More than Bombs and Bandages, Australian army nurses at work in WW1, hard cover with dustjacket, 344 pages published by Big Sky publishing with black and white photographs, with inscription and signature of author Kirsty Harris.Kirsty Harrisaustralia, military, nurses, australian army, ww1, nursing.

3. 2 trucks have the 3rd MD TAC Sign, 1 truck has the TAC sign with 7 on it. Passchendaele Barracks was the name of the Army Drill Hall, Mollison Street, Bendigo. The drill hall was in use 1916 - abt 2004.1. Side view of international MK3 Army Truck 4 x 4 set up for troop or general service work. Canvas cover is on. Coloured photo taken in the Mollison Street Depot yard. Photo is mounted on stiff cardboard. 2. Side View of Army Commercial Ford Truck. Cabin tilted forward to enable access to engine (Ford CL 400). 3. Group photo in colour, of 5 MN3 trucks lined up on the road beside the Mollison Street Drill Hall,. 1. On the rear is a 'stuck on' label "International 2 1/2 tons GS MN3 Bendigo Deport Yard". 3. On the rear is written "Convoy Inter MK3's in Mollison Street Bendigo. trucks, cmf, passchendaele barracks trust

School exercise book with stiff boardcovers. Centre stitched. Pale and dark green Edwardian graphic design, with hand written inscription on front and inside cover. Ink on front and pencil inside cover - all work in black ink.Front: Lizzie Pilkington, State No. 888 {school}|Inside cover in pencil: Lizzie got her bangle for getting excellent all through the book. 1902.books, school/educational

Yields information about the rostering of crews for a specific week, which staff member undertook which shift or table, for both conductors and motormen.Typed - carbon copy - sheet foolscap size, titled "Rotation Roster 11th January 1971", dated 4th January 1971. Shows the allocation of tables to the various crews, including reallocations and those on Annual and Sick leave or work cover. See also Reg Item 3634 for a May 1969 sheet - not all names survived. Has been ruled to divide the sheet. Turnball A Hamilton N Reynolds H Thompson D Maher J Ward W Smerdon H Billman J Knight R Robe N Williams T Davies W O'Leary D Nancarrow W Courtney R Gill W Blackman M Van Rooy E Cahill M Lake E Williams R Reed A Domaschenz D Wallis I Morris A Munn B Hall R Hunt N Bird L Jeffreys A Van Rooy A McGregor D Van Oorschot Seagrave W Knight H Chambers D Davies S Mason J Tierney L Mercer A Walker L Trenfield I Powell D McMahon L Melville Tuddenham Butler K Morris R Newell W Everett D trams, tramways, rosters, personnel

The first edition of this magazine was produced by associated elementary schools in the Omeo Shire. The magazine was published from 1920 to 1927 and 1963 to 1969. There was a special issue in 1985. In all issues there is writing by children from schools that have since closed down. This is the seventh annual edition of the magazine. This item reflects the changes in education in East Gippsland and is a useful comparison tool for literacy teaching. It also has historical articles for research.A 68 pp magazine with a pale yellow and olive green coloured cover. In purple print is a schoolhouse on top of a hill overlooking a gap in the hills. It contains articles on local history, b/w photographs and examples of children's work. On the front cover is the price 2/-.paper card ink

This is a programme of a concert given by the pupils of the Frances Sinclair Dancing Academy in Warrnambool. The programme included orchestra and other musical items, dances, short skits or plays and solo singing. Most of the pupils of the dancing academy were young girls. The title of the concert, ‘Lyndoch Revue’, may indicate that the proceeds of the concert were given to the Lyndoch Aged Care Centre in Warrnambool. This programme is of interest because it is a good example of the type of concert given by pupils of a Warrnambool dancing academy in the mid 20th century. The donor of this item, Lynette Wright, nee Bristol, was a performer in the concert, one of the ‘petite ballerinas’. This is a buff-coloured sheet of paper folded in two to make four pages. The edges of the first and third pages have red decorative scroll work and the front cover has an image of a 19th century lady doing needlework. The lettering is in brown type. The edges of the first and third pages are torn. ‘Lyndoch Revue, Produced and Directed by Frances Sinclair’ frances sinclair, history of warrnambool

