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Queenscliffe Maritime Museum
Domestic object - Crockery
Port Phillip Sea Pilots have been providing pilotage services to the ports of Melbourne, Geelong and Western Port since 1839.Important organisation around Queenscliff and Port PhillipPort Phillip Sea Pilots crockery: 3 soup bowls, side plates, cups and 2 dinner plates'Port Phillip Sea Pilots' on base of bowls and side plates. 'made expressly for: John Dynon and Sons, Melbourne. Vitrified: Globe Pottery Co, Ltd. Shelton England port phillip sea pilots -
Ararat Gallery TAMA
Functional object, Saru - koshi Miso, c. 1900s
‘The Art of the Japanese Package’ was an exhibition that toured to 10 Australian and 11 New Zealand public galleries in 1979 and 1980. The touring exhibition comprised 221 objects of traditional Japanese packaging which extended from ceramics, wood and paper to woven fibre containers. At the conclusion of the tour, The Japan Foundation and the Crafts Board of the Australia Council donated the vast majority of the exhibition to the Ararat Gallery for its permanent collection. Combining the natural qualities of bamboo, paper and straw with delicate craftsmanship, these unique objects express Japanese aesthetics as applied through fibre crafts. In Japan, the qualities and traits of natural materials are exploited rather than hidden. The texture of straw, the septa of bamboo are not concealed but lovingly incorporated into the whole. In 1979 Hideyuki Oka, curator of ‘The Art of the Japanese Package’ wrote: “In no way self-conscious or assertive, these wrappings have an artless and obedient air that greatly moves the modern viewer. They are whispered evidence of the Japanese ability to create beauty from the simplest products of nature. They also teach us that wisdom and feeling are especially important in packaging because these qualities, or the lack of them, are almost immediately apparent. What is the use of a package if it shows no feeling?” The descriptions of the featured objects were written by Hideyuki Oka, curator of ‘The Art of the Japanese Package’, 1979. Gift of the Japan-Australia Foundation and the Crafts Board of the Australia Council, 1981Baskets of closely woven bamboo are used to package miso (soybean paste) from the city of Aizu Wakamatsu. Ordinarily, miso is sold in containers of pottery or wood, but these packages are unusual for another reason. The soup made with miso must be strained through a bamboo sieve if it is not to be lumpy, and these baskets may be used as sieves. Here two baskets are bound together to make a package of uncommon charm. - Professor Hideyuki Oka, curator.japanese art, japanese packaging, tsutsumi, gift giving -
Stanley Athenaeum & Public Room
Functional object - Tea Cup, Clarice Cliff tea cup
Cream tea cup. Flutting around base. One chip at base. Ornamental handle.Clarice Cliff / Newport Pottery Co/ England Reg no 840076 -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - STONE JAR
CREAM COLOURED STONE JUG WITHOUT HANDLEDoulton & Coy Lambeth Pottery Londonpottery jug, doulton & coy -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - STONE JAR
CREAM COLOURED STONE JUG WITH HANDLENilpottery jug, stoneware -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - STONE JAR
CREAM COLOURED STONE JAR OR DEMIJOHNpottery jug, stoneware -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Functional object - Earthenware Bottle - Brown Brothers Milawa, 1970s - 1980s
In 1885 John Francis Brown first planted 10 acres of vines in Milawa, Victoria. Brown Brothers was founded in 1889 when the vines were ready to produce their first crop, as John hoped his brothers would join him in this new and promising venture. This did not happen but the name remained. Since 1899 Brown Brothers has grown into one of Australia’s largest family-owned wine businesses and now operates several vineyards in Victoria and Tasmania. These ceramic jars were used by Brown Brothers in the 1970s and 1980s to package Port, Muscat and Tokay. Fortified wines packaged in this manner would maintain their quality for decades as long as the wax seal was unbroken. Elischer Pottery was started in Sandringham, Melbourne Victoria in 1947 by well-known sculptor John (Johann Wolfgang) Elischer (1891-1966) and his son, also named John, (known as Wolly). John (Snr) was born in Vienna and trained at the Academy of Vienna from 1908 to 1911 and was an Associate of the Royal Academy Vienna. John (Senior) died in 1966 and the business was continued by his son John (Wolly), until 1987 when it was sold. Prior to that, at some time, he started making pieces the brand NCP. The business continues today as “Unique Ceramics” in Highett, Victoria. They continue to use the “Elischer” brand on some of their products.This jug is representative of an historic and continuing leading Australian Winemaker located in Northeast Victoria.An earthenware wine jug created for Brown Brothers Milawa Vineyard manufactured by John Elischer Pottery. The jug has a tradition loop handle. The bottom half of the jug is a traditional beige colour with a darker brown top section. The logo is imprinted in black and is covered in a clear glaze. The cork stopper is still intact although before being opened would have been sealed with wax.Company logo on one side: at top a central male image between the text "Founding Father /John F Brown. In a central oval around the name "Milawa", BROWN BROTHERS/ VINEYARD AUSTRALIA" On base: "97"brown brothers milawa, elischer pottery, northeast victorian wineries -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Haeusler Collection Child's Ceramic Bowl
