Hardcover. Shows Mick Taylor making last-minute adjustments to the rigging of a large log about to commence its journey down the incline to the Marysville Timber and Seasoning Company No.1 mill. Back cover has a photograph of a rail tractor towing a timber trolley along a timber tramway.non-fictionA history of the timber mills along the Yarra Track from Narbethong to Matlock.timber, timber mills, yarra track, narbethong, matlock, marysville, wood's point, wilks creek, great divide, cathedral range, cumberland, foresters, sawmillers, peter evans

Hardcover. Shows Mick Taylor making last-minute adjustments to the rigging of a large log about to commence its journey down the incline to the Marysville Timber and Seasoning Company No.1 mill. Back cover has a photograph of a rail tractor towing a timber trolley along a timber tramway.non-fictionA history of the timber mills along the Yarra Track from Narbethong to Matlock.timber, timber mills, yarra track, narbethong, matlock, marysville, wood's point, wilks creek, great divide, cathedral range, cumberland, foresters, sawmillers, peter evans

In 1898, Queen widow Emma of Holland grant Droste permission to use her royal crest. This tin is at least a second version of the original design made in 1920 and modified a number of times to 1940. The design on the sides is know as 'the Droste Effect." The nurse is reprinted on the Droste tin she is carrying on her tray. The 1920 version has the nurse on the cup. The Droste Effect implies infinity.Production ceased in 1940 when the German Army overran Holland and supplies became unattainable. Tin designed by famed commercial artist Johannes Mussett.Typical cocoa tin sold in Australia between WW1 and WW2. Droste still sell cocoa and chocolates in Australia todayHinged tin box . Highly decorated on all sides and lid. Front: Royal crest of Queen Widow Emma, taking focal point on pale green background. Rear: Commercial badge with 14 gold medals. Words Hamburg 1898, Hague 1898,Brussels 1904 Antwerpen 1901 Grand Prix." Both Sides depict a 3/4 length nurse with large head veil and white arm band on left arm, carrying in right hand, a tray with cocoa tin and white mug with red top band. Left side words "netto 1/4KG Cocao.. Right side words "For Eng. & colonies net 8 oz." Cocoa.Front and left side have words "Droste's Cacao" in large print. Front: words "Droste's Cacao N.V., Droste's Cacao & Chocolade Fabrieken, Haarlem, Holland." Lid had company logo centered with decorative patterns cooking, kitchen, tin, nurse, holland, cocoa, droste, parlor

Green hard covered bookInside front cover "R.F. Symons Holmby Lodge Point Nepean Road Cheltenham"steam, r.f. symons

These rectangular slates of 'beautiful, unusual, expensive, green' American roof tiles were recovered from the wreck of the Falls of Halladale. Salvaging began in 1974 by volunteer divers, using local cray-fishing boats. An efficient system was devised to recover up to 4,000 of the still neatly packed slates a day. Many of the 22,000 salvaged slates can be seen on the roofs of eight buildings in the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village. The iron-hulled, four-masted barque, the Falls of Halladale (1886 - 1908), was a bulk carrier of general cargo. She left New York in August 1908 on her way to Melbourne and Sydney. In her hold, along with 56,763 tiles of unusual beautiful green American slates (roof tiles), 5,673 coils of barbed wire, 600 stoves, 500 sewing machines, 6500 gallons of oil, 14400 gallons of benzene, and many other manufactured items, were 117 cases of crockery and glassware. Three months later and close to her destination, a navigational error caused the Falls of Halladale to be wrecked on a reef off the Peterborough headland at 3 am on the morning of the 15th of November, 1908. The captain and 29 crew members all survived, but her valuable cargo was largely lost, despite two salvage attempts in 1908-09 and 1910. The ship stayed in full sail on the rocky shelf for nearly two months, attracting hundreds of sightseers who watched her slowly disintegrate until the pounding seas and dynamiting by salvagers finally broke her back, and her remains disappeared back into deeper water. The shipwreck is a popular site for divers, about 300m offshore and in 3 – 15m of water. Some of the original cargo can be seen at the site, including pieces of roof slate and coils of barbed wire.The Falls of Halladale shipwreck is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register (No. S255). She was one of the last ships to sail the Trade Routes. She is one of the first vessels to have fore and aft lifting bridges. She is an example of the remains of an International Cargo Ship and also represents aspects of Victoria’s shipping industry The wreck is protected as a Historic Shipwreck under the Commonwealth Historic Shipwrecks Act (1976).Rectangular slates of green American roof tiles, some with a red-brown stain. These are a sample of hundreds of slate roof tiles salvaged from the vessel FALLS of HALLADALENoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, cargo, slate, slate tile, green american slates, building material, wreck point, peterborough, bay of islands, russell & co., 1908 shipwreck, salvage, recover

