Handmade by internees of Camp 3Beaten silver oval brooch with small grey green stone in centre. Rim is indented with small dots. Handmade.brooch, helmut ruff, internment camp jewellery, jewellery making

Frederick Napoli Prescott was a prominent Bendigo Optician and Jeweller. He was born and educated in Hobart before joining his father's jewellery and optical business. After studying in Europe to gain further qualifications he returned to Australia and opened a business at the corner of Mitchell and Hargreaves Street Bendigo. He was later in partnership with Mr C.M. Dawe trading as Prescott & Dawe. Vyse Street Birmingham was once the centre of the jewellery making industry in Birmingham.Jeweller's sample card with samples of Cameo brooches, bar brooches, a necklet and a set of earrings. Design numbers printed below each design. A label glued on to the back reads " WALTER NEEDHAM, PARAGON WORKS, 34, VYSE ST., BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND.jeweller's designs, cameo jewellery

The Archimedes drill, also known as a fretwork drill, is an old type of drill which works on the Archimedian principle; the drill rotates quickly as the barrel on the stem is worked up and down. This tool provides a quick and easy way to bore holes through ordinary fret wood and other substances, smaller versions are used in jewellery making where precision drilling is required. There were numerous different sized Archimedes drills made from various materials, usually a combination of wood and steel, some being all steel and some including brass parts. The fancier versions of these drills included parts made from Rosewood, Ebony, Ivory and decorative brass parts. Some of the later Archimedes drills had technological improvements such as a ratchet device and the inclusion of fly-weights. The ratchet device allows the drill to revolve continuously in the cutting direction. The fly-weights give momentum to maintain the speed of the drill during the upward stroke of the hand. Most old examples such as the subject item have no makers names.A vintage drilling tool that gives a snapshot into how holes were drilled by hand into small or delicate objects during the Victorian era. Tools from this time are today regarded as collectable items eagerly sought by collectors of antique tools. Archimedean drill with Rosewood hand, brass bearings, steel twist and wooden grip. Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, archimedean drill, archimedean drill with wooden hand, drilling tool

The Archimedes drill, also known as a fretwork drill, is an old type of drill which works on the Archimedian principle; the drill rotates quickly as the barrel on the stem is worked up and down. This tool provides a quick and easy way to bore holes through ordinary fret wood and other substances, smaller versions are used in jewellery making where precision drilling is required. There were numerous different sized Archimedes drills made from various materials, usually a combination of wood and steel, some being all steel and some including brass parts. The fancier versions of these drills included parts made from Rosewood, Ebony, Ivory and decorative brass parts. Some of the later Archimedes drills had technological improvements such as a ratchet device and the inclusion of fly-weights. The ratchet device allows the drill to revolve continuously in the cutting direction. The fly-weights give momentum to maintain the speed of the drill during the upward stroke of the hand. Most old examples have no makers names.A vintage drilling tool that has been nickel plated with brass fitting and easier to sterilise. The item therefore could have been used in the medical profession as a bone drill during surgery. Weighted Archimedes drill all metal construction, nickel plated with brass handles centrifugal typeNoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, archimedean drill, drill, tool, drilling tool

The Archimedes drill, also known as a fretwork drill, is an old type of drill which works on the Archimedian principle; the drill rotates quickly as the barrel on the stem is worked up and down. This tool provides a quick and easy way to bore holes through ordinary fret wood and other substances, smaller versions are used in jewellery making where precision drilling is required. There were numerous different sized Archimedes drills made from various materials, usually a combination of wood and steel, some being all steel and some including brass parts. The fancier versions of these drills included parts made from Rosewood, Ebony, Ivory and decorative brass parts. Some of the later Archimedes drills had technological improvements such as a ratchet device and the inclusion of fly-weights. The ratchet device allows the drill to revolve continuously in the cutting direction. The fly-weights give momentum to maintain the speed of the drill during the upward stroke of the hand. Most old examples such as the subject item have no makers names.A vintage drilling tool that gives a snapshot into how holes were drilled by hand into small or delicate objects during the Victorian era. Tools from this time are today regarded as collectable items eagerly sought by collectors of antique tools.Archimedean drill with wooden grip and butterfly nut on chuck.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, archimedean drill, drill, fretwork tools, wood working tools

