Kathryn Knitwear, founded by Robert Blake, manufactured high quality children’s knitwear in Melbourne from the 1940s – 1980s. Robert Blake began manufacturing children’s knitwear in his bedroom in Strathmore using a hand powered machine in the late 1940s. The operation moved to Ascot Vale and Essendon, before eventually establishing a factory in Moonee Ponds in the early 1950s. The business continued to expand, necessitating a move to a new factory in Broadmeadows. By 1962, the Broadmeadows factory was producing an average of 20,000 garments per month, which increased to 24,000 by 1964. Robert Blake’s Son, Brendan recalls that “The Kathryn brand was famous around Australia, anywhere children needed to keep warm and dress smartly. It also won a number of wool fashion awards”, including the 1969 Wool Awards, which was held by the Australian Wool Bureau and published in Women’s Weekly. The Kathryn range was designed for durability, comfort and care, without sacrificing style. They used patterning techniques that increase stretchiness, comfort and fit, as well as integrating decorative elements into the fabric to prevent them from being bulky, uncomfortable or tight. Making longevity of style a priority, Brendan Blake remembers that “there was one particular garment that was in the range for at least thirty years”. He also recalls “In the past, when women have found out that I was associated with Kathryn Knitwear, they would often relate to me the story of a garment they had purchased or received as a gift and, when their child had grown out of it, they would hand it on to another child. Several ladies have told me of purchasing garments for their daughters’ glory box, or saving a particular garment after their daughter had grown out of it. Brendan Blake: “At the peak of their operation they employed approximately two hundred people, mainly women and girls. A family would often seek to send their daughter to work in this company because they knew they would be looked after and safe. One lady wrote to me telling me that working at the Moonee Ponds Factory prior to getting married was the happiest time of her life.” In 1963, workers at the Kathryn factory earned £13 per week, which was 8 shillings and 8 pence higher than the minimum weekly wage for female workers in the textile manufacturing industry (£12 11s 4d). By 1970, the Kathryn Knitwear brand expanded from children’s knitwear into womenswear under the brand name ‘Lady Kathryn’, and for boys and men under ‘Robert Blake’. Continuing to diversify their distribution, they also began exporting ‘Kathryn’ garments to New Zealand, the Pacific Islands, and Japan. ‘Kathryn Knitwear’ was well-known for their early adoption of modern materials and techniques that had broad appeal to their customer base. This is shown in their early use of the acrylic fibre ‘Orlon’ in the 50s and 60s and ‘Superwash’ wool in the 1970s. Many of Kathryn Knitwear’s styles, particularly those that were long running staples of the brand, were available in both wool and Orlon to suit the consumer’s preference. Wool has been renowned for its excellent properties for thousands of years, by people from all over the world. Not only good for thick winter woollens, it can help keep you cool in summer, as well as being durable and resistant to water, fire, ultraviolet light, stains and odour. In a world where wool garments all had to be washed by hand, the invention of machine-washable acrylic fibres and widespread adoption of washing machines in ordinary Australian homes in the 1950s and 60s posed a major risk to the wool industry, and by extension the entire Australian economy. With the price of wool falling, the CSIRO and the Australian Wool Board worked together from the 1950s on a number of developments to keep Australian wool competitive and desirable to the public, many of which came out of the Geelong research labs. While progress had been made in the preceding decades, 1970 saw a major breakthrough; the invention of a new method of making wool washable and shrink-proof, most commonly known as ‘Superwash’. It is a technology that is still highly used to this day, and is very recognisable to those who use commercial wool yarn to knit or crochet. Far from the humble origins of one man in his bedroom with a hand-cranked machine; at its closure in 1980, the Broadmeadows factory of ‘Kathryn’ housed more than 100 machines, including 53 sewing machines and 45 knitting machines. Robert Blake was “a passionate advocate for wool and Australian Made” throughout his whole life. A strong thread that ties through the lifespan of Robert Blake and Kathryn Knitwear is a balance between adopting new innovations without sacrificing the core values of durability, comfort, care and style that had made the brand so well known. Their legacy forms an integral part of both Australian social and manufacturing history.Blue wool turtleneck ‘skivvy’ jumper in all over rib pattern with long sleeves. .2) swing tag with woolmark logo for ‘Superwash Wool’1.)[white label at back neck with blue writing] KATHRYN REGD. (Woolmark Logo) PURE NEW WOOL Superwash SIZE 2 HGT. 92cm MADE IN AUSTRALIA 2.)[retail swing tag for ‘Superwash Wool’] [OBVERSE] [woolmark logo] [handwritten in blue pen] 314 [printed] PURE NEW WOOL [handwritten] 2 Superwash Wool Machine Washable [INTERNAL] [woolmark logo] PURE NEW WOOL YOU ARE NOW THE OWNER OF A SUPERWASH WOOL GARMENT That has been specially treated to withstand a lifetime of machine washing. SUPERWASH WOOL has all the desirable qualities of wool – soft handle, comfort, warmth and style. Not all wool knitwear has the SUPERWASH treatment so remember always to look for the special “SUPERWASH” label and swing ticket. To was SUPERWASH WOOL just follow the instructions of the garment label. [woolmark logo] PURE NEW WOOL SUPERWASH WOOL THE WOOL YOU WASH IN THE MACHINE.knitwear, children's knitwear, clothing, children's clothing, jumper, manufacturing, fashion textile production, machine knitting, csiro, national wool board, superwash, australian wool innovation

