Showing 28 items
matching lace making machine
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Clunes Museum
Domestic object - LACE MAKER
... lace making machine... of the reel lace making machine christina mckenzie lawrence ...Includes; .1 Lace Maker .2 3 x samples of lace .3.Bill of Sale dated 7 March 1916 payment received with thanks C.H Coombe .4 Price list of Torchon Lace Co.229 Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia .5The Torchon Lace Making Booklet, 12th edition, copyright 1904 .6 Letter (undated) offering The complete lacemaking outfit .7 Document with customer reviews .8 Booklet "The Torchon Lace Maker (illustrated) Copy right 1904 All rights Reserved .9 30 x cardboard lace making patterns No. 20 Torchon Edging, Diamond Point Edging, Net Ground, 2 x Round Point Edging, Edging No. 11, Diamond Antique Edging, Jewel Insertion, Smyrna Edging, Rose Ground, Edging No. 24, Insertion No. 22, No.5 Twisted Hole Ground with "Spider". Spider insertion, Copenhagen Lace, Plain Hole Ground, Ornamental Ground Pin Check, Block Lace, Spider Lace, No. 18 Medici Lace, ZigZag Lace, Wide Antique Lace, Diamond Antique Edging, Block Lace, Jewel Insertion, Edging No. 24, Spider Lace, Zig-Zag Lace, Medici Lace, No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn into the centre of the doyley. .12 Large wooden cotton reel with cream coloured lacemaking thread .1 White sticker, "63" printed in black placed on Lace Maker .12 Eagley imprinted into one end of the reellace making machine, christina mckenzie lawrence -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Book, Lace machines and machine laces, 1986
... History and description of lace-making machines with many... History and description of lace-making machines with many ...History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.lace, lace making -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... lace making machine. It is Valenciennes in style which... to be a beautiful product of the Leavers lace making machine ...This lace appears to be a beautiful product of the Leavers lace making machine. It is Valenciennes in style which is a bobbin lace characterized by the diamond shaped net. Unlike comparable Mechlin lace it does not have a gimp thread outlining the pattern. Valenciennes lace originated in France but perhaps due to religious persecution later moved to Ypres in Belgium and was very popular in the 18th century. It was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace and was never used on expensive garments but reserved for bed linen, lingerie and the fichu. By the 19th century it was made by machine which made it cheaper and even more accessible.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with a floral design on a fine mesh background, and one scalloped edge.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Brighton Historical Society
Swimsuit, Miss Watersun
Polish-born designer David Waters first began producing swimwear in 1952. His mother Halina had recently opened a stall at Melbourne Queen Victoria Markets and was looking for swimsuits to sell; unable to find any she liked, she asked David to design something. He began making swimming costumes using his mother's sewing machine, in between his shifts working at a knitting factory. He had soon set up a small business in his parents' home, cutting patterns in one room while a machinist sewed them together in the next. His company, which he named Watersun, would become an iconic Australian swimwear label. During the early 1960s, Watersun developed its "Unquestionable Bra", an inbuilt moulded bra which was marketed as giving wearers a more natural bustline than other labels. The company was also known for its matching swimwear and beachwear, producing dresses, kaftans, tops and skirts in identical colours and prints to those used for many of its swimsuits. By 1967, the company was reportedly one of Australia's two biggest swimwear manufacturers, with over one hundred employees. Watersun was sold to Ada Productions in 1984 and was later acquired by Trackerjack Australasia. This swimsuit is believed to be one of a large quantity of samples, seconds and unsold Ada Productions stock donated to Brighton Historical Society in late 1990 by Brian Samuel, who worked at the company between 1979 and 1990.Blue and white gingham one-piece swimsuit. Short overskirt. Two rows of white cutwork lace form a frill along neckline and down either side of back straps, which fasten with buttons. Inbuilt bra with label: "Miss Watersun", size T14.Label in bra, blue with yellow sunburst logo containing the words “Miss Watersun” in red, above the text: “T14”swimwear, watersun, david waters, ada productions, miss watersun, melbourne designers -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is another machine lace made using a thicker crochet-like thread, quite possibly cotton judging by the texture. The geometric pattern has been made in the style of Torchon lace and it gives the appearance of softness and comfort. This lace is quite narrow (1.1cm) and was not made as an insertion lace but as a trim. It was most likely used as a trim on children’s underclothing and bed linen. It may have been used as a trim on a mob cap for a maid or a less senior member of the household. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Torchon machine lace, coarse crochet like thread. One fairly straight edge with picots. Other edge has clusters of elongated picots at even intervals. Geometric pattern insidechurchill island, lace, janet amess, lace collection, torchon -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
