The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Calico bag originally containing porridge and sold in Australia during 1930's. Patent is dated 1936.Front top: THREE BEARS PORRIDGE / OATMEAL / picture of three bears / SOMEBODY'S BEEN TASTING MY PORRIDGE AND THEY'VE EATEN IT ALL UP / 7 LBS.NET Back of bag: Cut-out pattern of Brere Rabbit. Directions - cut around outline of design, place both patterns face to face, stitch around the outline leaving open down the side of the trousers for filling; cut notches, turn right side out, then fill with suitable filling. Sew down side of trousers when filled. Copyrights and Patents Applied for. In order to complete this doll it will be necessary to obtain the Back Design from another Bag of "Three Bears" Rolled Oats or Oat-meals. LOOKOUT FOR FURTHER DESIGNS OF NEW DOLL CUT OUTS ON ALL MCKENZIE'S "THREE BEARS" ROLLED OATS AND OATMEAL BAGS.porridge. oatmeal, mckenzies

The Percy Uebergang family lived at Tooram Park, Allansford from 1912 until 1992. Percy and Myrtle Uebergang's children were twins, Ray and Joyce born in 1926 who lived at Tooram Park until their deaths, Ray in 1986 and Joyce in 1992. Neither Ray nor Joyce married and following the death of her brother Joyce set up the Ray and Joyce Uebergang Foundation which supports the local community. This photograph is part of the collection of items given into the care of the Cheese World Museum. Uebergang catalogue No.A220 Four generations of the Faragher family -great grandmother Jane Trigg (seated right), grandmother Sarah Wright (seated left), mother Elsie Faragher (standing at back) and baby Stan Faragher (seated centre front). Elsie Wright is Myrtle Uebergang's sister. There are two copies of the photograph -one a loose mounted copy (pictured), the other was framed. The wooden frame cost 3/9. A duplicate copy in the frame is on display. Black and white photograph of three women and a child. The old lady seated on the right is wearing a long sleeved dress/jacket with beaded bodice and a brooch at the neck. She has a white lace cap and net mittens. The woman on the right is wearing a tailored suit. The jacket has four buttons closure and two buttons on the turned back cuffs. A white blouse with wide pointed collar completes the outfit. The young woman at the back has her hair parted in the centre with plaited buns over the ears. Her frock has a self-fabric sash at the waist, six covered buttons down the front and decorative panels at each shoulder edged with beads. The wide white pointed collar sits on the shoulders. A white insert at the neck has a brooch attached. the child has long hair and wears a one piece outfit with short legs and buttons at the shoulder. His long sleeved shirt has a wide collar. He wears dark socks and button-up shoes.allansford, koroit, four generations, photographs, jane trigg, elsie faragher, stan faragher, sarah wright, myrtle uebergang

Clothing. Woman's grey, cream and black dress, with fine all-over swirling fern leaf design fabric.Eleven gores in skirt, home stitched dress. Long sleeves with a turn-back cuff 5cm wide at the peak, tapering to 2.5 cm wide at the 4 cm long opening, which fastens with one metal press-stud. The cuff is trimmed with decorative rouleau loops and coils, giving a flower petal effect. This effect is repeated on the peaks of the revere collar. A rouleau looped bow trims the centre front neckline. A shaped, peaked band on the front bodice extends from the side seams to give the effect of a belt at the back. This is stitched in place and trimmed with three rouleau coils-centre coil 2 cm in diameter, flanked by two coils 1-2 cm in diameter. Skirt has three stitched down pleats, ranging in length from 7 cm to 8.5 cm long,on either side of front skirt.costume, female, woman's grey.cream and black dress

Yields information about the intersection of Sturt St and Drummond St and its use by trams in the period before the closure of the SEC system. Shows the Southern Cross Hotel.Set of five Black and White photographs of trams near the intersection of Sturt St and Drummond St South, Hospital Corner. All have the Southern Cross Hotel in the background .1 - No. 31 crosses Drummond St, Gardens via Sturt St West, with two Johnnie Walker Roof adverts. .2 - No. 40 turns from Drummond St South en route to Lydiard St North, while another bogie car waits. Both trams have an electric cooking roof advert. .3 - No. 17 crosses Sturt St with two bogie trams in the view - appears to have been taken before .2. Note the passengers getting off the tram on the south side. .4 - No. 21 turning into Drummond St south, with destination of Sebastopol. Tram has an electric cooking roof advert. .5 - No. 33 crosses Sturt St from Sebastopol while another tram waits at the Sturt St stop. Photo by Charles Craig - during 1971. trams, tramways, sturt st, hospital corner, drummond st sth, tram 31, tram 40, tram 17, tram 21, tram 33

Sister Prentice is visiting Mrs. Morgan in her home and is applying a lotion around the outside of Mrs. Morgan's leg ulcer. Following this application Sr. Prentice dressed the wound with the dressing material as ordered by Mrs. Morgan's Doctor. Under her gown, Sister Prentice is wearing the RDNS winter uniform introduced in 1971, which was a grey/blue skivy under a blue/grey herringbone woollen V neck tunic.From its inception in 1885 as Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS), their Trained nurses (Nurses) provided wound care to their patients, who ranged in age from the very young to the elderly. The methods and medication applied to wounds changed as research developed better products. MDNS received Royal patronage in 1966 and as Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), the Education department developed programs, such as the Leg Ulcer Management Program, to provide their trained nurses (Sisters) with methods of best quality care. The Sisters liaised with the patient’s Doctors and Hospitals to provide information on the progress of patient’s wounds and to receive any change of wound care from the Doctors. RDNS introduced Wound Care Specialists who did assessments and provided advice and support to the District Sisters working in the field. On the right of the black and white photograph is Royal District Nursing Service (RDNS), Sister Cheryl Prentice, who has dark shoulder length hair and is wearing a white gown over her RDNS uniform, the sleeves of which are seen. On her left Mrs. Morgan is sitting propped against a pillow at the top of her bed and has her knees slightly bent with legs extended. Sr. Prentice, who is looking at her right hand, is holding a small open bottle in her left hand and has her right arm extended across Mrs. Morgan's legs, with the fingers of her hand touching the skin on the far side of an open ulcer wound on the right leg of Mrs. Morgan. Mrs. Morgan, who has short light coloured hair, is wearing a cardigan over her floral frock, is looking at the procedure. The bedhead has fine turned wooden slats and the bed coverings are a checked rug and chenile bedspread with a floral towel under Mrs. Morgan's legs.. Photographer stamp. Quote No. DN 77 Handwritten informationroyal district nursing service, rdns, rdns wound care, mrs morgan, sister cheryl prentice

Patterned hard cover, black binding on spine.Written across top of first page: South Frederick the Great GM Coy N.L. Inside pages a double spread recording the 'Gold Purchased by Bank; weight advanced upon, amount of advance, weight after melting, mint and bank charges, eq standard weight, value and balance of assay. Dates from August 1934 to December 193k7. Inserted in pages of gold book: a. receipts " Commercial Banking Company of Sydney (Bendigo) recording the particulars of gold melted and assayed on account of South Frederick the Great Co. N.L. and slips from Royal Mint, Melbourne Branch, showing out turn of deposits left for coinage. Weight before and after melting, assay reports of gold and assay report of silver and standard gold oz., total value assessed. b. Letter May 13th, 1935 from Herbert L. Archbold, enclosing cheque for 9/5/- for described weight: 11 tons, 18 cwt, 3 q. bendigo, margaret roberts, south frederick the great gold mining co. n.l., sebastian, mccoll, rankin and stanistreet

BHS CollectionPhoto of Hanro Staff: Black and white photo with three ladies adjusting a dress on the centre lady. The dress has an open collar with two buttons at the front and three darts at the waist either side of the buttons. The long sleeves are gathered at the cuff, the dress is slightly gathered at the waist and supporting a belt. The lady to the left is wearing a two toned blouse with three quarter puff sleeves and turned up cuffs and is buttoned up the front. She is wearing a flared skirt the same material as the trim on the blouse, a dark coloured belt drawn together with cord at the front. At the right the lady is wearing a long sleeved cardigan with three buttons at the bottom. Underneath is a horizontal striped pullover She is wearing a pleated flared skirt with a belt at the waist. The ladies are standing against a wall of wood panelling.. On the back of the photo hand written in pencil is the work *Shirley* and *Copyright 'Bendigo Advertiser' Bendigo Advertiser Photographic Service. For re-order quote CK245* Box 116ABendigo Advertiser Photography Servicephotograph, person, hanro, bendigo advertiser photography service. hanro

Set of three Newspaper clippings abut the W class trams and their withdrawal. .1 - Editorial, the Age 26-4-1992 - titled - "Trams: making the most of the city's assets" - W class are a Melbourne icon, with their future is secure, finances, sale to the US, recommends that they should be saved. .2 - The Age - 18/51992 - titled - titled - "Protesters turn out in support of W class trams in Fitzroy" - written by Jacqui Macdonald, about a protest march in Brunswick St following publication of plans for replacement of W class in Brunswick St. Supported by workers from Preston Depot and the Public Transport Users Association, Patrick O'Connor. Also quotes Ms Angela Ireland Mayor of Fitzroy, Pat Wilson PTC, and Michael Norbury National Trust. .3 - Progress Press - 8/7/1992 - "Save Trams" about the withdrawal of W class trams from Kew Depot since 1985. Quotes Michael Wilmot and David Clark of the National TrustSome have publishing dates in ink on the cutting.trams, tramways, w class, maintenance, national trust, withdrawn trams, stored trams, sale of trams, kew depot, brunswick st, protest, ptua

This notice relates to the prohibition of lighting fires,drying clothes or bringing inflamable material near any of the bridges in the shire. Offenders will be prosecuted. With a date of 1882 and the fact that bridges were mostly made of wood, it would have been of concern that the destruction of bridges was not only of great inconvenience but also of considerable expense. But the reality of bridges providing shelter and warmth in the colder months and the ensuring fires and burnt bridges has more than likely precipitated this notice. J W Crawley was shire engineer from 1876 until 1895 and for 10 of those years he trained his son J W Crawley who succeeded his father and served in the position for 40 years.He in turn was succeeded by his son Rolf Crawley in 1935. In 1963 the bridge over the Hopkins Falls at Wangoom was named the Crawley bridge in honour of service to the Shire of Warrnambool by members of the Crawley family. The Shire of Warrnambool was proclaimed in 1863 and covered an area of over 600 square miles. Much of it was incorporated into the Moyne Shire in the 1990's with some being included into the boundaries of City of Warrnambool. This banner is an interesting piece of history. It shows the issues confronting early settlers such as shelter and the chores of daily life but also the importance placed on infrastructure which was slowly taking place around the district. It was in the era of drainage and roadworks and hence bridges were an important part of that infrastructure. The name J W Crawley is one of importance in the Warrnambool district for his service over many years. Rectangular piece of cloth printed in black ink. The back is plain.Shire of Warrnambool By order of J W Crawley Shire Engineer, 13th November 1882. Thos Smith gas Printing Works Koroit Street Warrnambool.warrnambool, shire of warrnambool, bridges of warrnambool shire, j w crawley, warrnambool shire engineer, crawleys of warrnambool

Newspaper clipping (photocopy/digital only): End for a historic house, Lyndal Reading, Diamond Valley Leader, February 1, 2006, p9Alistair Knox Park, Eltham, Eltham Skate Park A small cream cottage with green roof. The farmhouse built in the late 1800s by the Crozier Family. Subsequently owned by the Hill Family. Purchased in the early 1960s and by 1965 the property was owned by the Shire of Eltham. Employees of the Shire lived in the house. Susan Street originally ran all the way north of Bridge Street to the bend where it turned to the left into Brisbane Street. Today that section of Susan Street has been renamed as an extension of Brisbane Street. In 2006 the Shire of Nillumbik demolished the house which had been subject to extensive vandalism. In accordance with heritage advice and a permit condition a sign was placed on the site outlining the history of the building. This was installed and remained in place till about 2016 when it was removed. The land adjoins Alistair Knox Park. By 2010 the Eltham Skate Park was developed. In 2022 a major renovation and extension took place. Sources: EDHS Newsletter No 171 November 2006alistair knox park, eltham, eltham skate park, house, susan street

Maize has been grown on the Orbost flats for at least 70 years. When early settlers began to arrive on the Snowy River somewhere in the 1880s, the land was mostly swamps and heavily timbered jungle on the river frontages. The swamps were drained, bit by bit, with short handled shovels working in mud and water. The frontages were cleared by axe and shovel and fire. Several kinds of crops were experimented with such as hops, hemp and maize which grew particularly well and became the main crop of district. The problem then was to thresh and deliver the product to the market. A small single cob machine was brought here and one man turned the handle, while the boy or Mum fed the cobs singly into the machine. A good day’s work would thresh about 50 bushels or about 12 bags (4 bushels). The task then was to cart the maize to market. For a few years this was done by horses and dray carrying about 60 bushels to Mossiface, where it was loaded onto river boats to Lakes Entrance, and then by ocean boats to Melbourne. (information from NEWSLETTER OCTOBER, 2006)The growing of maize in the Orbost district contributed significantly to the economy of the township for many years, The many maize cribs once seen on the surrounding farms have now disappeared and this photograph is a pictorial record of that significance.A small sepia photograph with six men in front of a wooden barn. They are bagging maize. In the foreground are two rows of filled bags. On the right is a lifting machine to take the bags to the top storey. On the far right is a water tank on a stand"on back - "Thrashing Maize"maize-orbost agriculture-maize industry

A separator is a centrifugal device that separates milk into cream and skimmed milk. Separation was commonly performed on farms in the past where farmers milked a few cows, usually by hand, and separated by letting milk sit in a container until the cream floated to the top when it could be skimmed off by hand. Some of the skimmed milk was consumed while the rest was used to feed calves and pigs. Enough cream was saved to make butter, and the excess was sold. Manual rotation of the separator handle turns a mechanism which causes the separator bowl to spin at thousands of revolutions per minute. When spun, the heavier milk is pulled outward against the walls of the separator and the cream, which is lighter, collects in the middle. The cream and milk then flow out of separate spouts. Montgomery Ward was founded by Aaron Montgomery Ward in 1872.as a mail-order business in Chicago, Illinois USA. Rural customers were attracted by the wide selection of items that were unavailable to them locally and were also inspired by the innovative company policy of "satisfaction guaranteed or your money back".This milk separator is typical of the type used by early settlers in Moorabbin Shire where every family owned a 'house cow' to supply their dairy needs. Households also kept a few chickens for eggs and developed a vegetable garden with additional fruit trees. A 'primrose' manual milk separator 'Montgomery Ward', Chicago USA c1900'primrose ' / SATTLEY / MONTGOMERY WARD/ CHICAGOearly settlers, dairy farmers, milk products, dairies, market gardeners, blacksmiths, tools, moorabbin shire, bentleigh, mckinnon, highett, cheltenham, moorabbin

Ill, p.320.non-fictioniraq war - personal narratives, iraq war - battle of fallujah

Concert program of entertainment as aprt of fundraising for the Jacka Appeal, held on 17 February 1932 at St Kilda Town Hall. The headline performer was Gladys Moncreiff, 'Australia's Queen of Song'. Albert Jacka, a St Kilda Councillor, collapsed on 14 December 1931 after a council meeting and was admitted to Caulfield Military Hospital. He died on 17 January 1932 at the age of 39. He is most well-known for his military service in WWI, having received the Victoria Cross medal for his actions during the Gallipoli campaign and two more decorations for his bravery on the Western Front. He received a hero's welcome on his return to Melbourne in January 1920 and an estimated 50,000 people turned up to watch his funeral procession to St Kilda Cemetery, where he was buried with full military honours. The Albert Jacka Fund had two objectives: the erection of a simple, suitable and inexpensive memorial stone over the grave of the dead hero; the placing of the residue of the fund in the hands of trustees for the benefit of his widow and child.Folded cream card with scalloped edges and printed in purplealbert jacka, jacka appeal, gladys moncreiff

The signage that detailed the events surrounding the Eureka Stockade diaroma was affixed to the hut wall beside the entrance to the interior diorama. In the first photograph, you can see the dark, bare timber colour of the slab wood that held the signage plus (on the left side) one of the numerous holes in the slab walls. This made the display very cold and draughty in its interior. Once inside, you were confronted with an earthen, gravel and leafy floor, which became muddy, after rain, as it was on the day this photograph was taken. The diorama was held in a glass and cement display case. with no lights on. It was dark inside the hut so the diorama was not easy to see unless you inserted a coin into a metal pay-box. Then lights would turn on and a recording of shouting and gunfire (representing the battle noise) would play. The Photographer remembers the whole experience to be short and underwhelming. Once outside the diorama’s slab hut, you could walk across to a partial representation of the stockade’s fortifications, complete with two wagon wheels. This space was also graveled to distinguish it from the rest of the green-lawn park. digital photographeureka stockade, diorama, jack ford, brenda ford, eureka stockade memorial

The signage that detailed the events surrounding the Eureka Stockade diaroma was affixed to the hut wall beside the entrance to the interior diorama. In the first photograph, you can see the dark, bare timber colour of the slab wood that held the signage plus (on the left side) one of the numerous holes in the slab walls. This made the display very cold and draughty in its interior. Once inside, you were confronted with an earthen, gravel and leafy floor, which became muddy, after rain, as it was on the day this photograph was taken. The diorama was held in a glass and cement display case. with no lights on. It was dark inside the hut so the diorama was not easy to see unless you inserted a coin into a metal pay-box. Then lights would turn on and a recording of shouting and gunfire (representing the battle noise) would play. The Photographer remembers the whole experience to be short and underwhelming. Once outside the diorama’s slab hut, you could walk across to a partial representation of the stockade’s fortifications, complete with two wagon wheels. This space was also graveled to distinguish it from the rest of the green-lawn park.digital photographeureka, diorama, 1993, jack ford, brenda ford, eureka monument, memorial

James Albon, far right, built a bowling green at his home on the corner of Mont Albert Road and Wilson Street (later occupied by the convent). This green was so popular with his friends that he organised the formation of a bowling club at the corner of Montrose and Wilson Streets. Mr John Kendrick Blogg, wearing the white hat, is standing in the doorway. Earliest club records date from 1916. This was the original club-house; it was rebuilt in 1922/23 using interlocking blocks as recommended by Walter Burley-Griffin. This was quite an innovative design at the time. In turn cream brick buildings replaced this building in the 1950s. The Surrey Hills Bowls Club disbanded in 1995. Our original is framed copy donated by the Surrey Hills Bowls Club (with a spare copy and negative). Someone from the club has the original. Thre is also a frames portrait of James Albon the 1st president in the collection. (NB/ Duplicate = 1813; No.1943 is from the Bowling Club). Some information from Mrs Merle Phillips (deceased) a member when the club closed.A black and white photograph of a group of men and women dressed in their finery. The ladies and men are wearing hats and most men in 3 piece suits. One lady is in position to roll a bowl. The women's dresses are all ankle length."SHBC 1912"mont albert road, wilson street, surrey hills, montrose street, surrey hills bowling club, 1912, clothing and dress, mr james albon, mr john kendrick blogg

A 'Brunsviga' adding Machine used to educate people who were blind or vision impaired in arithmetic during in the early 1900s. The firm Grimme, Natalis & Co (GNC) was established in 1871 to build sewing machines and domestic appliances at Braunschweig (Brunswick) in Germany. In 1892 engineer Franz Trinks was instrumental in securing the manufacturing rights to the Odhner calculator patents. The first machines were built according to W.T. Odhner's 1890 design, and were distributed under the brand name "Brunsviga". Trinks continued to develop and refine the Brunsviga calculator over a period of almost 30 years. The brass rotor disks are 71mm in diameter, with the nine setting levers spaced on 9mm centres. The moving carriage has 10 places in the counter register and 18 in the accumulator, but the tens-carry mechanism only covers 10 of the 18 places. The carriage is positioned manually by releasing a latch and moving the assembly by hand to the required position. The registers are cleared by a full turn of the large wing nuts on either end. The mechanism is very basic, with no safety interlocks and no added features.Metal machine on wooden base.Brunsviga Patent Braunschweigoffice equipment and supplies, royal victorian institute for the blind

The barrel was used in the Wodonga Court House as part of the selection process for jurors. It was a standard issue barrel used throughout Victoria. It was retrieved from the ruins of the court house which was destroyed by fire. It was then donated to the Wodonga Historical Society. The timber display stand was made and donated by Jake Tooley, a Wodonga Historical Society member, The Court House was situated in the Customs Store building alongside the Wodonga Police Station in 93 High Street. (The house where the Police Station was had originally been the home of the Customs Officer). In early 1964, the court house building was burnt beyond repair and furniture and other property destroyed. The cause of the fire was never found. The Police Station was lucky to survive but only because of the efforts of the local Fire Brigade. After the fire, the court was held first at the old Fire Station premises near where the Wodonga Post Office is near Woodland Grove, then it moved to a vacant building in Mitchell Street which was later turned into a Child Care Centre. Foundations for the new court house in Elgin Street were laid in October 1965 Local significance due to its use in the Wodonga Court House and its survival of a major fire. State significance as it documents a procedure used in the Victorian Court and Legal system Cylindrical metal-iron barrel painted black with writing stenciled on the front in white The timber mount was made for storage and display is not part of the original object,Inscription on Barrel "WODONGA./ Jurors in use./ Special"wodonga court, jurors, selection, legal system, fire

Johnson Bros. was founded by two brothers named Alfred and Frederick who purchased a pottery factory in Hanley, England, in 1883. They were grandsons of a renowned English potter, Alfred Meakin. They were later joined in the business by their brothers Henry and Robert. Their business grew rapidly, as they were one of the world's largest pottery factories by the turn of the 20th century. By 1970, Johnson Bros. obtained the Royal Charter to become the official provider of china for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. More than 1,300 patterns have been created throughout Johnson Brothers' history. Due to their growing success, manufacturing plants were established overseas including the establishment of a tableware factory, Johnson Brothers Australia in 1957 in Croydon, Victoria operated through a company known as Sovereign Pottery Ltd. Due to rising competition, Johnson Brothers became part of the Wedgewood Group in 1968. In 2015, following the acquisition of Wedgewood by Finnish company Fiskars, the Johnson Brothers branding was discontinued. The trademark on this bowl was used by Johnson Brothers between 1913 and 1942. An item which reflects the changing market for tableware that was reasonably priced and serviceable. Their innovation of the pottery line called semi-porcelain changed the industry. This development allowed potteries to produce fashionable pottery items that were affordable to all social classes of the time. Their use became widespread in Australia, especially following their establishment of a tableware factory in Melbourne, Victoria. A shallow white bowl with gold trim, probably used for serving vegetables at the table. The underside of the bowl bears the mark of Johnson Bros England. The mark is composed of a green crown above the words "Johnson Bros England" also in green.On under side of bowl, beneath a green crown "Johnson Bros/England"johnson brothers ceramics, domestic utensils, kitchenware

A press release from Melbourne Legacy in 1975 which relates the story of a junior legatee becoming a lawyer. The information was intended to be used by press and magazines etc. The junior legatee had been a double orphan with his father dying in 1965 and his mother some years earlier. He came from the country to Melbourne for educational purposes and contacted Legacy. Although at 19 he was older than most children Legacy help he turned to them as the next best thing as parents. He had an ambition to be a lawyer but lack the means and backing to go to University. Legacy assigned a Legatee to look after him. They two established a strong 'father and son' relationship. Legacy further agreed to pay his tuition fees at University in 1968 and assist with a living allowance. His results were so good he earned a government Scholarship in 1969, and Legacy provided books and living costs. The faith in the boy's determination paid off and he completed his final examinations with outstanding results and first class honour.A record of how Legacy promoted their work in the 1970s.Pink foolscap page x 2 with black type of a press release in 1975.Title 'How indebted I am to Legacy fo rate financial and moral aid I have received.'press release, promotion, case studies

This dress is of uncertain provenance. BHS records indicate that it was owned by Marion Jane Ellen Devlin, nee Stokes (1845-1936), who married Oliver Devlin on 2 April 1877 in Victoria. The dress is believed to have been worn on the Bendigo goldfields circa 1878. It may have been worn as a wedding dress. However, additional documentation discovered in August 2019 suggest that the dress belonged to Margaret Cocking, nee Carr (1850-1936), who married Gustavus Cocking in Bendigo in 1877.A grey-green circa 1878 dress comprising a matching jacket and skirt. The jacket (.1) features a standing collar that gathers to a low point at the throat. This point is concealed behind a bow with raw edges which may not be original. The centre front of the jacket has been secured with nineteen concealed metal hook and button holes. The centre front features fifteen sets of single fabric covered glass buttons secured in a diagonal pattern and appearing as double headed buttons. From the shoulder through the body the jacket is shaped with decorative panels with grey silk detail. Beside these panels shaping into the waist and under the arm are a further two pleats. On the left side waist is a small pocket with decorative flap, grey silk trim and button. The base line of the jacket features a decorative horizontal panel that wraps around the jacket. The sleeve head is small and sits on the natural shoulder line with a slim fitting, curved, full length sleeve. At the base of the sleeve, there is a decorative panel reminiscent of a formal cuff, with a decorative turn back and two buttons. Secured underneath this turn back is a bow like decoration. From the back the jacket features a V shaped decoration, an extension of the front two decorative panels. From the shoulders the jacket is shaped by four panels curving tight into the waist and flaring out again to fullness of the bustle. These seams are also finished with decorative binding. This peplum-like shape features two decorative flaps and six covered buttons. The skirt (.2) is shaped to the waist with pleats and secures on the front left hand side, the original waistband and fastenings have been replaced. The skirt front features a large decorative panel of the same fabric that curves from the front at approximately shin length, upwards towards the back securing underneath the bustle decoration. A second panel, plus a pleated panel finish the hem of the skirt continuing around to the back. At the back the skirt features two deep pleats with a large decorative bow that would sit out over the bustle. The skirt is long featuring a small train at the back. The dress is lined in a brown waxed cotton.wedding dress, 1870s fashion, marion jane ellen stokes, oliver devlin, margaret carr, gustavus cocking, bendigo

This specimen is part of a collection of almost 200 animal specimens that were originally acquired as skins from various institutions across Australia, including the Australian Museum in Sydney and the National Museum of Victoria (known as Museums Victoria since 1983), as well as individuals such as amateur anthropologist Reynell Eveleigh Johns between 1860-1880. These skins were then mounted by members of the Burke Museum Committee and put-on display in the formal space of the Museum’s original exhibition hall where they continue to be on display. This display of taxidermy mounts initially served to instruct visitors to the Burke Museum of the natural world around them, today it serves as an insight into the collecting habits of the 19th century. The red-and green Australian King-Parrot is seldom seen flying above the tree tops of the dense forests which it inhabits — it prefers to fly below tree level, weaving in and out through the tree trunks instead. When they are disturbed by a person, they usually fly off with a harsh screech, and often do not land until they are lost to view. Their flight is swift and strong, characterised by deep, rhythmic wing-beats and regularly punctuated with rapid twists and turns.This specimen is part of a significant and rare taxidermy mount collection in the Burke Museum. This collection is scientifically and culturally important for reminding us of how science continues to shape our understanding of the modern world. They demonstrate a capacity to hold evidence of how Australia’s fauna history existed in the past and are potentially important for future environmental research. This collection continues to be on display in the Museum and has become a key part to interpreting the collecting habits of the 19th century. Male Australian King-Parrots are the only Australian parrots with a completely red head. Females are similar to males except that they have a completely green head and breast. Both sexes have a red belly and a green back, with green wings and a long green tail. King parrots are normally encountered in pairs or family groups. This particular specimen has duller colour and appears more orange with a misshapen head Label: National Museum Victoria / King Parrot / Aprosmietus W5435 / Gris (recht) Mount: APPOSMICTUS / SCAPULARIS / King Parrottaxidermy, parrot, bird, king parrot

Maize,has been grown on the Orbost flats for at least 70 years. When early settlers began to arrive on the Snowy River somewhere in the 1880s, the land was mostly swamps and heavily timbered jungle on the river frontages. The swamps were drained, bit by bit, by men with short handled shovels and working in mud and water. The frontages were cleared by axe and shovel and fire. Several kinds of crops were experimented with such as hops, hemp and maize, the latter grew particularly well and became the main crop of district. The problem then was to thresh and deliver the product to the market. A small single cob machine was brought here and one man turned the handle, while the boy or Mum fed the cobs singly into the machine. A good day’s work would thresh about 50 bushels or about 12 bags (4 bushels). The task then was to cart the maize to market. For a few years this was done by horses and dray carrying about 60 bushels to Mossiface, where it was loaded onto river boats to Lakes Entrance, and then by ocean boats to Melbourne. Later it was taken to Bairnsdale by foot and loaded onto the trains to Melbourne. (more information in Newsletter October 2006)The growing of maize in the Orbost district contributed significantly to the economy of the township for many years, The many maize cribs once seen on the surrounding farms have now disappeared and this photograph is a pictorial record of that significance.A black / white photograph of a man unloading maize from a horse-drawn wagon into a maize crib. Another man is standing by the horse.maize-crib-orbost agriculture maize-corn-orbost

Maize, or corn as it is called in America and New South Wales, has been grown on the Orbost flats for at least 70 years. When early settlers began to arrive on the Snowy River somewhere in the 1880s, the land was mostly swamps and heavily timbered jungle on the river frontages. The swamps were drained, bit by bit, by stout hearted men with short handled shovels and working in mud and water. The frontages were cleared by axe and shovel and fire. Several kinds of crops were experimented with such as hops, hemp and maize, the latter grew particularly well and became the main crop of district. The problem then was to thresh and deliver the product to the market. A small single cob machine was brought here and one man turned the handle, while the boy or Mum fed the cobs singly into the machine. A good day’s work would thresh about 50 bushels or about 12 bags (4 bushels). The task then was to cart the maize to market. For a few years this was done by horses and dray carrying about 60 bushels to Mossiface, where it was loaded onto river boats to Lakes Entrance, and then by ocean boats to Melbourne. ( from NEWSLETTER OCTOBER, 2006) This is a pictorial record of farming practices in Orbost in the early 20th century.A black / white photograph of a horse team hauling a wagon loaded with bags of maize.A man is sitting on the edge of the wagon.farming-orbost agriculture maize corn transport