New York: Reporter Publications, 1953-1983. Hardcover. A broken run of this remarkable publishing venture, providing insight into the fashion of the day, fabric swatches, history of textile design, interviews with designers, etc.18 unique magazines containing multiple years. An invaluable reference tool for researching American lifestyle, tastes, fashion, style and fabrics as they evolved from the end of World War II to the dawn of feminism. With real vintage fabric swatches in each issue. Each issue is profusely illustrated with color photography and fashion illustration, as well as with beautifully designed covers by important artists. Such design magazines were utilised by Australian designers to help inspiration for the upcoming season's fashion. Such magazines were not cheap, compared to an international business trip however, they are seen as affordable to the point of being invaluable. 18 unique magazines from American Fabrics. First issue is from 1948 with latest from 1968. Colourful external covers with internal pages containing a mixture of black & white pages, colour pages and fabric swatches. Images of front and back cover are visible within media as well as contents of all 18 copies, particular articles of interest are obtainable by contacting the National Wool Museumtextile design, 1940s-1960s

Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Strip of knitted fabric samples showing the nine wool colour options for the boys line of Robert Blake/Kathryn knitwear in the winter season of 1980. Label printed in pale blue paper lists season and colour names and is attached to sample strip with two metal staplesBOYS WOOL WINTER 1980 COLOR SWATCH RED BURGUNDY BROWN RYE PEBBLE OYSTER NAVY BLUE SHADOW DENIM GRANITE GREYfabric sample, textile sample, fabric swatch, textile swatch, fashion textile production, textile manufacturing

Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Strip of knitted fabric samples showing the nine wool colour options for Kathryn knitwear for the winter season of 1980. Label printed in pale blue paper lists season and colour names and is attached to sample strip with two metal staplesKATHRYN WOOL WINTER 1980 COLOUR SWATCH RED BROWN RUST DEEP RED GREEN NAVY BLUE SHADOW SKY BLUE MAGNOLIAfabric sample, textile sample, fabric swatch, textile swatch, fashion textile production, textile manufacturing

Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Strip of knitted fabric samples showing the 14 wool colour options for the ladies' line of Kathryn knitwear for the winter season of 1980. Label printed in pale blue paper lists season and colour names and is attached to sample strip with two metal staplesLADIES WOOL COLOR SWATCH WINTER 1980 RED BLACK MAGNOLIA OYSTER SILVER BLUE SHADOW NAVY TEAL GREEN BRACKEN RYE BROWN BURGUNDY DEEP REDfabric sample, textile sample, fabric swatch, textile swatch, fashion textile production, textile manufacturing

Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Kathryn Knitwear Colour swatch booklet from 1961. Booklet has navy text printed on a grey background, and opens to reveal two vertical swatch cards made of white card, one on each side of the fold line. Swatch cards have headings printed in capitals in red ink denoting the fibre and series of the below samples. Each swatch card has 15 samples of yarn wrapped around it, and each shade labelled in black ink in capital letters. There is an additional knitted swatch stapled to the top right corner labelled ‘Arctic White’.[Obverse] Robert Blake Pty. Ltd. KATHRYN Shades 1961 [Internal] KATHRYN Shades 1961 ARCTIC WHITE [Left side] WOOL Standard Shades WHITE PINK LEMON BLUE LIPSTICK EMERALD ROSE PINK AQUA ROYAL RED CELTIC TAN KASHA BROWN GREY [Right side] WOOL Fashion Shades MINT WILD RICE GERANIUM PINK LONDON BLUE TREE FERN ANCIENT GOLD ORLON WHITE PINK LEMON BLUE OATMEAL EUCALYPTUS CABER TAN YACHT BLUE REDfabric sample, textile sample, fabric swatch, textile swatch, fashion textile production, textile manufacturing

This cape may have belonged to RAN Telegraphist Norma Ashton Kilfoyle, however the date of her service is not consistent with the style of the article (which has buttons which suggest this cape was issued post 1952 during the reign of Queen Elizabeth II). It is possible, though not confirmed, that this cape was worn by Norma Kilfoyle in a later role after the Second World War.Black thigh-length nurses cape with red satin lining. Fastened along centre with four gold buttons and one press stud at chin (second button from the top is missing). Two slits at waist height on both left and right allow arms through from the interior to the front. Embroidered manufacturer’s label on interior at base of neck, below which there is an ink inscription. Sewn in fabric swatch on interior right.Handwritten inscription reads “KILFOYLE”. Manufacturer’s label reads “[Australian coat of arms]/A Quality Garment/BY/Australian Government Clothing Factory”. Interior sewn in label reads “33643/Kilfoyle/Cloak F Bara/[indiscernible characters]”. Buttons read “[Queen Elizabeth crown over the Navy anchor]/AUSTRALIA” and on interior “STOKES/MELB”cape, second world war, world war two, world war ii, navy, royal australian navy, ran, women, telegraph, communications

This piece of fabric, known Fälter (butterfly), was designed by Mathilda Flögl (1893-1958), who worked in the textile department of the Wiener Werkstätte in Vienna. It is a remnant of the fabric that was used to make a bedspread for Karl and Slawa’s bed in their Vienna apartment where it lay decoratively over a gold brocade eiderdown. The purchase demonstrated Slawa’s interest in and knowledge of modern design and her commitment to the idea of enriching everyday life with beautiful objects, a principal of the Viennese Secession. Following the Duldigs removal from Vienna, the original bedspread and remnant were safeguarded and preserved by Slawa’s sister, Rella, in the basement of her Paris apartment. In 1948 the bedspread and this remnant were sent to Australia. The bedspread was a much-loved item but deteriorated over the years. In 1955 it was made into curtains, which are held in the Duldig Studio Collection. The Photographs of the bedspread in its original location are also held in the collection. The remnant is in pristine condition. The Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna Workshop) was a guild of designers and craftsmen that was founded by the architect Josef Hoffman (1879-1956) and the designer Koloman Moser (1868-1918). The firm manufactured a range of interior furnishings between 1903 and 1932. The textile department opened in 1900, and produced about 1,800 designs, mainly for printed fabrics for furnishings and apparel. The designs were characterised by simplified forms and vivid colours, and inspired by Eastern European peasant art and geometric motifs in contemporary painting. The workshop had a profound impact of European art and design, and its work is still celebrated today. Mathilde Flögl was born in the Czech Republic in 1893, and studied at the Kunstgerwerbeschule in Vienna. In 1916 she began working at the Weiner Werkstätte, and where she designed more than 120 textile patterns. This fabric Fälter or Butterfly was designed in 1924. The butterfly was a favourite motif of Flögl. In this design she plays with a variety of whimsical abstractions and arrangement of both the butterfly and the snail on a background of abstract colour stripes and blocks. Ann Carew 2016The fabric is of great aesthetic interest as an example of the work of the Viennese workshops, and the noted designer textile designer Mathilde Flögl. The original pencil drawings, pencil and gouache designs, and fabric swatches for Fälter are held in the MAK Museum in Vienna, and the Victorian and Albert Museum in London have a sample of piece of the silk fabric in an alternate colour wave. The Museum of Applied Arts in Sydney holds a swatch book of textiles from the Wiener Werkstätte, however Flögl’s work is not represented. The National Gallery of Victoria holds a similar swatch book. The remnant has an excellent provenance, is associated with a powerful personal narrative, and is significant and rare item relating to history of the Wiener Werkstätte in Vienna, and the oeuvre of Matilda Flögl.   Ann Carew 2016Remnant of a block-printed silk fabric used to make the bedspread for Karl Duldig and Slawa Horowitz-Duldig's bed in Vienna.

Sample swatch book,100% merino extrafine Zegna Baruffa fabric.textile industry weaving, zegna baruffa, cloth - woollen, textile industry, weaving

Sample swatch book,100% merino extrafine Zegna Baruffa fabric.textile industry merino sheep weaving, zegna baruffa, cloth - woollen, textile industry, merino sheep, weaving

Sample swatch book,100% merino extafine Zegna Baruffa fabrictextile industry weaving, zegna baruffa, cloth - woollen, textile industry, weaving

A set of laminated A3 sketchbook pages depicting designs for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occasions Uniform designed by Wendy Powitt. On the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games donor Doug Pleasance wrote- The 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games saw an evolutionary change in designer selection. A Declaration of Interest Form was communicated to over forty potential designers. The task and especially tight timelines that were involved deterred many aspirants, however, there remained eight designers with the potential we were seeking. These eight designers were paid $3,000 per submission and the winning designer, Wendy Powitt, was paid $15,000. For the first time the judging panel included two athletes, one male swimmer and one female basketballer, their influence was pivotal. The Official Uniform was used for both travel and official functions. This included a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt set (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones in pure olive green faille fabric by Foster Valley, a cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, a printed wool tie by TD Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy.8117 .1 - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occasions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for black suit pants and blazer, a yellow shirt with a white collar and a floral printed tie. Two detail drawings appear at the top of the page depicting the Australian emblem in detail as well as the suit jacket and shirt. 8117.2 - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occasions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for a pair of black trousers, a yellow button up shirt with a white collar and cuffs and a floral printed tie. Around the main image are three smaller drawings depicting the detail of the trousers, belt clasp and black shoes. 8117.3 - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occasions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for a pair of trousers, a green knit, button up vest, a yellow shirt with a white collar and cuffs and a floral printed tie. On this design there is also a small swatch of yellow fabric attached as well as a small detail drawing of the knit vest behind the right shoulder of the man depicted. 8117.4 - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occasions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for a pair of trousers, a yellow button up shirt and a printed striped tie. 8117.5 - unnumbered - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occassions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for black suit pants and blazer, a yellow shirt with a white collar and a floral printed tie. Two detail drawings appear at the top of the page depicting the Australian Emblem set on top of stripes in detail as well as the suit jacket and shirt. 8117.6 - A laminated A3 sketchbook page depicting a design for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Men's Official Occassions Uniform. The main drawing shows the design for black shorts and floral button up shirt, belt, lace up shoes with socks and pocket detail.1992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, artwork, drawing, uniform

This book containing tartan fabric samples belonged to the Warrnambool firm of Cramond and Dickson. It is presumed to have been brought from Scotland to Warrnambool by either John Glass Cramond or James Dickson Snr. for use in their Department Store where customers could choose which tartan they preferred. It is obvious that it has been well used as pieces have been cut from some samples. Tartan clothing has been a favourite over many years used for fashion garments and children's clothing in addition to its use in traditional Highland dress. The firm of Cramond and Dickson was established as a general store in 1855 and closed in 1974.This book is of considerable significance as it is our earliest memento (1850) of the prominent Warrnambool firm of Cramond and Dickson, a business that operated for 119 years.This is a hard cover book with a dark coloured leather cover with gold printing and a much damaged spine. Inside the cover is a mottled pattern. The pages contain some hand written information and swatches of tartan fabric pasted on separate pages. Some of the tartan samples have had pieces cut off. The pages have the name of the tartan and other annotations. There is one loose page.cramond and dickson warrnambool, tartan