Clothing. Dark brown fox fur cape with two tails at front (30 x cm X 7 cm) and two tails at back (34 cm X 7 cm). Lined with brown cotton fabric. Head of fox still attached with slide clip on back. A 33 cm cord chain is attached near the seams joining the two back tails. A cord hook is attached at the base of the fox head.costume accessories, female, fox fur cape

Originally owned by mother of donor.Brown fur cape, shaped over shoulders and fastened at waist with hook and eye. Brown satin lining. Pockets at ends of fur.costume accessories, clothes accessories

Originally belonged to mother of donor.Brown fur cape, shaped to fit over shoulders; fastened at waist with hook and eye. Brown satin lining. Pockets in side of flaps.costume accessories, clothes accessories

Fur cape, beige coloured lining. Fur shadings of brown.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, fur cape, fur, cape

Fur cape, black linen lining. Brown and white colouringflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, fur cape, fur

Fur cape belonging to the donors's motherFitted fur cape. Possibly mink.fashion & design collection - kew historical society, costume accessories, furs

Fur cape with two different pelts - one long fur and the other short thick and light brown. One pelt is possible Kangaroo. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, fur caoe, cape, fur, kangaroo plet

Child's handmade cape/bolero. Made for child c 1970's.Child's cream synthetic fur bolero with hood and lining.clothing, handmade, c1970, child

Worn by Mrs. Ellen CornellBlack and grey fur cape with paw attachments, and brown satin lining.capes, fur clothing, fur coats

Lady's brown fur collar/cape. Has green linen lining.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, fur, fur collar

BHS Collectionsepia photoghraph on cream board. Adult female, seated and holding rolled paper, left arm resting on cushion with hand at chin. Wearing brocade dress, velvet cape with fur collar. Ward Bros. Paris panel. Photo, Bairnsdale and Sale, written on base of photo board in brown print. 'with very kind regards to Mr. and Mrs. Bush, July, 1899'Ward Bros., Bairnsdale and Sale.person, individual, portrait female, related to bush family ?

The pupils of Falconer Street Central School No.3918 in North Fitzroy rehearse with conductress Miss Ida Park for their performance at the Temperance Hall, Russell Street Melbourne with proceeds going to the Lord Mayor’s Fund. The house on the right of the photograph is Jubilee House, 126 Michael Street North Fitzroy and is extant. Photographer notations on slide: Choir At Fitzroy State School 1933 B5 While this photograph appears not to have been published, a photograph taken from a different angle of the same event was published in The Age 21 July 1933. SCHOOL CHILDREN SING IN THE OPEN AIR. “A choir of children at North Fitzroy practise their songs for a Pantomime, to be given in the Temperance Hall for the Lord Mayor's Fund on Wednesday next. On the extreme left is the conductress of the Choir (Miss Ida Park).” Reference: http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article204368572 Research by project volunteer, Fiona Collyer: Children of The Falconer Street Central School Choral Society, trained by conductress Miss Ida Park, along with dance and gymnastics pupils of Misses Dorothy Gibb and Inez Ellis, performed in the “Cinderella” pantomime at the Temperance Hall in Russell Street, Melbourne on 26 July, 1933. The proceeds went to the Lord Mayor’s Fund. Conductress Miss Ida Park (1904- 1952) lived in the North Fitzroy and Clifton Hill area all her life. She was immersed in the music world of Melbourne and was a member of the Musical Society of Victoria. Ida graduated from Melbourne University Conservatorium with a Bachelor of Music degree in 1929 before departing for London where she studied piano and organ at the Royal Academy of Music. Ida returned to Melbourne in 1931, and billed as “The Gifted Young Australian Pianist”, held pianoforte recitals of classical music at Assembly Hall, Collins Street. She also played the organ for services at St Paul’s Independent Church in Delbridge Street, North Fitzroy and later St Luke’s, North Fitzroy. Ida conducted the children of the Falconer Street Central School Choral Society as they competed in the State School Choral Championships and the 85 children of the Fitzroy City Centenary Choir who sang at Melbourne’s Centenary celebrations of 1934/35. In 1945, Ida married Charles Hazeldine, a tenor and returned digger who had served in two world wars. The pair performed together in many concerts over the years. Tragically, both Ida and Charles were badly injured when struck by a car while crossing Queens Parade Clifton Hill in June 1952, with Ida dying from head injuries at St Vincent’s Hospital soon after. She was 48 years old. Charles wrote on Ida’s death notice - “Called home.” The choir were pupils of Falconer Street Central School No. 3918 in North Fitzroy which was built in 1915 to provide upper primary education for grades 5 to 8 for the area. In 1957 it became Fitzroy High School. In 1992, the Kennett Government swept to power, embarking on a program of fiscal austerity and privatisation of government services. 390 government schools were closed, with the land proposed to be sold to developers. 7000 teachers were sacked: 10% of Victoria’s public school teachers. Auxiliary school staff also lost their jobs. Amongst the first to close was Fitzroy High School. Fearful that the land would be sold, hundreds of students, parents, teachers and local residents occupied the building around-the-clock in four hour shifts and overnight for 14 months, sleeping on gym mats in the principal’s office and administrators’ wing. The blockade was lifted when a arrangement was reached to allow Kangan Batman TAFE to use the school from 1993 until 1998. With the election of the Bracks Government in 1999, and construction of new buildings, Fitzroy High School was reopened in 2004 after a 12 year battle. Temperance Hall, at 172 Russell Street, where the children performed “Cinderella”, was built in 1872 by the Melbourne Total Abstinence Society as a venue for lectures, meetings and alcohol-free community concerts and events. From 1934, Temperance Hall was fitted out as a cinema and renamed the Imperial Theatre, showing popular Hollywood films, before closing in 1939 for renovations and reopening as the Savoy Theatre, Melbourne’s first “Continental” talkies cinema. At this time, Australian cinema programming was dominated by American and British films. The lessees, Continental Film Art Theatre began negotiating for theatre properties in Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide, Brisbane, Perth and Auckland to screen foreign language films, hoping to present the finest productions from France, Germany, Holland and Italy. At the cost of £6000, the theatre was fitted with the latest Mirrophonic sound and projection system and enlarged to seat 800 patrons with luxurious, ultra modern fittings and furnishings in a colour palette of rust and beige. Instead of usherettes, General Manager Peter Dawson, hoping to bring a sophisticated European atmosphere to the theatre, employed attractive, multilingual “Continental hostesses” to assist guests (not patrons) and answer queries relating to the films. Collectively the hostesses spoke English, French, Dutch, German, Russian and Italian. The Age 20 May 1939- “Atmosphere is a very important part of the theatre's scheme. Ushers in the ordinary sense will not be employed; hostesses will look upon patrons as guests. They will be dressed in full evening dress, and the only indication that they are not guests is the little medallion pinned to their evening dress, on which their names are inscribed.” The hostesses were dressed in evening gowns of olive-green velvet, the full skirts embroidered with gold loops, wine velvet bolero jackets and long white kid gloves with silvery tiaras in their hair. For guests worried that they may not understand the plot, the management assured patrons that- “By means of superimposed English translations on the bottom of the screen, the dialogue is perfectly understandable and the whole witty story can be followed with ease.” The Gala opening of the Savoy Theatre, on 31 May 1939 was attended by a “who’s who” of Melbourne Society, the women wearing beautiful gowns, headdresses and furs. Amongst the guests were former premier Sir Stanley Argyle and Lady Argyle, former Lord Mayor Sir Harold Gengoult-Smith and his wife Cynthia, Field Marshall Thomas Blamey and Lady Blamey and Miss Jessie Brookes. The Vice Consul for France, Monsieur Frank Puaux and his wife attended, Madame Puaux dressed in a black satin gown and a musquash fur cape. She was presented with a beautiful bouquet of scarlet carnations and lily of the valley tied with the tricolour of France. In his speech Monsieur Puaux stated that “from the cultural, linguistic and artistic points of view it was excellent that the Australian public should have an opportunity to see foreign film in the original language.” “Letty” writing in Table Talk magazine described the atmosphere of “Continental” gaiety that had permeated Melbourne - “The Letters of Letty”, Table Talk 8 June 1939 “The “foreign influence” is definitely obtruding itself into the even tenor of Melbourne life these days…. but in the pleasantest manner possible! Included in the great number of Continental people who have recently made their homes here, we have stars of the Russian ballet settling in our midst…. and now… we have been presented with our own Continental picture theatre in the attractive shape of The Savoy, which opened its doors on Wednesday night for the exclusive release of foreign films. One could hardly recognise the old Temperance Hall in its adaptation to the smart, comfortable and thoroughly-intriguing Savoy Theatre. Where once this rather draughty old building stood in Russell Street there now greets us an unmistakable “Continental” edifice, living up to its exterior by sustaining within its walls its overseas’ atmosphere. Indeed, one feels as though one has crossed the threshold into a European city, stepping out of the unmistakably Australian street that is Russell into The Savoy lounge to be greeted by polite “messieurs” from the attractive, Continental-looking usherettes and to gaze upon a film as delightfully French in story and presentation as “La Kermesse Heroique.” But successful though “La Kermesse Heroique” proved on its initial presentation inside the theatre, the debut was no more triumphal than that made by the winning and pretty little French lass who had charge of the booking office outside in the foyer. With her attractive accent and Continental flair for making one “feel at home” she was undoubtedly one of the hits of the night-especially with the susceptible males, who spent very much longer in the lounge than is customary, racking their brains for excuses for making conversation with the attractive Parisienne! Those French girls certainly have a way with them!” The opening film, the 1935 French comedy “La Kermesse Heroique”, (The Heroic Sex) starring Francoise Rosay and Jean Murat (film now called “Carnival in Flanders”) was the winner of the Grand Prix du Cinema Francais as the finest picture of 1936 and described in the advertisement as “The Gay French Comedy of Laughter and Romance” The film is set during the 17th century Spanish occupation of Flanders in the Flemish town of Boom at the time of their annual festival. Hearing news of a pending visit to Boom by the commander, the Duke of Olivares and his army, and fearing rape and pillage, the boorish burgomaster feigns his own death, hoping the Spaniards will bypass the grieving town out of respect. The army arrives and the cowardly men of the town flee. The womenfolk decide on a different approach. Lead by the burgomaster’s beautiful wife Cornelia, they set out to to preserve the peace with grace and hospitality only to find the Spaniards attractive and virile, unlike their own husbands. The Sun newspaper described the film as “Mellow as a Stilton cheese, and as ripely suited to adult taste.” Preceding “La Kermesse Heroique” was a Gaumont British newsreel of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth departing for a tour of Canada and the Soviet documentary “Nine Months on a Drifting Ice Floe” During the war “Continental” films became difficult to source, so the Savoy screened Hollywood movies and held fund raisers for the war effort. After World War Two, the Savoy continued to screen “Continental” films, catering to post-war immigrants from Europe and bohemian Melburnians. In 1953, the Savoy had a wildly popular season with queues winding around the block to see Swedish summer romance “One Summer of Happiness” (Hon dansade en sommar) with its nude swimming scenes. The Chief Commonwealth Censor declined to cut the film on the grounds that although it displayed nudity, it was genuinely artistic. According to Wikipedia, film director Fred Schepisi was first exposed to European films such as “Bicycle Thieves”, “Rocco and His Brothers” and “The Wages of Fear” at the Savoy as a teenager, leading to his long career in filmmaking. In 1955, in response to the massive rise in car ownership, the Melbourne City Council recommended that parking stations be built on every block. The Savoy Theatre and adjacent buildings, which included the Golden Fleece Hotel were demolished in 1963 and replaced with Total House, a Brutalist commercial building consisting of a seven storey car park crowned by a four storey office block, shops at street level, and a basement theatre which housed the Lido Theatre Restaurant-Cabaret from 1965. The building was designed by architectural firm Bogle & Banfield Associates and named for the original tenant of the offices, French oil company, Total Oil Products P/L. The Lido Theatre Restaurant was managed by former Tivoli dancer and promoter David Hamilton McIlwraith, presenting dinner and a glamorous cabaret floor show of showgirls, (some topless) to accompany variety acts by local and international actors, singers, comedians and magicians. The interior of the Lido was opulently decorated in deep, lush green with old world gold trim and chandeliers. Handily, patrons could enter and leave via an elevator, straight from the building’s own car park! A four course gourmet dinner with show and dancing cost $8.00 in 1968. The Lido advertised in 1966 that “Every visitor to Melbourne soon discovers the brightest entertainment spot in the Southern Hemisphere with its million dollar decor, dining delights and spectacular stage productions.” Australian Jewish News - 21 April 1967 - “Superb decor and atmosphere, cuisine and service have been readily recognised as the contributing factors to the excellence of stage presentations, staging, costumes, decor and, of course, the actual choice of artists.” The bedazzling ensemble of 40 high-kicking, feathered and sequinned showgirls were advertised as the “Fabulous Lido girls and the controversial Baretop Lido Goddesses” who were described as “Statuesque Beauty as Nature intended” and “…a host of glamorous gals whose favourite shade is flesh pink.” Some of the acts who performed at the Lido were- -Broken Hill’s own - opera singer June Bronhill -1967. -Versatile singer Lovelace Watkins known as “Black Sinatra - 1967. -“Queen of the five-fingered boogie", honky-tonk and rollicking rag-time pianist, Winifred Atwell - 1967. -New Zealand pop duo, Bill and Boyd -1968. -American actress and soprano Kathryn Grayson -1968. -Denise Drysdale in “Say It With Music” -1968. -“Catwoman” Eartha Kitt -1969. -Internationally recognised female impersonator, Sydneysider Tracey Lee, (Maxwell Richie) billed as "controversial impressionist and singing personality from the famous Carousel Nightspot in Paris". -Frances Faye, American comedienne and show-tune singer and pianist-1969. -“Cry Guy” histrionic singer Johnnie Ray -1970. -Risqué revue “Oh Calcutta!” with some segments and the “four letter” words removed-1970. In 1970, under new management, the Lido was renovated with claret and gold wallpaper, midnight blue ceiling and a computerised fountain with fairy lights and relaunched by “The Tigress from Tiger Bay”, Shirley Bassey. The relaunch was short lived however, as later that year the venue became El Toro Espana, a Spanish restaurant and nightclub offering a four course meal for $4.50 while you watched the floorshow. The venue then briefly became the Red Garter Music Hall Theatre from 1972, then in 1974 the site became the 600 seat Total Theatre comprising of a cinema with a stage for live acts. There were also three bars to choose from - the Crush Bar, the Bleachers and the Snake Pit. Total Theatre had the unusual concept of a live music act, or plays, musicals and magicians followed by a film. In 1975 soprano Suzanne Steele featured, followed by the film “The Voyage” starring Sophia Loren and Richard Burton. In 1975, the Total held a rock film festival showing a Jimi Hendrix documentary, “Monterey Pop Festival”, “Pink Floyd in Pompeii” and more. In 1976, 17 year old Chrissy Amphlett, later of rock band Divinyls, played the role of Linda Lips for nine months in the Australian stage production of R-rated “sexual musical”, “Let My People Come” at the Total Theatre. The Total Theatre closed in 1979 and from 1980 to 2014 the venue became Billboard Nightclub, hosting local and international acts, including INXS, Tina Turner and John Farnham, and in 2009, 18 year old Taylor Swift. The venue is now called 170 Russell and presents hundreds of live local and international acts every year. In 2014, after being under threat of demolition, Total House was listed on the Victorian Heritage Register as “a landmark of post-World War II modernist design and…one of the earliest and best expressions of Brutalist architecture in Victoria”. References: RICHARD CROOKS ARRIVES SCHOOL AGAIN VENUE OF ROYAL VISIT (1939, May 31). The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), p. 17. Retrieved November 21, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article205629696 AMUSEMENTS. (1933, July 27). The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), p. 12. Retrieved September 19, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article204378853 https://larzra.wordpress.com/origins/ CONTINENTAL HOSTESSES, (1939, May 31). The Sun News-Pictorial (Melbourne, Vic. : 1922 - 1954; 1956), p. 27. Retrieved November 21, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article278189387 The Letters of Letty (1939, June 8). Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic. : 1885 - 1939), p. 12. Retrieved October 29, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article149320966 SAVOY THEATRE (1939, June 1). The Age (Melbourne, Vic. : 1854 - 1954), p. 7. Retrieved September 19, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article205639035 NEW THEATRE OPENED (1939, June 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 8. Retrieved September 21, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article12134234 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_House Page [?] TOUCH OF SPAIN (1970, December 18). The Australian Jewish News (Melbourne, Vic. : 1935 - 1999), p. 35. Retrieved September 23, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article262493757 No title (1935, June 11). The Herald (Melbourne, Vic. : 1861 - 1954), p. 27. Retrieved September 29, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article244840169 Dine, wine, and watch a stage show (1966, November 16). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 6. Retrieved November 9, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article44025050 http://jonathanbollen.net/2011/02/26/tracey-lee/ LIDO ‘ART’ (1967, April 21). The Australian Jewish News (Melbourne, Vic. : 1935 - 1999), p. 8. Retrieved November 9, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article263003136 THE FABULOUS LIDO (1965, October 22). The Australian Jewish News (Melbourne, Vic. : 1935 - 1999), p. 17. Retrieved November 9, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article262983995 No title (1939, May 31). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 6. Retrieved November 21, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article12134144 #NEW THEATRE OPENED (1939, June 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 8. Retrieved September 29, 2025, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article12134234 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tracey_Lee_(female_impersonator) https://citycollection.melbourne.vic.gov.au/35b-40h-image-of-a-model-for-the-total-house-offices-and-car-park-on-russell-street/ https://www.theage.com.au/national/victoria/from-the-archives-1990-s-hundreds-of-school-closures-hit-victoria-20190801-p52cwj.html http://jonathanbollen.net/2011/05/29/the-lido-melbourne/Photographer notations on slide: primary schools, schools, music, education, choirs, fitzroy, cars, theatre restaurants, venues, films

