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National Wool Museum
Book, Knitting, Sun-glo Knitting Book series 109
This book was owned by the late Dr Elizabeth Kerr and was donated to the Museum by the executor of her estate, Margaret Cameron. It was produced by the Alexandria Mills in Sydney and contains knitting patterns for womens bed jackets and undergarments.Sun-glo / Knitting / Book / Design No. / 3561 / Page 5 / Series 109 / 6d.knitting handicrafts - history, alexandria spinning mills pty ltd f.w. hughes pty ltd, knitting, handicrafts - history -
National Wool Museum
Book, Knitting, Sun-glo Knitting Book series 61
This book was owned by the late Dr Elizabeth Kerr and was donated to the Museum by the executor of her estate, Margaret Cameron. It was produced by the Alexandria Mills, Sydney, during WWII and contains knitting patterns for womens bedjackets and undergarments.Sun-glo / Knitting / Book / DESIGN No. / 2666 / PAGE 3. / Series 61 / 7d.knitting handicrafts - history, alexandria spinning mills pty ltd, knitting, handicrafts - history -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Chemisette
... undergarments ...Cream coloured silk chemisette with a scalloped hemline. The chemise has short sleeves and has horizontal tucking on the skirt. There is additional embroidery on the base and on the yoke.women's clothing, underwear, chemises, chemisettes, undergarments -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Chemisette, 1900s
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Sleeveless chemisette with five concealed pearl buttons. Hand worked broderie anglais lace. Peplum is attached to an insert of ribbon tape lace. Neckline and bodice edged with lace. The same lace is also used to border an insert cutwork panel with concealed button holes lace, women's clothing, underwear, undergarments, chemisettes -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Embroidered Silk Chemisette, 1900s
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Rectangular silk organza chemisette, with inset embroidered net at the front and at the neck. The free-form, multicoloured silk embroidery includes abstract flowers, fruit and leaves, and may be of Chinese origin. The chemisette has five decorative mother-of-pearl buttons at the front and silk organza ties at the waist.lace, women's clothing, australian fashion, undergarments, chemisettes -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Broderie Anglaise Camisole, 1910s
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Camisole with pearl buttons. Two circular floral motifs on either side of front buttons. Broderie finish to armholes and the back. Joined peplum for gatherhing tape at waist linelace, women's clothing, lingerie, broderie anglaise, undergarments -
Yarra Ranges Regional Museum
Photograph, Rational Dress Picnic, Fernshaw, Vic Watt's River, c. 1895
This is an early stereoview by George Rose. The women in the picture wears 'Rational Dress', which referes to a dress reform during the late Victorian era. THe reform was particulally realted to womens undergarments which were modified to be more comfortable and less restrictive. Stereographic photo - Rational Dress Picnic, Fernshaw, VIC., Watts River Printed in brown along left edge : Rose's Stereoscopic Views,- / Australian Seriies. Printed in brown along right edge: Sold only by George Rose, - / Publisher, Windsor, Melbourne. Printed underneith image: 743, Rational Dress Picnic, Fernshaw, VIC, Watts Riverrose series, fernshaw, rational dress, watts river -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a machine made lace trim which as been made to look handmade. It measures 4.6cm by 253cm and is quite an unusual design which gives the fabric of the lace a slight elasticity. It was most likely used as a trim for an undergarment such as a petticoat, pantaloons or for a comfortable nightgown. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929 The names of the Amess women who owned the lace are: Jane Amess (nee Straughan) – donor Unity’s great grandmother (pet name Janet, but not used as it will confuse with Unity’s mother). Jane was the wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. Frances Amess (nee Turnbull) – grandmother, married Robert Lisle Straughan Amess, 4th child of Samuel and Jane Janet Jickell (nee Amess) – mother, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis, married James Jickell Unity Mary Bright (nee Jickell) was the donor, 2nd of two children of Robert and Francis. machine made lace trim made to look hand made. Slight elasticity.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
National Wool Museum
Book, Knitting, Patons Knitting Book no. 174
One of a collection of 56 knitting pattern books donated by Mrs Hilma Carruthers. These books had been used by Mrs Carruthers, her mother and her two daughters. This book was produced by Patons and Baldwins and contains knitting patterns for womens bedjackets, nightclothes and undergarments.Patons Knitting Book / no. 174 / "LANA" / See page 2 / 7d. / A PATONS & BALDWINS' PUBLICATIONhandicrafts - history knitting, patons and baldwins (australia) ltd, handicrafts - history, knitting -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Chemisette, 1900s
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Chemisette with a square neckline and three buttons down the front. It has an attached peplum. The sleeves and neckline are edged with lace. A row of ribbon insertion lace tape is attached to fabric of neckline. 30 mm in from the front of the neckline is a row of drawn thread work. Bodice is also decorated with 4 rows of triple pin tucking. The garment is short sleeved. The buttonholes are concealedlace, women's clothing, underwear, camisoles, chemisettes, undergarments -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Chemisette, 1900s
