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Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Book, Lace machines and machine laces, 1986
... Lace machines and machine laces ...History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.History and description of lace-making machines with many illustrations of machine-made lace.lace, lace making -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Fichu, C 1860
Fichu is a term used replacing the kerchief or neckerchief and comes from the French. It was worn over the shoulders to preserve modesty for low necklines or to conceal the bodice hooks or laces used for closing. This hand-made Maltese lace fichu is exquisitely worked in silk. Judging by the photos provided it is quite large and would possible used to cover evening décolletage. It appears to be around 30cm in width and about 70cm in length and being silk would be quite warm for the lady wearing it and indicate social status and wealth. Maltese lace became very popular after being displayed at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. It began as a needle lace but Lady Hamilton Chichester imported lace makers from Genoa in the mid 1800s and converted the needle lace patterns to be worked on bobbins which made it quicker. The lace is worked on long thin lace pillows and usually includes the 8 pointed Maltese Cross in the pattern, it is made in narrow widths which are sewn together to make bigger pieces such as in this fichu. Another feature of Maltese lace is the “wheat ears” or in this case petals made of plaits or tallies. There is so much work in this piece as all of the flowers are worked so close together that they appear to be solid fabricThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess womenBobbin silk Maltese silk bobbin lace 6 petal tallies. Lace fichupackaged with note "Fichu Maltese Lace c 1865"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bobbin, maltese, silk, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 8
At just 20.6cm in lace length and 27.5cm wide, this section of Torchon machine made lace is quite possibly a sampler for future purchases being a mixture of edging and insertion pieces. Torchon lace is a bobbin lace which is coarse and strong and was made all over Europe a characteristic of which was that the design and the ground were made in one continuous piece as opposed to motifs joined by brides. In 1809 John Heathcoat created a machine made net which didn’t unravel when cut and by 1870 every type of hand made lace had a machine made copy. Hand made lace as an industry virtually disappeared by 1900 and these machine made pieces were comparatively cheap.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Cheap Torchon machine lace Packaged with note: "Scraps of lace found jumbled with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
This is a machine made copy of a Brussels lace applique or Brussels Point border which has most likely been cut from a larger piece, perhaps a wedding veil or a net for a baby’s cradle. There are two main types under the Brussels lace heading, one is Brussels Pillow lace which is a bobbin lace and the other is Brussels Point lace which is needle run. Belgium or Flanders was one of the premium lace making centres in Europe for two reasons, one that the flax grown in the region was of a very high quality and secondly the highly skilled lace workers living in the area. The flax harvest and linen production was jealously guarded and along with neighbouring Holland which in the 16th century was joined to Belgium as Spanish Netherlands, there were many flat areas to lay out the linen for bleaching in the sun. The flax was spun into the finest linen thread in rooms kept damp to prevent the thread from becoming too brittle and the one ray of sunlight allowed was directed onto the thread. The quality of the linen made Brussels lace extremely popular for centuries and it kept pace with the changing fashions of Europe. Not all of the lace labelled as ‘Brussels’ comes from that area, the name has been given as a type rather than a source and there are many types of lace under that name. Because of the quality and the standard of the linen used, Belgian lace was one of the last types of lace to be imitated in the 19th century by mass production machinery. Because of the close chain stitch evident in this piece, a Cornelly machine may have been used to embroider this design onto machine made net.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim, with finely worked sprays of flowers intertwined with foliage and abstracted branches.Package with note "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar, c 1865
The 8 pointed Maltese Cross is blatantly evident at the centre of the piece being worked in cloth stitch and the plaited tallies or “wheat ears’ form the floral surrounds. At 32cm in length it could be applied to a low necked bodice and form a v shape at the waistline however this beautiful piece appears to have been attached to the bodice at the neckline. It would have been quite elegant on a dark coloured bodice. This type of bib collar may have been originally joined to another section of lace to attach it around the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Bobbin Silk, Maltese Silk, hand made bobbin lace. Packaged with note: "Lace collar Maltese Lace"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bobbin, maltese, silk, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
At 38.8cm on its widest edge this delicate lace collar would sit nicely across the shoulders with the collar points extending approximately 10cm onto the bodice. It is a fine example of hand embroidered Limerick lace and the variety of stitches used is clear to see. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The darning and buttonhole stitches are quite obvious in this piece. According to the British lace historian, Pat Earnshaw, there was one Limerick lace collar that was decorated using 47 different filling stitches. In addition, needlerun forms were often combined with tamboured outlines to add further contrast.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand embroidered Limerick lace collar, with three straight edges trimmed with an oval motif, and a fourth semi-circular with simple reinforcement.Packaged with note: "Limerick Lace Collar"lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, collar, clothing, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece Border on Net
This machine made net (76cm x 38) is trimmed on the edge with a tamboured design in the style of Limerick lace. Machines were so proficient in copying handmade lace that it is very difficult to tell if the trim is done by hand or by machine. Tambour lace was the earliest form of Limerick lace and was worked in chain stitch onto machine made net using a very fine crochet hook, so fine in fact that some practitioners used a sewing needle with the eye cut out and the pointed end inserted into a wooden handle.The lace industry in Limerick was started by Charles Walker in 1829 Many Irish women who learned the craft worked from home but Walker knew that he would get more consistent and cleaner work if he could oversee the work being done so he built a factory for the women. Limerick lace lost popularity after Walker died in 1842 but was revived in the late 1880s and continued to be made into the 20th century but never reached the heights of the Walker period. If this pattern is machine made it would have been made using a Bonnaz machine which was later called a Cornely machine. Antoine Bonnaz (1836 – 1915), a silk machine engineer, produced the first successful industrial chain stitch machine. His patent was finally acquired by Ercole Cornely in Paris who developed a hook shaped needle that could make a line of chain stitches. Initially these machines were only available in northern France but they were so popular that they were eventually exported to the rest of the world and are still being produced today. This lace edging is quite fine and would only be about a centimetre in width and so would be subtle in effect, perhaps to be used on undergarments or as a fichu for day wear.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was added to and refined over the course of three successive generations of women.Machine made net, trimmed with tamboured design in style of Limerick lace.Note in package "LIMERICK LACE TRIMMINGS"lace, janet amess lace collection, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Mob Cap, Budoir
A mob cap was worn over the hair when indoors working and a hat could be placed over it when going outdoors. It was quite reasonable to receive visitors while wearing a mob cap. This cap has been labelled as a ‘boudoir’ cap to be worn over curlers or to keep a lady’s hair in place overnight. It is made of cotton and has beautiful torchon lace inserts with the same lace trim around the edge. This torchon lace is a handmade bobbin lace using soft cotton thread.in a simple design of filled diamonds alternating with spiders. These caps were worn by women in Georgian times and called a ‘bonnet’. The term ‘mobcap’ may have come from the Dutch or French languages but the name was cemented during the French Revolution when most of the revolutionary women were wearing these caps. During the Victorian era they were mostly worn by servants or nurses.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. white cotton mob cap, with central lace section in the form of a crossPackaged with note: "White cotton handmade lace mob cap"lace, lace collection, churchill island -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Chemise, c 1850
