicted history of use may in fact attest to the vehicles variety of application in the duties of the Postmaster General‘s Department.Red Volkswagen Kombi van with stencilled gold lettering on doors. Scratches on bumpers indicate duck-egg blue undercoat. Single sliding door on left side of vehicle body with secondary opening at rear with horizontally divided doors. Mirror missing on right front. Western Australia registration sticker in front windscreen..1: "PMG" .2: "ROYAL" .3-.4 "PMG" .5-.6: "MAIL" .7,.8: "ER" .9: "C OF A / ZEH 622"transport, kombi van, linesman van, postal van, postmaster general’s department -
Federation University Art Collection
Bookplate, 'Ex Libris John Gartner'
John Gartner was a fine printer and publisher, an author, a noted philatelist, and also collector of Australian banknotes and coins. He was born on 16 July 1914 and was largely self-educated, leaving school at fourteen for work following the death of his father. Gartner developed a strong interest in the history of typography and printing and was apprenticed at the Advocate where his father had been a linotype operator. Aged 17, Gartner bought a hand press and some fonts of type, and in 1937 acquired a platen press from which he set and printed his private press books, published under the imprint of The Hawthorn Press. Gartner had a strong collection of Australian bookplates. He also looked at the work of artists overseas and commissioned personal plates. He subsequently built an international collection with preference for artists who printed from wood. His initial searches were in Belgium and Holland.(http://www3.slv.vic.gov.au/latrobejournal/issue/latrobe-84/t1-g-t7.html) Robed, bearded figure holding tablet with Ex Libris engraved. Parchment with Latin print in background. Mirror image of J. Gartner printed beneath the parchment.J. Oliveira - 230 - 1990keith wingrove memorial trust, bookplate, australian bookplate design awards -
Tatura Irrigation & Wartime Camps Museum
Box - Tin, 1940 - 1946
Made and used by POW in camp 13Tin box with detached lid used to store bathroom requisites. Hand made in camp. Corners soldered. Mirror in box (see C0226)camp 13, murchison, tin box, hygiene, pow -
Geelong Gallery
Sculpture - Moonlight becomes you (silver fox), WEAVER, Louise, 2019
) fox: hand crocheted cotton, lamb�s wool synthetic yarns and reflective tape over high density foam, papier mache, wire, mirrored acrylic, cotton fabric and synthetic fabrics, synthetic polymer emulsion and glass beads; 2 5) various fibres; 6) base: enamel gloss paint on fibreglass -
National Wool Museum
Clothing - Dress, 1979
This dress was created by Jean Inglis for a competition of garments hosted by the Geelong Handweavers and Spinners Guild at a ski weekend in 1979. It was entered in the ‘evening wear’ category of hand spun and knitted garments. The Warp was commercially brought 2/24 wool. The Weft was hand spun black Corriedale wool. This wool was brought at a sale in Geelong and was hand dyed and spun by Jean. The patter is a ‘Ripple’ variation of a ‘Crackle’ weave completed on Jean’s own Dobby Loom (pictured). Long black dress stretching from the feet, reaching up to a hood at the neckline and down to the hands in the sleeve. The dress is black with a glossy silver pattern in the form of a band around the hood, hands and feet of the garment. In these bands is a wavy pattern of silver and black lines. There are multiple thick and thin lines of both the silver and black colours mirroring each other as the pattern stretches around the garment. wool, weaving, hand spun, corriedale -
Stawell Historical Society Inc
Photograph, Grampians Community Health Centre photo of Rev David Fotheringham
B/W copy from Grampians Community Health Centre Book Rev Fotheringham is wearing striped shirt and trousers with a belt. Holding a frame over a tub. Background is brickwork, mirror on top of cupboard, painting on right hand wall and clothes line. In foreground two pillow slips hanging onclothes line. Tea chests with items on top. -
National Wool Museum
Shears, 1900-1980
Shears belong to donor's father Maurice Dalton who was foreman of the show floor of the Dennys Lascekkes building until his retirement after 34 years at the building. Maurice used the shears in his work as a wool classer in rural Victoria and New South Wales. The shears are 14" N.1 Combination UTS hand shears made in Sheffield, England.A pair of metal blade shears. The blade is engraved with 'MADE IN ENGLAND / COMBINATION / U.T.S. / SHEFFIELD / N.1'. The ends of the two symmetrical grips loop around on themselves where they are riveted together to form a spring action.Mirrored. Lettering: MADE IN ENGLAND / COMBINATION / UTS / SHEFFIELD / N. 1 -
City of Ballarat
Artwork, other - Public Artwork - Temporary, George Goodnow, Mirror Maze by George Goodnow
“The artwork speaks to the historical architecture of this area, while exploring the idea of changing understanding of space. Space is bent, bulged and repeated, in this painting, like a mirror maze. In this way, it will inspire playfulness, curiosity and thought, by transforming the way we observe, move through and engage with public space”Artist George Goodnow has installed their artwork on the Annex Wall in Alfred Deakin Place from 30th November 2021 - 1 November 2022. George is a multidisciplinary artist and curator currently living in Naarm (Melbourne). Their work for the Annexe Wall will feature a fictional architectural arrangement of the Police Lane site. George utilises painting (designed through hand-drawn and digital processes) to adjust existing architecture, illuminating how spaces reflect, orientate and hold bodies. Recent work explores feelings of disorientation, binaries and queerness within suburban and urban landscapes. painted wall -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Paddle Strop
This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden paddle strop, (or raxor strop or cushion strop). Strop has two leather sides, numbered 1 and 2, on a slotted paddle. Marked on handle “Hamon”. Sides are numbered 1 and 2. Has two slits in body of strop. "Hamon" stamped on handle. "Hamon" stamped on handle. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden strop, paddle strop, strop, razor strop, shaving accessory, barber's equipment, personal grooming -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Paddle Strop
This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden strop, paddle strop design (sometimes called razor strop). Has leather attached to one side. Has two slits in body of strop. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, strop, paddle strop, personal effects, shaving equipment, razor strop, barber's equipment -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Paddle Strop
This razor strop is called a paddle strop. ABOUT STROPS Straight razors and cut throat razors were the major tools for shaving before the safety razor was invented in the 1880’s and even today specialty shaving shops still sell the straight razors. Along with the razor, the process of shaving would commonly involve lathering up shaving soap using a shaving brush with boar bristles. Men could own several razors and rotate them through the week and some shops sold the razors in a set, a razor for each day of the week. Straight razors could require stropping more than once during the shaving of a heavy beard, and stropping would also be performed at the end of each shave. Honing would only be performed two or three times a year, preserving the blade’s edge. A lot of skill was needed to hone and strop the blades of these early razors and the methods to do so were a large part of the curriculum in Barber colleges. The razor would be sharpened on a grinding wheel then honed on sharpening stone and finally finished using a strop. Straight edge razors would usually be sold unfinished and that process would be completed by the customer. A razor strop, usually made from leather, thick canvas or light timber, would be used to straighten and polish the straight razor for shaving. Strops could also be used to polish other blades such as knives, small metal tools and chisels. Sometimes an abrasive polishing compound is also used to give a mirror finish. Some strops, such as this one in our Collection, are designed to be used while hanging from a nail or peg, while others are hand held. To use the strop draw the spine of the blade down along the strop with the blade following, without putting any pressure on the blade. At the end of the stroke, rotate the blade over its spine then draw the spine along the strop again so that the edge moves away from the top. The finer grade of leather strap is used to give the final finish. Wooden strop, paddle strop design (sometimes called razor strop). Has leather attached to one side. Sides are numbered 1 and 2. Has two slits in body of strop. Stamped Hamon Paris France. "Hamon Paris France. "flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, paddle strop, strop, shaving equipment, personal effects, barber's equipment, personal grooming accessory -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Federation University Historical Collection
Object, Citizen Watch Co. Ltd, Hand Held Television - small backlight unit, 1986
