Made by internee at Camp 3, TaturaTin soup container (mug like) with double wire like handles on one sidemut, tin, beck h, camp 3, tatura, ww2 camp 3, domestic, food, drink, consumption

Terracotta drinking vessel with cork stopper, entirely surrounded by wickerwork. One handle.No visible markingsdomestic items, food and drink consumption, vessel, drink, wickerwork, terracotta jar

2 litre enamel-coated tea pot grey speckled with blue. Low-set spout with curved handle. Lid with squared handle.No visible markingsdomestic items, food & drink consumption, tea pot, enamel, drink, kitchen

Pressed, embossed sheet steel tin, with overhanging top. Dome on top for beans, hinged, with curved handle and wooden knob. Wooden drawer set into bottom, removable, sheet metal and sign of handle missing. Decorative embossing on each side.L 4' embossed on basedomestic items, food and drink preparation, coffee, grinder, beans, kitchen, drink, pressed sheet steel, embossed

Off-white tea cup, swelling in upper half. Handle shaped to fit two fingers. Decoration is willow, in blue ink and is symmetrical on both sides of the cup. No saucer.EIT LTD ENGLAND' imprinted on base.domestic items, food & drink consumption, tea, cup, willow, blue and white, pattern, drink, china, eit ltd.

Object made and used by internees in Camp 3 TaturaSmall Wooden egg cup, hand turnedtatura, egg cup, decker, kazenwadel, handcrafts, woodturning, domestic, items, food, drink, consumption

made and used in camp 3 Tatura during WW2Fawn coloured, hand turned wooden egg cup exterior varnishedegg cup, wood, camp 3, tatura, glenk, handcrafts, woodcarving, domestic, items, food, drink, consumption

made in Camp 3 by internees with wood from wood heapOrnate carved edged wooden rectangular tray.TATURA tray, camp 3, wood, tatura, o'toole, ivy, domestic, trays, food, drink, consumption, handcrafts, carving

Wooden and metal corkscrew with pick on end. Wooden handle is dark in colour and has been carved to a tusk-like shape, Corkscrew is attached to bottom while pick blade is on the front of the handle.No visible markingsdomestic items, food preparation, corkscrew, bottle opener, alcohol, wine, pick, screw, wood, bone, beverage, drink, liquid, opener.

The fruit juice or lemon squeezer is a small kitchen utensil designed to extract juice from lemons or other citrus fruit such as oranges, grapefruit, or lime. It is designed to separate and crush the pulp of the fruit in a way that is easy to operate. Lemon squeezers can be made from any solid, acid-resistant material, such as plastic, glass, metal (usually aluminum) or ceramic. The oldest known lemon squeezers were found in Kütahya, Turkey and date to the first quarter of the 18th century. These ceramic presses are in the traditional style of Turkish pottery of the 18th century and have a superficial resemblance to today's press equipment with cones, though they are designed differently. These examples were individually made, and specially designed for making the then popular citrus drink sorbet. Lemons are not native to northern Turkey, though during the 17th and 18th centuries they were imported in bulk to Constantinople.The fruit juice press is an example of early 20th century kitchen utensils and is not associated with an historical event, person or place, provenance is unable to be determined at this time and the item is believed to have been made around 1900. This item is currently being used in Flagstaffs Hill village display and regarded as significant as it demonstrates domestic kitchen utensils used around the turn of the 19th century and today is a collectable item. Vintage lemon/citrus fruits squeezer cast iron juicer with two sections hinged together strainer on one section has holes for letting liquid escape.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, food press, food preparation, fruit juice press, kitchen utensil

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

A rolling pin is a simple tool used to flatten dough. The first civilisation known to have used the rolling pin was the Etruscans. Their advanced farming ability, along with a tendency to cultivate many plants and animals never before used as food and turn them into sophisticated recipes, were passed to invading Greeks, Romans, and Western Europeans. Thanks to the Etruscans, these cultures are associated with gourmet cooking. To prepare their inventive foods, the Etruscans also developed a wide range of cooking tools, including the rolling pin. Although written recipes did not exist until the fourth century B.C., the Etruscans documented their love of food and its preparation in murals, on vases, and on the walls of their tombs. Cooking wares are displayed with pride; rolling pins appear to have been used first to thin-roll pasta that was shaped with cutting wheels. They also used rolling pins to make bread (which they called puls) from the large number of grains they grew. Natives of the Americas used more primitive bread-making tools that are favoured and unchanged in many villages. Chefs who try to use genuine methods to preserve recipes are also interested in both materials and tools. Hands are used as "rolling pins" for flattening dough against a surface, but also for tossing soft dough between the cook's two hands until it enlarges and thins by handling and gravity. Tortillas are probably the most familiar bread made this way. Over the centuries, rolling pins have been made of many different materials, including long cylinders of baked clay, smooth branches with the bark removed, and glass bottles. As the development of breads and pastries spread from Southern to Western and Northern Europe, wood from local forests was cut and finished for use as rolling pins. The French perfected the solid hardwood pin with tapered ends to roll pastry that is thick in the middle; its weight makes rolling easier. The French also use marble rolling pins for buttery dough worked on a marble slab. Glass is still popular; in Italy, full wine bottles that have been chilled make ideal rolling pins because they are heavy and cool the dough. Countries known for their ceramics make porcelain rolling pins with beautiful decorations painted on the rolling surface; their hollow centres can be filled with cold water (the same principle as the wine bottle), and cork or plastic stoppers cap the ends. Designs for most rolling pins follow long-established practices, although some unusual styles and materials are made and used. Within the family of wooden rolling pins, long and short versions are made as well as those that are solid cylinders (one-piece rolling pins) instead of the familiar style with handles. Very short pins called mini rolling pins make use of short lengths of wood and are useful for one-handed rolling and popular with children and collectors. Mini pins ranging from 5 to 7 in (12.7-17.8 cm) in length are called texturing tools and are produced to create steam holes and decorations in pastry and pie crusts; crafters also use them to imprint clay for art projects. These mini pins are made of hardwoods (usually maple) or plastic. Wood handles are supplied for both wood and plastic tools, however. Blown glass rolling pins are made with straight walls and are solid or hollow. Ceramic rolling pins are also produced in hollow form, and glass and ceramic models can be filled with water and plugged with stoppers. Tapered glass rolling pins with stoppers were made for many centuries when salt imports and exports were prohibited or heavily taxed. The rolling pin containers disguised the true contents. The straight-sided cylinder is a more recent development, although tapered glass pins are still common craft projects made by cutting two wine bottles in half and sealing the two ends together so that the necks serve as handles at each end.Tiny rolling pins are also twisted into shape using formed wire. The pins will not flatten and smooth pastry, and the handles do not turn. The metal pins are popular as kitchen decorations and also to hang pots, pans, and potholders. https://www.encyclopedia.com/sports-and-everyday-life/food-and-drink/food-and-cooking/rolling-pinThe use of the rolling pin to make thin pastry or pasta.Wooden rolling pin with some damage on cylinder section.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, rolling pin, cooking, pastry

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

During the mid-to-late 19th century, migrants from Greece and Arabia, as well as from many other countries, landed in Australia, contributing to the rich and diverse culture of Australia. This coffee pot is an example of that culture. In Greece and Arabia, and later in Lebanon, traditional coffee is prepared in a long-handled coffee pot called a "rakwe". The coffee is poured directly from the rakwe into a small cup usually adorned with a decorative pattern called a Finjan. A coffee maker like this multi-purpose pot is used for brewing tea, melting butter, boiling water, and cooking sauces and soups.This coffee pot is an example of kitchen equipment used for both food and beverage preparation. Coffee pots of similar design are still available from stores today.Lebanese coffee pot; a long-handled copper pot, cylindrical with a concave middle, slightly flared base and a flared lip. It was made in Lebanon and includes a stamped inscription.Stamped: "5"warrnambool, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, coffee rakwe, rakwe, coffee pot, coffee maker, arabic, turkish, laeanese, beverage, multi-purpose pot, coffee brewing, cooking, drinking, kitchen equipment

A tea strainer is a type of strainer that is placed over or in a teacup to catch tea leaves. When tea is brewed in the traditional manner in a teapot, the tea leaves are not contained in teabags, but rather are freely suspended in the water. As the leaves themselves may be distasteful, it is usual to filter them out with a tea strainer. Strainers usually fit into the top of the cup to catch the leaves as the tea is poured. Some deeper tea strainers can also be used to brew single cups of tea, much as teabags or brewing baskets are used - the strainer full of leaves is set in a cup to brew the tea, and then removed, along with the spent tea leaves, when the tea is ready to drink. By using a tea strainer in this way, the same leaves can be used to brew multiple cups. Tea strainer use declined in the 20th century with mass production of the tea bag, but is still preferred among connoisseurs who claim that keeping the leaves packed in a bag, rather than freely circulating, inhibits diffusion. Many assert that inferior ingredients, namely dust quality tea, are often used in tea bags. Tea strainers are usually either sterling silver, stainless steel, or china. Strainers often come in a set, with the strainer part and a small saucer for it to sit in between cups. Tea strainers in themselves have often been turned into artistic masterpieces of the silver- and goldsmith's craft, as well as rarer specimens of fine porcelain. Brewing baskets (or infusing baskets) resemble tea strainers, but are more typically put in the top of a teapot to contain the tea leaves during brewing. There is no definitive boundary between a brewing basket and a tea strainer, and the same tool might be used for both purposes. Tea strainers are also used by patients trying to pass a kidney stone. The patient urinates through the strainer, thereby ensuring that, if a stone is passed, it will be caught for evaluation and diagnosis. Source: www.wikipedia.net This item has historical significance in the evolution of Tea drinking.The Strainer being needed if a cup of tea was to be poured without tea leaves being present in the tea liquid.As Tea bags have been introduced into everyday life tea strainers are an item of the past. This particular tea strainer was an item for everyday useage.White enamel tea strainer, round in shape with flange edges, 7 small circle areas of perforations in the concave area of the utensil, a small perforated handle (same material) at one outer area of the item.domestic, kitchen, food, preparation, white, enamel, tea, strainer, beverage, perforated, utensil, round, flanges, leaves

This tin once contained McKenzie’s baking powder, a cooking ingredient. It was donated with other similar tins that were used by the donor’s mother who was married in 1932. It those times in Australia all manner of household items, including food and drink, were sold by hawkers (salesmen) who travelled from door to door in both suburban and rural areas. The donor remembered the bicarb soda tin on her mother’s pantry shelf. The McKenzie’s Baking Powder label adds the information that the ingredients were “Prepared with Aerophos, Regd. Trade Mark, the finest raising ingredient. A product of Albright & Wilson, Australia Pty. Ltd.” It also says that it “Excels all others in use”. The Australian family business, McKenzie’s Foods, began in Melbourne in 1852 and continues today, now run be the fifth generation of descendants from the original owners. Its baking and cookery products are well recognised by Australians. This tin originates in the early 1900s from an Australian company that is now managed by fifth generation descendants of the original family after its inception in 1852. The tin increases in significance for its use as a recognised object found in many Australian kitchens since early days. It gives a snapshot into domestic life and social norms of the pre and post war period in Melbourne The tin is significant for its association with a local family in the 1930s for the preparation of family meals. Tin container, cylindrical, with cream paper label with gold highlights, motif and text. Used for selling McKenzie’s Excelsior baking powder. Container has push-on lid. Quantity of 1/2 LB. NETT. Made in Australia by Jas. F. McKenzie & Co. Pty Ltd. Text includes “JAS. F. McKENZIE & CO. PTY. LTD. / AUSTRALIA“ “McKENZIE’S EXCELSIOR / BAKING POWDER”. Motif: man’s portrait within oval frame with wheat sheaf border, placed below figures of sun, moon and stars. Information and instructions. flagstaff hill asset, baking powder tin, container, flagstaff hill museum, kitchen item, cookery, baking, grocery, mckenzie, rising agent, food container, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, tin, cooking ingredient, baking powder, mckenqie

This tin once contained Rawleigh's Allspice, a cooking ingredient. It was donated with other similar tins that were used by the donor’s mother who was married in 1932. It those times in Australia all manner of household items, including food and drink, were sold by hawkers (salesmen) who travelled from door to door in both suburban and rural areas. The donor remembered the tin on her mother’s pantry shelf. The Rawleigh Nutmegs label stated “Selected whole nutmegs not ground but granulated to preserve full strength and flavour.” The company had operated in Melbourne, Australia, and Wellington, New Zealand. W.T. Rawleigh & Co. was established by William Rawleigh in America in 1889 and later expanded into Australia. The company made a variety of household products in a factory in Collins Place, Melbourne, between 1930 and 1935. It specialised in medicines and remedies, food additives, cleaning products and toiletries. The company in Melbourne expanded into their factory in Dawson Street, Brunswick, in the mid-1930s. Independent salesmen, often referred to as ‘The Rawleigh’s man’, sold Rawleigh products door-to-door between the wars and after the Second World War in the Melbourne suburbs. Rayleigh’s products are still produced today. The tin is significant for its association with W.T Rawleigh, one of Melbourne’s strong growing manufacturers in period particularly between the World Wars. Rawleigh’s was, and still is, well known for its household and cleaning products, medicines, food additives and toiletries. The tin increases in significance for its use as a recognised object found in many Australian kitchens since early days. It gives a snapshot into domestic life and social norms of the pre and post war period in Melbourne The tin is significant for its association with a local family in the 1930s for the preparation of family meals. Rawleigh's rectangular Allspice spice tin, green, with directions for use on back and sides of container.Text “Rawleigh’s ALLSPICE” “The W.T. RAWLEIGH Co. Ltd.” “MELGOURNE / AUSTRALIA” “WELLINGTON / NEW ZEALAND” Motif: Man’s portrait in a circle. Other text includes information about spices.flagstaff hill museum, container, spice container, rawleigh company, tin container, kitchen item, tin, cooking ingredient, food container, grocery, allspice, rawleigh co.

Dry foods such as oats were packaged in cloth bags from the late 19th century to the mid 20th century. Parsons' Brothers and Company were involved in packaging a variety of produce for the Australian market including oatmeal for porridge.The oat bags provide a snapshot of a well-known Australian food company and how the bags were used to advertise other items available from the business.A set of two Oatmeal Bags from the Parsons' company. Each bag is made from calico with ornate writing and images on the front that relate to the product and company. The back of each bag is used to advertise a different product from the company – Saline Powder (8649.1) and Mustard (8649.2).Front (both): 7-lbs. Net, PARSONS', TRADE MARK, THE ORIGINAL FLAKED OATMEAL, DELICIOUS PORRIDGE, WITH ONLY TEN MINUTES BOILING, PARSONS BROS & COY., PROPY. LTD., MELBOURNE Back 8649.1 : TRY Parsons', PARSONS' SALINE POWDER, NET ? LB, SALINE POWDER, A COOL, REFRESHING AND HEALTHFUL DRINK Back 8649.2 : UNSURPASSED in Quality and Price, PARSONS' MUSTARD, (further writing is faded)flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, warrnambool, calico, domestic object, textile, food storage, parsons' bros, oatmeal, porridge

This tin once contained Rayleigh's Nutmegs, a cooking ingredient. It was donated with other similar tins that were used by the donor’s mother who was married in 1932. It those times in Australia all manner of household items, including food and drink, were sold by hawkers (salesmen) who travelled from door to door in both suburban and rural areas. The donor remembered the tin on her mother’s pantry shelf. The Rawleigh Nutmegs label stated “Selected whole nutmegs not ground but granulated to preserve full strength and flavour.” The company had operated in Melbourne, Australia, and Wellington, New Zealand. W.T. Rawleigh & Co. was established by William Rawleigh in America in 1889 and later expanded into Australia. The company made a variety of household products in a factory in Collins Place, Melbourne, between 1930 and 1935. It specialised in medicines and remedies, food additives, cleaning products and toiletries. The company in Melbourne expanded into their factory in Dawson Street, Brunswick, in the mid-1930s. Independent salesmen, often referred to as ‘The Rawleigh’s man’, sold Rawleigh products door-to-door between the wars and after the Second World War in the Melbourne suburbs. Rayleigh’s products are still produced today. The tin is significant for its association with W.T Rawleigh, one of Melbourne’s strong growing manufacturers in period particularly between the World Wars. Rawleigh’s was, and still is, well known for its household and cleaning products, medicines, food additives and toiletries. The tin increases in significance for its use as a recognised object found in many Australian kitchens since early days. It gives a snapshot into domestic life and social norms of the pre and post war period in Melbourne The tin is significant for its association with a local family in the 1930s for the preparation of family meals. Rawleigh spice tin, rectangular, tall, used for storing Rawleigh's nutmeg. Tin has a flip-top lid, is coloured gold and comes with directions for use on front, back and sides of container.Text includes “W.T. RAWLEIGH Co. Ltd.”, “MELBOURNE / AUSTRALIA”, WELLINGTON / NEW ZEALAND” “Rawleigh’s / NUTMEGS” Motif: man’s portrait in a circle. Other text includes information about spices.tin container, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, food container, tin, kitchen item, container, cooking ingredient, grocery, spice container, nutmeg, rawleigh co.

This tin once contained McKenzie’s baking powder, a cooking ingredient. It was donated with other similar tins that were used by the donor’s mother who was married in 1932. It those times in Australia all manner of household items, including food and drink, were sold by hawkers (salesmen) who travelled from door to door in both suburban and rural areas. The donor remembered the bicarb soda tin on her mother’s pantry shelf. The McKenzie’s Baking Powder label adds the information that the ingredients were “Prepared with Aerophos, Regd. Trade Mark, the finest raising ingredient. A product of Albright & Wilson, Australia Pty. Ltd.” It also says that it “Excels all others in use”. The company began in Melbourne in 1852 and continues today, now run be the fifth generation of descendants from the original owners. This tin originates in the early 1900s from an Australian company that is now managed by fifth generation descendants of the original family after its inception in 1852. The tin increases in significance for its use as a recognised object found in many Australian kitchens since early days. It gives a snapshot into domestic life and social norms of the pre and post war period in Melbourne The tin is significant for its association with a local family in the 1930s for the preparation of family meals. Tin container, cylindrical, with cream and green paper label with gold highlights, motif and text. Used for selling McKenzie’s Excelsior baking powder. Container has push-on lid. Quantity of 1LB. NET. Made in Australia by McKenzie Ltd.Text includes “CLIFFORD LOVE, McKENZIE PTY. LTD.” “McKENZIE’S EXCELSIOR / BAKING POWDER”. Motif: man’s portrait within oval frame with wheat sheaf border, placed below figures of sun, moon and stars. Information and instructions. flagstaff hill asset, baking powder tin, container, flagstaff hill museum, kitchen item, cooking ingredients, flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, tin, cooking ingredient, food container, grocery, cookery, rising agent, baking powder, mckenzie, mckenzie foods

This set of kitchen dry food canisters is made of metal; each container has a different height, width and capacity. The rolled thin metal has created a strong, round design with decorative rings on the circumference. The base and close-fitting lid protect the contents from vermin and most insects, and the handle on top aids in the removal of the lid. Metal containers like these are reusable and can be re-purposed, which is advantageous when living in regional or rural areas. The type of manufacture indicates that the set was made in the late 19th to early 20th century. Gradually, colourful and attractive plastic kitchenware began to replace metalware. One of the canisters is labelled 'coffee'; coffee plants and seeds were transported from Brazil into Australia in 1788 when the First Fleet arrived although their growth was unsuccessful. However, by the 1920s, a tenth of the Australian population was drinking readily stored coffee. Large quantities of harvested grains such as maize, wheat and barley were protected from pests by being stored in airy buildings, often raised from the ground. This was an age-old practice used by civilizations such as the ancient Egyptians and early Hebrews. Smaller quantities of food for short-term use in the homes were stored in woven baskets or clay pots.This set of kitchen food containers is an example of colonial food storage used in a domestic setting to store and preserve dry ingredients. These canisters give a snapshot of early domestic life in Australia. Canister set; four cylindrical cream coloured metal canisters with domed lids that have lift-up handles on top. They are made from rolled metal and the bases and lids have a side seam. Each canister is a different size and displays a label for different contents. The adhesive labels are vertical, and a gold colour with black vertical text. The cream paint has brush strokes and small areas have exposed green paint under the cream. The insides of the bases are painted dark grey but the lids have no paint underneath. The empty canisters can fit one inside the other. Labels, in descending order: "FLOUR" "RICE" "SAGO" "COFFEE"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, canister set, kitchen storage, food storage, metal canisters, dry food storage, food packaging, kitchen container, vintage, flour, rice, sago, coffee, kitchenalia, late 19th to early 20th centuries, nesting canisters

Displayed in History House (Cabinet, South wall)Blue glass with gold and white hand-painted floral pattern.domestic, drinking, food and drink

A cork screw with a hand-carved handle. It has a metal screw lever. The handle appears to have come from a domestic tool which has been hollowed out for the metal screw.corkscrew domestic food-drink