The Archimedes drill, also known as a fretwork drill, is an old type of drill which works on the Archimedian principle; the drill rotates quickly as the barrel on the stem is worked up and down. This tool provides a quick and easy way to bore holes through ordinary fret wood and other substances, smaller versions are used in jewellery making where precision drilling is required. There were numerous different sized Archimedes drills made from various materials, usually a combination of wood and steel, some being all steel and some including brass parts. The fancier versions of these drills included parts made from Rosewood, Ebony, Ivory and decorative brass parts. Some of the later Archimedes drills had technological improvements such as a ratchet device and the inclusion of fly-weights. The ratchet device allows the drill to revolve continuously in the cutting direction. The fly-weights give momentum to maintain the speed of the drill during the upward stroke of the hand. Most old examples have no makers names.A vintage drilling tool, the item therefore could have been used in various industries or professions where precise drilling is required. Archimedean drill with Rosewood hand, brass grip and fittings Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, archimedean drill

The Fenton Art Glass Company was founded in 1905 by brothers Frank L. Fenton and John W. Fenton in an old glass factory in Martins Ferry, Ohio. Originally, they painted glass blanks from other glass makers, but started making their own glass when they became able to buy the materials they needed. They moved across the Ohio river to Williamstown, West Virginia, and built a factory in 1906. The first year for glass production was 1907. Frank Fenton was the designer and decorator. Jacob Rosenthal, a famous glass chemist is known for developing chocolate and golden agate glass. Perfume bottles for the Wrisley Company in 1938 were made in French opalescent glass with the hobnail pattern In 1939, Fenton started selling Hobnail items in milk glass. During the Great Depression and World War II, Fenton produced practical items such as mixing bowls and tableware. Fenton ceased "traditional" glassmaking at the Williamstown, West Virginia factory in July of 2011. However, the factory remains open as a jewellery making operation, producing handcrafted glass beads and Teardrop earrings.Late early to mid 20th century Jack-in the- Pulpet style Fenton vase. Hand-blown outer aqua blue glass over base of white milk glass. Heavily ruffled and crimped rim, with clear glass edging. The narrow neck joins to larger circular base. The body of the vase is also decorated with swirling ridges. Clear glass handle. Pont mark on base, but no Makers Mark. Fenton's glassware bore no Makers Mark until the 1950s.glassware, lights, fenton art glass company, ohio, west virginia, usa, fenton frank l., fenton john w., rosenthal jacob, early settlers, pioneers, market gardeners, moorabbin, bentleigh, ormond, cheltenham

Stamp cases/holders began being produced in the late 19th century, commonly made of gold, wood, and silver. In this case, the item is made of sterling silver and has patterns and details etched into the metal sheets that make up the case. Sterling silver is the standard alloy used in jewellery and detailed metalworks with its physical properties making it maleable and corrosion resistant, therefore a favourable metal to work with both across many centuriesn the past and present. Stamp cases where popularised by James Allen of Birmingham who created and registered the stamp holders he made. As they gained popularity, it was common for stamp holders to consist of multiple compartments holding various small items such as matches, strikers and of course stamps. Metalwork and silverwork has been a prominent proffession and artform historically and socially for many years. There are many different types of metal work to specialise in and distinct patterns and inscriptions for identifying the provenance of the item. Hallmarking is this proccess of inscribing the item, and consissts of four main components (including assaying) which can indicate the date of creation. Unfortunately this item has no hallmark, therefore it is relatively unknown where, what, when and who created it.This item is of social and historic significance as it highlights the importance of preserving histoical items. This item display's the intricate and highly skilled trades of the past with a glimpse into the social and cultural aspects of the beechworths' history.A small, silver stamp holder with decorative details etched into the metal. It has a small loop on the left side of the case, indicating it could be connected and held by a chain or ring. A01145 (obejct number): A01145 [object number inside stamp case] / STERLING SILVER [inscription inside stamp case]metalwork, silver, silverware, sterling silver, stamp holder, stamp case, burke museum, social history, burke museum collection, beechworth