These booklets were produced in 1896 by the Warrnambool photographer, Joseph Jordan as a souvenir of Warrnambool with three of them being also souvenirs of the 1896-7 Warrnambool Industrial and Art Exhibition. Joseph Jordan, born in England, took up photography whilst on military service in India. In 1890 he set up as a professional photographer in Warrnambool and became well-known for his family portraits and official photographs of civic dignitaries in the town. He retired in 1916 and the business was continued by his son, Arthur. The Warrnambool Industrial and Art Exhibition was held over three months in 1896-7 in the civic buildings with some temporary buildings added. 70,000 people were said to have attended over that time with concerts, operas, art and sporting competitions and many exhibits. Joseph Jordan had the exclusive rights to publish a souvenir booklet. These booklets are of prime importance because:- 1. They are invaluable pictorial records of Warrnambool and district in the late 1890s. 2. They contain valuable advertisements which give us pictorial representations and other information on businesses in Warrnambool in the late 1890s. 3. Three of them relate directly to the Warrnambool Industrial and Art Exhibition and contain an article dealing with the Exhibition. 4. They contain a written description of Warrnambool in the late 1890s. 5. They show the work of one of our most important photographers, Joseph Jordan and probably also the work of his son, Arthur. These booklets have been published in 1896 by the Warrnambool photographer, Joseph Jordan and contain 15 pages of black and white photographs of Warrnambool and district, many advertisements for local and Melbourne business and an article of the town of Warrnambool. Three of the booklets also contain information on the 1896-7 Warrnambool Industrial and Art Exhibition. Booklet One and Two – dark red hard cover with the title in gold and ornamental scroll work. The cover printing of Booklet Two is almost obliterated. The books are glued and reinforced with string. Booklets Three, Four and Five – soft covers in beige tonings with the title in black print and featuring ornamental scroll work with a sketch of a bird. The covers have much foxing. The booklets are bound with black and brown tape. Booklet One: ‘Ivy Morden’ Booklet Two; ‘Mr Peter Gibbons’ joseph jordan, warrnambool industrial and art exhibition

The actual history of this object relating to Warrnambool is unknown at this stageSome photos have been identified as local people from WarrnamboolLeather bound. Brown. Engrave with Gold and Black. Ornate scrolled, embossed work on cover with The words The Colonial Family Album on the front, back and spine engraved. Metal locking clasp is broken. 23 pages. Binding in blue tape. Each page is highly decorated changing on each page, facing pages match each other, colours used are gold, red, blue, pink and green. Photos are taken mid 1870's to late 1880's by photographers from Melbourne, Portland & Ballarat. Sepia photos, 20 large frames of men & women, 20 small oval & round topped oblong frames. Collection of Women, Men, Teenagers and children. Each photo slides in from the bottom of frame through a small slot.album. photographs. photographers. ornate art work., warrnambool historical society

This is a book written by Caroline Jordan about colonial women artists in Australia. It gives information on women artists whose achievements have been discounted in the past because they were labelled ‘amateurs’. This book is of interest because it provides information on colonial women artists and has important background details that will be useful to those studying early women artists in other towns and districts. The author visited Warrnambool as part of her study of early women artists. This is a hard cover book of 224 pages. It contains sections on Acknowledgements, Prologue, five chapters, Epilogue, Abbreviations, Notes, Bibliography, Sources of Illustrations and Index. The cover is cream-coloured with gold lettering and the dust cover has a grey background with a colour image of an artist’s work on the front cover and a colour image of a woman on the back cover. The book has many black and white and colour illustrations. women artists in australia, caroline jordan

Art Collection Previously located in History HouseThe painting depicts a body of water with two large trees in the foreground. The two trees are situated on the left side of the riverbank which extends across the foreground of the work. The trees extend beyond the borders of the work with only a few branches visible at the top of the work. To the right of the trees, on the surfaceof the water, is a boat with a large white sail. The river bed continues on the left and right sides of the work and is covered with brown trees. The background features a distant view of the riverbank covered in blue trees. The work has a gilded ornate frame with cardboard and gilded mount and glass.Front: A.S. Murray plaque attached to frame: SCENE on the RIVER MURRAY Back: W. HAMER __________Street, Ballarat

Set of three, "Ballaarat Begonia Festival" programs for .1 - 3/3/1978 to 13/3/1978 .2 - 29/2/1980 to 10/3/1980 .3 - 27/2/1981 to 9/3/1981 Note the spelling of the word "Ballarat" is with two a's in the official part of the programme. All programmes printed on newsprint, with some colour work on the cover, giving details of the events on a day by day basis, many advertisements of local sponsors, places to see (eg Ballarat Tourist Tramway), 1980 and 1981 have advertisements for the BTPS. The 1981 programme contains a printed sheet titled "A Tourist Guide Map of Ballarat". trams, tramways, btps, begonia festival, festival program