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Table of contents: Editorial, News and Notes, A few hints on histological technique, Summaries and notes from the mining journals, Professor A. Mica Smith B.Sc., Notes on Victorian geology, The origin of diamonds, Hydraulic mining, Volcanoes, Analytical chemistry notes, Some things we ought to do, Sports, Correspondence, Editorial notes.Pale green booklet of 10 pages. ballarat school of mines, students' magazine, g. e. saunder, w. wallace, j. booth, f. farnell, h. waller, a. h. freeman, w. e. hearman, professor dawbarn, e. gutheil, a. selwyn brown, h. watson, a. w. k. peirce, professor mica smith, w. bradford, henry watson, mr e. faribault, j. h. parsons, j. holmes pollock, t. s. hart, thomas hart, alfred mica smith, a. e. c. kerr, g. g. bonney, histological technique, diamonds, victorian geology, massey-harris bicycles, adelaide school of mines, ballarat school of mines colours, ballarat school of mines motto, ballarat school of mines badge, w.hirt, e. byron moore, britannia gold mine, visitors, j. bryant, premier mine coolgardie, last chance gold mine, g.e. saunder, ivanhoe mine kalgoorlie, black horse cyanide works, edgerton, hercules mine, mount reid, tasmania, f. parnell paul, zeehan school of mines, a.h. freeman, crown point gold mining co, w.e. hearman, parker's range, southern cross, w.a., trappean rocks, hydraulic mining, a.e.c. kerr, volcanoes, f.g. bonney, l.j. austine and co., downer and co, carter and werner

These rectangular slates of 'beautiful, unusual, expensive, green' American roof tiles were recovered from the wreck of the Falls of Halladale. Salvaging began in 1974 by volunteer divers, using local cray-fishing boats. An efficient system was devised to recover up to 4,000 of the still neatly packed slates a day. Many of the 22,000 salvaged slates can be seen on the roofs of eight Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village buildings. The iron-hulled, four-masted barque, the Falls of Halladale (1886 - 1908), was a bulk carrier of general cargo. She left New York in August 1908 on her way to Melbourne and Sydney. In her hold, along with 56,763 tiles of unusual beautiful green American slates (roof tiles), 5,673 coils of barbed wire, 600 stoves, 500 sewing machines, 6500 gallons of oil, 14400 gallons of benzene, and many other manufactured items, were 117 cases of crockery and glassware. Three months later and close to her destination, a navigational error caused the Falls of Halladale to be wrecked, grounded on a reef at Wreck Point, midway between Peterborough and the Bay of Islands, during the night of 14th November 1908. The captain and 29 crew members all survived, but her valuable cargo was largely lost, despite two salvage attempts in 1908-09 and 1910. The ship stayed in full sail on the rocky shelf for nearly two months, attracting hundreds of sightseers who watched her slowly disintegrate until the pounding seas and dynamiting by salvagers finally broke her back, and her remains disappeared back into deeper water. The shipwreck is a popular site for divers, about 300m offshore and in 3 – 15m of water. Some of the original cargo can be seen at the site, including pieces of roof slate and coils of barbed wire.The American slate tiles are significant as an example of cargo imported for use as building materials in Australia. The Falls of Halladale shipwreck is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register (No. S255). She was one of the last ships to sail the Trade Routes. She is one of the first vessels to have fore and aft lifting bridges. She is an example of the remains of an International Cargo Ship and also represents aspects of Victoria’s shipping industry The wreck is protected as a Historic Shipwreck under the Commonwealth Historic Shipwrecks Act (1976).Bundle of slate roof tiles (18); rectangular, green American slate roof tiles, some with red-brown stains. Two tiles both have two holes drilled through them. Two different tiles are thicker than the others. The tiles were salvaged from the wreck of Falls of Halladale. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, cargo, slate, slate tile, green american slates, building material, wreck point, peterborough, bay of islands, russell & co., 1908 shipwreck, salvage, recover

A large green John Sands Pty. Ltd. 1837-1967 '130 years of fine printing' anniversary calendar. The calendar displays some prints of Australian locations including Sydney 1886, Melbourne 1857, Brisbane, Tasmania and Barossa Ranges. Also contains an outline of the history of John Sands company.John Sands Pty. Ltd.australia, history, prints, lydia chancellor, collection, calendar, john sands pty. ltd., printing, history, australian history, prints, sydney, melbourne, kangaroo point brisbane, barossa ranges

Fold out Lubrication Chart for Dodge Brothers Motor Vehicles. Printed in the U.S.A. on cream paper with black card measuring 21.1 x 14.0 for backing when it is folded. Chart has picture of the chassis, engine and wheels and is colour coded. Green for 500 miles or less, Blue for 1000 miles, red for 2000 miles and black for season. Each lubrication point has a circle where it is situated and a line to the name and which oil or grease.document, john bovaird collection - dodge lubrication chart, dodge brothers

Ivory coloured waist length silk wedding bodice with front opening. Silk fabric has alternating striped pattern of chequerboard pattern, running stitch pattern and diagonal woven pattern. The bodice is made of two layers of the silk fabric with cotton fabric lining. The front inner layer has two darts from the waistline. The back inner layer has a centre seam and three darts from the waist on either side. The outer layer on both front and back has three knife pleats falling from the shoulders creating a gathered effect. These side panels of pleated fabric create a deep V neckline by crossing over 5cm above the waist. The V shape neckline is filled with an insert of cream and dark green lace with a floral pattern. The lace insert extends to the throat to form a high round neckline. The neckline is edged with cream coloured woven cotton braid. The side edges of the outer layers are trimmed with cream lace with a floral pattern and 5cm zig zag peaked edges that extends from centre waist at the front, over the shoulders and to the crossover section at centre back where there is a decorative silk fabric flower stitched at the crossover point just above the waist. The front opening is fastened with fourteen hooks and eyes plus another hook and eye offset 5 cm above the waist at the crossover point. Set in long sleeves are in two sections. An inner layer of silk fabric widens to the elbow where two five cm frills of gathered tulle are attached. Each frill is edged with a row of silk stitching. Attached below the frills are two 7 cm strips of lace stitched together to form the lower part of the sleeve. The edge of the lace forms the hem at the wrist. Each sleeve has a 5 cm hemmed V shaped split from the hem at the wrist. The outer layer of the sleeve is bell shaped falling from the shoulder to the elbow. This section of the sleeve is edged with cream lace with a floral pattern and 5cm zig zag peaked edges that are stitched to the fabric of the sleeve. Ivory coloured full-length wedding skirt with train. The skirt is made in two layers. The under layer is made from cotton from the waist with a wide border of silk fabric - 18 cm wide at centre front, widening to 37 cm at the side seams. The back of this skirt extends to a train and the border widens to 48 cm. The border section is lined with cotton fabric. At the centre back, the border has two godet inserts to create fullness in the train. The outer layer of the skirt is of ivory silk fabric with alternating vertical stripes of a chequerboard pattern, a running stitch pattern and a diagonal woven pattern. The lower edge of the skirt is edged with an 18 cm border of lace patterned with embroidered circles. The edge of the lace forms a zig zag pattern of elongated V shaped peaks (7 cm). The front of the skirt dips to a V shape at centre front with the point of the V reaching the hemline. The back of the skirt dips below the front hemline in a U shape over the train. The waist band is made of cotton tape. The centre front of the waistband has an embroidered pattern in silk thread. The centre back opening is fastened with seven metal hooks with six cotton loops plus one metal eye on the waistband. There are two cotton tape hanging loops on either side of the inner waistband. Hand and machine stitched.costume, female ceremonial, wedding bodice

