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Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Dish
... Domestic object...Dish Domestic object Large oval China dish - light green ...Large oval China dish - light green with red and yellow roses and gold trim.domestic items, crockery -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Plate
... Domestic object...Plate Domestic object White china plate with lilac ...White china plate with lilac and green decoration on border.domestic items, crockery -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
... Domestic object...Bowl Domestic object Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side ...The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - TABLE CLOTH, CIRCA 1920'S
... Domestic object... CLOTH Domestic object WHITE LINEN TABLECLOTH WITH DRAWN THREAD ...WHITE LINEN TABLECLOTH WITH DRAWN THREAD WORKlocal history, handcraft, needlework, trembath, perry -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - OPEN FIRE GRILLER
... Domestic object... GRILLER Domestic object Enamelled iron, with handle, grooved bars ...Enamelled iron, with handle, grooved bars draining to dripping bowl on handle.Marking on back - A. Kenrick & sons 14 In+domestic tool, grill -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - FRYING PAN
... Domestic object... Domestic object Metal frying pan with metal handle and hook COOKING ...Metal frying pan with metal handle and hookcooking aid, pan -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - ARNOTTS BISCUIT TIN
... Domestic object... BISCUIT TIN Domestic object ARNOTTS BISCUIT TIN WITH PAPER LABLES ...ARNOTTS BISCUIT TIN WITH PAPER LABLES COVERING THE TIN "ARNOTTS FAMOUS BISCUITS, NEWCASTLE"ON BOTTOM OF THE TIN IS A WHITE STICKER WITH "ARNOTTS FAMOUS BISCUITS, HOMBUSH SYDNEY NSW AUSTRALIA"biscuits tin, arnotts biscuits -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Dish
... Domestic object...Dish Domestic object White china oval dish with dark brown ...White china oval dish with dark brown pattern possibly of wattledomestic items, crockery -
Tatura Irrigation & Wartime Camps Museum
Domestic object - Tablecloth, Mrs Slender, 1920's - 1930's
... Domestic object...Tablecloth Domestic object Square cotton tablecloth ...Names included on cloth: Colliver, Whelpdale, E. Williams, Ms Lynch, Slender, Dowell, Corrigan, McDonald, Hutchinson, Loveden, Young, Hogan, Maher, Reilly, Fraser and Fahey.Square cotton tablecloth embroidered in blue silk, crocheted around edges. Fancy worked blue birds holding cards with local family names from reserve, south of Tatura,1920's - 1930's.local craftwork, cotton tablecloth, colliver, whelpdale, e williams, lynch, slender, dowell, corrigan, mcdonald, hutchinson, loveden, young, hogan, maher, reilly, fraser, fahey -
Tatura Irrigation & Wartime Camps Museum
Domestic object - Cigarette Lighter
... Domestic object...Cigarette Lighter Domestic object Cigarette Lighter Metal ...Found at Camp 13 POW site post war by Wartime guardMetal cigarette lighter, no stopper in base. No igniter on the top.cigarette lighter, camp 13 -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Can Opener
... Domestic object...Can Opener Domestic object Can opener. Green; wall mounting ...Can opener. Green; wall mounting; with magnetic lid holder.Can-o-matdomestic items, utensils -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Lemon Squeezer
... Domestic object...Lemon Squeezer Domestic object Circular glass lemon ...Circular glass lemon squeezer. Raised centre surrounded by about 20 spikes before a type of moat to catch juice. Has spout - for pouring and small extension to hold the squeezer while pouring.domestic items, appliances -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Rolling Pin
... Domestic object...Rolling Pin Domestic object Glass rolling pin ...Glass rolling pin with ornamental handlesdomestic items, cooking -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Rolling Pin
... Domestic object...Rolling Pin Domestic object Glassling pin with cork at one ...Glassling pin with cork at one end. Paper pictures have been pasted inside rolling pin and it contains a white powder which is probably flour.domestic items, food preparation -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Pie Funnel
... Domestic object...Pie Funnel Domestic object Cream ceramic item used ...Cream ceramic item used in making pies to keep pastry from becoming soggy. The chimney allows steam to escape during cooking.Nutbrowndomestic items, cooking -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Mug
... Domestic object...Mug Domestic object White china mug with handle and willow ...White china mug with handle and willow patterndomestic items, crockery -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Rolling Pin
... Domestic object...Rolling Pin Domestic object Glass rolling with open ends ...Glass rolling with open ends , possibly used with iced water for rolling out pastry.domestic items, food preparation -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Jelly Mould
