Football as used for Australian rules football, sport and recreationAs manufactured by Holden and FrostBrown leather Australian rules footballleather, football

Used as leg protection during equestrian events As manufactured and sold by Holden and FrostBrown leather leg protector, puttee.brown leather, puttee

Portrait in brown cardboard folding caseJ Ward Symons Hopkins St Footscray

Portrait in Brown Cardboard folding CaseWith Love to Mother & Father from your Son Alf April 1930

Orange, yellow and brown circular badge.Text: ' FOR THOSE WHO CANNOT SEE, JUNE 1921. 'badges, fundraising, vision impaired

Manufactured by Tee-Dee Ties Niddrie Victoria

Bookmark advertising a Civic Charity Dinner Dance at St Kilda Town Hall on 26 June 1981. Net proceeds to be distributed to local organisations.White coloured card printed in browncity of st kilda, civic dinners

Mirage. One of a collection of 25 model aircraft made by Brian Anthony DOWD Mirage is a name given to several types of jet aircraft designed by the French company Dassault Aviation (formerly Avions Marcel Dassault), some of which were produced in different variants. Most were supersonic fighters with delta wings.Green & brown fighter plane on a stand.A3-100model airplanes, mirage.

Booklet with brown & black cardboard cover.booklet, education, higher elementary school, charlton, school

Framed portrait of William Quayle who was President of the Association for Advancement of the Blind in 1905. It is part of a series of paintings commissioned by the VAF Board to commemorate the work of past presidents of the organisation. Mr Quayle sits on a wooden chair, wearing a gray three piece suit, white shirt and black bowtie. A small pink flower sits in his lapel and the chain from a fob watch is tucked into his waistcoat. Mr Quayle was born on the Isle of Mann, and the Manx Society of Victoria made a donation towards this painting, which was unveiled by his granddaughter. Coral Graham lent family portraits for the artist to construct this likeness.1 art original in brown frameThe plaque at the base of the painting reads 'Mr William Quayle / President 1905 / Association for Advancement of the Blind'.william quayle, association for the advancement of the blind

Carried by soldiers to carry extra ammunitionAs manufactured an sol by Holden and Frost 1915Brown leather pouch with brass studsmilitary, ammunition pouch

Possibly WWI historical significance.Brown handkerchief possibly from WWIWoven engraving with AUSTRALIA COMMONWEALTH FORCES and THE RISING SUN BADGE.ww1

Pebble from Anzac Cove beach.- Broken pebble - Quartz? - Brown colourNilgallipoli, anzac cove, wwi

Small stoneware Ginger Beer bottle made by Phibbs Bros. Tallangatta & Albury.Cream and brown glazed stoneware bottlephibbs bros, ginger beer, tallangatta, albury, stoneware bottles

Small brown mottled unglazed tileceramics, earthenware

Light brown glazed rectangular tile.ceramics, earthenware

Item re Frederick Gardner DAVEY DFC No 410533 RAAF. Refer Reg No 3536P for his service details.Brown, cylindrical, shaving soap stick.soap, stick

Lt Col John McCRAE BA MD Born Guelph, Ontario, Canada 1872. Died France OAS 1918.Head & shoulders colour portrait of Lt Col John McCRAE in jacket with Sam Brown strap & colour bar over LH pocket. No head gear. In brown wooden frame with glass front. Brown paper & cardboard backing.passchendaele barracks trust, framed, painting

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. Percy and Myrtle Uebergang's children were twins, Ray and Joyce born in 1926 who lived at Tooram Park until their deaths, Ray in 1986 and Joyce in 1992. Neither Ray nor Joyce married and following the death of her brother Joyce set up the Ray and Joyce Uebergang Foundation which supports the local community. This hot water bottle is part of the collection of items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum. Uebergang catalogue No.F61 Brown stoneware cylindrical hot water bottle with dark brown knob at one end used as a handle; a round hole in dark brown on top used to fill the bottle, stopper missing; slightly flattened base to prevent rolling.Uebergang No. F61 (on base)

Grained brown leather with decorative stitching around edges of shoes. Small matching brown leather bow on instep. Nailed on leather sole and built up heel. Eyelet punch on instep flap to take small brown button.On sole circle stamp "All Leather IHM" 11 on sole towards toe

The Lidwill machine was designed by Mark Lidwill in 1913, for the purpose of mechanical or insufflation anaesthesia. It was manufactured by Elliott Bros. of Sydney.Colour photograph of a Lidwill anaesthetic machine sitting on carpet. A circular metal ether vaporiser sits on a brown wooden base, with brown tubes connecting to a trap bottle and metal valves, and a brown tube connected to the valve is coiled on the floor.anaesthetic equipment, lidwill anaesthetic machine, mark lidwill, ether vaporiser, elliott bros sydney

Photo Herbert Booker FIELD as a Senior Cadet prior to WWI, he had 4 years in Senior Cadets. Herbert enlisted in the AIF on 26.6.1917 age 18 years in the 25th Reinforcements 14th Bn No 7596, embarked for England 21.11.1917, disembark 5.1.1918, attends 4th Div Signal School, embarks for France 29.7.1918 to reinforce 13th Bn, RTA 1.11.1919, discharged from the AIF 14.1.1920. He enlists in the CMF on 3.5.1939 No V1629, appointed Lt 3.12.1937, transfers to the 2nd AIF 10.9.1942 as VX104280, joins the Interim Army 1.7.1947 till 7.6.1948, appointment terminated with the rank of Lt Col. Awarded the "Efficiency Decoration"Frame, brown stained timber with gold inner edge also decorated with copper wire. Timber mount with glass. Photo, black & white of a soldier in uniform, half portrait of H B FIELD. He is in his Cadets uniform. Handwritten in blue ink on brown paper on back of frame: “Mrs J E McCrystal” In Red ink: “Prior to enlisting WWI Senior Cadets 2nd Lt 67B. 1st AIF HB FIELD PTE 7596 13th Aust Inf Btn. 2nd AIF VX104280 HQ 8th Command Quartermaster General (not in notes) On white label: "H B FIELD As a Senior Cadet prior to WWI. No 7596 13th Batt AIF' No VX104280 2nd AIF. Donated by Mrs J E McCrystal"photography-photographs, frame accessories, cadets, 67th

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Donated to Ansett Museum. Formerly worn by Ansett Airlines pilot.Complements the collection of air flight crew attire.Pilot's peaked cap. Brown cotton flat-topped crown. Brown cotton exterior band supported by rigid internal leather band. Interior lining of green acrylic fabric. Leather sweat band. Rigid leather visor covered by brown plastic on top and green plastic on bottom. Brown plastic strap above visor is secured by brown button on left side. Button missing from right side. Missing insignia.No label for manufacturer, designer, or supplier.