The Returned Soldiers and Sailors Mills was located near the Barwon river on Pakington Street, Geelong, where its building still stands. The mill was established in October 1922 with capital acquired from War Gratuity Bonds. The mill produced fine grade woollen products with its speciality being ‘Retsol’ travelling rugs. The mill first began to run into financial troubles with the ‘Credit Squeeze’ or the ‘Holt Jolt’ of the early 1960s. This saw import restrictions lifted which triggered the start of a minor recession and a rise in unemployment. Included in these troubles was the RS&S Mill which saw the number of employees gradually decrease and business declining with cheaper imports beginning to grab an expanding part of the market share. The mill was eventually purchased by Godfrey Hirst in 1973 who tried to continue operations without success and in June 1975 textile production at the site ceased. Outside of financial considerations contributing to the closure of Woollen Mills in this period was the declining need for heavier fabrics as in-home heating and insulation improved. This need had been replaced for a demand for ever softer, finer and lighter worsted fabrics for more casual clothing. Modern day textile production requires fewer steps in the processing of materials for this use. This meant large factory complexes such as early woollen mills like the RS&S mills were no longer required. Compared to modern textile production which can spin a fine yarn out of synthetic fibre or imported cotton easily, spinning fine yarn from medium quality wool at a textile factory was cumbersome and no longer financially viable to suit new consumer demands. This rug provides context to this statement. It was gifted to Shirley and Gordon Green as a wedding present in November 1963 by one of Gordon's colleagues in the wool industry. Living in areas such as Neutral Bay, the Hornsby area and later in life retiring to the Central Coast, the blanket was too heavy for use in these weather conditions and hence it stayed in its original box for nearly 60 years. Top and bottom of rug has frilled edges. Pattern is titled the 'Clan Cameron' and is repeated in a 7x7 grid. Front of rug has a red background with 4 vertical and horizontal lines. All is surrounded by a yellow boarder. Label is stitched into the bottom right corner. Reverse of rug also has a repeating 7x7 grid. Blue background with thick green horizontal stripe. Yellow and red boarder to the grid with 4 red vertical and horizontal lines making up the interior. Rug measure 1550 x 2040mm, approximately the same size as a queen size mattress.Wording, Bottom right corner. THE GEELONG R.S&S. WOOLEN MILLS/ PURE/ WOOL/ AUSTRALIA/ The John Monash Rug (cursive)/ The Clan Cameron (cursive)rs&s mills, textile manufacture, rug, clan cameron, sydney greasy wool exchange

Created for and entered in the 2008 ‘Expressions: The Wool Quilt Prize’- “The quilts connect us to our past and to our future, by interpreting Australian themes and telling our stories.”- Judy Hooworth, Quilter and Judge of the Prize. Donated to the National Wool Museum after the conclusion of the exhibition.Eucalyptus dyed woolen blanket base with salvaged fabrics hand sewn to create a patchwork effect. The eucalyptus dye has been used to create different tones of brown and red throughout the design with further dyeing used to create leaf imprints on the fabrics. A running stitch has been used to quilt the wagga, the stitching is imperfect, in places tied on the surface of the wagga.On reverse: INDIA FLINT RED BLANKET WAGGAexpressions: the wool quilt prize, quilt, india flint, wagga

This jacket is by the prolific spinner and weaver Jean Inglis. It has been woven with a warp of commercially brought wool & a weft of hand spun Corriedale. It is completed in a Swedish lace style of weaving. The highlight of the jacket is the blue section of fabric on the top left shoulder of the wearer, which works down to the bottom right hip. This pattern looks like long thin individual separate sections of fabric stitched to the jacket; however, only one section of fabric has been added. A dying technique has been utilised to give the appearance of multiple sections. This Japanese dyeing technique is called Shibori, “to wring, squeeze or press". It is a manual tie-dyeing technique, which produces several different patterns on fabric. The specific pattern on this fabric is known as Kumo Shibori. It utilises bound resistance. This technique involves folding sections of the cloth very finely and evenly. Then the cloth is bound in very close sections. The result is a very specific spider-like design. This design requires very precise technique. Specific to this jacket, the fabric for the dyed section was made with the same fabric as the rest of the jacket. A section of the excess fabric was concertina wrapped around a 100mm pipe and tied up before dying. This gives the consistent straight blue lines, with no bleed from the dye. The sections were then sewed into the jacket with the occasional sequin added for additional decoration and glamour. The jacket won 1st prize at the 1988 Geelong Show. Jean was assisted by the dress maker Ruth Randell with some of the design and sewing. Jean always found sewing “a bit of a bore”. The jacket also has an attached swing tag. It was added to provide information to the judges at the Melbourne Show on how the jacket was created. It comes complete with Jean’s self-proclaimed terrible handwriting. It was donated to the National Wool Museum in 2021.Cream singled breasted jacket with no overlap. The jacket has no column of buttons for fastening, or lapels. It is designed to be plain, to not draw attention. The jacket is highlighted by the Shibori dyed waves on the top left shoulder of the wearer, which works down to the bottom right hip. This blue dyed section of fabric is dotted with the occasional blue sequin. Internally, the jacket features a white silk lining for comfort. The jacket ends in a straight cut hem, including at the cuffs. The jacket has an attached swing tag. The swing tag is cream with a printed thin black boarder. Within the boarder, handwriting in black ink is found. It has a hole punch in the top left corner of the swing tag for attaching to the jacket.hand spun, hand weaving, textile design, textile production, shibori, kumo shibori

Now 100 years old, this quilt belonged to the donor’s grandfather John William Huffstutter. John was Born in 1898 in a log cabin in the Ozark mountains of Missouri, USA. Tragically, John’s mother died when he was four years old. John said that he could always remember her voice calling his name as he hid under the porch in one of the many thunderstorms that frequent the area with his dog. John was raised by his grandmother and was treated as the youngest to her other children, growing up with his aunties and uncles rather than brothers and sisters. John began to study engineering at the State University of Iowa before serving in the US Army Engineer Corps in The Great War. He enlisted when he became eligible and served briefly before the Great War ended. He then returned to his engineering studies in Iowa, and shortly after finishing his studies got his first job with Westinghouse in Pittsburgh at age 23. It was when John was leaving for this job that he was given the quilts as a reminder of home from his grandmother Sarah Jane "Sallie" Tindall Coble, and her daughter (John's Aunt) Ottie Maude Coble Bittick. Widowed at age 78, John took to sleeping in his screen porch under one of these quilts. John remembered one winter in Missouri waking in his log cabin to find snow covering him and his quilt. When he died at age 94, the quilt he used was completely worn out and discarded. This remaining quilt was shipped to Australia, where Carol’s (the donor) immediate family had emigrated in 1970. Opening the box that contained the quilt released a wave of comforting smells, emotions, and a flood of childhood memories. Carol distinctly remembers sleeping under these quilts for afternoon naps at her grandparents' house. The quilt is 74 x 80 inches (1880 x 2030mm), matching the size of a modern-day king bed. It is made of various four-inch (100mm) squares. These squares are made of old men woollen suits in dark colours of browns and greys. The quilt is layered with a wool backing fabric and a batting lawyer of unknown material, possibly cotton or wool. The quilt is tied together with red wool yarn and the backing fabric is folded over the edge to be used as a binding. Embroidered across the front of the quilt in purple wool yarn is "John Huffstutter", "13 Oct 1921". A small, printed cloth label "HUFFSTUTTER" is pinned on the reverse of the quilt. The quilt is well-worn but in good condition considering its age. The care instructions passed down by word of mouth with the quilt were to "never wash, only air".Front embroidered. Purple handstitching: "John Huffstutter / 13 Oct 1921" Reverse. Printed cloth label: "HUFFSTUTTER"ozark, missouri, usa, textile history, quilt heritage

Ghost Blanket IV won the 'Award for Excellence' at Ozquilt Network's biennial juried exhibition Art Quilt Australia for 2021. The quilt presented with the Award for Excellence is acquired into the National Wool Museum's Collection dating back to 2000 with the art quilt "Earth Blanket". Artist statement: In "Ghost Blanket IV", woven checked blankets are deconstructed and reimagined to create an appliquéd work with the feel of lace. It celebrates the natural colours of alpaca fleece and the qualities of felted, woven fabric.Woven black white and grey checked design appliqued onto silk organza.ozquilt, quilt, art quilt, wool

Jane McGrath made this quilt 30 years ago from a tartan fabric sample book (c.1990). It was one of her first quilts. Jane was inspired to quilt by her mother Shirley Critchley. Jane recalls her mother being a very talented quilter, with one example being the “Unpicked Jumper Wagga” which can be found within the National Wool Museum’s Collection (REG 8283). Shirley taught Jane the basics in quilting and assisted her in preparing this quilt. The quilt is backed with material from disused woollen skirts. Jane could not recall what material was used for the internal insulating fabric. Jane donated the Tartan Fabric Sample Quilt to the National Wool Museum in 2021. The quilt had been languishing in her cupboard for many years and had found its way to the op-shop pile, as her children had no desire to inherit her quilts. The top layer of the quilt consists of five distinct rows of tartan samples appliqued together. The rows of tartan samples are broken with a boarder of white, grey, and brown fabric which runs in parallel lines. This fabric is also used to bind the quilt together at the edges. The internal insulating fabric of the quilt is not known. The backing fabric is a grey coloured wool originating from disused skirts. The Tartan samples contain stripes of varying width and colour. The samples have been arranged so that the stripes run diagonal on the quilt. Many different colours have been used. The predominant colours are red and black, with lessening amounts of blue, yellow, white, green, and grey featuring. quilts, tartan fabric samples, upcycle, shirley critchley/jane mcgrath collection

This quilt was created by Ms Shirley Critchley, c.1960. it was made in a wagga style from unpicked knitted jumpers that Shirley would repurpose. Some of these jumpers were from her daughters out growing their garments, while others were from jumpers Shirley would find at opportunity stores. One of Shirley’s daughters, Jane McGrath, followed in her mother’s footsteps and begun quilting with Shirley’s guidance. One of Jane’s first quilts, the “Tartan Fabric Sample Quilt” is located within the National Wool Museum’s collection (REG 8282). Multicoloured wagga style quilt. The quilt’s top layer is made from unpicked knitted woollen jumpers. These jumpers are in a variety of colours including yellow, blue, green, and red. Some blocks are a single colour, while others have been knitted with a different secondary colour such as grey or white to give noise. The quilt has an unknown insulating fabric. It shares its backing fabric with the material used to bind the edges together. This material is a woollen blanket in a tartan pattern of a blue background with green and red lines. The quilt is sized to suit a single bed. quilts, wagga, upcycle, shirley critchley/jane mcgrath collection, woollen jumpers

This coat was produced from wool first shorn in c.1928. In 1928 Mr Mal Groves took over the Dutchman Station near Port Augusta in South Australia. Whilst out riding in some rough country he came across a sheep that had been left by the previous owner of the station. As he carried shears with him, he sheared the sheep and left the fleece rolled up and partially covered by rocks and wood, as he had no bag to carry it back with him. He intended to come back for the fleece, but forgot about it until he came across it some forty years later. It was still in good condition (despite having experienced extreme temperatures and rainfall whilst in the open), so he showed it to Elders who arranged to display it at agricultural shows in Adelaide, Melbourne and Geelong. The Gordon Institute of Technology, Geelong, offered to spin the fleece into a fabric and make a coat for Mrs Groves. The fabric was tailored into a coat by Lindsay and McKenzie of Geelong and presented to Mrs Groves in July 1968 by the South Australian manager of Elder Smith Goldsbrough Mort Ltd. It is not know how the coat came to Elders from the Groves family, but Elders displayed the coat under the heading "The Fleece That Would Not Die" before donating it to the National Wool Museum in 1997. A video giving the history of the coat and a text panel used by Elders were also donated at the same time.Coat, brown wool. Long sleeves, knee length with three circular brown buttons and two external pockets. Lined in brown satin, with a blue and red label at the base of the collar.Wording: Solo;Method: Embroidered;Location: Label at base of collar, inside coat Wording: PURE WOOL;Method: Printed;Location: Label on side seam, inside coatfashion wool - characteristics wool processing textile mills textile mills, lindsay and mckenzie elders limited gordon technical college, royal adelaide show - exhibition (31/08/2001 - 08/09/2001), groves, mr mal groves, mrs, dutchman station, south australia, fashion, wool - characteristics, wool processing, textile mills

A cloth sample book, containing samples of Cumberland "light kid mohair" suiting fabric.textile design, cumberland, cloth - worsted, mohair

A cloth sample book, containing samples of Cumberland "extra light super 100's" suiting fabric.textile design, cumberland, cloth - worsted

Sample swatch book,100% merino extrafine Zegna Baruffa fabric.textile industry weaving, zegna baruffa, cloth - woollen, textile industry, weaving

Sample swatch book,100% merino extrafine Zegna Baruffa fabric.textile industry merino sheep weaving, zegna baruffa, cloth - woollen, textile industry, merino sheep, weaving

Sample of fabric produced by Collins Bros Mill for use in Physician brand blankets, c.1930s.TRADE MARK / PHYSICIAN / REG NO 16997 / SPOTLESS FINISH / FREE FROM FILLING / GUARANTEED PURE VIRGIN WOOLtextile production, collins bros mill pty ltd

Sample of fabric produced by Collins Bros Mill for use in Physician brand blankets, c.1930s.TRADE MARK / PHYSICIAN / REG NO 16997 / SPOTLESS FINISH / FREE FROM FILLING / GUARANTEED PURE VIRGIN WOOL "PHYSICIAN" Regd.textile production, collins bros mill pty ltd

Sample of fabric produced by Collins Bros Mill for use in Physician brand blankets, c.1930s.TRADE MARK / PHYSICIAN / REG NO 16997 / SPOTLESS FINISH / FREE FROM FILLING / GUARANTEED PURE VIRGIN WOOL "PHYSICIAN" Regd.textile production, collins bros mill pty ltd

Accompanied fabric samples donation.Baruffa/ Zegna Baruffa- Lane Bergosesia/ VALLEMOSSO-ITALYtextile industry textile mills, zegna baruffa, textile industry, textile mills

This wagga has been made of regular sized, machine sewn patches of mens suiting fabrics. The fabrics would almost certainly have been sourced from a sample book of fabrics for mens suits, owing to their regular size and the fact that many have the same pattern but vary in colour.Wagga, made from samples of mens suiting in machine sewn patchwork.patchwork, wagga, fabrics, mens suits, pattern, necessity

Weaving sample folder: "RANGE No 6" contains sheet detailing 3 "FANCY WORSTED SCREEN FABRIC" patterns with 1 pink, 1 orange and 1 green cloth samplesWAYNE BUGG RANGE No 6 (ink) FANCY WORSTED SCREEN FABRICweaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving sample folder: "RANGE No VI" contains sheet detailing 3 "Fancy Worsted Fabric" patterns with 1 blue, 1 brown and 1 black speckled cloth sample.K.W. KAM (ink) RANGE No VI (ink) Fancy Worsted Fabric (ink)weaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving sample folder: 3 "RANGE NUMBER 6 FANCY MOCK LENO FABRIC" patterns with 1 green, 1 light brown and 1 blue speckled cloth sample.John Inveronity (ink) Range 6 (ink) RANGE NUMBER 6 FANCY MOCK LENO FABRICweaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving sample folder: 3 "FURNISHING FABRIC" patterns with 1 brown, 1 yellow and 1 blue checked cloth sample.FURNISHING FABRICweaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving sample folder: "RANGE 2 WOOLLEN UPHOLSTERY FABRICS", "C. URQUHART". Booklets contains the following 2 paged inserts: "WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 1" sheet with orange patterned cloth; "WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 2" sheet with brown patterned cloth; "WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 1" sheet with yellow/green patterned cloth.RANGE 2 WOOLLEN UPHOLSTERY FABRICS C. URQUHART WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 1 WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 2 WEAVE REPEAT AND PATTERNING FOR PATTERN 3textile production weaving, textile production, weaving

Weaving sample folder: JOHN YANG (1967) RANGE 2 and contains "LADIES COATING OR FURNISHING FABRICS" pattern sheet and 3 patterned cloth samples (light grey, medium grey, red).JOHN YANG (1967) RANGE 2 (ink) LADIES COATING OR FURNISHING FABRICStextile production weaving, textile production, weaving

Weaving samples folder: 3 "FANCY WOOLLEN COATING FABRIC" patterns with 3 patterned cloth samplesW.H. Clamp (ink) FANCY WOOLLEN COATING FABRICweaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving samples folder: 3 "FANCY WOOLLEN (MENS SUITING RANGE)" patterns with 3 black/grey cloth samples5651 (ink) FANCY WOOLLEN COATING FABRICweaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design

Weaving samples folder: FURNISHING FABRIC RANGE 3" A3 pattern sheet and 3 cloth samples (green, red, orange).F.G. DEAN 1968 (ink) FURNISHING FABRIC RANGE 3weaving textile industry textile design, weaving, textile industry, textile design