A Collection of 12 (1 missing) photographs in a paper envelope. On the front of the envelope is the following: Valentine's Snapshots. 12 Real Photographs for Your Album. Cowes, Phillip Island. Published by The Valentine Publishing Co. Pty. Ltd., Melbourne. Photo No. 9 was originally missing but has now been supplied by James Iveson who had the complete collection. This was supplied to us on the 23/5/2020. We are always pleased when people visit VC and can add or make corrections to our entries and thank James very much. We are sure our original Donor, Anne Lucas, would also be pleased. 231-01. Black & White Photograph of the Cowes Pier looking towards Cowes with The Isle of Wight Hotel in the background. 231-02. Black & White Photograph of Forrest Caves looking out to the sea. Two people on the foreshore. 231-03. Black & White Photograph of seabirds on the coastline of Phillip Island. 231-04. Black & White Photograph of The Nobbies, Phillip Island. 231-05. Black & White Photograph of Pyramid Rock, Phillip Island. 231-06. Black & White Photograph of seals on Seal Rocks, Phillip Island. 231-07. Black & White Photograph of rocks at Cape Woolamai. 231-08. Black & White Photograph of the beach at Cowes. People and beach umbrellas - looking towards Mussell Rocks, Phillip Island. 231-09 Black & White Photograph of a Ferry arriving at the Cowes Pier loaded with people. Originally missing. 231-10. Black & White Photograph of the Killara Ferry at the Cowes Pier, Phillip Island. 231-11. Black & White Photograph looking towards the Cowes Pier. The Killara Ferry at the pier. 231-12. Black & White Photograph looking toward the Cowes Pier with the War Memorial in the foreground.Each photograph has a description of the photo with a number.the nobbies phillip island, australian fur seals, seals, wildlife - seals, wildlife - sea birds, pyramid rock, rocks at cape woolamai, rocky cliffs at cape woolamai, cowes war memorial, the killara ferry, cowes beach phillip island, cowes pier phillip island, forrest caves, phillip island, anne lucas

A capelet is a small cape, usually worn around a person's shoulders and often chosen to wear with an evening outfit. The design may include a hood, collar or even ruffles. Fabrics range from fur, leather, velvet and wool to shear silk and net. Trimmings include buttons, lace, ribbon, and tassels. A capelet was a fashionable garment from the late 19th to the early 20th centuries.Capelet with collar. White fur lined with white fabric. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, capelet, cape, evening wear, fur garment, fashion, edwardian, victorian, white fur

Orange bouclé wool coat woven with velvet stripes; brown fur collar and deep hem.1920s, cloak, cape

Black silk satin cape with corded design. Black fur trim on collar, centrefront openings and hem. Lined with quilted black silk. Watch pocket on left proper interior. Wool interlining.cape, 1890s

Plush fur collar with structured shoulders, featuring variegated colouring ranging from reddish brown to cream to white. Cream lining. Concealed hook and eye clasp at front.Label in centre back interior, white text on black: "Manton's / MELBOURNE"fur, fur collar, fur capelet, manton's department store

Owned by Mrs. Ellen Cornell.French rabbit fur capelet. Fawn dyed and stripped. With black satin lining.capes, fur clothing, fur coats

Western fashion in the 1890s saw women's capes become an item of fashionable choice as they fell gracefully over an expansive sleeve. Capes often had a high neck, and were frequently trimmed with jet passementerie and fur. This capelet has a fashionable dog-collar neckline which became fashionable from c.1895, lasting as a style to c.1905. The capelet was probably part of a mourning ensemble.The capelet originally belonged to Catherine Francis Ellen Gulliver (nee Wells) who was born in Ballarat in 1874. The item was passed by descent to her daughter Catherine Francis Helen Taylor (nee Gulliver) [born 1896], and then to her granddaughter, Doris Catherine Kriesfield (nee Taylor) [1922-2015]. Victorian-era capelet, designed to cover the shoulders, and ornamented with a double band of jet passementerie. The capelet has a high dog neck collar, which is lined with leather. The original lace, of which some remains, has been removed in the past, probably due to damage, leaving some traces of its original style. The front of the capelet has large hooks and eyes.fashion design, women's clothing, outerwear, capes, capelets, fashion -- 1890s -- 1900s, mourning wear

Western fashion in the 1890s saw women's capes become an item of fashionable choice as they fell gracefully over an expansive sleeve. Capes often had a high neck, and were frequently trimmed with jet passementerie and fur. This capelet has a fashionable dog-collar neckline which became fashionable from c.1895, lasting as a style to c.1905. The capelet was probably part of a mourning ensemble.The capelet originally belonged to Catherine Francis Ellen Gulliver (nee Wells) who was born in Ballarat in 1874. The item was passed by descent to her daughter Catherine Francis Helen Taylor (nee Gulliver) [born 1896], and then to her granddaughter, Doris Catherine Kriesfield (nee Taylor) [1922-2015]. Victorian-era capelet, designed to cover the shoulders, and ornamented with shamrocks outlined in jet passementerie. The capelet has a dog-collar neck, that is lined with leather. The original lace, forms a wide border edging the satin. The front of the capelet has large hooks and eyes.fashion design, women's clothing, outerwear, capes, capelets, fashion -- 1890s -- 1900s, mourning wear, catherine francis ellen gulliver, doris catherine kriesfield