The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

206 p., illus. (some col.), maps.non-fictionA history of the first 100 years of Kew Golf Club in Belford Road, East Kew, founded in 1894.golf clubs - kew, golf clubs - history, kew golf club

Letter was from a USA family member of a US soldier staying at a private residence in Bendigo. The US soldier was not permitted to communicate with family members as to their location. the Granger family circumvented that by sending a cable to his family and this letter was a reply to them..1) & .2) A4 page typed letter (2 pages) from Edna Johnson to Enid Granger. Black typed writing on cream coloured paper. Address on top and signed off on page 2. .3) Cream coloured envelope, address on front and six stamps. Various black stamps on front and air mail stamp address from written on back. .4) Small newspaper cut out photo of a young girl..1) Address on top - Edgemont Station, Box 241, East St, Louis, Ill, USA, April 10th 1942. .2) Signed "Sincerely Edna Johnson. .1) Address on front, Mrs Enid Granger, 32 Mt Korong Rd, Bendigo, Victoria, Australia.us soldiers, censorship, letter

1. Shell dressings for field wounds, designed to be carried on the person and to be used in the first instance on a wound. There are basic instructions on the dressing pack of how to treat the wound. Items 1. 2. & 3. have identical markings except for the Manufacturers date. 1. September 1941. 2. April 1941. 3. January 1944.1. “COMMONWEALTH OF AUSTRALIA SHELL DRESSING "See attachment for directions to use". “DO NOT HANDLE WOUND OR PAD. JOHNSON & JOHNSON Pty Ltd Sydney” 2. & 3. Markings are identical except for Manufacturers date: 1. September 1941. 2. April 1941. 3. January 1944.passchendaele barracks trust, field dressing, shell

Part of Frank Forster's baby feeding bottle collection. In Australia, this type of bottle was known as "Truflow"; and was manufactured by Johnson & Johnson. The missing 'c' on this bottle makes this bottle rare and of greater value than similar ones with the correct spelling. (Verbal communication: Helen Johnson) In Australia this type of bottle was known as "Truflow" which was also manufactured by Johnson & Johnson.Broadly cylindrical glass bottle, but flattened to create six sides. Graduations in ounces and cubic centimetres written on two sides. With cream coloured plastic top. The first 'c' in cubic is missing in the text on the bottle. Bottle carries the text "evenflo", "MADE IN U.S.A", "BOTTLE CONFIG. R". Text on base reads "FF (in circle) 18"infant feeding, dr frank forster

KNIFE WITH STEEL BLADE AND BONE HANDLEC. JOHNSON & CO. SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND. FAST HANDLEdomestic item, mclennan family, knife

Mackay collection - Hardcover miniature edition of Johnsons dictionary with signatures of H Parkes and Elizabeth Mackay along with other notations and records.Samuel Johnson L.L.Dbooks, technical, dictionary

3 slides of diseases Tepriodium and Rhizpmorphs dated Jun 2000. 4 slides labelled "DED DJ" (Denise Johnson) and 2 others.arboriculture, trees, diseases, tepriodium, rhyzomorphs, denise johnson

Wound dressings in a stitched calico wrapping. Four packs with instructions. First Field Dressing Johns & Johnson Pty Ltd Sydney Dated: April 1941, January 1943, July 1943 and January 1943

Black and white image of backyard of 321 Esplanade East. Looking West and showing a large building to the side and rear. This building was the premises of the Ideal Drum and Cask Company of 60 Lyons Street Port Melbourne. Taken early 1980sMarilyn Johnson provided the image and was the then owner of the property in the early 1980sbuilt environment - domestic, built environment - industrial, marilyn johnson, ideal drum and cask company

Community meeting held at the Eltham Senior Citizen's Centre to discuss Nillumbik Shire Council's advertised proposal to sell the former Shire Office site at 895 Main Road and the Eltham War Memorial complex of buildings at 903-907 Main Road; 13 October 2018Born digital image895 main road, 903-907 main road, community meeting, eltham pre-school, eltham shire office, eltham war memorial, eltham war memorial hall, infant welfare centre, nillumbik shire council, senior citizen's centre

Community meeting held at the Eltham Senior Citizen's Centre to discuss Nillumbik Shire Council's advertised proposal to sell the former Shire Office site at 895 Main Road and the Eltham War Memorial complex of buildings at 903-907 Main Road; 13 October 2018Born digital image895 main road, 903-907 main road, community meeting, eltham pre-school, eltham shire office, eltham war memorial, eltham war memorial hall, infant welfare centre, nillumbik shire council, senior citizen's centre

Written on list in sleeve, "High School - Bedford Rd. Ringwood. Photo Pupils - Form 1D. Reading from Left to Right: Back row boys: 1. Alan Carter, 2. ??, 3. Maurice Henry, 4. Peter Van Ketwich, 5. Douglas Hume, 6. ??, 7. John Callam, 8. ??, 9. ??, 10. ??, 11. Peter Gluth, 12. ??, 13. Geoff Edwards, 14. Len Armfield, 15. Ray Davidson".

Written on back of photograph, "Form 1A". List with photographs reads, "High School. Bedford Road, Ringwood. Photo pupils Form 1A (Names reading from Left to Right): Back Row boys: 1. David Newman, 2. ??, 3. George Cartwright, 4. Bruce Fletcher, 5. William Ader, 6. ??, 7. George Tew, 8. Edward Neff, 9. ??, 10. David Godfred, 11. James Day, 12. Geoffrey Asher. Boys sitting: 1. Colin Rowdie, 2. Graeme ?, 3. John Willis, 4. Max Bevis".

Menu for dinner given by Mayor of St Kilda on 30 November 1932.White card, discoloured with age, folded with a paper insert and tied with blue ribbon. Printed in blue with gold coat of arms on the cover. Insert printed in black.st kilda mayoral function

Hardcover with Dust Jacketarchitects, american architects, biography, architectural history, 20th century, walsh st library

Digital imageslove your sister, cancer, breast cancer, connie johnson, constance johnson, charity, unicycle, federation square

THE BIG HEART PROJECT Connie’s health is in decline and she’s slowly succumbing to the perils of cancer. She is beyond treatment now. But before she goes, she is determined to break a world-record of her own, to match her brother’s. She has called it The Big Heart Project and it will be Connie’s final fundraising act for Love Your Sister before she retires to be with her nearest and dearest. The world record for longest line of coins stands at 75.4kms and is held by a town in Austria. To break the record, Connie needs to collect 3.951 million five cent coins! Thousands of families around the country have already purchased metres ($2.90) and Connie will lay the coins in the shape of a MASSIVE love heart, visible from space, this coming May 10, at the Lyneham Netball Courts in her hometown of Canberra. Schools nationally are participating in ‘Five Cent Fridays’ and Bendigo Bank are providing a collection depot at each of their branches. The Royal Australian Mint are supplying the coins and Questacon have tasked their best scientists and mathematicians with the mechanics. Most importantly though, 100% of every donated coin will be passed on to the country’s best cancer researchers, IN FULL. You can donate a metre ($2.90) for a cancery loved on http://www.loveyoursister.org/big-heart-project Digital imagescancer, breast cancer, connie johnson, constance johnson, charity, 5c, 5 cents, coins, big heart project, love your sister, northbourne avenue, canberra

st paul's cathedral, st paul's, memorial service, connie, constance johnson, connie johnson, love your sister, village, villagers, cancer, charity, samuel johnson, sharon