Eight Page A4 size printed report on the progress of the reconstruction of Horse Tram No. 1 produced during 1988 about the work being carried out by the BTPS. Consists of two A3 sheets printed both sides and folded to form an A4 size report. Includes work to date, some notes on the horse trams, sponsors, the Ballarat Vintage Tramway itself. Eight photos included, showing the completed under frame, Bob Prentice, Dave Macartney, Gary Wood and Jacqui Edwards and other stages of the work. On rear cover has a Telecom logo, being one of the sponsors. 2nd copy added 6/2/2005.trams, tramways, horse tram no. 1, reconstruction, btps, conservation

Newspaper Clipping - set of nine sheets of newspaper clippings adhered to both sides of a sheet of ruled quarto paper with punched holes on the left hand side - various newspapers, mainly to do with Tom Pesteranovich and his black listing following working during a strike, industrial courts, use of University students, Conductor John Brooker also black banned, stop work meetings, . Also covers new train fares, St Kilda Junction works, derailments on the rail system, fire damage to rail bridges and a note inviting people to join Puffing Billy. See also Reg Items 2561 and 2693 for further items on this industrial matter.trams, tramways, mmtb, kew depot, unions, drivers, strike, st kilda junction, fares, railways, derailments

This is a novel written by Ethel Patricia Stonehouse under the name of Lindsay Russell. She was born in Nhill in 1883 and was educated at Charlton State School. From 1894 on she wrote verse and short stories and worked as a journalist in Melbourne. She published her first novel in Melbourne in 1912 and lived for a time in London where she met Dr John Scott whom she married in 1914. After the First World War she came to live at Mortlake and her novel writing ceased. Most of her novels are about women rebelling –against Catholicism, Calvinism, the English class system and the restraints of marriage. Her railings against the Catholic Church and the oppression of women caused her to be a controversial figure, especially in Mortlake, but she was a popular novelist with one of her books, ‘Smouldering Fires’, selling over 100,000 copies in Australia alone. She died in 1964. No details on the inscription or the recipient of the book, ‘Isie’ have been found. The name, ‘Glasgow’ suggests that the book at some stage was connected with the Glasgow family of Wangoom. They were important local dairy farmers and cheese makers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.This book is of great interest because it was written by an Australian woman and one who lived for many years in Mortlake, a town close to Warrnambool. The connection with the Glasgow family is also of interest. This is a hard cover book of 320 pages. The book has a dark blue cover with gold lettering on the front cover and spine and some gold scroll work on the front cover. The book has a Prologue and 22 chapters and contains advertisements at the front and the back of the book for other books published by Ward, Lock & Co. There is a black and white illustration at the front of the book with a piece of tissue paper covering it. The page at the front of the book that contains an inscription is detached. The inscription and another annotation are written in black ink. The cover is partly detached from the pages and the cover is marked and worn. ‘To Isie Wishing her many happy returns of the day From Father, 15-9-14’ ‘Glasgow’ lindsay russell, ethel stonehouse, history of mortlake, australian literature, warrnambool history