... Domestic object...Jelly Mould Domestic object cream china jelly mould ...cream china jelly mould with grooves inside bowl to form patterns on jellydomestic items, food preparation -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Plate
... Domestic object...Plate Domestic object Oval white porcelain plate with dark ...Oval white porcelain plate with dark blue edge.domestic items, crockery -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Junket Tablets
... Domestic object...Junket Tablets Domestic object Tube containing junket ...Tube containing junket tabletsdomestic items, food & drink consumption -
Bendigo Military Museum
Domestic object - CUP & SAUCER, 1915
... Domestic object...CUP & SAUCER Domestic object .1) & .2) Glazed white china ....3) Hand written on the card, “CUP and SAUCER (HARRODS 1915)/SISTER MARGARET CUMMING/Q.A.N.S (M.I.D)/ GENERALS DRANK FROM THIS CUP AT AFTERNOON TEA WHEN INSPECTING FIELD HOSITALS IN FRANCE/SUE McCASKER”.1) & .2) Glazed white china cup and saucer decorated with violet and green flowers. The flowers are arranged in a garland near the rim of the cup and saucer, further flowers dotted around on both. Identification marks on the bases in the glaze. .3) cardboard piece with a hand written note..1) On base of cup hand written “052” in the glaze. .2) Red ink stamp with the words “MANUFACTURED for/HARRODSBURG/ LTD BROMPTON Rd./S.W.” Within an oak leaf garland “Reg.No. 479676”cup and saucer, harrods -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Iron
... Domestic object...Iron Domestic object Salter iron no. 6, painted black ...Before the introduction of electricity, irons were heated by combustion, either in a fire or with some internal arrangement. An "electric flatiron" was invented by American Henry Seely White and patented on June 6, 1882. It weighed almost 15 pounds (6.8 kg) and took a long time to heat. The UK Electricity Association is reported to have said that an electric iron with a carbon arc appeared in France in 1880, but this is considered doubtful. Two of the oldest sorts of iron were either containers filled with a burning substance, or solid lumps of metal which could be heated directly. Metal pans filled with hot coals were used for smoothing fabrics in China in the 1st century BC. A later design consisted of an iron box which could be filled with hot coals, which had to be periodically aerated by attaching a bellows. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, there were many irons in use that were heated by fuels such as kerosene, ethanol, whale oil, natural gas, carbide gas (acetylene, as with carbide lamps), or even gasoline. Some houses were equipped with a system of pipes for distributing natural gas or carbide gas to different rooms in order to operate appliances such as irons, in addition to lights. Despite the risk of fire, liquid-fuel irons were sold in U.S. rural areas up through World War II. In Kerala in India, burning coconut shells were used instead of charcoal, as they have a similar heating capacity. This method is still in use as a backup device, since power outages are frequent. Other box irons had heated metal inserts instead of hot coals. From the 17th century, sadirons or sad irons (from Middle English "sad", meaning "solid", used in English through the 1800s[4]) began to be used. They were thick slabs of cast iron, triangular and with a handle, heated in a fire or on a stove. These were also called flat irons. A laundry worker would employ a cluster of solid irons that were heated from a single source: As the iron currently in use cooled down, it could be quickly replaced by a hot one. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothes_ironThis iron is typical of the clothes iron used before electric irons superseded it.Salter iron no. 6, painted black but with rust showing through. Salter iron no. 6.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, iron, clothes, laundry -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Pannikin
... Domestic object...Pannikin Domestic object German grey coloured metal ...German pannikin from World War One collected by Charles Henry HonybunGerman grey coloured metal pannikin with paper tag.E.L.S. WW1honybun charles, first world war, souvenirs -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Cover
... Domestic object...Cover Domestic object Metal oval food cover with decorative ...For most people, a cloche—the dome-shaped covering for a dish that’s removed before serving—is only ever encountered on-screen, likely in the hands of a butler in an English period drama. Not only does the word itself sound haughty (it comes from the French word for bell), it is a fundamentally theatrical object, existing to conceal and reveal food—or on occasion, a severed head. Why, if you’re not an old-timey aristocrat or movie villain, would you have use for a cloche? The answer is bugs. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of eating outside, you’re probably aware that bugs exist, and they often want some of what you’re having. Particularly during the summer and warm weather entices people into alfresco dining, the presence of bugs can be a nuisance for which there’s rarely an elegant solution. Did somebody say elegant? Let’s bring in the cloche. Specifically, let’s talk about a mesh cloche, which is different from the glinting silver semi-sphere discussed earlier. Dome-shaped but made of stiff wire mesh or cloth, this cloche is far from frivolous and is an excellent tool for any outside dining plans. First and foremost, it can keep insects out of your food, saving you from sitting and swatting your hand over the salad to keep flies away. Especially if you’re setting up a large buffet spread of dishes for a family-style meal outdoors, using mesh coverings takes a little bit of the pressure off when it comes to timing: just put the food out there, cloche it, and finish bringing everything else to the table. Also, there’s no harm in keeping them on during the meal, as it’s easy to pick up the lid, serve yourself more food, then plop it back down, in comparison with wrap, foil, or cloth, which can blow away in the wind, fall into the food, or require two hands for proper recovering. https://www.epicurious.com/expert-advice/covering-your-food-with-a-cloche-is-dramatic-and-useful-articleThe cloche or food cover was, and still is, the perfect way to prevent insects and other small vermin from interfering with and compromising the condition of food, both inside and outdoors.Metal oval food cover with decorative pressed tin lid and perforated holes around the side. Metal handle on top. Painted pink on top and green on the side.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, cloche, food, cover -
Federation University Historical Collection
Domestic object - Doily, Edith Alice Watson, Crocheted Doilies by Edith Emma Watson, c1940
... Domestic object...Doily Domestic object Crocheted Doilies by Edith Emma ...Edith Alice Watson attended the Ballarat Technical Art School. Her mother was Edith Emma Watson (Nee Yung) was her mother, and Clara Emma Yung (nee Smith) was her grandmother.Seven hand crocheted doilies either by Clara Emma Yüng nee Smith or her daughter Edith Emma Watson nee Yüng.doily, doiley, crochet, edith alice watson, alice watson, embroidery, edith emma watson, edith emma yung, clara emma yung, clara emma smith -
Federation University Historical Collection
Domestic object - Doily, Linen Doily with Embroidery, and crocheted edging, c1940
... Domestic object...Doily Domestic object Linen Doily with Embroidery ...Alice Watson attended the Ballarat Technical Art School, and taught at Murtoa for most of her life. Hand embroidered doily with hand crocheted edge by Alice Watson.doily, doiley, crochet, edith alice watson, alice watson, embroidery -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - Jar Opener
... Domestic object...Jar Opener Domestic object Steel Holder 20cm, in the shape ...The jar opener belonged to Bette Jones, late mother of the donor and late member of the historical society.Steel Holder 20cm, in the shape of a keyhole, hinged at the top for adjusting shape for different sized bottles. It is ridged on the inside for gripping.domestic items, appliances -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Domestic object - high chair, not known
... Domestic object...high chair Domestic object Wooden painted blue high chair ...Child's high chair. First used 1922 by Edith Mottram (nee Smith).Passed on to Cecil Wilfred Smith (brother of Edith) who migrated to Australia in 1927 and used by children Frederick and Victor. Used by Frederick's children Karen (b 1979) and Robert (b 1959). Used by Karen's children Thomas (b1988) and Emma (b 1991)Wooden painted blue high chair. Also converts to low chair - four wheels on feet for easy movement. First used in 1922. Laminex tray top added in 1959.furniture, domestic-nursery -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Iron on stand
... Domestic object...Iron on stand Domestic object Flat iron has Made in England ...Flat iron has Made in England stamped on handle. Brand Salter. Iron on heart shaped stand with three legs Stand L 5¾" x W 5" x H 1¼" Iron L 6½" x W 4½" x H 5"flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, flat iron, iron -
Ballarat Tramway Museum
Domestic object - Colouring Book, Ballarat Tramway Museum (BTM), Sep. 2011
... Domestic object... Parade Ballarat Ballarat goldfields Colouring Book Domestic ...Set of 22 sheets featuring sheets from the David Frost colour book (See Reg item ) used on the BTM Family Fun Day on 19/9/2011 - have been coloured in or partly coloured in and some with drawings on rear. Photocopied onto A4 sheets by Richard Gilbert/Neil Lardner for the event. Collected on the day.Niltram, trams, btm, 40th anniversary, family fun day, events