Showing 264 items
matching machine lace
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RMIT Design Archives
Textile - Woman's dress, Norma Tullo, Garment Designer, Shirley Lyle, Textile Designer, Woman's Dress
This light woollen evening dress is made from Peppinella, a new fabric Norma Tullo introduced into her range in 1973. The fabric was used exclusively by Tullo, and came from the wool of Peppin Merino (first introduced into Australia in 1858 by the Peppin brothers). According to the papers of the day Tullo’s 1973 winter collection featured ‘St. Trinian’s styles to garments dripping lace, in bold plain colours to floral prints.” Shirley Lyle designed the floral fabric. Norma Tullo (1935-2019) was one of the leading fashion designers of her time, establishing her label in 1956. After establishing a business the Old Metropole Arcade in Melbourne in 1956, with three sewing machines, Tullo's ready to wear fashions for young women became sought after, and her business flourished. In 1966 the Japanese department store chain Isetan Co Ltd began to mass-produce her garments for their stores across Japan. Tullo closed her label in 1977, and later worked for Fletcher Jones. Ann Carew, 2020The dress is historically significant as a dress designed by Norma Tullo, a leading fashion designer of the 1960s and 1970s. During this period the Australian Wool Industry strove to promote wool, and to develop light woollen fabrics to compete with new synthetic fibres such as rayon. The garment is historically significant for the use of a merino wool showcasing its versatility for dress fabrics. Full length woman's dress with full skirt and long sleeves, collared with open neck and pleat work on bodice. Material is predominately red with a repeated pattern featuring posie of blue and mauve flowers.Inscribed, black label on back neck left of zip, 'TULLO/IN/PEPPINELLA/AUSTRALIA MERINO WOOL'; Inscribed, white satin label on back neck right of zip, 'DRY CLEAN ONLY'; Inscribed, white satin label underneath above label, 'SIZE 12/To Fit Bust 34"/To Fit Waistwool, rmit design archives, rmit university, woman's dress, textile design, australian fashion -
National Wool Museum
Book, How to Know Textiles
"How to Know Textiles" - Cassie Paine Small, 1932.textile fibres weaving machine knitting yarn production cotton silk, lace, dyeing, cloth - woollen, cloth - worsted, rayon, textile fibres, weaving, machine knitting, yarn production, cotton, silk -
Stawell Historical Society Inc
Textile - Costume and Accessories, c1900
... Cushion Cover Very Fine Lawn White. Cotton Lace Trim. Silk... Lawn White. Cotton Lace Trim. Silk (Embroidered Machine ...Cushion Cover Very Fine Lawn White. Cotton Lace Trim. Silk (Embroidered Machine) Trefoils. Mrs Trickey Familystawell clothing material -
Brighton Historical Society
Swimsuit, Miss Watersun
Polish-born designer David Waters first began producing swimwear in 1952. His mother Halina had recently opened a stall at Melbourne Queen Victoria Markets and was looking for swimsuits to sell; unable to find any she liked, she asked David to design something. He began making swimming costumes using his mother's sewing machine, in between his shifts working at a knitting factory. He had soon set up a small business in his parents' home, cutting patterns in one room while a machinist sewed them together in the next. His company, which he named Watersun, would become an iconic Australian swimwear label. During the early 1960s, Watersun developed its "Unquestionable Bra", an inbuilt moulded bra which was marketed as giving wearers a more natural bustline than other labels. The company was also known for its matching swimwear and beachwear, producing dresses, kaftans, tops and skirts in identical colours and prints to those used for many of its swimsuits. By 1967, the company was reportedly one of Australia's two biggest swimwear manufacturers, with over one hundred employees. Watersun was sold to Ada Productions in 1984 and was later acquired by Trackerjack Australasia. This swimsuit is believed to be one of a large quantity of samples, seconds and unsold Ada Productions stock donated to Brighton Historical Society in late 1990 by Brian Samuel, who worked at the company between 1979 and 1990.Blue and white gingham one-piece swimsuit. Short overskirt. Two rows of white cutwork lace form a frill along neckline and down either side of back straps, which fasten with buttons. Inbuilt bra with label: "Miss Watersun", size T14.Label in bra, blue with yellow sunburst logo containing the words “Miss Watersun” in red, above the text: “T14”swimwear, watersun, david waters, ada productions, miss watersun, melbourne designers -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Accessory - Tape lace collar, 1890-1910
One of a group of items including lace and crochet collars and pelerines, a jabot, a chid's dress and a wedding dress donated by KHS member, Kathryn (Kate) Gwynne Reeve (nee Marx) that belonged to members of her family. Tape lace is either a hand made (with a bobbin) or a machine woven tape. The tape is folded into the required design and then fixed and embellished with connecting lace or embroidery stitches of various kinds.Tape lace collar. L 17 cm / W 39 cm / Circumference 98 cmaccessories, tape lace, lace collars -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Blue Silk Day Dress, 1860-1863
Joseph Butterworth COOMBS (1842-1901), was an accountant who founded a successful mercantile trading company. At the time of his marriage to Caroline Mary MICHEL in 1869, Coombs had already purchased ten acres of Studley Park. The acreage included land on the west of Fenwick Street that extended along lower Stawell Street to the corner of Yarra Street, all of it connected directly to the Yarra environs. A right of way to Studley Park Road was on the title, though Coombs went on to purchase more land, some of which faced Studley Park Road. In addition to owning the Studley Park acreage, Coombs later acquired 1,201 acres of land abutting the Acheron River. While retaining the Kew property he became a Taggerty Councillor and was Shire President for a time. J.B. Coombs died at Acheron Station in 1901 (aged 59 years). A few months after, tenders were called to repair the Kew dwelling, the Fenwick Street property now appearing in records with the name ‘Hope Mansell’. Caroline Coombs remained at Hope Mansell until she died in 1924, survived by three sons and five daughters. Not long after her death, advertisements appeared for the sale of the Studley Park land. The sale seems to have been a mechanism for distribution of the Estate, as the following year the original ten acre holding was transferred to members of the family. The eldest daughter Mabel married William Younger who, with his brother Alexander, developed Younger and Mackie Courts, both south of Studley Park Road. [Research: Kerry Fairbank]In 1961, the granddaughter of Joseph and Caroline Coombs, Mabel Isola (Younger) Grattan, donated ten 19th century dresses and parasols to the Kew Historical Society. The costumes, now known as the 'Coombs Collection', are the earliest recorded items of clothing to enter the Society's collection. Each of the items in the Coombs Collection, of which this item forms a part, is historically, aesthetically and socially significant. As a collection, the costumes includes outstanding examples of morning wear, day dresses, wedding dresses, and clothing accessories, providing evidence of outstanding dressmaker skills in Victoria during the mid to late Victorian period. One-piece, floor length blue silk day dress with a bell skirt that is slightly longer at the back. The dress is joined, centre-front with hooks and eyes. It is probable that the 19th century cream-coloured lace on the bodice and cuffs is a later addition. The lace extends in a long loop at the font of the skirt. The bodice has a high round neck, later modified to a V-shape. The dress must at one stage have been reconfigured or strengthened at the join of the bodice and skirt, as there is evidence of the use of new machine stitching. The dress is fully lined with a stiffened cotton lining fabric. Apart from minor staining, the dress is in excellent condition. The dress is the earliest complete costume in the collection. Measurements - 145.0 cm (centre back) 25.0 cm (waist, flat)Nilcoombs collection, fashion - 1860s, women's clothing, costumes, daywear -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Mourning Outfit, jacket, Late 19th to early-20th centuries
This Edwardian era mourning outfit was worn by a wealthy woman from the rural area of Willaura, southeast of the Grampians. It was inherited by the donor from his mother, who had purchased it from a clearing sale in the 1960s. The jacket has a peplum or flounce below the waistline, a fashion that was seen in the 1860s and is still around in the 1900s. The outfit represents the female mourning fashion and wardrobe from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Such garments were a necessary inclusion as death occurred often to the young, due to illness, accidents and hard work - it was a regular part of life in rural Victoria. Mourning outfits were a part of a person’s wardrobe and often passed from one generation to the next. This particular outfit appears to have been adjusted at some stage to allow for a wider waistline. The original skirt may have been replaced by the one that is now part of this outfit; the skirt is all machine-sewn, unlike the jacket and petticoat. The fabric of the skirt may be silk or it could be a synthetic fibre such as artificial silk or rayon; both were available in the 1800s,but nylon wasn’t invented until the 1930s. This skirt has sunray pleating, which was advertised on skirts for sale in the 1890s, and 1909, and was part of a fashionable bridal gown train in the 1930s. The mourning of death was part of both family and community life, particularly in rural and remote areas. People were bonded through work, religion, disasters, tragedy and social activities, supporting one another. They came together from near and far on such an occasion, giving each other the care that was needed and showing respect for the member who had passed away.This three-piece silk Edwardian mourning outfit is significant historically for its connection with rural Victoria and the social and religious customs surrounding the death of a family or community member. The high-quality outfit is also significant for representing the financial management of the times, being tailored by a dressmaker for a person of means and then adjusted to fit at least one different-sized person. The black silk tailor-made jacket is one of three pieces of a ladies’ Edwardian mourning outfit. It has long sleeves, a stand-up collar trimmed with appliqued black crochet lace, and pleated sashes on the left and right sides from front to back fastened at the shoulder and waist. The jacket has a peplum or flounce below the waistline. The front of the jacket has brass hooks and fabric eye fastenings. The back of the jacket has two tails. The jacket is lined and the shoulders are padded. It has been machine sewn and finished with hand stitching. A white card is tied with a ribbon inside and has an inscription. The poplin skirt on the jacket has been cut up to the waist at the side seams. There is an attached card with an inscription, handwritten in ballpoint pen.“Jenny” and “Mrs Sheila Handscombe, Wallaura, Jenny”flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, shipwreck coast, edwardian era, tailor-made, dressmaker, mourning outfit, handmade garment, mourning dress, death mourning, sunray pleats, sunburst pleats, western district victoria, mourning jacket -
