White lace round milk jug cover with white shell on outside edge.handcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, domestic items, food storage & preservation

Square cream crochet milk jug cover decorated with green and red beads.handcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, domestic items, food storage & preservation

Donated by Don , who grew up in Blackburn. Our Society did an Oral History ( NK 6057 ) on his life. The tape is held in our files.Pyrex Juice jug with orange & lemon print & yellow lid with gold tip.PYREX R U.S.A.domestic items, food & drink consumption

Jon and Alda Hubbard were operating Gellibrand Pottery around the late 1980s on the Old Beech Forrest Road in Gellibrand near Colac in the Otway region.Photo of a hand thrown jug with glaze decoration. It is stamped (impressed) "Gellibrand Pottery". ceramics, pottery, gellibrand pottery, studio pottery

Decorative ceramic cream jug. Border on lower rim of red flowers on red stems including green leaves. Has a wide border of navy blue. Above it has the same decoration as described for lower rim. Above it has a narrow rim of navy blue. Jug has a narrow spit and a thin decorative handle in white. The base and interior of the jug are also white.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug

In 1885 John Francis Brown first planted 10 acres of vines in Milawa, Victoria. Brown Brothers was founded in 1889 when the vines were ready to produce their first crop, as John hoped his brothers would join him in this new and promising venture. This did not happen but the name remained. Since 1899 Brown Brothers has grown into one of Australia’s largest family-owned wine businesses and now operates several vineyards in Victoria and Tasmania. These ceramic jars were used by Brown Brothers in the 1970s and 1980s to package Port, Muscat and Tokay. Fortified wines packaged in this manner would maintain their quality for decades as long as the wax seal was unbroken. Elischer Pottery was started in Sandringham, Melbourne Victoria in 1947 by well-known sculptor John (Johann Wolfgang) Elischer (1891-1966) and his son, also named John, (known as Wolly). John (Snr) was born in Vienna and trained at the Academy of Vienna from 1908 to 1911 and was an Associate of the Royal Academy Vienna. John (Senior) died in 1966 and the business was continued by his son John (Wolly), until 1987 when it was sold. Prior to that, at some time, he started making pieces the brand NCP. The business continues today as “Unique Ceramics” in Highett, Victoria. They continue to use the “Elischer” brand on some of their products.This jug is representative of an historic and continuing leading Australian Winemaker located in Northeast Victoria.An earthenware wine jug created for Brown Brothers Milawa Vineyard manufactured by John Elischer Pottery. The jug has a tradition loop handle. The bottom half of the jug is a traditional beige colour with a darker brown top section. The logo is imprinted in black and is covered in a clear glaze. The cork stopper is still intact although before being opened would have been sealed with wax.Company logo on one side: at top a central male image between the text "Founding Father /John F Brown. In a central oval around the name "Milawa", BROWN BROTHERS/ VINEYARD AUSTRALIA" On base: "97"brown brothers milawa, elischer pottery, northeast victorian wineries

This is an example of a late 19th century item commonly found in a bedroom of a comfortable home.Large ceramic bedroom water jug, Beige in colour with gold enscribing. Rim is scalloped.ceramic jug porcelain

Black and white photograph of a male student attaching a handle to a jug at the Ballarat School of Mines.ceramics, pottery, ballarat school of mines, ballarat technical art school

Jug, ceramic white glaze, relief decoration, ornate handle. Stamped with IBH England.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic white glaze, ceramic jug, ibh england.

Unopened brown jug depicting Roll of Honour of 7 RAR from 1965 - 1990No 170 List of names of Honour Rollcommemorative jug, 7 rar

Jug Cover. White circular net with crochet edge . With blue beads weighing the edge.stawell clothing material

Collected from Eastern Emergency NetworkHeavy glass measuring jug with imperial measures from two pints to 40 ounces.1/4 PT - 2 PT; 5 OZ - 40 OZdomestic items, cooking, glass technology, bottles

Round white cotton crocheted milk jug cover with intricate pattern of blue beads.handcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, domestic items, food storage & preservation

Round white and blue cotton milk jug cover with blue beads around rdge.handcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, domestic items, food storage & preservation

The beginning of standardised weights and measures began In Victoria when the Melbourne Observatory received sets of standard weights and measures, which had been tested in Britain against the then British Imperial standards. These included the primary standard yard and pound for the Colony of Victoria. Other standards of weights and measure held by shires and the administrative body's within the colony could then be compared to these primary standards. A Weights and Measures Act was passed in Victoria in 1862, establishing local inspectors throughout the colony. By the 1870s each local council and shire in Victoria held a set of standards that were used to test scales, weights and dry measures used by wholesalers, factories and shops. Every ten years the councils’ standards would themselves need to be rechecked against the Victorian Standards. The checking was done by the Victorian Customs Department in the 19th century, but with the transfer of responsibility for customs to the Federal Government in 1901, weights and measures function was retained by the Victorian Government and was shifted to the Melbourne Observatory. In 1904, a new building was erected at the south end of the Great Melbourne Telescope House, where the standard weights and measures and testing equipment was installed. This room had a large whirling apparatus for testing air meters and became known as the Whirling Room. When the Melbourne Observatory closed in 1944, the Weights and Measures Branch was formed to continue and this branch remained at the Observatory site unit until 1995.An example of a galvanised measuring jug made specifically to maintain government standard liquid measurements that were sold to the public. The probability is that this artifact was made around the first quarter of the 20th century and gives us today a snapshot of how imperial weights and measures were used before decimalisation and how a standard of measurement for merchants was developed in Australian based on the Imperial British measurement system. The container has social significance as an item used in Victoria as a legal standard measure to ensure that goods sold in Victoria were correct. Jug conical shaped with rounded top coming to a very slight point wide handle at back. VIB.L.66 1/2 Gall capacityflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

Ceramic jug, cream body with black handle and spout, with picture of Ringwood Town Hall on side.Town Hall, Ringwood, Victoria; Royal Stone China, Made in Czechoslovakia, RKG, 110

Basket cane with 2 semi circular handles at top. Contains earthenware jug with broken topflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Unopened black jug with gold lettering - Vietnam Veteran's Association Australia. Launceston Tasmania 1996Commemorative Port Vietnam Veteran's Association of Australia. Launceston Tasmania 1996 "Family Reunion 30 years on"commemorative jug, vietnam veterans

Unopened cream and tan jug depicting the 87 Tpt PL Shepperton Reunion Aug 89Teaspoons 87 Tpt PL Vietnam 1966-67 Shepperton Reunion August 1989commemorative jug, 87 transport platoon

Round cream crocheted milk jug cover heavily encrusted with green beads in a triangle pattern.handcrafts, crocheting or crochet work, domestic items, food storage & preservation

White cotton crocheted milk jug cover with blue trimming and blue beads used as weightshandcrafts, needlework

Cream china milk jug with green bands around body & handle, gold around rim.Superior quality made in Japandomestic equipment, table setting, jug, k232

A white ceramic milk jug. The manufacturer mark on the bottom. Part of the Aileen and John Ellison collection.Cetem ware England on the bottommilk jug, cetem ware