This hat and hat box was donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village by the family of Doctor William Roy Angus, Surgeon and Oculist. It is part of the “W.R. Angus Collection” which includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material once belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) as well as Dr Angus’ belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. McDade is the surname of Dr Angus’ daughter Berry (Berenice) McDade nee Angus. This had belonged to her father Dr William Roy Angus, Surgeon and Oculist (1901 –1970), who wore it on the ship T.S.S. LARGS BAY when travelling from Australia to Scotland for extended studies to be a “Fellow” of the Royal College of Surgeons in Edinburgh in 1929. This bicorn, cocked hat was worn with narrow points towards the front and back. It is decorated with flat gold braid or ‘lace’ with a geometrical design. Regimental lace was worn on the uniform and headdress of regimental officers in the 19th century. Gold lace chevrons were worn on coats to signify rank. Drummers and Foot Guards also wore regimental lace to distinguish them from other military personnel. In the late 19th century the English and Welsh infantry officers’ uniforms displayed a rose-pattern lace. The gold bullion and underlying crimson ‘eyes’ have been used to signify the rank of the owner. Crimson eyes were used for military personnel, and blue eyes were used for naval personnel. Different numbers and colours of the bullion and eyes may have been used to represent different military ranks. The Regulations specify nine tassels and eleven underlying eyes but there could have been variations. We have not yet identified the rank for this particular hat but hats such as this were part of the Australian and British naval uniforms in the early 20th century. The gold button’s emblem features a cross with five stars, a crown, and the motto “AUT PACE AUT BELLO,” which translates as “either in peace or in war.” Museum Victoria has a similar button and writes that buttons with this design were used by the Victorian Volunteers in the nineteenth century. The Australian War Memorial Curator of Military Heraldry advised Museum Victoria that these buttons dated from 1880 to 1892 and were worn by regular, unranked soldiers. Tasmanian Midshipman Alan Casey, who served the British and Australian Navy from 1919 to 1933 and retired as a Lieutenant Commander, owned a similar officer's bicorn hat. His hat and epaulettes are in the Tasmanian Maritime Museum's collection. The Australian War Memorial has a hat that is very similar in design, described as an “Artillery Staff Officer’s cocked had with plume, worn by Volunteer Artillery Staff in the Victorian Colonial Military Forces”. That hat is different in that it has a plume and the braid and button are silver. Berry MdDade, the donor, has used the hat many times as a dress-up hat but doesn’t know the origin of it. The hat seems to fit the design of the Staff Officers in Victorian Volunteers in Colonial times, but the button on this hat was used for unranked volunteers. Also, military uniforms usually have very clear manufacturer’s labels, as they are made by reputable companies under contract to the Defence Department. The manufacturer’s mark is not discernible on this hat. The origin, original wearer and use of this particular hat is unclear. The military bicorn cockade hat belonged to Dr William Roy Angus and is part of the W.R. Angus Collection. It is significant for still being located at the site connected to Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The collection of medical instruments and other equipment is culturally significant, as an historical example of medicine from late 19th to mid-20th century. Dr Angus assisted Dr Tom Ryan, a pioneer in the use of X-rays and in ocular surgery. Black bicorn cocked hat and case. It appears to be part of a 19th-century Colonial full-dress naval officer's uniform. The long, narrow crescent-shaped hat is made of beaver fabric and the crown is lined with crimson silk and finished with a hand-stitched leather sweatband. On one flat side is a pleated black silk, lace cockade woven in the pattern of oak leaves and acorns. The cockade is overlaid with a double row of gold lace braiding secure with a Victorian Volunteer’s gold button. Wide diagonal bands of black lace braid trim are on each side of the gold braiding. The other side of the hat is plain. The front and back points of the hat each have seven gold bullion tassels with nine underlying twists of crimson ‘eyes’. The fitted metal carry case has a catch and a plaque on one side. The button bears a crown and cross with five stars and a motto. Inside the hat is a white name tag with clear adhesive over it, with black printed text with the name “Mc Dade”. The hat is part of the W.R. Angus Collection.The hat has no maker’s marks although there is a darker colour in the centre where there could have been a label. Inside the hat is taped a printed label; “Mc DADE 801 1032” Button’s emblem- a cross with five stars, under a crown, all within a buckled belt with the motto “AUT PACE AUT BELLO” [either in peace or in war] The plaque on the case has no legible marks.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, dr w r angus, t.s.s. largs bay, berry mcdade, 19th century colonial military uniform, artillery staff officer’s cocked had, victorian volunteers, victorian colonial military forces, colonial militia, aut pace aut bello, cocked hat, cockade hat, bicorn hat, military bullion, oak leaves and acorns pattern, gold bullion tassels, military heraldry, w.r. angus collection., australian navy, british navy, uniform

The Villa Alba Museum is cultural institution committed to the collection, study and display of 19th century interior decorative finishes, and the components of 19th and 20th century interior decoration. These include artefacts (wallpapers, textiles, carpet samples), furnishings, printed materials (catalogues, books, periodicals), and pictures (photographs).The tiebacks complete with tassels are historically significant for being associated ensuite with DAD-035-0001, the suite of curtains. The tassels have aesthetic significance as beautiful and intricate pieces of late 19thC interior decoration.6 parts of a total of 3 pairs of curtain tiebacks. Each pair comprises a length of plain gold silk cable cord plus a second, equal length with a magnificent tassel in the middle; the two pieces would loop around the lower-middle length of each curtain, pulling it open in a graceful drape. One pair is slightly shorter than the other two. The tie backs are made of floss (soft, shiny) silk cord, composed of two thick strands twisted together into a cable cord. Three lengths have an elaborate tassel attached to the middle of each cord, to weight the tieback in an elegant loop, with the loose ends attached to hooks or pins on the window frame. Each tassel is formed on a turned wooden core, wrapped with floss silk thread; further decorated with knotted netting, applied braid, and 16 glass beads. The big end of the mould forms a large, flattened shape, from which hangs a ring of long bullion fringe. Today this looks tarnished-silver (nearly black), colour, but as shown by the card of detached lengths of bullion fringe (DAD-035-0005), the untarnished colour would have been bright gold. Part of a group of 7 curtains with associated furnishings which includes a curtain with original fittings, fringe and braid unpicked from other curtains, and these 6 curtain tie backs. The six curtain tie backs are identical, though one pair is shorter. These curtain decorations are truly luxurious; the original suite of curtains would have been very expensive, an eloquent item of conspicuous consumption of luxury goods.Attached handwritten note : "VA Th. 7/6/2012 Ric Freeman 0419875707 (Nat Trust member) & Julie Freeman 0419875706 / re soft furnishings, tassels, trimmings, braid set / Jessie, Terry (and Chris St) to view, collect". The phone numbers were tried in October 2024, and though picked up, the contacts did not want to talk about the curtain donation.interior decoration - history, curtain accessories, tassels

It is not clear that this fringe was ever attached to the curtain suite; it may have come from an associated part of the original ensemble (eg pelmet) or from associated furniture. However, it is certainly connected to the fringe on the tieback tassels, whose tassels are finished with the same product. The detached gilt metal fringe has aesthetic significance as specimen of an opulent furnishing decoration in very lavish contexts, such as gold rush Victoria. Part of it still preserves the original bright gold metal, ie is untarnished; this is probably quite rare in Australian collections.Board wrapped w c.17m of heavy gilt metal fringe (known as bullion fringe) in several pieces, evidently detached from curtains, and/or furniture items. (No sign of it having been attached to the curtains). The fringe is composed of metallic thread very tightly wound over a cotton/linen thread, attached to a narrow header braid with an ornamental design worked in metallic gimp cord. The colour was originally gold, now tarnished on all parts exposed to air, but sections of the fringe under the top layers retain the luxurious gold finish. Westman (2019: 242) explains that 'gold thread' was made of gold fired onto silver bars from which thin, flat or round wires were cut to wrap around a core linen thread for use in trimmings. Shen notes that the very thin layer of gold often wears away, exposing the silver which tarnishes. Bullion fringe: fringe made of bullion, in the sense of precious metal, used for prestigious royal, ecclesiastical and military garments and furnishings. Westman (2019: 193, 240) says that by the 19thC, the name was also used for twisted thread long fringe made of wool, silk, cotton or a mix, as it is today. In this form, 'bullion fringe' became a lavish edge-trim in the early-mid-19thC wherever its vertical look could add richness to drapery. interior decoration - history

(Cutwork) Gold work, using a variety of bullions and sequins. Peacock motif is the central point at front of collar, composed of bullions, sequins and silk embroidery, also red and blue/green dots of silk embroidery on long over shoulders hands. Collar ties at back of neck with gilt threads and tassels.embroidery, collars, metal thread work, india