A photograph of the earliest "Back to"/reunion for Orbost Higher Elementary School/Orbost Secondary College.The photo is of ex pupils who were at the school when it was first opened in 1912.People in the photo are Dorice Napier (1st L), J.Irvine,? Cumming, Lexie Nixon, Ila Cowell, Arthur Reynolds, Annie Nixon, Dorothy Cameron, Nina Johnston and Pear Napier(nee Cumming -4th L)It is of Historical significance because apparently it is a photo of the earliest "back to/reunion" for Orbost Secondary College.It is of Social Significance because it is a photograph of people who attended Orbost Secondary School.A black and white photograph of nine ladies and one man standing around a table with a large two- tiered cake on it with candles around the base.Hand written on back, hard to read and some words crossed out- "Earliest Pupils H.E.S.1912.Arthur-Reynolds Nina-Johnston/D.Napier J.Irvine ? Cumming- Lexie Nixon/Ila Cowell/Annie Nixon/Dorothy Cameron,"education-orbost orbost-high-school

In the days before battery powered torches many used a slush lamp to provide the light they needed to carry out their duties. It held a flammable liquid like paraffin. When the wick was lit the slush lamp provided sufficient light.Slush lamps were designed to be carried around but they could be dangerous because they have flame as a source of light. This is an example of a portable lighting device in common usage before the use of batteries.A black metal slush lamp with two glass panels and a stock. At the back is a hinged door. There is a hole on top caused by rust or being burned through. Kerosene or oil was probably the fuel used.On top of light - Serial No 339220slush-lamp lighting kerosene oil

3160.1 - front row right - Bet Gilbert P. Richardson. 3160.4 - back - Alice Hammill; Marion Nixon; Bel Kerr; ?; Annie Malcolm; E Gall front - Marion Gilbert; Pen Gilbert; Elsie Pardew; Jean Frewin 1923 These photographs are of students of Orbost Elementary High School. . During 1910-11 the first approaches were made to the Department for the establishment of a HES in Orbost and this became a reality in 1912. Orbost HES supplied post-primary education in the district until a high school was built in 1948. Orbost High School / Orbost Secondary College has played a significant part in the education of senior students in the Orbost district . It is the sole senior educational institution. These photographs are representative of its history.They are also associated with sport in Orbost in the first half of the 20th century.Four black / white photographs. 3160.1 is of three rows of young girls in uniforms - possibly sports uniforms. In the back row standing second left is an older woman - a teacher. 3160.2 is of two rows of girls in uniforms. Each girl in the front row is holding a hockey stick. A small square has been cut out - the head of the girl in the middle of front row. 3160.3 and 3160.4 show two rows of girls - the front row sitting and the back standing. There is a trophy on the ground middle front. all photographs have been taken outside.3160.3 - on back - Pen 6 Mary 4 Marion Gilberts 4 14 @ 5/- day sport-orbost recreation-hockey orbost-elementary-high

This is a photograph of the original Orbost / Snowy River Bridge , a suspension bridge which opened in 1893. It has been taken when the Snowy River was in flood. It is similar to other photographs held in The State Library, Victoria. The Snowy River Mail and Tambo and Croajingolong Gazette Sat 12 Aug 1893 records the opening of this bridge as "the most important public event that has yet been commemorated in Eastern ......The Messrs McLeod, with whom the first settlement of this district is generally associated, took up their residence on the eastern bank of the Snowy River about the year 1841 or 42. The late Mr W. Roadknight and Mr T. T. Stirling took possession of the territory on the western side of the Snowy about 35 years ago. During the occupation of the country by cattle owners, very little progress was made in the way of roads and bridges, and except to the hardy and lexperienced bushman, it might have been generally regarded as inaccessible. About the year 1877, however, the late Mr James Robertson eldest son of Mr James Robertson, of Lochend farm, selected land now occupied by his father, about four miles from Orbost on the west bank of the river, Mr John Cameron visited the. district shortly after a .tour of inspection and returned later with his brothers, James and Alick Gameron, but found that during their absence Mr Ernest Watt had found his way on the scene and pegged out a selection, thus anticipating the advent of the Camerons by about 12 hours. We understand that a Mr Kidd, who selected the property now occupied by Mr W. J. Ross, at Pumpkin Point, was one of the earliest batch of settlors.........."This is a pictorial record of an early bridge across the Snowy River at Orbost.A black / white photograph of a suspension bridge with flood waters below the bridge.orbost-bridge suspension-bridge snowy-river

Snowy River Shipping Company formed in 1880. They were soon shipping produce (mainly vegetables) from the area to Melbourne. The Snowy River Shipping Company was formed by Mr Henry James during the 1880s, with Captain McNeil as master. Captain McNeil was an always cheerful Marlo identity and local children had many times sailing with him on the river. Captain McNeil with tug went out through the entrance and brought in the schooners.This photograph is associated with an early Marlo identity.A black / white photograph of five people, three men and two women, standing in front of a wooden cottage. The man on the left is wearing what appears to be a ship's captain's uniform.on back - "Capt. McNeil in front of house, Marlo, July 1897"

Link with item 1178. This is a surveyors' camp in the McCulloch Ranges, Murrangowar, April, 1897. Included in the photograph are: L. Thorn; Pearson; L. Coburn, Clem Bates; Sam Blacklock with a packhorse. They were surveying for a road or railway. Surveyors were among the first European settlers to arrive in Australia. A Surveyor-General was present on the First Fleet, as well as the first two ships which landed in South Australia. These men were issued with instructions to record observations in a journal that included the country’s general appearance, its soil, flora and fauna and the customs and language of local inhabitants. The conditions they worked in were harsh and they embarked on journeys with drays carrying cumbersome surveying and camping equipment, spending months camping out in the bush and mapping the land. It was not until well into the second half of the nineteenth century that the professional training of surveyors became mandatory in Australia.This is a pictorial record of a surveyors' camp in the late 19th century.A black / white photograph of a group of men standing in front of a tent / camp in a dense bush setting.surveyor's-camp-mccullochs-ranges-murrangowar land-settlement

These items are from the estate of Norma Adelaide Scott (nee Johnston) ,January 2, 1925 - May 18, 2018 (93 years old) who died in Orbost. Norma was part of the Morris family who came to Newmerella in 1888, had land on Grandview Road and on the flats. Mr Morris had been a school teacher at Lake Tyers Mission before coming to Orbost. "Bobs y’r Uncle" was a nursery rhyme game designed by Frank H. Simpson for John Waddington Ltd. in 1935. The game was especially designed for children. The cards had scenes from nursery rhymes and six cards were needed to make up each rhyme in a set. Games turned out to become an important part in the progress of Waddingtons, who eventually acquired the rights to Monopoly in the UK, and then published Cluedo, opening the way for their supremacy in the toy industry These items are examples of common household items used in an Orbost family in the first - mid 20th century.3228.1 is a wooden tray with handles. The tray is lacquered and hand - painted with green leaves and orange flowers. 3228.2 is a brush with a curved wooden handle, lacquered and decorated in a similar pattern of green leaves and flowers. 3228.3 is a small wooden tray, lacquered and hand -painted with green leaves and yellow flowers. It is a rectangular shape with raised edging attached on the four sides. 3229.4 is a pack of cards in a red box with a cartoon type drawing of a man wearing a checked coat and hat holding two dogs on leashes.3228.5 is an orange / white cardboard box containing a pair of nylon stockings: box labelled " 'KOLOTEX/ Free-n-eezy" stockings.3228,5 - in orange and white print - "KOLOTEX/ Free-n-eezy/ Clings/ 40 denier/ SEAMLESS/ S-T-R-E-T-C-H" and in black - "NEW guaranteed never to ladder"scott-norma cards-playing hosiery-kolotex-stockings trays-wooden household

Access to the cottages at the lighthouse was difficult and the horse-drawn sled was in use until the 1940s. It was used to haul personal goods as wel as those needing medical attention at far-off Orbost. This photograph could be connected with the Gledhills in the 1930s when a medical emergency necessitated a removal to Orbost. Dr Nettleton was the doctor at Orbost at that time. (there could be a link through donor) Point Hicks is claimed to be Captain James Cook’s first sighting of mainland Australia. The lighthouse was built on the point during 1887 and 1888 and commenced operation in 1890, built from concrete and with timber keepers quarters. It was connected to mains electricity in 1965, and then to solar power recently. Originally access to Point Hicks was by sea. In 1920 a return trip, by land to Cann River, 47 kilometres away from the light station, took two days. By 1946 the journey had been reduced to 36 hours by a combination of horse and jeep. During the early 1950s it was still a 12-hour ordeal. The light no longer works, it was turned off 21 years ago and the Point Hicks lighthouse is now powered by a much smaller, more modern light. the lightkeepers' cottages are used for tourist accommodation.This photograph is associated with Point Hicks, a historically important lightstation in East Gippsland.A small black / white photograph of a horse dragging a sled with suitcases on it. There are seven people walking behind, one holding the reins. They are waalking through a sand dune.on label on back - "Bring Out to Light House keeper from Point Hicks"point-hicks-lighthouse

This snagging team is on the Brodribb River, east of Orbost. The Brodribb bridge can be seen in the background of the Photograph. The Snowy River was used for commercial navigation after 1880 and extensive de-snagging A shipping company was formed in 1880, poling barges upstream until the removal of large trees and branches that had fallen into the river was carried out to make the river upstream of Marlo easier to navigate. "The snaggers played an important part in making the river free for transport. By 1880 Captain Collins, R McNair engineer, J McNair and the two Winchesters were at work with a punt on the Snowy and Brodribb. Mr. Jim Winchester took charge soon after. Early snaggers were Johnston, J Renton, Nat Lynch, John Drew, Hatton, J Scott and Harry Wilkinson. The system used was to use a tree on the river bank as a lever and with heavy manila ropes, slowly to haul the snags out. They were piled up around a tree and burned when dry. The snaggers lived in a row of cottages in Snaggers’ Lane." (info. John Phillips Newsletter March 2004)The snaggers played an important role in the early settlement of the Orbost / Marlo district helping bto open it up to commercial shipping.Two copies of a black / white photograph of nine men on a snagging boat, a flat-bottom barge. In the background is a bridge.on back - "Snagging boat on Brodribb with R.McNair"snaggers-brodribb-river snagging-east-gippsland transportation

Black and white photograph (2 copies)Typed below one photograph: "The last remaining naturally grown gum tree on the Maroondah Highway between Ringwood and the city before it was cut down from out the front of Bill Patterson Motors in 1959. Was a yellow box tree 60 feet high and 75 years old."

Black and white photograph (2 copies- 1 large, 1 small)Written on rear of backing sheet of large image: "Ringwood Coffee Palace (With Ringwood P.O. on left). Typed on back of small copy: "A.E. Walker arrived in Ringwood in 1910 from Gembrook. Bought land and erected shop. In Oct.1913 he sold out to Capt Miles who had erected Coffee Palace on each side of shop. Then rented shop from Miles. Shop later run by Beilby.

Black and white photograph (3 copies- 2 large, 1 sepia postcard) Typed below one photograph: "Whitehorse Rd. Ringwood looking west - 1918" Image shows a variety of shops on left with a motor vehicle and a horse drawn cart out front. Station Master's house at top left.

Black and white photograph (2 copiesTyped below photograph: "Marking out foundations of shops. Left hand corner of Station entrance - 1939".

Black and white photograph of church with man standing outside. Sign stating, "Grand Opening" out front.Written on backing sheet, "Feb. 1965. Sal. Army Hall"

Black and white photograph looking across valley with small settlement. Mountains in background. (2 postcard copies and 2 enlargements). House in right foreground is in what is known now as Wildwood Grove. The dirt track above is Ringwood St. Field above is the football field with diagonal track coming out at Melbourne Street, later Eastland shopping complex. House on left is in Adelaide Street. Warrandyte Road is above it."Typed on back of one enlargement, "Copied from a postcard mailed in Ringwood, 1912, copied 1959. House in right foreground is in what is known now as Wildwood Grove. The dirt track above is Ringwood St. Field above is the present football field with diagonal track coming out at Melbourne Street. House on left is in Adelaide Street. Warrandyte Road is above it." House bottom RH side was still there in 1970 in Wildwood Grove (off Ringwood St). Ringwood Street lower centre to RH side. Field above Ringwood Street is the football field with diag. walk coming out at Melbourne Street. House on LH side in Adelaide Street. Warrandyte above it. Steam at LH from Bently's Steam Joinery at corner Main Street and Warrandyte Road.

Black and white photograph of orchard. House in middle range, mountains in background. Photograph appears to be reproduced from subdivisional brochure. Note inserted in sleeve reads, "It has been pointed out that the mountains are to the east and the view is looking south. This therefore is not a 'straight' photograph. House still exists in Eden Avenue at October, 1996".(3 copies).Typed below photograph, "Panoramic view taken on the estate". "View overlooking Martell's orchard, Heathmont, 1929". Taken from corner Canterbury Rd. and Balfour Ave. looking south. Dandenong Creek just beyond house. Washusen Rd. on right". Written on back of one of the copies, "Heathmont Station Estate 1922". "Station Street, Lisgoold St. Canterbury Rd. Vivienne Cres. Balfour Ave."

This ledger was used bt the Shire of Orbost local government to record Country Roads Board accounts 1950's and 1960's. The item was donated to Orbost & District Historical society from P.R.O.V. as a Place of Deposit (POD) item for safe keeping by a local history group or museum. The shire covered an area of 9,347 square kilometres and existed from 1892 until 1994 when it became part of the East Gippsland Shire Council. Orbost was at first included in the Bairnsdale Shire from 1882 and was later part of the Tambo Shire. Because of travelling distances the Croajingalong Shire was created in 1892 (name changed to Orbost Shire 17.2.1893 with James Cameron as the first Shire President. In 1994 it amalgamated to become part of East Gippsland Shire Council. The Country Roads Board was the government authority for the construction and maintenance of main roads in Victoria between 1913 and 1983. It was succeeded by the Road Construction authority on 1 July 1983 and later merged with the Road Traffic Authority on July 1 1989 to form the Roads Corporation. James Cameron, an Orbost farming pioneer and Member of the Legislative Assembly, fathered the Country Roads Board. This ledger is a hand-written record of accounts for the Orbost Shire local council. It pre-dates computer records. The Orbost Shire Council no longer exists having been absorbed into the East Gippsland Shire Council.A heavy brown coloured ledger with covered wooden covers. it has steel metal binding. Inside are strips of paper marking pages. It contains blue ink hand-written records of monies in/out (?) to Shire of Orbost Council. On the front cover inside a black rectangle in gold print is " LEDGER COUNTRY ROADS BOARD ACCOUNT ORBOST". It is an "Emu Binder".ledger orbost-shire accounts country-roads-board

This creditors' ledger records information about Shire purchases. The purpose of the Creditors Ledger is to provide knowledge about which suppliers the Shire has paid money to. This ledger was used by the Shire of Orbost pound keeper from 1901 -1960. The item was donated to Orbost & District Historical society from P.R.O.V. as a Place of Deposit (POD) item for safe keeping by a local history group or museum. The shire covered an area of 9,347 square kilometres and existed from 1892 until 1994 when it became part of the East Gippsland Shire Council. Orbost was at first included in the Bairnsdale Shire from 1882 and was later part of the Tambo Shire. Because of travelling distances the Croajingalong Shire was created in 1892 (name changed to Orbost Shire 17.2.1893 with James Cameron as the first Shire President. In 1994 it amalgamated to become part of East Gippsland Shire Council. This item is a hand-written record of the accounts of the Orbost Shire local government. It pre-dates computer records. The Orbost Shire council no longer exists having been absorbed by the East Gippsland Shire council.A large book with a black patterned cover with brown binding, it contains records handwritten in ink. These are records of money paid out by the local government. There are typewritten sheets of sundry creditors added to the back section of the book.hand-written on front cover on white sticker - " Creditor's Ledger" on spine in gold on red - "Ledger" ; on black - "Shire of Orbost" accounts ledger orbost-shire-council

Young Farmers is a network of clubs for young people aged 16 to 30. Young Farmers helps people meet new friends, improve skills, participate in their community and have fun. Activities range from weekends away to casual BBQs, field days, balls, farm tours and team events. (ref. Victorian Young Farmers Inc.) Traditionally a debutante ball was held for debutantes to formally come out into society. Debutante balls continue to have a devout following in parts of Victoria, particularly in smaller regional areas.Community dances/ balls are an important part of Orbost's social history and this item reflects that.A white/cream sheet of paper folded in half. It has black print "ORBOST YOUNG FARMERS CLUB DEBUTANTE BALL 5th OCTOBER 1973 President Mr Colin Granter Secretary Miss Helen Codey". Inside are lists of the official party, flower girls and debutantes with partners.dancing ball debutantes-ball

Awards for cheese quality have been part of the dairy industry since the 19th century and are designed to maintain and continue improving the quality and flavour of cheeses manufactured in Australia.Wooden trophy in form of cut-out shape of Victoria mounted on a plinth by two gold-coloured rods. Details of the award printed in black on the shaped area and a small plaque noting details of winner attached to the plinth.Rhodia DIAA Dairy Product Awards 2001/Rhodia Australia Award/Highest Scoring Cheddar Cheese - Mild in Class 7 Base plate - Presented to/Warrnambool/Cheese & Butter Factory Ltdallansford, dairy industry, cheese, warrnambool cheese and butter factory ltd, wcb, rhodia, dairy industry association of australia, trophies

This photo by Jack Eden shows Gary Birdall leaning against his car at Cronulla Beach in 1959. Gary was a favourite with photographers during this period. A photograph of him charging huge Cronulla Point featured on the cover of The Atlantics record BOMBORA.This photograph is of natiuonal significance showcasing one of the most talented young surfers to come out of Cronulla in the early sixties. Gary Birdsall competed in many of the first surfing contests around Australia and today is an accomplished artist.Black and white photograph of Sydney surfer, Gary Birdsall leaning against a car with his back facing the ocean at 'Midway' Cronulla Beach, Sydney.jack eden, gary birdsall, cronulla point

Reno Abellira was one of the top surfers to come out of Hawaii during the seventies. He was noted for his speed and style on the wave culminating in success on the early professional surfing circuit. The twin fin surfboard was a natural progression from the single fin and one of the most popular types of surfboard ridden during the mid-seventies.Reno Abellira was one of Hawaii's top surfers and one if its first professional surfers during the seventies. This rare photograph shows Reno holding his 'tools in trade' a twin fin surfboard.Black and white photograph of Hawaiian surfer Reno Abellira holding the tail of a twin fin surfboard. Abellira is wearing an O'Neil full length wetsuit.O'Neill logo on wetsuitreno abellira, twin fin surfboard, o'neill wetsuits

Professional surfers from Australia Mark Richards (centre) and Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew (right) scrutinize judges tally sheets, possibly at Bells Beach in Victoria.Rare photograph featuring MR and 'Rabbit' two of the world's most competitive surfers during the seventies read what appears to be a judges tally sheet.Black and white photograph with chemical discolouration across top.mr, mark richards, 'rabbit', wayne bartholomew,

The bearer of this ticket was George Thomas Henry Phillpot who was only 17 years old at the time he sailed. George relates his trip, summarised as follows; he caught a bus from Bolton to Manchester, in north west U.K then the train from Manchester to London and the boat train to Tilbury Docks (near Gravesend). On the morning of June 7th 1929 the ship S.S.Ballarat sailed down the Thames estuary and into the English Channel. The next port of call was Southampton, UK, to take on board some technical equipment. The S.S.Ballarat then sailed through the Bay of Biscay. Instead of taking the customary route around the Cape of Good Hope, this trip was going to be her maiden voyage through the Suez Canal. She sailed through the Straits of Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean Sea and on to Malta, where George and others paid a local boat owner to take them ashore for a short time. They then sailed to Port Said , stopping to load cargo, then at night through the Suez Canal. They woke up early the next morning to watch the locals working on the banks of the canal. The excessive heat on board the ship caused much illness. As they travelled through the Red Sea the heat and the smell of oil also caused sickness. On they went through the Arabian Sea to Colombo the capital of Sri Lanka (which at that time was called Ceylon). A Navigation Slip, donated together with this ticket, shows the coordinates for a location 16 miles from Colombo. They again went ashore for a meal at four-pence a head and a bottle of lemonade for a penny. George and another passenger walked to the slums area and were shocked at the state of it compared to Britain’s slums. They then sailed via the Indian Ocean to Freemantle, stopping again, stopping for goods to be unloaded. While ashore they played a game of soccer against the ship’s crew. Then on to Port Adelaide via the Great Australian Bight. Here shopped for suitable clothing under the advice of some Australian passengers. They then arrived at Port of Melbourne on July 20th 1929 and two days later (on George’s mother’s birthday) George left for Warrnambool. He received his Citizenship Award in 1971. He conducted an electrical retail business in Liebig Street for many years; his son William became principal of the accounting business Sinclair and Wilson, on the retirement of Bill Sinclair, and was actively involved in support of many community organisations. His daughter-in-law, Glenys Phillpot, is actively involved in the Warrnambool community and local government. George was one of 3 orphans on S.S. Ballarat. (The daughter and son-in-law of one of the other orphans also live in Warrnambool.). (Herbert B.G. Larkin, whose rubber-stamped name appears on the ticket, later migrated to Australia and passed away in NSW in 1944.)Of Historical Significance, this ticket is for the ship’s maiden voyage via the Suez Canal route (previously the ship travelled via the Cape of Good Hope). It is also the only existing ticket for the "S.S.Ballarat"(3rd) in our collection. Socially it shows the fare, luggage restrictions, conditions and weekly provisions for a third class passenger’s voyage from London to Melbourne, which has research potential. This ticket is also of significance to the Local Community, giving the background of the ancestor of a local family. It was also of Personal Significance to the bearer as he kept and preserved it in his possession for at least 46 years before donating it to our museum, together with a Navigation Slip, a map and a summary of his journey to Australia.Third Class (steerage) Passenger’s Contract Ticket for for passage on board the P & O line’s S.S.Ballarat, from Port of London to Port of Melbourne. The ticket is a thin paper page, printed on both sides, in very good condition. It has creases as though it has been folded. The passenger’s details, date of sailing (7th June 1929), amount paid and signature of the P & O Branch Service’s representative have been filled in. The ticket has information including a list of weekly provisions for the voyage, disclaimer of the shipping company, a list of dangerous goods not to be carried on board and fines. The page has straight edges top and bottom. The side edges are torn along perforations; some of the perforated holes can be seen. Along the inside of each perforation is printed a small fleur de lies, forming a decorative left and right border.The ticket has been stamped in black, No. ‘1040’. It has handwritten details with black pen and ink. The date of departure is written ‘Seventh June (192)9’ for the cost of,’33’ (poind), and the sum of ‘33’ pound is acknowledged as received. ‘Mr George T.H. PHILLPOT’, the age is written as ‘17’, equal to the status of ‘1’ adult, the total number of persons is ‘One’. The fare is handwritten in pen £’33’ and the total £’33’. It has a purple stamp ‘HERBT. B G LARKIN’ and a crossed out stamp ‘FREDERICK WHITE, and a handwritten signature ‘_Seymore’. Under the signature the date is stamped ‘3 JUNE 1929’.warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, s.s.ballarat, phillpot, 7 june 1929, george phillpot, george t.h. phillpot, third class passenger, steerage passenger, herbert b g larkin

This medal for bravery, for rescue of the crew from the shipwreck “Eric the Red” on 4th September 1880, was awarded to one of the crew of the steamer S.S. Dawn by the President of the United States in July 1881. The medal is engraved with the name “Nelson Johnson” (the anglicised version of his Swedish name Neils Frederick Yohnson). It was donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in 2013 by Nelson’s granddaughter. Nelson had migrated from Sweden to Sydney in 1879. The next year in 1880, aged 24, he was a seaman on the steamship Dawn and involved in the rescue of the survivors of the Eric the Red. Nelson Johnson was a crew member of the S.S. Dawn and was one of the rescue team in the dinghy in the early morning of September 4th 1880. Medals were awarded to the Captain and crew of the S.S. Dawn by the President of the United States, through the Consul-general (Mr Oliver M. Spencer), in July 1881 “ … in recognition of their humane efforts in rescuing the 23 survivors of the American built wooden sailing ship, the Eric the Red, on 4th September 1880.” The men were also presented with substantial monetary rewards and gifts. The city of Warrnambool’s care of the survivors was also mentioned by the President at the presentation, saying that “the city hosted and supported the crew ‘most graciously’. Previously, a week after the shipwreck, the Australian Government had also conveyed its thanks to the Captain and crew of the S.S. Dawn “Captain Griffith Jones, S.S. Dawn, The Hon. Mr Clark desires that the thanks of the Government should be conveyed to you for the prompt, persevering and seamanlike qualities displayed by you, your officers and crew in saving the number of lives you did on the occasion referred to. The hon. The Commissioner has also been pleased to award you a souvenir in commemoration of the occasion, and a sum of 65 pounds to be awarded to your officers and crew according to annexed scale. I am, &c, W Collins Rees, for and in the absence of the Chief Harbour Master.” The Awards are as follows: - Crew of DAWN'S lifeboat-Chief Officer, Mr G. Peat, 15 pounds; boat's crew-G. Sterge, A.B., 5 pounds; T. Hammond, A.B., 5 pounds; J. Black, A.B., 5 pounds; H. Edwards, A.B., 5 pounds. Dinghy's Crew-Second Officer, Mr Christie, 10 pounds; boat's crew -F. Lafer, A.B., 5 pounds; W. Johnstone, A.B., 5 pounds; Mr Lear, provedore, 5 pounds; Mr Dove, purser, 5 pounds. Captain Jones receives a piece of plate. (from “Wreck of the ship Eric the Red” by Jack Loney) The medal’s history, according to the Editor of ‘E-Sylum’ (the newsletter of The Numismatic Bibliomania Society “… appears to be an example of an 1880 State Department medal, catalogued as LS-3 (page 322 of R. W. Julian's book, Medals of the United States Mint: The First Century 1792-1892). The reverse is mostly blank for engraving, surrounded by a thin wreath. It was designed by George Morgan, chief engraver for the Philadelphia Mint, and struck in gold, silver and bronze. The one pictured here (in The Standard newspaper, 2nd July 2013) appears to be silver.” The following is an account of the events which led to the awarding of this medal. The American ship Eric the Red was a wooden, three-masted clipper ship. She had 1,580 tons register and was the largest full-rigged ship built at Bath, Maine, USA in 1871. She was built and registered by Arthur Sewall, later to become the partnership E. & A. Sewall, the 51st ship built by this company. The annually-published List of Merchant Vessels of the U.S. shows Bath was still the home port of Eric the Red in 1880. The vessel was named after the Viking discoverer, Eric ‘the Red-haired’ Thorvaldsson, who was the first European to reach the shores of North America (in 980AD). The ship Eric the Red at first traded in coal between America and Britain, and later traded in guano nitrates from South America. In 1879 she was re-metalled and was in first-class condition. On 10th June 1880 (some records say 12th June) Eric the Red departed New York for Melbourne and then Sydney. She had been commissioned by American trade representatives to carry a special cargo of 500 exhibits (1400 tons) – about a quarter to a third of America’s total exhibits - for the U.S.A. pavilion at Melbourne’s first International Exhibition. The exhibits included furniture, ironmongery, wines, chemicals, dental and surgical instruments, paper, cages, bronze lamp trimmings, axles, stamped ware, astronomical and time globes, samples of corn and the choicest of leaf tobacco. Other general cargo included merchandise such as cases of kerosene and turpentine, brooms, Bristol's Sarsaparilla, Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, Wheeler’s thresher machine, axe handles and tools, cases of silver plate, toys, pianos and organs, carriages and Yankee notions. The Eric the Red left New York under the command of Captain Zaccheus Allen (or some records say Captain Jacques Allen) and 24 other crew including the owner’s son third mate Ned Sewall. There were also 2 saloon passengers on board. The ship had been sailing for an uneventful 85 days and the voyage was almost at its end. As Eric the Red approached Cape Otway there was a moderate north-west wind and a hazy and overcast atmosphere. On 4th September 1880 at about 1:30 am Captain Allen sighted the Cape Otway light and was keeping the ship 5-6 miles offshore to stay clear of the hazardous Otway Reef. However, he had badly misjudged his position. The ship hit the Otway Reef about 2 miles out to sea, southwest of the Cape Otway light station. Captain Allen ordered the wheel to be put ‘hard up’ thinking that she might float off the reef. The sea knocked the helmsman away from the wheel, broke the wheel ropes and carried away the rudder. The lifeboats were swamped, the mizzenmast fell, with all of its riggings, then the mainmast also fell and the ship broke in two. Some said that the passenger Vaughan, who was travelling for his health and not very strong, was washed overboard and never seen again. The ship started breaking up. The forward house came adrift with three of the crew on it as well as a longboat, which the men succeeded in launching and keeping afloat by continually bailing with their sea boots. The captain, the third mate (the owner’s son) and others clung to the mizzenmast in the sea. Then the owner’s son was washed away off the mast. Within 10 minutes the rest of the ship was in pieces, completely wrecked, with cargo and wreckage floating in the sea. The captain encouraged the second mate to swim with him to the deckhouse where there were other crew but the second mate wouldn’t go with him. Eventually, the Captain made it to the deckhouse and the men pulled him up. At about 4:30 am the group of men on the deckhouse saw the lights of a steamer and called for help. At the same time, they noticed the second mate and the other man had drifted nearby, still on the spur, and pulled them both onto the wreck. The coastal steamer SS Dawn was returning to Warrnambool from Melbourne, and its sailing time was different to its usual schedule. She was built in 1876 and bought by the Portland and Belfast Steam Navigation Co. in 1877. At the time of this journey, she was commanded by Captain Jones and was sailing between Melbourne and Portland via Warrnambool. The provedore the Dawn, Benjamin Lear, heard cries of distress coming through the portholes of the saloon. He gave the alarm and the engines were stopped. Cries could be heard clearly, coming from the land. Captain Jones sent out crew in two boats and fired off rockets and blue lights to illuminate the area. They picked up the three survivors who were in the long boat from Eric the Red. Two men were picked up out of the water, one being the owner’s son who was clinging to floating kerosene boxes. At daylight, the Dawn then rescued the 18 men from the floating portion of the deckhouse, which had drifted about 4 miles from where they’d struck the reef. Shortly after the rescue the deckhouse drifted onto breakers and was thrown onto rocks at Point Franklin, about 2 miles east of Cape Otway. Captain Jones had signalled to Cape Otway lighthouse the number of the Eric the Red and later signalled that there was a wreck at Otway Reef but there was no response from the lighthouse. The captain and crew of the Dawn spent several more hours searching unsuccessfully for more survivors, even going back as far as Apollo Bay. On board the Dawn the exhausted men received care and attention to their needs and wants, including much-needed clothing. Captain Allen was amongst the 23 battered and injured men who were rescued and later taken to Warrnambool for care. Warrnambool’s mayor and town clerk offered them all hospitality, the three badly injured men going to the hospital for care and others to the Olive Branch Hotel, then on to Melbourne. Captain Allen’s leg injury prevented him from going ashore so he and three other men travelled on the Dawn to Portland. They were met by the mayor who also treated them all with great kindness. Captain Allen took the train back to Melbourne then returned to America. Those saved were Captain Zaccheus Allen (or Jacques Allen), J. Darcy chief mate, James F. Lawrence second mate, Ned Sewall third mate and owner’s son, John French the cook, C. Nelson sail maker, Clarence W. New passenger, and able seamen Dickenson, J. Black, Denis White, C. Herbert, C. Thompson, A. Brooks, D. Wilson, J. Ellis, Q. Thompson, C. Newman, W. Paul, J. Davis, M. Horenleng, J. Ogduff, T. W. Drew, R. Richardson. Four men had lost their lives; three of them were crew (Gus Dahlgreen ship’s carpenter, H. Ackman steward, who drowned in his cabin, and George Silver seaman) and one a passenger (J. B. Vaughan). The body of one of them had been found washed up at Cape Otway and was later buried in the lighthouse cemetery; another body was seen on an inaccessible ledge. Twelve months later the second mate James F. Lawrence, from Nova Scotia passed away in the Warrnambool district; an obituary was displayed in the local paper. Neither the ship nor its cargo was insured. The ship was worth about £15,000 and the cargo was reportedly worth £40,000; only about £2,000 worth had been recovered. Cargo and wreckage washed up at Apollo Bay, Peterborough, Port Campbell, Western Port and according to some reports, even as far away as the beaches of New Zealand. The day after the wreck the government steamship Pharos was sent from Queenscliff to clear the shipping lanes of debris that could be a danger to ships. The large midship deckhouse of the ship was found floating in a calm sea near Henty Reef. Items such as an American chair, a ladder and a nest of boxes were all on top of the deckhouse. As it was so large and could cause danger to passing ships, Captain Payne had the deckhouse towed towards the shore just beyond Apollo Bay. Between Apollo Bay and Blanket Bay, the captain and crew of Pharos collected Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, nests of boxes, bottles of Bristol’s sarsaparilla, pieces of common American chairs, axe handles, a Wheelers’ Patent thresher and a sailor’s trunk with the words “A. James” on the front. A ship’s flag-board bearing the words “Eric the Red” was found on the deckhouse; finally, those on board the Pharos had the name of the wrecked vessel. During this operation, Pharos came across the government steamer Victoria and also a steamer S.S. Otway, both of which were picking up flotsam and wreckage. A whole side of the hull and three large pieces of the other side of the hull, with some of the copper sheathing stripped off, had floated onto Point Franklin. Some of the vessels' yards and portions of her masts were on shore. The pieces of canvas attached to the yards and masts confirmed that the vessel had been under sail. The beach there was piled with debris several feet high. There were many cases of Diamond Oil kerosene, labelled R. W. Cameron and Company, New York. There were also many large planks of red pine, portions of a small white boat and a large, well-used oar. Other items found ashore included sewing machines (some consigned to ‘Long and Co.”) and notions, axe and scythe handles, hay forks, wooden pegs, rolls of wire (some branded “T.S” and Co, Melbourne”), kegs of nails branded “A.T. and Co.” from the factory of A. Field and Son, Taunton, Massachusetts, croquet balls and mallets, buggy fittings, rat traps, perfumery, cutlery and Douay Bibles, clocks, bicycles, chairs, a fly wheel, a cooking stove, timber, boxes, pianos, organs and a ladder. (Wooden clothes pegs drifted in for many years). There seemed to be no personal luggage or clothing. The Pharos encountered a long line, about one and a half miles, of f locating wreckage about 10 miles off land, southeast of Cape Otway, and in some places about 40 feet wide. It seemed that more than half of it was from Eric the Red. The ship’s crew rescued 3 cases that were for the Melbourne Exhibition and other items from amongst the debris. There were also chairs, doors, musical instruments, washing boards, nests of trunks and flycatchers floating in the sea. Most of the goods were saturated and smelt of kerosene. A section of the hull lies buried in the sand at Parker River Beach. An anchor with a chain is embedded in the rocks east of Point Franklin and a second anchor, thought to be from Eric the Red, is on display at the Cape Otway light station. (There is a photograph of a life belt on the verandah of Rivernook Guest House in Princetown with the words “ERIC THE RED / BOSTON”. This is rather a mystery as the ship was registered in Bath, Maine, USA.) Parts of the ship are on display at Bimbi Park Caravan Park and at Apollo Bay Museum. Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village also has part of the helm (steering wheel), a carved wooden sword (said to be the only remaining portion of the ship’s figurehead; further research is currently being carried out), a door, a metal rod, samples of wood and this medal awarded for the rescue of the crew. Much of the wreckage was recovered by the local residents before police and other authorities arrived at the scene. Looters went to great effort to salvage goods, being lowered down the high cliff faces to areas with little or no beach to collect items from the wreckage, their mates above watching out for dangerous waves. A Tasmanian newspaper reports on a court case in Stawell, Victoria, noting a man who was caught 2 months later selling tobacco from the wreckage of Eric the Red. Some of the silverware is still treasured by descendants of Mr Mackenzie who was given these items by officials for his help in securing the cargo. The gifts included silver coffee and teapots, half a dozen silver serviette rings and two sewing machines. A Mr G.W. Black has in his possession a medal and a purse that was awarded to his father, another Dawn crew member who was part of the rescue team. The medal is similarly inscribed and named “To John Black ….” (from “Shipwrecks” by Margaret E. Mackenzie, 3rd edition, published 1964). The wreck and cargo were sold to a Melbourne man who salvaged a quantity of high-quality tobacco and dental and surgical instruments. Timbers from the ship were salvaged and used in the construction of houses and shed around Apollo Bay, including a guest house, Milford House (since burnt down in bushfires), which had furniture, fittings and timber on the dining room floor from the ship. A 39.7-foot-long trading ketch, the Apollo, was also built from its timbers by Mr Burgess in 1883 and subsequently used in Tasmanian waters. It was the first attempt at shipbuilding in Apollo Bay. In 1881 a red light was installed about 300 feet above sea level at the base of the Cape Otway lighthouse to warn ships when they were too close to shore; It would not be visible unless a ship came within 3 miles from it. This has proved to be an effective warning. Nelson Johnson married Elizabeth Howard in 1881 and they had 10 children, the father of the medal’s donor being the youngest. They lived in 13 Tichbourne Place, South Melbourne, Victoria. Nelson died in 1922 in Fitzroy Victoria, age 66. In 1895 the owners of the S.S. Dawn, the Portland and Belfast Steam Navigation Co., wound up and sold out to the Belfast Company who took over the Dawn for one year before selling her to Howard Smith. She was condemned and sunk in Suva in 1928. The State Library of Victoria has a lithograph in its collection depicting the steamer Dawn and the shipwrecked men, titled. "Wreck of the ship Eric the Red, Cape Otway: rescue of the crew by the Dawn". The medal for bravery is associated with the ship the “The Eric the Red which is historically significant as one of Victoria's major 19th century shipwrecks. (Heritage Victoria Eric the Red; HV ID 239) The wreck led to the provision of an additional warning light placed below the Cape Otway lighthouse to alert mariners to the location of Otway Reef. The site is archaeologically significant for its remains of a large and varied cargo and ship's fittings being scattered over a wide area. The site is recreationally and aesthetically significant as it is one of the few sites along this coast where tourists can visit identifiable remains of a large wooden shipwreck, and for its location set against the background of Cape Otway, Bass Strait, and the Cape Otway lighthouse.“ (Victorian Heritage Database Registration Number S239, Official Number 8745 USA) This medal was awarded to Nelson Johnson by the U.S. President for bravery in the rescue of the Eric the Red crew. The obverse of the round, solid silver medal has an inscription around the rim. In the centre of the medal is the head of Liberty to the left, hair in a bun, with a sprig of leaves in the top left of a band around her head. There is a 6-pointed star below the portrait, between the start and end of the inscription. There are two raised areas on the rim, horizontally opposite each other, from the edge to just below the lettering and coinciding with the holes drilled in the edge. Slightly right of the top is a round indentation in the rim. The reverse has a wreath of leaves as a border, joined at the bottom by a ribbon bow. In the centre of the medal is an inscription, decorated with 3-pronged design and dots. The edge is plain with 2 small, rough and uneven holes horizontally opposite to each other, as though they had been used for mounting the medal at some stage. The medal has a matte finish on both sides and is slightly pitted and scratched.“PRESENTED BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES” around the perimeter of the obverse of the medal. “TO / Nelson Johnson, / seaman of the British, / str “Dawn”, for bravery, / at risk of life, / in / rescuing the crew of / the American Ship / “Eric the Red.” “M” on obverse, truncation of the portraitwarrnambool, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, shipwreck artefact, eric the red, zaccheus allen, sewall, 1880, melbourne exhibition, cape otway, otway reef, victorian shipwreck, medal, nelson johnson, neils frederick yohnson, s.s. dawn, george morgan, hero

A fender is part of the hardware used in open fireplaces to prevent the fire from spilling out of the fireplace. Wood fires were the main source of domestic heating in the 19th century.This fender is significant for its association with domestic heating in the 19th and early 20th century.Fire fender, cast iron, painted black, sides bolted onto front as is base plateflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, fire fender, fire guard, domestic heating, fender

Half-hull ship models were an important step in the process of building a vessel. Shipwrights or designers would construct a half-hull scale model of a ship before the vessel was built. They used it to ensure that the dimensions would work together and that the ship look balanced. They would often mount the half hull onto a board in their workshop. The half-hull ship models were also used to show prospective buyers how the design would work and look. Given the plywood construction of the model, it is believed to have been made around the 1930s as plywood construction had started in earnest in Queensland around this time and soon became the centre of the industry because of Queensland's attractive rain forest woods used which also included red cedar, silver ash, black bean, Queensland maple and silky oak. It is also believed the model was a design for a clinker-built barge to be built by Peter Payne who operated a boat building works on the Mordialloc Creek, Victoria going out of business in 1973. Records show Peter Paynes' first craft launched in 1962 and the last in 1973 from Mordialloc Creek works. However, he was one of the most prolific builders from the 1930s and produced many more vessels than the records currently show. There is at this point no further record of the subject model or whether a full version was ever built and for whom is not known at this time.A model that demonstrates the boat-building process is believed to have been made by Peter Payne or someone who worked in his yard. P Payne was a very well-known boating personality, vessel captain and boat builder throughout most of the 20th century. Model barge half hull on wooden of plywood laminated construction. Marked "AUXILIARY BARGE 80'x16'x6' 315 TONS 4" - 1 FOOT" "P and H PAYNE?" "22/E/26" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ship model half hull, ship half model, shipbuilding, shipwright, ship design, peter payne, boat builder victoria, clinker design, barge

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic