This cruet set reflects the style of tableware produced in Staffordshire, England, in the early 20th century. Staffordshire became the centre of pottery manufacture in England by 1730, and a century later it was established as an international centre, exporting its products around the world. Staffordshire pottery was widely used in homes and cafes throughout Australia.A cruet set on a silver plated stand. The jug and shaker are ceramic - violets on a cream background.The shaker has a silver-plated topBase of jug- S.F. & G. Stoke on Trent England ; a crown ; Crown Division Shaker - on lid -E.P.N.S. and on the base - S.F. & G. Stoke on Trent England ; a crown ; Crown Divisionporcelain pottery cruet-set fielding

This item was sold as a souvenir of Orbost.This item is an example of an early souvenir item especially produced for Orbost.A very small white china jug which is a souvenir of Orbost. It has a painted blue background with a beach scene (representing Marlo) - a jetty, fishermen on the beach and a boat shed. To the right of the spout is "Orbost" in gold lettering.jug souvenir-orbost tableware

The early settlers of Orbost had to be self sufficient making their own clothes, tableware, bed coverings, furnishings and equipment. Many women were skilled dressmakers and craft workers. This item reflects that time.A small black hand-cranked lockstitch sewing machine. It has a backwards C-shaped body. The wheel and base are decorated with a gold pattern. On the end above the needle assembly is a brass plate The balance wheel has a handle. The pattern on the wheel is a gold border with two gold, red and green stars formed by interwoven triangles. On the cloth plate is stamped "Patent March 1867 Heron Gresham" with some indecipherable marks.sewing-machine needlework

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

A shallow silver dish with scalloped edges. It has handles on each side. The handle is broken and has a bakelite insert.Base - A1 inside a circle EPNS A Phoenix PRODUCTsilverware tableware dish phoenix

A clear patterned glass jam dish with a fitted glass lid. It is circular in shape and has a knob on the lid. The lid is 1863.1 and the dish is 1863.2.glass container tableware jam-dish

A small pink frosted glass candle holder which is vase shaped.glass frosted-glass candle-holder tableware

This item is an example of the self-reliance needed by families during hard times. Many household necessities were made from available materials.A roughly made wooden cutlery tray/container made from a recycled dried fruit box. It has a leather strap handle attached to the divider. ITtis divided into two rectangular compartments. With it are 14 items of cutlery. There are 6 knives, 6 forks and 2 spoons. The spoons and forks are all silver and the knives are stainless steel with bone handles.Forks made of silver Spoonsgreat-depression container cutlery homemade domestic tableware

This cruet set belonged to the Orr family of Addington, family of the donor.This is typical of a table condiment set.This cruet set has a diamond-shaped silver plated tray with four knobs for legs. A hoop-shaped frame is screwed underneath and holds four circular frames for holding condiment bottles. The frame has a truncated triangular top. Four crystal cut bottles with a diamond pattern fit into the framework. Two have crystal cut glass stoppers and two have silver-plated lids. One silver lid is hinged and has a spoon hole and the other has many small holes (for pepper?).allansford, orr family, addington, tableware, dining setting, condiments, eddington

This item is an example of an item of domestic tableware commonly used in the first half of the 20th century.A white porcelain gravy boat with a pouring lip. It has a raised pattern. The handle is ear-shaped.On bottom -Ridgeways ENGLAND Royal Semi-Porcelain Guaranteed

The Maroondah System was first and foremost developed as a functional component of Melbourne's Water Supply System. In addition to functionality, the Melbourne and Metropolitan Board of Works (MMBW) envisioned the Maroondah Reserve to be enjoyed aesthetically and recreationally by the public. This souvenir illustrates the realisation of the Maroondah System as a local recreational and tourist attraction in the early 20th century. The Maroondah Reserve gardens were landscaped with English-style ornamental stonework, exotic trees, flower beds and rose gardens. All features of the water supply system became widely celebrated as beauty spots that continue to be very popular to this day with tourists and locals alike. This souvenir is a product of that flourishing tourist trade. These water supply sites continue to enhance Melbourne’s charm and liveability and are now recognised as places of cultural and historic significance.Manufactured in England, this souvenir dish made from bone china with gold trim, features an illustration of the Maroondah Reservoir in the centre reading, “Maroondah Reservoir, Healesville”. On the back of the dish is the makers mark, Royal Stafford, one of the oldest pottery factories in Staffordshire, England. The Royal Stafford brand was established in 1845 and continues to provide high quality tableware in the present day. This souvenir item has been curated by Melbourne Water as it represents an important historical aspect of the organisation by demonstrating the popularity of its water asset sites as recreational places and tourist attractions, and although these sites are functional parts of the water supply system, they were also designed to be enjoyed by the public both aesthetically and recreationally. Souvenir dish made from bone china with gold trim, featuring an illustration of the Maroondah Reservoir in the centre reading, “Maroondah Reservoir, Healesville”.Makers mark, Royal Stafford.maroondah, healesville, dish, porcelain, melbourne metropolitan board of works, melbourne water, mmbw

