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Bendigo Historical Society Inc.
Document - Y.M.C.A., Y'S WORKBOX, DISPLAY & DEMONSTRATION OF HAND CRAFTS, 26th October 1986
Event, Bendigo Y.M.C.A., Y's Workbox, Sunday, October 26th,1986, at the Y.M.C.A. Stadium, Mundy Street, Bendigo, 10am - 5pm. Admission: Adults $2.50, Children 50c, Devonshire Teas $1.20. Crafts include; Fantasy Figures, Woodcarving, Bread Dough Jewellery, Various Embroidery Techniques, Sand Pictures, Irish Crochet, Slipcast Ceramics, Herbal Products, Lead Lighting, Tatting, Ribbon Flowers, Porcelain Dolls, Applique, Polished Natural Timbers, Dried Floral Art, Knitted Lace, Natural Material Baskets, Marzipan Fruits, Bobbin Lace, Christmas Novelties, Papermaking, Embroidery Thru the Ages, Childen's Display & Parade, Display of Knitted & Crochet Rugs. C.MarroneC.Marrone.event, exhibition, bendigo y.m.c.a. -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tatting Shuttle
Tatting is a form of knotted lace making using thread and a small shuttle. Twisted threads are tied around or through small, pointed shuttles that can be made of bone, mother of pearl, tortoise shell, steel or plastic. This produces a stable, strong lace using simple knots of two half hitches to make rings and chains embellished with picots. The origins of tatting are not clear but early versions of decorative knotting were used by the Egyptians on their ceremonial dress. Tatting also has elements of fishermen's net making techniques and the decorative knotting that was practiced by aristocratic women from the 15th century. Tatting, as we know it today, emerged in the first half of the 19th century. The new availability of mercerised thread from 1835 encouraged a burgeoning of lace crafts of all sorts. It was known in Italy as "occhi" and in France as "la frivolite". Tatting looks fragile but is both strong and durable. An article in a column named "Wives and Daughters" published in the Star newspaper in May 1910 describes the durability of tatting lace - "there is edging and insertion still in existence that have outworn two sets of pillow slips." In the 19th century and well into the 20th century, tatting was used like crochet and knitted lace for decorative edgings, collars, doylies, tray cloths etc. At first, different tatting patterns were passed along by word of mouth from person to person, however in time, patterns regularly appeared in newspapers and magazines well into the 1950's. A shuttle is a small tool that looks like a small boat "sailing" in and out of the thread. Tatting is called "schiffchenarbeit" in German, which means "the work of a little boat". There are two popular types of shuttles. The first has closed ends and a removable bobbin where the thread is wound around - often made from metal or plastic. The second type has a post in the center where the thread is wound. The ends of this bobbin are open but snug. Because it is constructed in two pieces, it can be made from materials like bone, ivory or mother of pearl. Shuttles hold a larger amount of thread (as compared with needles) which means fewer ends to weave in. Fishermen in the past are thought to have used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots whilst making their fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, who innovated by using threads and smaller shuttles to make lace.Tatting Shuttle, Black plastic, "ARCHER" inscribed. "ARCHER" inscribed.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tatting shuttle, handcraft, needlework -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tatting Shuttle
Tatting is a form of knotted lace making using thread and a small shuttle. Twisted threads are tied around or through small, pointed shuttles that can be made of bone, mother of pearl, tortoise shell, steel or plastic. This produces a stable, strong lace using simple knots of two half hitches to make rings and chains embellished with picots. The origins of tatting are not clear but early versions of decorative knotting were used by the Egyptians on their ceremonial dress. Tatting also has elements of fishermen's net making techniques and the decorative knotting that was practiced by aristocratic women from the 15th century. Tatting, as we know it today, emerged in the first half of the 19th century. The new availability of mercerised thread from 1835 encouraged a burgeoning of lace crafts of all sorts. It was known in Italy as "occhi" and in France as "la frivolite". Tatting looks fragile but is both strong and durable. An article in a column named "Wives and Daughters" published in the Star newspaper in May 1910 describes the durability of tatting lace - "there is edging and insertion still in existence that have outworn two sets of pillow slips." In the 19th century and well into the 20th century, tatting was used like crochet and knitted lace for decorative edgings, collars, doylies, tray cloths etc. At first, different tatting patterns were passed along by word of mouth from person to person, however in time, patterns regularly appeared in newspapers and magazines well into the 1950's. A shuttle is a small tool that looks like a small boat "sailing" in and out of the thread. Tatting is called "schiffchenarbeit" in German, which means "the work of a little boat". There are two popular types of shuttles. The first has closed ends and a removable bobbin where the thread is wound around - often made from metal or plastic. The second type has a post in the center where the thread is wound. The ends of this bobbin are open but snug. Because it is constructed in two pieces, it can be made from materials like bone, ivory or mother of pearl. Shuttles hold a larger amount of thread (as compared with needles) which means fewer ends to weave in. Fishermen in the past are thought to have used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots whilst making their fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, who innovated by using threads and smaller shuttles to make lace.Tatting Shuttle, tortoise-shellflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tatting shuttle, handcraft, needlework -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tatting Shuttle
Tatting is a form of knotted lace making using thread and a small shuttle. Twisted threads are tied around or through small, pointed shuttles that can be made of bone, mother of pearl, tortoise shell, steel or plastic. This produces a stable, strong lace using simple knots of two half hitches to make rings and chains embellished with picots. The origins of tatting are not clear but early versions of decorative knotting were used by the Egyptians on their ceremonial dress. Tatting also has elements of fishermen's net making techniques and the decorative knotting that was practiced by aristocratic women from the 15th century. Tatting, as we know it today, emerged in the first half of the 19th century. The new availability of mercerised thread from 1835 encouraged a burgeoning of lace crafts of all sorts. It was known in Italy as "occhi" and in France as "la frivolite". Tatting looks fragile but is both strong and durable. An article in a column named "Wives and Daughters" published in the Star newspaper in May 1910 describes the durability of tatting lace - "there is edging and insertion still in existence that have outworn two sets of pillow slips." In the 19th century and well into the 20th century, tatting was used like crochet and knitted lace for decorative edgings, collars, doylies, tray cloths etc. At first, different tatting patterns were passed along by word of mouth from person to person, however in time, patterns regularly appeared in newspapers and magazines well into the 1950's. A shuttle is a small tool that looks like a small boat "sailing" in and out of the thread. Tatting is called "schiffchenarbeit" in German, which means "the work of a little boat". There are two popular types of shuttles. The first has closed ends and a removable bobbin where the thread is wound around - often made from metal or plastic. The second type has a post in the center where the thread is wound. The ends of this bobbin are open but snug. Because it is constructed in two pieces, it can be made from materials like bone, ivory or mother of pearl. Shuttles hold a larger amount of thread (as compared with needles) which means fewer ends to weave in. Fishermen in the past are thought to have used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots whilst making their fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, who innovated by using threads and smaller shuttles to make lace.Tatting Shuttle, black plastic flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tatting shuttle, handcraft, needlework -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tatting Shuttle
Tatting is a form of knotted lace making using thread and a small shuttle. Twisted threads are tied around or through small, pointed shuttles that can be made of bone, mother of pearl, tortoise shell, steel or plastic. This produces a stable, strong lace using simple knots of two half hitches to make rings and chains embellished with picots. The origins of tatting are not clear but early versions of decorative knotting were used by the Egyptians on their ceremonial dress. Tatting also has elements of fishermen's net making techniques and the decorative knotting that was practiced by aristocratic women from the 15th century. Tatting, as we know it today, emerged in the first half of the 19th century. The new availability of mercerised thread from 1835 encouraged a burgeoning of lace crafts of all sorts. It was known in Italy as "occhi" and in France as "la frivolite". Tatting looks fragile but is both strong and durable. An article in a column named "Wives and Daughters" published in the Star newspaper in May 1910 describes the durability of tatting lace - "there is edging and insertion still in existence that have outworn two sets of pillow slips." In the 19th century and well into the 20th century, tatting was used like crochet and knitted lace for decorative edgings, collars, doylies, tray cloths etc. At first, different tatting patterns were passed along by word of mouth from person to person, however in time, patterns regularly appeared in newspapers and magazines well into the 1950's. A shuttle is a small tool that looks like a small boat "sailing" in and out of the thread. Tatting is called "schiffchenarbeit" in German, which means "the work of a little boat". There are two popular types of shuttles. The first has closed ends and a removable bobbin where the thread is wound around - often made from metal or plastic. The second type has a post in the center where the thread is wound. The ends of this bobbin are open but snug. Because it is constructed in two pieces, it can be made from materials like bone, ivory or mother of pearl. Shuttles hold a larger amount of thread (as compared with needles) which means fewer ends to weave in. Fishermen in the past are thought to have used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots whilst making their fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, who innovated by using threads and smaller shuttles to make lace.Tatting Shuttle, Ivoryflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tatting shuttle, handcraft, needlework -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Tatting Shuttle
Tatting is a form of knotted lace making using thread and a small shuttle. Twisted threads are tied around or through small, pointed shuttles that can be made of bone, mother of pearl, tortoise shell, steel or plastic. This produces a stable, strong lace using simple knots of two half hitches to make rings and chains embellished with picots. The origins of tatting are not clear but early versions of decorative knotting were used by the Egyptians on their ceremonial dress. Tatting also has elements of fishermen's net making techniques and the decorative knotting that was practiced by aristocratic women from the 15th century. Tatting, as we know it today, emerged in the first half of the 19th century. The new availability of mercerised thread from 1835 encouraged a burgeoning of lace crafts of all sorts. It was known in Italy as "occhi" and in France as "la frivolite". Tatting looks fragile but is both strong and durable. An article in a column named "Wives and Daughters" published in the Star newspaper in May 1910 describes the durability of tatting lace - "there is edging and insertion still in existence that have outworn two sets of pillow slips." In the 19th century and well into the 20th century, tatting was used like crochet and knitted lace for decorative edgings, collars, doylies, tray cloths etc. At first, different tatting patterns were passed along by word of mouth from person to person, however in time, patterns regularly appeared in newspapers and magazines well into the 1950's. A shuttle is a small tool that looks like a small boat "sailing" in and out of the thread. Tatting is called "schiffchenarbeit" in German, which means "the work of a little boat". There are two popular types of shuttles. The first has closed ends and a removable bobbin where the thread is wound around - often made from metal or plastic. The second type has a post in the center where the thread is wound. The ends of this bobbin are open but snug. Because it is constructed in two pieces, it can be made from materials like bone, ivory or mother of pearl. Shuttles hold a larger amount of thread (as compared with needles) which means fewer ends to weave in. Fishermen in the past are thought to have used large shuttles to weave cord into certain knots whilst making their fishing nets. Their methods were copied by weavers, who innovated by using threads and smaller shuttles to make lace.Tatting Shuttle, ivory, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, tatting shuttle, handcraft, needlework -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a machine made length of lace which has been executed in the Cluny style. Cluny lace is a bobbin style lace which is worked in a continuous piece and is heavily plaited in geometric designs. It is believed to have originated from copies of designs in the Musee de Cluny in Paris. There is a company in Ilkeston in the United Kingdom called The Cluny Lace Company which is still making both Cluny and Valenciennes lace using Leavers machines. The Mason family started making lace in the 1760s at the start of the Industrial Revolution. For two centuries the five generations of the family have paid close attention to detail and have brought the company to the forefront of new technology. Many of the lace patterns still used today were designed and draughted by Frank Maltby Mason and Francis Bowler Mason, the sixth and seventh generations of the family. They have developed a data bank of designs over this time and by combining the best of old traditions with new technology the firm is able to produce a wide range of exquisite designs of Leavers Cluny style lace allovers, edgings and insertions. This lovely insertion would be well suited to decorate a mob cap or on bed linen and nightwear.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of machine made Cluny-style lace trim with repeating diamond pattern on the border, and a central geometric/floral motifchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, machine, amess, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece x 2
These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen by the fine knots in the diamond shaped net ground and the gimp or outline has been given the appearance of being tamboured in a fine chain stitch. These cotton lace pieces have been cut from a larger piece which by shape and size appear to have been intended for a collar. They are machine made and very likely were woven on a Leavers machine with the chain stitch outline being added by a Bonnaz/Cornely machine. The Leavers machine, once coupled with the French Jacquard machine in the late 1830s, made excellent copies of any handmade lace which could be reproduced much more cheaply and much faster than the time consuming handmade laces. The Jacquard machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard and was first demonstrated in 1801. It worked by threading a series of interlaced punched cards through the machine with each row of holes in the cards corresponding to a row in a textile design. The Jacquard loom influenced the future development of computer technology and its attachment to the Leavers net making machine opened the ability to recreate countless varieties of formerly handmade lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made, floral and leaf decorationchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Ivory silk crepe and lace bodice, 1912
This bodice was part of the wedding outfit worn by Grace Burland at her marriage to John Henty Hindson in 1912. Her husband's grandfather, Francis Henty, was the youngest son of Thomas Henty, who with his family, their retainers and property moved to the Australian colonies between 1829 and 1832. In 1834, Francis’ older brother, Edward, sailed from Launceston in Van Diemen’s Land to what was to become Portland in the western part of Port Phillip District [Victoria]. Francis, together with the first flock of Merino sheep [in Victoria], followed some months later. The first and second generations of the Henty family established vast pastoral properties in the Western part of the Port Phillip District. Francis Henty managed ‘Merino Downs’ near Casterton, while also living in his retirement at ‘Field Place' in Kew.The Henty Collection of nineteenth and twentieth century clothing, including outerwear and underwear, was collected, stored and exhibited over time by female family members descended from Francis and Mary Ann Henty. During the twentieth century, items from the collection were modelled in two fashion parades by various descendants [1937, 1959]. The items in the collection are historically and aesthetically significant, with provenance provided by oral and written tradition within or held by the family. A number of the items in the collection are very rare survivors, and provide researchers with the evidence needed to reconstruct the lives of notable women in the Port Phillip District [later Victoria] during the nineteenth and early twentieth century.Silk crepe wedding bodice decorated with Mechlin lace, pearls and jet, which was worn by Grace Burland at her marriage to John Henty Hindson in 1912. A report in Punch [12 September 1912] described her outfit as “... white crepe de chene finished with Mechlin lace and pearl trimming; also pearl crescent brooch (gift of the bridegroom' s mother).” Mechlin lace or Point de Malines is an old bobbin lace, one of the best-known Flemish laces, originally produced in Mechelen, Belgium. Used for women's clothing, it was popular until the first decade of the twentieth century. The high silk net neckline is finished with pearls. These are repeated on the loose fitted diagonal ornamentation on the front and back which is finished with pearl and jet beading. Similar ornamentation finishes the elbow length sleeves. [The wedding skirt is not part of the donation]. wedding dresses, women's clothing, fashion -- 1910s, bodices, grace burland -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Bolt Cutter, 1878
Cyrus Chambers was a self-described mechanic who started out winding bobbins in his father's woollen mill and went on to invent machines that changed their industries. Cyrus Chambers came from Quaker parents the ninth of thirteen siblings, he once said a year before his death. “I believe I have succeeded because, first, I was industrious; second, because I made a study of the subject that was before me.” At age 7, Chambers went to work in his father’s mill. His job was to monitor bobbins—wooden spindles around which thread was wound and to remove and replace them as they became full. "There was no child labour law at that time," he later recalled. Chambers loved machinery and always regarded himself as a mechanic rather than an inventor. At age 16, Chambers was sent to learn dentistry with an older brother, (Edwin) who was already in the field and willing to take him on as an apprentice. Chambers was talented at working with small parts. He used his brother's dental instruments to build a miniature high-pressure steam engine of silver. It ran at 3,000 revolutions per minute and weighed less than a half-ounce. At that time it was the smallest engine that had ever been constructed. The engine was displayed at the 1876 Centennial and is now in a permanent collection at the Franklin Institute USA. Chambers major invention was the paper folding machine and came from reading that school teachers made less than the young girls who were employed to fold book pages as they came off the press. He told friends that his first efforts were to make the machine that would fold newspapers after demonstrating his device he met with Horace Greeley of the New York Tribune who advised Chambers would never invent the machine that would be able to fold his newspaper or books. In less than a year Chambers had built a full-size machine capable of folding large newspapers and books and was installed at J B Lippincott & Co folding pages for the "Comly Speller" this machine ran successfully for twenty-five years until the printing works burnt down. Chambers then went into partnership with a brother and they established the firm "Chambers, Brother & Co" at a plant in Philadelphia. It was also observed in 1910 and a fact that there was not a periodical or newspaper printed or recently published book that had not gone through one of Chambers inventions. Chambers went on to produce many mechanical inventions and improvements to existing tools and machinery most notable was his invention for the machine that would make clay bricks. This machine made forty bricks per hour and by the end of Chambers life after many improvements, it could make more than four hundred. Although there were a large number of bold cutters made of this patent at Cyrus Chamber’s foundry in Philadelphia, the item is associated with a notable American inventor of the nineteenth century. This particular patent for a bolt and rivet cutter won Chambers the prestigious Elliott Cresson Medal. This cutter is just one of the many inventions and mechanical improvements that Cyrus Chambers made during his lifetime, contributing to the ongoing development of mechanical improvements that were occurring in American industry of the time and therefore a notable addition to the Flagstaff collection.Cast iron bolt cutter with removable tempered steel cutter. Chambers New No. 2.Raised embossed lettering on cast body of cutter "New No 2" on one side, "Chambers Bros & Co" on the other sideflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, cyrus chambers, bolt cutter, paper folding machine, brick making machine, elliot cresson, elliot cresson medal, franklin institute, gold medal, rivet cutter -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This piece is amachine made copy of Valenciennes bobbin lace with many-legged spiders and a simple oval and circle pattern. Again it is worth noting that hand-made Valenciennes lace was very costly and time consuming (e.g., a pair of ruffles valued at £160 would take the lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to complete) therefore the advent of machine made copies was welcomed although the Barmen made lace was more expensive that that made on the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lacejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a machine made copy of a Brussels lace applique or Brussels Point border which has most likely been cut from a larger piece, perhaps a wedding veil or a net for a baby’s cradle. There are two main types under the Brussels lace heading, one is Brussels Pillow lace which is a bobbin lace and the other is Brussels Point lace which is needle run. Belgium or Flanders was one of the premium lace making centres in Europe for two reasons, one that the flax grown in the region was of a very high quality and secondly the highly skilled lace workers living in the area. The flax harvest and linen production was jealously guarded and along with neighbouring Holland which in the 16th century was joined to Belgium as Spanish Netherlands, there were many flat areas to lay out the linen for bleaching in the sun. The flax was spun into the finest linen thread in rooms kept damp to prevent the thread from becoming too brittle and the one ray of sunlight allowed was directed onto the thread. The quality of the linen made Brussels lace extremely popular for centuries and it kept pace with the changing fashions of Europe. Not all of the lace labelled as ‘Brussels’ comes from that area, the name has been given as a type rather than a source and there are many types of lace under that name. Because of the quality and the standard of the linen used, Belgian lace was one of the last types of lace to be imitated in the 19th century by mass production machinery. Because of the close chain stitch evident in this piece, a Cornelly machine may have been used to embroider this design onto machine made net.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim, with finely worked sprays of flowers intertwined with foliage and abstracted branches.Package with note "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - LACE MAKER
Includes; .1 Lace Maker .2 3 x samples of lace .3.Bill of Sale dated 7 March 1916 payment received with thanks C.H Coombe .4 Price list of Torchon Lace Co.229 Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia .5The Torchon Lace Making Booklet, 12th edition, copyright 1904 .6 Letter (undated) offering The complete lacemaking outfit .7 Document with customer reviews .8 Booklet "The Torchon Lace Maker (illustrated) Copy right 1904 All rights Reserved .9 30 x cardboard lace making patterns No. 20 Torchon Edging, Diamond Point Edging, Net Ground, 2 x Round Point Edging, Edging No. 11, Diamond Antique Edging, Jewel Insertion, Smyrna Edging, Rose Ground, Edging No. 24, Insertion No. 22, No.5 Twisted Hole Ground with "Spider". Spider insertion, Copenhagen Lace, Plain Hole Ground, Ornamental Ground Pin Check, Block Lace, Spider Lace, No. 18 Medici Lace, ZigZag Lace, Wide Antique Lace, Diamond Antique Edging, Block Lace, Jewel Insertion, Edging No. 24, Spider Lace, Zig-Zag Lace, Medici Lace, No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn into the centre of the doyley. .12 Large wooden cotton reel with cream coloured lacemaking thread .1 White sticker, "63" printed in black placed on Lace Maker .12 Eagley imprinted into one end of the reellace making machine, christina mckenzie lawrence -
National Wool Museum
Instrument - Scales, 1880-1898
At the time of sale, the last of the Hirst family to work in the mill located in Geelong gave Donald (donor Bruce's father) Doherty a set of scales that had been used by several generations of Hirsts and adapted by them over time for specific use in their mill. These Scales were saved from waste and being thrown away at the time of sale to remain in use in the industry in the hands of someone who knew how to use them. The scales were used in calculating the weight of cloth and simultaneously calculating the amount of yarn required to weave it following the instructions printed within the box. The box bears the signatures of two Hirst family members, one being Lewis Hirst dated at 1898. The original brass pole has been replaced with a replica metal somewhere throughout the years after the brass pole broke through use. Hirst was brought by McKendrick in the 1960s and these scales sat for 12 months as part of the 12 month "cooling off" period. The scales were then handed to Donald rather than being disposed of.Scales used for weighing and calculating weight and thread count of textile samples. Originated from Godfrey Hirst Mills in Geelong. Writing describes how to utilise scales. Scales are made from brass, pole for holding scales once brass now replaced with metal pole. Scales held inside wooden box with black text in ink depicting use of scales on paper located inside and outside of box.Outside of box. Wording: APPARTUS for TESTING the WEIGHT per YARD of CLOTHS & COUNT of YARN from a small SAMPLE. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Indispensable to Manufactures, Merchants & handling Woollen, Worsted, Cotton, Linen, Jute, Hemp, Flannel, Felt, Army, Navy, Police, Railway, Sail & other Cloths -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- USED IN GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The apparatus consists of Scales, Weights, 1, 2 & 4 sq. inch Cutting Templates & Book of Tables --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------By weighing a small Sample the accurate Weight in Ounces of a yard of Cloth any width from 18 to 64 inches, the Weight per Square Metre in Grams, the Counts* of Warp and Weft, and the approximate length of full & short ends of pieces of fabrics, [without unrolling and measuring for stocktaking & other purposes] can be ascertained without any Calculation --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Price in United Kingdom, 25s., Carriage Paid. Price to Canada & U.S.A. $6.75 do. H. Lord. 10, And Place, Bradford, England. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*When ordering, state on what system you base your YARN COUNTS. Inside of box. Wording: DIRECTIONS FOR USE --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------TESTING WEIGHT OF CLOTHS. Place sample to be tested on a piece of cardboard, put a Cutting Template on it, cut card and cloth round template with scissors and weigh it according to instructions given in Book of Tables. TESTING FOR YARN COUNTS. Cut out 1 square inch of cloth, draw out wrap or weft threads, according to which is being tested, and the number of inches so drawn, that balance respective weight is the approximate Count. The same rule holds good when number of inches are drawn from a bobbin. In testing from the cloth, allowance has to be made for loss or gain in the process of manufacture. Weight marked C is for Cotton Counts " " W " " Worsted " " " WS " " Woollen Skeins " " L " " Linen Counts. The weights for testing samples of cloth are 20, 10, 10, 5, 3, 2, 1, grains in brass & '5, '3, '2, '1 [tenths of a grain] in aluminium. Inside of box. Signtures, handwritten: Bottom right: Lewis Hirst !898 Top Left (Smudge ?) W Hirst !935godfrey hirst, hirst family, textile design, textile creation -
Federation University Historical Collection
Book, Old Lace: A handbook for Collectors, 1908
Brown hard covered book was an account of the different styles of lace, their history, characteristics and Manufacture. Library cards from the Ballarat Technical Art School are still in place in the back of the book.ballarat technical art school library, library catalogue cards and date stamps, lace, cutwork, punto in aria, italian bobbin lace, venetian needlepoint, burano lace, milanese lace, cretan lace, flanders lace, belgian lace, mechlin lace, antwerp lace, valenciennes lace, dutch lace, alencon lace, argentan lace, lille lace, arras lace, chantilly lace, english needlepoint, english bobbin lace, irish laces, blondes, library cards, library date stamp, bookplate -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Handloom and Bobbin
Wooden with metal plateswooden, handloom, weaving -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Hand Loom and Bobbin
hand loom, weaving -
Bright & District Historical Society operating the Bright Museum
Hand Loom and Bobbin
handloom, weaving -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Machine or Bobbin lace, 1900-2000
Use: Domestic. FashionMachine lace insertion