This item was hand-carved by Mark Richardson in 1899 at Tabbara. He operated the Richardson saw mill on the Brodribb at Tabbara and was a farmer at Bete Bolong.A hand-carved wooden rolling pin made from local blackwood."by Mark Richardson 1899"rolling-pin domestic food-preparation richardson-mark

This butter mold is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA wooden bowl which uses the lid as an imprint plunger. The imprint is a floral design and has a long handle. The bowl has a hole in the base for easy removal of butter.butter-mould domestic food-preparation

One small thin butter stamp rolling pin covered in tiny squares. One larger butter stamp rolling pin. Both are wooden.butter-stamps domestic food-preparation

This item is an example of a food processing appliance used in the late 19th century long before electricity came to Orbost.A cast iron raisin stoner. It has a clamp for attachment to a bench and has a wooden handle on a turning arm.On arm-PAT.APP. Aug 20.95 Oct 5-97 On one side- WET THE RAISINS On other side-ENTERPRISE M.F.C. PHILADELPHIA. P.A. U.S.A. On chute- No. 38raisin-stoner food-preparation

This domestic kitchen appliance is typical of the period when food processing was done at home. It would have been before the time of mass food processing factoriesA cast iron raisin stoner with a clamp. It has a wooden handle on a turning arm.On arm-PAT.APP. Aug 20.95 Oct 5-97 On one side- WET THE RAISINS On other side-ENTERPRISE M.F.C. PHILADELPHIA. P.A. U.S.A. On chute- No. 38raisin-stoner food-preparation

The Committee of Management held monthly meetings and "the members were conscientious in their attendance". 1938/1939 were busy years for the Orbost Hospital as there was a serious outbreak of poliomyelitis and some cases had to be sent on to Sale. There was also pressure from Dr Nettleton to begin a garbage collection in the town to clean up the town As the polio epidemic abated, diptheria took over and Dr Nettleton urged the shire to fund a further free immunisation campaign. In February, 1939t here were major bush fires in the district and the fire came within 300 yards of the Orbost Hospital. (info. from Orbost Hospital History, Personalities and Stories by Margaret Hollands)The Orbost Hospital was completed by the end of October 1929 after more than twenty years of agitation and preparation. Orbost is an isolated town and the importance of the medical service in the community is immense. This report is a reminder of its early history.A small book - 9th annual report of the Management Committee of Orbost & District Hospital, incorporated 1930. In black print inside rectangular border is title plus "For the Year Ended 30th June, 1939."orbost-hospital report-orbost-hospital-committee-of-management

This item was used by Helena Warren (nee McKeown), a well known photographer and local press correspondent. She lived at Newmerella. The meat mincer was a particularly popular kitchen gadget. By means of the mincer left overs and off cuts could be transformed into shepherd's pie or mince steak. Gadgets like this Universal food chopper are typical of domestic inventions designed to reinforce the principles of thrift and labour-saving. Many of these gadgets were imported from the United States. A cast iron metal hand mincer with a long metal body with an opening at one end, inside which is a circular spiral blade and a screw clamp attachment at the other end. On one side of the mincer is a curved metal handle held in place by a metal nut and a wooden bulb shaped knob at the end. There is a metal circular webbed blade held in place by a metal nut and bolt."Universal No. 2 brand; L.F. & C., New Britain, Conn., U.S.A."mincer chopper food-preparation

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. The scales were part of the collection of kitchen items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum.Heavy silver-coloured cast iron balance scales with an 8-sided tray to hold the weights, and a 4-armed cradle to hold the tin ingredient tray. The scooped ingredient tray has folded edges.TO WEIGH 14lb (on base: Uebergang No.F16)domestic items, food preparation, allansford, uebergang, kitchen scales

Very little is known about this particular Butter Churn. It may have been used by a local dairy farmer.an example of early butter churns (wooden) used around the late 1800's by dairy farmers.A large round wheel made of wood with an iron rim and a wooden paddle turned by a handle.It is on a square wooden stand.Cherry and Sons.Gisborne Victoria1800'sbutter churn.food preparation

This particular food mincer was manufactured by Enterprise Manufacturing Company. Located in Philadelphia, this company specialized in making hardware products. The company was especially known for its cherry pitters, apple peelers, and coffee mills. The company was founded in 1864 and was located on the corner of Dauphin, 3rd, and American Streets. Enterprise Manufacturing Co. remained in business until 1956 when it was bought by Silex Co.A mass produced early domestic item made for home food preparation this item's first patent design was approved in 1897. Manufactured by a well known company in the USA the "Enterprise Manufacturing Company” up until 1956. They specialised in making kitchen appliances of various types for domestic use and for export. Food mincers of the subject items design are still being produced today under the brand name of "Universal" made by Universal Trading Inc USA.Food mincer, metal, clamp on bench style, with rotating wooden handle. Inscriptions stamped on metal.Marked "Enterprise tinned Meat Chopper" "No. 10" "Enterprise MF'G Co. PHILA. USA" "PAT. JAN.30.83" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, mincer, food mincer, meat mincer, food preparation, kitchen utensil, domestic object, enterprise manufacturing company, kitchen appliance

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

The fruit juice or lemon squeezer is a small kitchen utensil designed to extract juice from lemons or other citrus fruit such as oranges, grapefruit, or lime. It is designed to separate and crush the pulp of the fruit in a way that is easy to operate. Lemon squeezers can be made from any solid, acid-resistant material, such as plastic, glass, metal (usually aluminum) or ceramic. The oldest known lemon squeezers were found in Kütahya, Turkey and date to the first quarter of the 18th century. These ceramic presses are in the traditional style of Turkish pottery of the 18th century and have a superficial resemblance to today's press equipment with cones, though they are designed differently. These examples were individually made, and specially designed for making the then popular citrus drink sorbet. Lemons are not native to northern Turkey, though during the 17th and 18th centuries they were imported in bulk to Constantinople.The fruit juice press is an example of early 20th century kitchen utensils and is not associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unable to be determined at this time and the item is believed to have been made around 1900. This item is currently being used in Flagstaffs Hill village display and regarded as significant as it demonstrates domestic kitchen utensils used around the turn of the 19th century and today is a collectable item. Vintage lemon/citrus fruits squeezer cast iron juicer with two sections hinged together strainer on one section has holes for letting liquid escape.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, food press, food preparation, fruit juice press, kitchen utensil

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This enamel jug is a basic design that was common to households in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of an item in common use in the 19th and early 20th centuries.White metal enamel jug, white with navy blue handle and rim. Tapered cylindrical shape, with a pouring lip.None.flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, jug, enamel jug, kitchen equipment, liquid storage, beverage preparation

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

An example of baking equipment used in Victorian times and still used to day.Spoon, wooden, blonde colour. Spoon section tapers to rounded point and handle is flat and shaped.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden spoon, food preparation, baking equipment, kitchen utensil

The colander is an extremely useful tool in the kitchen, as it allows food to be fully drained of liquids such as water or oil. Enamelware dates back to 1760 in Germany.This object is significant as an example of a type of item in common use in the 19th Century and that is still in use today.Mottled blue enamel colander with draining holes in the base and sides. Two thin handles on lip of bowl.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, enamel, colander, food preparation

Cast iron stoves burn solid fuel such as wood or coal, and are used for cooking and warmth. The stoves have a firebox with a grate where the fuel is burned. The hot air flows through flues and baffles that heat the stove top and the oven. Before cast iron stoves were invented, cooking and heating were carried out in outdoor open fires, and later, in fireplaces inside the home. In 1642 the first cast iron stove was manufactured in Lynn, Massachusetts, where molten cast iron was poured into a sand mould to make rectangular plates that were then joined together to make a box. Benjamin Franklin invented the more efficient Pennsylvania stove in 1744, and this efficient design is still used today. After the mid-19th century cast iron stoves were produced with burners in different positions, giving varied temperatures, so a wide variety of foods could be cooked at the same time at the most suitable heat, from slow cooking to baking scones. In contemporary times people the new wood-burning stoves had to meet the anti-pollution standards now in place to protect our environment. By the 1920s gas cookers were being introduced for domestic use, and by the 1930s electric home cookers were being offered to householders. PLANET STOVES In August 1925 the firm Cox and Rizzetti, Stove Works, and also Sydney Road, South Melbourne, advertised in the Brunswick and Coburg Leader of November 11, 1925 as "formerly with Harnwell and Sons" and as "specialists in solid cast iron Planet stoves ... which merit an inspection from builders and householders". The firm continued in business and was mentioned as sponsors in the King Island News in 1971. Harnwell and Sons was listed in the Victorian Government Gazette of 1894. It is curious that the firm was mentioned in an article in the Sunrasia Daily of June 14, 1934 titled 'Planet Stoves' as a manufacturer of Planet Stoves. This Planet No 3 stove is an uncommon example of cooking equipment used in kitchens in the early 20th century, as the firebox is above the oven rather than beside it. The cast iron combustion stove is significant as part of the evolution of domestic cooking. Previously cooking was mostly carried out in outdoors in open fires, and later in fireplaces indoors. Cast iron stoves are still used today and have additional features such as thermostats to monitor and maintain temperature, water heating pipes connected, and environmentally approved anti-pollution fittings. Stove; a compact, blackened cast iron combustion cooker, installed within a fireplace and enclosed by bricks on both sides. The upright rectangular stove has a flat top with three round, removable cook plates and a flue connected at the back. The front has three doors with round knob handles; a swing-down firebox door above a sliding ashtray, and two side-hinged oven doors above a sliding opening. Inside on the side walls are two pairs of runners. Behind the pair of doors is an oven with two pairs of rails and two removable metal shelves. The stove has cast inscriptions on the chimney flue and on the front of the right hand side stove door. The model of the stove is The Planet No 3, made in Melbourne.Chimney flue, "[within rectangle] THE / PLANET" Stove door, "(within oval) PLANET / No 3"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, stove, cast iron stove, combustion stove, wood-burning stove, wood stove, wood oven, solid fuel stove, cooker, the planet, planet, planet no. 3, kitchen equipment, baking, domestic cooking, cooking equipment, food preparation, planet stove, planet cooker, cooking range, slow combustion stove, antique, range cooker, cox and rizzetti, harnwell and sons, melbourne manufacturer

Domestic cooking item used on a wood stove.Black oval cast iron pot with handle on one side Makers name embossed on one side.Clark and co. on one side. 6.G/ On bottom black and co. Patened St davids star with O in centrecooking, kitchen, pot, cast iron, food preparation

The jug cover was made by diagonally overlapping two squares of net fabric and stitching them together. The beads on the cover are used to weigh the cover down and keep it on the jug. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered articles to take to their new home. Many of the items were made by Daisy, a skilled dressmaker. Daisy began her apprenticeship at two shillings and sixpence per week at Miss A. E. Emery's dressmaking establishment at 150-152 Liebig Street, Warrnambool. Considered to be the leading house of fashion in Warrnambool, Miss Emery employed about eight young women who worked long hours to sew elaborate gowns for clients, including wives of graziers who would attend the race carnivals and social functions in Warrnambool. (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families)This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is significant for its association with a ‘glory box’ or hope chest, a tradition of single ladies making and collecting a range of linen and other domestic items in preparation for their future marriage. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework and handmade domestic items.Jug cover; net fabric eight-point star shape, with white crocheted edges and red, white and green beads on each point. Part of the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery, needlework, crochet, miss a.e. emery dressmaker, jug cover, beaded cover, beaded jug cover

The jug cover was made by overlapping two squares of net fabric and joining them together. The beads on the cover’s border are used to weigh the cover down and keep it on the jug. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered articles to take to their new home. Many of the items were made by Daisy, a skilled dressmaker. Daisy began her apprenticeship at two shillings and sixpence per week at Miss A. E. Emery's dressmaking establishment at 150-152 Liebig Street, Warrnambool. Considered to be the leading house of fashion in Warrnambool, Miss Emery employed about eight young women who worked long hours to sew elaborate gowns for clients, including wives of graziers who would attend the race carnivals and social functions in Warrnambool. (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families)This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is significant for its association with a ‘glory box’ or hope chest’, a tradition of single ladies making and collecting a range of linen and other domestic items in preparation for their future marriage. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework and handmade domestic items.Jug cover, square shape, net fabric with blue beads along the crocheted edge. Part of the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery, needlework, crochet, jug cover

The jug cover has beads on the border, which are used to weigh the cover down and keep it on the jug. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered articles to take to their new home. Many of the items were made by Daisy, a skilled dressmaker. Daisy began her apprenticeship at two shillings and sixpence per week at Miss A. E. Emery's dressmaking establishment at 150-152 Liebig Street, Warrnambool. Considered to be the leading house of fashion in Warrnambool, Miss Emery employed about eight young women who worked long hours to sew elaborate gowns for clients, including wives of graziers who would attend the race carnivals and social functions in Warrnambool. (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families)This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is significant for its association with a ‘glory box’ or hope chest’, a tradition of single ladies making and collecting a range of linen and other domestic items in preparation for their future marriage. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework and handmade domestic items.Jug Cover, crocheted square shape, diamond pattern in the centre, with alternate blue, green and clear beads on the edge. From the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection'. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery, miss a.e. emery dressmaker, needlework, crochet, jug cover

The jug cover has beads on the border, which are used to weigh the cover down and keep it on the jug. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered articles to take to their new home. Many of the items were made by Daisy, a skilled dressmaker. Daisy began her apprenticeship at two shillings and sixpence per week at Miss A. E. Emery's dressmaking establishment at 150-152 Liebig Street, Warrnambool. Considered to be the leading house of fashion in Warrnambool, Miss Emery employed about eight young women who worked long hours to sew elaborate gowns for clients, including wives of graziers who would attend the race carnivals and social functions in Warrnambool. (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families)This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is significant for its association with a ‘glory box’ or hope chest’, a tradition of single ladies making and collecting a range of linen and other domestic items in preparation for their future marriage. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework and handmade domestic items.Jug Cover, square shape, swan incorporated in crochet with blue beads on the crocheted edge. Part of the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery, needlework, crochet, jug cover, crocheted cover

The jug cover has beads on the border, which are used to weigh the cover down and keep it on the jug. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered articles to take to their new home. Many of the items were made by Daisy, a skilled dressmaker. Daisy began her apprenticeship at two shillings and sixpence per week at Miss A. E. Emery's dressmaking establishment at 150-152 Liebig Street, Warrnambool. Considered to be the leading house of fashion in Warrnambool, Miss Emery employed about eight young women who worked long hours to sew elaborate gowns for clients, including wives of graziers who would attend the race carnivals and social functions in Warrnambool. (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families) This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is significant for its association with a ‘glory box’ or hope chest’, a tradition of single ladies making and collecting a range of linen and other domestic items in preparation for their future marriage. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework and handmade domestic items.Jug Cover, white crocheted square with a Maltese Cross incorporated in the design and green beads on the crocheted edge. Part of the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery, miss a.e. emery dressmaker, needlework, crochet, jug cover, crocheted cover