Silver coffee pot, presented to Mr R W Pettitt.An electroplated silver, Britannia metal coffee pot in the shape of a rounded, bowl surmounted by a concave section with handle, pourer and hinged lid.J D & S/EPBM/100/MADE IN/ENGLANDpettitt, mr r. w., coffee pot, silver tableware, rituals, domestic life, gifts

This knife is believed to belong to the household of Chiltern writer and historian, W.C. Busse. It displays a level of tarnish indicating it may be comprised of silver or silver plate. The blade contains the mark 'EP' which may indicate silverplate over steel. The blade also contains the maker's mark 'Wingfield', which was the trademark of T. Turner & Co but could also refer to the company Wingfield Rowbotham. Both factories are located in Sheffield, United Kingdom. The trademark is ascribed to goods produced in approximately 1907. The handle of the knife displays the initials 'WB', potentially indicating it was made to order. Wilfred Clarence Busse was born in Chiltern in 1898. He went to school at Wesley College in Melbourne, studied law at the University of Melbourne and became a barrister. Additionally, after spending time on a Victorian station in his early twenties, he wrote two historical novels about bush life. His first novel was 'The Blue Beyond: a Romance of the Early Days in South Eastern Australia', written in 1928 and published in 1930. Busse's second novel was titled 'The Golden Plague: A Romance of the Early Fifties'. The judges of the Henry Lawson Society's T.E. Rofe competition to advance Australian literature unanimously awarded it the Gold Medal in 1931 for the best historical novel of 1930. Newspaper articles about the award mention the writer's meticulous documentary and oral history research regarding life on the Gold Fields in the 1850s. It became a best-seller. Busse also wrote a series of articles about local history for "The Federal Standard" newspaper in Chiltern. He was a member of the Chiltern Athenaeum. He died in 1960.This knife is significant for the detail it conveys of ordinary domestic life in the household of a significant Victorian writer with special reference to Chiltern and the surrounding region. Knife with tarnished patina and cream-coloured handle with owner's initials engraved or stamped.WBw.c. busse, chiltern, gold fields, gold mining, gold rush, north-east victoria, indigo shire, wingfield, t.turner & co, wingfield rowbotham, silver, silverplate, knife, cutlery, silverware, tableware, barrister, wesley college, melbourne, historical fiction, golden plague, blue beyond, henry lawson society, t.e. rofe, 1930s, 1850s

This children's eating utensil is believed to belong to the household of Chiltern writer and historian, W.C. Busse. The level of tarnish and the mark 'EPNS' may indicate it is electroplated. The blade also contains the maker's mark 'APEX', which was used by John Biggin & Co, Sheffield, United Kingdom. Pushers such as these were a common utensil in Victorian and early twentieth-century households. They were used to help children too young to use knives learn to eat politely at the table - the blunt blade was used to push food onto the fork. Pushers could also be used to pull food from a serving platter onto an individual plate. Wilfred Clarence Busse was born in Chiltern in 1898. He went to school at Wesley College in Melbourne, studied law at the University of Melbourne and became a barrister. Additionally, after spending time on a Victorian station in his early twenties, he wrote two historical novels about bush life. His first novel was 'The Blue Beyond: a Romance of the Early Days in South Eastern Australia', written in 1928 and published in 1930. Busse's second novel was titled 'The Golden Plague: A Romance of the Early Fifties'. The judges of the Henry Lawson Society's T.E. Rofe competition to advance Australian literature unanimously awarded it the Gold Medal in 1931 for the best historical novel of 1930. Newspaper articles about the award mention the writer's meticulous documentary and oral history research regarding life on the Gold Fields in the 1850s. It became a best-seller. Busse also wrote a series of articles about local history for "The Federal Standard" newspaper in Chiltern. He was a member of the Chiltern Athenaeum. He died in 1960.This child's eating utensil is significant for the detail it conveys of ordinary domestic life in the household of a significant Victorian writer with special reference to Chiltern and the surrounding region. It may also be significant in understanding the customs and practices of English-speaking nations in the early Twentieth Century. The object is a metal food pusher, a child's eating utensil with a blunt lozenge at right angles to the handle. The metal is tarnished, indicating that it may be silver or silverplated. APEX EPNS AI w.c. busse, wilfred clarence busse, chiltern, indigo shire, north-east victoria, gold fields, gold mining, gold rush, table manners, etiquette, children, childhood, john biggin & co, sheffield, golden plague, blue beyond, historical fiction, 1930s, 1850s, t.e. rofe, henry lawson society, electroplate, tableware, cutlery

Jane Annois had a long involvement with Potters Cottage in Warrandyte, where she taught for many years. Potters Cottage was established in the late 1950s in Warrandyte as an artist co-operative. Founding members included Reg Preston, Phyl Dunn, Gus McLaren, Artur Halpern, Sylvia Halpern and Elsa Ardern. These talented artists had the ingenuity and foresight to create a teaching studio, gallery shop and restaurant to experiment, make, promote and sell predominantly domestic wares of the time. These activities helped financially sustain each member’s individual creative practice. Potters Cottage was influential in the development of contemporary ceramics, building and developing practices that experimented with traditional ceramic processes, raw materials and locally sourced clay. The group mentored and nurtured many interested in the art of ceramics, producing alumni and teachers such as Peter Laycock, John Dermer, Greg Daly and Jane Annois. Jane Annois is a ceramic artist who has lived and worked locally in Warrandyte for many years. She focuses primarily on exploring the art of Japanese raku, adapting the technique to develop the typical characteristics of crackle glazes and lustres, with contrasting areas of black. Jane also applies a fine slip called terrasigillata which gives soft, warm ochre colours. This technique was once used by the Greeks over 2000 years ago to seal and decorate their pots. She is also strongly onfluenced by the French potters, particularly in the style of terre vernissee, a decorative form of terracotta tableware. Three piece stoneware and raku fired ceramic sculpture. The first piece is a hollow, dome shaped object. It is orange (terracotta slip) in colour with a copper metallic band and a black edge on one side with a small yellow glazed rounded triangle and metallic strip of colour on the otherside. The second piece is shaped like a traditional vase. It is orange (terracotta slip) in colour with white crackle on the inside. It has a yellow slip edge with a dark glazed square on one side and on the other side a black thick edge that mirrors the contour of this shape. The third piece is shaped loosley in the form of the letter 'z'. It compliments the second piece with a yellow slip edge and black glazed square to its lower left side and top right as well as on its' other side a black thick edge that mirrors the contour of this shape. This piece has a very small skewed square opening at its' top. All three pieces have elements of crazing and variations of colour and lustre, caused by the raku process. 2006.52.1VA has the artist name/signature 'J. Annois' inscriped small (with fine point ceramic tool?) on the front of the piece, bottom right; 2006.52.2VA has the artist name 'Jane'? inscribed (unlegible - with fine point ceramic tool?) underneath; 2006.52.3VA has the artist name/signature 'Jane Annois' inscriped (with fine point ceramic tool?) inside its hollow form. evolution, raku, stoneware, terrasigillata, terracotta, glazes, slip, terre vernissee

China with Victorian Hospitals Association emblem in green printtableware, victorian, hospitals, association

- Domestic China - Popular in C 1950's - Utility dishCarlton ware ceramic bowl - Waterlily design - light green colourCarlton ware. Made in England "Trademark" Registered, Australian design Registration applied fortableware, ceramics

- Domestic China - Popular in C 1950's - Utility dish- Triangular leaf shaped utility dish - Green colour with brown 'branch' handleCarlton ware Made in England "Trademark" Rgistered, Australian design, Registration Applied For.tableware, ceremics

This moustache cup holds high historical, cultural, and familial significance as a rare surviving example of personal tableware associated with Heinrich Emil Julius (‘Jules’), born 1871, a sociable and well-known travelling salesman for the Schneider china company. More than a decorative piece, the cup reflects Jules’ profession, identity, and daily life as he travelled regional routes by buggy, promoting and selling fine porcelain to households and retailers. The moustache cup also embodies the close-knit relationships within the extended Ziebell family. Jules visited his first cousin Charles Ziebell and Charles’ wife Annie weekly at their Chapel Street smallgoods shop, where he would share lunch and bring items of quality tableware sourced through his work. Much of the couple’s china collection, including this moustache cup, entered the family through Jules, marking it as an object of familial exchange, generosity, and affection. Manufactured by Porzellanfiguren Gräfenthal, with origins in the renowned German firm Unger, Schneider & Co. (established 1859), the cup is also a fine representation of nineteenth-century German porcelain craftsmanship. The continuity of production methods and marks well into the twentieth century further enhances its material interest. Together, its documented provenance, association with prominent Ziebell family members, connection to German porcelain history, and representation of social customs such as moustache-wearing and specialised drinking vessels make this moustache cup a meaningful and culturally valuable item within the Ziebell family collection and the broader narrative of German migration and domestic life in Victoria. Unger, Schneider & Co.

These eggcups were used by the family for breakfast. A vintage silverplated egg cup with decorative three lines of a cut out trim near the rim at the top. It has a plain wide circular footed base with a cutout section to hold a spoon. There is no spoon.objects, domestic objects, functional objects, eggcups, tableware

These eggcups were used by the family for breakfast. A set of four vintage badly crackled white painted wooden egg cups with a dark green stripe around the rim and base of the footed stems. There are two plastic white eggs for decoration.objects, domestic objects, functional objects, eggcups, tableware

The family would have used this cutlery on a daily basis as it is not the 'best' cutlery used for special occasions. Assorted very worn kitchen cutlery for every day use by the family. Most of it has a wide end at the handle with a small scalloped pattern: Forks, one large and one small, seven very rusted knives with bone handles, spoons, two larger serving, six dessert, ten teaspoons, two very small round sugar spoons, one patterned butter knife and two decorative servers.Various makers which are indecipherable. Two knife have 'G R Joseph Rodgers & Sons Cutlers to His Majesty (with a lined star shape and a cross underneath)'. Another knife has 'C J on a flag outline, with C Johnson & Co Sheffield England'. A smaller knife has a 'round symbol shape with a crown on the top - inside is Viner & Hall Sheffield Made Stainless Deluxe' One of the non matching servers has 'Grovesnor Delphic EPNS A1'cutlery, kitchenware, kitchen knives, table spoons, teaspoons, tableware, servers

Wire mesh food covers are primarily used to protect food from insects and pests, especially during outdoor dining or picnics, while also keeping food fresh when dining indoors. A rusted vintage wire mesh domed food cover or cloche with a rounded flat knob or handle at the top. It has a separate wire base with four wire feet which is placed underneath the dome lid to protect the table or surface it is placed upon. Air can surround the food.tableware, food covers, covers

This glass epergne was first owned by John Sanderson's grandmother, who lived in Wandin (Clegg Road) until the 1940s. She first purchased it in 1920 and used it as a vase before passing it on to her daughter Norma Spicer. Epergne's were first created during the early 18th century France as a table centrepiece to display 'exotic' fruits and cakes from France's colonies. They were originally made of silver, however, the late 18th century saw a rise in epergnes made of porcelain due to the growing status of the European porcelain industry. The late 19th century saw another shift as Victorian and Art glass became the name of the day, and most epergne's became increasingly more complex glass works, no longer used for holding food. This epergne is the product of these later glasswork vases, reflecting 1920s interest in uranium glass and clouded geometric patterns. Epergnes like this filtered out of popularity after World War II as large dining sets and table centrepieces became less important to every day life. Those that remained transferred to more useful roles within the household: this one being used as a vase for most of its life. Green tinted glass epergne with white clouded vertical stripes. Glass thick and slightly opaque, possibly uranium glass. Base is a fruit bowl with scalloped/ruffle edges and middle coming up into a triangle. The very edges of the fruit bowl and clouded with white and blue. A golden metal notion attaches to the middle of the fruit bowl with a globe shaped connector. Notion looks like a flat gold flower with six petals and three small leaves, with middle of the flower having a screw on which to screw the largest flute. The flower has three small bucket-shaped containers attached to it in which the smaller flutes are placed. Four flutes attach from the very middle, all bell shaped with very ends flaring out into a scalloped/ruffle edge. One large flute is screwed into the middle of the fruit bowl and stands straight up. Three smaller flutes are placed in around the larger one leaning slightly away from the centre.vases, epergne, 1920, 1920s, 20s, twenties, glass, glassware, uranium glass, radium glass, clouded glass, art deco, decorative objects, tableware, wandin, clegg road

This gravy boat is part of a dinner set used in the 1900's.An aged faded white ceramic gravy boat (no saucer) with two red stripes on the rim and two red lines around the body. It has a rectangular handle with two simple red decorative flowers.dinner sets, dinnerware, tableware, gravy boats

They are part of a vintage three piece condiment set which has a Guernsey coat of arms insignia badge attached to the mustard pot not pictured here. See entry 3531. The salt and pepper shakers and mustard pot were used in the 1900's. It was originally owned by Edward Lloyd Mauger.A pair of vintage small chrome plated salt and pepper shakers with a basket weave outer container and a cobalt blue glass insert to hold either the salt or pepper. They have domed screw top lids and a hole in each silver base. They are part of a three piece condiment set - see entry 3531 for the mustard pot.'Cromplate' on the base of the mustard pot.tableware, salt and pepper shakers, food containers, condiment sets