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matching bobbins lace
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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This is an interesting insertion piece with machine made copies of bobbin made ‘spiders’ which could be highlighted by ribbon insertion. The eyelets are placed so that the inserted ribbon covers the plain areas and is highlighting the decorative spiders and the fagoted edging would be revealed. This would be another lovely embellishment for baby’s clothes and accessories such as cradle trim, pillows and pram coverings. It would also be highly suitable for the clothing, undergarments and bed linen of children.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered section of lace trim with recurrent geometric motifsjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This piece is a beautifully preserved machine made copy of Valenciennes style lace as can be seen from the diamond shaped ground. This would have been made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of the hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with diamond groundjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fragment
This piece is a fragment of machine made net which would be used for needle embroidery. The first machine to produce a twisted net that would not unravel when cut was John Heathcoat’s Bobbin net or Twisted net machine invented in 1808. It was a twisted net that so closely resembled the handmade bobbin net that the two could scarcely be told apart. Heathcoat’s bobbinet machine is so ingeniously designed that the ones used today have suffered little alteration. The gauge of the mesh is calculated by the number of bobbins working per square inch of the machine’s width with the coarsest net being 4 point (or 4 bobbins per square inch) and the finest at 16 point.(cf the Leavers machine at 30 point) Assuming the paper clip to be approximately one inch long this fragment would appear to be towards the finest net that Heathcoat’s machine could produce.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine net for base of embroidery.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, fragment, machine, net, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bed Jacket, c 1860
Another delicate item, this bed jacket has been made with machine made cotton net which has seams joined with bobbin tape. The hand appliqued motifs on the back of the jacket are possibly Princess lace which is a type of tape lace made in Belgium in the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries. There are two types of Princess lace, one is where the tape shapes are sewn on to net and the other is where the shapes are linked together to form a type of guipure lace. This could be an example of the former known as an applique lace. Unfortunately one of the cuffs has become detached. Packaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff" Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Motifs hand sewn on to machined net; bobbin tape on seams (NGV) Princess machine lace machine made motifs hand-applied Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860. From Kel Bright Collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, garment, clothing, hand, sewn, bobbin, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Bed Jacket, Cuff, 1860
This is a fine cotton bed jacket decorated with beautiful whitework embroidery. Whitework is any type of embroidery where the threads worked are the same colour as the base fabric. It is usually worked on white linen but this could be worked on Hardanger fabric which is 22 thread count cotton. The embroidery is a combination of types but drawn thread work and Hardanger work can be clearly seen on this garment.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Bed Jacket with open frontPackaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, cuff, garment, clothing, princess, machine, bobbin -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - LACE MAKER
... , No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x... Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream ...Includes; .1 Lace Maker .2 3 x samples of lace .3.Bill of Sale dated 7 March 1916 payment received with thanks C.H Coombe .4 Price list of Torchon Lace Co.229 Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia .5The Torchon Lace Making Booklet, 12th edition, copyright 1904 .6 Letter (undated) offering The complete lacemaking outfit .7 Document with customer reviews .8 Booklet "The Torchon Lace Maker (illustrated) Copy right 1904 All rights Reserved .9 30 x cardboard lace making patterns No. 20 Torchon Edging, Diamond Point Edging, Net Ground, 2 x Round Point Edging, Edging No. 11, Diamond Antique Edging, Jewel Insertion, Smyrna Edging, Rose Ground, Edging No. 24, Insertion No. 22, No.5 Twisted Hole Ground with "Spider". Spider insertion, Copenhagen Lace, Plain Hole Ground, Ornamental Ground Pin Check, Block Lace, Spider Lace, No. 18 Medici Lace, ZigZag Lace, Wide Antique Lace, Diamond Antique Edging, Block Lace, Jewel Insertion, Edging No. 24, Spider Lace, Zig-Zag Lace, Medici Lace, No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn into the centre of the doyley. .12 Large wooden cotton reel with cream coloured lacemaking thread .1 White sticker, "63" printed in black placed on Lace Maker .12 Eagley imprinted into one end of the reellace making machine, christina mckenzie lawrence -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Point d'Angleterre, 1760-1780
Use: Domestic. Household trimmingBobbin motifs appliqued onto machine net -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Machine or Bobbin lace, 1900-2000
... Machine or Bobbin lace.... Fashion Machine lace insertion Textile Machine or Bobbin lace ...Use: Domestic. FashionMachine lace insertion -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Accessory - Tape lace collar, 1890-1910
One of a group of items including lace and crochet collars and pelerines, a jabot, a chid's dress and a wedding dress donated by KHS member, Kathryn (Kate) Gwynne Reeve (nee Marx) that belonged to members of her family. Tape lace is either a hand made (with a bobbin) or a machine woven tape. The tape is folded into the required design and then fixed and embellished with connecting lace or embroidery stitches of various kinds.Tape lace collar. L 17 cm / W 39 cm / Circumference 98 cmaccessories, tape lace, lace collars -
Mont De Lancey
Lace making equipment
... -and-dandenong-ranges lacemaking equipment lacemaking bobbins Lace making ...Lace making equipment with blue velvet round board with a number of bobbins with beads and cotton. In blue/white patterned carry bag.lacemaking equipment, lacemaking bobbins -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Machine - Lace Making machine
... Lace making loom on blue plush base. Round cylinder... on cylinder with pins to form lace pattern. 32 wooden bobbins ...American lace loom. Victorian substitute for the usual lac maker's cushion.Lace making loom on blue plush base. Round cylinder with wooden handle. Green base on cylinder with pins to form lace pattern. 32 wooden bobbins with cotton attached lead cotton to pattern.handcrafts, lacemaking