CITIZEN 06TA: One of the most common Handheld-TVs with a "Solar Projection System" - A mirror reflects the picture from the LCD for viewing. Shown with and without the optional backlight-unit 92TA. 65 mm passive matrix LCD (European versions: 130 * 160 = 20,800 dots, US version: 146 * 160 = 23,360 dots), 190 grams with 4 AAA-size batteries. (http://www.guenthoer.de/e-mini.htm) Small grey analogue television. When the unit is open the image is reflected by a mirror. With the change to digital signals this unit would not work without a settop box. Serial No. 8C6 88053\model No 06TA-OG DC 6V - 0.3W Batt. Supp: 15v x 4 -
Halls Gap & Grampians Historical Society
Postcard - B/W
The location of the photo was in the vicinity of Myrtlebank, upper Halls Gap. The pool was called "Mirror Pool"Photo shows large pool of water bordered by the sandy banks of a creek (Fyans Creek).Hand written "A Happy New Year to all PS this is close to where we live Typed Post card, correspondence, Address only Kodak, Australia. 'Mirror Pool" written in ink in top, left border of photo.scenery -
Eltham District Historical Society Inc
Newspaper, Diamond Valley Mirror, Tuesday, August 31, 1965
Includes Newspaper article on page three "Living Memorial Is Trust's Gift To A Shire" a second clipping of which is also attached to cardboard for display purposes. Article includes text and photographs. Living Memorial is Trust's Gift To A Shire Bathed in bright sunshine and now at its best, the Memorial Garden of the Eltham War Memorial provided a perfect setting for the handing over of the Memorial to the people of Eltham last Saturday afternoon. Speaking for the War Memorial Trust, Mr E. P. Harmer, chairman paid tribute to the unselfishh service given by its members , some for more than 20 years. Special tribute was paid to the late Mrs Ada Lyon, a foundation member who, Mr Harmer said, made the Trust her life. A memorial plaque to Mrs Lyon was unveiled by foundation members Mr N. Kerr. Facilities. An infant welfare centre, a pre-school cente and a children's library are built within the memorial. Funds for the buildings were raised by the Trust and theh women's auxiliary. Accepting the Memorial on behalf of the people of the Shire, the Shire President, Cr. L. C. Docksey, assessed the value at beyond £50,000. To make the transaction legal, Cr. Docksey paid the sum of £1 to the Trust. Many foundation members of the Trust and councillors of the Shire were among the official guests. The Shire of Eltham Brass Band provided suitable background music for the ceremony and at. (remaining part of article is missing) Photo: Mrs C RAINS signs the agreement on behalf of the Eltham War Memorial Trust, transferring the Memorial to the Shire of Eltham, as Mr L. Virgo, secretary of the Trust, affixes the seal and Mr. E. P. Harmer, chairman, accepts payment of £1 from Cr. L. C. Docksey, Shire President. In the background are Mrs Harmer, Cr. T. Collins and Mr S. Addison. Accepting the Memorial on behalf of the people of the Shire was Cr. Docksey's last official duty as President. Separate article on the clipping includes the heading: President Rests in Comfort with a photograph and text: A Tribute to Cr. A. K.Lines, first President of the Shire of Diamond Valley, was paid by fellow councilors last Tuesday night. Acting on behalf of all members of the council, Cr. George Upton, in presenting Cr Lines with an armchair, expressed gratitude for his guidance and assistance to the new shire. Newspaper, 12 pages with four holes punched through near centre margin.eltham war memorial building,eltham war memorial trust,eltham pre-school,e. p. harmer,mrs ada lyon,mrs n. kerr,cr. l. c. docksey,shire of eltham brass band,cr. a. k. lines,diamond valley mirror,1965,cr t. collins,mr. s. addison -
Myrtleford and District Historical Society
Inclinometer, Early 20th Century
Provenance not clear. Leather case has 'MMBW' inscribed in black pen, indicating an association with Melbourne Metropolitan Board of Works. Item has been in the possession of Terry McCormack since 1972Hand held brass pocket inclonometer level, circa 1920. Leather case for safe storage. Semi circular graduated dial with 90 degree vernier scale with a small (20mm) magnifying glass to aid reading the vernier scale. Above the body, mounted at the rear of the graduated dial, is a spirit level tube which is tilted by finger movement to the milled hand wheel. The height to be determined is sighted through the instrument eyepiece and the bubble tube is tilted until the bubble, viewed in the mirror inside the sighting tube, is brought level with the graticule sighted at the top of the subject object. An angle is thus obtained and by measuring the distance on the ground to the object, trigonometry can be applied to determine the height of the object.Herga & Co. BRISBANE. Made in England