This book provides in chronological order the development of the Kiewa Hydro-electricity scheme from the first concept (1911) to final construction work (1961). It covers the first attempt to utilise the power of the Victorian Alps water system. It started from a private syndicate and developed to the current State Electricity Commission of Victoria. The incentive for the Hydro scheme was to make money and not as an alternative to the carbon producing coal fired power plants. These coal fired power plants were increasing in numbers to service an ever increasing demand made by population expansion, especially in cities and large rural settlements. This demand spiraled up after World War II when there was a tremendous spike in immigration numbers due to refugees and displaced persons in Europe. The ability to utilise the untapped water provided by the winter snow fields, for a higher yield in electricity, was a powerful incentive to overcome the physical hardships in this remote Alpine region. Future power requirements may initiate the re-installation of the other two power stations(Pretty Valley and Big Hill) covered in original Scheme. This publication not only covers the development of the Kiewa Valley region with respect to population (within a socio-economical framework) but also the subtle but yet strong physical changes of a relatively pristine alpine region. The demands that an ever growing regional population places on the environment is clearly documented in print and black and white photographs. The working and living conditions of those who constructed and gave life to this hydro scheme is well documented in this book. It may be viewed as spartan now but was relevantly good at that moment in time, especially for those workers fleeing a devastated European environment. The successful planning and consideration to minimising any intrusion upon the natural alpine forests and high plains can viewed as an example (compared to the Tasmanian Hydro schemes) of how future hydro schemes (an inevitable requirement) will proceed. Most rural towns (in the early 1900s) were built by unencumbered rural based citizens, with the exception of Mount Beauty and Falls Creek. These two settlements were brought into life by a State (Victorian) Authority for a specific function and program. They were a gated community, that is, only open to construction workers involved with the hydro scheme. All facilities within these communities were provided by the State Electricity Commission of Victoria. The impact on the social, financial and individual independency of the community, by the transition from the S.E.C .environment to one of local government (Shire of Bright), had in some cases a severe impact.This hard covered book has a green cover with pictures on the front and back covers. The front cover has a coloured picture of a snow covered Mount Bogong taken from the opposite mountain range. The valley between both ranges has a whisk of mist over it. At the bottom of this picture are three black and white photographs covering the construction of the Kiewa Hydro - Electricity Scheme. On the back cover is a photograph, (black and white) detailing the Bogong village and Junction dam containing lake Guy. The inside front cover is a black and white photograph which details the construction of the West Kiewa tailrace tunnel during April 1951. The inside back cover is a black and white photograph of the concrete pour at the Clover Dam circa 1952. All photographs and sketches are in black and white. The pages are approximately 160 g/m2 and those which have photographs are on gloss paper.Book spine: "The Kiewa Story Graham Napier Geoff Easdown" alongside this is a white framed circle with white spokes radiating out and underneath in white lettering SECkiewa valley, hydro scheme, victorian alpine region, electricity generators, graham napier, geoff easdown

This is a photographic image of the three-masted iron clipper Loch Vennachar created by photographer Fred Kruger of Geelong. Fred Kruger was born in Germany in 1831 and migrated to Victoria before his wife, who arrived in 1863. He began working in photography in the 1850s. He was internationally recognised for his work, which covered a variety of subjects. He settled in Geelong in later years, registering his studio in Skene St, Newtown. He passed away in February 1888. The National Gallery of Victoria now holds much of his work. Loch Vennachar: - Loch Vennachar made many journeys from Britain to Australia and was well-known in Australian ports. On one of its homeward-bound journeys from Australia, the ship sank in the River Thames. Its cargo included 850 tonnes of preserved canned rabbits from Warrnambool's Western Meat Preserving Company. The ship was raised and continued trading for another four years. On 14th June 1905, Loch Vennachar departed Glasgow for Adelaide and Melbourne. The last known sighting of it was on 6th September 1875 when overtaken by the SS Yongala; the captains exchanged the “all well” signals. After that, the ship disappeared with loss of all 27 lives, according to a list that was received by Fremantle through the English mail. The list indicated that there were no passengers on that voyage. Sadly, other Loch Line ships med with similar disasters. The list of lost crew on the Loch Vennachar included Thomas. W. Pearce, apprentice, Southampton. His father was Tom Pearce, one of the two survivors of the Loch Ard, wrecked in 1878. Also, Thomas’ grandfather, James Pearce, was the captain of SS Gothenburg at the time of her wrecking in 1875. Consequently, the wrecking of the Loch Vennachar and the Loc Sloy near the southwest point of Kangaroo Island, a lighthouse was erected, officially opening in June 1907. The northern headland of West Bay was named Vennachar Point in memory of the ship in 1908. The wreck was discovered in 1976 by divers from the Society for Underwater Historical Research, over seventy years after being lost off Kangaroo Island.The Loch Vennachar performed a significant role in Australia’s colonial trade, taking goods between Great Britain and Australia. These goods included locally preserved tinned rabbits processed at a factory in Warrnambool for overseas trade.Black and white photograph of the Loch Vennachar at the dock, without sails. (aka Loch Vennacher). Printed below photo "Loch Vennachar of Glasgow, 1485 Tons Reg. AA1 100. T.S. Ozanne, Comander" and "Fred Kruger Photo / Skene Street, Geelong" Printed below photo "Loch Vennachar of Glasgow, 1485 Tons Reg. AA1 100. T.S. Ozanne, Comander" and "Fred Kruger Photo / Skene Street, Geelong" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, loch vennachar, loch vennacher, loch line ship, glasgow shipping co, 1875 clipper ship, loch vennachar image., kangaroo island shipwreck, 1905 shipwreck, fred kruger photographer, photograph loch vennachar, preserved rabbits, canned rabbits, meat preserving company, western meat preserving company, 1901, 1905

