This part of the walking track is known as "Silent Street' and forms part of the Wonderland /Pinnacle track. the photo is typical of those produced by Victorian Railways for tourism.Photo shows walking track through rocky gorge. A step ladder and railings can be seen. A man is walking up the track.scenery, wonderland range

1946 One of the first Contex calculators, the Half-Keyboard Adder used Leibniz step cylinders to perform simple addition. The predominant use of this Contex would have been adding sterling currency. Starting from the right, the levers were used for half and quarter pence, the next row would be pence, followed by shilling up to 19, and pounds. On the far left there is a zeroing lever for the entire mechanism; Ref: Online: 'physicsmuseum.uq.edu.au'Used by the office staff at the SECV construction of the Kiewa Hydro Electric Scheme.Bakelite small typing machine consisting of numbers with a screen above.'Context' embossed centre front 'Lubrication' with instructions and with Patents on bottom 'Chartres Business Service' at back 'Numbers 1 - 5' at front on knobscontex, adding machine, office equipment

This promotional photograph by the Tobacco Growers Association was in response to a 1935 meeting of tobacco growers from Victoria, South Australia and Queensland which produced four major resolutions for the industry covering the remainder of the 1900s. These four resolutions were: (1) Adequate tariff protection (2) Control of pests and diseases (3) Orderly marketing (4) The formation of an advisory council of growers. History has produced the following results. (1) adequate tariff protection was never achieved,(2) control of disease through benzol vapour (CSIRO) breakthrough, was later identified as carcinogenic, (3) orderly marketing was achieved through (4) the establishment of the Tobacco Growers Association(19840. In October 2006, by way of Government buy back of tobacco leases from growers, resulted in the end of Tobacco farming in Australia (after 136 years of planting the first crop). It was also significant that the major tobacco companies such as Philip Morris and The British American Tobacco Australasia advised the industry that it would source its tobacco requirements overseas by 2009.The death of the tobacco industry(2006) resulted in the expansion of the dairy , sheep, beef cattle, venison and lama wool producers in the Kiewa Valley and surrounding regions. The remnants of the Tobacco Industry can still be viewed throughout the Kiewa Valley and adjacent regions on the former tobacco farms which still have the tobacco drying sheds and now converted into hay sheds. The problems from the large quantities of carcinogenic infused soil of farmlands in the region, still remains a problem now and for future generations. This particular photograph shows the lack of understanding by farmers and the contracted labour, at that time, and is demonstrated by the lack of protection of hands when handling seedlings and attached soil. Hand and foot protection was rarely used, even when later warnings were issued of the carcinogenic toxicity of the soil. The majority of farm owners, up until Health authorities stepped in the later stages of 1900s, were skeptical of city scientists' "carcinogenic" health warnings and it was only after the younger generation of farmers, who had graduated from Agricultural colleges, encompassed the scientific approach to farm management. The "she'll be right mate" attitude of the farming/rural community has since the 1970s been slowly dissipating. Stricter controls of herbicides and pesticides used in agriculture are now in force.Coloured photograph pasted onto a thick wood chip backing. Two galvanised eyelets at the top of the frame, 50mm from each end, with a twine cord stretch from each, for hanging purposes. See also KVHS 0054A, KVHS0054C to KVHS 0054FA sign, which has been removed from the picture at some previous point in time is "Pulling seedlings for planting"tobacco, farming, rural industry, licences, ollie mould, blue mould, benzol vapour, photograph