Sepia photograph mounted on brown board. Group of thirty nine females and one male wearing pale uniforms. Most females wearing caps. Some wearing nurses veils. Trees, shrubs and lawn in background. Inscriptions: on front - below photo, hand written in ball point pen 'Bendigo Hospital Nurses'. On back - written in ball point pen 'Matron Esler seated in 2nd row'. Circular rubber stamp, green 'Royal Historical Society of Victoria, Bendigo Branch'. History: Prev. Acc No. GP3.person, group

Black and white photograph on green mount. Two storey brick building with verandahs, parapet. Eight men wearing striped aprons standing at front. Six children at bottom left. Meat carcasses hanging in doorway. Electricity pole. Pole on corner. Tree at L. Tram wires. Inscriptions: in image - on building 'EST. 1859, EW Hands, Butcher, Poulterer', Refrigerating Chamber on the premises'. On back - hand written in ball point pen 'EW Hands Butcher Shop, Crn Barnard and Forest Sts., Bendigo. Period about 1902-04. 'Note carcasses of meat hanging in open doorway on the footpath'. 'Hands 1204 fsp' IN BALL POINT PEN. 'Hands' in lead pencil. (2), 'Royal Historical society of Victoria, Bendigo Branch' Circular stamp on back of photo. 71% reduction copy in plastic bag.buildings, commercial, ew hands, butcher

Small booklet, green cover with golden writing. Bendigo in large letters, Victoria Australia square ornate around. Photos inside: Charing Cross and Pall Mall. Conservatory grounds. Post office and Law courts. Botanical gardens, White Hills. The fountain Charing cross, Pall Mall. Chinese procession on Easter Monday. School of mines and industries. A group of Bendigo mines. View Point. Boring on a gold bearing reef. New chum railway gold mine. Queen statue, Rosalind park. Soldiers 'statue near post office. Conservatory, Rosalind park. Gold Jubilee statue, Pall Mall. on the back cover in pen: Miss E. Briggs, Locksly P.O N.E. Lina(?)bendigo, tourism, various photos

Brown oval cardboard with a picture of fairies, rabbits and an elf. The 3 rabbits and the elf are holding hands and dancing. Two of the fairies are sitting on the grass and clapping hands. The third on is standing against a tree playing a flute. They are in the forest with a stream, white flowers and some toadstools. The picture is in greens, pinks, browns and white. At each side of the picture is a 16 point star worked in yellow/green crochet thread. At the top and bottom is a pink 16 point star worked in pink. Holes have been punched in the card for the thread to go through. At the top is a loop for hanging. Written on the back: Eileen Wilson.cottage, miners, wall-hanging, foster & wilson collection, wall-hanging

These forceps are most commonly used for placing and removing instruments within a sterilization container. They were mainly used to remove smaller articles from gas and, later, steam sterilisers. Larger items, such as dressing trays, large bowls, and jugs, were removed with the larger Harrison's forceps. Cheatle forceps are also sometimes used as a type of dental forcep, to remove hot sterile instruments from the autoclave and place them into sterile pouches.Set of stainless steel forceps with screw joint. The upper blade has a curved 'beak' point, and the lower blade has a square tip. Inner aspect of upper blade is inscribed 'Allen & Hanburys Ltd England 99'Allen & Hanburys Ltd England 99forceps

Clothing. Black suede bracelet length gloves, embroidered with floral motifs in the Beauvais style of embroidery, and as stated inside the right glove, ''REAL BEAUVAIS POINT HAND MADE 927 6/14. Embroidery made with a hook. Fifteen tiny flowers in shades of blue, pink, red, green, are scattered across the top of the gloves.REAL BEAUVAIS POINT, HAND MADE 927 61/4 RIGHT GLOVE. MADE IN FRANCE 927,Left glove.costume accessories, female, bracelet length black suede gloves, beauvais is a french term for a form of tambour embroidery, which is decorative needlework technique using a hook.

Clothing. Double sided silk woman's scarf. One side of cream coloured silk has ten clusters of embroidered silk flowers each end. The reverse side of pink silk has a row of ruffled dark pink ribbon across each end (18cm above hem). The row of ruffled ribbon has a circular loop in the centre and half loop on each side edge. Along one long edge are three decorative pink rosettes of ruffled ribbon. The middle rosette joins the two sides of the scarf together 20 cm from the centre point to form a small hood section. At the centre of the scarf on this side above the hood is a 28cm tassel of pink and green silk cotton strands attached by a 4cm cord of twisted pink silk cotton. At each end of the scarf is a 15cm fringe of pink and green silk cotton strands.costume accessories, female, woman's silk scarf

Clothing. Floor length silk costume. Purple silk bodice front and back with 16 cm slit at centre back from neckline. Round neckline edged with pink satin binding. Unshaped bodice dips to dropped waistline. Bright green silk skirt gathered slightly onto bodice. Triangular pieces of green silk gathered onto arm holes to form sleeves. The sleeve is open along the top edge and point of triangle ends underneath the wrist. No fastenings. No shaping.costume, female, floor length green silk costume

Clothing. Floor length silk costume. Purple silk bodice front and back with 16 cm slit at centre back from neckline. Round neckline edged with pink satin binding. External tucks (3cm) extend over shoulders to half way down bodice on front and back. Bodice extends to a dropped waistline. Bright green silk skirt gathered slightly onto bodice. Triangular pieces of green silk fabric gathered onto arm holes to form sleeves. The sleeve is of the triangle open along the top edge and the point of the triangle ends underneath the wrist. No fastenings.costume, female, floor length silk costume

Green coloured hardbound Book / gold lettering -Orient Guide /-front and back inside covers show - Orient line of Royal Mail Steamships Henry Jones & co Agents for Orient Line , View Point , Sandhurst , Orient Line of Royal Mail Steamships' / Title page shows 'Orient Line Guide -Chapters for Travellers by sea and land , Illustrated . The third Edition, Re- written, with maps and plans. Edited for the Managers of the Line by W.J.Loftie, B.A., F.S.A., Author of 'A History of London ‘, 'Windsor ' 'Authorised guide to the Tower 'Etc. Etc. . . . Price 2/6 London : Sampson Low , Marston , Searle , & Rivington , Limited , St. Dunstan's House , Fetter lane , Edward Stanford , 26 , & 27 Cockspur St . S.W. 1888 Entered at Stationers Hall / this page also has a rubber stamp ' Eaglehawk Public Library / first page of chapter 1 shows 'With compliments of Henry Jones & Co , View point Sandhurst / contents include a list of Orient Line Steam ships , illustrations and ships 'plans ,maps , advertsorganization, business, -orient guide / orient line of royal mail steamships henry jones & co agents for orient line , view point , sandhurst , orient line of royal mail steamships' / w.j.loftie , b.a., f.s.a. , author of 'a history of london ' / sampson low , marston , searle , & rivington , limited , st. dunstan's house , fetter lane , edward stanford , 26 , & 27 cockspur st . s.w. 1888 entered at stationers hall /henry jones & co , view point sandhurst

The origin of this statue is unknown, but it may possibly be German.Carved wooden figurine of a doctor holding a baby. The doctor is male, and is wearing spectacles and full surgical attire, consisting of a green surgical gown and cap, with a white surgical mask. Brown trouser cuffs and black shoes are visible below the gown. The doctor is holding a baby by its ankles in his left hand, and is holding his right hand as if about to pat hit the baby on the bottom. The baby is facing the doctor, head pointing towards the ground. Sticker on base of figurine bears the handwritten initials 'MW'.obstetrics

Green canvas bag with pockets for pencils/pens on front, and pouches inside. Handle on top, also shoulder strapBroad arrow (pointing UP) on flapsatchel

Ticket for admission to St Kilda Strong Post at Anzac (1914) welcome Cream and blue/green card that has discoloured with age, printed in blue on one sideanzac, anzac (1914) welcome