Black cotton with all-over gold paisley type floral patterning. Fully lined with brown cotton fabric. A slight train at the back hemline, and two V shaped flaps-one either side of the back opening, which probably accommodated bussell-like padding. The skirt is tightly gathered at the back to facilitate the padding. Front of skirt is flat, with a little easing of gathers. Pocket inside right hand side seam. A dark brown corded piping edges the hemline. Two metal hooks and eyes, fasten the waistband. Relocated to Clothing Box 176 10.2.2022costume, female, long black and gold patterned skirt

Operating heavily in the late mid-century, Smaragd of Melbourne was a premium boutique Australian label that catered to high-end social calendars, formal galas, and evening wear markets. During this era, Melbourne was firmly established as Australia’s fashion manufacturing capital. Labels like Smaragd competed directly with high-end European and American imports by offering local consumers equivalent luxury, using specialized, imported embellishments and meticulous, small-batch boutique construction. This ensemble is typical of mid-to-late 20th-century Australian fashion design, showcasing the exceptional structural tailoring and high-glamour aesthetic of the period. The inclusion of the matching cropped jacket reflects the transitional styling of late-1960s to 1970s evening wear, designed for formal modesty that could be removed for evening events. The use of heavy bullion embroidery or relief passamanerie highlights the reliance of local couture houses on advanced, labor-intensive hand-finishing techniques. This level of craftsmanship stands in stark contrast to the mass-manufacturing shift that would dominate the global fashion industry in the decades to follow. As an "Exclusive of Melbourne" garment, the piece holds strong regional significance to the history of the Australian textile trade. The preserved, illustrated "mod-style" label serves as an excellent artifact of graphic design history, capturing the youthful, playful marketing shift that defined the post-war youth culture boom in Australia.Two-piece evening ensemble comprising a strapless column gown and a coordinating cropped evening jacket. The floor-length gown features a highly structured, fitted bodice with internal boning and a classic sweetheart neckline. The skirt is tailored into a sleek, narrow column silhouette. The accompanying long-sleeved satin jacket is cropped to fit precisely over the gown’s waistline, featuring a rounded neckline, a concealed front closure, and tailored sleeves. Crafted from a heavy, high-sheen black evening fabric (consistent with silk or premium synthetic satin/mikado blend of the era). he neckline of the jacket (and the underlying gown) features a heavy, raised, three-dimensional metallic embellishment. The textured gold work is indicative of heavy bullion embroidery—a technique utilizing twisted, coiled metallic wire threads couched into dense, sculptural relief patterns to catch light. The garment contains a woven fabric manufacturer's label reading "Smaragd Exclusive of Melbourne / Size 12". The label is distinguished by a blue, stylized graphic illustration of a wide-eyed, curly-haired "mod doll," characteristic of commercial art from the late 1960s to mid-1970s.Label: SMARAGD EXCLUSIVE OF MELBOURNE. SIZE 12fashion - australia - melbourne, smaragd of melbourne, women's clothing, evening dresses, fashion design, clothing -- 1970s