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Sleeveless chemisette with 3 pearl buttons decorated with 4 rings of cut work flowers. Ribbon threaded around the neckline. Bodice gathered to attach to peplum at waist line. Handworked.fashion and textiles collection - kew historical society, lace, women's clothing, underwear, undergarments, chemisettes -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Chemisette
... undergarments ...The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. Camisole comprised of three types of machine lace and an embroidered cotton joined together to form a fabric and backed with fine netting. There is a band of narrow lace at the square neckline, this is attached to a band of insertion lace with ribbon holes and then wide bands of insertion lace. At the upper midriff level there is a band of lace interspersed with embroidered butterflies. Garment is buttoned at the front.lace, women's clothing, lingerie, underwear, undergarments, chemisettes -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a lovely length of machine made lace trim which combines broderie anglaise diamonds with a subtle embroidered design. It is an insertion trim which would provide an understated embellishment to undergarments, bed linen, children’s clothing and is particularly suited for use on mob caps and aprons. Broderie anglaise patterns and techniques were copied by St Gallen embroidery machines from the 1870s onwards.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.machine length of lace trim with recurring diamond patternsLabel stuck on one end "4 1/2"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This is quite a wide machine embroidered lace and could be used to embellish home wear such as a fichu or an apron. It could also be used for bed linen, undergarments or nightwear. It appears to be cotton or possibly linen with a scalloped edge and broderie anglaise style designs included sparingly. On occasion, it was used as an edging over the mantlepiece to shield the stove's heat and steam from the cook's face and protect items on the shelf.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women,.Machine embroidered scalloped edge lace with small embroidered patterns of acorns.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
Torchon lace, also known as ‘beggars’ lace is one of the simplest forms of bobbin lace. This lace trim length (3cm x 65cm) which was hand made, is off-white in colour. The thread used is thicker than that used on the finer needlepoint laces and was originally worked in linen although cotton was also used. Due to its strength and softness it was favoured to be used as a trim on undergarments.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929length of lace trim, off-white colour; hand-made Torchon (duster) lace; used on underwearchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is an interesting insertion piece with machine made copies of bobbin made ‘spiders’ which could be highlighted by ribbon insertion. The eyelets are placed so that the inserted ribbon covers the plain areas and is highlighting the decorative spiders and the fagoted edging would be revealed. This would be another lovely embellishment for baby’s clothes and accessories such as cradle trim, pillows and pram coverings. It would also be highly suitable for the clothing, undergarments and bed linen of children.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered section of lace trim with recurrent geometric motifsjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Orbost & District Historical Society
wash board
Glass washboards were popular during World War II due to a shortage of metal. The body was made of wood, but the scrubbing area was glass. Washboards were normally two-sided with one side having more refined ridges and also came in a variety of sizes. The smaller washboards were used for delicates such as undergarments and petticoats, while larger washboards were used for such items of clothing as shirts and pants. They were used over the laundry tubs. (ref. Antique Traders)This glass scrubbing board is an example of the typical laundry equipment used by families in the Orbost district in the early 20th century.A rectangular glass washboard with a wooden frame. The glass insert is corrugated glass and the backing at the top is original. Frame is new (original had borer damage).On backing at top - Possum trademarklaundry-equipment washing scrubbing-board -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This length of machine embroidered insertion was most likely intended to be sewn into children’s wear, women’s undergarments and nightgowns or as an embellishment for bed linen. Fagoting is a stitch used to join two hemmed edges together or an embroidery done by pulling out horizontal threads and using the vertical stitches to decorate the gap. This fagoting is quite dainty and the satin stitch four leaved flowers add further decoration. This would have been created on an embroidery machine most likely in the early 19th century. The first known use of the word ‘fagoting’ was in 1868 and relates to small sticks of firewood tied into bundles.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Length of machine embroidered lace trim, with thick bands of plain white material and small insert of white lace.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This 158cm length of machine embroidered broderie anglaise was most likely intended to be inserted into children’s wear, women’s undergarments or as an embellishment for bed linen. It most likely originated in or around the Czech Republic but became extremely popular in England in the mid1800s. Prior to the 1870s broderie anglaise was created by hand either by punching out the holes with an embroidery stiletto and using a fine buttonhole stitch around them or by creating the pattern with stitchery and using scissors to cut out the holes. Beginning in the 1870s it was made using the Swiss hand-embroidery machine and nowadays all broderie anglaise is made by machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Machine embroidered length of lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
Whether machine made or handmade, this length of trim is dainty and delicate in the true Valenciennes style. Circles surrounding six-petalled flowers with little spiders above and below where the circles meet, it is quite beautiful. The diamond ground is typically Valenciennes as is the pattern of flowers. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. This trim is also suited to trimming a mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Valenciennes lace with floral motifs with six petals enclosed within a circular motif.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This piece is a beautifully preserved machine made copy of Valenciennes style lace as can be seen from the diamond shaped ground. This would have been made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of the hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with diamond groundjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This piece is amachine made copy of Valenciennes bobbin lace with many-legged spiders and a simple oval and circle pattern. Again it is worth noting that hand-made Valenciennes lace was very costly and time consuming (e.g., a pair of ruffles valued at £160 would take the lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to complete) therefore the advent of machine made copies was welcomed although the Barmen made lace was more expensive that that made on the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lacejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is a section of a machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece. The holes are made for the insertion of ribbon and it would have been a pretty addition to a petticoat, bed linen or nightwear. The embroidered design is an indicator that perhaps this is later than the 19th century with the use of satin stitch. The edging is a type of fagoting where stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric together or threads are drawn and the gap created is decorated using a strong embroidery thread usually in a herringbone pattern but in a straight pattern in this case. In its most traditional form fagoting was done by removing weft threads and decorating the gap. When a plain linen chemise was your nightwear, it was an easy method for all classes of society to decorate their undergarment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Length of machine made embroidered eyelet insertion piece.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Magazine - HANRO COLLECTION: HANRO ADVERTISING BROCHURE FOR UNDERGARMENTS, 1977
Hanro Advertising Brochure for Undergarments: Four page brochure on a brown background with pink framed pictures of a model in a black and white photo wearing undergarments. The first page in a large frame is a model with long blond hair wearing a spencer trimmed with lace and is ribbed at the waist and is wearing briefs. At the bottom right side is printed 'Hanro of Switzerland in white print and on the left is the numbers: A)204/61563-41061 and the wool symbol. Page two has five frames with different spencers and briefs. At the bottom of each frame has the number of the garments and has the cotton symbol. The Third page has five frames each with different garments and their item numbers at the bottom along with a wool or cotton symbol. At the top printed in white is 'Hanro of Switzerland'. Back page has a large frame with a model wearing a Camisette and bikini, at the bottom printed in white is 'M02631/11166-40050 and the cotton symbol. To the right bottom printed in white is 'Hanro of Switzerland. At the right side top of the frame is printed in white 'Reine Schurwolle, Pure Laine vierge, Pura lana vergine, with the wool symbol to the side. Reine Baumwolle gezwirnt, Pur coton retors, Filo di scozia. With the cotton symbol. The bottom of the page has a border of 6cm in the pink colour. In the center of the brochure on A4 white paper in black print is a price list, page number and Item description. The page is header 'Hanro Preisliste/Prix courant Herbst/Automne 1977. Box 116AHanro AG, CH-4410 Liestal, Switzerland . Printed in Switzerland 77/2hanro, clothing, intimate apparel -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This piece has been labelled by the Lacemakers Guild as ‘Imitation Valenciennes’which leads one to assume that it is machine made and created to look like a handmade Valenciennes trim Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front). It was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy and this section is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machineChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Imitation Valenciennes length of white lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Pink lobster-tail bustle, c. 1875
This full length lobster tail bustle was owned and worn by Alice Frances Henty, the daughter of Francis Henty and Mary Ann (Lawrence) Henty. Bustles of this form date from the mid-1860s however this example probably dates from the mid 1870s, and perhaps from before her marriage to John Hindson in 1876. Alice's father, Francis Henty, was the youngest son of Thomas Henty, who with his family, their retainers and property moved to the Australian colonies between 1829 and 1832. In 1834, Francis’ older brother, Edward, sailed from Launceston in Van Diemen’s Land to what was to become Portland in the western part of Port Phillip District [Victoria]. Francis, together with the first flock of Merino sheep [in Victoria], followed some months later. The first and second generations of the Henty family established vast pastoral properties in the Western part of the Port Phillip District. Francis Henty managed ‘Merino Downs’ near Casterton, while also living in his retirement at ‘Field Place' in Kew.The Henty Collection of nineteenth and twentieth century clothing, including outerwear and underwear, was collected, stored and exhibited over time by female family members descended from Francis and Mary Ann Henty. During the twentieth century, items from the collection were modelled in two fashion parades by various descendants [1937, 1959]. The items in the collection are historically and aesthetically significant, with provenance provided by oral and written tradition within or held by the family. A number of the items in the collection are very rare survivors, and provide researchers with the evidence needed to reconstruct the lives of notable women in the Port Phillip District [later Victoria] during the nineteenth and early twentieth century.An exceptionally rare and fine, floor length, 'lobster tail' bustle that belonged to Alice Henty possibly worn with her two-piece pink silk gown but also with other dresses that she owned that required a bustle of this shape. The structure of the bustle includes an outer layer of polished cotton with inserted steel hoops and ties at the front. The lower four hoops have flounces of the same fabric. Overall, the bustle contains 12 hoops, crossed nearer the waist and semi-circular for the remainder of the undergarment. [One of the tapes of the bustle is imprinted with the word lockstitch. Elias Howe invented the lockstitch sewing machine in 1846.] Measurements (mm): BUSTLE: Girth - Waist 660 Vertical - Front waist to hem 914, Back waist to hem 965.fashion -- 1870s, alice frances (henty) hindson, women's clothing, bustles, underwear -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Jacket, before April 1874
THE JACKET This jacket has been tailored to flatter the wearer’s figure. It also has elements that keep it in good shape and condition, preserve it from soiling and give it a longer life: - the hooks and eyes that join the jacket to the skirt allow the outfit to be made in two pieces but fit close to the body without exposing undergarments - the seams for the metal stays have been cut and stitched to allow maximum movement of the wearer and still keep a trim figure - the discreet breast pocket allows the wearer to keep a handkerchief, coins or other small items close at hand - the lining includes removable padded shields to absorb underarm perspiration - the lining has two cotton loops attached for hanging up to air and freshen it - new cuffs have been attached over the original sleeves that have buttonholes but no buttons. The buttons may have been used to replace missing buttons on the front of the jacket or perhaps to repair worn cuffs The amber coloured satin jacket is fully lined, has turned-back cuffs, a band collar, and looped, coffee-coloured braid trim. A row of closely spaced, round bronze buttons with a floral motif form a decorative closure most of the way down the front of the jacket, below which are metal hooks and eyes that finish at the waist. Underneath the cuffs there is a closely fitted cuff with a row of three button holes but no buttons. The jacket lining has vertical metal stays spaced around the midriff, sides and back. There is an absorbent, removable pad hand-stitched to the underarm section of each sleeve opening. A small satin pocket is stitched discreetly onto the lining above the chest on the right-hand side. There are also two cotton loops sewn onto the lining. Several small metal rings are sewn at intervals around the inside of the waist A satin bow from the same fabric is attached at the centre back of the jacket at waist level. antique satin jacket, colonial evening jacket, ladies evening jacket, 19th century ladies satin jacket, evening outfit -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This is an example of machine made Torchon lace which is the simplest form of bobbin lace and is also known as Beggars lace; the Dutch call it Stropkant. The thread used is thicker than embroidered laces and was originally worked with linen thread but is now made of cotton. Due to it being relatively less expensive than other laces and its softness, Torchon lace was used mainly by the middle classes as an insert on nightcaps and nightgowns and as a trim on bed linen as well as undergarments. Torchon is usually the first type of lace that a lace maker learns, but since at least the earliest 20th century commercial quantities have been made by machine and were virtually indistinguishable from those that were handmade. This example would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it makes perfect copies of Torchon and the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929length of lace, machine made, geometric design with two selvaged edges, repeat motif of ovals surrounded by crosses.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
At 9cm in width this delicately patterned length of light lace trim seems ideally suited to trimming a baby’s christening gown or a cradle. This embroidered style of lace was rarely used on fashionable garments but more widely used on bed linen and undergarments and judging by the creases in the lace, it is possibly made of silk which would have made it very expensive. There were two types of embroidery machines, the earliest was the Hand Embroidery machine invented by Joshua Heilman in France in 1828. It makes a perfect copy of hand embroidery except that all of the pattern repeats are exactly the same. The second type and the most likely to have been used for this piece is the Schiffli Embroidery machine Invented by Isaac Groebli in 1865 in St. Gallen, Switzerland. The first machines were relatively small and could be operated by a couple of people, mostly women but by the beginning of the 21st century they could be up to 18 metres in length and work with over a thousand needles. Most machine embroidered laces are made using the Schiffli machine and Nottingham in England, Plauen in Germany and St. Gallen in Switzerland still produce a great deal of embroidered lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of wide lace trim with dots on net ground and selvage edge, other edge complex scallop. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess