[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographactivities, bridge street, eltham, heritage excursion, main road

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographactivities, heritage excursion, main road, burgoyne store, milk bar, shops

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographactivities, heritage excursion, main road, eltham, john street, cba bank

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographactivities, heritage excursion, main road, eltham, john street, uniting church

L-R: Phyllis McDonald, Dolly Smith, Russell Yeoman, Joyce McMahon, Opal Smith, Brian Smith, Lu Robertson, Jack Shallard [from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, main road, eltham, 150th anniversary monument, 20th anniversary, activities, eltham community centre, pitt street, plaques, time capsule

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, eltham community centre

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, main road, eltham hotel

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, main road, police residence

L-R: Doug Orford, Russell Yeoman [from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, doug orford, russell yeoman, eltham courthouse

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, eltham courthouse, opal smith, sue law

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, eltham, jarrold cottage, main road

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographheritage excursion, activities, montsalvat

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographeltham rsl sub-branch, main road

[from EDHS Newsletter No. 65, March, 1989:] ELTHAM HERITAGE WALK The Society's contribution to Heritage Week this year will be a guided walk around Eltham featuring a number of buildings and locations of historical and environmental interest. Three dates are listed as official Heritage Week events, Sundays 16th and 23rd April and Saturday 22nd. In addition, there will be a walk on Saturday 15th for Society Members. All walks will start at 1:00 p.m. in Panther Place near Shillinglaw Cottage. Each will take about four hours and the distance is about 5km. Old photos of locations visited will be available for viewing.Colour photographjohn street, main road, uniting church

Transcript of the Maggs Family History, given by Joan Walker, former member of RDHS:- Pioneer Family - Maggs • James Maggs and wife Harriet Banfield migrated to Melbourne on the “Ticondergoa” which sailed from Birkenhead on 4th August 1852 with 812 assisted immigrants. • In 1856 James purchased 7 acres of land, part of section 75, in the parish of Nunawading where he developed an orchard. • Three children died young – Emma (before 1862), Jemima at Ticonderoga Bay and Mary Jane aged 3 weeks at Konung Creek. Three sons and a daughter survived them. Harriet died in 1875, James in 1888 both buried in Box Hill cemetery. • Their sons Joseph, Samuel and James all established orchards in the Ringwood/Croydon district. Samuel Maggs • Born 11 May 1851, Somerset, England and grew up on his fathers property in Springfield Road, Blackburn, one block east of Surrey Road. • On 4 October 1876 Sam married Eliza Ann Barnes. • 1881 purchased a block, Allot. 39 Parish of Warrandyte and developed an apple and cherry orchard. The orchard occupied the area between White Horse Road and Mullum Mullum Creek from Oban Rd east to where White Horse Road takes a slight turn to the right, near Burnt Bridge. • Son George b.28 December 1876 Warrandyte married Annie Smith d.9 May 1947. • Daughter Eliza Jane b.27 July 1878 Ringwood married William Dobbin, d.31 May 1946 Camberwell. • Son James b.15 May 1880, Lilydale married Catherine Atkins d.28 July 1940 Ringwood buried Box Hill. • Daughter Jemima b.16 December 1881 Warrandyte married Edward Lindsay in 1905, d.2 November 1955 and buried in Box Hill. • Daughter Jane b.22 May 1884 Warrandyte married Thomas S Knee in 1912 d.31 January 1971, buried at Box Hill. • Son Samuel William b.1 Jan 1889 Ringwood married Mina Lillian Schuhkraft in 1911 d.15 Jan 1955 Ringwood. Joseph Maggs • Born 5 June 1845, Somerset England. • Married Mary Ann Reid in April 1867 at Templestowe. • Bought Sec. 26a, in Ringwood on the corner of Eastfield Road an Mt Dandenong Road in February 1870. Planted 4 acres with fruit treet. Was also a wood carter. During the 1880s white clay was mined here, which he carted for the Victorian Porcelain Clay Coy. • Daughter Emma b.8 Jan 1868 Templstowe d. 3 August 1939, Richmond married May 1890 Fredrick W. McGinnis. • Daughter Agnes b.16 June 1869 Templestowe married John D Miller c.1894. d.3 February 1912 Heathmont, buried Box Hill. • Son Albert b.1 May 1871 Nunawading d.15 Nov 1893. • Son Hubert b.10 May 1873 Nunawading married Isabella Atkins in 1898 Ringwood d.11 August Wagga Wagga and buried there. • Daughter Harriet Annis b.13 August 1875 Box Hill d.21 Sept 1875. • Son Joseph b.25 Septenber 1876 Box Hill d.3 Oct 1900 Mitcham. • Daughter Harriet Annis b.18 Aug 1879, Ringwood married James R Miller d.8 May 1945. • Son William b.3 Sep 1881 married Mary E Hardidge. D.6 April 1950 South Melbourne. • Daughter Dora Jane Dulcie b.13 December 1883 Ringwood d.1973. • Daughter Delia Rose b.20 February 1886, Ringwood married William J Sharkie d.30 October 1914 James Maggs • Youngest (born 28 April 1862, Blackburn) and only Australian born son was also an orchardist. • Married Marianne Hardidge in 1880 (divorced in 1906) purchased land in what is now Kalinda Road, adjoining Sam’s land. • James lived with Teresa Shanks in the Hawthorn and Prahran districts and became a taxi driver. Died in 1925, buried at Box Hill. Marianne became a widwife who delivered over 500 babies in the area – was known as Nurse Polly Maggs, died in 1941 aged 81. • Daughter Mary Ann Hase Polly b.5 July 1881 Ringwood married Thomas Lawford d.9 November 1961 buried at Box Hill. • Daughter Jane Emma b.9 May 1883 Ringwood married Frederick Bloom 1910 d.28 July 1954. • Daughter James John b.17 Jan 1885 Ringwood married Johanna Ida Edith Bloom in 1912 d.24 August 1962 buried at Box Hill. • Daughter David Joseph b.31 Jan 1887 Ringwood married Violet Lepp married 1916, d.11 July 1966. • Son Samuel Arthur b.11 March 1888 Ringwood married Bertha Anna Pump in 1913 d.7 August 1957. • Son John William b.16 April 1890 Ringwood married Lillian Mabel May Smith in 1909 d.18 February 1959 Cobram. • Daughter Eliza Anne b.6 March 1892 Ringwood d.April 18 1892. • Son Robert Thomas b.7 March 1893 Ringwood married Edith E Britnell in 1919 d.12 March 1981 buried Box Hill. • Son Albert Edward b.12 April 1895 Ringwood married Florence Sarah Pearce in 1918 d.30 January 1976 buried at Springvale. • Daughter Evaleen Victoria b.28 Aug 1897, Ringwood married Sydney Till married 1920 d.5 September 1989 buried at Box Hill. • Daughter Harriet Banfield Chrissy b.14 December 1899 Ringwood d.28 Dec 1979 buried Box Hill. Jane Maggs • Born 19 December 1858 in Blackburn. Died 5 July 1926 buried at Box Hill. Married William Cook and had one child, Harriet Amy Cook who never married and lived in Whitehorse Road, Mitcham until her death in 1962. Details, extract from Family Tree Maker family tree:- Descendants of James Maggs Generation No. 1 1. JAMES5 MAGGS (JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)1 died 24 Sep 18881. He married (1) HARRIET MARTHA BANFIELD1 23 Dec 1841 in Bristol, Somerset, England1. She was born 19 Jun 1817 in Clutton, Somerset, England1, and died 12 May 1875 in Nunawading, Victoria, Australia1. He married (2) ROSENA MAHON1 09 Dec 1875 in Fitzroy, Victoria, Australia1. She was born in Deptford, London, England1. Notes for JAMES MAGGS: JAMES MAGGS, and his wife HARRIET BANFIELD, migrated to Melbourne on the "Ticonderoga", which sailed from Birkenhead 4th Aug 1852 with 812 assisted immigrants aboard. In the close confines of the ship fever broke out and by the time she arrived off Port Phillip Heads on or about 2nd Nov, 100 deaths had been recorded in the log and hundreds were too weak to help themselves. Captain Wylie of the coastal trader "Champion", informed Captain Ferguson, the harbourmaster at Williamstown, of the tragic plight of the passengers and crew, and he came with two doctors, in the "Empire", to their aid. They anchored just inside Port Phillip Heads on 5 Nov. at the "Sanatory Station", declared but not yet established by the local authorities. Those who were well enough were put ashore in tents made of spars and sails. The "Lysander" was despatched from Melbourne to act as a hospital ship, and 2 houses, built of the local limestone, were commandeered as a quarantine station. For six weeks the survivors were held near Point Nepean at a place still known as Ticonderoga Bay while the fever, propably typhus, a louse borne epidemic disease, ran its course and a further 68 passengers, 2 crew members and 4 newborn babes succumbed to the scourge. Among them was Jemima Maggs, 3 year old daughter of James and Harriet. The dead were buried at the waters edge, in a grove of titree, a site now marked by Heaton's monument. The remainder of the family, including Samuel, just one year old, lived through the ordeal to make a new life in Australia. James obtained work with Robert Wilson of Bulleen for a period of 3 months at a wage of 52 pounds per annum with rations. By 1856 he was able to purchase 7 acres of land, part of section 75, in the parish of Nunawading at 5 pounds per acre. Here he developed an orchard by means of various mortgages including one taken out 17 July 1872 for 50 pounds from the Victorian Permanent Property Investment & Building Society. Three of their seven children died young, Emma before 1862, Jemima at Ticonderoga Bay, and Mary Jane, the first of their three Australian born children, aged 3 weeks at Konung Creek.Three sons and a daughter survived them. Harriet died in 1875, James lived until 1888 and both are buried at the Box Hill Cemetery. Their sons, Joseph, Samuel, and James all established orchards in the Ringwood/Croydon district. Bur Reg 308 Box Hill Grave #64 Presbyterian More About JAMES MAGGS: Ancestral File Number: LN0V-G01 Burial: 26 Sep 1888, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Christening: 20 Oct 1816, Clutton, Somerset, England1 Record Change: 03 Oct 20041 More About HARRIET MARTHA BANFIELD: Ancestral File Number: LN0V-N11 Burial: 14 May 1875, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Christening: 31 Aug 18171 Record Change: 29 Nov 20041 More About ROSENA MAHON: Record Change: 01 Dec 20011 Children of JAMES MAGGS and HARRIET BANFIELD are: i. EMMA6 MAGGS1, b. 13 Nov 1843, Clutton, Somerset, England1. More About EMMA MAGGS: Record Change: 08 Jul 20031 2. ii. JOSEPH MAGGS, b. 05 Jun 1845, Clutton, Somerset, England; d. 24 Jun 1886, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia. iii. JEMIMA MAGGS1, b. 25 Oct 1848, Clutton, Somerset, England1; d. 1852, Ticonderoga Bay, Victoria, Australia1. More About JEMIMA MAGGS: Record Change: 24 Jan 20031 3. iv. SAMUEL MAGGS, b. 11 May 1851, Clutton, Somerset, England; d. 30 Aug 1942, Croydon, Victoria, Australia. v. MARY JANY MAGGS1, b. 03 Dec 1855, Konung Creek, Victoria, Australia1; d. 27 Dec 18551. More About MARY JANY MAGGS: Record Change: 23 Jan 20051 4. vi. JANE MAGGS, b. 19 Dec 1858, Blackburn, Victoria, Australia; d. 05 Jul 1926, , Victoria, Australia. 5. vii. JAMES MAGGS, b. 1862, Nunawading; d. 1925, Fitzroy. Generation No. 2 2. JOSEPH6 MAGGS (JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)1 was born 05 Jun 1845 in Clutton, Somerset, England1, and died 24 Jun 1886 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia1. He married MARY ANN READ1 01 Apr 1867 in Templestowe, Victoria, Australia1. She was born Abt. 1847 in of Templestowe, Victoria, Australia1, and died 1925 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia1. Notes for JOSEPH MAGGS: Joseph Maggs born 5 Jun 1845 at Clutton, Somerset, England, arrived in Australia age 7 years. He married Mary Ann Read, in Apr 1867 at Templestowe, selected land, Lot 26a,in Ringwood on the corner of Eastfield Road and Mt.Dandenong Road, approx 114 acres, at 11 o'clock 2 Feb 1870. He planted 4 acres with fruit trees valued at 80 pounds and by Sep 1874 his occupation was farmer and wood carter. A 4 room house of lathe and plaster with a paling roof, a kitchen, a slab and bark stable and a pigsty had been errected to a value of 71 pounds. A well, 3 dams, clearing and fencing valued at 96 pounds are also listed. He notes "from the nature of the land, being very poor and heavily timbered, I have not been quite able to clear the complement required, not having means sufficient to do so, neither will the land pay when cultivated." Traces of antimony were found on the land but not in commercial quantities, however during the 1880s white clay was mined here, which he carted for the Victoria Porcelain Clay Coy. In Mar 1880 he was granted freehold title at a price of one pound per acre. More About JOSEPH MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 More About MARY ANN READ: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 21 Jul 20021 Children of JOSEPH MAGGS and MARY READ are: 6. i. EMMA7 MAGGS, b. 08 Jan 1868, Templestowe, Victoria, Australia; d. 03 Aug 1939, Richmond, Victoria, Australia. ii. ALBERT MAGGS1, b. 01 May 1871, Nunawading, Victoria, Australia1; d. 15 Nov 1893, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia1. More About ALBERT MAGGS: Record Change: 12 Oct 19971 7. iii. HUBERT MAGGS, b. 10 May 1873, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 11 Aug 1956, Wagga Wagga, N.S.W., Australia. iv. HARRIET ANNIS MAGGS1, b. 13 Aug 1875, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1; d. Ringwood, Victoria, Australia1. More About HARRIET ANNIS MAGGS: Burial: 21 Sep 1875, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 v. JOSEPH MAGGS1, b. 25 Sep 1876, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1; d. 03 Oct 1900, Mitcham, Victoria, Australia1. More About JOSEPH MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 8. vi. HARRIET ANNIS MAGGS, b. 18 Aug 1879, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 08 May 1945. vii. WILLIAM MAGGS1, b. 03 Sep 18811; d. 06 Apr 1950, South Melbourne, Victoria, Australia1; m. MARY ELIZA HARDIDGE1, 24 Dec 1912, Goulburn, N.S.W., Australia1; b. Abt. 1884, , of Victoria, Australia1; d. 1956, Lilydale, Victoria, Australia1. More About WILLIAM MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 More About MARY ELIZA HARDIDGE: Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 viii. DORA JANE DULCIE MAGGS1, b. 13 Dec 1883, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia1; d. 1973, Mitcham, Victoria, Australia1. More About DORA JANE DULCIE MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jan 20021 9. ix. DELIA ROSE MAGGS, b. 20 Feb 1886, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 30 Oct 1914. 10. x. AGNES MAGGS, b. 16 Jun 1869, Templestowe, Victoria, Australia; d. 03 Feb 1912, Heathmont, Victoria, Australia. 3. SAMUEL6 MAGGS (JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)1 was born 11 May 1851 in Clutton, Somerset, England1, and died 30 Aug 1942 in Croydon, Victoria, Australia1. He married ELIZA ANN BARNES1 04 Oct 1876 in Nunawading, Victoria, Australia1. She was born 19 Sep 1848 in St Lukes, London, England1, and died 17 Feb 1923 in Croydon, Victoria, Australia1. Notes for SAMUEL MAGGS: SAMUEL MAGGS grew up on his father's property in Springfield Road, Blackburn, one block east of Surrey Road. West of Surrey Road and fronting to White Horse Road was James Barnes' property, so by walking through the Maggs land and crossing Surrey Road, one might enter the back of the Barnes land, an easy way to visit ELIZA ANN BARNES. On the 4 Oct 1876 Sam and Eliza were married at her father's house. Sam wrote to the Secretary for Lands on the 29 Sep 1880, requesting that Allot. 39 Parish of Warrandyte be made available for selection. This block had been refused for selection earlier on the objection of the Mines Department as it was believed that the area was auriferous. When told that the block was available, Sam marked it at 5 o'clock December 3rd and applied for a lease of 12 acres 3 rods and 34 perches on the 6th December. On the application it is noted that he already had leasehold of 104 acres. His license was approved 7 Mar 1881 at a rate of 6 shillings and 6 pence per halfyear. Previously paid fees and rental came to 3 pounds 18 shillings, and he paid another pound for a certificate fee, a pound lease fee, plus the first half years rental, then proceeded to develop the land into an apple and cherry orchard.In 7 Mar 1898 he had succeeded in securing the freehold grant of the area by paying 2 pounds 18 shillings 6 pence fees due,plus a 1 guinea grant fee and assurance fund contribution of 7 pence, a total of 4 pounds and 1 penny. The orchard occupied the area between White Horse Rd and Mullum Mullum Creek,from Oban Rd east to where White Horse Road, now the Maroondah Highway, takes a slight turn to the right, near the Burnt Bridge. Sam and Eliza built a house on Sec38 and planted Fivecrown apples grafted on a Maggs Seedling stock at 24 ft spacing. Trees put in about 1875 were yielding up to twenty bushells 30 years later. He didn't approve of regulations which required spraying for codlin moth and was reputed to have said when denied coolstorage space until he sprayed his trees, "No one is going to tell me how to grow apples and anyway a bit of codlin is good for you". More About SAMUEL MAGGS: Ancestral File Number: LN0V-8X1 Record Change: 20 Aug 19971 Notes for ELIZA ANN BARNES: ELIZA ANN BARNES married SAMUEL MAGGS, son of neighbouring land owner, James Maggs, 4 Oct 1876 and had 6 children. She had a stroke about 1921 but was able to attend her seventyfourth birthday party held at her daughter Jane Knee's home in Sep 1922 when over forty family members gathered for the celebration(see photo). She died 17 Feb 1923 at Croydon. More About ELIZA ANN BARNES: Ancestral File Number: LN0V-2W1 Record Change: 20 Aug 19971 Children of SAMUEL MAGGS and ELIZA BARNES are: 11. i. GEORGE7 MAGGS, b. 28 Dec 1876, Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia; d. 09 May 1947, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia. 12. ii. ELIZA JANE MAGGS, b. 27 Jul 1878, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 31 May 1946, Camberwell, Victoria, Australia. 13. iii. JAMES MAGGS, b. 15 May 1880, Lilydale, Victoria, Australia; d. 28 Jul 1940, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia. iv. JANE MAGGS1, b. 22 May 1884, Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia1; d. 31 Jan 19711; m. THOMAS SAMUEL KNEE1, 1907, , Victoria, Australia1; b. 07 Aug 1881, Lilydale, Victoria, Australia1; d. 19 Apr 19601. More About JANE MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 More About THOMAS SAMUEL KNEE: Burial: 21 Apr 1960, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 22 Aug 20031 14. v. SAMUEL WILLIAM MAGGS, b. 01 Jan 1889, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 15 Jan 1955, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia. 15. vi. JEMIMA MAGGS, b. 16 Dec 1881, Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia; d. 02 Nov 1955. 4. JANE6 MAGGS (JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)1 was born 19 Dec 1858 in Blackburn, Victoria, Australia1, and died 05 Jul 1926 in , Victoria, Australia1. She married WILLIAM COOK1 1880 in , Victoria, Australia1. He was born Abt. 1859 in Wickliffe, Victoria, Australia1, and died 09 Aug 19391. Notes for JANE MAGGS: Jane Maggs, the only surviving daughter of James and Harriet, married William Cook and had one child, Harriet Amy Cook, known to her relatives as Cousin Amy. She never married and lived in the house inWhitehorse Road, Mitcham built by her parents, for many years until her death in 1962. She took a keen interest in family history and was a great source of information and memorabilia about the early days of the Ringwood area. More About JANE MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill1 Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 More About WILLIAM COOK: Burial: 10 Aug 1939, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 05 Nov 20011 Child of JANE MAGGS and WILLIAM COOK is: i. HARRIET AMEY7 COOK1, b. 1881, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1; d. 13 Sep 1962, Surrey Hills, Victoria, Australia1. More About HARRIET AMEY COOK: Burial: 17 Sep 1962, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia1 Record Change: 18 Feb 20011 5. JAMES6 MAGGS (JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)2,3 was born 1862 in Nunawading4, and died 1925 in Fitzroy4. He married (1) THERESA BROWN4 in Christchurch, New Zealand5. She was born 1869 in Clunes, Victoria, Australia5, and died 1930 in Prahran, Victoria, Australia5. He married (2) MARIANNE HARDIDGE6 1880 in Kew6. She was born 1860 in Doncaster6, and died 1941 in Mitcham6. He married (3) ADA JANE CROY7 19127. She was born 1883 in ,Victoria, Australia7. Notes for JAMES MAGGS: James Maggs, the youngest child and only Australian born son of James and Harriet, was an orchardist like his older brothers. He married Marianne Hardidge in 1880 and selected an area in what is now Kalinda Road, adjoining Sam's land. They constructed a four roomed house measuring 26 feet square valued at fifty pounds and stables valued at forty pounds. The buildings were made of palings with an iron roof. Here they raised ten children and lost a little girl, Eliza, aged three weeks. In 1900 James became seriously ill with a kidney disease and was visited during his illness by a wide section of his neighbours, including Mrs Theresa Shanks. He and Theresa became attracted to each other and broke up their marriages, with James and Marianne being divorced in 1906. James and Theresa lived in the Hawthorn and Prahran districts and he became a taxi driver. He contributed to the upkeep of his children although the divorce was a bitter affair. He died in 1925 in Fitzroy and Theresa only survived him by five years. They are buried in the same grave at Box Hill. Marianne became a midwife who delivered over 500 babies in the neighborhood. She was known as Nurse Polly Maggs and the people of Ringwood presented her with a wireless set in appreciation of her service to the community. She died at the age of 81 years in 1941. More About JAMES MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill Cemetery8 Record Change: 01 Sep 20018 Notes for THERESA BROWN: [Ringwood.ged] Theresa had a son Jim Shanks born1902 (father was James Maggs) Reg No 12243R More About THERESA BROWN: Burial: 05 Feb 1930, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia9 Record Change: 01 Sep 200110 More About MARIANNE HARDIDGE: Burial: Box Hill Cemetery10 Record Change: 01 Sep 200110 Marriage Notes for JAMES MAGGS and MARIANNE HARDIDGE: [Ringwood.ged] divorced in 1906 More About ADA JANE CROY: Burial: 15 Apr 1932, Geelong, Victoria, Australia11 Record Change: 10 Aug 200211 Child of JAMES MAGGS and THERESA BROWN is: i. JIM7 MAGGS12, b. 190212. More About JIM MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200112 Children of JAMES MAGGS and MARIANNE HARDIDGE are: ii. MARY ANN HASE7 MAGGS12, b. 188112. More About MARY ANN HASE MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200112 16. iii. JANE EMMA MAGGS, b. 1883; d. 28 Jul 1954. 17. iv. JAMES JOHN MAGGS, b. 1885; d. 24 Aug 1962, Parkville, Victoria, Australia. v. DAVID JOSEPH MAGGS12,13, b. 188714; d. 11 Jul 1966, Mt. Waverley, Victoria, Australia15; m. VIOLET ADELINE LEPP15, 1916, , Victoria, Australia15; b. 1888, Ballarat, Victoria, Australia15; d. 26 Mar 1966, ,Victoria, Australia15. More About DAVID JOSEPH MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200116 More About VIOLET ADELINE LEPP: Record Change: 21 Jan 200217 18. vi. SAMUEL ARTHUR MAGGS, b. 1888; d. 07 Aug 1957, Doncaster, Victoria, Australia. 19. vii. JOHN WILLIAM MAGGS, b. 1890; d. 18 Feb 1959, Cobram, Victoria, Australia. viii. ELIZA ANN MAGGS18, b. 189218; d. 189218. More About ELIZA ANN MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill Cemetery18 Record Change: 01 Sep 200118 20. ix. ROBERT THOMAS MAGGS, b. 1893; d. 12 Mar 1981. 21. x. ALBERT EDWARD MAGGS, b. 1895; d. 1976. 22. xi. EVALEEN VICTORIA MAGGS, b. 1897; d. 05 Sep 1989. xii. HARRIET BANFIELD MAGGS18, b. 189918. More About HARRIET BANFIELD MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200118 23. xiii. MARY ANN HASE POLLY MAGGS, b. 05 Jul 1881, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 09 Nov 1961. xiv. HARRIET BANFIELD CHRISSY MAGGS19, b. 14 Dec 1899, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19; d. 28 Dec 1979, Blackburn, Victoria, Australia19. More About HARRIET BANFIELD CHRISSY MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill19 Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 Children of JAMES MAGGS and ADA CROY are: xv. CLENCIE JOAN7 MAGGS19, m. ARTHUR RODERICK PITTER19. xvi. CLYDE MAGGS19, b. 1917, Collingwood, Victoria, Australia19; d. 1917, Collingwood, Victoria, Australia19. More About CLYDE MAGGS: Record Change: 10 Aug 200219 Generation No. 3 6. EMMA7 MAGGS (JOSEPH6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)19 was born 08 Jan 1868 in Templestowe, Victoria, Australia19, and died 03 Aug 1939 in Richmond, Victoria, Australia19. She married FREDRICK WILLIAM MCGINNIS19 May 1890 in , Victoria, Australia19. He was born in , of Victoria, Australia19. More About EMMA MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 More About FREDRICK WILLIAM MCGINNIS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 Children of EMMA MAGGS and FREDRICK MCGINNIS are: i. RENIRA EDDA8 MCGINNIS19. ii. FREDRICK HENRY MCGINNIS19, b. 1894, , of Victoria, Australia19; d. 195819. More About FREDRICK HENRY MCGINNIS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 7. HUBERT7 MAGGS (JOSEPH6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)19 was born 10 May 1873 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19, and died 11 Aug 1956 in Wagga Wagga, N.S.W., Australia19. He married ISABELLA ATKINS19 09 Mar 1898 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19. She was born Abt. 1875 in St Arnaud, Victoria, Australia19. More About HUBERT MAGGS: Burial: Wagga Wagga, N.S.W., Australia19 Record Change: 23 Jan 200519 More About ISABELLA ATKINS: Record Change: 23 Jan 200519 Children of HUBERT MAGGS and ISABELLA ATKINS are: i. HUBERT CARLYLE8 MAGGS19. ii. ANNE THORA MAGGS19. iii. RAYMOND MAGGS19, b. 09 Jun 1905, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19; d. 20 Jul 190519. More About RAYMOND MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 8. HARRIET ANNIS7 MAGGS (JOSEPH6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)19 was born 18 Aug 1879 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19, and died 08 May 194519. She married JAMES RICHARD MILLER19 26 Sep 1910 in Ringwood East, Victoria, Australia19. He was born 1878 in Collingwood, Victoria, Australia19. More About HARRIET ANNIS MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 More About JAMES RICHARD MILLER: Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 Children of HARRIET MAGGS and JAMES MILLER are: i. DUDLEY8 MILLER19. ii. IRENE DOROTHY MILLER19, b. 10 Nov 1913, , of Victoria, Australia19; d. 29 Sep 199019. More About IRENE DOROTHY MILLER: Burial: Lilydale, Victoria, Australia19 Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 iii. CYRIL MILLER19, b. 26 Sep 1915, , of Victoria, Australia19; d. 05 Apr 197319. More About CYRIL MILLER: Burial: Springvale, Victoria, Australia19 Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 9. DELIA ROSE7 MAGGS (JOSEPH6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)19 was born 20 Feb 1886 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia19, and died 30 Oct 191419. She married WILLIAM JAMES SHARKIE19. More About DELIA ROSE MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia19 Record Change: 18 Feb 200119 Child of DELIA MAGGS and WILLIAM SHARKIE is: i. RONALD8 SHARKIE19, b. Abt. 1914, , of Victoria, Australia19; d. Abt. 1964, , N.S.W., Australia19. More About RONALD SHARKIE: Record Change: 15 Oct 200119 10. AGNES7 MAGGS (JOSEPH6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)20,21 was born 16 Jun 1869 in Templestowe, Victoria, Australia21, and died 03 Feb 1912 in Heathmont, Victoria, Australia21. She married (1) JOHN DOMONIC MILLER22 189423,24, son of FRANK MILLER and KATE MADDEN. He was born 187025,26, and died 194227,28. She married (2) JOHN DOMINIC MILLER29 1894 in , Victoria, Australia30,31. He was born 1870 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia31. More About AGNES MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia31 Record Change: 11 Sep 200132 More About JOHN DOMONIC MILLER: Record Change: 11 Sep 200132 More About JOHN DOMINIC MILLER: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 Children of AGNES MAGGS and JOHN MILLER are: i. ALBERT JOHN8 MILLER33, b. 1894, , of Victoria, Australia33. More About ALBERT JOHN MILLER: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 ii. LOUIS NICHOLAS MILLER33, b. 1901, , of Victoria, Australia33; d. 197433; m. LILA MERTON33. More About LOUIS NICHOLAS MILLER: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 iii. LESLIE DOMINIC MILLER33, b. 1904, , of Victoria, Australia33; d. 198933. More About LESLIE DOMINIC MILLER: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 11. GEORGE7 MAGGS (SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)33 was born 28 Dec 1876 in Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia33, and died 09 May 1947 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33. He married ANNIE GRACE SMITH33 26 Mar 1902 in , Victoria, Australia33. She was born Abt. 1878 in of Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33, and died 1967 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia33. More About GEORGE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 More About ANNIE GRACE SMITH: Record Change: 21 Jan 200233 Children of GEORGE MAGGS and ANNIE SMITH are: i. CLYDE8 MAGGS33, m. VIOLET OXENBURY33. 24. ii. GEORGE ALBERT MAGGS, b. 17 Jul 1902, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia; d. 1974, Heidelberg, Victoria, Australia. iii. HILDA GLADYS BILLIE MAGGS33, b. 05 Sep 1903, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33; d. 15 Oct 198733; m. LENARD DRYSDALE REID33. More About HILDA GLADYS BILLIE MAGGS: Burial: Springvale, Victoria, Australia33 Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 iv. MYRTLE OLIVE MAGGS33, b. 24 Dec 1905, Kew, Victoria, Australia33; d. 02 Jan 198333; m. ROBERT SAMUEL BOB HEAD33, 1924, , Victoria, Australia33; b. 1898, , of Victoria, Australia33; d. 15 Oct 1980, Mermaid Beach, Queensland, Australia33. More About MYRTLE OLIVE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 More About ROBERT SAMUEL BOB HEAD: Burial: 17 Oct 1980, Nerang, Queensland, Australia33 Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 v. FREDERICK STANLEY MAGGS33, b. 10 Jul 1907, of, Victoria, Australia33; d. 26 Jan 1975, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia33; m. (1) RUBY EMILY BRIERLEY33; m. (2) SARAH MRS FREDERICK MAGGS33; m. (3) ISABEL WOOD33. More About FREDERICK STANLEY MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jul 200233 vi. ALFRED FRANCIS MAGGS33, b. 19 Jun 1909, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33; d. 06 Feb 198733; m. FRANCES ESTELLE WILLOUGHBY33. More About ALFRED FRANCIS MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 vii. ERIC RAYMOND MAGGS33, b. 29 Nov 1910, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33; d. 29 Jan 198633; m. THELMA THOMPSON33. More About ERIC RAYMOND MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 viii. MARJORIE FLORENCE MAGGS33, b. 21 Jun 1912, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33; d. 20 Aug 197433; m. COLIN ADDISON33. More About MARJORIE FLORENCE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 ix. CLARICE MAGGS33, b. 20 Dec 1913, , Victoria, Australia33; m. RONALD STONE33. More About CLARICE MAGGS: Burial: , Queensland, Australia33 Record Change: 18 Feb 200133 12. ELIZA JANE7 MAGGS (SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)33 was born 27 Jul 1878 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia33, and died 31 May 1946 in Camberwell, Victoria, Australia33. She married WILLIAM NEWCOMB DOBBIN33 14 Mar 1900 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia34,35. He was born 02 Aug 1878 in Bendigo, Victoria, Australia35, and died 12 May 1960 in Brighton, Victoria, Australia35. More About ELIZA JANE MAGGS: Ancestral File Number: LN0T-NV35 Record Change: 20 Aug 199735 Notes for WILLIAM NEWCOMB DOBBIN: WILLIAM NEWCOMB DOBBIN, the second child of William Edward Jones Dobbin and Amelia Matilda Shoman, was born at Bendigo in the state of Victoria, on the 2 August 1878. He spent his early childhood years in the goldfields towns of Bendigo and Ballarat but by the time he was of age to start school his family had moved to Melbourne and he commenced his education at the Richmond State school. His first job as a baker's boy in Ringwood included delivering bread by bicycle to homes in that area, and that was how he met ELIZA JANE MAGGS. By the time he turned 17 he had decided to go to Western Australia so in 1895 he embarked on a ship named the "Inaminka" which carried a deck cargo of draught horses. While crossing the Great Australian Bight a severe storm was encountered and three of the fifteen horses on deck were killed. He found work in a timber camp in the south west,near Albany, and lived in a hut made of palings for a time with five other men. While he was there an itinerant Indian photographer named S.Bhan took a picture of the hut with its inhabitants standing outside. Approaching the turn of the century his mind turned to thoughts of marriage. He returned to Victoria and proposed to Eliza Jane. They were married on the 14 March 1900 at Lilydale Road Ringwood according to the rites of the Church of Christ by Thomas Hagger in the presence of George Maggs,the brother of the bride and Elizabeth Frances Bell. He and his bride returned to Western Australia on a ship called the "Oruba" and when their first child was born at Denmark, on the 18 January 1901 he named her VERA ORUBA DOBBIN. Eliza Jane found the living conditions very rough and because of poor health she returned to Victoria when Vera was three months old. William followed on a ship called the "Suvic". Their second child, Cyril William Dobbin was born at Ringwood in October 1902 where William worked an orchard owned by his father-in-law, Sam Maggs. He purchased from Sam an area in Wonga Park Rd, (now Kalinda Rd) north of the creek which had been planted as a cherry orchard and part of the area on the corner of Oban Road He also worked in a pottery and in the 1905 Sands and McDougall directory he is listed as a brick and tile maker. In 1917 he rented premises in Main Street (Whitehorse Road), Ringwood, then newly built by J.B.McAlpin, the estate agent, on the corner of Melbourne Street. The shop between A.C.Beilby's store and McAlpin's office on the corner was opened as "The Railway Fruit and Confectionary Palace" and a shop in Melbourne Street, which adjoined the Main Street shop at the rear, became "The Fernery Refreshment Rooms". Three more children were born at Ringwood, Leonard Suvic in 1905, Clarence Newcomb in 1907, and the youngest child, a daughter named Elvie Olive in 1909. A fruit shop in Melrose Street, Sandringham, "The Covent Garden Fruit Palace" was purchased in 1921 and later taken over by his son Cyril. During the early 1930's his marriage failed and he went to Williamstown and opened a florist shop in the name of Walter Dobson which did very well. He married again and settled down to a life of retirement in Prahran, but his second wife, Elsie Fritzlaff (formerly Mrs Wilson) died unexpectedly and he was left alone once more. His eyesight deteriorated badly in his later years and he eventually entered the Mair Street Home for the Blind in Brighton where he died on the 12 May 1960. More About WILLIAM NEWCOMB DOBBIN: Ancestral File Number: LN0S-PW35 Record Change: 31 Mar 200135 Children of ELIZA MAGGS and WILLIAM DOBBIN are: i. ELVIE OLIVE8 DOBBIN35, m. ROY STEWART35; b. 1904, Landsborough, Victoria, Australia35; d. 30 Jun 1992, , Victoria, Australia35. More About ROY STEWART: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 ii. VERA ORUBA DOBBIN35, b. 18 Jan 1901, Denmark, W.A., Australia35; d. 16 May 1995, Warwick, W.A., Australia35; m. ALEXANDER FRANCIS LAIRD35, 16 May 1923, Hampton, Victoria, Australia35; b. 24 Sep 1898, Collingwood, Victoria, Australia35; d. 21 Jul 1981, Kallaroo, W.A., Australia35. More About VERA ORUBA DOBBIN: Record Change: 02 Sep 200435 More About ALEXANDER FRANCIS LAIRD: Ancestral File Number: LN0Q-QS35 Record Change: 02 Sep 200435 iii. CYRIL WILLIAM DOBBIN35, b. 22 Oct 1902, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia35; d. 10 Aug 1989, Frankston, Victoria, Australia35; m. FLORENCE CONSTANCE DAVIDSON35, 22 Mar 1925, Brighton, Victoria, Australia35; b. 08 Mar 1903, South Melbourne, Victoria, Australia35; d. Jun 1987, Australia35. More About CYRIL WILLIAM DOBBIN: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 Notes for FLORENCE CONSTANCE DAVIDSON: Notes: written by Carol Humphrey (daughter) 2001 Florence Constance Davidson, born in South Melbourne, was the second eldest child in her family. Her father worked for the Victorian railways and while stationed in Hamilton, Victoria, had met and married her mother. The family moved to the city from Hamilton, in 1903. They spent a brief period in South Melbourne before taking up residence in Ringwood. Throughout her life Florence answered to many different versions of her name. When she was small could never manage to say her full name, the best she could come up with was “Wonnie Connie Davie”. All of her life her immediate family called her “Won” (a shortened version of “Wonnie”). Her husband, Cyril, called her Florrie and her close friends called her Flo. She attended State School 2997, at the corner of Whitehorse Road and Ringwood Street, Ringwood. In the later stages of her schooling, each Wednesday, she travelled to Glenferrie Technical College (now Swinburne College) in Burwood Road, to attended cooking and laundry classes. She travelled by train to attend these classes and was given 1/- (one shilling) to cover the expenses for the day. A three course meal, which she helped to prepare, cost 3d. (three pence), her train fare cost 8d. (eight pence), leaving her one penny. Depending on the family finances for that week, sometimes she was allowed to spend the change. After leaving school she signed up as an apprentice tailoress. She began her apprenticeship on 9th May 1919, with Charles Lane & Co., whose workroom was in Flinders Lane Melbourne, between Elizabeth and Market Streets; the shop was on the corner of Flinders Lane and Elizabeth Street. Her wages for the first six months were 7 shillings and 6 pence and they increased gradually over the four year period of the apprenticeship to 35 shillings. After completing her apprenticeship she worked at Jimmy Oliver’s workroom at the back of Melbourne Town Hall, in Little Collins Street. She left this position when she married Cyril Dobbin in 1925. During her married life Florence worked in the family business in Melrose Street, as well as raising a family of 6 children. She sewed and knitted for her children, was a great cook and she was very meticulous with her laundry, which was probably a reflection of her lessons in cooking and laundry taken years earlier. In later life, when she had more time to herself, she loved to read and was a wizard at crossword puzzles, cryptic crossword puzzles and Scrabble (a word game). More About FLORENCE CONSTANCE DAVIDSON: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 iv. LEONARD SUVIC DOBBIN35, b. 04 Jan 1905, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia35; d. Jan 194435; m. ALMA WEBSTER35. More About LEONARD SUVIC DOBBIN: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 v. CLARENCE NEWCOMB DOBBIN35, b. 17 Mar 1907, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia35; d. 22 Jun 1977, Prahan, Victoria, Australia35; m. ELLEN PEARL ISELIN35, 04 Jul 1936, Camberwell, Victoria, Australia35; b. 17 Nov 1910, Richmond, Victoria, Australia35; d. 24 Aug 1979, Burwood, Victoria, Australia35. More About CLARENCE NEWCOMB DOBBIN: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 More About ELLEN PEARL ISELIN: Record Change: 18 Feb 200135 13. JAMES7 MAGGS (SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)35 was born 15 May 1880 in Lilydale, Victoria, Australia35, and died 28 Jul 1940 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia35. He married CATHERINE ATKINS35 24 Apr 1901 in , Victoria, Australia36,37. She was born 04 Nov 1882 in St Arnaud, Victoria, Australia37, and died 11 Oct 1960 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37. More About JAMES MAGGS: Burial: 30 Jul 1940, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia37 Record Change: 23 Jan 200537 More About CATHERINE ATKINS: Burial: 18 Oct 1960, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia37 Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 Children of JAMES MAGGS and CATHERINE ATKINS are: i. RUBY ISABEL GENIVEVE8 MAGGS37, m. (1) RODERICK CASSIDY37; m. (2) CHARLES BRUCE37. ii. BEULAH LEAH DRUCILLA DAPHNE MAGGS37, m. HERBERT BOPPEL37. iii. OLIVER SAMUEL JAMES MAGGS37, b. 10 Jan 1903, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37; d. 1974, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia37; m. RITA MARGUERITE PICKETT37; b. Abt. 1903, of, Victoria, Australia37; d. 1971, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37. More About OLIVER SAMUEL JAMES MAGGS: Record Change: 22 Jul 200237 More About RITA MARGUERITE PICKETT: Record Change: 21 Jan 200237 iv. DOUGLAS LINDSAY GORDON MAGGS37, b. 30 Dec 1904, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37; d. 1977, ,Victoria, Australia37; m. EDITH EMMA ANNE MEYLAND37, Abt. 1930, , Victoria, Australia37; b. 01 Oct 1905, of, Australia37; d. 1980, ,Victoria, Australia37. More About DOUGLAS LINDSAY GORDON MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jul 200237 More About EDITH EMMA ANNE MEYLAND: Record Change: 21 Jul 200237 v. LAURENCE REGINALD VIVIAN MAGGS37, b. 26 Jun 1906, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37; d. 04 Jul 1955, Ashburton, Victoria, Australia37; m. DOROTHY CLAIRE SKURRIE37. More About LAURENCE REGINALD VIVIAN MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 vi. BASIL RODERICK SYLVESTER MAGGS37, b. 06 Sep 191037; d. 04 Oct 1969, Aspendale, Victoria, Australia37; m. DOROTHY BURLOCK37. More About BASIL RODERICK SYLVESTER MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jan 200237 vii. LEWIS KEVIN MAXWELL MAGGS37, b. 30 May 1912, , of Victoria, Australia37; d. 11 Nov 1948, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37. More About LEWIS KEVIN MAXWELL MAGGS: Record Change: 13 Jul 200037 viii. RONALD ALBURY RUSSEL MAGGS37, b. 25 Sep 1914, , Victoria, Australia37; d. 20 Mar 1960, St Kilda, Victoria, Australia37; m. ELVIE MARY IRENE MAGGS37, Abt. 1946, , Australia37; b. 02 Jun 1920, , of Victoria, Australia37; d. 04 Feb 196837. More About RONALD ALBURY RUSSEL MAGGS: Burial: 23 Mar 1960, Springvale, Victoria, Australia37 Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 More About ELVIE MARY IRENE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 ix. JAMES RALPH MCKENNA MAGGS37, b. 17 Nov 1921, , Victoria, Australia37; d. 18 Aug 1973, Ashwood, Victoria, Australia37; m. SYLVIA GRACE MAGGS37, Abt. 194237; b. 1925, of, Victoria, Australia37; d. 22 May 200237. More About JAMES RALPH MCKENNA MAGGS: Burial: 22 Aug 1973, Templestowe, Victoria, Australia37 Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 More About SYLVIA GRACE MAGGS: Record Change: 24 Mar 200337 14. SAMUEL WILLIAM7 MAGGS (SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)37 was born 01 Jan 1889 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37, and died 15 Jan 1955 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia37. He married MINA LILLIAN SCHUHKRAFT37 21 Jun 1911 in , Victoria, Australia37. She was born 21 Jun 189037, and died 1974 in Leongatha, Victoria, Australia37. More About SAMUEL WILLIAM MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200137 More About MINA LILLIAN SCHUHKRAFT: Record Change: 21 Jan 200237 Children of SAMUEL MAGGS and MINA SCHUHKRAFT are: i. BRIAN LESLIE8 MAGGS37, m. JEAN AIRD37. ii. CLIVE LIONEL MAGGS37, m. ALBERTA HARRIS37. iii. DONALD FREDERICK MAGGS37, m. PAULEEN HIGGS37. iv. RUSSELL IAN MAGGS37, m. VINA ANDERSON MILLAR37; b. 21 Jan 1928, Kew, Victoria, Australia37; d. 04 Nov 199437. More About VINA ANDERSON MILLAR: Record Change: 10 Jul 200237 v. MINA LYLA MAGGS37, m. WILLIAM ERNEST MATTHEWS37. vi. NANCY ELIN MAGGS37, m. ROBERT JOHN BRUCE37. vii. KEITH ALAN MAGGS37. 15. JEMIMA7 MAGGS (SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)38,39 was born 16 Dec 1881 in Warrandyte, Victoria, Australia39, and died 02 Nov 195539. She married EDWARD LINDSAY40,41 190542, son of JAMES LINDSAY and HELEN CORMLEY. He was born 188242, and died 194243,44. More About JEMIMA MAGGS: Burial: 04 Nov 1955, Box Hill, Victoria, Australia45 Record Change: 16 Jul 200146 Notes for EDWARD LINDSAY: [Ringwood.ged] See Borough Visitors Book 14 Borough Voters Roll 1924 Borough of Ringwood Voters List 12,13 More About EDWARD LINDSAY: Burial: Box Hill Cemetery46 Record Change: 15 Aug 200146 Children of JEMIMA MAGGS and EDWARD LINDSAY are: i. MYRTLE IVY8 LINDSAY46,47, b. 190648; d. 197948; m. BERT QUICK49. More About MYRTLE IVY LINDSAY: Record Change: 15 Aug 200150 ii. EUNICE EVELYN LINDSAY50,51, b. 190952; d. 197552; m. ROY LONG53. More About EUNICE EVELYN LINDSAY: Record Change: 15 Aug 200154 iii. CLUTHA BRUCE LINDSAY54,55, b. 191156; d. 198156. More About CLUTHA BRUCE LINDSAY: Record Change: 15 Aug 200156 16. JANE EMMA7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)56,57 was born 188358, and died 28 Jul 195459. She married FREDERICK ALFRED BLOOM59 14 Oct 1910 in , Victoria, Australia59. He was born 1882 in Doncaster, Victoria, Australia59. More About JANE EMMA MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200160 More About FREDERICK ALFRED BLOOM: Record Change: 18 Feb 200161 Child of JANE MAGGS and FREDERICK BLOOM is: i. HAROLD GRIFFITHS8 BLOOM61, b. 25 Nov 191161; d. 18 Jun 200061; m. MARJORIE HORSBURGH61. More About HAROLD GRIFFITHS BLOOM: Burial: 23 Jun 2000, Anderson's Creek, Victoria, Australia61 Record Change: 13 Jul 200061 17. JAMES JOHN7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)62,63 was born 188564, and died 24 Aug 1962 in Parkville, Victoria, Australia65. He married JOHANNA IDA EDITH BLOOM65 23 Oct 1912 in , Victoria, Australia65. She was born 1880 in Doncaster, Victoria, Australia65, and died 22 Sep 1964 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia65. More About JAMES JOHN MAGGS: Burial: Springvale, Victoria, Australia65 Record Change: 01 Sep 200166 More About JOHANNA IDA EDITH BLOOM: Record Change: 18 Feb 200167 Children of JAMES MAGGS and JOHANNA BLOOM are: i. MERLE ADRIENNE8 MAGGS67, m. EDWARD BARNFATHER67. ii. LINTON DAVID MAGGS67, b. 31 Jan 1915, , Victoria, Australia67; d. 28 Nov 198667; m. DOROTHY JEEVES67. More About LINTON DAVID MAGGS: Burial: , Queensland, Australia67 Record Change: 26 Feb 199967 iii. RALPH LINDSAY MAGGS67, b. 05 May 1921, , Victoria, Australia67; d. 1960, , N.S.W., Australia67; m. MAVIS HYLAND67. More About RALPH LINDSAY MAGGS: Record Change: 15 Oct 200167 iv. BETTINA MIRIAM MAGGS67, b. 30 Apr 1923, , Victoria, Australia67; d. 12 Feb 194967. More About BETTINA MIRIAM MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia67 Record Change: 05 Mar 199967 18. SAMUEL ARTHUR7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)68,69 was born 188870, and died 07 Aug 1957 in Doncaster, Victoria, Australia71. He married BERTHA ANNA PUMP71 01 Oct 1913 in , Victoria, Australia71. She was born 1887 in Doncaster, Victoria, Australia71, and died 13 Nov 1963 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia72,73. More About SAMUEL ARTHUR MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200174 More About BERTHA ANNA PUMP: Record Change: 18 Feb 200175 Children of SAMUEL MAGGS and BERTHA PUMP are: i. NELLIE8 MAGGS75, m. THOMAS WHITMORE75. ii. MARY MAGGS75, m. (1) HECTOR WHITMORE75; m. (2) THOMAS BAKER75. iii. LESLIE JOHN MAGGS75, m. PATRICIA BONNEY75. 19. JOHN WILLIAM7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)76,77 was born 189078, and died 18 Feb 1959 in Cobram, Victoria, Australia79. He married LILLIAN MABEL MAY SMITH79 20 Nov 1909 in Fitzroy, Victoria, Australia79. She was born 1888 in Walhalla, Victoria, Australia79, and died 18 Jul 1969 in Fitzroy, Victoria, Australia79. More About JOHN WILLIAM MAGGS: Record Change: 01 Sep 200180 More About LILLIAN MABEL MAY SMITH: Record Change: 21 Jan 200281 Children of JOHN MAGGS and LILLIAN SMITH are: i. BASIL ROBERT BOB8 MAGGS81, m. (1) FRANCES MAY CUNNINGHAM81; b. 05 May 1907, North Melbourne, Victoria, Australia81; d. 21 Jan 1947, Lilydale, Victoria, Australia81; m. (2) MARGARET JESSIE PEG LINCOLN81. More About FRANCES MAY CUNNINGHAM: Record Change: 21 Jul 200281 ii. RONALD JNO. MAGGS81. iii. GLADYS ELLA MAGGS81, m. CHARLES KEATING81. iv. EDNA LILLIAN MAGGS81, m. ALBERT ROWE81. v. CLIFFORD HENRY MAGGS81, m. SHIRLEY SMITH81. vi. EVELYN CHRISTINA MAGGS81, m. (1) FREDERICK HENRY CROSS81; b. 18 Aug 1928, of, Australia81; d. 25 Aug 196881; m. (2) LEONARD LLEWELYN HUGHES81; m. (3) RONALD FRANK BOLLARD81. More About FREDERICK HENRY CROSS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200181 vii. IVOR CYRIL EDWARD MAGGS81, b. 03 Mar 1910, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia81; d. 09 Mar 1992, Lilydale, Victoria, Australia81; m. ISABELLA CUNNINGHAM81. More About IVOR CYRIL EDWARD MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200181 viii. LORNA AGNES MAGGS81, b. 31 Jul 1915, , Victoria, Australia81; d. 1981, Ararat, Victoria, Australia81; m. ALBERT HUNTER81. More About LORNA AGNES MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200181 ix. EDWARD WILLIAM TINY MAGGS81, b. 08 Feb 1918, , Victoria, Australia81; d. 24 Aug 198281; m. MURIEL EMILY MORELAND81, 23 Jan 194381; b. 07 Dec 1917, of, Australia81; d. 27 Dec 2001, Bega, N.S.W., Australia81. More About EDWARD WILLIAM TINY MAGGS: Record Change: 07 Jan 200281 More About MURIEL EMILY MORELAND: Record Change: 07 Jan 200281 x. JOHN DAVID JACK MAGGS81, b. 05 Jun 192281; d. 04 Feb 1942, Rabaul, New Guinea, Ww281. More About JOHN DAVID JACK MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200181 xi. MAUREEN LESLEY MAGGS81, b. 12 Jul 1929, , Victoria, Australia81; d. 05 Jul 1989, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia81; m. STEPHEN BELL81. More About MAUREEN LESLEY MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200181 20. ROBERT THOMAS7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)82,83 was born 189384, and died 12 Mar 198185. He married EDITH ELLEN BRITNELL85 30 Mar 1919 in , Victoria, Australia85. She was born 1893 in , of Victoria, Australia85, and died 07 Sep 1973 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia85. More About ROBERT THOMAS MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia85 Record Change: 01 Sep 200186 More About EDITH ELLEN BRITNELL: Record Change: 18 Feb 200187 Children of ROBERT MAGGS and EDITH BRITNELL are: i. GRACE ANNIE8 MAGGS87, m. JACOB BENNETT87. ii. BERYL ELLEN MAGGS87. iii. DOROTHY OLIVE PAT MAGGS87, m. ARTHUR BRYAN87; b. 08 May 1928, of, Australia87; d. 06 Jun 2004, ,Victoria, Australia87. More About ARTHUR BRYAN: Record Change: 08 Jun 200487 iv. GORDON ROBERT MAGGS87, m. MARY ELIZABETH BETTY GRAHAM87; b. , , of Victoria, Australia87; d. 28 Oct 1995, Swan Hill, Victoria, Australia87. More About MARY ELIZABETH BETTY GRAHAM: Record Change: 18 Feb 200187 v. WINIFRED FLORENCE MAGGS87, m. FRANK MCMILLAN87. vi. ELVIE MARY IRENE MAGGS87, b. 02 Jun 1920, , of Victoria, Australia87; d. 04 Feb 196887; m. (1) JAMES ANDERSON87; m. (2) RONALD ALBURY RUSSEL MAGGS87, Abt. 1946, , Australia87; b. 25 Sep 1914, , Victoria, Australia87; d. 20 Mar 1960, St Kilda, Victoria, Australia87. More About ELVIE MARY IRENE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200187 More About RONALD ALBURY RUSSEL MAGGS: Burial: 23 Mar 1960, Springvale, Victoria, Australia87 Record Change: 18 Feb 200187 vii. ALEXANDER NORMAN MAGGS87, b. 19 Jan 192787; d. 199387. More About ALEXANDER NORMAN MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200187 viii. ARTHUR THOMAS MAGGS87, b. 22 Jun 1936, , Victoria, Australia87; d. 15 Apr 1945, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia87. More About ARTHUR THOMAS MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jan 200287 21. ALBERT EDWARD7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)88,89 was born 189590, and died 197690. He married FLORENCE SARAH PEARCE91 06 Jul 1918 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia91. She was born Abt. 1898 in , of Victoria, Australia91, and died 1973 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia91. More About ALBERT EDWARD MAGGS: Burial: Springvale, Victoria, Australia91 Record Change: 01 Sep 200192 More About FLORENCE SARAH PEARCE: Record Change: 21 Jul 200293 Children of ALBERT MAGGS and FLORENCE PEARCE are: i. JEAN EVELYN8 MAGGS93, b. 31 Oct 1918, Mitcham, Victoria, Australia93; d. 31 Mar 199093; m. ALBERT ERNEST BENNETT93. More About JEAN EVELYN MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200193 ii. STANLEY EDWARD MAGGS93, b. 17 Mar 1920, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia93; d. 26 Mar 1980, Ringwood, Victoria, Australia93. More About STANLEY EDWARD MAGGS: Record Change: 22 Jul 200293 iii. RUTH FLORENCE MAGGS93, b. 20 Dec 1923, , Victoria, Australia93; d. 15 Aug 197193; m. THOMAS BOYCE93. More About RUTH FLORENCE MAGGS: Record Change: 18 Feb 200193 22. EVALEEN VICTORIA7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)94,95 was born 189796, and died 05 Sep 198997. She married SYDNEY NORMAN TILL97 12 Jun 1920 in , Australia97. He died 10 Mar 193197. More About EVALEEN VICTORIA MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia97 Record Change: 01 Sep 200198 More About SYDNEY NORMAN TILL: Record Change: 18 Feb 200199 Children of EVALEEN MAGGS and SYDNEY TILL are: i. ALISON8 TILL99. ii. ALWYN TILL99, b. 09 May 192199; d. 28 Aug 1944, , Ww299. More About ALWYN TILL: Record Change: 18 Feb 200199 23. MARY ANN HASE POLLY7 MAGGS (JAMES6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)99 was born 05 Jul 1881 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia99, and died 09 Nov 196199. She married THOMAS CAREY LAWFORD99 1906 in , Victoria, Australia99. He was born 1883 in Box Hill, Victoria, Australia99. More About MARY ANN HASE POLLY MAGGS: Burial: Box Hill, Victoria, Australia99 Record Change: 18 Feb 200199 More About THOMAS CAREY LAWFORD: Record Change: 18 Feb 200199 Children of MARY MAGGS and THOMAS LAWFORD are: i. LINDA ISOBEL8 LAWFORD99, b. 14 May 190799; d. 08 Mar 199699. More About LINDA ISOBEL LAWFORD: Record Change: 26 Feb 199999 ii. MELBA LAWFORD99, b. 08 May 190899; d. 199599. More About MELBA LAWFORD: Record Change: 26 Feb 199999 iii. OLIVE LAWFORD99, b. 30 Apr 190999; d. 24 Mar 198799; m. ERIC BLANCHFLOWER99. More About OLIVE LAWFORD: Record Change: 26 Feb 199999 Generation No. 4 24. GEORGE ALBERT8 MAGGS (GEORGE7, SAMUEL6, JAMES5, JOSEPH4, WILLIAM3, WILLIAM2, SAMUEL1)99 was born 17 Jul 1902 in Ringwood, Victoria, Australia99, and died 1974 in Heidelberg, Victoria, Australia99. He married THELMA LILIAN SMITH99 17 Oct 1923 in , Australia99. She was born Abt. 1906 in of, Victoria, Australia99, and died 1974 in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia99. More About GEORGE ALBERT MAGGS: Record Change: 21 Jan 200299 More About THELMA LILIAN SMITH: Record Change: 22 Jul 200299 Child of GEORGE MAGGS and THELMA SMITH is: i. SYLVIA GRACE9 MAGGS99, b. 1925, of, Victoria, Australia99; d. 22 May 200299; m. JAMES RALPH MCKENNA MAGGS99, Abt. 194299; b. 17 Nov 1921, , Victoria, Australia99; d. 18 Aug 1973, Ashwood, Victoria, Australia99. More About SYLVIA GRACE MAGGS: Record Change: 24 Mar 200399 More About JAMES RALPH MCKENNA MAGGS: Burial: 22 Aug 1973, Templestowe, Victoria, Australia99 Record Change: 18 Feb 200199 This is the parent record for the archives collection of the Maggs family in the Ringwood area.

Written in the Melbourne "ARGUS" newspaper on the 17th February 1941 under "COUNTRY SPORTS - TENNIS". In the B Grade contests for the Norman Grills Cup Learmonth No. 2 (E. Blain, J. Blain), W. McIntyre, L. Hucker, The Misses M. Ryan, D. Grills, J. Thomas and D. Dean d. Garibaldi. These players were all from the Learmonth and Weatherboard districts.A sepia photo on cardboard backing 12 x 9 1/2 inches. The photo itself is 7 1/2 x 5 3/4 inches in a landscape shape. There are 5 men and four women tennis players, all holding tennis rackets with a Premiership Cup at their feet.Learmonth No. 2 Country Week Tennis Team. Winners Season 1941. Names L-R Back row. L. Hucker (Vic, Capt.), W. McIntyre (Weatherboard), L. Rasdell, E. Blain. L-R Front row. Miss D. Dean (Mrs Toleman), Miss J. Thomas (Mrs Lyttle. Weatherboard), J. Blain (Capt.), Miss D. Grills (Mrs David Baird), Miss M. Ryan (Mrs Harrison. Weatherboard). Photographer - Thornton, Richards & Co, Ballarat.learmonth. tennis team, 1941, hucker, mcintyre, rasdell. blain, dean, thomas, grills, ryan

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Ballarat Junior Technical School opened in 1913. It was located at the Dana Street State School. As numbers grew a larger building was needed. Plans were drawn and a school built within the grounds of the School of Mines. Students started at this new school in 1921. It was officially opened on 9 September 1921 by Sir Alexander, resident of Creswick, local member for North Ballarat and the Minister for Education. He also opened the School Fair which coincided with the buildings ceremony. This was a fair on a grand scale and lasted two days and nights. Staff and students worked for weeks making articles for sale. A parent's committee led by Mr J Rogerson, a local police detective, had been organizing for months. Money raised funded the dodge-ball court, purchased a typewriter, a second-hand piano, an inter-room telephone system, an epidiascope and film projector. Four pages of lined paper showing handwritten results for raffles held at Ballarat Junior Technical Schhool in 1921. Pages held together with a dressmaker's pin.J Rogerson, official drawerballarat junior technical school, dana street primary school, ballarat school of mines, 1921, sir alexander, school fair, parent's committee, j rogerson, police detective, dodge-ball court, typewriter, piano, telephone system, epidiascope, film projector

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Photographs taken of the first computer of Ballarat School of Mines / Ballarat Institute of Advanced Education Mount Helen Campus. This mainframe computer was purchased in 1969 for $116,000 and set up in the First Stage Engineering building (later F Building). It was the first operational teaching facility on the new campus. The initial computer centre staff were Arch McKinnon ad Manager and Judy Wilson as Key Punch Operator.. In 1972 Brian Dixon operated this computer for a night or two a week. He obtained an operators certificate as part of a Maths course at Ballarat College of Advanced Education, and lecturer Arch McKinnon offered Brian Dixon a night job.Four photographs relating to the ICL1911A computer. The computer was known as 'George' and called itself 'George'. .1) Two women standing behind a large ICL1901A .2) A woman in Ballarat School of Mines uniform stands behind an ICL computer item .3) & .5) Three women in a mainframe computer room .4) a woman operates a card punch machine .3 and .4 are shown in the Ballarat School of Mines Handbook, 1970, page 57computer, key punch, punch cards, icl1901a, g. durand, judith wilson, vivvian gay, jane henderson, brian dixon

The fourth Battalion appears to be made up of Castlemaine and Bendigo Residents.Four magazine photographs. .1) Kitchen of the Fourth Battalion .2) Cadet Display at the Exhibition Ground, Jubilee Week, 1887 .3) 4th Battalion in Quarter Formation. .4) A group of Fourth Battalion officers, 1898 VersO - Certificate of the Royal Geographical Society of Australasiaarmed services, fourth battalion, cadets, voluntary regiment, kitchen, exhibition grounds, militia

The Weekly Times of 22 Feb 1919 reported: "Ballarat Men Return - A few motor car owners in Ballarat have regularly met returning soldiers and conveyed them and their relatives to their homes. Most constant of all In this respect have been Messrs D. Ronaldson and J. H. Davey, and Mrs W. D. Thompson, president, and Miss , Bell, secretary, of the Welcome Home Com mittee. A body has been organised to "control the work, as parties of soldiers. are returning with greater frequency. The photograph was most likely taken upon the return of Harry Holmes of Ascot around 24 June 1919. The Ballarat Courier of 25 June 1919 reported: "ASCOT RETURN OF SOLDIERS. Four more returned soldiers from this district arrived home this week, and word motored out from Ballarat on arrival of the train on Mondayevening last. They were Lance-Corporal H. Holmes, Driver Frank Thomas, Driver S. G. Spittle, and Driver Leslie Walter, the last named hailing from Coghill’s Creek. They were all members of the A.A.S.C., and have been on active service since 1915, and up to the signing of the armistice, which occurred while they were in France. They took part in the big. operations at Villers-Bretonneux, and also at Mont St. Quentin, and spent the terrible winter of 1916 on the Somme. An informal welcome awaited them on their homeward journey in the cars, a large number of friends greeting them on the roadside, where a large bonfire had been lit in their honor. An official welcome will be tendered them later on.Four black and white photographs of Lydiard Street North, Ballarat, with lines with people awaiting a parade. The parade includes soldiers in uniform on horseback. world war one, returned soldiers, welcome home committee, harry holmes, gordon spittle, leslie walter, frank thomas, holmes family collection, chatham-holmes family collection

Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company was founded in 1857 by James E. A. Gibbs and James Willcox and opened its London Office in 1859 at 135 Regent Street . By 1871 the Company's Chief Office for Europe was at 150 Cheapside, London, this office was later moved (post 1885) to 94 - 96 Wigmore Street, then 37 & 39 Moorgate Street (by 1891 to post 1907) and later 20 Fore Street, London . Right from the initial production the manufacturing of the Company's single thread, chain stitch machine was undertaken by Brown & Sharpe, Rhode Island and this continued up until 1948. A special hand crank mechanism was produced in England for the European market, but the general design of the Willcox & Gibbs remained essentially the same throughout its production. The only major improvement was in 1875 when the glass tension discs were replaced with an automatic tension device which ensured the machine could not get out of adjustment. In addition to the domestic hand and treadle machines the company produced a wide range of industrial models. The Company finally closed in 1973. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America in the late 1860's but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The cloth plate has various American patent dates, four dating between 1857 & 1860 relating to J. E. A. Gibbs, three dating between 1860 & 1864 relating to Chas H. Willcox (son of James Willcox), the machine was also licensed under five other patents including the infamous Elias Howe patent of 1846. There are only two English patents one for J. E. A Gibbs and the other for James Willcox. In 1887 a W & G Sewing Machine sold in England for 6 pounds , with its box and bits, at a time when the average wage was less than 10/- shillings per week. The early settlers of Moorabbin Shire had to be self sufficient making their own clothes, tableware, bed coverings, furnishings and equipment. The women were skilled dressmakers and craft workers.Willcox and Gibbs: Serial No. 158679. A single thread, chain stitch Sewing Machine with a special hand crank mechanism produced in England for the European market, and the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. This Willcox & Gibbs came complete with its wooden carry case. The machine was made in America c1870 but it has the ornate hand crank produced at Coalbrookdale near Telford, England which was, in Victorian times, renown for producing high quality ornate iron castings. This machine has the glass tension discs which were used on domestic models until 1875. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base casting and it also has a deep wooden base. The Willcox & Gibbs badge is located on the rear of the base castingsewing machines, early settlers, pioneers, moorabbin, brighton, gibbs james, willcox james, willcox henry, new york, america, dressmaking, mateial, machine makers, wrought iron work, telford england

Bendigo Easter Fair 1985, April 5-8. Programme Booklet. Friday: Sun Loon Display, Easter Bowling Carnival, Rotary Easter Art Show, Book Bazaar, Model Railroaders Exhibition, Dudley House, Exhibition of Dolls, Embroiderers Guild, Art Gallery. Saturday: Mardi-Gras Street Carnival, Busking, Outdoor Theatre, Arts & Music, Bendigo Theatre Company, Cynthia Holland & Bendigo Talent Club Sun Loong Display, Rotary Art Show, Handcraft Bazaar, Motorcycle Show-Sandhurst Historic Vehicle Club Trams, Central Deborah, Dudley House, Exhibition Dolls, Antique Fair, Model Railroaders, Fire Brigades' Carnival for Children, Horse & Harness Parade, Book Bazaar, Bowling Carnival, Football, Photographic Exhibition, Family Activities, Cinema 180, Exhibition of Paintings silver furniture & porcelain, Embroiders Guild. Sunday: Horse Spectacular, Model Railroaders, Rotary Art Show, Handcraft Bazaar, Antique & Historical Display of Arms Weapons & Military, Antique Fair, Torchlight Procession, Awakening of Dragon, Exhibition of Dolls, Dudley House, Trams, Central Deborah, Book Bazaar, Mardi-Gras Street Carnival, Hargreaves Mall, Motorcycle Show, Photographic Exhibition, Family Activities, Cinema 180, Art Gallery, Embroiderers Guild. Monday: Philatelic Society Exhibition, Rotary Art Show, Handcraft Bazaar, Antique Fair, Model Railroaders, Bendigo District Bowling Assn. Easter Bowling Carnival, Exhibition of Dolls, Dudley House Bendigo Branch Royal Historical Society, Trams, Central Deborah, Motorcycle Show, Antique and Historical Display of Arms Weapons & Militaria, Mardi-Gras Street Carnival, Hargreaves Mall, Gala Street Procession, Carnival For Children, Sun Loong on Display, Photographic Exhibition, Fusion, Cinema 180, Art Gallery, Embroiders Guild. Church Services in Bendigo City Area During Easter (listings for Thursday, Good Friday, Eater Saturday, Easter Day). The Bendigo & District Tourism Association Welcomes you to Victoria's Premier Town. Listing of events over Easter with map to guide all around. Bendigo Easter Fair Incorporated Phone: (054) 43 9191Bendigo Easter Fair Inc. would like to thank the Ministry for the Arts for its continued assistance over the past 11 years. 3 1/2 pages of information on the Bendigo Easter Fair and its rich history dating back to 1871. The first Fair was held to aid 2 charities: Bendigo Base Hospital and the Home and Hospital for the Aged (Benevolent Asylum). Gone are the days of the Fancy Bazaar, Fat Baby Contest and the greasy Pig Chase, many tradition remain the same. Links to the Chinese community date back to when the first settlers arrived seeking gold. This gives the Fair its unique quality and Brings visitors in their thousands each Easter. The Monday Procession has always been the most famous as many old photographs show. Some photos taken before the turn of the century. Many made the journey to Bendigo from Melbourne and outlying districts. Visitors line the route to see floats, bands, and the once a year appearance of the Chinese Dragon, ''Sun Loong'' or ''New Dragon''. The longest Imperial Dragon in the World; 300ft plus in length. His predecessor, ''Long'', is acclaimed as the worlds oldest Imperial Dragon. Easter Saturday Procession has taken form of a Horse and Harness Parade, attracting and immense variety of entrants. The torchlight Procession on Sunday evening includes fireworks, Fire Brigades, Fire Trucks, firemen, marching girls and illuminated floats. The Army has helped with the procession since around the time of Federation. 15th Transport Squadron (15 Tpt. Sqdn.), processions are assembled & dispatched with Army efficiency. Marshalling the Monday Procession this year will be done by the Army as well as our own Easter Fair marshalls with a new communications system.1930 the Popular Girl contest was introduced. The four main streets of Bendigo, Pall Mall, Mitchell Street, Hargreaves Street and Williamson Street (formerly View Street), sponsored their particular girl by means of raffles, street stalls and a variety of fund raising. The winner was the one that raised the most money, and was announced from the balcony of the Shamrock Hotel, by the Mayor of Bendigo on Easter Saturday Night. The Popular girl contest is still held with a lot of the fund raising now done by service clubs and voluntary organizations. 1984 fund raising efforts, in excess of $50,000 was distributed to charities in our area. The combined Bendigo Brigades' record support for the Easter Fair goes back of many years in a variety of ways. Bendigo people are known for their love of sport and the choice in the city is very wide. There will be no Easter Sports Carnival this year but Easter Fair will still be holding functions at the Bendigo Sports Centre in Park Road. Bendigo city centre will be alive with stalls, raffles and rides of every description over the three days of sports, Sat-Sun. Hargreaves Mall will be the focus of relaxation, buskers, community theatre, arts with craft activity & musical entertainment. The Rotary Club of Bendigo and the Easter Fair Society had had independent Arts Shows but in 1981amalgamate their shows. 1981 Rotary Club of Bendigo added the Antique Fair to the Easter Program, held in the RSL Memorial Hall, Pall Mall. Last year some event were cancelled, but last year's Fair was quite a success. With many outdoor activities, the weather plays a vital role. It has been necessary to alter some venues in the past years, with Easter being a week early in April this year we are looking forward to fine conditions. The Chinese and Bendigo Easter Fair, The First Chinese arrived on the goldfields in mid 1850's in teams or groups to work the rich alluvial gold fields of Dai Gum San (Big Gold Mountain). Most were of poorer class from the district of See Yup, an area of four villages near the provincial capital Canton (Kwangchow). By far the largest group came from the village of Toi Shan. The alluvial gold quickly petered out so by the time of the first Bendigo Easter Fair in 1871 most Chinese had either left for richer fields or turned to other pursuits such as stores, market gardens, laundries, herbalists etc.. Many of course had died on the fields from the rigors of mining of diseases not encountered in their homeland. The Benevolent Asylum (Home & Hospital for the age) and Bendigo Base Hospital had become places of rest, help and haven for old, sick and lonely Chinese. SO when the idea was mooted to hold a charity fair to raise money for these worthy establishments, the Chinese were only too happy to join with the Easter Fair Society in this charitable work. It has for over 113 years. Chinese showed their costumes, scenery, and weapons of warfare, but it was not until 1892, that the first of the 5 loongs (dragons) appeared.. . The pageant was marshalled by Mr T Chapman and headed by Mr Moody, attired in habiliments of a most gorgeous character on a gaily caparisoned horse, and his get up as a Chinese grandee was perfect. . . Tom toms , bagpipes. . Wind instrument resembling a clarinet. . Bagpipes,.. The Weekly Advertiser, Friday, April 22,1892. . . Today the Chinese Association, made up of descendants and families of the early Chinese and associate members, carries on the charitable works of their predecessors. A Little Of Dragons, We have all heard of St. George Bendigo dragons (loongs) have none of these characteristics, in fact they have only brought good to Bendigo. There are 3 chief species of Chinese Dragons of which ''The Lung'' (Loong) is the most powerful. It is also the spiritual dragon which produces wind and rain. It has 9 resemblances, the head of a camel, horns of a deer, eyes of a rabbit ears of a cow, neck of a snake, belly of a frog, scales of a carp, claws of a hawk and palm of a tiger. Loong is a vegetarian, favourite food pomelo (ooluk), the father of our modern grapefruit. The abode, according to legend is the sky or water. He is also deaf, thus requiring loud noises to awaken him and to keep him awake. . . Number of claws they have represent rank. Dragons have 2, 3, 4 or 5 claws, the latter being reserved for the Emperor. Loong and Sun Loong have both five claw dragons. Bendigo has had 5 or 6 dragons, the number being confused by the fact each dragon was called 'Loong'. Today Three dragons remain in Bendigo, Loong, Sun Loong, and Yar Loong. Loong is the oldest Imperial Dragon in the world. He continued his walk through the streets of Bendigo til his retirement in 1970. He was created in Fat Shan in the Peoples Republic of China. Built of. . . Sun Loong replaced Loong after the 2 dragon procession of 1970. Created by Mr Law On, . . Yar Loong is a night dragon, came in 1930's. . . Long history of dragons. . The Birth Of A Dragon. . . To awaken A Dragon. . . The Easter Monday Chinese Procession. . . Procession divided into 6 sections,.. The Easter Monday Procession comprises,… over 350 people. Conclusion It is hoped that in the near future a museum can be built to house the priceless regalia gathered together over the last century and a half by the Bendigo Chinese Association. Advertisements; Historic Bendigo Pottery, Mim's Restaurant, Antique Fair (Rotary), The Copper Pot, Sandhurst Town (Develop Victoria Council Tourism Award 1983-1985), Bendigo Motor Co. (Mazda), Diggers, Chaplin's, Bendigo's Dunny Diner, Arakoon, Quin's Bluebird, Allara Motor Lodge, Lakeview Motor Inn, The Armoured Car Company, Gillies, Mardi Gras Street Carnival, Handcraft Bazaar, Art Show (Rotary) Bendigo Model Railroaders (Easter Exhibition), Bendigo Easter Fair Highland Games brought to you by TV8 and Coca-Cola Bottlers. Design and Finished Art By Graphics Group, Bendigo.Graphics Group Bendigoevent, easter fair, bendigo easter fair incorporated, bendigo easter fair 1985, april 5-8. programme. friday: sun loon display, easter bowling carnival, rotary easter art show, book bazaar, model railroaders exhibition, dudley house, exhibition of dolls, embroiderers guild, art gallery. saturday: mardi-gras street carnival, busking, outdoor theatre, arts & music, bendigo theatre company, cynthia holland & bendigo talent club sun loong display, rotary art show, handcraft bazaar, motorcycle show-sandhurst historic vehicle club trams, central deborah, dudley house, exhibition dolls, antique fair, model railroaders, fire brigades' carnival for children, horse & harness parade, book bazaar, bowling carnival, football, photographic exhibition, family activities, cinema 180, exhibition of paintings silver furniture & porcelain, embroiders guild. sunday: horse spectacular, model railroaders, rotary art show, handcraft bazaar, antique & historical display of arms weapons & military, antique fair, torchlight procession, awakening of dragon, exhibition of dolls, dudley house, trams, central deborah, book bazaar, mardi-gras street carnival, hargreaves mall, motorcycle show, photographic exhibition, family activities, cinema 180, art gallery, embroiderers guild. monday: philatelic society exhibition, rotary art show, handcraft bazaar, antique fair, model railroaders, bendigo district bowling assn. easter bowling carnival, exhibition of dolls, dudley house bendigo branch royal historical society, trams, central deborah, motorcycle show, antique and historical display of arms weapons & militaria, mardi-gras street carnival, hargreaves mall, gala street procession, carnival for children, sun loong on display, photographic exhibition, fusion, cinema 180, art gallery, embroiders guild. church services bendigo city easter , eater saturday bendigo & district tourism association victoria's premier town. bendigo easter fair incorporated bendigo easter fair rich history 1871. base hospital and the home and hospital for the aged (benevolent asylum). fancy bazaar, fat baby contest greasy pig chase, many old photographs floats, bands, chinese dragon, ''sun loong'' or ''new dragon''. the longest imperial dragon in the world; 300ft plus in length easter saturday procession horse harness parade. torchlight procession on sunday evening includes fireworks, fire brigades, fire trucks, firemen, marching girls and illuminated floats. army helped federation. 15th transport squadron (15 tpt. sqdn). monday procession by the army 1930 popular girl contest introduced. four main streets, pall mall, mitchell street, hargreaves street williamson street. winner announced shamrock hotel, easter saturday night. popular girl contest fund raising service clubs voluntary organizations. 1984 fund raising efforts, in excess $50, 000 distributed to charities. combined bendigo brigades'. no easter sports carnival holding functions bendigo sports centre in park road. stalls, raffles three days sports, sat-sun. relaxation, buskers, community theatre, arts with craft activity & musical rotary club of bendigo easter fair society independent arts shows in 1981amalgamate antique fair, held last year some event cancelled. with many outdoor activities, weather plays vital role. alter some venues in the past, easter being a week early first chinese arrived goldfields in mid 1850's dai gum san (big gold mountain). see yup, canton (kwangchow). toi shan. first easter fair in 1871 for richer fields other pursuits stores, market gardens, laundries, herbalists etc. benevolent asylum (home & hospital for the age) bendigo base hospital had become places of rest, help and haven for old, chinese. charity fair to raise money, chinese join easter fair society in this charitable work. costumes, scenery, weapons of warfare, 1892, the first of the 5 loongs. marshalled by mr t chapman by mr moody, caparisoned horse, chinese grandee. tom toms, wind instrument. bagpipes, advertiser, april 22, 1892. chinese association, descendants chinese and associate charitable works. st. george ''the lung'' most powerful. spiritual dragon wind rain. 9 resemblances, camel, deer, rabbit cow, snake, frog, carp, hawk tiger. a vegetarian, pomelo (ooluk), the abode, legend is the sky or water. deaf loud noises to keep him awake. claws represent rank. 2, 3, 4 or 5 claws, reserved for emperor. had 5 or 6 dragons called 'loong'. three dragons loong, sun loong, yar loong. loong oldest imperial dragon in the world. retirement 1970. created in fat shan peoples republic of china. built of. sun loong, loong 2 dragon procession 1970. created mr law on, yar loong a night dragon1930's.history dragons. birth of a dragon. awaken a dragon. easter monday chinese procession divided 6 sections 350 people. priceless regalia last century bendigo chinese association. advertisements; historic bendigo pottery, mim's restaurant, antique fair (rotary), the copper pot, sandhurst town (develop victoria council tourism award 1983-1985), bendigo motor co. (mazda), diggers, chaplin's, bendigo's dunny diner, arakoon, quin's bluebird, allara motor lodge, lakeview motor inn, armoured car company, gillies, mardi gras street carnival, handcraft bazaar, art show model railroaders highland games tv8 coca-cola. art by graphics group