A pocket magnifying glass was a versatile scientific tool. It was ideal for situations in which the specimen was too small to be observed under a magnifying glass and access to a larger microscope would have been impossible.It could be taken on field expeditions and used to examine botanical, zoological and mineralogical specimens. This small magnifying glass could be used for examining specimens of plants or rocks or jewellery.Simple,pocket microscopes had a significant impact on the the general public’s appreciation of both science and the natural world by making the microscopic world accessible and exciting.A small brass pocket magnifying glass with resting arm. The cardboard box is blue / black in colour.magnifying-glass scientific-instrument

The theodolite was sold by T. Gaunt & Co. of Melbourne, a manufacturer, importer and retailer of a wide variety of goods including jewellery, clocks and watches, navigational and measuring instruments, dinnerware, glassware and ornaments. Thomas Gaunt photograph was included in an album of security identity portraits of members of the Victorian Court, Centennial International Exhibition, Melbourne, 1888. (See further details below.) History for Troughton & Simms: Edward Troughton & William Simms established a scientific instrument making business in London in 1826. Edward Troughton (1756-1835) had previously had his own scientific instrument business, inherited from his father. His achievement's included a transit telescope for Greenwich Observatory (1816) and the precision surveying instruments for the Ordnance Survey of Britain, Ireland and India. William Simms (1793-1860) had trained as a goldsmith and began to gain work dividing circles on fine astronomical instruments. When William Simms died in 1860, the business was taken over by his son James and nephew William. Troughton & Simms shop in Fleet Street became the hub of the finest scientific instrument made in London, in a period in which there was an expanding demand for precision instruments, for astronomy, surveying and precision measurement. They made instruments for Greenwich Observatory, for imperial surveys and exploring expeditions. When fire destroyed the Houses of Parliament in 1834, the firm was commissioned to create new standard lengths, this required 10 years of testing against the remaining old measurements. Troughton and Simms made several of the main instruments for Melbourne Observatory, including an 18 inch azimuth used of the Geodetic Survey, portable transit instrument (circa 1850), zenith sector (1860), a 4.5 inch equatorial telescope (1862), an 8 inch equatorial telescope (1874) spectroscope (1877) and an 8 inch transit instrument in (1884). While the firm had an excellent reputation for quality the company exasperated many of its customers with delays of years in delivering some instruments. History for Thomas Gaunt: Thomas Ambrose Gaunt (1829 – 1890) was a jeweller, clock maker, and manufacturer of scientific instruments, whose head office and showroom were at 337–339 Bourke Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. Thomas Gaunt established Melbourne's leading watchmaking, optical and jewellery business during the second half of the 19th century. Gaunt arrived in Melbourne in 1852, and by 1858 had established his own business at 14 Little Bourke Street. Around 1869 he moved to new premises in Bourke Street on the corner of Royal Arcade, Gaunt's shop quickly became a Melbourne institution. Gaunt proudly advertised that he was 'The only watch manufacturer in the Australian colonies'. While many watches and clocks may have had Gaunt's name on the dial, few would have been made locally. Gaunt did make some watches for exhibitions, and perhaps a few expensive watches for wealthy individuals. Gaunt's received a telegraph signal from Melbourne Observatory each day to correct his main clock and used this signal to rate and repair ship's chronometers and good quality watches. Thomas Gaunt also developed a department that focused on scientific instrumentation, making thermometers and barometers (from imported glass tubes), telescopes, surveying instruments and microscopes. Significance: With the rapid urban expansion, one of the most important needs of the new colony was to survey and map the landscape of the Australian Colony’s interior. Theodolites, such as this one, made by Troughton and Simms, who were significant scientific instrument makers of the 19th century were instrumental to the colony's surveyors and would have played an important part in their everyday work. This transit theodolite remains of national significance due to its pioneering role in Australian science and its association with Australia's earliest surveyors and astronomers. It is also significant for its association with nineteenth-century surveying instruments and instrument makers. Theodolite, Vernier repetition theodolite with enclosed horizontal circle (of about 130 mm diameter). Vertical circle exposed and somewhat corroded (diameter about 115 mm). Plate level 20" per division. Altitude bubble 20" per division. Horizontal and vertical circle intervals 20". Original (blue/grey) paint. Altitude bubble setting screw disabled. Tribrach allows movement of theodolite by 15 mm inside tribrach (for centering).Inscribed on the inner mounting plate,“Specially made in England for T Gaunt & Co Melbourne” and inscribed a little lower “Troughton & Simms London”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, theodolite, t. gaunt & co, troughton & simms, scientific instrument, measuring instrument, surveyor's instrument

The two cards of nibs are retail display cards of the dip pen nibs that William Mitchell Calligraphy produced, dating back to around the 1920’s, which was the time of the Great Exhibition in the UK. At that time dip pens with steel nibs were the main writing instruments. British Pens Ltd. had recently formed as a company and its subsidiaries included the the company William Mitchell, which is why British Pens Ltd. is named on the cards as well. One card (1) has the Round Hand nib, which is widely used today for calligraphy scripts. The other card (2) has the Script nib that has round upturned points for monocline or unshaded lettering that is also used for calligraphy. The nibs also have a detachable reservoir. The pen nibs are shaped to fit into a slot in the base of a wooden or Bakelite pen holder. The hole at the front of the nib is for collecting ink from a well, which is then stored in a reservoir at the back of the nib. The nibsare stamped with their nib size and Pedigree (what type of nib it is) and maker’s details. William Mitchell Calligraphy still makes these nibs today with a slightly difference finish. (ref: Sales and Marketing Director of William Mitchell Calligraphy in 2016). HISTORY of the Ink Pen Quills and ink were common writing tools until the early 19th century when the pen trade began mass producing steel nibs and pens. The steel nibs each have a hole in the middle that acts like a well for the ink. When the nib is dipped into the ink well the writer needs to ensure that it is dipped to only just past that well. India Ink was one of the most popular inks used with the nib pens, notable for its satin-like smooth flow. This ink is composed of a particularly fine carbon mixed with water; it can also be obtained as a dry stick that is then crushed and mixed with water as required. The Jewellery Quarter of Birmingham had the largest concentration of independent jewellers in Europe. Birmingham became the centre of the world’s pen trade for many years -, during the 1800’s over 100 factories, employing 1000s of skilled workers, manufactured the ‘Birmingham Pen’. ABOUT WILLIAM MITCHELL CALLIGRAPHY LTD.* (*The following text is quoted from the William Mitchell Calligraphy website) British based William Mitchell Calligraphy has been designing and manufacturing exceptional pens for almost 200 years. The William Mitchell heritage in making pen nibs began whilst working with his brother John Mitchell in the early 1820s. William Mitchell established his own business in 1825 to become one of the leading nib manufacturers and famous for lettering pens. Almost 100 years later William Mitchell merged with Hinks, Wells & Co, another pen manufacturer, to form British Pens, employing around 1000 people in the Bearwood Road area of Birmingham. During the early 1960s British Pens acquired the pen business of other pen manufacturers Perry & Co and John Mitchell, once again reuniting the two brothers. Joseph Gillott, who were famous for their artist drawing and mapping nibs, amalgamated with British pens in 1969. William Mitchell and Joseph Gillott established in Birmingham during the early part of the nineteenth century and [their products] are still proudly made here. British Pens were subsequently purchased by its current owner Byron Head, the owner of William Mitchell (Sinkers) in 1982, and was subsequently renamed William Mitchell (calligraphy) Ltd. Established in 1827 Joseph Gillott was one of the pioneers of mass steel pen nib manufacturing. The company was particularly strong in the American market, prompting Elihu Burrit, the American consul, to write “In ten thousand school houses across the American continent between two oceans, a million children are as familiarly acquainted with Joseph Gillott as with Noah Webster” (The compiler of the famous American dictionary). The company consequently received visits from many notable Americans, including president Ulysses S Grant. The early 19th century invention and mass production of pen nibs such these in our collection had a large impact on education and literacy because the nibs could be produced in great numbers and affordable prices.Pen nibs; 2 cards of steel dip pen nibs from the 1920’s. The steel nibs are attached to cards by 2 rows of entwined cotton cord. Reverse sides of cards have some hand written marks. Manufacturer; William Mitchell, Birmingham, England. Card issued by British Pens Ltd. Nibs have shaped ends, a hole in the centre with a well on the underside, and the tops are shaped approximately quarter circle. Inscriptions are pressed into each nib. The script pens have detachable reservoirs made of a metal different to the nib. (Card 1) Round Hand Pens, 11 nibs remain from card of 12. Printed on card “Round Hand Pens for Beautiful Writing, Twelve degrees of point, Square points. William Mitchell, Birmingham, England. This card is issued by British Pens Ltd. MADE IN ENGLAND” Also printed on top left of card is a pen drawing of a person writing at a desk, background of decorative 3-paned window in brick wall. (Card 2) Script Pens; 11 nibs remain from card of 12. “Script pens fitted with detachable reservoir. William Mitchell, Birmingham, England. This card is issued by British Pens Ltd. MADE IN ENGLAND” Also printed on top right of card is a pen drawing of a person writing at a desk, background of decorative 3-paned window in brick wall. On Card 1, - each nib is stamped with its size, and “Wm MITCHELLS / PEDIGREE / ROUND HAND / ENGLAND” - hand written on front bottom of card in ball point pen “Lettering 5 times size of nib” - hand drawn on back of card in red and blue ball point pen are scribbled lines On Card 2 - each nib is stamped with its size, and “WILLIAM / MITCHELLS / SCRIPT PEN / ENGLAND” - a black circle corresponding to the nib is printed on the card above each nib. - hand written on back of card in black felt tip pen are numerals - hand drawn on back, 4 parallel lines in red ball point pen with the numbers “10” between 2 of the lines flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, william mitchell calligraphy ltd, british pens ltd., pen nib, writing implement, dip pen, round hand nib, script nib, birmingham manufacturer, communication in writing, mass produced pen nibs

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

This is the site of the first roadside art gallery - Hassall's Roadside Gallery created by the artist son of an artist. Ian Hassall was the son of John Hassall who was among and may have been the first of the British poster artists. The gallery opened Saturday July 14, 1962 at 1215 Main road, Eltham by the director of the National Gallery of Victoria, Eric Westbrook. Situated on the left hand side of the main road, about a mile and a half beyond Eltham, towards Research, near Coleman's Corner at the intersection of Wattletree Road. The property has remnants of a stone quarry, probably for the purpose of gaining stone for local road making. Paintings were hung on screens and removed at night for safety. Large pedestals displayed sculpture and jewellery. All types of hand made art work was displayed. Access to the exhibition and grounds was slightly lower than the level of the road. They were encircled by a narrow little moat formed by a small tributary of the Diamond Creek accessed by a small well built stone bridge built by Ian Hassall with local stone. The Gallery later became known as Hassall's Gallery Bazaar antiques, furniture, curios bought and sold. It operated through to the early 1990s. The property has been derelict and neglected for some years. At one stage a shipping container sat near the entrance. This series of ten photographs illustrate the extent of the vegetation which has taken over the land, evidence of rubbish and a possible fire. In July 2017, planning permission was sought from the Shire of Nillumbik for buildings and works to construct a dwelling and associated vegetation removal. (source planningalerts.org.au)Born Digitaleltham, main road, hassall's gallery bazaar

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Box of dip pen nibs made by William Mitchell Calligraphy dating back to late 19th or early 20th century when dip pens with steel nibs were the main writing instruments. The pen nibs are shaped to fit into a slot in the base of a wooden or Bakelite pen holder. The hole at the front of the nib is for collecting ink from a well, which is then stored in a reservoir at the back of the nib. The nibs are stamped with their nib size and Pedigree (what type of nib it is) and maker’s details. William Mitchell Calligraphy still makes these nibs today with a slightly difference finish. (ref: Sales and Marketing Director of William Mitchell Calligraphy in 2016). HISTORY of the Ink Pen Quills and ink were common writing tools until the early 19th century when the pen trade began mass producing steel nibs and pens. The steel nibs each have a hole in the middle that acts like a well for the ink. When the nib is dipped into the ink well the writer needs to ensure that it is dipped to only just past that well. India Ink was one of the most popular inks used with the nib pens, notable for its satin-like smooth flow. This ink is composed of a particularly fine carbon mixed with water; it can also be obtained as a dry stick that is then crushed and mixed with water as required. The Jewellery Quarter of Birmingham had the largest concentration of independent jewellers in Europe. Birmingham became the centre of the world’s pen trade for many years -, during the 1800’s over 100 factories, employing 1000s of skilled workers, manufactured the ‘Birmingham Pen’. ABOUT WILLIAM MITCHELL CALLIGRAPHY LTD.* (*The following text is quoted from the William Mitchell Calligraphy website) British based William Mitchell Calligraphy has been designing and manufacturing exceptional pens for almost 200 years. The William Mitchell heritage in making pen nibs began whilst working with his brother John Mitchell in the early 1820s. William Mitchell established his own business in 1825 to become one of the leading nib manufacturers and famous for lettering pens. Almost 100 years later William Mitchell merged with Hinks, Wells & Co, another pen manufacturer, to form British Pens, employing around 1000 people in the Bearwood Road area of Birmingham. During the early 1960s British Pens acquired the pen business of other pen manufacturers Perry & Co and John Mitchell, once again reuniting the two brothers. Joseph Gillott, who were famous for their artist drawing and mapping nibs, amalgamated with British pens in 1969. William Mitchell and Joseph Gillott established in Birmingham during the early part of the nineteenth century and [their products] are still proudly made here. British Pens were subsequently purchased by its current owner Byron Head, the owner of William Mitchell (Sinkers) in 1982, and was subsequently renamed William Mitchell (calligraphy) Ltd. Established in 1827 Joseph Gillott was one of the pioneers of mass steel pen nib manufacturing. The company was particularly strong in the American market, prompting Elihu Burrit, the American consul, to write “In ten thousand school houses across the American continent between two oceans, a million children are as familiarly acquainted with Joseph Gillott as with Noah Webster” (The compiler of the famous American dictionary). The company consequently received visits from many notable Americans, including president Ulysses S Grant. Email on file, from Mike Chappell, Sales and Marketing Manager, William Mitchell Calligraphy, “20161122 - William Mitchell re pen nibs” How to use a dip pen to create modern calligraphy, https://thepostmansknock.com/how-to-use-a-dip-pen-to-create-modern-calligraphy/ India Ink, Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_ink birmingham Pen Trade, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birmingham_pen_trade The Pen Museum, http://penmuseum.org.uk/ The early 19th century invention and later mass production of pen nibs such these in our collection had a large impact on education and literacy because the nibs could be produced in great numbers and affordable prices.Box of patent Mitchell nibs containing 48 "Pedigree" nibs. Box depicts picture of William Mitchell on lid, and picture of nib pen on lid and side. Made in Birmingham, England. Nib “0505 Wm MITCHELLS PEDIGREE ENGLAND” Box “PEDIGREE / MAINFOLD SLIP”, “WILLIAM MITCHELL / BIRM - - - - - - LOND” flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, william mitchell calligraphy ltd, pen nib, writing implement, writing accessories, dip pen, birmingham manufacturer, communication in writing, mass produced pen nibs

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug