Alonzo Box, of Oakleigh ,a nephew of William and Elizabeth Box who resided in 'Box Cottage' 1865 - 1914, married Mary Closter (Kloster), of Oakleigh, on June 12th 1918. Alozo's elder sister, Rebecca, sent a bolt of Chinese hand-embroidered silk from which this wedding dress was made. Rebecca Viloudakia, nee Box, was a missionary in China, and married to a Greek Silk Merchant. Alonzo Box, the 9th child of John and Martha Sheldrake Box , enlisted in the Army and landed at Gallipoli 25/4/1918. He was evacuated to Egypt and then sent to the battlefields of France and Flanders before returning home to Melbourne in February 1918. Rebecca Box, the eldest child of John and Martha Sheldrake Box, was in the first party of Methodist Missionaries to leave Australia for the China Inland Mission in 1890. During the Boxer Uprising 1900-1901 her Mission outpost was attacked but she escaped and was taken to Shanghai. She later married one of the rescue party Nicholas Viloudakia a Greek silk merchant .Australian Dress Register ID 573 12/5/2015 Following Henry Dendy's Special Survey 1841 pioneer settlers bought allotments of land in the area of Moorabbin Parish. Alonzo Box was the nephew of William and Elizabeth Box who bought the cottage on the 30acre allotment from an unknown pioneer settler in 1868 and resided there until Elizabeth's death in 1914. Alonzo Box served in the Army World War 1 1914- 1918 at Gallipoli, France and Flanders. Rebecca Box -Viloudakia was in the first party of Methodist Missionaries to leave Australia for the China Inland Mission in 1890 and was rescued during the Boxer Rebellion 1900-1901 and taken to Shanghai by her future husband.A cream two piece wedding dress made from a bolt of hand embroidered Chinese silk for the marriage of Mary Closter and Alonzo Box on June 12th, 1918. The bolt of Chinese silk was sent by Alonzo’s older sister, Mrs Rebecca Viloudakia, a missionary in China, who was married to a Greek silk merchant. The machine sewn dress was made by a dressmaker in Dandenong, Victoria. The jacket is blouson, with a front opening and is gathered at the waist by a band enclosing a drawstring. The collar is a sailor style that forms a slight / high V-shape front neckline. Four vertical roses are separated by three bands of lacework. The back of the jacket is plain silk. The right front of the jacket has a panel of embroidered roses, band of lacework and a facing fold that encloses 4 fastening presses. There are crocheted bobbles on the front representing buttons. The left jacket front also has the panel of embroidered roses, lacework and matching fold for the 4 fastening studs. The full length inset sleeves are gathered to a cuff that fastens with silk covered buttons. The sleeves have floral embroidery down the outside centre line. The left sleeve has an extra detachable cuff with embroidery on the flounce that matches the bottom panel of the skirt. It is held in position around the wrist by 4 white metal press studs. The skirt sits above the ankle. It consists of 5 panels slightly gathered at the back waistline with a left side placket 21cm with hooks and eyes and press studs. The waistband is lined with petersham and has 6 whalebone inserts. The front of the skirt has small pleats to fit the 3 decorated panels to the waistline. The front has 3 bands of lacework around the lower part. 3 panels form the centre front each embroidered with a different floral pattern. The back of the skirt is plain with 3 bands of lacework rising from the hem, which is sewn with spoke work stitch. The long waist sash/belt is plain silk with embroidered ends and 3 silk balls with crocheted caps suspended on 3 crocheted silk chains. It has a rose knot with 2 metal press stud fasteners. There are a variety of floral designs embroidered on the material including ‘corner motifs’ on the 2nd inner front panel of skirt. brighton, moorabbin, silk, box william, box elizabeth, box alonzo, box mary, kloster mary, closter mary, oakleigh, dandenong, chinese silk merchant, boxer rebellion 1900-1901, box rebecca, methodist china inland mission, viloudakia nichols, anzac landings, world war 1, gallipoli

This girl's white long sleeved blouse made from lace,voile and net and was probably made for a special occasion c1900. The delicate needlework flowers on the net insert on front of blouse and the over sleeves exhibit a high standard of skill. The fine pintucks on the front, collar and cuffs are finished by small white beads sewn around the edges. The eyes for the hooks on back opening seam are hand-sewn The women of the early settler families were skilled dressmakers and made the clothes for their families as they established market gardens and farms in Moorabbin Shire This girl's blouse made from lace,voile and net is an example of the high needle work skill of the women of the early settler families in Moorabbin Shire c1900 A girl's white,long sleeved, tulle blouse,with a high collar stiffened by 4 metal wires. The tulle has pintucks front and back with inserted decorated net panels and sleeves . The long lace outer sleeves have lace edging at the cuffs. The whole blouse is lined with tulle. .The high collar has horizontal pintucks and has small white beading along top and base. The lining tulle has horizontal pintucks and beading and lace edging on the cuffs of the inner sleeves. Hooks and eyes fasten the back of the blouse and ribbon is inserted at waist to produce a flared effect over hips clothing, brighton, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, pioneers, dressmaking,lacework, craftwork, tulle, net, market gardeners, early settlers, craftwork , bentleigh, moorabbin shire , dairy farms, fruit orchards

This very heavy type of iron kettle was hung on a hinged swing-arm, known as a “crane”, in the kitchen fireplace. This type of kettle, with a tap was known as a “fountain”, gave ready access to boiling water. This meant that water could be kept hot all day by the fire, and the water topped up as necessary. The metal arm was swung out from the fire -place to access the hot water relatively safely.This "fountain" was used by one of the pioneer families in the City of Moorabbin.Cast Iron Tea Kitchen, comprising a kettle, with a lid, a hook attached to swivel handle and a brass tap attached to side of kettle. T & C Clark & Co 12 Galls imprinted on lid.T & C Clark & Co

The inclusion of 2 Turkish buttons and the possibility of the belt itself being Turkish seems to indicate that the belt was obtained at Gallipoli. As some of the other badges and buttons are not of Australian origin, the indication is that they were traded during the owner's service.This item is significant in that it has original badges and buttons from uniforms of WWI. The person to whom this belt belonged obviously served at Gallipoli and returned from active service. brass button bearing the insignia of artillery, 2 brass buttons bearing a crescent and star, 1 bearing the outline of Australia with a crown above, 1 plain copper button and 1 brass button bearing the picture of a hand grenade.Belt: Webbing, 2 metal buckles with 2 leather ends and tongues and a leather pocket stitched 7.5 cm from the tongue end. 29 cm from the buckle end there is what is possibly a leather canteen hook, 2 cm wide, 17 cm long, with a copper escutcheon which hooks over a brass knob . Three stripes, top and bottom stripes blue, middle stripe khaki. Pinned to the buckle end of the belt are 5 copper badges: INF / RGA / / 4 / LH and a small crown and 3 brass badges TYNESIDE / 4 / SCOTTISH. On the tongue end are 2 brass buttons embossed with crowns, 1 world war one, anzac, ww1, gallipoli, badges, buttons, uniform belt, turkish uniform, turkish, british badges, tyneside scottish

A block and tackle is a simple but highly effective lifting device, thought to have been invented by Archimedes. These systems were used extensively for construction in the ancient world, and continue to be used today for various applications, especially at sea, where non-motorised lifting systems are highly useful. A basic block and tackle includes a single fixed pulley or block, and at least one additional pulley, linked with rope, to form a complete set. Depending on the size of the load being lifted, additional sets may be used to further distribute the weight.A mid-twentieth example of a wooden block that shows advances in the design of the marine block compared to late 19th century blocks, with hook and pin and its compliance plate meeting the marine standards of the time.Two sheave rope block; two metal sheaves in polished wooden block with a metal inner pin with a ring on top and a bucket on the bottom. Rectangle carved into one cheek with inscriptions on the attached compliance plate with inscriptions. Stamped within a lozenge: "2 ↑ CS"flagstaff hill museum, flagstaff hill village, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, block & tackle, rope, lifting heavy weights, ship rigging, cargo lifiting, two sheave block, compliance plate, marine technology

A block and tackle is a simple but highly effective lifting device, thought to have been invented by Archimedes. These systems were used extensively for construction in the ancient world, and continue to be used today for various applications, especially at sea, where non-motorized lifting systems are highly useful. A basic block and tackle includes a single fixed pulley or block, and at least one additional pulley, linked with rope, to form a complete set. Depending on the size of the load being lifted, additional sets may be used to further distribute the weight.A mid-twentieth example of a wooden block that shows advances in the design of the marine block compared to late 19th century blocks, with hook and pin and its compliance plate meeting the marine standards of the time.Block, three-sheave rope block, wooden with metal sheaves. Metal ring and connecting tab, painted blue-grey. A brass compliance plate is on one cheek. One one side there are eight nails. flagstaff hill museum, flagstaff hill village, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, block & tackle, rope, lifting heavy weights, ship rigging, cargo lifiting, marine technology, marine block, three sheave block

This set of pairs of pintles and gudgeons was recovered from the wreck of the sailing ship Schomberg and was part of its rudder steering system. A reconstruction that includes four pairs is currently on display at Flagstaff Hill. The rudder installation of the Schomberg was almost seven metres tall. A pintle and gudgeon pair is a mechanical fitting that works like a pair of door hinges. One of the uses for this type of fitting is for ships’ rudders. On a ship, one or several gudgeons would be attached to the vertical rudder stempost on the rear of the ship’s hull. On the ship's rudder, an equal number of pintles would be fitted onto it. The rudder assembly would then fit down into the gudgeons on the ship and would be connected to its steering mechanism, allowing it to be moved from side to side and steer the vessel. The SCHOMBERG- The three-masted clipper ship Schomberg was built in 1855 by Alexander Hall and Co in Aberdeen, Scotland, for James Baines' famous Black Ball line. It measured 288 feet (88 meters) in length, with a beam of 45 feet (14 meters), a depth of 29.5 feet (8.99 meters) and 2,284 tons. The mainmast was 210 feet (64 meters) high and the ship carried 3.3 acres of sail. The wooden vessel was constructed with three skins; one planked fore and aft, and two diagonally planked. All skins were fastened together with screw-threaded trunnels (wooden rails). The Schomberg was one of only three clippers wrecked in Victorian waters that operated the England-to-Australia run. It was built to outrun Donald MacKay’s two American-built ships, the Empress of the Sea and the Lightning. It was hoped that Schomberg would make Liverpool to Melbourne voyage in sixty days, setting a record for the voyage. The Schomberg sailed from Liverpool on 6 October 1855 on her maiden voyage, under the command of Captain James Forbes. Her general cargo for Australia included jewellery, spirits, machinery, and 2,000 tons of iron rails and equipment for building the Melbourne to Geelong Railway and a bridge over the Yarra from Melbourne to Hawthorn, and17,000 letters and 31,800 newspapers. She also carried a cow for fresh milk, pens for fowls and pigs, plus 90,000 gallons of water for washing and drinking on board. There were approximately 473 passengers, including migrants for Australia, and a crew of 105. Light winds encountered at the equator dashed the expectations of a record-breaking voyage. On Christmas day the ship sighted Moonlight Head in southwest Victoria and even though there was a deadly combination of wind, currents and unmarked sand spits, the vessel continued on. Then the next day, December 26th 1855, the huge ship gently ran aground on a spit that juts into Newfield Bay, east of Curdies Inlet and the present town of Peterborough. Fortunately, the coastal trader, SS Queen, was nearby and managed to save all passengers and crew. In 1975 Flagstaff Hill’s former Director Peter Ronald and the team of divers recovered many objects and artefacts from the wreck of the Schomberg such as the ship’s fittings, equipment and personal effects including a diamond hidden for years in a communion set. This set of pintles and gudgeons is an example of steering equipment used on ships over 150 years ago, equipment that is still in use in today's shipping industry as well as many other everyday hardware applications.. The equipment is significant for its association with the ill-fated vessel Schomberg, which was wrecked in the local water in 1855 on its maiden voyage. The ship was built for speed and luxury, to sail on journeys with passengers, including migrants, travelling from Liverpool to Melbourne.Pintles and gudgeons, six pairs, plus one single pintle, from the wreck of the SCHOMBERG. Cast iron horse-shoe-shaped fittings with tapered ends. each with metal bars between the long sides. One piece of each pair has a round hollow cylinder and the other has a round solid shank. The single pintle has a tall shank with a pintle hook through it. Some pieces have remnants of grey paint.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, schomberg, shipwreck, pintles, gudgeons, ship's rudder, ship's steering, clipper ship, james bain, black ball line, alexander hall and co., capt. james bully forbes, rudder pintles and gudgeons, rudder steering, pintles and braces, immigrant ship, maiden voyage, peterborough, 1855, marine technology

Bodice (Wedding dress), hand and machine stitched. Silk lined with polished cotton. Slim ruched sleeves - ruched at inner and elbow side of sleeve (hand sewn). Elbow edge of ruching forms two ''frilled pleats'' down the sleeve to the wrist. Wrist edge lily pointed and finished with a 9 cm underfill of cotton lace. Top of sleeves have a leg-o-mutton balloon effect panel sewn at the shoulder and the upper arm. This balloon effect hangs down over the sleeves almost to the elbow. Top of sleeve has an embroidered lace frill hanging over armhole. Two silk bows are placed at the shoulders. Stand-up collar,5 cm deep is finished on each side with a pearl and glass beaded bow motif- 6cm in diameter. Hook and eye fasteners down front-metal loops covered with button hole stitch. Bodice boned with thirteen (13) ''bones''. Each pocket finished with a fan pattern stitching. Linen panel, with a diamond shaped weave stitched at each underarm. Front bodice is pleated from shoulders to centre front. Right front laps across left to fasten with a hook on the left shoulder. This panel is heavily beaded with glass beads and sequins. Over panel from right shoulder fastens with hook and eye at left hip line,with the pleated panel circling the waist.Matching skirt 11400.315.F.Davey & Co, Dress & Mantle Makers, View point, Sandhurst Label stitched at inside waistline of bodice.costume, female, wedding dress bodice

Calf length, waisted purple dress of synthetic crepe fabric with elbow length sleeves. U shaped neckline at front. High rounded neckline at back with centre 8 cm opening fastened with two hooks and eyes. Decorative beading at centre of bodice. Flower and leaf patterns. Bodice has two small pleats at waistline on each side . Padded shoulders. Side opening at waist on LHS with 20 cm metal zipper. Same fabric belt with 4 cm fabric covered buckle of different purple colour. Front of skirt has eight gored panels from the waistline. Back of skirt has three panels. Dress unlined.costume, female, calf length purple dress

Worn black LEATHER AND CLOTH wallet with 2 x press studs containing 3 x Vintage antique metal show, boot and button hooks inside leather wrap wallet. Cattran's Boots Bendigo.costume accessories, footwear accessories, cattrans boots bendigo

Full length sleeveless dress of dark blue fabric with light blue all over embossed floral pattern. Front of bodice made from one piece with two darts from the waist. Back same as above. Square neckline formed by pleated section of fabric (upward facing knife pleats) across the front. The pleating continues on the shoulder panels at the front. 13cm wide at shoulders. The shoulder pieces continue to attach at the back bodice but widen to form a rounded collar effect on either side. At centre back where collar joins, a folded piece of fabric is attached to form two tails of a bow falling past the waist (39cm). A decorative metal clasp with three rows of diamantes is attached at the top of the bow, 7cm below the neckline. On the front bodice there are two decorative rows of diamantes below the shoulders where the shoulder piece joins the pleated section across the front. Front and back bodice dip slightly at centre. Side opening on LHS with 36cm metal zipper from armhole. Hook and eye at top. Fabric piping around waistline front and back. Skirt made of four pieces. Centre and side seams. Gathered into waist (bodice) with series of small pleats random (uneven) knife and box flat seams. Large stitches visible on front of bodice where pleated section is visible. 2cm wide strips of elastic hand stitched inside each shoulder section, attaching front and backs of bodice. Check collar attached.costume, female evening, dress

Green coloured metal ventilated food safe with removable shelves & food hanging hooks.7330-066-028-6019food safe, army equipment

Thin metal spanner, with a curved head and a hook at the end. Badly rusted. Intended for commercial use and as an accompaniment with machinery.churchill island, spanner, tool

A Sickle is an agricultural hand tool used for harvesting or reaping grain crops using the sharp blade in a swinging or hacking motion. It was also used for cutting back forage and other plant growth. They have been used since early Iron Age times and many examples have been found in the Middle East dating back 18,000 to 8,000 BC. This is a bagging hook – a type of larger and heavier sickle used mainly for harvesting of grain. It continued to be used after industrialisation and the implementation of the mechanical reaper. Designed by British manufacturing firm, Brades & Co, and made to be used by the left hand, its age is unknown. Left handed sickle. Blade painted black; handle varnished. Metal ferrule on handle. Hook on blade at handle endB?RADE? BRADER OZ?sickle, harvesting, churchill island heritage farm

8482.1 - Tall metal cylinder with rusted metal handle and hook.

George Barraclough (1907-1981), a landholder from north of Licola, in the Victorian Great Divide, made a number of these spikes, as needed. As accounts were paid, receipts were pasted to the account, the account was impaled on the spike, and the spike was rehung on a nail on a wall stud. All transactions dealing with money were filed in this manner, as an orderly way of tracking items that were usually remotely ordered and delivered on the mail car. George Barraclough used No8 in a number of creative ways, and his durable and untilitarion toasting forks are still in family use today. After George died in 1981 the spikes with their accounts passed to his daughter Linda Barraclough, who archived the accounts and later made copies available for study. Those accounts form a record of the businesses of Heyfield for 1940s and 1950s.This bill hook is of historical significance as a survivor of bush ingenuity and bush filing systems. Commercially made bill spikes were in common use in offices, where they usually consisted of a heavy metal base with an upright pointed piece of wire. Number 8 fencing wire was an important and readily accessible repair commodity for rural dwellers, and achieved iconic status as the most generic method of repair for cars broken down (resort to nearest fence) and was even used to hold houses together. Referring to "No 8 fencing wire" became a type of Australian shorthand for bush ingenuity. It is no longer available, being replaced by 4mm high tensile wire. This item is important both as an example of inventive use of No8 wire, and also as an example of the bush filing methods in use in the 1940s and 1950s. No 8 fencing wire holds a similar position in New Zealand - see Wikipedia NZ at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Number_8_wire A section of number 8 fencing wire twisted to form a bill spike. It has a rounded.base made from several twists of wire in a flat platform, with the remaining wire rising from the centre to form a stem that terminates in a hook with a sharpened point.wire, bush ingenuity, barraclough, licola north

This item can be used for cleaning rubber tubing or to assist with the introduction of rubber catheters and tubing. Mary Howlett (1840-1922) began practising as a country midwife in 1866 in the western district of Victoria. She qualified as a 'ladies monthly nurse' in 1887 and continued to practise as a nurse and midwife until 1920.She began her six months training at the Melbourne Lying-In Hospital. She was known by many as 'Auntie', and her career spanned more than 50 years. Mrs Howlett's midwifery box and contents were given to Dr Frank Forster, and he donated them to the museum collection in 1993.Device made of metal wire with a rounded point at one end and an eye hook the other end.surgery, midwifery

Dr Mitchell Henry O'Sullivan worked in the Victorian country town of Casterton as a general practitioner from 1919 until his death in 1977. He also practiced obstetrics. His son, Dr David More O'Sullivan donated his obstetric bag and its contents to the College in 1999. The bag and contents are a unique time capsule of the type of instruments and pharmaceuticals used in the inter-war period.Metal obstetric tool. Stainless steel rod with rounded large blunt hook at one end and crotchet hook at the other.destructive instruments

Prior to the 1900s, complicated births, particularly where there was a disproportion between the size of the woman’s pelvis and the foetus’ head, often meant the death of the baby and the mother. Instruments for removing a dead or ailing foetus from within the mother were used to attempt to save the mother’s life. The cranioclast, first invented by Dr. James Simpson in the mid-19th century and later redesigned by others, was used for fetal destruction and removal. Fundamentally a strong pair of forceps, the cranioclast was used to crush the skull, decreasing its diameter. In some cases, this would allow normal uterine contractions to expel the foetus; in others, the physicians would use an obstetrical hook to pull the body out of the mother. Doctors disagreed as to the pelvic diameter that would necessitate this drastic intervention, but generally found that 3 to 3.5 inches was the smallest size through which a living infant could pass. Equally of debate was the pelvic size through which the dead fetus could be extracted. When vaginal extraction was deemed unadvisable, Caesarian section would be performed. As caesarean section became safer and more common with the advent of anaesthetics and antiseptic techniques, the use of cranioclasts and obstetrical hooks diminished. (Museum of Health Care, Kingston) Dr Mitchell Henry O'Sullivan worked in the Victorian country town of Casterton as a general practitioner from 1919 until his death in 1977. He also practiced obstetrics. His son, Dr David More O'Sullivan donated his obstetric bag and its contents to the College in 1999. The bag and contents are a unique time capsule of the type of instruments and pharmaceuticals used in the inter-war period.Hinged metal tool with bakelite handles at one end and serrated teeth at other end. The instrument is in two sections. The right or upper blade has a black bakelite handle. There are two screws on the inside of the handle, 5.5cm apart. In the centre of the blade is a screw notch in the shape of a small horseshoe. On the inner side of the blade is a depression extending most of the length. The left, or lower, blade also has a black bakelite handle. There are two screws on the inside of the handle approximately 6cm apart. Mobile metal clasps in the shape of an 'S' , with three serrations, is attached to the distal end of the handle, which enables the blades to be opened or closed. destructive instruments

Metal toy crane hook. Item is rusty.bendigo, gold mining, qc binks, qc binks

Object. A 5 cm long ribbon, woven in a heavy weave, with a .75 cm red vertical stripe on each side, and a 1.5 cm vertical light blue stripe in the centre. Three .75 cm bands of brass metal - a shaped strip at top and bottom of the fabric, with a rectangular shaped clasp in the centre. These three clasps have decorative engraved patterns. The lower clasp- called a suspender, has a circular hook at the bottom, from which is suspended a circular brass fitting, holding a metal link, which is attached to a four sided shape, with letters in a circular shape - HTWSSTKS, Lodge symbols are on each side of this perspex shaped hanging. A 6 cm long pin attached to a loop on the top bar would fasten the badge to a suit jacket lapel, or other regalia.organisation, masonic lodge, brass and ribbon lapel badge

Clothing. Cream kid-leather bound on sides and lower edge with a 5 cm wide light blue grosgrain ribbon,mitred at the lower corners. A Vshaped flap, edged on the Vshape, with a 4 cm wide blue ribbon, and attached to the apron at the top edge with a 4 cm wide blue ribbon, folded in half over the top edge. A blue rosette of the ribbon is attached to the centre of the flap, and there is a blue rosette at each side of the lower edge- all are attached by a 1.5 cm diameter blue silk covered button. A blue, 3 cm wide elastic, with silver coloured hook fastens the apron to an elastic held, silver coloured metal loop fastener.Harvey C.Smith Pty Ltd,. 57 Swanston St., Melbourne. MASONIC REGALIA SPECIALISTS.costume, male, lodge apron

Textiles. Red velvet sewing kit with gold coloured metal clasp at front, and hinged lid. Irregular hexagon shape. Base covered with brwon paper with floral pattern. Inside lid lined with red satin. Inside base lined with red velvet. Contents: Three packets of sewing needles stored inside lid. Base contains two pairs of silver coloured metal scissors, one plastic crochet hook, one button hook with plastic handle, one hole punch with plastic handle.textiles, domestic, red velvet sewing kit

Object. Soft white kid leather rectangle - 29 cm x 25 cms, outlined with a 1 cm wide red ribbon frame, a 2.5 cm blue frame, and a further 1 cm red frame. A metal lodge symbol, 6.5 cm x 3.5 cm is stitched onto the lower corners. A Vshaped is hanging panel overlaps the leather panel. and is stitched into the waistband, and hangs freely. The Vshape is edged by a 2.5 cm wide pale blue grosgrain ribbon, and the ribbon is, in turn, edged with a fine red border. This hanging panel is made from white kid leather, and has a Tshaped metal panel stitched at the centre front, and at the two lower corners. A 3 cm wide cotton tape has a silver coloured metal loop at one end, and a silver coloured Sshaped hook on the end of a 58 cm long, adjustable waistband, to fasten the apron around the waist of the wearer.organisation, masonic lodge, kid leather apron

Clothing. A textured weave, cotton bow, with two rectangular shapes - 9.5 cm x 6.0 cms, with a one cm loop at the centre, attached to a folded double cotton band, 2 cm x 34 cm long, which would fit under the collar of the Lodge shirt. A 1.5 cm diameter silver coloured metal loop at one end of the band, and a silver coloured hook at the opposite end of the band, would fasten the tie in position.costume, male, white cotton bow tie-lodge regalia