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Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Waverley RSL Sub Branch
Razor
Used by J McRorie during WWII Assumed to be a "Going away gift" The factory address was 255 Cricklewood Broadway, London, N.W. 2, with showrooms located at 197a, Regent St., London, W.1. A U.S. importer was Lee & Schiffer, East 44th St., New York City. By 1937 the U.S. distributor was Rolls Razor, Inc., 305 East 45th St., New York. The eponymous product was a sophisticated safety-razor which promoted with the slogan "The razor that is stropped and honed in its case" the claimed first use was 1922. The U.S. patent for the method of attaching the blade to the handle was filed in 1925 and issued in 1930. The name "Rolls Razor (1927) Ltd." was used in advertising. The razor was still manufactured and sold until 1958 when the company was purchased by entrepreneur/corporate raider John Bloom who decided to focus on washing machines rather than the razor. Rolls Razor open case. The blade handle on the left is attached to the honing mechanism lever via a spring-loaded bearing. The nickel plated blade on the right side is attached to the honing bar that slides on the red leather strop. The grey honing stone is part of the closing lid. The leather strop and the hone lids are not interchangeable as the blade needs to push against the hone but pull against the strop. The blade has a safety guard with pivot action that allows it to vary the shaving angle while providing safe operation. The head of the blade handle locks perpendicular to the blade using a slide type of action with the spring-loaded bearing providing additional stabilityRolls razor in a plush lined leather covered metal case containing Razor, leather strop with automated blade sharpening mechanism and a changeable carbide plate fitter inside a silver inner caseRolls Razorrazor -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Tester Direct Current, mid 1900's
This tester was used between 1950 and 1980's. As part of the Occupation, Health and Safety requirements, equipment used to monitor the performance of electricity producing generators, regularly, hand held testers were used to check the insulation and the "earth" pin were up the the required operational levels. As the generators and their ancillary monitoring equipment was spread over a large area and cumbersome to service small hand held devices were required. These had to always be safe for the user to operate. A selected range of high quality meters were recalibrated every two years in the Meter and Calibration Laboratory at Yarraville(near Melbourne) This meter is very significant to The Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme because it was an integral part of maintaining the electricity producing water driven generators of the power stations. The reason why this meter was so essential is that provided the safety check on equipment used to monitor each Hydro Generator that they were complying within the grid network parameters. Grid parameters are set so that if there is an electrical fault on the system, that fault can be attended to with a very small change in the output stability of each generator. It is essential that the voltage of the network remain within the set limits. Generators are at Dartmouth, Mackay, Clover, West Kiewa, Yarrawonga, Cain Curran and three Power Stations in the Thornton area.This hand driven current generator produces 500 volts by winding the handle(on funnel curved side) to keep the voltage constant(one minute per test). The whole body is made from caste aluminium. One of the functions of this meter is to test the isolation resistance of any equipment being tested. This is to see if that equipment is safe to handle(no electrical shocks). The second function is to test the earth pin of any portable electrical equipment. The turn key on one side can direct which function is required(marked insulation or continuity). On the top side(enclosed in a glass fronted marked scale) is a continuity scale(top) and an insulation scale(bottom). This is covered , when not in use by "flip up" lid with manufacturer's details and name of the instrument. Opposite the winder are two screw tight knobs. One marked earth(left side) and one marked line(right side). On the top and next to the glass windowed scales in a post manufacture SEC Vic equipment equipment ID number. For carrying purposes there is chromed steel (fold together) handle.The bottom of the unit has two metal "feet" 150mm long by 114mm wideManufacturer's details on top side "MEG" underneath "INSULATION AND CONTINUITY TESTER" below this "constant 500 VOLT pressure" below this "REGISTERED MEG MEGGER TRADE MARK" below this "REG DESIGN NO. 690326" below this "UNITED KINGDOM PATENT Nos. 193746, 197178, 198182, 202062, 202398, 204649, 350715" below this "SUPPLIED BY THE GENERAL ELECTRIC Co. Ltd OF ENGLAND" below this "MAGNET HOUSE, KINGSWAY LONDON W.C.2" 'sec vic kiewa hydro scheme, alternate energy supplies, alpine feasibility studies temperature, rainfall -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Case leather
This case was used between 1950 and 1980's. As part of the Occupation, Health and Safety requirements, equipment used to monitor the performance of electricity producing generators, regularly, hand held testers were used to check the insulation and the "earth" pin were up the the required operational levels. As the generators and their ancillary monitoring equipment was spread over a large area and cumbersome to service small hand held devices were required. These had to always be safe for the user to operate. A selected range of high quality meters were recalibrated every two years in the Meter and Calibration Laboratory at Yarraville(near Melbourne)This leather case contains a meter which is very significant to The Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme because it was an integral part of maintaining the electricity producing water driven generators of the power stations. The reason why this meter was so essential is that provided the safety check on equipment used to monitor each Hydro Generator that they were complying within the grid network parameters. Grid parameters are set so that if there is an electrical fault on the system, that fault can be attended to with a very small change in the output stability of each generator. It is essential that the voltage of the network remain within the set limits. Generators are at Dartmouth, Mackay, Clover, West Kiewa, Yarrawonga, Cain Curran and three Power Stations in the Thornton area.This carry case is made from leather hide and cloth covered cardboard insert. The front side has a lockable English made suitcase fitting. It has a broken carry strap (leather) travelling from top and through leather strap holders both sides and on the bottom of the case. A State Electricity Commission of Victoria identification tag riveted onto the top lid "ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING SECTION No. 1483"sec vic kiewa hydro scheme, alternate energy supplies, alpine located electricity generators, mobile measuring equipment -
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Book - Phasmatid Insect Plague Control in the Kiewa Hydro-Electric Works Catchment, Victoria, Australia. 1964, by R. L. Newman, B.Sc. (For.), Works Forestry Officer - Kiewa Territory
The Phasmatid Didymuria Violescens have been increasing and causing defoliation in south eastern Australia.The author R.L.Newman is the 'Works Forestry Officer - Kiewa Territory reported for the SECV'Fears have been held for the survival of stands of certain eucalypt species the destruction of which might have affected the stability of the Kiewa catchment. Spraying was carried out by the SECV in 1961 and 1963. This was found to be successful indicating that there will be no need for further spraying in the treated areas at least for some years.'Yellow book with 74 pages. Cover has the SECV emblem at the top centre. Print with black and white pictures / illustrations.In Pen - J. Watson on the cover.phasmatid insect plague, r.l.newman, forestry officer kiewa territory -
Moorabbin Air Museum
Document (Item) - Aero 1673 notes on a visit to southern Germany to interrogate German technical staff on stability and control matters with respect to flight testing, Royal aircraft establishment Farnborough Hants
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Clunes Museum
Book, FENTON CHARLES, TOURELLO 1836 - 1993, 1993
DEDICATED TO THE PEOPLE OF TOURELLO, FROM THE PASTORALISTS OF THE 1850'S AND THE EARLIEST SETTLERS OF THE 1850'S THROUGH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEARS OF HARDSHIP, PROSPERITY, LAUGHTER AND TEARS TO THE PRESENT DAY. THROUGH IT ALL A STABILITY OF PURPOSE WHICH SURELY AUGERS WELL FOR THE FUTURE...CREAM COVER BOOK DEDICATED TO THE PEOPLE OF TOURELLO, FROM THE PASTORALISTS OF THE 1840'S AND THE EARLIEST SETTLERS OF 1850'S 148 PAGES (2 X COPIES)non-fictionDEDICATED TO THE PEOPLE OF TOURELLO, FROM THE PASTORALISTS OF THE 1850'S AND THE EARLIEST SETTLERS OF THE 1850'S THROUGH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEARS OF HARDSHIP, PROSPERITY, LAUGHTER AND TEARS TO THE PRESENT DAY. THROUGH IT ALL A STABILITY OF PURPOSE WHICH SURELY AUGERS WELL FOR THE FUTURE...local history, book, tourello history, charles fenton, cr. reg kinnsersly -
Moorabbin Air Museum
Document (item) - CAC History North American Aviation Diectional Stability Tests P-51D-5-NA
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Moorabbin Air Museum
Document (item) - CAC History P-51D-5-NA Stability and flight tests of mods
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Moorabbin Air Museum
Book - Aircraft design, Aeroplane Design
Fundamental principles of aircraft design, circa 1938non-fictionFundamental principles of aircraft design, circa 1938structure of airplane, mechanics of flight, stability & control, materials & their strength, heat treatment, lugs & bearings -
Great Stupa of Universal Compassion
Ceremonial object - Double dorje
In Tibetan Buddhism a "dorje" (also known as "vajra" in Sanskrit) symbolizes the indestructible nature of reality, spiritual power, and enlightenment, often depicted as a thunderbolt or diamond scepter, representing the ability to cut through illusion and achieve ultimate wisdom; it is a key ritual object in the Vajrayana school of Tibetan Buddhism, signifying the union of compassion and wisdom through its male principle association when used with a bell (female principle). The Double Dorje (Vishvavajra), is a powerful Buddhist symbol. It consists of two crossed vajras (dorjes) and represents the foundation of the physical world. The Double Dorje is often associated with stability and protection, symbolizing the indestructible nature of the universe. This double dorje is a cross of two dorjes, which look like a small scepter with multiple prongs at each end.tibetan buddhism, holy objects, worship devices -
Moorabbin Air Museum
Book - Aeronautical Engineering, Engineering Analysis of Flight Vehicles
Introduction to process of designing atmospheric flight vehicles for engineering students, circa 1974non-fictionIntroduction to process of designing atmospheric flight vehicles for engineering students, circa 1974equations of motions, vehicle aerodynamics, aerodynamic terms, propulsive terms, small perturbation responses, static stability, trim, dynamic performance