Jessie May born on 30th November 1883, Jessie, known as Ma Barrie to her grandchildren, was the daughter of schoolteacher, Thomas John Lang and Mary Elizabeth Coates. In 1896 Thomas and Mary Elizabeth moved to Melton. Mr Lang’s previous school was Coliban SS No 1920. Mr Lang was the Head Teacher at Melton until 1917. In 1910 he was a Committee Member Melton Mechanics Institute and Public Library at its establishment. He was a Life Member of the Melton Mechanics Institute Jessie lived in various locations around Central Victoria, particularly Pastoria and Melton. When her father was Head Teacher at Melton State School no 430, she met her future husband, Charles Ernest Barrie. The couple were married at the Methodist Church Melton on the 23rd August in 1906. They lived in the newly built house beside the Chaff Mill on the corner of Station and Brooklyn Road Melton South. Their eldest child was Mary Ena was born on the 7th of October 1907. IN 1909, Ernest Wesley (Bonnie) was born 29th April (Ascot Vale). In 1910 the family moved to a farm in Trundle NSW. The Chaff Mill was sold to Glover Onians – HSK Ward. Later the original mill was burnt and replaced, and in 1977 a fire destroyed it again and it was not rebuilt. In 1911, the family returned to Melton buying the “Darlingsford” farm in May. The weather was too at Trundle for Jessie. Their address was Elizabeth Street Moonee Ponds. William Cecil was born on the 23rd of February 1912 and Charles Edgar was born on 1st June 1913. In 1916 they lived in Moonee Ponds where the children attend Bank Street School, Ascot Vale. The children developed diphtheria Mary and Bon were transferred to Fairfield Hospital. March 1919 the family returned to live at Melton at the time of the outbreak of the Spanish influenza. Mary, Bon, and Edgar returned to Melton School. Following the death of CEB in a car accident in 1931 she was left to bring up her children on her own; the youngest Jim, aged 9 and eldest Mary, aged 24. Jessie left ‘Darlingsford’ in 1946 when her sons had safely returned from WW II. She stayed at Yarram for a time where her married twin daughters lived when more grandchildren were born and spent the remainder of her life living with various family members. SUMMARY - Dr Ian Robinson OAM Born 26th June 1931 Parents – Keith John Robinson of “Creighton” Melton Mary nee Barrie of “Darlingsford” Melton The family lived at “Heatherdale” Toolern Vale. Their 3 children, Ian the first followed by daughters, Ena May and Mary Elizabeth (Beth) Ian and Ena attended Toolern Vale State School. No 946 The family later moved to Columban Ave Strathmore. During 1942 the children stayed their grandmother’s house at “Darlingsford” Melton. They enrolled at Melton State School No 430 on the 13/3/42 after attending State School No 483 Raleigh Street Essendon. They left Melton School on the 31/7/42 returning to Essendon. Ian attended Geelong College as a boarder after completing his schooling he entered University to study Medicine. His early General Practice was in Melbourne. In 1972 he joined the Royal Flying Doctor at Mount Isa, North West Region of Queensland. The region covered an area larger than the British Isles. He was on call 24 hours for emergencies. He spent three weeks away with calls and in the fourth week attended Aboriginal Reserves. Ian took two Queensland Governors and their wives to spend three nights at the Clinic. Sir Colin and Lady Hannah are still their friends. Area Co-ordinator Ian was awarded the Royal Humane Society Medal along with his pilot when they risked their lives landing on flooded land to save a patient. Ian remained a loyal contributor to the Royal Flying Doctor Service until 1997 He met Queen Elizabeth 2nd in Cairns, and also met Prince Phillip and Prince Andrew in Brisbane. Townsville – Locum Beenleigh – General Practice Open 7 Days 198? -2002 Aspects of his work covered the following – Police Work State Commonwealth Medical Officer TEYS COMPANY Q FEVER. Q Fever presents with flu like symptoms. The 1st Test always came back Negative BUT 2nd Test always positive. Ian lectured other Medicos re Q Fever Council Immunization in schools Covered boxing bouts Large Practice In 2002 Ian retired but continued house calls for older patients. Information from Anne to Beth received by Wendy October 2013 Wendy Elizabeth Barrie Jessie May Lang [Barrie] and Ian Keith Robinson standing in front of a carlocal identities

