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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
... needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threads... needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threads ...This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Textile - Tray Cloth
... Hemstitching. 5cm border worked in needle point lace then another row... in needle point lace then another row of Italian Hemstitching ...White linen tray cloth with 6cm hem done in Italian Hemstitching. 5cm border worked in needle point lace then another row of Italian Hemstitching.handcrafts, needlework, manchester, table linen -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fichu, C 1860
... in 1851. It began as a needle lace but Lady Hamilton Chichester... Exhibition in London in 1851. It began as a needle lace but Lady ...Fichu is a term used replacing the kerchief or neckerchief and comes from the French. It was worn over the shoulders to preserve modesty for low necklines or to conceal the bodice hooks or laces used for closing. This hand-made Maltese lace fichu is exquisitely worked in silk. Judging by the photos provided it is quite large and would possible used to cover evening décolletage. It appears to be around 30cm in width and about 70cm in length and being silk would be quite warm for the lady wearing it and indicate social status and wealth. Maltese lace became very popular after being displayed at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. It began as a needle lace but Lady Hamilton Chichester imported lace makers from Genoa in the mid 1800s and converted the needle lace patterns to be worked on bobbins which made it quicker. The lace is worked on long thin lace pillows and usually includes the 8 pointed Maltese Cross in the pattern, it is made in narrow widths which are sewn together to make bigger pieces such as in this fichu. Another feature of Maltese lace is the “wheat ears” or in this case petals made of plaits or tallies. There is so much work in this piece as all of the flowers are worked so close together that they appear to be solid fabricThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenBobbin silk Maltese silk bobbin lace 6 petal tallies. Lace fichupackaged with note "Fichu Maltese Lace c 1865"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bobbin, maltese, silk, embroidery -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Textile - Two Lace Samples
... to a blue felt covered board. 2. Small cream piece of needle lace... piece of needle lace. Ten looped circles around edge with close ...Received anonymously by a teacher of the Lace Guild of Australia, Victorian Branch. Karolina Jeffers of Vermont. Donor told Karolina that the lace had belonged to her aunt. The aunt had worked in a dressmakers in Flinders Lane in the 1930s where she acquired the lace. Donor was in her 80s when she gave the lace to Karokina.1. Small white round piece of Irish crochet. Donegal. A three leaf clover in centre of piece with close pattern around it with sixteen three looped picots on edge. This piece is attached to a blue felt covered board. 2. Small cream piece of needle lace. Ten looped circles around edge with close worked centre piece. This piece is also attached to blue felt covered board.'Irish Crochet Donegal' Puerto Lumbretas Spainhandcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, lacemaking -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Brussels mixed lace, Late 19th Century
... Bobbin lace with needle made ground and fillings. Edging...A fine lace used as costume trimming. Bobbin lace ...A fine lace used as costume trimming.Bobbin lace with needle made ground and fillings. Edging. Sample. -
Coal Creek Community Park & Museum
Lace collars
... 9059.1 Victorian handmade needle run lace collar 9059.2... Korumburra gippsland Lace collars 9059.1 Victorian handmade needle ...9059.1 Victorian handmade needle run lace collar 9059.2 Lace collar with two press studs 9059.3 9059.4 9059.5 Light blue crocheted silk collar and cuffs. c1920s. 9059.6 Cream silk crocheted collar 9059.7 Hand crocheted Picot collar, c.1930s 9059.8 Cream silk crocheted collar, 1920s to 1930s 9059.9 French needle run lace collar 9059.10 Black silk faille collar, c. 1920s -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Rosaline lace, Late 19th Century
... Bobbin made lace with needle made flower centres. Use...Bobbin made lace with needle made flower centres. Use ...Bobbin made lace with needle made flower centres. Use: Costume trimmingBobbin lace edging. Sample -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Maltese Lace Chemisette, 1900s
... in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th... in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. This form of bobbin lace is made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. Maltese lace is worked as a continuous width tape lace on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow called a "Trajbu" and the Bobbins are called "Combini" . Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together. Lace made in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th century, when the economic depression in the islands nearly led to the extinction of lacemaking there. But in the mid 1800s, Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta. They used the old needle lace patterns and turned them into bobbin lace, which was quicker. It was not long after its introduction that the Maltese lace developed its own style from Genoese lace. Maltese lace was shown at The Great Exhibition of 1851 and it became popular in Britain. The style was copied by lacemakers in the English Midlands, and it was one of the sources for Bedfordshire lace. Characteristics of Maltese lace. Maltese lace usually has the following characteristics which are useful for identification. It is usually made from cream silk. There is often the 8 pointed Maltese cross as part of the pattern, worked in whole or cloth stitch.The pattern may also have closely worked leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. These are plump and rounded in shape, rather than the long narrow leaves of other types of bobbin lace. Camisole, made of silk thread Maltese bobbin lace that is constructed of lengths of lace forming two rectangles with a hole for the neck. Shows the characteristic Maltese cross and wheat ears. Fabric is made of tape lace joined togethercamisoles, maltese lace, bodices -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Textile - Lace Edging, 1920s
... in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th... together. Lace made in Malta was originally needle lace, from ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. This form of bobbin lace is made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. Maltese lace is worked as a continuous width tape lace on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow called a "Trajbu" and the Bobbins are called "Combini" . Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together. Lace made in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th century, when the economic depression in the islands nearly led to the extinction of lacemaking there. But in the mid 1800s, Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta. They used the old needle lace patterns and turned them into bobbin lace, which was quicker. It was not long after its introduction that the Maltese lace developed its own style from Genoese lace. Maltese lace was shown at The Great Exhibition of 1851 and it became popular in Britain. The style was copied by lacemakers in the English Midlands, and it was one of the sources for Bedfordshire lace. Maltese lace usually has the following characteristics which are useful for identification: It is usually made from cream silk. There is often the 8 pointed Maltese cross as part of the pattern, worked in whole or cloth stitch.The pattern may also have closely worked leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. These are plump and rounded in shape, rather than the long narrow leaves of other types of bobbin lace. Maltese lace edging. It shows the Wheat ears, characteristic of Maltese lacelace, maltese lace, lace tape -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - Collar Lace
... of Tape lace, possibly Battenburg lace, hand needle worked... needle worked for filling. Clothing Collar Lace ...A sailor shaped collar with square neckline, is made of Tape lace, possibly Battenburg lace, hand needle worked for filling.handcrafts, lacemaking -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Hamilton-Smith Broderie Anglaise Collar c. late 1800s - early 1900s
... that incorporates embroidery, cutwork and needle lace. This technique..., cutwork and needle lace. This technique originated in sixteenth ...The Hamilton-Smith collection was donated by the children of Grace Mary Hamilton-Smith nee Ellwood (1911-2004) and John Hamilton-Smith (1909-1984) who settled in Wodonga in the 1940s. The Ellwood family had lived in north-east Victoria since the late 1800s. Grace’s mother, Rosina Ellwood nee Smale, was the first teacher at Baranduda in 1888, and a foundation member of the C.W.A. Rosina and her husband Mark retired to Wodonga in 1934. Grace and John married at St. David’s Church, Albury in 1941. John was a grazier, and actively involved in Agricultural Societies. The collection contains significant items which reflect the local history of Wodonga, including handmade needlework, books, photographs, a wedding dress, maps, and material relating to the world wars. This collar was made using the broderie anglaise needlework technique that incorporates embroidery, cutwork and needle lace. This technique originated in sixteenth century Europe and became popular in England in the nineteenth century. In the nineteenth and early twentieth century prior to the mass production of clothing and textiles, needlework, alongside motherhood, was the defining work of women. Hand sewing and embroidery was central in the everyday lives and domestic roles of women.This item is unique, handmade and has a known owner. It forms part of a significant and representative historical collection which reflects the local history of Wodonga. It contributes to our understanding of social and family life in early twentieth century Wodonga, as well as providing interpretative capacity for themes including local history, social history and women’s history.A white cotton collar from the Edwardian period with broderie anglaise embroidery. hamilton-smith, hamilton-smith collection, needlework, clothing, sewing, embroidery, women, domestic, edwardian -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Textile - Haeusler Collection Handmade Broderie Anglaise Doily c.1920s
... needlework technique that incorporates embroidery, cutwork and needle..., cutwork and needle lace. This technique originated in sixteenth ...The Wodonga Historical Society collection comprises manuscripts, personal artefacts used by the Haeusler family on their farm in Wodonga, and a set of glass negatives which offer a unique visual snapshot of the domestic and social lives of the Haeusler family and local Wodonga community. The Haeusler family migrated from Prussia (Germany) to South Australia in the 1840s and 1850s, before purchasing 100 acres of Crown Land made available under the Victorian Lands Act 1862 (also known as ‘Duffy’s Land Act’) in 1866 in what is now Wodonga West. The Haeusler family were one of several German families to migrate from South Australia to Wodonga in the 1860s. The textiles in the Haeusler collection belonged to Ilma Margaret Ernestine Haeusler (née Tasker), born in 1900 in Tallangatta. These textiles were handmade by Ilma between 1919 and 1928 for use in the family home during her marriage to Louis Alfred Haeusler (b.1878). Ilma died in childbirth in 1928, leaving one surviving son, John Alfred Lyell (b.1922). This doily is one of several domestic objects in the Haeusler Collection that represent family and home life in early twentieth century Wodonga. It was made using the broderie anglaise needlework technique that incorporates embroidery, cutwork and needle lace. This technique originated in sixteenth century Europe and became popular in England in the nineteenth century. In the nineteenth and early twentieth century prior to the mass production of clothing and textiles, needlework, alongside motherhood, was the defining work of women. Hand sewing and embroidery was central in the everyday lives and domestic roles of women. The item is handmade and unique, with well documented provenance. It forms part of a significant and representative historical collection which reflects the local history of Wodonga. It contributes to our understanding of domestic and family life in early twentieth century Wodonga, as well as providing interpretative capacity for themes including local history, social history, and women’s history.A handmade white broderie anglaise doily c.1920sneedlework, textiles, sewing, handiwork, women's history, domestic, craft, family -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - WHITE COTTON LACE TRIMMED DRAWERS, 1890's - 1900
... White cotton, with fine crochet and needle woven lace..., with fine crochet and needle woven lace 9possibly machine made ...White cotton, with fine crochet and needle woven lace 9possibly machine made) and pink satin ribbon insertion - seven cm wide waistband fastens at the centre front with two 1.5cm covered buttons. A gathered centre panel fastens over the centre of the waistband with two 1.5cm covered buttons. Two darts at either side of centre back seam, and a slight - .5cm shaping at back waistband, provide shaping, and a smooth backline. No side seams, machine stitched, flat seams and darts.costume, female, white cotton, lace trimmed drawers -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply... of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... in length and work with over a thousand needles. Most machine... needles. Most machine embroidered laces are made using ...At 9cm in width this delicately patterned length of light lace trim seems ideally suited to trimming a baby’s christening gown or a cradle. This embroidered style of lace was rarely used on fashionable garments but more widely used on bed linen and undergarments and judging by the creases in the lace, it is possibly made of silk which would have made it very expensive. There were two types of embroidery machines, the earliest was the Hand Embroidery machine invented by Joshua Heilman in France in 1828. It makes a perfect copy of hand embroidery except that all of the pattern repeats are exactly the same. The second type and the most likely to have been used for this piece is the Schiffli Embroidery machine Invented by Isaac Groebli in 1865 in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The first machines were relatively small and could be operated by a couple of people, mostly women but by the beginning of the 21st century they could be up to 18 metres in length and work with over a thousand needles. Most machine embroidered laces are made using the Schiffli machine and Nottingham in England, Plauen in Germany and St. Gallen in Switzerland still produce a great deal of embroidered lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of wide lace trim with dots on net ground and selvage edge, other edge complex scallop. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Personal Effects, Lady's Silk Scarf & Voile Shawl, c1910
Early settlers in Moorabbin Shire were accomplished with needlework and crochet and made their own clothes and accessories. These Silk Scarf and Shawl are examples of the evening wear women made. Lady's Silk Scarf and Shawl are examples of the skilled needlework and craftwork of the women of the early settler families in Moorabbin Shire Lady's cream silk scarf with needle work flowers and loosely plaited fringed and a white voile shawl with lace edging. dressmaking, craftwork, lacework, needlework, early settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham,moorabbin shire, -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Clothing - Clothing,Girl's Blouse, lace,voile lining, c1900
This girl's white long sleeved blouse made from lace,voile and net and was probably made for a special occasion c1900. The delicate needlework flowers on the net insert on front of blouse and the over sleeves exhibit a high standard of skill. The fine pintucks on the front, collar and cuffs are finished by small white beads sewn around the edges. The eyes for the hooks on back opening seam are hand-sewn The women of the early settler families were skilled dressmakers and made the clothes for their families as they established market gardens and farms in Moorabbin Shire This girl's blouse made from lace,voile and net is an example of the high needle work skill of the women of the early settler families in Moorabbin Shire c1900 A girl's white,long sleeved, tulle blouse,with a high collar stiffened by 4 metal wires. The tulle has pintucks front and back with inserted decorated net panels and sleeves . The long lace outer sleeves have lace edging at the cuffs. The whole blouse is lined with tulle. .The high collar has horizontal pintucks and has small white beading along top and base. The lining tulle has horizontal pintucks and beading and lace edging on the cuffs of the inner sleeves. Hooks and eyes fasten the back of the blouse and ribbon is inserted at waist to produce a flared effect over hips clothing, brighton, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, pioneers, dressmaking,lacework, craftwork, tulle, net, market gardeners, early settlers, craftwork , bentleigh, moorabbin shire , dairy farms, fruit orchards -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Craftwork, knitting green cotton glove , needles, c1950
Craftwork, Crochet, Knitting Sewing were all popular in post World War 11 Moorabbin as the new settlers established their homes on the previous market garden estates.Craftwork, Crochet, Knitting Sewing were all popular in post World War 11 Moorabbin as the new settlers established their homes on the previous market garden estates.A partly knitted green cotton glove with 4 steel knitting needles wrapped in a silk scarf knitting, clothing, manufactured lace, dressmaking, blouses, theatrical props, craftwork, sequins, beading, early settlers, moorabbin shire, mechanics institute cheltenham, ormond choral society, postworld war 11 settlers, housing estates moorabbin 1950, bentleigh, ormond, moorabbin, cheltenham, drama societies, musical society cheltenham, clark judy, reed gladys, reed george -
City of Moorabbin Historical Society (Operating the Box Cottage Museum)
Clothing - Clothing, lace collar, c1880
This heavy, detachable lace collar is an example of the dressmaking and needle work skills of the women of the families of the pioneer settlers and market gardeners of the Moorabbin Shire c 1880 The Maggs family settled in the Brighton district in the late 1800,s. After the Dendy's Special Survey of the Brighton area in 1841 land allotments were rented or sold to pioneers who established market gardens, dairy farms, fruit gardens and vineyards. The pioneer settlers and market gardeners of Moorabbin Shire had to be self reliant and made their own clothing and utensils. This is one of many items that exhibit the skill and craftsmanship of the women in these familiesThis heavy, lace collar is detachable and consists of hand crochet work.clothing, crochetwork, pioneers, early settlers, dendy henry, maggs geoff, brighton, bentleigh, moorabbin, market gardeners, craft working, dressmakers -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
Although well-worn and somewhat damaged, this elegant lace collar is handmade and is a combination of some different styles. Bedfordshire lace, or simply Beds lace, and also known as Bedfordshire Maltese lace, was based on local lace forms traditionally produced in the English Midlands and on the Maltese lace that was developed in the early nineteenth century and on show at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. Maltese lace, and Bedfordshire lace, are forms of guipure, bobbin lace. The Maltese lace in particular gave the Bedfordshire lace its rounded leaf patterns and in this case its delicate brides and edging. The motifs appear to have been added and are most likely to be examples of Cluny lace which is of French origin and is a heavy plaited bobbin lace which is geometric in design often with radiating wheat ears. The motifs in this lace collar bear a very strong resemblance to Carrickmacross lace which is Irish in origin and is crafted by placing first the pattern, then fine muslin through which the pattern can be seen and then stitching around the pattern and finally cutting the excess muslin away. The pattern is decorated further with needle run stitches.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Maltese bobbin (NGV) Bedfordshire Cluny style hand made plaited lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, collar, garment, clothing, maltese, bobbin, handmade, plaited, bedfordshire cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This unusual lace is a chemical lace most likely produced on a Schiffli machine. Chemical lace which is sometimes referred to as Schiffli lace is a form of machine made lace. The design is embroidered on to a sacrificial fabric which has been treated to disintegrate or dissolve away leaving the delicate pattern seen here. This design is somewhat like a miniature Tudor design and is quite delicate and decorative. Schiffli machines came into use in the late 19th century and nowadays the lace is made on a multi head or multi needle Schiffli machine. The pattern is designed to form a series of interlocking threads that can stand alone when the sacrificial fabric has been removed. This lace would make an elegant edging to a collar or cuffs among many other uses.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Chemical lace in a miniature Tudor stylejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This trim is a delicate example of tatting which is a form of knotted lace. The lace is made by hand using a small shuttle which could be made of bone, tortoiseshell, steel or more recently, plastic. The shuttle is double sided with shell like sides which point towards each other at the ends to ease passing through loops of the larks head knot which is the main stitch used in tatting. The centre of the shuttle has a shaft with the thread wound onto it. Knotted laces have been made for several centuries but tatting is believed to have originated in the 18th century by the knotting of embroidery threads in preparation for couched work. This was done by ladies to relieve the monotony of long coach journeys sometimes using a shuttle for ease of manipulation. This knotted thread could be formed into circles and stitched together using a needle and thread. In the 1870s there were two major developments, first the introduction of picots which added daintiness to the work and secondly the use of a second shuttle with a separate thread to join the loops into a pattern of circles, squares, triangles and diamonds. Needle Tatting is another form of this craft where the work is done using a needle which the same width all along including the eye. This results in a different structure and slightly thicker end result than shuttle tatting as the needle must pass through the work. There is also a version called Cro-Tatting where the craft is created using a needle with a crochet hook on the end but again the hook must be the same diameter as the needleChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of tatted lace.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, tatting -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This trim is a delicate example of tatting which is a form of knotted lace. The lace is made by hand using a small shuttle which could be made of bone, tortoiseshell, steel or more recently, plastic. The shuttle is double sided with shell like sides which point towards each other at the ends to ease passing through loops of the larks head knot which is the main stitch used in tatting. The centre of the shuttle has a shaft with the thread wound onto it. Knotted laces have been made for several centuries but tatting is believed to have originated in the 18th century by the knotting of embroidery threads in preparation for couched work. This was done by ladies to relieve the monotony of long coach journeys sometimes using a shuttle for ease of manipulation. This knotted thread could be formed into circles and stitched together using a needle and thread. In the 1870s there were two major developments, first the introduction of picots which added daintiness to the work and secondly the use of a second shuttle with a separate thread to join the loops into a pattern of circles, squares, triangles and diamonds. Needle Tatting is another form of this craft where the work is done using a needle which the same width all along including the eye. This results in a different structure and slightly thicker end result than shuttle tatting as the needle must pass through the work. There is also a version called Cro-Tatting where the craft is created using a needle with a crochet hook on the end but again the hook must be the same diameter as the needle.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Delicate length of tatted lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, tatting -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fragment
This piece is a fragment of machine made net which would be used for needle embroidery. The first machine to produce a twisted net that would not unravel when cut was John Heathcoat’s Bobbin net or Twisted net machine invented in 1808. It was a twisted net that so closely resembled the handmade bobbin net that the two could scarcely be told apart. Heathcoat’s bobbinet machine is so ingeniously designed that the ones used today have suffered little alteration. The gauge of the mesh is calculated by the number of bobbins working per square inch of the machine’s width with the coarsest net being 4 point (or 4 bobbins per square inch) and the finest at 16 point.(cf the Leavers machine at 30 point) Assuming the paper clip to be approximately one inch long this fragment would appear to be towards the finest net that Heathcoat’s machine could produce.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine net for base of embroidery.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, fragment, machine, net, embroidery -
Mont De Lancey
Tablecloth, circa 1900
Worked by Miss Lily Sebire about 1900.White tablecloth in Renaissance work, also known as point lace. Braid is stitched onto a calico pattern, then linked by needle and thread in a variety of designs.tablecloths, embroidery