The subject item was made in England by W&T Avery a British manufacturer of weights and weighing machines. The company was founded in the early 18th century and took the name W & T Avery in 1818. The undocumented origin of the company goes back to 1730 when James Ford established the business in the town of Digbeth. On Joseph Balden, the then company’s owner’s death in 1813 William and Thomas Avery took over his scale making business and in 1818 renamed it W & T Avery. The business rapidly expanded and in 1885 they owned three factories: the Atlas Works in West Bromwich, the Mill Lane Works in Birmingham and the Moat Lane Works in Digbeth. In 1891 the business became a limited company with a board of directors and in 1894 the shares were quoted on the London Stock Exchange. In 1895 the company bought the legendary Soho Foundry in Smethwick, a former steam engine factory owned by James Watt & Co. In 1897 the move was complete and the steam engine business was gradually converted to pure manufacture of weighing machines. The turn of the century was marked by managing director William Hipkins who was determined to broaden the renown of the Avery brand and transform the business into specialist manufacture of weighing machines. By 1914 the company occupied an area of 32,000m² and had some 3000 employees. In the inter-war period, the growth continued with the addition of specialized shops for cast parts, enamel paints and weighbridge assembly and the product range diversified into counting machines, testing machines, automatic packing machines and petrol pumps. During the second world war, the company also produced various types of heavy guns. At that time the site underwent severe damage from parachute mines and incendiary bombs. Then from 1931 to 1973, the company occupied the 18th-century Middlesex Sessions House in Clerkenwell as its headquarters. Changes in weighing machine technology after World War II led to the closure of the foundry, the introduction of electronic weighing with the simultaneous gradual disappearance of purely mechanical devices. The continued expansion was partly achieved through a series of acquisitions of other companies. After almost a century of national and international expansion, the company was taken over by GEC in 1979. Keith Hodgkinson, managing director at the time, completed the turn-around from mechanical to electronic weighing with a complete overhaul of the product range of retail sales of industrial platform scales. In 1993 GEC took over the Dutch-based company Berkel and the Avery-Berkel name was introduced. In 2000 the business was in turn acquired by the US-American company Weigh-Tronix, who already owned Salter, and is today operating as Avery Weigh-Tronix.An item used by grocers and merchants throughout the then British colonies of England to weigh store-bought goods around the mid to late 19th century. This item gives an insight into the daily lives of early colonial settlers and is a significant part of the era’s social history of the time.Balance scale and weights with removable dish, two round weights glued to tray 4oz and 8oz. Scales 'to weigh up to 28lb. Printed in gold on black labels each side "W & T AVERY LTD", "BIRMINGHAM" warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, scale and weights, food preparation equipment, w t avery ltd, balance scale, grocers scales, james ford, william & thomas avery, birmingham uk

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

An example of baking equipment used in Victorian times and still used to day.Spoon, wooden, blonde colour. Spoon section tapers to rounded point and handle is flat and shaped.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, wooden spoon, food preparation, baking equipment, kitchen utensil

Hexamine stoves, such as this example, were used in the field by soldiers for the preparation of food and boiling of water. The stove would have been fuelled by hexamine tablets, which contain flammable elements of formaldehyde, ammonia, nitrogen oxide and hydrogen cyanide. Associated tablets have been removed from collection as a safety precaution. Due to the fumes of the fuel tablet, food cooked on such a stove would have been sealed in a container when cooking.Silver coloured aluminium hexamine stove. The stove is made of three pieces of metal, the 'floor' and two sides, which form a box when closed and when open appear like an upturned table. The floor of the stove has a series of holes and lines stamped into it. The sides of the stove have been attached to the base with brass rivets. When open, the sides open to form a stand at the base and the interlocking grooves which line the edges of the sides act as a cooking platform on top. When closed, the stove appears as a small box. cooking, vietnam, field, equipment, rations, food, 1960s

The Hughes’ Family Scale No. 48 is a spring balance scale. It uses the Imperial measurements of ounces and pounds. There are 16 ounces (OZ) in one pound (LB), and each pound equals approximately 454 grams in Metric measurements. Scales have been used to measure and compare items for value for centuries. A weight was placed on one side of a balance and the object was placed on the other. Adjustments were made to either the weight or the object until the balance was horizontal, which meant that each side was the same weight. The Salter family business began in 1760 with spring makers, Richard and William Salter. In the late 18th century, Richard Salter invented the spring scale, where the weight of an object on the tray of the scale causes pressure on a spring in the scale. The pressure caused by gravity was then measured to calculate the weight of an object. Spring scales are still used today along with the more recent and accurate digital scales. The company began manufacturing in West Bromwich, England, in 1770. The firm was taken over by William’s sons, John and George. In 1824, after the death of John, the firm became George Salter & Co. The company produced a wide variety of products, including Britain’s first bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. In 1884 the Salter Trademark of a Staffordshire knot pierced by an arrow was registered. After over 100 years of manufacturing, the company was bought out by Staveley Industries, which was bought by Weigh-Tronix, and then that company was bought by HoMedics Company in 2004.This scale was made by Salter, the company that invented the balance scale, the first British bathroom scale and the first English typewriter. The scale represents the domestic equipment used for measuring in food preparation over 100 years ago. Modern kitchen scales are still using the same principal, along with scales used in business and industry.Scale; a domestic spring balance scale for measuring weight from 0 to 20 pounds. The scale’s grey metal case has a round white dial on the front with black markings, an arrow indicator and a round shallow metal bowl on a pedestal at the top. The scale is raised on a rectangular metal base with outward-sloping sides. An adjustable screw is on the dome top. The scale is marked from 0 to 20 pounds, with each pound marked in 1-ounce increments. The scale is named the Hughes Family Scale No. 48 and was made in Britain by Salter.“HUGHES’ / FAMILY SCALE / No. 48” “BRITISH MADE” “TO WEIGH 20 LBS BY 1 OZ” “SALTER” above logo [knotted rope with an arrow through loops]flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, hughes, salter, british made, family scale, no. 48, spring balance, scale, weighing instrument, weights and measures, weighing machine, kitchen utensil, baking accessory, domestic equipment, cookware, bakeware, kitchen scale, kitchen accessory, food preparation, recipes, cooking, measuring

The subject item is a good example of a large, hand-operated Bentwood box butter churn used to make up to 14 pounds of butter. It was made in Gisborne, Victoria, by the famous manufacturer, E. Cherry, and is known as an Improved Patent No.2 model probably dating from the late 1800s. The Cherry works specialised in making all types of butter churns and equipment for both domestic use on farms and small butter factories during the late nineteenth and early to mid. twentieth centuries. Milk was "separated" to retrieve the cream which was then beaten to make butter. E Cherry began making various models of Cherry butter churns in 1858, Edward Cherry migrated from Herefordshire England to Australia in 1855 with his wife Ann Appleby, nee Davis, and established a joinery workshop at Gisborne, Victoria. He began by making butter churns in his spare time and his product soon became popular allowing him to establish a viable business. A factory was established in 1875 and he started to make churns of all sizes including up to industrial scale. He exported his products to many countries around the world, Edward Cherry died in 1909 and the business was then run by his son George until he died in 1917. E Cherry's other son Thomas (1861-1945) was also involved in the firm maintaining an interest for several years. He had been born in Gisborne and became a senior house medical surgeon at the Melbourne Hospital in 1890. He continued his studies at Kings College London, eventually becoming a renowned bacteriologist and agricultural scientist. A significant item giving an snapshot into how early industrial manufacturing became established in Australia in the production of domestic and industrial dairy equipment.Butter churn wooden manually operated made by Cherry and Sons with rotating lever curved plywood basin and parallel cross beamed horizontally spoken churning apparatus inside with wooden plug at lower side of churn. Label in block transfer "E CHERRY / MAKER / GISBORN / VICTORIA / 2" "IMPROVED PATENT"warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, butter churn, wooden butter churn, e cherry & sons, dairy equipment, gisborne, food preparation

This meat mincer was a common kitchen utensil used by housewives for the preparation of meat when cooking food for their familiesA 'Universal' steel, meat mincer with clamp to attach to table or bench, funnel top, and an adjustable screw - to cut meat - that is operated by a steel crank with a wooden handle.Front ; 2 'Universal' Crank arm : L.F&C. NEW BRITAIN, CONN, USAearly settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, moorabbin, bentleigh, housewives, home cooking, meat preparation, thatcher frank, l f & c pty ltd conneticut, butchers

A machine fitted with sharp blades, for mashing, crushing or liquefying food ingredients. i.e vitamizing. The jug, made of glass, steel, aluminium or plastic, contains rotor blades that engage with a bit protruding from the base containing an electric motor. When activated by the switch on the base the sharp rotor blades chop, mix , mince, pulverize the ingredients in the jug . The degree of mince depends on the time the motor is running. The jug is easily removed from the base to pour the mixed ingredients where needed and the rotors are safely and easily cleaned by rinsing under water.c1940, an electric, 'Vulcan' Vitamizer, with the original cloth covered flex and bake-lite lever switch at front of the cream bake-lite base . The jug- shaped chrome blender has a red, thick, rubber lid. Front: : Vulcan / LM1 Base ; VULCAN / TYPE LM1 / Patent Pending Design / Volts 220 Amps 8vitamizer, food preparation, cooking, vulcan pty ltd australia, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, ormond, housekeeping

A colander, sieve or cullender is a kitchen utensil used to strain foods such as pasta or to rinse vegetables. The perforated nature of the bowl allows liquid to drain through while retaining the solids inside it is sometimes also called a pasta strainer or kitchen sieve. Conventionally, colanders are made of a light metal, such as aluminum or thinly rolled stainless or plated steel, colanders are also made of plastic, silicone, ceramic, and enamelware. The word colander comes from the Latin Colum meaning sieve.Early 20th century kitchen item possibly of French manufacture due to the design and shape of the bowl this design appears to have been favoured by the French around 1910 for smaller Colanders. This item gives a snapshot into domestic life around the late 19th and early 20th centuries and the types of kitchen equipment in use.Strainer or colander, metal, with concave base and wood handle, plated metal construction with welded or folded seams. Handle painted black, perforated base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, strainer, food strainer, seive, food preparation, kitchen ware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

In the high tech, fast paced society that we live in, it’s easy to take some things for granted. Case in point: the wood cutting board on which you’ll probably be preparing the evening’s dinner. Have you ever taken the time to think about the history of the cutting board? Where did it come from, and what did ancient civilizations use to cut their meats, fruits and vegetables? Wood throughout the ages Since the dawn of time, wood has been one of the most available materials used by mankind to build tools and lodgings, so it’s not really surprising to know that wood has been used in the preparation of food since the prehistoric ages. Of course, back then, cavemen probably used an unpolished slab of tree trunk to cut the kill of the day on and they probably didn’t think twice about saving it once the meal was over. Chances are they probably threw it in the fire with the rest of the wood needed to kindle it. Advances in technology Throughout the centuries, mankind evolved and started creating machines from steam, electricity and metal. When the circular saw was invented, nicer, cleaner slabs of wood were cut and used as cutting boards. Since soft wood was the most available type of wood at the time, it was the material of choice for to be used for cutting boards. Boards were made smaller since the slab of wood could now be cut to any desired size. Since they were made smaller, they were also used to eat off of and some people referred to them as trenchers. Trenchers were originally pieces of stale hard bread that were used as substitute plates. Wood trenchers quickly became the replacements of the eatable dinnerware. The butcher block: the cutting board’s larger cousin In the industrial ages, many industries rapidly developed, and the butchery industry followed this trend as well. Before the invention of the cutting board, butchers used tree rounds to carve their meat on. The rounds were often too soft and they rapidly became unsanitary. Hard maple wood butcher blocks were the preferred choice of the industry. They were made to be extremely thick and durable, so durable in fact, that a butcher could use the same block for almost his entire career. Cutting boards around the world As cutting boards began to be more and more used in kitchens around North America, the rest of the world crafted such boards from different materials. The East used thick bamboo as their material of choice. Despite its frail appearance, bamboo is quite strong and made durable cutting boards and butcher blocks. Europe used maple in the crafting of their cutting boards while Persia used flat pieces of polished wood in their kitchens. The world then saw cutting boards that were being made from other materials like plastic and they came in all shapes and sizes, but they always served the same purpose, to provide a household with a safe, clean surface on which to prepare meals for their friends and family members. https://www.woodcuttingboards.com/news/quick-history-of-the-cutting-board-47.aspxThe bread board is an example of kitchen equipment used during Victorian times and similar to those used today.Bread board. Wooden, octagonal, plain sanded light wood. Has decoration around edge and indented circular line to delineate round cutting board section.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, bread board, cutting board, pastry board, kitchen utensil, kitchen equipment, baking equipment, food preparation

Cast iron stoves burn solid fuel such as wood or coal, and are used for cooking and warmth. The stoves have a firebox with a grate where the fuel is burned. The hot air flows through flues and baffles that heat the stove top and the oven. Before cast iron stoves were invented, cooking and heating were carried out in outdoor open fires, and later, in fireplaces inside the home. In 1642 the first cast iron stove was manufactured in Lynn, Massachusetts, where molten cast iron was poured into a sand mould to make rectangular plates that were then joined together to make a box. Benjamin Franklin invented the more efficient Pennsylvania stove in 1744, and this efficient design is still used today. After the mid-19th century cast iron stoves were produced with burners in different positions, giving varied temperatures, so a wide variety of foods could be cooked at the same time at the most suitable heat, from slow cooking to baking scones. In contemporary times people the new wood-burning stoves had to meet the anti-pollution standards now in place to protect our environment. By the 1920s gas cookers were being introduced for domestic use, and by the 1930s electric home cookers were being offered to householders. PLANET STOVES In August 1925 the firm Cox and Rizzetti, Stove Works, and also Sydney Road, South Melbourne, advertised in the Brunswick and Coburg Leader of November 11, 1925 as "formerly with Harnwell and Sons" and as "specialists in solid cast iron Planet stoves ... which merit an inspection from builders and householders". The firm continued in business and was mentioned as sponsors in the King Island News in 1971. Harnwell and Sons was listed in the Victorian Government Gazette of 1894. It is curious that the firm was mentioned in an article in the Sunrasia Daily of June 14, 1934 titled 'Planet Stoves' as a manufacturer of Planet Stoves. This Planet No 3 stove is an uncommon example of cooking equipment used in kitchens in the early 20th century, as the firebox is above the oven rather than beside it. The cast iron combustion stove is significant as part of the evolution of domestic cooking. Previously cooking was mostly carried out in outdoors in open fires, and later in fireplaces indoors. Cast iron stoves are still used today and have additional features such as thermostats to monitor and maintain temperature, water heating pipes connected, and environmentally approved anti-pollution fittings. Stove; a compact, blackened cast iron combustion cooker, installed within a fireplace and enclosed by bricks on both sides. The upright rectangular stove has a flat top with three round, removable cook plates and a flue connected at the back. The front has three doors with round knob handles; a swing-down firebox door above a sliding ashtray, and two side-hinged oven doors above a sliding opening. Inside on the side walls are two pairs of runners. Behind the pair of doors is an oven with two pairs of rails and two removable metal shelves. The stove has cast inscriptions on the chimney flue and on the front of the right hand side stove door. The model of the stove is The Planet No 3, made in Melbourne.Chimney flue, "[within rectangle] THE / PLANET" Stove door, "(within oval) PLANET / No 3"flagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, stove, cast iron stove, combustion stove, wood-burning stove, wood stove, wood oven, solid fuel stove, cooker, the planet, planet, planet no. 3, kitchen equipment, baking, domestic cooking, cooking equipment, food preparation, planet stove, planet cooker, cooking range, slow combustion stove, antique, range cooker, cox and rizzetti, harnwell and sons, melbourne manufacturer

Scales such as the subject item were used to measure commercial quantities, possibly grains and farm produce for quite large amounts of product, also in a domestic situation. Bags of grain or other dry goods would have been hooked up and weighed. Salter has been a name long associated with weights and measures. The firm began life in the late 1760s in the village of Bilston, England when Richard Salter, a spring maker, began making the first spring scales in Britain. He called these scales "pocket steelyards", though they work on a different principle from steelyard balances. By 1825 his nephew George had taken over the company, which became known as George Salter & Co. George later established a manufacturing site in the town of West Bromwich, about 4 miles (7 km) from Bilston. West Bromwich Albion football club was formed from workers at this works site. From here the company produced a wide variety of scales including the UK's first bathroom scales. Other items were added to the range, including irons, mincers, potato chippers, coin-operated machines and the first typewriters made in the UK. The business thrived throughout the 1900s, and by 1950 it employed over 2000 people, still in the same area and owned by the same family.Salter is a British housewares brand developing products that span a wide range of core product categories, including scales, electrical, cookware. It is a market leader in kitchen and bathroom scales and one of the UK’s oldest consumer brands.  Established in 1760, Salter has been developing precision products for over 260 years. It was acquired by Manchester-based consumer goods giant Ultimate Products in 2021 after they had previously licensed the brand for cookware and kitchen electrical since 2011.Scale, Salter's improved spring balance, warranted. Brass and iron. Weighs 0 to 25LBS. Long rectangular brass instrument with ring attached to top and hook attached below. Centre of rectangle has long vertical slot with short, horizontal bar that slides down the slot when an object is suspended from the hook, showing its weight on the numbered scale beside the slot.Marked ""SALTER'S IMPROVED SPRING BALANCE" "Number 2". Weighs 0 to 25LBS. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, salter balance scale, weight measuring scale, weighing dry goods, domestic object, kitchen scale, measure, weigh, measure ingredients, food preparation

'Lightning' Winding Mechanism for Butter Churn. 4 Qt' Embossed on the mechanism (Previously in Box $45 from Mechanincs Institute Eaglehawk)domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Small nutmeg grinder, metal with black wooden handles, marked Pat ap'd for.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Two wooden butter pats, one marked in ink, approx 1880 vintage butter pats donated by Sister Kerrins 154 Don St Bendigo 12.3.65domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Three wooden butter or shortbread stamps with patterns of, cow, rooster and rose.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Wooden butter mould with dove tailed joints on corners, hole in base with handle for pushing butter out. Stamped with number 20 on both pieces.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Small wooden roller for making patterns on butter or shortbread pastry, dated 1827 & with initials IY, accompanied by a newspaper clipping reporting the history of the object. Made by Mr.Y.J.Young of Durham, England for his wife & inherited by his Granddaughter Miss Robshaw of Don Street, Bendigo.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Cream pottery mixing bowl with Greek key pattern around side.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Clear glass rolling pin with one end open to enable filling with water.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Clear glass rolling pin open one end to enable filling with water.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

China teapot minus lid decorated with crown & sceptre on sides Prince of Wales feathers on spout and gilded fleur de lis & Maltese cross.WM1domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

White ceramic jelly mould in shape of a sea shell.Gdomestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Brown earthenware teapot with lid, lighter streaking in glaze.ALB Patented England Made in Englanddomestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Speedie electric jug, green earthenware.Speedie for AC only Wattage 1600 Voltage 230 V/AC/J1domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Cast iron food mincer with claw feet legs, mounted on board, painted silver with white enamel mouth, wooden turning handle with thumb screw, flip catch to open for access to mincing teeth inside.15 Alte Hutte Neusalz & O Patent 58domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Aluminium egg separator with embossed floral pattern around sides.Rgd No 534385domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen

Sheet metal sugar scoop with finger loop handle.L28domestic equipment, food preparation, sugar scoop

Very small sheetmetal mug/dipper with finger loop handle.domestic equipment, food preparation, kitchen