The sample of steel from which the S.S. Julia Percy’s boiler was made has been tested, according to the attached label. The test involved heating the steel to blood red temperature (or dark red colour) then dipping it into water and bending it when it was cold. A “very severe test for quality” was written on the ticket by T.H. Osborne. (Mr Thomas Hamilton Osborne was the secretary for the Western Steam Navigation Co, established in Warrnambool in 1886. The company’s office was on the corner of Timor and Liebig Streets in Warrnambool and its north-western wall is now part of the current Warrnambool Regional Art Gallery. ) Cold bending of steel in a press or through rollers is the typical method of curving steel for construction. The steel needs to be manufactured in such a way that it is strong enough yet still flexible enough not to crack when bent or rolled. The boiler on the Julia Percy could have been a Scotch Boiler, a design introduced in the 1870’s and still being used today. This design was more robust that previous boilers, generating higher working steam pressures. The design incorporate greater ability to roll iron plates, leading to greater strength, thicker plating and fewer riveted joints. They were originally made of iron then later incorporated steel sections until they were entirely constructed of steel. Many examples of this type of boiler can be found on wreck sites. Shipping was the cheapest and most practical means of carrying produce and goods during the period 1840-1890. Regular domestic steamer services commenced in the Warrnambool district in the late 1850’s and by 1870 the passenger trade was booming. Produce was loaded from the jetty into ‘lighters’ (small boats), which took it to the ships at anchorage in the bay. Passengers were taken to the ship’s side then climbed aboard up ladders or gangways. The coming of the railway in October 1889 meant the gradual decline and end of the steam shipping era. Originally the ship was known as the SS Julia Percy and was later renamed as the Leeuwin. She was an iron passenger-cargo steam ship built in Glasgow by Thomas Wingate for the Warrnambool Steam Packet Company, which commissioned the ship for the steamship trade in Victoria’s western district. She was first registered in Warrnambool, Victoria in 1876. At one point in time the Julia Percy would sail from Warrnambool to Melbourne every Friday and return from Melbourne to Warrnambool every Tuesday. The cost of a return ticket for a Saloon Fare was £1.0.0. She would sail “if practical and weather permitting”. The Julia Percy changed hands several times. Her next owner was the Western Steam Navigaiton Co of Melbourne (1887). It was the manager of this company, Mr. T.H. Osborne, who tagged ths steel sample above. Melbourne Steamship Co became the next owners (1890), followed by William Howard Smith and Sons (1901) for use in Queensland coastal trades, then she was bought by George Turnbull in 1903 and used for local mail contract in Western Australia. She was sold to the Melbourne Steamship Company Ltd. (1906) and re-named the Leeuwi but continued in her Western Australian coastal run. She was converted into a coal hulk in Melbourne in 1910 as a result of damaged caused when she was driven against the jetty at Dongara during a gale. The ship was eventually dismantled and scuttled in Bass Strait on 28 December 1934. The steel sample is significant for its association with the wreck of the Leeuwin (Julia Percy), which is on the Victorian Heritage Register. It is historically significant for being a rare artefact that has potential to interpret aspects of western Victoria’s 19th century steamship trade and Victorian cultural history, including the testing and manufacturing process associated with steam power. Leeuwin is listed on the Victorian heritage Register as being historically significant ‘as one of only four wrecks of steamships in Victorian waters associated with the western district of Victoria’s coastal steamship trade. Her registered number is VHR S413. A sample of the steel from which the boiler of the "SS Julia Percy" (later named Leeuwin) was made. The piece of steel is a ‘C’ shape with the ends almost meeting. A luggage ticket is tied onto the steel and has an inscription on it. The steel is rusty.Ticket with typed information “Steel of which the Boiler of the “Julia Percy” (Warrnambool Steam Navigation Co) was made. TEST: Made Blood hot or Dark Red then dipped into water and bent cold. A very severe test for quality T.H. Osborne. Below these words is the hand written inscription in black “FM 151 / 9.75” julia percy, leeuwin, steel, boiler, steam ship, metal testing, western steam navigation co., flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, t.h. osborne

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

This medal was presented by the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners' Royal Benevolent Society and was posthumously awarded to Captain John Coffey’s family for his efforts at saving life at sea, in 1882. Captain Coffey lost his life in this attempt. The shipwreck occurred between Australia and England. The included letter was written by the donor, who is the grandson of John Coffey. It is interesting that the medal and note were packaged in a small tin whose original purpose was to present a wedding cake gift to guests. The container is decorated with wedding bells pressed into the lid. Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners’ Royal Benevolent Society: - The Shipwrecked Mariners (Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners’ Royal Benevolent Society) is a national charity established in 1839. It is run by a network of volunteers in the UK and Ireland. The organisation assists former mariners, their dependants and their families. John Rye and his servant Charles-Gee Jones, of Bath, UK, encouraged its formation after a severe storm caused the loss of life from the ‘Clovelly’ fishing fleet in November 1838. The Society was incorporated by an Act of Parliament in 1850. The Society’s flag is the St George’s Cross, a red cross on a white background and a gold crown in the centre, with the letters S F M S displayed, one in each quadrant. Nominations are made by members each year of those who have performed outstanding acts of bravery in helping those in peril in the sea. The inscription on the reverse "PRESENTED FOR HEROIC EXERTIONS IN SAVING LIFE FROM DROWNING / JOB XXIX 13" refers to a verse in the Bible, which in the King James version reads "The blessing of him that was ready to perish came upon me; and I caused the widow's eart to sing for joy."This is the only medal in our collection awarded from the Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariners' Royal Benevolent Society. Medal, silver with blue ribbon. The obverse of the medal has images of the British flag, a crown flag with "S.F.", a portrait of a man, a shipwreck, a cannon and anchor, a man with a telescope, and two people attending a body on the shore. The reverse of the medal has text. The medal clasp depicts a fleur de lies between two fish. The medal maker is Stokes. The metal was donated in a tin container and included a letter. The medal was presented posthumously to the family of Captain John Coffey for his efforts at saving life at sea, in 1882. It has an accompanying letter and container.On rim "CAPTAIN JOHN COFFEY - 1882" Obverse "SHIPWRECKED FISHERMEN AND MARINERS ROYAL BENEVOLENT SOCIETY" and "ESTAB AD 1839 INCOd BY ACT OF PARLt 1850" Reverse "PRESENTED FOR HEROIC EXERTIONS IN SAVING LIFE FROM DROWNING / JOB XXIX 13" and "ENGLAND EXPECTS EVERY MAN WILL DO HIS DUTY" The tin box has "MEDAL" handwritten in black.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, medal, captain john coffey, john coffey, numismatics, hero, saving lives, shipwrecked fishermen and mariners’ royal benevolent society, sfms, shipwrecked mariners' society

By the later 1800s the dirt roads in the then out-lying areas of the City of Moorabbin became dangerous, and almost impassable due to huge potholes and muddy swampy areas. The heavily laden market gardener’s carts regularly broke axles and wheels, and horses foundered on their way to the Melbourne markets. Even worse, the heavier “iron maidens”, carrying their malodorous loads of sewage from Melbourne’s inner suburbs for dumping in the outlying areas of the City of Moorabbin, also got bogged in the mire. It was decided that a practical solution to this problem was to install a metal plateway on the side of the problematic roads. In about 1887 the Moorabbin Shire Centre Road, in the Brighton East area, two parallel metal rails were installed so that the wheels of carts could run along smoothly, the horse travelled in the filled, middle area between the rails. Point Nepean Road plateway was removed in 1930 and Centre Dandenong Road plateway was removed in 1934-35. The worn plateway along Centre Road, East Brighton (now known as Bentleigh), was gradually taken up in several pieces, commencing in the the1920s, when its condition deteriorated and it caused a hazard to bikes, pedestrians, motor-cycles and the few early cars. The early steel plateway, constructed by David Munro, and opened on 23rd March 1885 by Thomas Bent, was built along Nepean Highway, between Asling St. and Bay St. The Point Nepean Track was subsequently extended into Moorabbin with branches along Centre, Cumins, South, Wickham, and Keys Roads, the total length was 13 miles. In 1908-1909 plates were laid along Centre Dandenong Road to Ross Street Bentleigh This innovative solution proved successful and was used until gradually the main roads were upgraded, and motorised vehicles started to appear. Two parallel metal rails were installed in the right hand side of a few main roads in the Shire of Moorabbin so that the wheels of heavily-loaded market gardener's carts on their way to markets in Melbourne could run along smoothly. The horse pulling the carts travelled in the filled, middle area between the rails. The Steel Plateway was constructed by David Munro, and opened on 23rd March 1885 by Thomas Bent. The wheelway first only ran along Nepean Highway, but it soon extended from Centre Dandenong Road, along Nepean road to its junction with Chapel Street, St Kilda. Later branch lines were built along Centre Road, Bentleigh as far as Warrigal Road and, according to early photographs, along Wickham Road Moorabbin as well. This innovative solution proved successful and was used until gradually the main roads were upgraded, and motorised vehicles started to appear. There was a problem with the wheelway : there was only a single set of rails and this was established on the right-hand side of the Nepean Road, travelling towards the city. Traffic FROM the city travelled on the correct or left-hand side of the road. The exception to this rule was the malodorous iron-clads, heavily riveted iron carts, generally travelling in convoy, carrying several tons of human effluent out of Melbourne to be trenched-in in the sandy soil of the Moorabbin district. Moorabbin City Council donated and installed a small section of Plateway at Box Cottage Museum in 1984melbourne, brighton, moorabbin, roads, plateway, wheelway, transport, st kilda, bent thomas, munro david, market gardens, steelway, carts horse-drawn, iron maidens, point nepean track

Index, bib, ill, maps, p.640.non-fictionFew years can justly be said to have transformed the earth: 1914 did. In July that year, Germany, Austria-Hungary, Russia, Britain and France were poised to plunge the world into a war that would kill or wound 37 million people, tear down the fabric of society, uproot ancient political systems and set the course for the bloodiest century in human history. In the longer run, the events of 1914 set the world on the path toward the Russian Revolution, the Treaty of Versailles, the rise of Nazism and the Cold War. In 1914: The Year the World Ended, award-winning historian Paul Ham tells the story of the outbreak of the Great War from German, British, French, Austria-Hungarian, Russian and Serbian perspectives.world war 1914 - 1918 - history, world war 1914-1918 - causes

The mysterious spots were caused by mosquito bites, due to the stagnant water from the flood. They had run out of medicines, bandages, everything, with no money to buy more. The Dogtor discovered a gold nugget in his bag from the mines and told nurse Sister Spaniel to take it to the bank to change it for money. Life then returned to normal at Hilltop Hospital. Then one day, a big loud silver helicopter appeared in the sky with a notice: WOOMERA RANGE. V.I.P. TOP SECRET. SPACE SURVEY. ROCKET DIVISION.The Flying Dogtor" series was broadcast on Australian Television Network (later becoming the Seven Network) between February and April 1964 (see item D254 for schedule).Typewritten, carbon copy, foolscap, 2 pagesPage 1: handwritten 'CUT' on left hand side.the flying dogtor, robin boyd, crawford productions, manuscript

T-shirt - Bluegum.com.au, size 14

Built by the celebrated shipbuilder Donald McKay, the Lightning was the first clipper built in the USA for a British firm. In 1862 on a return trip to Liverpool, it struck an uncharted rock in a rip. No water entered the vessel but on arrival a rock 6 feet long was found sticking through its timbers and beginning to work loose. Under Capt. 'Bully' Forbes, the Lightning made its first voyage to Australia in 77 days, and on its return voyage, made it in a record 64 days. The Lightning's entire life was spent on the Australian run carrying immigrants and cargo. It had the job of carrying free of charge immigrants and early consignments of introduced animals, including rabbits, which were sent to Thomas Austin of Barwon Park, Winchelsea. The wreck of ‘Lightning’ caused by fire was the worst shipping calamity in Geelong's history. Geelong's Centenary celebrations included a re-enactment of the burning of ‘Lightning’.Framed picture of ‘Lightning’ which is a ship particularly historic to the region of Geelong because of its story, the worst shipping calamity in Geelong's history.Framed Picture of ship "Lightning"lightning, geelong, ship wreck

Environmental approach to preserving Kew Court House 4 June 2010 Paint stripping from older buildings can be a hazardous task. The City of Boroondara has found an environmentally sustainable solution for the works at local heritage icon, the Kew Police Station and Court House. Council used an organic based paint stripping alternative as part of the repairs to the rendering on the building facade. Over nearly three months, the damaged and unsound render was removed, the paint was stripped and the render was repainted. Usually, paint is removed via high pressure water cleaning or sandblasting. This is a harsh method and involves combining extreme high amounts of pressure, water and sand and is highly toxic. It also creates high noise levels. In this 'green' project, Council used a soy bean paint stripper. The process uses a paste-like substance, which is highly effective, non toxic and biodegradable, and applied by hand. Initially, a bandage is applied (much like a leg waxing strip) over the top of paste. It is allowed to dry and then the bandage is stripped off. Noise was kept to a minimum by using the paint stripping alternative. Scrapings and bandages are then bagged and sent to the tip as landfill, so it does not end up in our water supply. The waste and debris don’t run-off into drains, and the bags and bi-products are biodegradable. Studley Ward Councillor Phillip Healey explained that soy bean paint removal is not greatly used in Melbourne or the local government sector. "We know of special cases where it has been used, such as high profile projects like Sydney Harbour Bridge, but Boroondara is one of the first in Victoria to employ this natural plant-based paint-stripping treatment to a large-scale building," Cr Healey said. "What this means is that no harmful substances were used and no injury was caused, soy paint removal also preserves, protects and restores the heritage integrity and decorative stone masonry features of the historic building. "This is a terrific example of our commitment to 'enhancing the environment' which is one of our key directions in the 2010–15 Council Plan." The restoration of the Kew Court House and Police Station is expected to be completed in the year ahead. Council purchased the heritage building in 2007 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building required extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome, and the renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. Heritage Victoria helped fund the cost of the roof repairs with a grant of $250,000, along with the Australian Government contributing $330,000 through its Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. Restoration Underway Concept plans for a new performance and exhibition space at the Kew Court House and Police Station have been developed by the City of Boroondara. Two years ago, Council Purchased the Kew Court House and Police Station from the State Government for $825,000 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building requires extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome. The renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. The restoration has been assisted with a Federal Government grant of $330,000 under the Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. In 2008, Council was also successful in obtaining a Heritage Victoria Grant of $250,000 towards the costs of the roof repairs. Having satisfied the necessary permit requirements, works are about to commence using slate of a similar quality to the original. The City of Boroondara would like to thank all residents and businesses who have contributed to the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal which has raised $650,000. Special thanks go to a private donor who donated $250,000 and the Kew Senior Citizens Club which contributed $50,000. NEWS FLASH 14th March “Council moves to provide certainty for the restoration of the courthouse”. In a historic meeting last night 13th March 07 at Boroondara Council voted overwhelmingly to complete the purchase of the Kew Court House. The partnership continues between the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and the Council to see this project through. The project now has the overwhelming support of Council. “It is no longer about “if” it is about “when” the doors will re open” said Prof Peter McIntyre. With the property secured the fundraising can now be completed without the encumbrances and we know the restoration will be undertaken as the funds become available from the appeal. Work can commence as soon as significant fund raising is achieved. “The community, philanthropists and corporations can now enter this project with certainty. 7th March At the Council meeting on 5th March, following many hours of debate a motion was passed by 5 to 4 vote to purchase the Kew Court House and Police Station outright. As of 7th March Cr Dick Menting lodged a rescission notice. This means that there was another Council meeting at 6pm, Tuesday 13th March at Council Chambers. MEDIA RELEASE - Kew, 3rd December 2006 APPEAL LAUNCHED TO SAVE A NATIONAL TREASURE On the morning of Saturday 18th. November 2006 the people of Kew were aroused by the triumphant sound of the Boroondara Brass which had assembled outside the former Kew Police Station. After four long years of neglect, the precinct was being heralded back to life, and what a heartwarming sound it was for all those early shoppers who gathered to hear Cr. Phillip Healey introduce Patrons and supporters of the Save the Court House campaign. Following the speeches, the "Thermometer" was unveiled and the Appeal was formally under way. The various committees have worked very hard during these past weeks. The Kew Court House Arts Association Inc. has been formed under the leadership of Graeme McCoubrie. This organization brings all the amateur theatre groups in the City of Boroondara together with a view to providing them with a permanent performing space within the former Court House. As well as intimate theatre, there will be provision for the staging of instrumental and choral performances before an audience of 40 to 50 people. The Police Station will compliment the function of the Court House by providing a venue for artist groups to exhibit their work, for the Historical Societies of Boroondara to meet, and for study groups to meet, for activities such as play and poetry readings. It will be a Hub for the Arts in Kew. Of course none of this can happen unless the money to pay for restoration of the buildings is raised, and we only have until March 2007 in which to do this. The City of Boroondara, Kew Historical Society and the East Kew Community Bank are working together as a team to make this dream a reality, but WE NEED YOUR HELP. This is a fantastic one-off opportunity, and it must not be wasted. Donations to the Appeal can be made through the Kew East Kew Community Bank or any branch of the Bendigo Bank, or through the Kew Historical Society Inc., P.O. Box 175 Kew Vic 3101. All donations over $2 are tax deductible through the Community Enterprise Foundation. End Media Release Kew Courthouse future looks bright The State Government has accepted an offer from the local government of Boroondara to purchase the former Kew Courthouse and Police Station, Minister for Finance John Lenders said today. In a joint statement with the Mayor of Boroondara, Councillor Jack Wegman, Mr Lenders said he was pleased that agreement had been reached and the contract of sale document finalised. “I welcome the Council making this step towards purchasing this property after recent negotiations,” Mr Lenders said. “The settlement date for the purchase of the property is March 2007. The State government sold the property to Council at a reduced cost of $825,000 for community use. The full value of the buildings on the commercial marketplace was estimated to be about $2million,” he said. Cr Wegman said the Contract of Sale provides that if the funds cannot be raised to restore the property for use as community buildings then they will be returned to the State government. In relation to this additional funding to restore and modernise the buildings, Council and the community will work together over the next eight months, with the encouragement of the State government, Cr Wegman said. Mr Lenders said both he and the Premier had advised the Council of fundraising opportunities to help the Council convert the property for its future use. Cr Wegman noted that applications for funding from the Community Support Fund and for State government heritage grants were being processed. “Council has agreed to a Memorandum of Understanding with the Kew Historical Society outlining arrangements for the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and Council is delighted with the level of support shown by the community and is confident of a bright future for these historic buildings.” Mr Lenders said the Bracks Government is committed to securing the best outcome when buildings that have once served the community outlive their original purpose. “There is a responsibility for Governments to practice good financial management and achieve the best possible price when an asset is longer used by the State,” he said. “There is also a responsibility to consider the local community. The Government and City of Boroondara have worked hard to achieve a balance between these two interests.” The building ceased to operate as a courthouse in 1971 and as a police station in 2002. Part of the building was also used as a post office and this section of the building was sold by the Commonwealth in 1992 to a private owner and is currently run as a licensed restaurant. It is listed on the State's Heritage Register as a place of historical and architectural significance and is protected by the Victorian Heritage Act. Created: 30 August 2006 Last Update: 10 January 2007 kew, kew court house, phillip slobom, town crier, professor peter mcintyre

Environmental approach to preserving Kew Court House 4 June 2010 Paint stripping from older buildings can be a hazardous task. The City of Boroondara has found an environmentally sustainable solution for the works at local heritage icon, the Kew Police Station and Court House. Council used an organic based paint stripping alternative as part of the repairs to the rendering on the building facade. Over nearly three months, the damaged and unsound render was removed, the paint was stripped and the render was repainted. Usually, paint is removed via high pressure water cleaning or sandblasting. This is a harsh method and involves combining extreme high amounts of pressure, water and sand and is highly toxic. It also creates high noise levels. In this 'green' project, Council used a soy bean paint stripper. The process uses a paste-like substance, which is highly effective, non toxic and biodegradable, and applied by hand. Initially, a bandage is applied (much like a leg waxing strip) over the top of paste. It is allowed to dry and then the bandage is stripped off. Noise was kept to a minimum by using the paint stripping alternative. Scrapings and bandages are then bagged and sent to the tip as landfill, so it does not end up in our water supply. The waste and debris don’t run-off into drains, and the bags and bi-products are biodegradable. Studley Ward Councillor Phillip Healey explained that soy bean paint removal is not greatly used in Melbourne or the local government sector. "We know of special cases where it has been used, such as high profile projects like Sydney Harbour Bridge, but Boroondara is one of the first in Victoria to employ this natural plant-based paint-stripping treatment to a large-scale building," Cr Healey said. "What this means is that no harmful substances were used and no injury was caused, soy paint removal also preserves, protects and restores the heritage integrity and decorative stone masonry features of the historic building. "This is a terrific example of our commitment to 'enhancing the environment' which is one of our key directions in the 2010–15 Council Plan." The restoration of the Kew Court House and Police Station is expected to be completed in the year ahead. Council purchased the heritage building in 2007 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building required extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome, and the renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. Heritage Victoria helped fund the cost of the roof repairs with a grant of $250,000, along with the Australian Government contributing $330,000 through its Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. Restoration Underway Concept plans for a new performance and exhibition space at the Kew Court House and Police Station have been developed by the City of Boroondara. Two years ago, Council Purchased the Kew Court House and Police Station from the State Government for $825,000 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building requires extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome. The renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. The restoration has been assisted with a Federal Government grant of $330,000 under the Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. In 2008, Council was also successful in obtaining a Heritage Victoria Grant of $250,000 towards the costs of the roof repairs. Having satisfied the necessary permit requirements, works are about to commence using slate of a similar quality to the original. The City of Boroondara would like to thank all residents and businesses who have contributed to the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal which has raised $650,000. Special thanks go to a private donor who donated $250,000 and the Kew Senior Citizens Club which contributed $50,000. NEWS FLASH 14th March “Council moves to provide certainty for the restoration of the courthouse”. In a historic meeting last night 13th March 07 at Boroondara Council voted overwhelmingly to complete the purchase of the Kew Court House. The partnership continues between the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and the Council to see this project through. The project now has the overwhelming support of Council. “It is no longer about “if” it is about “when” the doors will re open” said Prof Peter McIntyre. With the property secured the fundraising can now be completed without the encumbrances and we know the restoration will be undertaken as the funds become available from the appeal. Work can commence as soon as significant fund raising is achieved. “The community, philanthropists and corporations can now enter this project with certainty. 7th March At the Council meeting on 5th March, following many hours of debate a motion was passed by 5 to 4 vote to purchase the Kew Court House and Police Station outright. As of 7th March Cr Dick Menting lodged a rescission notice. This means that there was another Council meeting at 6pm, Tuesday 13th March at Council Chambers. MEDIA RELEASE - Kew, 3rd December 2006 APPEAL LAUNCHED TO SAVE A NATIONAL TREASURE On the morning of Saturday 18th. November 2006 the people of Kew were aroused by the triumphant sound of the Boroondara Brass which had assembled outside the former Kew Police Station. After four long years of neglect, the precinct was being heralded back to life, and what a heartwarming sound it was for all those early shoppers who gathered to hear Cr. Phillip Healey introduce Patrons and supporters of the Save the Court House campaign. Following the speeches, the "Thermometer" was unveiled and the Appeal was formally under way. The various committees have worked very hard during these past weeks. The Kew Court House Arts Association Inc. has been formed under the leadership of Graeme McCoubrie. This organization brings all the amateur theatre groups in the City of Boroondara together with a view to providing them with a permanent performing space within the former Court House. As well as intimate theatre, there will be provision for the staging of instrumental and choral performances before an audience of 40 to 50 people. The Police Station will compliment the function of the Court House by providing a venue for artist groups to exhibit their work, for the Historical Societies of Boroondara to meet, and for study groups to meet, for activities such as play and poetry readings. It will be a Hub for the Arts in Kew. Of course none of this can happen unless the money to pay for restoration of the buildings is raised, and we only have until March 2007 in which to do this. The City of Boroondara, Kew Historical Society and the East Kew Community Bank are working together as a team to make this dream a reality, but WE NEED YOUR HELP. This is a fantastic one-off opportunity, and it must not be wasted. Donations to the Appeal can be made through the Kew East Kew Community Bank or any branch of the Bendigo Bank, or through the Kew Historical Society Inc., P.O. Box 175 Kew Vic 3101. All donations over $2 are tax deductible through the Community Enterprise Foundation. End Media Release Kew Courthouse future looks bright The State Government has accepted an offer from the local government of Boroondara to purchase the former Kew Courthouse and Police Station, Minister for Finance John Lenders said today. In a joint statement with the Mayor of Boroondara, Councillor Jack Wegman, Mr Lenders said he was pleased that agreement had been reached and the contract of sale document finalised. “I welcome the Council making this step towards purchasing this property after recent negotiations,” Mr Lenders said. “The settlement date for the purchase of the property is March 2007. The State government sold the property to Council at a reduced cost of $825,000 for community use. The full value of the buildings on the commercial marketplace was estimated to be about $2million,” he said. Cr Wegman said the Contract of Sale provides that if the funds cannot be raised to restore the property for use as community buildings then they will be returned to the State government. In relation to this additional funding to restore and modernise the buildings, Council and the community will work together over the next eight months, with the encouragement of the State government, Cr Wegman said. Mr Lenders said both he and the Premier had advised the Council of fundraising opportunities to help the Council convert the property for its future use. Cr Wegman noted that applications for funding from the Community Support Fund and for State government heritage grants were being processed. “Council has agreed to a Memorandum of Understanding with the Kew Historical Society outlining arrangements for the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and Council is delighted with the level of support shown by the community and is confident of a bright future for these historic buildings.” Mr Lenders said the Bracks Government is committed to securing the best outcome when buildings that have once served the community outlive their original purpose. “There is a responsibility for Governments to practice good financial management and achieve the best possible price when an asset is longer used by the State,” he said. “There is also a responsibility to consider the local community. The Government and City of Boroondara have worked hard to achieve a balance between these two interests.” The building ceased to operate as a courthouse in 1971 and as a police station in 2002. Part of the building was also used as a post office and this section of the building was sold by the Commonwealth in 1992 to a private owner and is currently run as a licensed restaurant. It is listed on the State's Heritage Register as a place of historical and architectural significance and is protected by the Victorian Heritage Act. Created: 30 August 2006 Last Update: 10 January 2007 Colour photograph of the Kew Historical Society holding an event in the Former Kew Court House.kew, kew court house, kew historical society, meeting, city of boroondara

Returning from Manila in 1856 with a cargo of rice, sugar and rope. Mountain Maid was wrecked after colliding with the Victorian steamer, SS Queen. No lives were lost but the ship sank quickly and the crew was forced to swim for their lives. The pilot onboard Mountain Maid was dismissed from the Pilot service, as he'd already run two other ships aground before changing direction and causing the collision with SS Queen (Lomdahl 1992:Mountain Maid). Pintle and Gudgeon Type Ruddermountain maid, shipwrecks, rudder

On Tuesday, 4 October 1904, the first serious railway accident occurred on the Colac-Beech Forest line near Beech Forest. As no train was scheduled that day in the afternoon the crew decided to fetch some wood from down the line. They fired the boiler on locomotive 3A, attached two trucks to the locomotive and moved out of the station. When they arrived opposite the Ditchley Park Hotel they stopped the engine and adjourned to the bar for some refreshments before beginning work. While they were engaged some local children boarded the unattended engine, started it, panicked when it began moving and jumped out leaving in to speed away and tip on a curve in a cutting at Ditchley. The engine was severely damaged. However, its cause remained an Otways secret. The official reason given for the accident is that the driver had fallen out of the engine while engaged in shunting allowing it to run away out of control.Locomotive No. 3A and goods wagons following their derailment at Beech Forest, 4 October 1904.beech forest; railways; narrow gauge; derailment;

Written during the 1960s when surfing was burgeoning across Australia’s coast and Phillip Island surf beaches had become extremely popular, few management strategies were in place to control interaction of the public with the delicate flora and fauna of the coastal environments. There were few good access tracks, car parks, bins, toilets etc at coastal/surfing hotspots around the Phillip Island coast. A number of management issues occurred with the influx of surfers. These included dune erosion caused by surfers climbing dunes to see the surf before going on the beach; informal parking on wildlife habitat; numerous access paths from wherever cars were parked down to the beach cutting through habitat; illegal camping on foreshores; illegal lighting of fires on beach and in dunes; surfers’ dogs let out of the car while surfers were out on the water. The dogs were uncontrolled. Certainly some surfers behaved responsibly, as is almost invariably the case these days. However, in that era of this article few people understood the delicate nature of the coastal environment and that it need to be protected through public education, infrastructure and enforcement of regulations. As now, most rural Fire services were run by dedicated volunteers who faced many challenges in their roles as Country Fire Authority firefighters. However, it was not uncommon for visitors and locals to also assist with fire-fighting efforts.The article is significant in containing quotes from both sides of the discussion who were directly involved in coastal fire incidents on Phillip Island in the 1960s. It also indicates the large number of surfers visiting Phillip Island beaches, the volunteer nature of the firefighting service and the extra challenges they faced on Phillip Island as a visitor destination. The anonymous university student surfer who is quoted, also describes possible causes of the fires, methods he and his fellow surfers used to extinguish the fires and raise the alarm, and the way they assisted the volunteer firefighters . The reference to him breaking into one of the Summerland housing estate holiday houses is also significant because that housing estate was purchased over 2 decades by successive Victorian governments to remove management issues caused to the wildlife habitat on Summerland Peninsula.Photocopy of newspaper cuttings including 2 related articles. Five columns of black text on white paper with one poorly reproduced photo bottom rightphillip island, cat bay, country fire authority, artie murdoch, alf towns, frank dixon, barry thompson, newhaven-san remo rural fire brigade, penguin parade, cowrie beach, surfers, coastal fires

The photograph was taken at a Sunbury Race meeting, when a sudden shower of rain caused the spectators to run for cover. Sunbury Race Course was situated along Racecourse Road about 2kms from the railway station. The land has been sold and it is now a housing estate. The race meetings in Sunbury were well attended with special trains running from Melbourne on race days.A noon-digital sepia photograph mounted on cardboard of a crowd of people caught in a sudden shower of rain and running for shelter at a race meeting.sunbury race meetings, racecourse road, races, stud farms

This 1941 Reo bus was owned by the Mylon Bus Company in Wodonga. The gas bag was used for fuel to compensate for the shortage of petrol during World War II. The Reo, powered by gas, could run 40 miles on 1,100 cubic feet. Albury and Wodonga Councils pruned back the trees so the bus could pull into the kerbs without tearing the gas bag, and the Albury Council put in a special gas pipeline to the corner of David Street where the bag could be refilled. Street lights could also cause a problem for the bag's safety. The driver in this image is Alf Jackson pictured with the Mylon boys, Phillip, David and Bernie. In 1906 Patrick Mylon started a passenger transport service in the Albury-Wodonga border area with horses and cabs. His son Jack went into business in the late 1920s, and his grandson Bernie joined the firm early in 1970. When Patrick started with the horses and cabs, each cab carried eight passengers and he always had two horses per cab. As the business expanded, Mylons used a range of buses and coaches including Reo, Chev and Bedford vehicles. During more than 100 years of service to the Wodonga region and beyond, Mylon Motorways received many awards for Excellence and Tourism. On 2nd July 2008 the company, including its 31 buses and 45 staff members, were transferred to the Dyson Group.This image is significant because it captures innovations made to cope with fuel scarcity during World War II and represents an important Wodonga business.A black and white image of a Reo gas-powered bus owned by Mylon Bus Lines Wodonga. The driver and a group of boys are standing beside the bus.mylon motorways, patrick mylon, wodonga transport

Set of two forms - A4 photocopies - Yarra Trams .1 - "Operations Officer's Report of car turned back and kilometres lost for.." .2 - "Lost Kilometre/Turned Back Report" To provide details of tram services that were turned back or "short shunted" and details - recording the tram, depot, run number, route, time, driver's details, destination, point of turn back, minutes late, cause, and Officer's details. This information became important for the performance reports to Government.trams, tramways, tramcars, operations, forms, depots, yarra trams

Howard Murray (Pat) Lightfoot (1904-1991) served as President for the Association for the Blind in 1952-1954 and 1964-1972 respectively. He joined the Association in 1938 as a sighted member of the General Committee, and was part of the group that dealt with the breakdown of a uneasy financial agreement that existed between the RVIB and AAB, the incorporation of the AAB under the Charities Act and the development of a rehabilitation centre at Kooyong for those who wished to have support without a residential component. After losing his father at an early age, Pat Lightfoot began working as an office boy for Nicholas Pty Ltd, later studying and becoming an accountant - such skills highly needed by the newly incorporated Association. According to 'No Sight, Great Vision', he was a highly skilled communicator, whose friendly and approachable manner won over most of those who opposed his presence on the general committee due to his sight. His support for and recognition of the work done by Mr Paterson led to him standing aside for the position of President and nominating his friend until the Committee overrode him in 1952. His appointment signaled a change in how the organisation was run, and introduced John Wilson as Secretary as well as Stan Horsfall as Treasurer in 1953, which helped move the administration style from social volunteering to business thinking. Health concerns caused him to resign in 1954, however when his health improved he rejoined the Committee in 1958 and again became a key worker in keeping the organisation financially healthy. The "H.M. Lightfoot Centre" - a two storey building attached to Paterson Hall was named after him. This image was provided when J Balmain was approached to paint a portrait of Mr Lightfoot, for the centenary celebrations of the AFB, as per the letter.1 portrait photograph of Howard (Pat) Lightfoot and 1 associated letter regarding usage for a portrait by Balmain.Mr H.M. (Pat) Lightfoot - (Past President) 1" Deep (No. 2) Association for the Blind 7 Mair Street Brighton Beach, 3188 Please return to PR Department (arrow pointing to left) 14 ems (arrow pointing to right) 1.95 .1 100# Ticket No: 5230 Client: Abaris 100# Wanted: Tues 19th AM Mounted: as layout and sticker 43 1/4% Please Quote No: BA 9105 Laurie Richards 4 Tower Ave, Alphington 3078 489-8528 48-5541h.m. lightfoot, association for the advancement of the blind, association for the blind

Howard Murray (Pat) Lightfoot (1904-1991) served as President for the Association for the Blind in 1952-1954 and 1964-1972 respectively. He joined the Association in 1938 as a sighted member of the General Committee, and was part of the group that dealt with the breakdown of a uneasy financial agreement that existed between the RVIB and AAB, the incorporation of the AAB under the Charities Act and the development of a rehabilitation centre at Kooyong for those who wished to have support without a residential component. After losing his father at an early age, Pat Lightfoot began working as an office boy for Nicholas Pty Ltd, later studying and becoming an accountant - such skills highly needed by the newly incorporated Association. According to 'No Sight, Great Vision', he was a highly skilled communicator, whose friendly and approachable manner won over most of those who opposed his presence on the general committee due to his sight. His support for and recognition of the work done by Mr Paterson led to him standing aside for the position of President and nominating his friend until the Committee overrode him in 1952. His appointment signaled a change in how the organisation was run, and introduced John Wilson as Secretary as well as Stan Horsfall as Treasurer in 1953, which helped move the administration style from social volunteering to business thinking. Health concerns caused him to resign in 1954, however when his health improved he rejoined the Committee in 1958 and again became a key worker in keeping the organisation financially healthy. The "H.M. Lightfoot Centre" - a two storey building attached to Paterson Hall was named after him. In these three photographs Pat and his wife Beth look or stand next to the portrait painted of Pat Lightfoot, for the centenary celebrations.3 coloured photographs of Pat and Beth Lightfooth.m. lightfoot, association for the blind