The Wodonga Historical Society Haeusler Collection provides invaluable insight into life in late nineteenth and early twentieth century north east Victoria. The collection comprises manuscripts, personal artefacts used by the Haeusler family on their farm in Wodonga, and a set of glass negatives which offer a unique visual snapshot of the domestic and social lives of the Haeusler family and local Wodonga community. The Haeusler family migrated from Prussia (Germany) to South Australia in the 1840s and 1850s, before purchasing 100 acres of Crown Land made available under the Victorian Lands Act 1862 (also known as ‘Duffy’s Land Act’) in 1866 in what is now Wodonga West. The Haeusler family were one of several German families to migrate from South Australia to Wodonga in the 1860s. This bowl is one of several objects in the Haeusler Collection concerning early childhood that provide insight into family and home life in early twentieth century Wodonga. The Hauseler Collection bowl was manufactured by Empire Porcelain Co (Ltd) in Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire, England. Empire Porcelain Co (Ltd) was established in 1896 and manufactured bone china and earthenware until the company's closure in 1967. It can be dated to the first half of the twentieth century, likely c.1910s-1920s. Staffordshire became a centre for ceramic production in the 17th century due to the local availability of pottery materials including clay, salt, lead and clay. This item has well documented provenance and a known owner. It forms part of a significant and representative historical collection which reflects the local history of Wodonga. It contributes to our understanding of domestic and family life in early twentieth century Wodonga, as well as providing interpretative capacity for themes including local history, social history, and women’s history.Child's ceramic bowl with black print. The print in the centre of the bowl features a child with a wind instrument and three dancing cats. The outer rim of the bowl features a black circular print of roosters, dogs, cats, geese, rabbits and squirrels. The bottom of the bowl is embossed with details of manufacture. "ENGLAND" is embossed on bottom of the bowl via ceramic mould/ "EP.Co Stoke on Trent" is embossed on the bottom of the bowl in black via print. tableware, haeusler collection, children, ceramic, social history, domestic, family -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Bowl and cup set, Plateelbakkerij Zuid-Holland, c1923
... and cup set Domestic object Hand painted pottery cup and bowl ...The mark on these items indicate that they are Gouda pottery. Gouda is a style of Dutch pottery named after the city of Gouda, where it was historically manufactured. Gouda pottery gained worldwide prominence in the early 20th century and remains highly desirable to collectors today. Gouda pottery is diverse and visually distinctive in appearance, typically illustrated with colourful and highly decorated Art Nouveau or Art Deco designs. Pieces were mass produced but painted by hand by many individual artists. The dating mark system used and the small house represent the pottery of Plateelbakkerij Zuid Holland (PZH). This is a simplification of the "Lazarus-poort" (the Lazarus Gate). It stands for a building in the town of Gouda that dates back to 1609 where they assisted people who suffered from leprosy. The PZH produced pottery from as early as 1898 until 1965.This item is from Raper Collection donated to the Wodonga Historical Society by Mrs. Jean Raper. Hand painted pottery cup and bowl in art deco designs. These items are examples of Gouda pottery.Underneath cup : "LQ4/HENLY/A.R.J.T/HOLLAND" with 2 Vertical diamonds representing 1923 and house which is stylised image of the Gate of Lazurus. Underneath Bowl: "401/PEGGY/2 Vertical Diamonds 3 W v V/HOLLAND"domestic items, gouda pottery, ceramics -
Parks Victoria - Maldon State Battery
Box, tool