This is an elegant chemise formerly owned by the grandmother of Mrs Janet Amess and dated approximately 1850. It is made of Limerick lace embroidered on to square net (which is now unprocurable) and it opens at the front. The chemise was an undergarment worn against the skin and underneath the corset therefore fine fabrics were favoured. Limerick lace originated in Ireland with tambour lace which was applied on to net using a very fine hook with chain stitch. A later development was run lace where the design was marked out on net using a needle with cotton thread. The design was then filled using darning and decorative stitches. The Limerick lace industry began in the Irish city of Limerick and blossomed in the first Golden Age of Irish lace making (1820 – 1860) before the onset of the depression and the Potato Famine. The handwritten note included with this garment clearly illustrates their ongoing interest and the value that the Amess ladies placed upon the history of lace garments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Limerick lace, open at front. Square net.Packed with note"Real Limerick Lace undergarment" and two notes in Janet Amess' writing see 0036lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, limerick, square net, amess, garment, undergarment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Black Lace Front
This lace front is another example of Pusher lace using matte black silk called grenadine. The head opening has yet to be cut out and the panel itself was most likely made for a specific garment possibly in a contrasting paler colour to show off the leafy pattern The Pusher machine is a variation of Heathcoat’s Bobbinet machine and was so called for the rods which pushed the carriages through the machine. There appears to be an outline on the leaves which would have had to be worked either by hand or by embroidery machine.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Rectangular section of lace with intricate leaf design and a matte circular section. Designs are reinforced with multiple layers of stitching.Packaged with note: "Black lace "Front" with neckline hole"churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Bed Jacket, c 1860
Another delicate item, this bed jacket has been made with machine made cotton net which has seams joined with bobbin tape. The hand appliqued motifs on the back of the jacket are possibly Princess lace which is a type of tape lace made in Belgium in the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries. There are two types of Princess lace, one is where the tape shapes are sewn on to net and the other is where the shapes are linked together to form a type of guipure lace. This could be an example of the former known as an applique lace. Unfortunately one of the cuffs has become detached. Packaged with note: "Limerick lace bed jacket Janet Amess 1860 from Kel Bright collection with separated cuff" Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Motifs hand sewn on to machined net; bobbin tape on seams (NGV) Princess machine lace machine made motifs hand-applied Packaged with note: "Machined lace bed jacket. Janet Amess 1860. From Kel Bright Collection with separated cuff".janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, janet, amess, bed, jacket, garment, clothing, hand, sewn, bobbin, machine -
Hamilton Pastoral Museum
iron, Kenrick, 1900sCondition good some slight colrr
Small Lace iron with detachable handleLace Iron Kenrick -
Nhill & District Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - c 1860 Wedding dress of Erstine Schlisweg, 1860
Erstine Schlisweg married William Bosse in Germany in 1860, later settled in Nhill districtSettlers in Nhillc 1860 Three piece silk & lace wedding ensemble handmade in Germany, consisting of a silk full length skirt with lace & ribbon trim which hugs the waist, flows into a small train at the back; the high round neck, sleeveless bodice/top tucks into the skirt, is silk with pleats down either side of a lace panel in front; cape is silk, slightly gathered so it elegantly flows over the shoulders, finishing below the hips, is trimmed with lace around the neck and bottom. Lace & ribbon trims wedding dress, william bosse, erstine schlisweg, nhill, german - textiles - handmade -
Slovenian Association Melbourne
Idrija Lace doily, Marcela Bole Idrija Lace doily, 1928
circular Idrija lace doilyThe Idrija lace was inserted in a thin off-white linenidrija lace doily, tomaj, italian school, slovenia, slovenian association melbourne -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Craft - Reels of Lace Thread
Two spools of white lace threadHarris Lace Thread Flax No. 70 2 Cordhandcrafts, lacemaking -
Nhill & District Historical Society Inc.
Clothing - 1980 of Wedding dress of Debbie Jarred, Cassandra Gowns, 8 March 1980
Debra Jarred only daughter of Rex and Joan Jarred, of Broughton, married John Barber second son of Basil and Val Barber of Nhill, on 8 March 1980, at the Uniting Church, Broughton.Nhill family wedding; representing style of wedding dresses in 1980Wedding dress made by Cassandra Gowns; shoe string strap daisy lace bodice, with stand up collar of daisy lace and pleated skirt, elegantly covered with a cuffed long sleeve blouse, over skirt & belt of chiffon, flowing graceful soft train, finishing with a head-dress decorated in daisies attached to a long fine silk net veil.(2007.01.1) - Bouquet of white silk roses & ribbon(2007.01.2); white high heal lattice toe shoes with delicate ankle strap (2007.01.3), Blue lace garter & assorted crocheted bells, horse-shoe, and slippers, of satin ribbon (2007.01.4)daisy lace trim on cuffs and necklinewedding dress, 1980, broughton, debra jarred, debbie jarred, john barber, uniting church, rex & joan jarred, basil & val barber], nhill -
Clunes Museum
Domestic object - LACE MAKER
Includes; .1 Lace Maker .2 3 x samples of lace .3.Bill of Sale dated 7 March 1916 payment received with thanks C.H Coombe .4 Price list of Torchon Lace Co.229 Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia .5The Torchon Lace Making Booklet, 12th edition, copyright 1904 .6 Letter (undated) offering The complete lacemaking outfit .7 Document with customer reviews .8 Booklet "The Torchon Lace Maker (illustrated) Copy right 1904 All rights Reserved .9 30 x cardboard lace making patterns No. 20 Torchon Edging, Diamond Point Edging, Net Ground, 2 x Round Point Edging, Edging No. 11, Diamond Antique Edging, Jewel Insertion, Smyrna Edging, Rose Ground, Edging No. 24, Insertion No. 22, No.5 Twisted Hole Ground with "Spider". Spider insertion, Copenhagen Lace, Plain Hole Ground, Ornamental Ground Pin Check, Block Lace, Spider Lace, No. 18 Medici Lace, ZigZag Lace, Wide Antique Lace, Diamond Antique Edging, Block Lace, Jewel Insertion, Edging No. 24, Spider Lace, Zig-Zag Lace, Medici Lace, No. 21 Maltese Lace. .10 .35 x bobbins (8 with cotton) .11 2 x cream coloured lace doyleys with square linen damask machine sewn into the centre of the doyley. .12 Large wooden cotton reel with cream coloured lacemaking thread .1 White sticker, "63" printed in black placed on Lace Maker .12 Eagley imprinted into one end of the reellace making machine, christina mckenzie lawrence -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Textile - Lace Edging, 1920s
The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. This form of bobbin lace is made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. Maltese lace is worked as a continuous width tape lace on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow called a "Trajbu" and the Bobbins are called "Combini" . Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together. Lace made in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th century, when the economic depression in the islands nearly led to the extinction of lacemaking there. But in the mid 1800s, Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta. They used the old needle lace patterns and turned them into bobbin lace, which was quicker. It was not long after its introduction that the Maltese lace developed its own style from Genoese lace. Maltese lace was shown at The Great Exhibition of 1851 and it became popular in Britain. The style was copied by lacemakers in the English Midlands, and it was one of the sources for Bedfordshire lace. Maltese lace usually has the following characteristics which are useful for identification: It is usually made from cream silk. There is often the 8 pointed Maltese cross as part of the pattern, worked in whole or cloth stitch.The pattern may also have closely worked leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. These are plump and rounded in shape, rather than the long narrow leaves of other types of bobbin lace. Maltese lace edging. It shows the Wheat ears, characteristic of Maltese lacelace, maltese lace, lace tape -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
This elegant lace collar with reinforced strips was made with machine net and Battenburg lace. It would have been temporarily applied or tucked in to the neckline of a garment to stand erect on the neck. Battenburg lace was popular in the United States in the 19th Century and was made by attaching inexpensive cotton strips on to net as an outline for the design. This type of lace was named after a wedding in the Battenburg family occurred at around the same time for which the patent was applied in Washington DCThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Lace Collar with reinforced strips. Machine net and Battenberg lace. lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, battenberg, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
Torchon lace, also known as ‘beggars’ lace is one of the simplest forms of bobbin lace. This lace trim length (3cm x 65cm) which was hand made, is off-white in colour. The thread used is thicker than that used on the finer needlepoint laces and was originally worked in linen although cotton was also used. Due to its strength and softness it was favoured to be used as a trim on undergarments.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929length of lace trim, off-white colour; hand-made Torchon (duster) lace; used on underwearchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, trim -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Alencon type lace, Early 19th century
Lace probably made in Burano Italy in the style of 18th century French Alençon needle lace. Fine lace used as costume trimmingNeedle lace edging - sample -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Accessory - Handkerchief, 20th century
This fine lawn handkerchief has machine made lace trim. Although lace was being machine made from the 1600’s the design of the lace on this handkerchief is circa 1900’s. This handkerchief is a representation of fine needlework and women's fashion accessories in the late 19th and early 20th century.White fine lawn cotton handkerchief, square with machine made lace handstitched to lawn. Features two separate types of lace which are carefully cut on the edges. The design of the lace is circa 1900s.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, handkerchief, lace handkerchief, woman's handkerchief, women's accessory, fine fabric craftwork -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Textile - Lace Piece, 2022
Lace made by Vicki Jones EvansBlue lace piece, 7 circles, Teneriffe lace and bobbin.lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 5
At just 21cm in length and 27.5cm wide these machine lace pieces are most likely a sampler. Four of the pieces are insertion pieces, and the last is an edging piece. These samplers made ordering much more satisfactory than ordering from a catalogue. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery Noten packaged with panel "scraps of lace found jumbled in with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, embroidery, panel, amess -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Flemish lace, Early 18th Century
Very fine Flemish lace possibly from Antwerp. Fine lace used for costume trimmingBobbin lace edging. Sample -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Flemish Lace, Early 17th century
This lace is similar in appearance to Genoese collar laces but the thread is much finer and the lace softer. At the time it would have been an expensive fashionable lace trimming. This particular piece was borrowed and used as an illustration in Pat Earnshaw's book "The identification of Lace"Flemish lace edging attached to a piece of black fabric. -
Kew Historical Society Inc
Clothing - Maltese Lace Chemisette, 1900s
The Fashion & Design collection of Kew Historical Society includes examples of textiles dating from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Some of the textiles, were used as items of clothing, others as items of household decoration, or simply as travel souvenirs. These textiles were created both domestically and internationally. Predictably with the growth of an ethnically and culturally more diverse community in Kew after the Second World War, textiles, clothing and objects in the collection inevitably reflected this diversity. This form of bobbin lace is made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. Maltese lace is worked as a continuous width tape lace on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow called a "Trajbu" and the Bobbins are called "Combini" . Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together. Lace made in Malta was originally needle lace, from the 16th to the 19th century, when the economic depression in the islands nearly led to the extinction of lacemaking there. But in the mid 1800s, Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta. They used the old needle lace patterns and turned them into bobbin lace, which was quicker. It was not long after its introduction that the Maltese lace developed its own style from Genoese lace. Maltese lace was shown at The Great Exhibition of 1851 and it became popular in Britain. The style was copied by lacemakers in the English Midlands, and it was one of the sources for Bedfordshire lace. Characteristics of Maltese lace. Maltese lace usually has the following characteristics which are useful for identification. It is usually made from cream silk. There is often the 8 pointed Maltese cross as part of the pattern, worked in whole or cloth stitch.The pattern may also have closely worked leaves known as “wheat ears” or “oats”. These are plump and rounded in shape, rather than the long narrow leaves of other types of bobbin lace. Camisole, made of silk thread Maltese bobbin lace that is constructed of lengths of lace forming two rectangles with a hole for the neck. Shows the characteristic Maltese cross and wheat ears. Fabric is made of tape lace joined togethercamisoles, maltese lace, bodices -
Australian Lace Guild - Victorian Branch
Textile - Alencon type lace, Late 19th Century
Fine lace used as a costume trimming. A 19th Century imitation of French Alençon lace. Probably made in Burano Italy.Needle lace edging. Sample -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine