In November 1985 a monument was installed near the corner of Main Road and Pitt Street in Eltham, within the gardens at the front of what is now the Eltham Community and Reception Centre. This monument commemorates Victoria's 150th anniversary and the former location of the Eltham Town Centre, which existed along this section of Main Road, then known as Maria Street. Beneath the site is a time capsule to be opened in the year 2035. A plaque was also erected at this site in October 1987 to commemorate the Shire of Eltham Historical Society's 20th anniversary. The main feature of this monument is a ?tyring disc?, a blacksmith?s implement that was found on this site. This consists of a large iron disc that was used as a platform for fitting iron tyres (like the one shown on top of the platform) to wooden spoked cart wheels. The local blacksmith and wheelwright worked together to assemble the wheel, which was clamped to the platform placed close to the fire. The red hot iron hoop, previously forged to the correct size was lifted with tongs by the blacksmith over the outside of the rim, then hammered down amid flames from the scorching timber. The wheelwright drenched the tyre with cold water as soon as it was in position. A clamp placed on the naff (hub) and screwed down tightly kept the spokes at a constant angle as the tyre cooled. An even pressure from the contracting tyre tightened the joints at each end of the spokes and formed a vice-like grip, which would last for the life of the wheel.Four colour photographs (laser printed on paper); two showing the fitting of the time capsule into the monument and two showing Joh Ebeli during the dedication presentation.eltham, joh ebeli, time capsule

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Three colour photographsactivities, murchison gap, murchison valley

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, broadford, hume and hovell, monument

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Two colour photographsactivities, hume and hovell, monument

From The Argus (Melbourne) on January 10 1934 "Damage estimated at £500,000 has been caused by the floods in the Orbost district. No loss of life occurred, largely owing to the heroic efforts of rescue parties. Many families spent Monday night on the roofs of houses or in trees, surrounded by deep, rushing flood waters." This 1934 flood was devastating, destroying a section of the 1922 Orbost bridge - the centre span was washed away -. wrecking fences, bridges and roads, dumping silt and debris on the rich river flats and drowning cattle. This is a pictorial record of the 1934 flood, a significant event in the history of Orbost.A black / white photograph of floodwaters. In the middle of the water can be see debris including a large spoked wheel. In the background are houses and fences.on back - "near Hilyer's garage at foot of hill Main Street Caravan Park on right" on front at bottom left - "1934"orbost-flood-1934 flood-orbost

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Human beings appear to have been making their own ceramics for at least 26,000 years, subjecting clay and silica to intense heat to fuse and form ceramic materials. The earliest found so far were in southern central Europe and were sculpted figures, not dishes. The earliest known pottery was made by mixing animal products with clay and baked in kilns at up to 800°C. While actual pottery fragments have been found up to 19,000 years old, it was not until about ten thousand years later that regular pottery became common. An early people that spread across much of Europe is named after its use of pottery, the Corded Ware culture. These early Indo-European peoples decorated their pottery by wrapping it with rope, while still wet. When the ceramics were fired, the rope burned off but left a decorative pattern of complex grooves on the surface. The invention of the wheel eventually led to the production of smoother, more even pottery using the wheel-forming technique, like the pottery wheel. Early ceramics were porous, absorbing water easily. It became useful for more items with the discovery of glazing techniques, coating pottery with silicon, bone ash, or other materials that could melt and reform into a glassy surface, making a vessel less pervious to water. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CeramicThe discovery and development of ceramics in numerous shapes, form and materials, revolutionised the world.Plain cream ceramic bowl with flat bottom inside. Shiny glaze fades to flat texture towards base. Possibly hand thrown pottery. No backstamp. Bad crazing and staining.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

This private late-nineteenth-century four-wheeled carriage has been built to transport a family or group of passengers with a coachman in the front seat. It can be pulled by one horse, or by two horses if the T-pole is attached. The button fittings along each side of the carriage indicate that a folding roof or hood was once attached. The frame across the front of the carriagewas likely to have been a ‘dashboard’ with a leather or wood covering to prevent water, mud and other particles from splashing onto the passengers. The rear step between the two side-facing bench seats is adjustable to allow for ladies’ long skirts. These rear seats appear to be removable, in which case the carriage could be converted to a wagon to transport goods and equipment. The carriage could have been illuminated by oil or carbide lamps placed into the lamp holders on the sides. The carriage was kept under cover for many years in an open-front sandstone building that also included living quarters and an area that may have been stable. It was at ‘Murweh’ a Warrnambool property at 203 Liebig Street. The home is now Heritage and National Trust Listed and described as a ‘gentleman’s residence’. It was built by James Wotton Shevill in the 1860s. Shevill was a councillor from 1875 to 1878, serving in 1878 as Mayor of the Borough of Warrnambool. Jeremiah Wade lived at Murweh there from 1879-1880. By 1915 F.B. Whitehead and his family were living there, and by 1930 the address was used by Mr T.J. Rome and his family. Thomas James Rome was still using that address in September 1973 after his 100th birthday. It is believed that one of the property’s owners had been an Obstetrician in Warrnambool. The current owner re-told the story that children used to hide in the back section of the carriage and smoke, hidden from the sight of onlookers. He had heard the story from a previous owner.The well-appointed horse-drawn four-wheeled carriage is likely to have first belonged to a local councillor and past Mayor of the town of Warrnambool, J.W. Shervill, whose 1860s city property was the carriage location for many years. The carriage is a rare local example of a town-based lifestyle befitting a prosperous personality of the late 19th century. It adds to the story of Warrnambool's development as a town influenced by the port, wealth gained from shipping and the home place of prominent local people such as the Councillor and later Mayor. The side-facing rear seating is unusual for a passenger carriage. It has the feature of removable rear bench seats, allowing for the dual purpose of a carriage or wagon.Carriage; the Victorian-era horse-drawn four-wheeled open carriage has a coachman’s bench seat across the front and two side-facing bench seats in the rear. There are steps at the front on each side and a centre adjustable step and the back. It has a hinged shaft, two lamp holders and a separate T-pole. The bench seats have padded backrests upholstered in green leather and each has padded armrests at the ends. A rectangular metal frame, likely to have been a dashboard, is mounted across the front of the carriage. It has two inner vertical bars. The carriage's body is painted dark green with crimson highlights on some of the panelling. Decorative oval panels with hand-painted motifs are mounted along the sides. The side panels of the carriage have metal fastener buttons attached. The iron-rimmed wheels have sixteen wooden spokes and copper cuffs on the outside of the hubs, and the rear wheels are higher than the front wheels. Wooden brake blocks are mounted onto the back wheels and are active by a metal lever at the front right side of the carriage. The undercarriage is fitted with leaf springs on each side, mounted from front to back axles. Included are: (1) The separate T-pole that allows two horses to be harnessed to the carriage (2) Leather horse winkers with metal hardware and oval brass plate on the side of each winkerMotif painted on an oval panel [a musical lyre within a blue floral wreath flanked by scrolls] flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, murweh, buggy, cart, carriage, wagon, horse-drawn vehicle, victorian buggy, four-wheeled carriage, coachman’s seat, bench seat, side-facing benches, upholstered seats, victorian decals, heritage vehicle decoration, antique hand painting, hand painted decals, motifs, iron-rimmed wheels, wooden brake blocks, leaf springs, t-pole shaft, rear step, equine carriage, 19th century vehicle, victorian transport, transport, gentleman’s vehicle, james wotton shevill, councillor, mayor, jeremiah wade, f.b. whitehead, thomas james rome, warrnambool obstruction, warrnambool genealogy, warrnambool pioneers, victorian carriage, one horse carriage, two horse carriage, horse drawn carriage

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, broadford, hume and hovell, monument

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, monument, hume and hovell, murchison valley, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell, murchison valley, murchison gap, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell, murchison valley, murchison gap, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell, murchison valley, murchison gap, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell, murchison valley, murchison gap, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell, allandale road, strath creek

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell

[article by Bettina Woodburn in EDHS Newsletter No. 109, July 1996:] ON THE TRAIL OF HUME AND HOVELL - REPORT ON THE AUTUMN EXCURSION - On a green and fresh morning (Sunday 26th May 1996) the Cobb and Co coach (driven by the most obliging Peter Tampion) set off in a north easterly direction from Eltham to connect with Hume and Hovell's route on their 1824 explorations of central Victoria. The Society would follow a series of monuments erected for the 1924 centenary of the expedition from King Parrot Creek (Tuesday 7th December 1824), through Strath Creek, over Sunday Creek (Sunday 12th December 1824) at Broadford, Tullamarine, St Albans, Deer Park, through Werribee, skirting east of the You Yangs to Lara and Avalon Beach. Because their distance-measuring wheel had broken and a one degree mistake was made in calculations, the two leaders of the original group of six convict-companions arrived at Corio Bay, instead of the expected Western Port, discovered earlier by Flinders. From below Mt. Disappointment (Hume and Hovell's difficulties in "scrambling over brush and rock", "leeches in forest, as well as no water", "cutting grass 4-5 ft. high", dreadful scrub", "devil flies") we took an easier route, saw the Strath Creek memorial in ground fog and a wonderful "field of dreams", the Hume-Hovell privately owned cricket ground with its white picket boundary fence. Now, after a steep climb, in sunshine under gums we stretched and viewed magnificent rolling hills and fog-filled valleys - not "smoke from Aborigines' bush fires". After morning tea at Broadford we followed the Sunday Creek valley beside the Hume Freeway, passed the Wallan Wallan Rest Area (more appropriately Hume and Hovell Rest Area) to tum right at Beveridge. In Gellibrand Hill Park, near the headwaters of the Moonee Ponds Creek, we experienced the landscape the first European settlers saw - huge river red gums and rolling pastures. The gardens and sheltered courtyard of the 1840s, timber, brought from .....[?] prefabricated Woodlands Homestead, provided a pleasant lunch stop. We enjoyed a private tour, panoramic views over Melbourne and surroundings and the excitement of arriving and departing aircraft. Our next river crossing was at Werribee, "in a vast treeless plain", then we drove on by-ways no coach had previously travelled, to find "an immense sheet of water" salty Corio Bay, off-course to the west. In late afternoon of a super, calm, late autumn day we headed homewards. Back at Eltham we were rather surprised to find that we had travelled a total of 347 km. Thanks again to Russell Yeoman for his research and organization. What a wonderful day! Colour photographactivities, hume and hovell

This wooden ship's wheel originally had eight spokes but four are no longer in their sockets. One of the spokes has been shaped. Both sides of the wheel have a brass cap over the centre of the hub, covering the wooden hub. The wood is split and cracked, and parts of it have small holes, a sign of being affected by the sea worm. Thick encrustations are on parts of the wheel, showing that it has been on the sea bed for quite some time. The donor is a Warrnambool resident. Years ago he was cray fishing at King Island, which is in Bass Strait, northwest of Tasmania. His craypot got stuck in a reef so a diver helped him by retrieving the craypot for him. While the diver was underwater he also stumbled across the ship's wheel, which he gave to the donor. The Bass Strait is a very narrow route that was difficult and dangerous to navigate in the early 19th century, before good maps, communications and lighthouses were installed. The area, including King Island, is the graveyard of many ships that almost made it to their destination of Melbourne along Australia's treacherous coastline. Around King Island alone, many ships and lives were lost. There is no information about the history of this ship's wheel. Its condition shows that the item has been under the water for a long time. However, there is no evidence that it came from a shipwreck. It could even have been an old ship that could have been scuttled or destroyed as it was no longer useful. The wheel is significant as a sign of shipping around King Island. It is part of the island's history, and of maritime history. It is an example of an item manufactured by hand.Ship's wheel; segment of a wooden ship's wheel. It once had eight spokes but only portions of four spokes remain. The outer centres of the hub and the reinforcing bands around the hub are brass. The wheel is heavily encrusted in parts. It was recovered from an unknown shipwreck in the waters of King Island.great ocean road, warrnambool, shipwreck artefact, artefact, ship's wheel, ship's wheel segment, portion of a ship's wheel, flagstaff hill, maritime museum, maritime village, flagstaff hill divers, marine technology, navigation, steering wheel, eight spoke wheel, king island, craypot, diver

This scale model of a mining plant was made by Donald Douglas Mather of Talbot. The engine shed houses the winches, which raise and lower the cages carrying the workmen. The winches also control the water-Baling tanks, which are lowered into the pump shaft to clean the water. The Pump Shaft is part of the main shaft partitioned off for keeping the water down. The old style plant (or cas commonly known poppet legs), were all of timber construction and, when erected, straddled the main shaft. This scale model allows for steel construction, and is set over the shaft to permit an unobstructed view of the operations. The Bad level is where the workmen enter and leave the shaft. The staging platform on the first level is where the trucks and mullock or other material are wheeled out on rails and then tipped to form the mine dump. The top level is to allow for maintenance of plant. Donald Douglas Mather of Talbot worked in mines in Ballarat, and made the model of the poppet head. The poppet head is a replica of those used at many mines in Ballarat. Back in the 1850s Ballarat was a god rush town and many mining claims were made and poppet heads built this is a replica of those poppet heads which are a part of Ballarat's Heritage and a full size poppet head is erected at Sovereign Hill Theme Park in Ballarat. Mining is a huge part of Ballarat's history.A timber poppet head and engine room model. "This scale model - the modern construction of a mining plant - was made by Mr Donald Douglas Mather* of Bonnie Doon, Talbot, Victoria. The engine shed houses the winches, which raise and lower the cages carrying the workmen. The winches also control the water-baling tanks, which are lowered into the pump shaft to clean the water. The pump shaft is part of the main shaft partitioned off for keeping the water down. The old style plant (or as commonly known poppet legs), were all of timber construction and, when erected, straddled the main shaft. this scale model allows for steel construction, ans is set over the shaft to permit an unobstructed view of the operations. The bad level is where the workmen enter and leave the shaft. The staging platform on the first level is where trucks ad mullock or other material are wheeled out on rails and then tipped to form the mine dump. The top level is to allow for maintenance of plant. * Mr Mater, previously of Ballarat, worked for many years as a miner and plant erector" (Old interpretive panel)mining, mather, mining plant, poppet head, engine house, model, donald douglas mather

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

This set of glossy black and white photographs is a set of images of Glenample Homestead circa late 1960s to early 1970s. They were taken by John Chance and are part of the John Chance Collection. The Colonial Georgian style Glenample Homestead was built from 1866 to 1869 from locally quarried sandstone. In is built on the top of a hill amongst trees. There are paddocks below and around the building. The building is basically a rectangular shape with a recessed room on the right side of the front. The pitched roof is covered in corrugated iron. The veranda, added in 1886, also has a corrugated iron room and is supported by square posts with decorative tops. It shelters three sides of the building. The edge of the veranda is decorated with scalloped shapes along the front and left side of the building. On the right is a brick wall incorporating a chimney. Another chimney on the left is contained within the building. The four-panelled outside doors are visible in some of the photos, as are the 12-paned glass windows, which are framed in contrasting stone. The veranda is trimmed with scalloped metal work on two sides and had some enclosed corners. There appears to be a cubical water tank on the roof line. Out-buildings include a toilet built against the house's brick wall. Another building appears to have two rooms with outside doors, perhaps for workers. There is the remains of a two-wheeled cart under a shelter. GLENAMPLE & the LOCH ARD Glenample Homestead became famous after the disastrous wreck of the sailing ship Loch Ard on June 1, 1878. The owners, Hugh Hamilton Gibson and Peter McArthur, were involved in the rescue and recovery of the only two survivors, as well as overseeing the salvage of items from the shipwreck and the burial of those who lost their lives. Glenample Homestead is on the Great Ocean Road at Princetown. Originally the land was part of Kennan’s Station lease, one of the district’s early settlements, circa 1847. James Murray bought Kerman’s land in 1856-57, combined it with nearby land, and named it Glenample Homestead. The ruins of huts Murray built on the property were still there until recently. Glenample was sold in 1866 to the partnership of Gibson and McArthur, who built a Georgian style house there using local sandstone, completing it by 1869. On 1st June 1878 the Loch Ard was wrecked at what is now called Loch Ard Gorge. Apprentice crewman Tom Pearce and eighteen year old passenger Eva Carmichael were the only survivors. Pearce had brought Eva ashore and sheltered her in a cave, reviving her with whiskey found amongst items washed up from the wreck. He climbed the cliffs and came across two riders from Glenample. No other survivors were found and sadly, Eva’s family members were amongst those who drowned. Hugh and Lavinia Gibson cared for Pearce and Eva at Glenample and extended their hospitality to Eva, who stayed on for about six weeks as she recovered from the ordeal physically and emotionally. Mrs Gibson introduced Eva to Jane Shields and the young ladies became lifelong friends. Years after Eva had returned to England, Jane’s daughter visited her. Eva handed her a blue china tea set to pass onto her mother as a gift. A descendant of Jane’s donated part of the tea set to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village while another descendant donated her inherited share of the tea set to the Warrnambool and District Historical Society. In 1886 Glenample Homestead was updated to include a veranda on three sides. In 1887 Gibson sold his share to partner Peter McArthur. McArthur’s son Ernest inherited the property in 1897. Ernest established the Glenample Cheese Factory in around 1911. It was closed due to the World War and reopened in 1929 by McArthur’s sons, Robert and Colin, when they took control. In 1945 they sold Glenample and several owners followed but it was left unoccupied and became dilapidated. It was during this time that John Chance visited the property and photographed the buildings. In the 1980s the National Parks Service acquired the Glenample Homestead and began a restoration program. Work began in 1989 by Cathedral Stone, which was established in 1989 by James Charlwood, a specialist stonemason and son of maritime author Don Charlwood. This set of photographs are significant as a record of Glenample Homestead as it was from around the late 1860s to the late 1960s. The photographs are also significant as they were taken by John Chance, a diver from the wreck of the Loch Ard in the 1960s-70s. Items that come from several wrecks along Victoria's coast have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. The photographs are significant as a link between Glenample, the vessel Loch Ard, and the only survivors of the Loch Ard. Glenample Homestead is of historical, social and architectural significance to the State of Victoria and is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register (VHR H0392). It is a historical example of early settlement and development of a run in the coastal land of South West Victoria, and it is constructed from locally quarried sandstone but doesn’t take away from its Georgian design. Glenample Homestead is of State significance through its unique connection with the wreck of the ship Loch Ard and the connection to its owners, Hugh and Lavinia Gibson and Peter McArthur, played a historically and socially significant role in the rescue and care of the survivors, the salvage of goods and the burial of those who lost their lives. The shipwreck of the Loch Ard itself is of significance for Victoria and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Register (S417). The set of ten rectangular black and white photographs of the Glenample Homestead, taken in the late 1960s or early 1970s, give san overview of the Glenample property. The views include the front, back and one side of the building, three outbuildings, and the situation of the homestead on the property. The details on the photographs show the materials used and the Colonial Georgian style. The photographs are also a record of the deterioration of the property over the years it was unoccupied.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, kennans station, glenample homestead, georgian homestead, loch ard, princetown, victoria, james murray, hugh hamilton gibson, lavinia gibson, jane shields, eva carmichael, tom pearce, blue china tea set, peter mcarthur, ernest mcarthur, robert mcarthur, colin mcarthur, glenample cheese factory, cathedral stone, don charlwood, james charlwood, antique door key, glenample photographs, john chance, victorian heritage database 392

This horse-drawn, two-wheeled cart with a tank, is known as a Furphy Farm Water Cart that was made in Shepparton, northern Victoria, c. 1942. John Furphy (1842-1920) was born in Moonee Ponds, in 1842 to Irish immigrant parents and subsequently raised in the Yarra Valley before the family moved to Kyneton in central Victoria, where he completed an apprenticeship with the firm Hutcheson and Walker. Murphy began operations of his own at a site on Piper Street in Kyneton in 1864. He relocated for a business opportunity and founded the first blacksmiths and wheelwrights shop in the newly surveyed town of Shepparton in 1873. Furphy invented many farming tools and machines including a patented grain-stripper, and won awards at the 1888-89 Melbourne International Exhibition. His most famous invention is the Furphy Farm Water Cart, designed in the 1880s, at a time when water for most households and farms was carted on wagons in wooden barrels. The Furphy’s water cart is a single item that combines a water metal tank and a cart. The design of the cart was simple yet effective, and became popular very quickly and established itself as a vital piece of farming equipment. The water cart has had a number of words cast into its ends over many years. References to the foundry’s location in Shepparton, as well as advertising of other products also manufactured by J. Furphy & Sons were present on the ends. However, the most significant set of words to feature on the tank, was a poem encouraging continual improvement: ‘Good Better Best, Never Let it Rest, Until your Good is Better, And your Better Best’. During The Great War (1914-1918), the water cart was used by the Australian militarily at a large AIF (Australian Imperial Force) camp in Broadmeadows (Melbourne) where thousands of men were camped for months, before being transported aboard. Furphy Water Carts provided water to the troops, and were usually placed near the camp latrines, which was one of the few places the troops could share gossip and tall tales away from the prying eyes and ears of their officers. The water cart drivers were also notorious sources of information, despite most of their news being hearsay, or totally unreliable. By the time the men of the AIF were in engaged in combat on the Gallipoli Peninsula and the Western Front, the carts used for water supply had no markings and became simply referred to as Furphys. This owed as much to the coining of the term ‘Furphy’, Australian slang for suspect information or rumour. After a number of decades as principally a soldier’s word, 'Furphy' entered the broader Australian vernacular and was used mainly by the political class until recently when the term was taken up by a Australian brewer as a beer brand. This Furphy Water Cart was purchased by Friends of Flagstaff Hill in 2014. The support of local individuals, organisations and businesses enabled its restoration and later its installation alongside the existing late-19th century water pipe stand and 1940s hand pump The Furphy Farm Water Cart is of historical significance as it represents a famous Australian time-saving and energy-saving invention of the 1880s, replacing the labour intensive activity of collecting and dispensing water from barrels and casks on the back of carts. The water cart’s connection with manufacturing companies J. Furphy & Sons and Furphy Foundry are significant for being early Australian businesses that are still in operation today. Furphy carts are of military significance for the role they played during The Great War (1914-1918) in Australian army camps, and theatres of war in Europe and the Middle East, to supply the AIF troops with fresh water. A wooden framed, two-wheeled, horse-drawn cart, fitted with a horizontally mounted, cylindrical metal tank. The tank is made of rolled, sheet steel with a riveted seam, and cast iron ends with cast iron ends. The spoked metal wheels have fitted flat iron tyres and metal hubs. A metal pipe is joined to the outlet. The tank is silver coloured, the ends, wheels and trims are crimson, and the script lettering on tank sides is black. There are inscriptions on the tank, ends, and hubs. The water tank was made in 1942 in Shepparton, Australia, by J. Furphy & Sons and has a capacity of 180 gallons (848 litres). Hub perimeter, embossed “J. FURPHY & SONS” “KEEP THE / BOLTS TIGHT” Hub centre embossed [indecipherable] Tank, each side, painted “J. FURPHY & SONS / Makers / SHEPPARTON” Tank ends, embossed – “FURPHY’S FARM WATER CART” “BORN ABOUT 1880 – STILL ‘GOING STRONG’ 1942” “j. FURPHY & SONS / MAKERS / SHEPPARTON - VIC “ “S - - - - - L MANUFACTURERS” [SPECIAL] “SPIKE ROLLERS” “SINGLE TREES” “PLOUGH WHEELS” “IRON CASTINGS” “LAND GRADERS” “STEEL DELVERS” “CAST IRON PIG” “CHAIN YOKES” “GOOD – BETTER – BEST / NEVER LET IT REST / TILL YOUR GOOD IS BETTER / AND YOUR BETTER – BEST” Image [Stork carrying a baby] above shorthand, transcribed "Produce and populate or perish" Image [Furphy Pig Feeder] beside ‘Cast Iron Pig’ Shorthand, transcribed “"Water is the gift of God but beer and whiskey are concoctions of the Devil, come and have a drink of water"warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, water cart, furphy cart, furphy tank, furphy farm water cart, furphy, john furphy, john furphy & sons, furphy foundry, kyneton, shepparton, mobile water tank, jinker, hutchinson & walker, blacksmith, farm equipment, implement maker, tool maker, horse drawn, stork and baby, good, better, best, barrel, tank, first world war, wwi, eastern front, gallipoli, j furphy & sons