This beautiful piece has been hand embroidered with coloured thread onto a machine made net. The net would most likely have been made on a stocking frame or Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and the intricate handwork appears to be a mixture of needle run and tamboured embroidery. Needle run lace is simply outlined in thread and then filled in by darning and other stitches. Tamboured lace is made with a very fine metal or bone crochet hook making chain stitch with the net stretched out over a frame. Limerick lace from Ireland is just such a lace where the stitches used on the machine made net vary considerably. According to Pat Earnshaw, a British lace historian, there was one Limerick lace collar that used 47 different filling stitches. The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 when he brought 20 girls from England to set up a lace making school. Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. This delicate example is from the 1920s and was cut from a larger piece which was most likely attached to an item of sleek underwear. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Machine made net with coloured hand embroidery. Cut from larger piecelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, embroidery, tamboured lace, limerick lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
Here we have a delicate example of chemical lace which is 7.6cm x 48cm. This is an interesting method of lace making where the lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat. A remnant of the sacrificial fabric can be seen on the top of this piece. Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by three generations of Amess women - Jane, Janet and Unity (Bright - donor). Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island.Length of lace trimPackage contains note: FICCHU c1860/70 (hand made) [not associated with this item]churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Jabot
A Jabot, from the French meaning ‘a bird’s crop’, is a decorative clothing item consisting of fabric or lace designed to fall from the throat suspended from or attached to a collar or neckband or simply pinned at the throat. Jabots made of lace were an essential male upper class fashion item in the baroque period but in the late 19th century a jabot would be a cambric or lace bib decorating women’s clothing and it would be held in place with a brooch or a sewn in neckband. This example with its exquisite chemical lace trim could possibly even be clerical in nature. Jabots continue to be worn to this day in the field of Law and in highest formal Scottish evening attire. The lace is embroidered onto a sacrificial fabric which has been treated (initially chemically treated) to dissolve in a chemical solution on completion without damaging the lace. The chemicals used were not environmentally friendly and consequently this method of lace making has developed to use water soluble base fabrics or fabrics which will disintegrate with the application of heat Originally chemical lace was made on a home embroidery machine but is now also known as Schiffli Lace and made on a Schiffli machine. This machine was invented by Isaak Grobli in 1863 using the same principles as the newly invented sewing machine except that the bobbin of the sewing machine was replaced by a shuttle shaped like the hull of a sail boat, hence the name ‘schiffli’ which means ‘little boat’ in Swiss-German. The Schiffli machine uses two threads and makes a stitch similar to a closely spaced zigzag stitch on a domestic sewing machine. Over time the number of needles and shuttles increased until the present day when some machines can be up to 18 metres in length and use over a thousand needles. Previously the pattern was followed by hand using a pantograph arm where the operator followed the design pattern but the development of computer technology has meant that software designed to drive Schiffli machines can now create a wide variety of stitches and lace designs.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Jabot with chemical lace trim.Package contains note: "FICHU c1860/70 (hand made)lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, insert, amess, jabot -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Trim, Black Beaded
At 11cm in width, this lavishly embroidered lace would have been used as a trim or an insertion piece for evening wear, perhaps as a trim on the bodice of an off the shoulder evening gown. It comprises two layers: a strong base possibly machine made and a fine top layer luxuriously embossed with sequins and bugle beads which was possibly done by hand. It appears to have been made using matte black silk which was known as grenadine and used on the Pusher machine which could only make the pattern and the net. The outline had to be put in by hand. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. length of black beaded trim with two layers: machine made lace with hand-stitched overlay of sequins and jet cylindrical beads in abstract designs.Packaged with note: "Black beaded trimming (hand beaded)".janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, sequined, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This sample of lace trim is Torchon lace in the Cluny style with the geometric pattern and the classic wheat ears/leaves appearing between the filled ‘v’ shapes. At 5cm in width it would be a beautiful trim or insert piece on bed linen and undergarments. It would certainly have been made on a Barmen machine. The Barmen lace machine was developed in Germany on the 1890s. Its bobbins imitated the movement of the bobbins of a handmade lace maker and it made perfect copies of Torchon and other similar bobbin laces. This style of bobbin lace was the simplest to make and therefore the cheapest lace to buy. In the Elizabethan era the wearing of lace was reserved for the nobility and anyone of lesser standing than a knight who dared to wear lace would be publicly whipped. As the years passed the restrictions lessened gradually and in the late Georgian and Victorian eras ladies of the nobility sought to perform good deeds by teaching women and girls of the poorer classes to make lace and thus it became known as beggars lace. Bobbins were expensive and use was made of animal bones and even fish bones to perform as bobbins therefore another common name was bone lace. Many noble women entered a religious order and these nuns would also teach to skill to willing participants as well as making lace for clerical garments. Although the monarchy restricted the wearing of lace for some time, many royal figures in history did a great deal to popularize it. Two noteworthy examples were Queen Adelaide (1792-1849) and Queen Victoria.(1819-1901).The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made Torchon lace in Cluny style, with geometric patterns and wheat design, probably on a Barman (Swiss) machine. janet amess lace collection, churchill island, lace, trim, amess, barman, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is a machine made length of lace which has been executed in the Cluny style. Cluny lace is a bobbin style lace which is worked in a continuous piece and is heavily plaited in geometric designs. It is believed to have originated from copies of designs in the Musee de Cluny in Paris. There is a company in Ilkeston in the United Kingdom called The Cluny Lace Company which is still making both Cluny and Valenciennes lace using Leavers machines. The Mason family started making lace in the 1760s at the start of the Industrial Revolution. For two centuries the five generations of the family have paid close attention to detail and have brought the company to the forefront of new technology. Many of the lace patterns still used today were designed and draughted by Frank Maltby Mason and Francis Bowler Mason, the sixth and seventh generations of the family. They have developed a data bank of designs over this time and by combining the best of old traditions with new technology the firm is able to produce a wide range of exquisite designs of Leavers Cluny style lace allovers, edgings and insertions. This lovely insertion would be well suited to decorate a mob cap or on bed linen and nightwear.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of machine made Cluny-style lace trim with repeating diamond pattern on the border, and a central geometric/floral motifchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, machine, amess, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
This piece has been labelled by the Lacemakers Guild as ‘Imitation Valenciennes’which leads one to assume that it is machine made and created to look like a handmade Valenciennes trim Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front). It was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy and this section is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machineChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Imitation Valenciennes length of white lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town... of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town ...This piece is a beautifully preserved machine made copy of Valenciennes style lace as can be seen from the diamond shaped ground. This would have been made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of the hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with diamond groundjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... on the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town... Machine made Valenciennes lace This piece is amachine made copy ...This piece is amachine made copy of Valenciennes bobbin lace with many-legged spiders and a simple oval and circle pattern. Again it is worth noting that hand-made Valenciennes lace was very costly and time consuming (e.g., a pair of ruffles valued at £160 would take the lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to complete) therefore the advent of machine made copies was welcomed although the Barmen made lace was more expensive that that made on the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lacejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
Whether machine made or handmade, this length of trim is dainty and delicate in the true Valenciennes style. Circles surrounding six-petalled flowers with little spiders above and below where the circles meet, it is quite beautiful. The diamond ground is typically Valenciennes as is the pattern of flowers. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. This trim is also suited to trimming a mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Valenciennes lace with floral motifs with six petals enclosed within a circular motif.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... This is a very dense machine made lace reminiscent... dense machine made lace reminiscent of a Valenciennes style ...This is a very dense machine made lace reminiscent of a Valenciennes style. The folk art style roses and interconnecting six petal flowers are set into quite a dense net ground. The trim appears to have been made on a Pusher machine - although it was only able to make the lace pattern and the net. Any outline had to be filled in later by hand using an embroidering machine. Nottingham stopped making Pusher lace probably in the early 20th century but it continued to be made in France. The Pusher machine was a variation on John Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine developed by Samuel Clark and James Mart in 1812. It takes its name from the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. The Jacquard apparatus was adapted to it in 1839. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. section of lace trim, with very dense valenciennes pattern, small lowers and leaves interwoven with larger motifschurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... versatile of all machines for making patterned lace and Leavers lace... of the most versatile of all machines for making patterned lace ...A broad and luxurious lace this length would be a beautiful trim on a lady’s gown. It appears to be a copy of a Carrickmacross Irish lace where - when handmade - the motifs are embroidered onto a muslin and net sandwich and the excess muslin is cut away. This 142.5cm length however is machine made and was very likely made on a Leavers machine which was another adaptation from John Heathcoat’s machine with the Jacquard patterning device being adapted to it in the 1830s. It was developed by John Levers in Nottingham but the ‘a’ was added to the name for ease of pronunciation in France. The Leavers machine is one of the most versatile of all machines for making patterned lace and Leavers lace was Nottingham’s chief lace product until recently.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Length of lace trim with scalloped edge and straight selvage edge, floral design on net ground. Machine madechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece x 2
These pieces replicate bobbin lace as can be seen by the fine knots in the diamond shaped net ground and the gimp or outline has been given the appearance of being tamboured in a fine chain stitch. These cotton lace pieces have been cut from a larger piece which by shape and size appear to have been intended for a collar. They are machine made and very likely were woven on a Leavers machine with the chain stitch outline being added by a Bonnaz/Cornely machine. The Leavers machine, once coupled with the French Jacquard machine in the late 1830s, made excellent copies of any handmade lace which could be reproduced much more cheaply and much faster than the time consuming handmade laces. The Jacquard machine was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard and was first demonstrated in 1801. It worked by threading a series of interlaced punched cards through the machine with each row of holes in the cards corresponding to a row in a textile design. The Jacquard loom influenced the future development of computer technology and its attachment to the Leavers net making machine opened the ability to recreate countless varieties of formerly handmade lace.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929Two triangles of lace cut from a larger piece, machine made, floral and leaf decorationchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This fine lace trim at 1.6cm width is quite narrow, the pattern is geometric in style with one side a selvedge and the other a gracefully scalloped picot edging. It appears to be made of cotton although it could be silk, and ostensibly looks to be a Cluny lace style of bobbin lace which is heavily plaited and worked in one continuous piece. Cluny lace is geometric in pattern often with thin radiating wheat ears. This machine made lace would have been made on a Barmen machine which was developed in Germany in the 1890s and was capable of making perfect copies of Torchon and other simple bobbin laces such as Cluny. The machine developed from a braiding machine and uses bobbins which imitate the hand movement of hand-made lace makers. This fine lace trim may adorn a child’s collar and cuffs or trim a finely pleated blouse. It may also trim a mob cap or a shawl.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.machine made lace trim with selvage edge on one side and scalloped edge with picots, geometric interior churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, trim, amess, cluny -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Combination Undergarment, late 19th or early 20th century
This item of underclothing, called a "combination" is one of several linen and clothing items belonging to the deceased estate of Susan Henry OAM (nee Vedmore 1944 - 2021) that was donated to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. Susan's family (Harold and Gladys Vedmore) immigrated to Australia from Wales in 1955 and settled in Warrnambool. Susan was well known in the Warrnambool community for her work supporting children and families across the district - particular those with disabilities, or those who were homeless, unemployed or isolated. Susan was the founding trustee of the "Vedmore Foundation" - a Warrnambool philanthropic trust set up in 2010 to support a range of charitable and not-for-profit causes by providing grant assistance. In 2021, she was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia for services to the community. Combination undergarments combined the chemise and drawers into one garment. The combination is divided, or bifurcated, from the waist to the crotch for easier urinating. This one-piece type of underwear was worn by females from the 1860s and into the early 1900s. The 19th Century garments had front button closures like this one, and those made in the 1900s more often had back closures. Combination underwear was popular because the all-in-one design had far fewer gathers and bulk, making the other clothing look much smoother. Their primary use was to protect clothing from perspiration and because they were made with cotton or linen, were easy to wash. This particular item is made with lawn (a very lightweight fabric) and is sleeveless, making it suitable for hot weather. Although they were worn under the corset next to the skin (and therefore not meant to be seen), they were often decorated with lace or embroidery. This item is an example of the needlework skills of women in the late 19th century - using machine stitching and lace to personalise and embellish a practical item of clothing. It is also significant as an example of a practical solution to the difficulties that women of this era faced with regard to the washing of clothes and household linens.Lady’s white lawn and lace all-In-one combination undergarment. The handmade underwear is a combined chemise and bloomers. It has four buttons in the front and is trimmed with lace on the neckline, armholes, bodice (in a diagonal design) and legs. The left and right sides are divided from the waist to the crutch. The back of the garment is plain with a gathered section at the lower back.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, combinations, lady's combinations, undergarment, lingerie, handsewn, underwear, clothing, victorian era undergarments, lady's garment, susan henry oam, vedmore foundation -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Clothing - Petticoat, late 19th century to early 20th century
This petticoat was one of several items donated from the estate of Susan Henry OAM nee Vedmore (1944 - 2021). It is in very good condition and appears to be from the Edwardian era - early 20th century. A petticoat is a lady's undergarment - worn under a skirt or dress. They provided warmth, modesty and shape to the dress. In the middle of the 19th century, petticoats were worn over hoops, bustles or in layers. Petticoats varied according to the style of the outside skirt or dress. Plain petticoats tended to be worn with everyday wear whilst better dresses (party dresses or silk gowns) were worn with petticoats that often had more trim and embellishments. Edwardian petticoats had less volume than Victorian era petticoats and they had a "dust ruffle" or lining under a lace flounce. The "dust ruffle" protected the lace flounce and gave the petticoat more flare at the bottom, greater freedom when walking as well as saving the flounce (which was often made of finer material) from everyday wear and tear. Tucks are another feature of Edwardian petticoats - when the lace at the bottom became worn, it could be cut off and the tucks released. This extended the life of the petticoat. This petticoat features an intricate trim of broderie anglaise. Although broderie anglaise was a lace that could be made by hand, it was very time consuming to make. St Gallen was a city in Switzerland that had become known for producing quality textiles. At the beginning of the 19th century, the first embroidery machines were developed in St Gallen. Factories used embroidery machines but people also had them in their homes. They were able to produce broderie anglaise for export. By the early 20th century, machine made lace, fabric, ribbons etc. were being sold in drapers shops all over England and Wales to women who were making clothes and furnishings for their families. It is highly likely that the lady who made this petticoat brought the lengths of broderie anglaise already made to embellish and personalise her petticoat. Susan's family (Harold and Gladys Vedmore) immigrated to Australia from Wales in 1955 and settled in Warrnambool. Susan was well known in the Warrnambool community for her work supporting children and families across the district - particular those with disabilities, or those who were homeless, unemployed or isolated. Susan was the founding trustee of the "Vedmore Foundation" - a Warrnambool philanthropic trust set up in 2010 to support a range of charitable and not-for-profit causes by providing grant assistance. In 2021, she was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia for services to the community.This item is an example of the needlework skills of women in the late 19th century - creating pintucks and adding lace to personalise and embellish a practical item of clothing. It is also significant as an example of a practical solution to the difficulties that women of this era faced with regard to the washing of clothes and household linens.A white lawn petticoat with a 22.5 cm opening that fastens with 2 small buttons and a drawstring tie. It is decorated with two wide pintucks followed by two gathered frills (or flounces) - one decorated with three rows of narrow pintucks and a single row of broderie anglaise and the bottom frilled hem finished with 3 rows of broderie anglaise in a flower design. The two bottom frills are lined with plain white cotton fabric.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, petticoat, lady's petticoat, undergarment, lady's undergarment, lingerie, edwardian petticoat, broderie anglaise, lace, machine made lace, hand sewn, machine sewn, draper's shop, susan henry oam, vedmore foundation -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Textile - Lace Piece
Part of a travelling salesman's lace samples from Plauen, East Germany, a lace making town since 13th Century.4 sample pieces of cream machine made lace stitched to backing board.On display stand ' C. R. Eichhom Plaven I. V. 'handcrafts, lacemaking -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a machine made copy of a Brussels lace applique or Brussels Point border which has most likely been cut from a larger piece, perhaps a wedding veil or a net for a baby’s cradle. There are two main types under the Brussels lace heading, one is Brussels Pillow lace which is a bobbin lace and the other is Brussels Point lace which is needle run. Belgium or Flanders was one of the premium lace making centres in Europe for two reasons, one that the flax grown in the region was of a very high quality and secondly the highly skilled lace workers living in the area. The flax harvest and linen production was jealously guarded and along with neighbouring Holland which in the 16th century was joined to Belgium as Spanish Netherlands, there were many flat areas to lay out the linen for bleaching in the sun. The flax was spun into the finest linen thread in rooms kept damp to prevent the thread from becoming too brittle and the one ray of sunlight allowed was directed onto the thread. The quality of the linen made Brussels lace extremely popular for centuries and it kept pace with the changing fashions of Europe. Not all of the lace labelled as ‘Brussels’ comes from that area, the name has been given as a type rather than a source and there are many types of lace under that name. Because of the quality and the standard of the linen used, Belgian lace was one of the last types of lace to be imitated in the 19th century by mass production machinery. Because of the close chain stitch evident in this piece, a Cornelly machine may have been used to embroider this design onto machine made net.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim, with finely worked sprays of flowers intertwined with foliage and abstracted branches.Package with note "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Tape lace, Early 20th Century
Tape lace in the making. The lace is incomplete and still attached to the backing cloth. It is shaped - possibly as an edging for a tray cloth. Home made or hobby lace.Tape lace edging. Incomplete. Machine made tapes with needle made fillings. -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Machine - Lace Making Pillow
... with cotton attached lead cotton to pattern. Machine Lace Making ...American lace loom. Victorian substitute for the usual lac maker's cushion.Lace making loom on blue plush base. Round cylinder with wooden handle. Green base on cylinder with pins to form lace pattern. 32 wooden bobbins with cotton attached lead cotton to pattern.handcrafts, lacemaking