Has a strong association with tram crews and the rosters crew workings, possibly D.J. Everett. Prepared by crews from sheets to enable them to know what service times to run, meal times, details of crew changes etc, based on their allocated shift or run from the roster.Thirty eight (38) page red metal spiral binding, notebook with card board covers. Each sheet faint ruled, both sides. Front cover had a drawing of a Scots lassie with a Scots terrier on a lead and a drawing of a street scene in the background with the words "Scotland" in script. Rear cover has a drawing of a castle on it. Each sheet, most left hand side only has the hand written details of each SEC Ballarat run - giving sign on times, notes, timetables, which run taken or taken by, meal times, notes with regard to special instructions, finish times and total hours worked. Image 1 shows covers and image 2, one of the sheets with the runs printed on both side of the page. On a scrap of paper, written on the back of a Ballarat Summary timesheet for a Thursday in 1968 is the run details for 22 run. Has been folded into 4. See also Reg item 4073 for a later book and 6876 for a typed versionOn rear cover - phone numbers for M. Morris, Tierney, Tram depot and tram office.trams, tramways, ballarat, rosters, employees, shifts, timetables

These renovations were first discussed by the Bendigo RSL in 1962 - 1963. This Document is headed, “Specifications of Workmanship and Materials required for Painting and Renovations etc, at R.S.S.A.I.L.A Hall, Pall Mall, Bendigo” There are 3 parts to the documents. First section has 22 parts, everything from “Tender - Insurance - Materials - Liability - Condition of Contract to the use of Sanitary conveniences. Second section has sections re “Carpenter and Joiner - Brick work - Plastering - Electrician - Painter and Glazier”. Each has sections under re their work to be done. Third section is a technical drawing of the Soldiers Memorial Institute minus the Main Hall, it shows scopes of work. The main works covered a new false ceiling in the Office, a new front door entrance to the Foyer in a different position, exhaust fan in the Billiard room, removal of a gate at the Stairwell entrance, fire place repairs, adding chair rails to walls to foyer, Committee room. These works were carried out. There was a false ceiling in the Meeting room but there was no mention re this in the above plans. This ceiling was removed during the 2016 - 2018 major renovations to the SMI. The false ceiling in the Office was removed in a major renovation to the room in 2011 - 2012 and taken back to original.Folder brown card covers with six typed in black pages and one map all black print, pages stapled in with 2 binder holes in.On front cover in black pen. "Specifications - Painting & Renovations R.S.L. Premises Pall Mall, Bendigo"brsl, renovations, smirsl

The beach cart was hand drawn by a team of six people; two in front, one on each side and two behind. The wide iron tyres on the the wheels helped prevent the cart from sinking into the sand. The load of heavy beach apparatus equipment was held in place by a separate hand worked rope net cover. It would be stored in the Rocket House packed and ready to use for practice or rescue. Beach apparatus equipment - In the mid-1800s the equipment could include a line throwing set, coiled line in wooden carrying case, rockets, cartridges, breeches buoy, hawser and traveller block, line-throwing pistol, beach cart, hand barrow, sand anchor, crotch pole, and tools such as spade, pick, mallet and hawser cutter. Around the 1860s Warrnambool had a Rocket House installed beside the Harbour. Saving lives in Warrnambool – The coastline of South West Victoria is the site of over 600 shipwrecks and many lost lives; even in Warrnambool’s Lady Bay there were around 16 known shipwrecks between 1850 and 1905, with eight lives lost. Victoria’s Government responded to the need for lifesaving equipment and, in 1858, the provision of rocket and mortar apparatus was approved for the lifeboat stations. In 1859 the first Government-built lifeboat arrived at Warrnambool Harbour and a shed was soon built for it on the Tramway Jetty, followed by a rocket house in 1864 to safely store the rocket rescue equipment. In 1878 the buildings were moved to the Breakwater (constructed from 1874-1890), and in 1910 the new Lifeboat Warrnambool arrived with its ‘self-righting’ design. For almost a hundred years the lifesaving and rescue crews, mostly local volunteers, trained regularly to rehearse and maintain their rescue skills. They were summoned when needed by alarms, gunshots, ringing bells and foghorns. In July 1873 a brass bell was erected at Flagstaff Hill specifically to call the rescue crew upon news of a shipwreck. Some crew members became local heroes but all served an important role. Rocket apparatus was used as recently as the 1950s. This cart and its matching cover is significant for its connection with local history, maritime history and marine technology. Lifesaving has been an important part of the services performed from Warrnambool's very early days, supported by State and Local Government, and based on the methods and experience of Great Britain. Hundreds of shipwrecks along the coast are evidence of the rough weather and rugged coastline. Ordinary citizens, the Harbour employees, and the volunteer boat and rescue crew, saved lives in adverse circumstances. Some were recognised as heroes, others went unrecognised. In Lady Bay, Warrnambool, there were around 16 known shipwrecks between 1850 and 1905. Many lives were saved but tragically, eight lives were lost.Beach cart; a blue and white painted, wooden cart with two, red coloured metal wheels. The wheels have twelve spokes and wide iron tyres. The cart has a long draw bar with T- handles at the end. It was pulled by two people, usually steered by another two and pushed by a further two. It was supplied by the Government of Victoria. There is an inscription on the front end panel.Stencilled in white paint “G of V” flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, lady bay, warrnambool harbour, port of warrnambool, shipwreck, life-saving, lifesaving, rescue crew, rescue, rocket rescue, rocket crew, beach rescue, rescue equipment, rocket rescue equipment, rocket equipment, marine technology, lifeboat, volunteer lifesavers, volunteer crew, lifesaving rescue crew, rocket apparatus, shore to ship, stranded vessel, rocket rescue apparatus, line thrower, beach apparatus, breeches buoy, life jacket, rocket house, rocket shed, rocket machine, rocket head, rocket launcher, rocket line, beach rescue set, rocket set, beach cart, harbour board, government of victoria, harbour master, l.s.r.c., lsrc, rope cover, rope net

Reproductions of various transactions and reports dealing with Aboriginal people in Port Phillip in the period 1835-39, beginning with some of the earliest reports and tracing the evolution of government interaction and policy towards Aborigines in the 19th century. Covers mission work, government reports, the native police, conflicts with squatters, with numerous illustrations and original reports. Contents: Part I, Evolution of British policy Ch. 1. Proposals to appoint protectors of aborigines Ch. 2. Racial conflict in the year of official settlement at Port Phillip Ch. 3. House of Commons Select Committee on Aborigines Part II, The Wesleyan Mission at Buntingdale Ch. 4. Establishment and early operations of the Wesleyan mission Part III, The Government acts Ch. 5. Establishing the first government mission 1835-7 Ch. 6. Food and clothing for the Aborigines Ch. 7. Punishment of Aborigines found drunk, 1836-8 Ch. 8. Operations of the government mission, November 1837 to March 1839 Ch. 9. First attempt to form a native police corps Part IV, Growing conflict with squatters, 1837-8 Ch. 10. The disappearance of Gellibrand and Hesse Ch. 11. Attacks in the Western District Ch. 12. Attacks on the overland routes to Port Phillip Ch. 13. Evolution of policy in Sydney, 1838.b&w illustrations, b&w photographs, tables, document reproductionsvictorian history, colonisation, justice system

Yields information about the track maintenance activities of the track gang in Ballarat, the work they did, notes, names and other information.Invicta Australian 1959 Business Diary, No. 4, printed by Sands and McDougall, light grey Rexene binding strip, card covers, sewn sections with ruled sheets providing a diary for 1959, one week per double page. Has "useful information" sheets at from the diary. Used by the SEC Ballarat track gang to record their daily work, leave, welding, track cleaning, truck driver etc Rear pages - has notes on materials used, costs, scrubber use and hours, and length of track On the inside of the rear cover is a list of Track gang and addresses for 1959. W. H. Goldsmith H. Dowie S. Eaton W. Newell E. Lakey J. Armstrong J. Naus C. Edwards A. W. Cunningham H. Lancaster H. Smith Loose contents 18/5/1059 - Medical Certificate for S. Eaton - dated 9/10/1959, Dr. D. P. Podger 28/12/1959 - Daily time sheet with track work notes Inside rear cover Begonia Festival 1959 brochure SEC Workshop Requisition Misc. notes List of Staff and address - J. Naus added to above list. List of track lengths re top dressing between various lengths.tram, trams, sec, ballarat, depot, trackwork, rails, scrubber tram

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug