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matching blue glass
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Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Container - Ink Bottle and Pen, Caldwell’s Ink Factory, Early 20th century
This shaped ink bottle made by Caldwell's is called a 'boat ink bottle'. It was shaped especially to hold a nib pen when the pen was not in use. The design of the bottle is sometimes called a ‘cottage’ or ‘boat’ shape. The Caldwell’s handmade glass ink bottle was mouth-blown into a two-piece mould, a method often used in the mid-to-late 19th century. The glass blower burst the bottle off the end of his blowpipe with a tool, leaving an uneven mouth and sharp edge on the bottle, which was usually filed. The bottle was then filled with ink and sealed with a cork. More expensive bottles would have a lip added, which was more time-consuming and costly to produce. The capacity for a bottle such as this was about 3 ½ oz (ounces) equal to about 100 ml. Pen and ink have been in use for handwriting since about the seventh century. A quill pen made from a bird’s feather was used up until around the mid-19th century. In the 1850s a steel point nib for the dip pen was invented and could be manufactured on machines in large quantities. The nis only held a small amount of ink so users had to frequently dip the nib into an ink well for more ink. Handwriting left wet ink on the paper, so the blotting paper was carefully used to absorb the excess ink and prevent smudging. Ink could be purchased as a ready-to-use liquid or in powdered form, which needed to be mixed with water. In the 1880s a successful, portable fountain pen gave smooth-flowing ink and was easy to use. In the mid-20th century, the modern ballpoint pen was readily available and inexpensive, so the fountain pen lost its popularity. However, artisans continue to use nib pens to create beautiful calligraphy. Caldwell’s Ink Co. – F.R. Caldwell established Caldwell’s Ink Company in Australia around 1902. In Victoria, he operated from a factory at Victoria Avenue, Albert Park, until about 1911, then from Yarra Bank Road in South Melbourne. Newspaper offices were appointed as agencies to sell his inks, for example, in 1904 the New Zealand Evening Star sold Caldwell’s Flo-Eesi blue black ink in various bottle sizes, and Murchison Advocate (Victoria) stocked Caldwell’s ink in crimson, green, blue black, violet, and blue. Caldwell’s ink was stated to be “non-corrosive and unaffected by steel pens”. A motto used in advertising in 1904-1908 reads ‘Makes Writing a Pleasure’. Stationers stocked Caldwell’s products and hawkers sold Caldwell’s ink stands from door to door in Sydney in the 1910s and 1920s. In 1911 Caldwell promised cash for returned ink bottles and warned of prosecution for anyone found refilling his bottles. Caldwell’s Ink Stands were given as gifts. The company encouraged all forms of writing with their Australian-made Flo-Eesi writing inks and bottles at their impressive booth in the ‘All Australian Exhibition’ in 1913. It advertised its other products, which included Caldwell’s Gum, Caldwell’s Stencil Ink (copy ink) and Caldwell’s Quicksticker as well as Caldwell’s ‘Zac’ Cough Mixture. Caldwell stated in a 1920 article that his inks were made from a formula that was over a century old, and were scientifically tested and quality controlled. The formula included gallic and tannic acids and high-quality dyes to ensure that they did not fade. They were “free from all injurious chemicals”. The permanent quality of the ink was important for legal reasons, particularly to banks, accountants, commerce, municipal councils and lawyers. The Caldwell’s Ink Company also exported crates of its ink bottles and ink stands overseas. Newspaper advertisements can be found for Caldwell’s Ink Company up until 1934 when the company said they were the Best in the business for 40 years.This pen and ink bottle set is of significance as the bottle has its original cork and retains remnants of ink, which was made from a recipe that at the time was over 100 years old, according to Caldwell.. The handmade, mould blown method of manufacture is representative of a 19th-century handcraft industry that is now been largely replaced by mass production. The bottle and its contents are of state significance for being produced by an early Melbourne industry and exported overseas. The pen and ink set is historically significant as it represents methods of handwritten communication that were still common up until the mid-20th century when fountain pens and modern ballpoint pens became popular and convenient and typewriters were becoming part of standard office equipment.Victorian boat ink bottle; small rectangular clear glass ink bottle with horizontal grooves made in the glass for resting and holding the pen. The set includes one pen and nib with the bottle and cork. The bottle is made by Caldwell's and contains its Flo-Eesi Blue Black Ink brand."Caldwell's Flo-Eesi Blue Black Ink."flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, ink, nib pen, writing ink, writing, copying, banks, lawyers, commerce, student, permanent ink, flo-eesi, blue black ink, stationery, record keeping, handwriting, writing equipment, writing accessory, office supply, cottage bottle, boat bottle, mouth-blown bottle, two-part mould, sheer-lip bottle, burst-lip, cork seal, f r caldwell, caldwell’s ink company, albert park, south melbourne, inkstands, stencil ink, copy ink, quicksticker, zac cough mixture -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Craft - Ship in bottle
Ship model in glass bottle mounted on timber with presentation plaque on front of timber. Ship is 3 masted sailing ship, no sails, towing small boat, flying red flag with blue and white cross. Background includes cliffs and two lighthouses. There is an inscription of the bottom of the model.Plaque on front of timber mount "To / FLAGSTAFF HILL MARITIME MUSEUM / WARRNAMBOOL AUSTRALIA …" Inscribed on Bottom "NORSK HÅKON skib No Filo Nilsen 230" flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, model ship, model ship in bottle, norwegian model ship, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Container - Ink Bottles, Caldwell’s Ink Factory, Early 20th century
This crate of bottles may have come from a wholesaler, business, stationer or school. The design of the bottles is sometimes called a ‘cottage’ or ‘boat’ shape. Each of the 70 Caldwell’s handmade glass ink bottles was mouth-blown into a two-piece mould, a method often used in the mid-to-late 19th century. The glass blower burst the bottle off the end of his blowpipe with a tool, leaving an uneven mouth and sharp edge on the bottle, which was usually filed. The bottle was then filled with ink and sealed with a cork. More expensive bottles would have a lip added, which was more time-consuming and costly to produce. The capacity for a bottle such as this was about 3 ½ oz (ounces) equal to about 100 ml. Pen and ink have been in use for handwriting since about the seventh century. A quill pen made from a bird’s feather was used up until around the mid-19th century. In the 1850s a steel point nib for the dip pen was invented and could be manufactured on machines in large quantities. The nis only held a small amount of ink so users had to frequently dip the nib into an ink well for more ink. Handwriting left wet ink on the paper, so the blotting paper was carefully used to absorb the excess ink and prevent smudging. Ink could be purchased as a ready-to-use liquid or in powdered form, which needed to be mixed with water. In the 1880s a successful, portable fountain pen gave smooth-flowing ink and was easy to use. In the mid-20th century, the modern ballpoint pen was readily available and inexpensive, so the fountain pen lost its popularity. However, artisans continue to use nib pens to create beautiful calligraphy. Caldwell’s Ink Co. – F.R. Caldwell established Caldwell’s Ink Company in Australia around 1902. In Victoria, he operated from a factory at Victoria Avenue, Albert Park, until about 1911, then from Yarra Bank Road in South Melbourne. Newspaper offices were appointed as agencies to sell his inks, for example, in 1904 the New Zealand Evening Star sold Caldwell’s Flo-Eesi blue black ink in various bottle sizes, and Murchison Advocate (Victoria) stocked Caldwell’s ink in crimson, green, blue black, violet, and blue. Caldwell’s ink was stated to be “non-corrosive and unaffected by steel pens”. A motto used in advertising in 1904-1908 reads ‘Makes Writing a Pleasure’. Stationers stocked Caldwell’s products and hawkers sold Caldwell’s ink stands from door to door in Sydney in the 1910s and 1920s. In 1911 Caldwell promised cash for returned ink bottles and warned of prosecution for anyone found refilling his bottles. Caldwell’s Ink Stands were given as gifts. The company encouraged all forms of writing with their Australian-made Flo-Eesi writing inks and bottles at their impressive booth in the ‘All Australian Exhibition’ in 1913. It advertised its other products, which included Caldwell’s Gum, Caldwell’s Stencil Ink (copy ink) and Caldwell’s Quicksticker as well as Caldwell’s ‘Zac’ Cough Mixture. Caldwell stated in a 1920 article that his inks were made from a formula that was over a century old, and were scientifically tested and quality controlled. The formula included gallic and tannic acids and high-quality dyes to ensure that they did not fade. They were “free from all injurious chemicals”. The permanent quality of the ink was important for legal reasons, particularly to banks, accountants, commerce, municipal councils and lawyers. The Caldwell’s Ink Company also exported crates of its ink bottles and ink stands overseas. Newspaper advertisements can be found for Caldwell’s Ink Company up until 1934 when the company said they were the Best in the business for 40 years.This large collection of similar ink bottles is of particular significance as the bottles have come from the same source, most have their original corks and some retain their original labels, which is rare. The method of manufacture of these bottles is also representative of a 19th-century handcraft industry that is now been largely replaced by mass production. The bottles and their contents are of state significance for being produced by an early Melbourne industry and exported overseas. This case of ink bottles is historically significant as it represents methods of handwritten communication that were still common up until the mid-20th century when fountain pens and modern ballpoint pens became popular and convenient and typewriters were becoming part of standard office equipment.Ink bottles in a wooden crate; 70 rectangular, hand-blown clear glass ink bottles. They have side seams, uneven thickness, especially at the bases, and rough, burst-off mouths. The shoulders on the long sides have horizontal grooves used for pen rests. The bottles vary; some have labels, some contain remnants of blue-black ink, and many have their original corks. The glass has bubbles and imperfections. The remnants of printed labels are on white paper with a swirly border and black text. The bottles contained Caldwell’s blend of blue black ‘Flo-Eesi’ ink.Printed on label; “CALDWELL FLO-EESI BLUE BLACK INK” “ - - - - “ Printed script signature “F.R. Caldwell”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, ink, nib pen, writing ink, writing, copying, banks, lawyers, commerce, student, permanent ink, flo-eesi, blue black ink, stationery, record keeping, handwriting, writing equipment, writing accessory, office supply, cottage bottle, boat bottle, mouth-blown bottle, two-part mould, sheer-lip bottle, burst-lip, cork seal, f r caldwell, caldwell’s ink company, albert park, south melbourne, inkstands, stencil ink, copy ink, quicksticker, zac cough mixture -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Print - Religious Portrait, Herbert Beecroft, artist, The Lord turned and looked upon Peter … and Peter remembered, 1947
This print of Christ is slightly smaller than the original 1927 oil painting by Herbert Beecroft, which is titled “Christ” and measures, in centimetres, 60 high by 50 wide. The original is displayed at John Wesley’s House & The Museum of Methodism in Islington, England. The title of the print is taken from the Holy Bible, from the New Testament book of Luke, chapter 22 verse 61, which is a famous Christian account of Jesus being betrayed by Peter, which leads to Jesus’ crucifixion; “And the Lord turned, and looked upon Peter. And Peter remembered the word of the Lord, how he had said unto him, Before the cock crow, thou shalt deny me thrice.”. The print was published in 1942 by the National Sunday School Union in England, now known as the National Christian Education Council. The NSSU was established in Britain in 1803 to promote Sunday Schools in Britain and overseas. The organisation produced many publications including training manuals and materials for Sunday School teachers. Herbert Beecroft 1864-1951, also known as Lawrence Herbert Beecroft, was an early 20th-century artist. He and his wife emigrated from England to Sydney, Australia, in 1905. He worked as a painter, illustrator, miniaturist ‘lightning cartoonist’, and lecturer. From 1927 Beecroft painted a series of portraits of Jesus Christ, prints of which made many worldwide sales. He entered a miniature portrait in the 1921 inaugural Archibald Prize competition. It was one of forty-one entries but the title was unknown. It is highly probable that it was JF Archibald, the person who endowed the prize, first awarded in 1921. This print of Christ, originally painted by Herbert Beecroft, represents the social movement in the early 20th century to educate all children in good morals and Christianity.A religious portrait of the artist’s impression of Jesus. The print is in a gilt timber frame behind glass. The frame has eyelets and wire for hanging. The backing paper lifts to reveal a handwritten pencil inscription. The portrait shows a male figure from the waist up facing the viewer but turned slightly to his right. He has long wavy blond hair, a moustache and a beard. He wears a blue-grey robe over a collarless white shirt. The background is red-brown. It is the artist’s impression of Jesus. The whole frame-mat has script text above and below the print, giving its title, and details of the publisher and producer. This print was produced from an original 1927 oil painting by Herbert Beecroft. It was published in 1942 by The National Sunday School Union in London and produced by Frost & Reed Ltd. England. Handwritten script on the mat; “Published in 1942 by the National Sunday School Union, 4 Black Friars Lane, London, EC4. Produced by Frost & Reed Ltd., Bristol & London. Printed in England. Copyright.” and, “The Lord turned and looked upon Peter … and Peter remembered” Signature on bottom left “Herbert Beecroft” In pencil on backboard under back paper “H 89 / 12”. Pen on white tape “155”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, print, religious, vintage, 1942, herbert beecroft, lawrence herbert beecroft, archibald prize winner, early 20th-century, artist, oil painting, luke 22:61 -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Egg hand painted
Handpainted egg with blossom and butterfly design, mounted on blue silk base and covered by glass box.Made in People's Republic of Chinaornaments, egg, china -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Lamp
