During World War II, following the Fall of Singapore in February 1942, the Japanese military detained about 3,000 civilians in Changi Prison, which was built to house only 600 prisoners. The Japanese used the British Army's Selarang Barracks, near the prison, as a prisoner of war camp, holding some 50,000 Allied—predominantly British and Australian—soldiers.[1] Although POWs were rarely, if ever, held in the civilian prison, the name Changi became synonymous in the UK, Australia, and elsewhere with the POW camp. About 850 POWs died during their internment in Changi during the Japanese Occupation of Singapore,[2] a relatively low rate compared to the overall death rate of 27% for POWs in Japanese camps.[3] However, many more prisoners died after being transferred from Changi to various labour camps outside Singapore, including the Burma Railway and the Sandakan airfield.this item is of historical significance because it is supposedly one of the few surving keys to Changi Jail and donated by Mr.Robertson . Changi is significant as it was a major prison camp during WWII Changi Jail Key. Blackened metal key, Wooden tag attached with Japanese print on it. Kanji Characters read Middle Gatechangi, fall of singapore, key, p.o.w.

This tie belonged to Dorothy May Mortlock (VF518245) who was part of the Australian Womens Army Service (AWAS). Dorothy Mortlock was born in Swan Hill and enlisted with the 3rd AUST AWS REC DEPOT.Khaki-coloured tie with pointed end. Rising sun bdage (UA09.5) sits on tie at sternum height.Interior of tie reads "VF518245 MORTLOCK"world war ii, second world war, wwii, women, australian women's army service

Part of a nurses' uniform during the Second World War. No exact matches for a female "W Wilson" were found in research, though the hat could have belonged to Nancy Wilson, born in Carlton to W Wilson.Navy wool felt hat with wide brim and navy grosgrain ribbon band with bow on right side and black rising sun badge on centre front of ribbon. The hat also has a synthetic sweatband on the interior, on to which a cotton label has been sewn with the name "W. WILSON". Elastic chip strap on interior has deteriorated and broken in half.Label on interior reads "W. WILSON" second world war, world war ii, world war 2, world war two, wwii, nurse, medical, women

According to the Australian War Memorial, these types of water bottles were used by the Australian Army during the Korean War, Malayan Confrontation and during the early to mid period of the Vietnam War. The metal lids were often replaced with a much quieter rubber lid, as combat experience proved that the metal ones were too loud when opening or closing. This bottle is recorded as being a United States-issued item so may have been collected during the interactions between Australian and American troops in Vietnam. It is also noted as being of Second World War era, which predates the AWM suggestion of Korea.Thin stainless steel water bottle, oval in shape with flat base. Around neck of bottle there is a brown cotton string and khaki woven cord with the press stud at end which would insert into the top of the lid. Bottle has twist-on lid with a hole in the top. Bottle dinted throughout. Canvas carry case is cylindrical in shape with oval-shaped flat base. Pieces topstitched with khaki thread. Back of case is woven khaki with a long pin threaded through the top, bent into inward facing hook shapes at end. Bottle is fastened into case via press studs. There is a subtle pocket in the interior of the case.Press studs read "LIFT/THE DOT"water bottle, equipment, united states, korea, malayan confrontation, vietnam war, 1960s

Jacket provided as standard issue by the Australian Government for Defence Forces.Green woolen long sleeved uniform jacket with metal buttons, belt and colour patch on sleeveName label reads: P.J. Daywwii, clothing, colour patch, p.j. day

Repatriation General Hospital Nursing Aide Badge. Silver enamel oval-shapped badge with blue ribbon top with Australian Coat of Arms in centre. Rear fastening and small safety chain.Red bar reads: Nursing Aiderepatriation commission logo, staff, nursing

This bowl was probably used by migrant workers on the SEC Victoria Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme circa 1950's. Due to the uneven pattern it can be assumed that this bowl was a cheap imported one possibly from Asia.This bowl has historical significance as a cheap imported mixing bowl or soup/main meal dish that shows the influence of the migrant infusion into the Kiewa Valley, maybe in the "gold rush" era. This medium sized ceramic/porcelain bowl has a gold painted rim and fine blue hair pin patterns and flowers. The pattern has been poorly applied and the irregular top lines appear to indicate an unprofessional alignment. The exterior has a rippled formation which has not been extended to the top rim. bottom inscription too faded to readkitchen bowl, main rice dish, mixing bowl

Catalogue card reads, "Ringwood Motors".

Catalogue card reads, "Heathmont, 1967".

Catalogue card reads, "Ringwood, England."

Catalogue card reads, 'Mayoral Ball'

Catalogue card reads, 'City celebrations'.

Catalogue card reads, "Ringwood Lake".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miner's cottage".

Catalogue card reads, "Miners cottage".

Catalogue card reads, 'Lionswood opening'.

Catalogue card reads, 'Fixing plaque'.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Kettle and lid, iron. Large kettle with hook attached to swivel handle and a brass tap attached to side of kettle. Manufactured by Clark and Co., made in England.Pressed into base "ENGLAND - - - -" (unable to read)flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kettle, clark and co england, cast iron kettle

Material found in the collection when sorting out the Compactus Room May 1997B&W photographic copy of sketch - The Melbourne Glass Bottle Co., the Beach, Emerald Hill (Illustrated Australian News 12 June 1876) Formerly Felton GrimwadeOn read: IAN 12 June 1876industry - manufacturing, melbourne glass bottle company, felton grimwade

Pale khaki canvas type material bayonet holder, also known as a Frog. Has a large darker khaki loop at the top and two smaller canvas loops at the bottom.There is writing on the back that is faded and cannot be read.frog, bayonet holder, scabbard holder

2 colour photographs mounted on board. Accompanied by a caption.Caption reads: 75th Anniversary in 1990.williamstown high school, anniversary gate, 1990

Deep Lead School 1956 Mr Ian Johnson - Head Teacher Back Row: Robert Cray, Edwin Perry, Bruce Richards, Bill Shuttleworth. Centre Row: Tom Cray, Shirley Cornwell, Dawn Shuttleworth, Ian Cameron. Front Row: Ian Cooper B/W Photo 9 Students in 3 rows, 4 Standing, 4 sitting on bench seat, 1 sitting on ground, holding a sign, Adult Male to leftSign Reads: Deep Lead 1956deep lead school, education

Originally located on large oak reading table in the Rowden White Library until the end of 2003. Replaced by brass versions made by Thomas Mintsenikos on 26th May 2004.In 1938 Dr Alfred E. Rowden White contributed 1,000 pounds and his own personal book collection to the University of Melbourne Student Union to establish the library that still bears his name. Rowden White's idea was that students should have access to materials beyond those prescribed for their courses. As Library Rule No. 7 stated, 'Except under exceptional circumstances, the room MUST NOT BE USED AS A WRITING ROOM'One of two white plastic signs mounted on a wooden base with black letteringSign reads 'Please do not study'. university of melbourne student union, rowden white library, signs