This promotional photograph by the Tobacco Growers Association was in response to a 1935 meeting of tobacco growers from Victoria, South Australia and Queensland which produced four major resolutions for the industry covering the remainder of the 1900s. These four resolutions were: (1) Adequate tariff protection (2) Control of pests and diseases (3) Orderly marketing (4) The formation of an advisory council of growers. History has produced the following results. (1) adequate tariff protection was never achieved,(2) control of disease through benzol vapour (CSIRO) breakthrough, was later identified as carcinogenic, (3) orderly marketing was achieved through (4) the establishment of the Tobacco Growers Association(1984). In October 2006, by way of Government buy back of tobacco leases from growers, resulted in the end of Tobacco farming in Australia (after 136 years of planting the first crop). It was also significant that the major tobacco companies such as Philip Morris and The British American Tobacco Australasia advised the industry that it would source its tobacco requirements overseas by 2009.The remnants of the Tobacco Industry can still be viewed throughout the Kiewa Valley and adjacent regions on the former tobacco farms which still have the tobacco drying sheds and now converted into hay sheds. The problems from the large quantities of carcinogenic infused soil of farmlands in the region, still remains a problem now and for future generations. This particular photograph shows the lack of understanding by farmers and the contracted labour, at that time, and is demonstrated by the lack of protection of hands when handling seedlings and attached soil. Hand and foot protection was rarely used, even when later warnings were issued of the carcinogenic toxicity of the soil. The majority of farm owners, up until Health authorities stepped in the latter stages of 1900s, were skeptical of city scientists' "carcinogenic" health warnings and it was only after the younger generation of farmers, who had graduated from Agricultural colleges, encompassed the scientific approach to farm management. The "she'll be right mate" attitude of the farming/rural community has since the 1970s been slowly dissipating. Stricter controls of herbicides and pesticides used in agriculture are now in force. The death of the tobacco industry(2006) resulted in the expansion of the dairy , sheep, beef cattle, venison and lama wool producers in the Kiewa Valley and surrounding regions.Coloured photograph pasted onto a thick wood chip backing. Two galvanised eyelets at the top of the frame, 50mm from each end, with a twine cord stretch from each, for hanging purposes. See also KVHS 0054A ,KVHS 0054B and KVHC 0054D to KVHS 0054F A sign, which has been removed from the picture at some previous point in time is "The Tobacco crop being topped (flower removed)". tobacco, farming, rural industry, licences, ollie mould, blue mould, benzol vapour

This promotional photograph by the Tobacco Growers Association was in response to a 1935 meeting of tobacco growers from Victoria, South Australia and Queensland which produced four major resolutions for the industry covering the remainder of the 1900s. These four resolutions were: (1) Adequate tariff protection (2) Control of pests and diseases (3) Orderly marketing (4) The formation of an advisory council of growers. History has produced the following results. (1) adequate tariff protection was never achieved,(2) control of disease through benzol vapour (CSIRO) breakthrough, was later identified as carcinogenic, (3) orderly marketing was achieved through (4) the establishment of the Tobacco Growers Association(1984). In October 2006, by way of Government buy back of tobacco leases from growers, resulted in the end of Tobacco farming in Australia (after 136 years of planting the first crop). It was also significant that the major tobacco companies such as Philip Morris and The British American Tobacco Australasia advised the industry that it would source its tobacco requirements overseas by 2009.The remnants of the Tobacco Industry can still be viewed throughout the Kiewa Valley and adjacent regions on the former tobacco farms which still have the tobacco drying sheds and now converted into hay sheds. The problems from the large quantities of carcinogenic infused soil of farmlands in the region, still remains a problem now and for future generations. This particular photograph shows the lack of understanding by farmers, at that time, and is demonstrated by the lack of protection of hands and no masks over their noses, when handling plants. Hand, nose and foot protection was rarely used, even when later warnings were issued of the carcinogenic toxicity of the soil. The majority of farm owners, up until Health authorities stepped in the latter stages of 1900s, were skeptical of city scientists' "carcinogenic" health warnings and it was only after the younger generation of farmers, who had graduated from Agricultural colleges, encompassed the scientific approach to farm management. The "she'll be right mate" attitude of the farming/rural community has since the 1970s been slowly dissipating. Stricter controls of herbicides and pesticides used in agriculture are now in force. The death of the tobacco industry(2006) resulted in the expansion of the dairy , sheep, beef cattle, venison and lama wool producers in the Kiewa Valley and surrounding regions.Coloured photograph pasted onto a thick wood chip backing. Two galvanised eyelets at the top of the frame, 50mm from each end, with a twine cord stretch from each, for hanging purposes. See also KVHS 0054A to KVHS 0054C and 0054E to KVHS 0054FA sign, which has been removed from the picture at some previous point in time is "The Tobacco fully grown prior to start picking"tobacco, farming, rural industry, licences, ollie mould, blue mould, benzol vapour

This promotional photograph by the Tobacco Growers Association was in response to a 1935 meeting of tobacco growers from Victoria, South Australia and Queensland which produced four major resolutions for the industry covering the remainder of the 1900s. These four resolutions were: (1) Adequate tariff protection (2) Control of pests and diseases (3) Orderly marketing (4) The formation of an advisory council of growers. History has produced the following results. (1) adequate tariff protection was never achieved,(2) control of disease through benzol vapour (CSIRO) breakthrough, was later identified as carcinogenic, (3) orderly marketing was achieved through (4) the establishment of the Tobacco Growers Association(19840. In October 2006, by way of Government buy back of tobacco leases from growers, resulted in the end of Tobacco farming in Australia (after 136 years of planting the first crop). It was also significant that the major tobacco companies such as Philip Morris and The British American Tobacco Australasia advised the industry that it would source its tobacco requirements overseas by 2009.The remnants of the Tobacco Industry can still be viewed throughout the Kiewa Valley and adjacent regions on the former tobacco farms which still have the tobacco drying sheds and now converted into hay sheds. The problems from the large quantities of carcinogenic infused soil of farmlands in the region, still remains a problem now and for future generations. This particular photograph shows the lack of understanding by farmers and the contracted labour, at that time, and is demonstrated by the lack of protection of hands when handling the tobacco leaves and nose from tobacco dust. Hand and foot protection was rarely used, even when later warnings were issued of the carcinogenic toxicity of the soil. The majority of farm owners, up until Health authorities stepped in the later stages of 1900s, were skeptical of city scientists' "carcinogenic" health warnings and it was only after the younger generation of farmers, who had graduated from Agricultural colleges, encompassed the scientific approach to farm management. The "she'll be right mate" attitude of the farming/rural community has since the 1970s been slowly dissipating. Stricter controls of herbicides and pesticides used in agriculture are now in force. The death of the tobacco industry(2006) resulted in the expansion of the dairy , sheep, beef cattle, venison and lama wool producers in the Kiewa Valley and surrounding regions.Coloured photograph pasted onto a thick wood chip backing. Two galvanised eyelets at the top of the frame, 50mm from each end, with a twine cord stretch from each, for hanging purposes. See also KVHS 0054A to KVHS 0054D and KVHS 0054Ftobacco, farming, rural industry, licences, ollie mould, blue mould, benzol vapour, photograph

An octant is an astronomical instrument used in measuring the angles of heavenly bodies such as the sun, moon and stars at sea in relation to the horizon. This measurement could then be used to calculate the altitude of the body measured, and then the latitude at sea could also be calculated. The angle of the arms of an octant is 45 degrees, or 1/8 of a circle, which gives the instrument its name. Two men independently developed the octant around 1730: John Hadley (1682–1744), an English mathematician, and Thomas Godfrey (1704–1749), a glazier in Philadelphia. While both have a legitimate and equal claim to the invention, Hadley generally gets the greater share of the credit. This reflects the central role that London and the Royal Society played in the history of scientific instruments in the eighteenth and nineteenth century's. There were also two others who are attributed to having created octanes during this period, Caleb Smith, an English insurance broker with a strong interest in astronomy (in 1734), and Jean-Paul Fouchy, a mathematics professor and astronomer in France (in 1732) In 1767 the first edition of the Nautical Almanac tabulated lunar distances, enabling navigators to find the current time from the angle between the sun and the moon. This angle is sometimes larger than 90°, and thus not possible to measure with an octant. For that reason, Admiral John Campbell, who conducted shipboard experiments with the lunar distance method, suggested a larger instrument and the sextant was developed. From that time onward, the sextant was the instrument that experienced significant development and improvements and was the instrument of choice for naval navigators. The octant continued to be produced well into the 19th century, though it was generally a less accurate and less expensive instrument. The lower price of the octant, including versions without a telescope, made it a practical instrument for ships in the merchant and fishing fleets. One common practice among navigators up to the late nineteenth century was to use both a sextant and an octant. The sextant was used with great care and only for lunar sightings while the octant was used for routine meridional altitude measurements of the sun every day. This protected the very accurate and pricier sextant while using the more affordable octant for general use where it performs well. The invention of the octant was a significant step in providing accuracy of a sailors latitude position at sea and his vessels distance from land when taking sightings of land-based landmarks.Octant with metal handle, three different colored shades are attached, in wooden wedge-shaped box lined with green felt. Key is attached. Two telescope eyepieces are in box. Some parts are missing. Oval ink stamp inside lid of box, scale is graduated to 45 degrees. Ink stamp inside lid of box "SHIPLOVERS SOCIETY OF VICTORIA. LIBRARY"instrument, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, octant, navigation, nautical instrument, navigation instrument, john hadley, sextant, astronomical instrument

Melvin Newton Lovell was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family removed to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, PA. There Melvin served an apprenticeship at the carpenter's trade, and his natural mechanical talent enabled him to become a skilled workman. He followed his trade during the major portion of his term of residence in Kerrtown. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin Lovell left his home and, without parental authority, and entered the Union army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war. In August 1862, he was enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry and saw active service until receiving his discharge at the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up his residence in Erie, where he worked at the carpenter's trade for several years thereafter. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing of certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. Among the principal products of the original factory were washing machines and step-ladders. In 1881 Lovell individually began manufacturing other of his patents, including spring beds, and from modest inception, his Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country and was recognized as being the most extensive manufacture of clothes-wringers in the entire world. In connection with his manufacture of domestic items, Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan and after his business had already been established becoming a substantial concern Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name under the “Anchor” brand, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture of this very superior household invention. Lovell was also one of the organizers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents, with headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey.A significant household item used in the process of washing clothes by a man who had started in 1869, as a young carpenter and later he became a successful businessman and manufacturer of household items. Lovell was granted numerous patents for various devices during his career including several patents for adding machines (cash registers).Wringer (or mangle); portable wooden washing wringer with rubber rollers, manually driven by iron set of gears and handle. Includes iron clamps and adjusting screws for attaching. Marked on frame "382", "12 x 1 3/4" Anchor Brand "Made in USA" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, mangle, clothes wringer, washing equipment, laundry, wringer, domestic, washing mangle

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Australia's first telephone exchange was opened in Melbourne in August 1880. It was operated by the Melbourne Telephone Exchange Company. Owned by W. H. Masters and T. T. Draper, the Manager of the Company was H. Byron Moore. This was only two years after the world's first exchange in the United States, and just four years after Bell first spoke on a telephone. The exchange was located in the old Stock Exchange building at 367 Collins Street, a site now occupied by the Commonwealth Bank. In 1884, the operations of the Company, by then known as the Victorian Telephone Exchange Company, had grown considerably and were transferred to Wills Street, Melbourne. Private ownership of this company continued until 1887 when it was bought out by the Victorian Colonial Government. Other colonial governments followed this example. By 1910, the growth in telephone services made additional accommodation necessary. This could not be provided in the existing building in Wills Street and arrangements were made for a new exchange in Lonsdale Street. Alexander Graham Bell visited Australia in 1910 to advise the Federal Government's Postal Commission. Telephone exchanges were established in Adelaide with (48 subscribers), Hobart (10 subscribers) and Launceston (35 subscribers). The first exchange in Western Australia was established in 1887 and located in a small three-room cottage in Wellington Street, Perth with 17 subscribers. The year 1888 marked the opening of the Fremantle exchange in a small room at the rear of the Town Hall. There were nine subscribers. Australia's first automatic exchange was installed in the GPO in Sydney, in 1911, for internal use. But the first automatic exchange for public use was opened at Geelong in Victoria in the next year July 1912 with 800 subscribers. Melbourne's first automatic exchange was opened in the suburb of Brighton in 1914; the first public automatic exchange in NSW began operating at Newtown, Sydney in 1915; and Queensland's first was installed at South Brisbane in 1925. 1929 saw the opening of Tasmania's first automatic exchange in Hobart. an automatic telephone service. In June 1977, the manual telephone exchange at Swansea was replaced with an automatic service and made Tasmania the first State in Australia to have a fully automatic network. The half-century following Federation saw the growth of the automatic operation; a great extension of trunk line services; The automatic telephone contributed greatly to the early popularity of telephones in Australia. It was a quicker and more convenient way of communicating with another person on the same exchange — instead of having to go through tedious processes with the operator. From its introduction, the number of automatic telephones in operation grew to a remarkable extent. In 1886, the first trunk link of 16 km was connected to the exchanges of Adelaide and Port Adelaide in South Australia. Then, in 1907, the first inter-capital telephone trunk line was opened between Sydney and Melbourne. It was followed by a line between Melbourne and Adelaide in 1914. Sydney and Brisbane were linked in 1923, and Perth and Adelaide in 1930. In 1930, the first overseas calls from Australia came possible with the introduction of a radiotelephone service to England, and through there to Europe and America. A similar service opened to New Zealand in the same year. Initially, trunk channels linked different manual trunk exchanges. It was necessary for a succession of trunk operators to connect the appropriate channels, one after the other until the connection was made. As trunk traffic grew. the system became increasingly unsuitable. More trunk operators had to be employed and so labour costs increased. It was a tedious and slow way of making a long-distance call, and it was sometimes hard to hear, particularly when several exchanges were linked With technical advances, trunk switching moved from manual operation through a partly automatic phase. Automatic transit switching equipment was used and only a single operator was required to connect a trunk call to a wanted automatic subscriber. Until well beyond the middle of this century, the majority of trunk traffic went through this single telephonist control. In 1953, the number of telephones in use in Australia passed the one million mark. By then, the need for improvement in the automatic exchanges was becoming well recognised. The need was for a telephone switching system which would do a better job more economically than the conventional step-by-step ex-change. This led to the adoption of the Crossbar system as the standard in automatic telephone exchanges in 1960. The introduction of Crossbar switching was a big step forward in the automation of trunk calls. It substituted automatic switching and charging equipment for the originating trunk operator, and improved the quality of the system radically. Before the introduction of the Crossbar system there were often very long delays in obtaining a booked trunk call, and the quality of sound was often very poor. With Crossbar, Subscriber Trunk Dialing (STD) became a reality. A trunk call by STD was as easy to make and almost as fast to connect as a local call.The item was made around the 1940s and used up until the 1970s in manual cord telephone exchanges as a way to time and charge users for trunk calls made over the telecom system of the time. Post Master General dept. - Trunk Call Timer.Inscribed PMG, C. of A, 37. Bell chimes at 3 min increments.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, timer, trunk call, telephone, cord exchange

Melvin Newton Lovell was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family removed to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, PA. There Melvin served an apprenticeship at the carpenter's trade, and his natural mechanical talent enabled him to become a skilled workman. He followed his trade during the major portion of his term of residence in Kerrtown. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin Lovell left his home and, without parental authority, and entered the Union army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war. In August 1862, he was enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry and saw active service until receiving his discharge at the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up his residence in Erie, where he worked at the carpenter's trade for several years thereafter. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing of certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. Among the principal products of the original factory were washing machines and step-ladders. In 1881 Lovell individually began manufacturing other of his patents, including spring beds, and from modest inception, his Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country and was recognized as being the most extensive manufacture of clothes-wringers in the entire world. In connection with his manufacture of domestic items, Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan and after his business had already been established becoming a substantial concern Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name under the “Anchor” brand, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture of this very superior household invention. Lovell was also one of the organizers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents, with headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey.A significant household item used in the process of washing clothes by a man who had started in 1869, as a young carpenter and later he became a successful businessman and manufacturer of household items. Lovell was granted numerous patents for various devices during his career including several patents for adding machines (cash registers). This item is now sought by collectors and is even rarer due to it's combination with a Lovell clothes wringer. Wooden wash trough with 2 troughs & attached a Lovell wringer (or mangle Anchor Brand) Hard to make out as worn off with useflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wash trough, wringer, mangle, laundry, cleaning, washing, housework, domestic, melvin newton lovell, wooden was trough

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

``Newspaper clipping from "The Mail" 8 -6- 94 P1 - Council fear's it's fighting a losing battle by Christine McTigheCroydon Council fears it is one step closer to a merger with Ringwood following the release of the Local Government Board's final report on the boundaries of 21 inner metropolitan councils. Croydon Mayor Cr Les Wilmott favors taking over the urban areas of Lilydale, namely Kilsyth, Mooroolbark and Wonga Park. The council fears that the Board has made up its mind to a merger between Croydon and Ringwood, which the councils don't want.`

Manufactured by K. G. Luke Pty Ltd.In 1921 Kenneth Luke became a partner in a small metal-spinning and silverware business at Carlton. By 1925 he was its proprietor and an employer of seven. These employees were still with him thirty years later, with 650 others, making an ever-increasing range of products: silverware, stainless steel surgical equipment, plated goods and glass-washing machines. In 1929 he bought a larger factory in Queen's Parade, Fitzroy (since redeveloped), doubled his staff and introduced new lines. At the outbreak of World War 2 production was again stepped up and Luke became an honorary adviser to the Department of Supply and Shipping. Luke went on to achieve many major public roles. In 1938-55 he was president of the Carlton Football Club. A delegate (from 1935) to the Victorian Football League, he was its vice president (1946-55) and president (1956-71). With post-war growth generating record crowds, he consolidated central administration and professionalised the game for players.A Silver Plated Vase manufactured by K.G. Luke Pty Ltd.A1 - Paramount Plate - Best EPNS Quality Plate 4001-0paramount, k. g. luke pty ltd

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The string has long been a household and office utility, but an easily tangled one. generations of manufactures have devised cast-iron string holders and string reels in an attempt to distribute this material more efficiently. Many different designs of cast-iron string holders exist some nickel, others painted many had an open pattern so clerks behind the counter of the general store could see at a glance if he or she was about to run out of string. In the 20th century, string holders became more decorative, morphing into novelty items for the home. History: Starting from 1869, the young carpenter by trade, Melvin Newton Lovell (1844-1895) from Erie, Pennsylvania, later a manufacturer and successful businessman, was granted numerous patents for various devices, between them several patents for adding machines and cash registers in 1891. The Lovell Manufacturing Company was founded by Melvin Newton Lovell who was born in Allegheny, Venango county, Pennsylvania, on 31 August 1844, to Darius T. Lovell (1815-1855) and Susan B. (Conover) Lovell (1827-1883). When Melvin Lovell was a boy, the family moved to Kerrtown, a village located in the vicinity of Titusville, Pennsylvania. There Melvin served an apprenticeship as a carpenter's and his natural mechanical talent, soon enabled him to become a skilled workman. In 1861, at seventeen years of age, Melvin left home, without parental authority, and joined the Union Army soon after the outbreak of the Civil war, in August 1862, he enlisted as a private in the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry, and was discharged the end of May 1863. In 1865 he took up residence in Erie, where he worked as a carpenter for some years. In 1869 Melvin Lovell invented and patented several useful articles for household use, and in that year he began the manufacturing certain of these inventions, in partnership with Franklin Farrar Adams, another inventor. The company's principal products were washing machines and step-ladders but also made many other cast iron household items known as the “Anchor Brand” when manufacturing began in earnest in 1881. As a result, the Lovell Manufacturing Company grew to be one of the largest industrial concerns of its kind in the country, recognized as being the most extensive manufacturer of clothes-wringers in the entire world. Lovell established sales agencies for his products in all parts of the country, and these branches were known as the Lovell stores. These goods were sold on the instalment plan, an innervation at the time for which Lovell was credited as the originator. Lovell invented and patented the famous wringer which bears his name, and in later years he confined his operations largely to the manufacture and improvement of this invention. Lovell was also one of the organisers and stockholders of the Combination Roll & Rubber Manufacturing Co, of New York, which was formed to manufacture his patents. With headquarters in New York and a factory at Bloomfield, New Jersey. Unfortunately, during a trip to Atlanta, while representing the state of Pennsylvania at a trade exposition, he passed away in his prime, on 21 November 1895, and was buried in Erie Cemetery, Erie, PA. Today the Lovell Manufacturing Company and foundry is preserved and situated at Lovell Place 1301 French Street Erie Pennsylvania, the site is regarded as a historic complex and national historic district. It includes nine contributing buildings built between 1883 and 1946 and has now been converted to luxury apartments.An item used in shops, offices etc to dispense string although the item was commonly found in many areas of general commerce. It was made by a factory and patented in the USA by Melvin Lovell who had invented the first adding machine and the original mangle or wringer washing machine used in every house throughout the world from 1891 and the forerunner to our modern day washing machines. Its age and connection to this once notable maker and his company and it's age makes it an interesting item from a historical view point.Dispenser,cast iron for string with a central rod & 2 curved handing hooks. Marked Anchor Brand & blue in colour.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, melvin newton lovell, string dispenser, string, packaging, anchor brand

The Salamandra is a Polish glider designed by Waclaw Czerwinski at the Military Glider Workshops in Krakow in 1936. This glider, designated “W.W.S.1”, was produced in substantial numbers prior to the second world war and used in Poland and some other eastern European countries for training pilots. Only one example survived the war, hidden away in the village of Goleszow in Silesia. In addition, no technical drawings could be found, so when the glider was discovered, the Gliding Institute being keen to re-establish gliding in Poland, used the glider to draw up new plans for construction. Five were built for the Institute in 1947 before production was resumed of the “Salamandra 48” at the SZD Jezow Workshops. Improvement were made by adding airbrakes and structural changes for the “Salamandra 49” and a windscreen and larger tailplane were changes adopted for the “Salamandra 53”. An export version designated “53A” was sold to and built under licence in China. Production of the Salamandra ceased in the early 1960s. Total production may have been in excess of 500. The glider was well regarded as a light weight trainer capable of soaring performance. The Museum’s replica was built by Ray Ash and may be may be classified as a “Salamandra 53”. However, he has added something of his own to the design by replacing the cable runs in the wings with control rods. The glider is substantially complete. The wings and tail / rudder surfaces have been covered with poly-fibre fabric. The fuselage woodwork is sealed with varnish. In addition to the finishing work (including painting) and rigging of the main components, the linkages for Ray’s control rod modification may need further engineering to make them operational. The Ray Ash Salamandra is the first of the type to appear in Australia. The Salamandra did not play any role in the development of gliding in Australia in the early years. However, it is an important exhibit in that it shows in tangible form a nacelle fuselage training glider in configuration and construction detail. As such it revisits the pioneering era of the 1930s and 1940s in Australia when wood, wire and fabric were the rule and the nacelle primary glider was generally the first step up for pilots who had mastered the basics in an open primary.Nacelled solo training glider of traditional wood and fabric construction. Construction incomplete.Noneaustralian gliding, sailplane, glider, salamandra, czerwinshi, poland, ash

Photograph of No. 26 Tram beside the log lock up in Sailors Gully Road, Eaglehawk (Bendigo). The destination board reads Eaglehawk and this is also on a large sign on top of the tram. There is a man with his foot on the boarding step and another three men standing beside the tramorganization, public utility, bendigo tramways., no. 26 tram, eaglehawk

60lbs rail that was used throughout the Victorian rail network. In 1887 Gibbs, Bright and Co. had a contract with Victorian Railways for railway and canal construction and supply of Krupp Rails. Gibbs, Bright and Co were merchant bankers and shipping agents and merchants who where also Directors of the GWR ( Great Western Railway ) and the Ship The "Great Britain" in England Gibbs, Bright and Company had principally been involved in shipping and trading, mainly in the West Indies, but following the discovery of gold in Victoria they established an office in Melbourne and soon became one of the leading shipping agents and merchants in the Colony. They expanded into passenger shipping and soon established offices in Brisbane, Sydney, Newcastle, Adelaide and Perth as well as launching passenger services between England, Mauritius and New Zealand. Gibbs, Bright also held a number of financial agencies from British mortgage, finance and investment companies as well as representing several British insurance companies in Australia. In addition they conducted a growing import business as well as an export business that included livestock, dairy produce, wool and flour. Also the company played a substantial part in the development of Australia's mineral resources, starting with lead in 1895, and later venturing into tin, gold, copper, cement and super phosphates. In Australia, after WWI, many of the larger companies were managing their own import and export so Gibbs, Bright and Company tended to focus its Agency business on smaller companies while expanding their interest into other markets such as timber, wire netting, zinc, stevedoring, road transport, marine salvage, gold mining as well as mechanical, structural, electrical and marine engineering. The Company's shipping interests continued to grow as well and still formed a major part of its business. In 1948 the parent company in England took the major step from tradition when they changed the business from a partnership into a private limited company. The name was the same, Antony Gibbs and Sons Limited, and in practice the effect of the change was very little. Some of the firm's branches and departments had already become limited companies and the formation of a parent company simplified the structure. The Australian operation was in time changed to Gibbs Bright & Co Pty Ltd in 1963. In 1848 Alfred Krupp becomes the sole proprietor of the company which from 1850 experiences its first major growth surge. In 1849 his equally talented brother Hermann (1814 - 1879) takes over the hardware factory Metallwarenfabrik in Berndorf near Vienna, which Krupp had established together with Alexander Schöller six years earlier. The factory manufactures cutlery in a rolling process developed by the brothers. Krupp's main products are machinery and machine components made of high-quality cast steel, especially equipment for the railroads, most notably the seamless wheel tire, and from 1859 to an increased extent artillery. To secure raw materials and feedstock for his production, Krupp acquires ore deposits, coal mines and iron works. On Alfred Krupp's death in 1887 the company employs 20,200 people. His great business success is based on the quality of the products, systematic measures to secure sales, the use of new cost-effective steel-making techniques, good organization within the company, and the cultivation of a loyal and highly qualified workforce among other things through an extensive company welfare system. From 1878 August Thyssen starts to get involved in processing the products manufactured by Thyssen & Co., including the fabrication of pipes for gas lines. In 1882 he starts rolling sheet at Styrum, for which two years later he sets up a galvanizing shop. The foundation stone for Maschinenfabrik Thyssen & Co. is laid in 1883 with the purchase of a neighboring mechanical engineering company. In 1891 August Thyssen takes the first step toward creating a vertical company at the Gewerkschaft Deutscher Kaiser coal mine in [Duisburg-]Hamborn, which he expands to an integrated iron and steelmaking plant on the River Rhine. Just before the First World War he starts to expand his group internationally (Netherlands, UK, France, Russia, Mediterranean region, Argentina). info from The company thyssenkrupp - History https://www.thyssenkrupp.com/en/company/history/the-founding-families/alfred-krupp.htmlHistoric - Victorian Railways - Track Rail - made by Krupp in 1888Section of VR Krupp 1888 Rail mounted on a piece of varnished wood. Rail made of ironpuffing billy, krupp, rail, victorian railways

Series of four photos of Railway Step Bridge Stawell 1991Four (4) Colour Photographs, two on one page and 2 individual Photographs.The Two photographs one showing a footbridge in the distance with two cement pipes in front, and a pile of soil further back. A Truck is parked under the bridge. Buildings are in the distance on the lsft side. The Lower photograph is showing the bridge almost dismantled with the surfces of the bridge being held by two cranes with a person on the brdge. The other two photgraphs show the bridge from the groundlooking across the railway tracks one is a clsoe up of the bridge. On the rear of the tow Individual Photographs 224-2a on the top from the left Stawell Old Railway Bridge Bottom left corner ST1-2 224-2b From top left Stawell Old Railway bridge 1991. Bottom left ST1-4stawell, railways

Well made, simple and practical. Probably home made by a handyman. Easy to use and clean. Laminex colouring typical of 1960/1970'sRed vinyl seat, laminex step 32cm from floor. Arms of table screwed onto frame so can swivel - be lifted up over childs head. Table rests on top of frame. Red and white laminex back support table and step. Rubber covers on feet. Silver and dark red. None