Carbide Bicycle lamp, with locking fixing attachment, reflector, glass and burner. Has red and blue side light. Printed on carbide bowl "Miller's Regalia British Made" Switch and carbide filler on top.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Porthole
Porthole, painted blue, with hinged locking bolts welded to base plate. Base plate has six bolt holes, one till with bolt and nut. Base plate has glass plate as does hinged porthole. Corrosion and paint peeling. Both plates of glass have cracks. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, porthole, ship fitting -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Instrument - Clock, 1920s
It is possible that this may have been a wedding present or gift to Roy Wines and or his family as his name is scratched on the bottom. Roy was married in 1924 in Warrnambool. Roy Arthur Wines was Born in 1897 in Mailors Flat Victoria Australia and Died in 1980 in Ballarat. Roy lived for a number of years in Warrnambool during his married life.A massed produced item that at the time was cheap to buy with no makers mark or date stamp thousands would have been produced using a mould to make the ceramic case in two half's by pouring liquid clay into the mould and then joining the half's together when cured. This item could have been produced in Holland at any number of pottery factories at this time for export in vast quantities.Ceramic clock; the mechanism is plated steel and set in a ceramic case with glass over the face. The ceramic base colour is white with royal blue ceramic colour to the front and sides only. The blue ceramic has been painted over with lime green house paint on the front and sides. An inscription of a handwritten name is on the case and a hard-to-read model or batch number is on the cast base. Handwritten "Roy Wines" Cast number "6072"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, clock, roy wines, ceramic, ceramic clock, horology, time keeper, travel clock, bedside clock, timepiece -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Glass
Falls of Halladale The Falls of Halladale was a four-masted sailing ship built-in 1886 in Glasgow, Scotland, for the long-distance cargo trade and was mostly used for Pacific grain trade. She had a sturdy construction built to carry maximum cargo and able to maintain full sail in heavy gales, one of the last of the ‘windjammers’ that sailed the Trade Route. She was one of the first vessels to include fore and aft lifting bridges, which kept the crew safe and dry in as they moved around the decks in stormy conditions. She was owned by Wright, Breakenridge & Co of Glasgow and was one of several Falls Line ships, all of which were named after waterfalls in Scotland. On 4th August 1908, with new sails, 29 crew, and 2800 tons of cargo, the Falls of Halladale left New York, bound for Melbourne and Sydney via the Cape of Good Hope. The cargo on board was valued at £35,000 and included 56,763 tiles of American slate roofing tiles, 5,673 coils of barbed wire, 600 stoves, 500 sewing machines, 6,500 gallons of oil, 14,400 gallons of benzene, plumbing iron, 117 cases of crockery and glassware and many other manufactured items. The Falls of Halladale had been at sail for 102 days when, at 3 am on the of 14th November 1908, under full sail in calm seas with a six knots breeze behind and misleading fog along the coast, the great vessel rose upon an ocean swell and settled on top of a submerged reef near Peterborough on south-west Victoria’s coast. The ship was jammed on the rocks and began filling with water. The crew launched the two lifeboats and all 29 crew landed safely on the beach over 4 miles away at the Bay of Islands. The postmistress at Peterborough, who kept a watch for vessels in distress, saw the stranding and sent out an alert to the local people. A rescue party went to the aid of the sailors and the Port Campbell rocket crew was dispatched, but the crew had all managed to reach shore safely by the time help arrived. The ship stayed in full sail on the rocky shelf for nearly two months, attracting hundreds of sightseers who watched her slowly disintegrate until the pounding seas and dynamiting by salvagers finally broke her back, and her remains disappeared back into deeper water. The valuable cargo was largely lost, despite two salvage attempts in 1908-09 and 1910. Further salvage operations were made from 1974-1986, during which time 22,000 slate tiles were recovered with the help of 14 oil drums to float them, plus personal artefacts, ship fittings, reams of paper and other items (a list of items held at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village is included below). The Court of Marine Inquiry in Melbourne ruled that the foundering of the ship was entirely due to Captain David Wood Thomson’s navigational error, not too technical failure of the Clyde-built ship. The shipwreck is a popular site for divers, about 300m offshore and in 3 – 15m of water. Some of the original cargo can be seen at the site, including pieces of roof slate and coils of barbed wire. The Falls of Halladale shipwreck is listed on the Victorian Heritage Register (No. S255). She was one of the last ships to sail the Trade Routes. She is one of the first vessels to have fore and aft lifting bridges. She is an example of the remains of an International Cargo Ship and also represents aspects of Victoria’s shipping industry. The wreck is protected as a Historic Shipwreck under the Commonwealth Historic Shipwrecks Act (1976).Porthole glass secured in wood, with a crack in the glass. Writing on wood "porthole Glass Falls of Halladale."Burnt into the wood are the words "porthole Glass Falls of Halladale."falls of halladale, wright, breakenridge & co of glasgow, californian blue roof slate, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, shipwrecked-artefact, porthole glass -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Ash Tray
Ash tray, rectanglar, moulded glass with coloured photo of Blue Lake, Mount Gambier on base. Donated by Mrs G Angus, 309B Koroit St, W'bool 27 Feb 1979.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Functional object - Ship's Fitting, circa 1825
This attractively patinated artefact was raised from the wreck site of the CHILDREN (wrecked January 1839, recovered February 1974) and was quite reasonably catalogued as a portion of a ships porthole. This identification is unlikely however, because the CHILDREN was built at Liverpool in 1824, and round portholes were not in common use until the 1850s. The catalogue identification has since been changed to "Ship's Fitting" Prior to the appearance of round portholes in the middle of the nineteenth century, the function of introducing light to lower decks was performed by square half-glassed ‘ports’ in the side of the hull (known as a port-sash) , or ground-glass ‘bullseyes’ inserted in the deck (scuttles). In historical terms, ports were always square, cut into the timber originally to allow the firing of a ships guns, and were closed in weather by a tight fitting square hatch. Flagstaff Hill Shipwreck Museum has three portholes on display that illustrate the gradual development and adoption of circular brass portholes. First in sequence is a small 12.5cm diameter window (with a deep frame for thick wooden hulls) from the 1855 wreck of SCHOMBERG. The second and third are larger 25cm diameter windows (with a shallower frame for thinner iron hulls) from the 1892 wreck of the NEWFIELD and the 1908 wreck of the FALLS OF HALLADALE . Once the apparently obvious use of the brass object is discounted, an accurate and reliable alternative classification is difficult to specify. One artefact register notes it was ‘found in about the centre of the wreck site’. This would mitigate against the possibilities of (1) ‘horseshoe frame’ joining pieces of the keel and hull at the bow of the vessel, or (2) ‘deckseat’ for a binnacle at the stern. It may support the idea of a ‘head frame’ on a cooped companionway or a ‘deckseat’ for a mainmast pump. But this is only speculation. The actual identification is not known. The wreck of the CHILDREN is of State significance - Victorian Heritage Register S116Ship's fitting, of heavy gauge brass circle, previously classified as section of ship's fitting, which was raised from the wreck of the Children. One end is broken off at an original bolt hole and the other is severed or cut at an acute angle from the inner rim. The artefact is 6cm across and 1cm deep, indicating strength and function as a substantial and finished item of moulded metal. The upper face bears sedimentary accretion stained red/brown. The rear face has been gouged by hard or corrosive materials and bears brilliant blue/green oxidisation.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, the children, brass flange, brass rim, shop fitting -
Orbost & District Historical Society
spray bottle, C 1930's
The glass phial contained liquid ethyl chloride. By directing the nozzle downwards at the skin a stream of liquid squirts out, vaporising on contact.. Ether's unpleasant smell agitated patients. Ethyl chloride's pleasant odour reduced agitation. It was used for controlling pain associated with injections and in minor surgical procedures. This item was used at Orbost Hospital.This item reflects the changes and development in medicine over the last century.A blue cardboard box containing a glass phial with metal lid that forms a spray nozzle. The lid of the box has a white manufacturer's label with blue writing. The phial has a discoloured white label with red writing.Ethyl chloride (pure) 100cc Woolwich for local anaestheticethyl-chloride chemical woolwich-eliott anaesthesia medical health orbost-hospital -
Orbost & District Historical Society
spray bottle, C 1930's
The glass phial contained liquid ethyl chloride. By directing the nozzle downwards at the skin a stream of liquid squirts out, vaporising on contact.. Ether's unpleasant smell agitated patients. Ethyl chloride's pleasant odour reduced agitation. It was used for controlling pain associated with injections and in minor surgical procedures. This item was used at Orbost Hospital. This item reflects the changes and development in medicine over the last century.A blue cardboard box containing a glass phial with metal lid that forms a spray nozzle. The phial has a discoloured white label with red writing.ethyl-chloride chemical woolwich-eliott anaesthesia medical health orbost-hospital -
Orbost & District Historical Society
mantel clock, late 1840's
... black.There is a glass door with red,blue and green decorations... and the numerals black.There is a glass door with red,blue and green ...This clock was brought out to Australia in 1849. it was then bought in Ballarat by Samuel Richardson in 1865 and brought to Orbost when he settled there. The Richardson family was one of the very early settler families to establish themselves in the Orbost district. Samuel Richardson was builder of the Paddle Steamer Curlip. This clock may have been used as a marine clock. The Richardson family was one of the very early settler families to establish themselves in the Orbost district. Samuel Richardson was builder of the Paddle Steamer Curlip. A wooden mantle clock in a rectangular cabinet. It has pendulum striking. The face has blue and gold decorations. the numerals are Roman. The face surround is white and the numerals black.There is a glass door with red,blue and green decorations on the lower quarter. There is a faded printed label behind the clock and pendulum.Scratched onto the back: "To Australia in 1849. Samuel Richardson bought this clock in Ballarat1865" -
Orbost & District Historical Society
Tropnut Flavour bottle, 1950's
A clear glass bottle with a black plastic screw top lid. It is rectangular shaped with flat sides. On the front is a colourful paper label in blue, yellow and red with black print.Label- TROPNUT ice cream flavour, icings, milk drinks, custards, cakes, puddings, ice blocks, confectionery. Artificially coloured. 2 fl oz (2/9 cost) -
Orbost & District Historical Society
bottle, C 1958
Glass bottles were refillable until the 1960s, creating a demand for their collection and onsale back to beverage manufacturers via ‘bottle merchants’.A tall clear glass 30oz bottle with a blue and white painted label on the front. It has a screw thead top.Base - AGM logo M Front label - Registered trademark AYGEE In circle rosette - First Prize Back - AYGEE is best. M21 Royal Show This bottle always remains the property 1958 of AYGEE Products Traralgon preservative addedbottle aygee container soft-drink -
Orbost & District Historical Society
bottle, circa 1930's?
Glass bottles were refillable until the 1960s, creating a demand for their collection and onsale back to beverage manufacturers via ‘bottle merchants’.A clear glass bottle with fluted patterns around the shoulder and base. It has a blue/green tinge. The top seems to be made for a cork stopper.This bottle is the property of On the base - AGM Studley Preserving Co Pty Ltdstudley-preserving-co bottle container cordial -
Orbost & District Historical Society
bottle
A clear glass bottle with a paper label and a metal screw lid. It is a cordial bottle which contained Kia-Ora FRUIT CUP FRUIT JUICE CORDIAL. It held 26 fluid ounces. The label has pictures of fruit with red print on a white background and white print on a blue background.Lid - in pencil - 3/4 Base - AGM S M 183 On paper label - Kia-ora FRUIT CUP FRUIT JUICE CORDIALbeverage bottle container cordial kia-ora -
Orbost & District Historical Society
ink bottle, early 20th century from mid 1930's
An ink bottle was made of glass or ceramic and typically sat on a desk. The writer would dip the pen (or quill) into the bottle to put more ink on the pen. Because they sat on a desk, ink bottles were often decorative. 'Stephens' Ink' was invented by the British physician, Dr Henry Stephens (1796-1864), who in 1832 first developed his indelible "blue-black writing fluid" that became the basis of a successful manufacturing enterprise lasting over 130 years. Stephens' ink revolutionised office life in the latter half of the 19th century saving clerical workers much time previously spent mixing powdered inks and cleaning nibs. It was indelible and non-fading. After changes to the Australian import duties on inks, a local manufacturing works was established in the early 1930s by Stephens Inks (Australia) Ltd.We have mostly dispensed with ink bottles and quills. This item is an example of early stationery equipment commonly used in schools, households and commercial enterprises. A cylindrical brown glazed ceramic bottle with a pourer lip. This would have contained ink and had a cork seal. It would have had a paper label.Near base - This bottle is the property of Stephens' Inks Aust. Ltdcontainer ceramic stephens'-inks writing-equipment communication bottle stationery -
Orbost & District Historical Society
light
A large dark blue/purple spherical light shade made of glass. It has aluminium fittings. -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Personal item, Glasses case, Early 20th century
The spectacles case comes from G.H. Morton, an optician at 192 Liebig Street, Warrnambool in the 1930s and 40s. He advertised as being ‘near Bloore’s Corner’. The two pair of spectacles may not have been from Morton’s business but may have been stored in the case separately. These glasses and the case are of some interest, firstly because the case comes from the business of G.H.Morton, a Warrnambool optician for a number of years. They also have a social significance as representing the type of eyewear used early in the 20th century. This is a blue leather spectacles case with a wooden insert to hold the glasses. There are two pair of spectacles – one with rimless glass and a gold nose piece (there is a small chip at the edge of one piece of glass) and one with gold rimmed glass and gold handles. The latter has a small piece of metal attached to the side of the glass. On spectacles case: ‘G.H.Morton, FSMC, FBOA, FIO, by exam, London, Qualified Optician, Warrnambool’g.h.morton, optician, optician, warrnambool -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Numismatics, Coin Collection
These coins were in use in Australia during the 20th century up to 1965. The coinage was based on the imperial system with the basic currency unit being the pound. In February 1966 decimal coinage was introduced in Australia with the basic currency unit being the dollar (equivalent in value to half a pound or ten shillings). This collection of coins shows what coins looked like in Australia before the introduction of decimal currency. It is a very useful display item. This is a collection of coins in a wooden box. The wood is polished and has brass hinges on the lid and a brass lock and keyhole on the box’s side. The lid is lined with blue felt and on the top of the lid is a much-scratched brass shield (intended for inscribing a name). Inside the box there is a clear piece of glass over the coins which are pasted onto a piece of buff-coloured paper. There are 40 coins in the box. The heading is hand written (calligraphy) in black ink and the other information is type-written. ‘Australian Pre-Decimal Coinage’ ‘Edward V11, Threepence & Sixpence, 1910’ ‘George V, Halfpenny, Penny, Threepence, Sixpence, Shilling, Florin, 1911-1936’ ‘George V1, Halfpenny, Penny, Threepence, Sixpence, Shilling, Florin, 1938-1952’ ‘Elizabeth 11, Halfpenny, Penny, Threepence, Sixpence, Shilling, Florin. 1963-1963’ decimal currency in australia, pre-decimal currency in australia, history of warrnambool -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Platter, Transfer Hopkins River
This is a souvenir dish or small plate with an illustration of the Hopkins River in Warrnambool. Included in the illustration are the rowing shed, the boathouses and the lambertiana trees in the property of Lyndoch. The souvenir dish would have been sold to tourists visiting Warrnambool or Warrnambool residents in the 1920s and 30s. This type of souvenir was popular at the time in any tourist town or place in Australia. Tourism has been an important industry in Warrnambool since the late 19th century. This item is of interest as an example of the type of souvenir produced for tourists in the 1920s and 30s. It was both a useful and decorative item. It will be useful for display. This is a small glass souvenir dish. The centre of the dish features a colour illustration of the Hopkins River, Warrnambool (near its mouth). The glass around the illustration is heavily patterned and embossed. The bottom of the dish is dark blue. ‘Hopkins River Warrnambool’ tourism in warrnambool, warrnambool history -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Ledger Letter Book, 1871-1875, Swintons Stock book 1867, 1860s
This ledger is a Warrnambool Swintons Store stock book and contains the sales of stock from January to August 1869. William and Ann Swinton migrated to Australia in 1854 and for a decade William Swinton worked as a builder and carpenter in the Warrnambool area, erecting many buildings, including the Wangoom Presbyterian Church. In 1865 he opened a shop in Timor Street Warrnambool, selling groceries, china, glass and hardware. In 1888 the business was known as William Swinton and Sons. Branch shops were opened in Cudgee, South Warrnambool, West Warrnambool, Wangoom and Nullawarre. When William died his son Robert became the first managing director of Swintons Pty Ltd. In 1934 the business split in two with George Swinton and Sons selling furnishings, clothing and glassware and Swintons Pty Ltd selling seeds, hardware and produce. Today the Swinton family still operates a furniture and bedding store in Timor Street.This ledger is of great importance as it is a very early memento of the Swinton stores in Warrnambool. It dates from only four years after the founding of the Swinton store in 1865 and gives us lists of products sold, the names of the buyers and the prices of the goods – a great source of information for researchers and all those interested in Warrnambool’s business history. The current Swinton business in Timor Street is the oldest family business in Warrnambool and, with the Swinton name associated with businesses in Timor Street for 152 years, is among the oldest family businesses in Australia. This is a ledger with a cover of brown paper lined with heavy-duty cardboard. The insides of the cover have a mottled brown and blue patterning. Both the cover and the inside patterning are much torn and parts of the cover are missing. The cover is almost detached from the body of the book. The pages are blue and have red lines for entry purposes. The entries are handwritten in black ink. The pages are mostly intact but they are very stained and the edges are tatteredswinton family, warrnambool, history of warrnambool -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Ledger, Ledger (Swinton 1969-1978)
This ledger contains summaries of trading finances for Swintons Pty Ltd and Swintons Supermarket for the years 1969 to 1978. William and Ann Swinton migrated to Australia in 1854 and for a decade William Swinton worked as a builder and carpenter in the Warrnambool district erecting many buildings including the Wangoom Presbyterian Church. In 1865 he opened a store in Timor Street selling groceries, china, glass and hardware. By 1888 the business was known as William Swinton and Sons. Branch stores were opened in Cudgee, Nullawarre, Wangoom, West Warrnambool and South Warrnambool. When William Swinton died his son Robert became the first managing director of Swintons Pty Ltd. In 1934 the business split, with George Swinton and Sons selling furnishings, clothing and glassware and Swintons Pty Ltd selling seeds, hardware and produce. Today the Swinton family still operates a furniture and bedding business in Timor Street. This ledger is of great interest as it contains summaries of the financial records of the Swintons Supermarket and Swintons Pty Ltd from 1969 to 1978. It will be very useful to researchers. The current Swinton business in Timor Street is the oldest family business in Warrnambool and, with the Swinton name associated with businesses in Timor Street for 152 years, it is one of the oldest family businesses in Australia. This is a hard cover book with a green cover. There is black printing on the spine and on the front cover. The pages are white with printed ruled blue lines and printed red and blue columns. The entries are handwritten in blue ink. There are two pages at the back with printed graph patterns.‘Collins Analysis Book 61 Series’swintons family, warrnambool, history of warrnambool -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Ledger, Swintons Ledger, 1960s
This ledger was used in the Warrnambool business of Swintons Pty Ltd. It contains the records of financial statements for the years 1969 to 1978 – rates and taxes accounts, trial balances and accounts for light and power, wages etc. William and Ann Swinton migrated to Australia in 1854 and for a decade William Swinton worked as a builder and carpenter in the Warrnambool area, erecting many buildings including the Wangoom Presbyterian Church. In 1865 he opened a store in Timor Street Warrnambool, selling groceries, china and glass ware and hardware. By 1888 the business was known as William Swinton and Sons. Branch stores were opened in Cudgee, Nullawarre, Wangoom, South Warrnambool and West Warrnambool. After William Swinton died his son Robert became the first managing director of Swintons Pty Ltd. In 1934 the business split with George Swinton and Sons selling furnishings, clothing and glassware and Swintons Pty Ltd selling seeds, produce and hardware. Today the Swinton family still operates a furniture and bedding store in Timor Street. This ledger is of considerable interest as it contains much important information on the financial operations of Swintons Pty Ltd in the 1960s and 70s. This information will be very useful to researchers. The current Swinton business in Timor Street is the oldest family business in Warrnambool and, with the name Swinton associated with Timor Street businesses for 152 years, it is among the oldest family businesses in Australia. This is a hard cover book with a green cover and a green mottled patterning inside the cover. The pages are held in the cover by two metal studs. There are white and yellow pages which have A to Z tabs on the side. The pages have printed blue lines. The entries are handwritten in blue ink with some pencil entries.swinton family, warrnambool, history of warrnambool -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Bottle, Perfume, Late 19th century
No information is available on this particular bottle. The hand-painted flowers may have been added by the owner after purchase. Painting on glass was very popular in the 1880s and 1890s. Perfume bottles were carried by ladies to use when the odours of the surrounds were objectionable or when they needed to freshen up on a journey. This bottle is of some interest as an example of the items carried by a woman in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It is useful for displayThis is a small glass perfume bottle with a rounded bottom and a silver-coloured metal stopper. The hinged stopper has a chain attached with a metal ring for attachment to a belt or purse. The top of the stopper has an ornate etching on it. There are hand-painted flowers on the side of the bottle (white, orange, green and blue)perfume bottle, warrnambool, 1880 perfume bottle