Orbost & District Historical Society
dress
This dress and petticoat come from the estate of James Cameron who was one of the first Snowy River councillors for the Tambo Shire. He selected land at Lochiel in 1892. From 1902-1920 he was the Assembly member for East Gippsland.A white voile dress with a white cotton petticoat underneath. It is not attached. The dress has a lace frill at the hem. It has lace inserts - two at the bodice and along the three-quarter length sleeves. There are several lace inserts on the skirt. It has been machine embroidered.dress costume cameron-james -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Textile, Dress, promenade, 1880s
There is no information available on this dress which has been in the Historical Society’s collection for many years. It may have been a wedding dress. This is an interesting item as an example of a woman’s dress worn about the 1880s. It is a wonderful display item. This is a claret-coloured dress with a full length skirt with bustle. It is made of good quality heavy satin mounted on organza with a back fastening. There is a rosette in the same fabric with two pendant panels. There is a matching fitted jacket with hooks and eyes to fasten and full length narrow sleeves edged with claret lace (much tattered). The jacket is faded and torn in parts. Machine and handsewn. claret-coloured dress, warrnambool, 1860's ladies dress -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... Churchill Island Churchill Island gippsland Lace Piece Textile ...This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Black Lace Front
... or by embroidery machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection ...This lace front is another example of Pusher lace using matte black silk called grenadine. The head opening has yet to be cut out and the panel itself was most likely made for a specific garment possibly in a contrasting paler colour to show off the leafy pattern The Pusher machine is a variation of Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and was so called for the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. There appears to be an outline on the leaves which would have had to be worked either by hand or by embroidery machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Rectangular section of lace with intricate leaf design and a matte circular section. Designs are reinforced with multiple layers of stitching.Packaged with note: "Black lace "Front" with neckline hole"churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Fichu, attached to band
This piece consists of Battenburg machine braid tacked onto net which has been hand appliquéd with lace motifs. The lace fichu was worn by ladies to enhance the neckline of garments and to preserve modesty. Many lace fichus were shaped in a large square which was folded in half and draped over the shoulders like a shawl. They were often held in place with a small fichu pin or tucked into the neckline of the dress or under the apron or skirt at the waistline. This small jabot-like example may have been tied at the neckline and tucked into the bodice. It could also have been used at the front of a skirt and tied at the waistline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Battenburg machine braid tacked on to net. Hand appliquéd lace motifslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, neckband, garment, battenburg, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Ruffle with neckpiece
The neckpiece is 35.3cm long and 3cm wide and the ruffle is 35.3cm long and 16cm wide edged with delicate machine embroidery. In the mid to late 19th century, daydresses were made with a closed neckline, while evening dresses were usually off the shoulder. This ruffle was made to be attached to the bodice of a daydress to embellish the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery embroidery, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace, neckpiece, garment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection ...This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... Leavers machine Churchill Island has a large lace collection ...This piece has been labelled by the Lacemakers Guild as ‘Imitation Valenciennes’which leads one to assume that it is machine made and created to look like a handmade Valenciennes trim Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front). It was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy and this section is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machineChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Imitation Valenciennes length of white lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fragment
... collection lace churchill island amess fragment machine net ...This piece is a fragment of machine made net which would be used for needle embroidery. The first machine to produce a twisted net that would not unravel when cut was John Heathcoat’s Bobbin net or Twisted net machine invented in 1808. It was a twisted net that so closely resembled the handmade bobbin net that the two could scarcely be told apart. Heathcoat’s bobbinet machine is so ingeniously designed that the ones used today have suffered little alteration. The gauge of the mesh is calculated by the number of bobbins working per square inch of the machine’s width with the coarsest net being 4 point (or 4 bobbins per square inch) and the finest at 16 point.(cf the Leavers machine at 30 point) Assuming the paper clip to be approximately one inch long this fragment would appear to be towards the finest net that Heathcoat’s machine could produce.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine net for base of embroidery.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, fragment, machine, net, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
Whether machine made or handmade, this length of trim is dainty and delicate in the true Valenciennes style. Circles surrounding six-petalled flowers with little spiders above and below where the circles meet, it is quite beautiful. The diamond ground is typically Valenciennes as is the pattern of flowers. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. This trim is also suited to trimming a mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Valenciennes lace with floral motifs with six petals enclosed within a circular motif.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Camisole
This may have been the camisole worn by the same bride as in 0087. It would be worn over her corset and under the bodice of her gown. This fabric must have been bought with a camisole in mind and the machine embroidery in place. It would have been embroidered on a Schiffli machine. It is interesting that the seams are hand stitched which may indicate that it was an item from a trousseau. There are ribbon insertion points along the top and bottom of the garment and although there are satin shoulder straps they could easily be tucked away or removed so that this could be worn under an off the shoulder gown. Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women,.Machine embroidery with small floral motifs Packaged with note: "White cotton camisole hand stitched seams. Probably purchased fabric pre 1900".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, jane, corset, cover, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar, circa 1870
This handmade lace collar includes Honiton-style motifs joined with bobbin-made brides. Honiton lace is characterised by scrollwork and botanical motifs. Initially called 'bone' lace due to the bobbins being made from bone, it was developed in the small village of Honiton in Devon. It was thought to be brought from the Netherlands by Dutch refugees in the mid-16th century after the Dutch revolt. It grew in popularity after Queen Victoria chose this style of lace for her wedding dress and veil for her marriage to Prince Albert in 1840. It was again chosen for the royal christening gown which is still in use today. Brides, or bars, are the narrow connections between lace motifs that do not have a mesh background. They are ornamented in line with each individual lace technique, in this case with tiny picots at irregular intervals along the bar. Handmade items were highly sought after for their imperfections and irregularities as opposed to machine-made items which were repetitive in their perfection.This collar is part of a 94 piece collection of small lace items accumulated by four generations of Amess women, starting with Janet Amess in the 1850s. Hand-made individual bobbin made lace motifs hand sewn together with bobbin made brides. Cream colouredlace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, bobbin lace, lace collar, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece x 2
... These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen... Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made ...These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen by the fine knots in the diamond shaped net ground and the gimp or outline has been given the appearance of being tamboured in a fine chain stitch. These cotton lace pieces have been cut from a larger piece which by shape and size appear to have been intended for a collar. They are machine made and very likely were woven on a Leavers machine with the chain stitch outline being added by a Bonnaz/Cornely machine. The Leavers machine, once coupled with the French Jacquard machine in the late 1830s, made excellent copies of any handmade lace which could be reproduced much more cheaply and much faster than the time consuming handmade laces. The Jacquard machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard and was first demonstrated in 1801. It worked by threading a series of interlaced punched cards through the machine with each row of holes in the cards corresponding to a row in a textile design. The Jacquard loom influenced the future development of computer technology and its attachment to the Leavers net making machine opened the ability to recreate countless varieties of formerly handmade lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made, floral and leaf decorationchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Ithacan Historical Society
Photograph, Embroidered Blouse
The blouse was made in Greece about 1945. The method used to create this fine embroidery was to copy a design from a cross stitch embroidery book guided by fine white tapestry threads tacked onto the yolk; when the design was finished, the embroiderer would pull out each fine white tapestry thread until only the embroidery remained around the yolk of the blouse.Throughout the centuries and up until the 1970s-80s, the women of Ithaca spun, wove, embroidered and knitted. Mothers prepared their daughters' 'glory boxes' trousseau (prikia), weaving bedspreads, rag mats (koureloudes) for everyday use, finer wool rugs for formal use, as well as linen sheets, pillowcases, blankets, towels and tablecloths. Linen was also woven to make the mattress that the young brides would take to their future homes. Mothers also wove and embroidered the fabric for their daughters' underwear and petticoats, nightgowns, etc. Sewing of the garments was also done by hand. The girls embroidered handicrafts using various stitches, they crocheted lace, netted pillows and even linen carpets. The handicrafts were usually embroidered by hand in cross-stitch using linen and cotton fabric. At the time there were merchants who travelled to the villages to sell machine made goods for the trousseaus, but most of the dowries consisted of the beautifully crafted work of the women. In the 30's the SINGER Company came to Ithaca and taught the girls sewing on the machine. A handwoven silk blouse. Colour - ecru. Hand embroidered, hand sewn, very fine white tapestry was tacked round the yolk; a gusset was sewn under each short puff sleeve at the armpit; two-tone hand made silk thread cords were passed through the hollow border of the sleeves and neckline. -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - LACE MAKER
... lace making machine... coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn ...Includes; .1 Lace Maker .2 3 x samples of lace .3.Bill of Sale dated 7 March 1916 payment received with thanks C.H Coombe .4 Price list of Torchon Lace Co.229 Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia .5The Torchon Lace Making Booklet, 12th edition, copyright 1904 .6 Letter (undated) offering The complete lacemaking outfit .7 Document with customer reviews .8 Booklet "The Torchon Lace Maker (illustrated) Copy right 1904 All rights Reserved .9 30 x cardboard lace making patterns No. 20 Torchon Edging, Diamond Point Edging, Net Ground, 2 x Round Point Edging, Edging No. 11, Diamond Antique Edging, Jewel Insertion, Smyrna Edging, Rose Ground, Edging No. 24, Insertion No. 22, No.5 Twisted Hole Ground with "Spider". Spider insertion, Copenhagen Lace, Plain Hole Ground, Ornamental Ground Pin Check, Block Lace, Spider Lace, No. 18 Medici Lace, ZigZag Lace, Wide Antique Lace, Diamond Antique Edging, Block Lace, Jewel Insertion, Edging No. 24, Spider Lace, Zig-Zag Lace, Medici Lace, No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn into the centre of the doyley. .12 Large wooden cotton reel with cream coloured lacemaking thread .1 White sticker, "63" printed in black placed on Lace Maker .12 Eagley imprinted into one end of the reellace making machine, christina mckenzie lawrence -
Kilmore Historical Society
Footwear - Pair Ladies Brown Leather Boots, Pair Leather Boots, UK
Brown grained leather. Decorative stitching and punching over toe with some scuffing of colour. Fine machine stitching on body of shoe. Leather pull up strap on back of foot well. 2 button hooks at top each side of instep. 4 shoe lace eyelets down each side instep with 2 pairs of short brown cotton laces on each instep. Nailed leather sole and built up heel slightly scuffed. Grained leather inner soleSize 5 stamped on sole near toe. Stamped circle with "ALL LEATHER .IHM(in calligraphy font) on mid sole. -
Melbourne Legacy
Souvenir - Souvenir Scarf, Souvenir of Egypt, c.1918
... Square printed cloth (possibly silk) with gold lace outer... (possibly silk) with gold lace outer edge, machine stitched possibly ...A souvenir from Egypt. It contains a central image of the Sphinx, the Great Pyramids and man seated on camel. There are flags and images of military leaders. The date is unknown but assumed to be from the first World War period. Flags around the central image are from countries allied in World War One, clockwise from bottom left: Sultanate of Egypt (red flag used 1914-1918) ; flag of Belgium ; Russian flag and image of Tsar Nicholas II in top left ; a form of the UK flag with King George V ; French flag ; Italian flag ; and the Serbian flag in bottom right. The connection with Legacy is not known. The founders of Legacy were all returned servicemen who returned from overseas service in World War One so would be familiar with similar sentimental souvenirs that were purchased in Egypt and sent home to loved ones.A record of a type of souvenir from Egypt at the end of World War I. Founding Legatees would have been familiar with Egyptian souvenirs from World War 1.Square printed cloth (possibly silk) with gold lace outer edge, machine stitched possibly at a later date. Printed section contains central image of Egyptian Sphinx, pyramids and man seated on camel (facing right) Surrounding main picture is a series of portraits of leaders of various countries with respective national flags either side.Souvenir of Egyptsouvenir, world war one -
Mont De Lancey
Textile - Doiley, Unknown
Used for placing food on or ornaments on furniture.A rectangular ornamental machine made doiley made of white cotton with a cut out pattern for use under cakes or ornaments placed on furniture.table linen, lace, cotton, cotton thread, table accessories, soft furnishings -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Lace bodice, 1900s
The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of women’s, men’s, children’s and infants' clothing from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. While the collection includes some examples of international fashion, most items were handmade or purchased in Melbourne. White cotton machine made net bolero with tambour work and a chemical lace medallion inserted centre backfashion and textiles collection - kew historical society, lace, women's clothing -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Textile - Fragment of Net and Tulle Fabric, 1880s
The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. Length of heavily embroidered tulle with a border detail on three edges and one cut side. The pattern is of flowers and leaves. Machine chain stitch onto net. The floral centres are hand madelace, embroidery, tulle