Used to store tools and other assorted items associated with Maldon State Battery..1 storage box with compartments and lid, painted green, made from wood, leather and are chains attatched from box to lid, trapeze shape, .3 grooves on top of box parallel to wooden supports on lid, latch, nails and bolts attatching wood and inner compartments, leather straps on innner lid and inside main compartment for holding tools, main compartment contains torn newspapers, severed cloths, pieces of rock, pipe peices made of metal and plastic, assortment of metal pieces, paint lids, green bucket with grease, food packaging, tap/valve, metal mesh, leather and plastic pieces, 2 keys/padlocks, nails, nuts, assortment of tools, wooden pieces, wooden handle for screwdriver, broken chair, chalk, pieces of ceramic (Bendigo pottery) , pocket handle with inscription, bottle lids, plastic container, rope/belt for machines, piece of belt, broken canvas strap, peices of broken dark brown glazed textured pottery, large circular threaded joins, large elboiw threaded elbow joins .2 upper left compartment containing brush head, sandpaper and assorted rusty metal objects .3 upper middle compartment containing rusty weighing hook, rusty bolt and scrap metal .4 upper right compartment containing broken tan pottery, rusty threaded T join, unknown green paper with inscription .5 lower left compartment containing white cotton waste, assorted circular rusty metal objects, assorted rusty nails and washers, orange lid with insciption, nut and bolt .6 lower left middle compartment containing unknown assorted metal objects, peice of broken clamp and felt .7 lower right middle compartment containing large rusty nuts and unknown rusty metal objects .8 lower right compartment containing assorted threaded rusty circular metal objects, rusty nut and bolt, metal pump part, rusty mobil oil tin 20litres, old newspaper scraps, -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Pottery Bowl, 1970s
... Mitcham melbourne Pottery Bowl Domestic object Bisque Pottery Bowl ...Made by Anne Seeney née Berens who lives in Fuller Street, Mitcham. Made in her own pottery. Co owner of Laburnam Gallery in the 1970s and 1980s. Clay was purchased from Walker Pottery Ceramic Supplier - Refer to oral history NP3398.Bisque Pottery Bowl with English style village on the rim. When bowl is filled with water, it looks like a moat around the village.B encircled by a single linedomestic items, ornaments / decorative -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Tea Cosy, c1920
Made for Glory Box in 1920s. Bought at church feteWhite linen tea cosy edge scalloped and embroidered in blue. Blue Willow pottery design embroidered on back and front of cosy.manchester, table linen -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Container - Ink Bottle, Royal Doulton, Late 19th to early-20th century
The Royal Doulton company began as a partnership between John Doulton, Martha Jones, and John Watt was an English ceramic and home accessories manufacturer founded in 1815. Operating originally in Vauxhall, London, later moving to Lambeth, in 1882 it opened a factory in Burslem, Stoke-on-Trent, in the centre of English pottery. The business was specialised in making salt-glazed stoneware articles, including utilitarian or decorative bottles, jugs and jars, much of it intended for inns and pubs. The backbone of the business was a wide range of utilitarian wares, mostly stonewares, including storage jars, tankards and the like, and later extending to pipes for drains, lavatories and other bathroom ceramics. From 1853 to 1902 its wares were marked Doulton & Co., then from 1902, when a royal warrant was given, Royal Doulton. The company always made some more decorative items, initially still mostly stoneware, and from the 1860s the firm made considerable efforts to get a reputation for design, in which it was largely successful, as one of the first British makers of art pottery. Initially, this was done through artistic stoneware's made in Lambeth, but in 1882 the firm bought a Burslem factory, which was mainly intended for making bone China table wares and decorative items. An early utilitarian stoneware item made by a well-known company that specialised in making salt-glazed items that later earned a reputation for making stoneware art objects. This ink well is historically significant as it represents the method of hand written communication that was still common up until the mid-20th century, before fountain pens and ballpoint pens took over in popularity and convenience.Ceramic, salt-glazed, mid-brown ink bottle. It has a small round mouth, rounded lip that extends past neck, wide shoulders, straight sides, flat base. Handmade. The surface is matt. there are flecks of dark brown in the clay. The bottle has marks on the side.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, writing equipment, writing accessory, office equipment, stationery, domestic, stoneware, clay, ceramic, pottery, inkwell, penny ink well, nib pen, dip pen, ink, hand writing, record keeping, household, business, vintage, blotting paper, ink bottle, dwarf ink, salt glazed -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Phillip Island and District Historical Society Inc.
Functional object, Vases by Eric Juckert and Henning Rathjen
Eric Juckert He worked as a potter and painter from around 1949 to 1992 in Victoria. His pottery was also sold by the department stores Myer and David Jones under the trade name “Jacqueline”.He then set up a studio at Point Road, Grossard Point, Ventnor on Phillip Island, in 1959 where he continued working there until 1992. Henning Alfred Rathjen (1903–1968) was one of the Australian-born artists who established a new pottery studio to cater for local demand and post-war innovations in art pottery. Rathjen established his pottery studio in Melbourne in 1948, producing quality slip-cast wares over the next 20 years. HistoricalCream, rough surfaced vase with oval pinched top and daisies in relief around top by Eric Juckert. Small, cream rough surfaced vase with top that flares outward with leaves and cutout sections by Henning Rathjen.Eric Juckert, Rathjen, pottery, vases, eric juckert, henning rathjen -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Decorative object - vase
Lane's pottery was established in Burwood in 1936 at 109 Highbury Rd. Burwood. In1962-1966 it was located at327 Warrigal Rd. Burwood. The company was known as Lane, Kemp, Willis Potteries p/l, but was trading under Lanes Potteries in 1940. The company produced household pottery including lamp bases and artware vases.Pink shell shaped vase. Yellow and silver paper sticker on front. 213 on base of vase.Lane Potteries Burwood Victoria. Sticker 213ornaments, ceramics -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Domestic object - Coffee Pot - Macs Hotel Portland, Victoria, 1950-1960
White china/ceramic lidded coffee pot, with Macs Hotel Portland logo (with belt motif), in blackBack: Underneath - Makers stamp in green 'Solian Ware Soho Pottery Ltd, Cobridge, England' -
Glenelg Shire Council Cultural Collection
Domestic object - Domestic Object Dish - Vitrified Globe Pottery Cobridge, England, n.d
... Domestic Object Dish - Vitrified Globe Pottery Cobridge... - Vitrified Globe Pottery Cobridge, England Domestic object Oval dish ...Oval dish,off white, glazed, with black 'Gordon Hotel Portland' and Chequer board design around inner rim.Front: Base - Made Expressly For John Dynon and Sons Melbourne Vitrified Globe Potter Co. LTD. Cobridge England -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Coffee Percolator, 1950s
Belonged to Elsa Ardern, mother of donor, well known potter who stared the Potter's Cottage Warrandyte. Elsa also taught pottery at the Arts Association.A metal (silver coloured) coffee percolator with glass removable dome in hinged lid. Black plastic handle. Metal plunger and 'beans' colander inside. BIRKO signature on black plastic base and a metal tag:|VOLTS/BIRKO/WATTS|240//400|CAT NO X5/|MADE BY BIRKO ELECTRIC PTY LTD|Submitted to electrical approvals board|Reference No. VC\0\X5See above descriptiondomestic items, cooking, food & drink consumption -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Earthenware Bottles - S. Mason Wodonga, c1870
This bottle was used as a form of advertising for the Wodonga Business of Samuel Mason. Samuel Mason was born at Bethnal Green, a suburb of London in 1824. He came to Australia via California, landing in Sydney in 1847. After a return to the California goldfields Samuel returned to Australia, arriving in Albury, NSW in 1855. He opened a bakery in Albury, and also commenced the manufacture of ginger beer for which he gained a reputation across Australia. Mr Mason continued in business in Albury for some time, but he established himself in Wodonga c1857, continuing a branch business in Albury. Twice a month in the early days Mr Mason walked to Beechworth for the purpose of transacting business. Occasionally he was summoned to attend the Beechworth courts as a juror. In 1901 Mr Mason retired from business, handing over the reins to his only son, Mr Samuel Mason Jr. who continued the aerated water business for some years. In about 1920 the business changed hands, being take over by E. Bartel. Samuel Mason Sr. died on 6 April 1908 and is buried in Wodonga. Mr. Mason Jr. was a prominent townsman. For some years he was a councillor of the Town Riding of the Wodonga Shire Council. He was also the first chairman of the Wodonga Water Trust in 1908. Samuel Mason Jr. moved to Melbourne in March 1920, primarily due to failing health. He died on 6 February 1929 and was interred in Melbourne.This bottle has strong local significance as it is representative of one of the earliest businesses established in Wodonga in the 1850s which operated until c1920. The business continued after 1920 under different ownership and names.2 earthenware pottery bottles manufactured by Bendigo Pottery and imprinted with the business brand of S. Mason, Wodonga. One bottle still contains a marble as part of the Codd sealing system to prevent gas from the ginger beer seeping out and the drink going flat. The bottles Within two elliptical circles are painted (in freehand) "S. MASON" in the top half and "WODONGA" in the bottom half. These are separated by an asterisk on both sides. A large "S" overlaid by a similarly large "M" is within the inner circle. 2nd bottle also includes "BREWED GINGER BEER" above the brand. At bottom of bottle 1 "PINNACLE BRAND" At bottom of bottle 2 in an oval shape: "THE BENDIGO POTTERY CO./ EPSOM/BENDIGO"s. mason wodonga, aerated drinks, bendigo pottery -
Box Hill Historical Society
Book, Gabriel, Juri, Victoriana, 1969
This book shows examples of Victorian objects. It covers furniture, silver, porcelain, pottery, glass, jewellery, embroidery and needlework, metalwork, bric-a-brac and includes a list of books to read.A5 - 160p; illustrated.non-fictionThis book shows examples of Victorian objects. It covers furniture, silver, porcelain, pottery, glass, jewellery, embroidery and needlework, metalwork, bric-a-brac and includes a list of books to read. furniture, crafts, victorian era, pottery, jewellery, needlework -
Mont De Lancey
Domestic object - Butter Plate, Burleigh ware, c 1930's
Burleigh Ware have been making their products since 1851 at Middleport Pottery in Stoke-on-Trent, England.A blue and white Willow Pattern scalloped edged butter plate with the traditional oriental landscape scene on the front with a highly decorative blue and white floral raised edge and fine gold line trim around the outer edge.'Burleigh Ware, willow, made in England, 1'. This is stamped on the base of the plate on a blue leaf pattern.side plates, serving plate, butter plates -
Buninyong Visitor Information Centre
Container - Ceramic bottle, K. Evans Potteries of Nottingham, Brown glazed stoneware bottle
Made in Nottingham, England by K. Evans. K. Evans Potteries in Nottingham has an intriguing history. During the construction of the Manchester, Sheffield & Lincolnshire Railway Company’s new London line (now known as the Great Central) through Nottingham, several objects of antiquarian interest were discovered. Among these treasures was an ancient pottery kiln, buried for centuries beneath the soft yellow Bunter sandstone rock that forms a significant part of the city’s foundation. The excavation took place near the point where Parliament Street intersects the railway, at a depth of ten to twelve feet below the original surface. The credit for rescuing many of these pottery fragments from destruction goes to Mr. C. B. Wright, of the late firm I. & I. C. Wright & Co., Bankers. His dedication and ingenuity allowed him to piece together broken parts, sometimes assembling as many as thirty or forty fragments to form a single complete specimen. These pottery pieces provide a fascinating glimpse into the past. Here are some details about the pottery found at K. Evans Potteries: Material: The pottery is made of coarse, reddish-brown clay. Construction: Evidence suggests that the potter’s wheel was used in their creation. Ornamentation: The vessels lack decorative patterns, except for indented or grooved handles. These handles exhibit a crude attempt at foliation, with the potter’s thumb leaving its mark. Function: The pottery likely served practical purposes, such as carrying water, ale, mead, or wine. Stew jars and drinking vessels were also part of this collection. This discovery remains almost unique, and its age continues to intrigue local antiquaries. While theories about its origin are scarce, the K. Evans Potteries offer a fascinating glimpse into Nottingham’s ancient craftsmanship. Cylindrical brown pottery jar (Bottle) with broken neck section. Uneven and work appearance of glazed surface.'... Stone bottles. K. Evans. ...Potteries of Nottingham'ceramics, pottery, bottles -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Decorative object - Ornament, ca. 19th century
This fine white unglazed porcelain figurine is one of six donated together. The bisque material was easy to carve and allowed fine detail. Figurine ornaments were popular for table decorations between the mid-18th to early 19th centuries. This ornament was likely made in Germany, and German manufacturers began to use bisque material to make realistic faces for dolls in the 1850s.The set of six bisque figurines is representative of popular table decorations during the 19th and early 20th centuries.Fine unglazed white porcelain ornament, hollow inside. It is carved to represent a peasant girl and goat with a vase shaped like a tree stump in the background. The ornament has remnants of gold, red, brown and green paint. There is an inscription on the base."3943:warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, ornament, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, bisque, china ornament, white china ornament, german, germany, porcelain, unglazed porcelain, 19th century, 18th century, european ornament, pottery, unglazed pottery, domestic ornament, decoration, table decoration, girl and goat, vase -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Decorative object - Ornament, ca. 19th century
This fine white unglazed porcelain figurine is one of six donated together, and one of a pair of two children carrying baskets on thei. The bisque material was easy to carve and allowed fine detail. Figurine ornaments were popular for table decorations between the mid-18th to early 19th centuries. This ornament was made in Germany, and German manufacturers began to use bisque material to make realistic faces for dolls in the 1850s.The set of six bisque figurines is representative of popular table decorations during the 19th and early 20th centuries.Fine unglazed white porcelain ornament, carved to represent a girl holding a basket on her back. One of a pair, the other being a boy holding a basket on his back. The hollow basket is a vase. It was made in Germany. "1084" "105" "GERMANY"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, bisque, china ornament, white china ornament, german, porcelain, unglazed porcelain, 19th century, 18th century, european ornament, pottery, unglazed pottery, domestic ornament, decoration, table decoration, germany, girl with basket, vase -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Decorative object - Ornament, ca. 19th century
This fine white unglazed porcelain figurine is one of six donated together. The bisque material was easy to carve and allowed fine detail. Figurine ornaments were popular for table decorations between the mid-18th to early 19th centuries. This ornament was likely made in Germany, and German manufacturers began to use bisque material to make realistic faces for dolls in the 1850s.The set of six bisque figurines is representative of popular table decorations during the 19th and early 20th centuries.Figurine; unglazed white porcelain ornament, hollow inside. It is carved to represent an angel with two children, a boy and a girl. The surface is decorated with tiny gold balls and the angel wears a gold tiara. There are remnants of gold, orange, green and brown paint. No 1914. "1914"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, bisque, china ornament, white china ornament, german, porcelain, unglazed porcelain, 19th century, 18th century, european ornament, pottery, unglazed pottery, domestic ornament, decoration, table decoration, figurine, angel figurine, germany, angel with children -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Decorative object - Ornament, ca. 19th century
This fine white glazed porcelain figurine is one of six donated together. The bisque material was easy to carve and allowed fine detail. Figurine ornaments were popular for table decorations between the mid-18th to early 19th centuries. This ornament was likely made in Germany, and German manufacturers began to use bisque material to make realistic faces for dolls in the 1850s.The set of six bisque figurines is representative of popular table decorations during the 19th and early 20th centuries.Fine glazed white porcelain ornament, carved to represent three children sitting on three brick fence pillars. There are gold highlights on the surface. The hats on the children are vases. An inscription is on the base of the centre pillar."6946"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, bisque, china ornament, white china ornament, german, germany, porcelain, unglazed porcelain, 19th century, 18th century, european ornament, pottery, unglazed pottery, domestic ornament, decoration, table decoration, children on a fence, vase, candle holder