These wool undervests were purchased by Edith Bender for her husband Edwin, prior to 1963. Edwin would catch a ‘Red Rattler’ train along the North Shore line to go to work in Pitt Street., Sydney. Edith was concerned Edwin would catch a cold in the unheated train or in his unheated office, so she brought these woollen undervests for him to wear to work. Edwin would wear the undervests under a woollen suit and with a woollen overcoat. Edwin passed away in 1963, at which point Edith stored the undervests away. They were passed to Edith’s daughter when Edith passed away in 1980. They were then passed to Tanya Davis on the death of her mother. Tanya donated the undervests to the National Wool Museum in 2021.2x cream wool undervests. Henley style with short sleeves and three buttons at the front. Labels from the maker ‘Braemar’ have been stitched to the neckline of both vests. An additional label is stitched under the first button on the front of both undervests. Label stitched to neck of vest: BRAEMAR / MADE IN SCOTLAND / OPTIMUS / PURE WOOL / TREATED TO RESIST / SHRINKAGE / QUALITY / B. OPTIMUS Label stitched to front buttons of vest: MADE IN SCOTLAND / FOR FARMER’S / SYDNEY Attached swing tag: BRAEMAR / The WASHING of WOOLLENS / PREPARE a bath of good bar or flake soap, thoroughly dissolved in water not hotter than the hands can bear. Squeeze the garments through the hands several times in the bath. Don’t rub them on a board. Rinse in warm water until soap is thoroughly removed. Wringing should be done in the hands. Stretch well to width and length and dry at once, preferably in the open air Stretch again in the hands when dry. Attached swing tag. Reverse: IMPORTANT POINTS / Do not use soda or washing powders. / This garment must not be subbed on a board, or subjected to mechanical friction.red rattler, wool clothing

The wool for this jacket began on the back of two sheep many kilometres apart. The first fleece for the warp was shorn from a single Merino at Currotha in Moree, NSW. The wool was 21-22 micron and the bloodline is a cross between Bundemar, Rossmore and Eural. The second sheep that provided wool for the weft was shorn in Beaufort, Victoria. It was a single Corriedale fleece shorn at Niawanda. The distance between these two towns is approximately 1250kms; a 15-hour car ride between paddocks. The two fleeces were spun and weaved together by the donor’s mother, Marjorie Allnutt. A level of talent is required to spin Merino fleeces. It is easier to spin cross bred wool, such as Corriedale, because it is less dense and much easier to comb, card and then tease out for a spinning wheel. The donor Philip Allnutt had a suit tailored out of the completed fabric at Ravensdale J & Son, 37 Swanson Street, Melbourne. The tailor was then a member of the Master Tailors Federation of Victoria. The business closed around 1986. Adding to the jacket’s story is its relationship to the household board game “Squatter”. Marjorie Allnutt was the sister-in-law of Robert Crofton Lloyd, the inventor of the wool themed boardgame. With more than 500,000 games sold in Australia as of 2007, it is the most successful board game ever produced in the country. The original “Squatter” board game is located within the National Wool Museum’s Collection. Philip Allnutt donated the Jacket to the National Wool Museum Collection in 2021. Cream singled breasted jacket with a narrow overlap and one column of buttons for fastening. The jacket features notched lapels of a medium width and two buttons of a cream & brown marble. The jacket has three visible pockets. A jetted pocket with no flap is on the right breast. A further two jetted no flap pockets finish an inch above the hem, on either side of the opening. Internally, the jacket features a further two pockets and a white silk lining for comfort. At the cuffs, the jacket utilises another 2 buttons of the same cream & brown marble.merino, currotha, moree, nsw, niawanda, corriedale, beaufort, victoria, hand spun, hand weaved

Display board was once property of Port Macquarie Historical Society & Museum, but they de-accessioned it in 2016 before donating it to the National Wool Museum. Reason for de-accession was that it no longer fit with their collection aims, nor was it relevant to their location. Item appears to have been made in 1963, or at least using wool samples from 1963. Wool samples were grown by a S.F. PICKER at 'BIGGA' in New South Wales. No further information was given by donor.Light brown timber framed display board with glass cover. Light brown backing board with 25 wool samples taped to the board, each with a paper lable with printed text. Main label reads -WORLD RECORD PRICE / 1963...468d / SUPER FINE MERINO. / COUNT. 74/80. / GROWN BY. / S.F. PICKER. BIGGA. / N.S.W.-wool samples, wool sorting, wool breading

This tabard is one of a small number that were produced/woven by Japanese master weaver Jun Tomita during the period that he was resident artisan at the Jam Factory in Adelaide. The tabard incorporates Ikat/Kasuri woven central panels. Tomita was born in 1951 in Toyama prefecture, and is based in Kyoto, the textile centre of Japan. The technique he uses kasuri (the Japanese term for ikat) is selectively pre-dying yarns before weaving to create pattern. The other decorative features of this garment are based on Japanese family crest designs (kamon). The pointed shoulders of this garment are reminiscent of the stiffened shoulders of kataginu, the upper part of the kamishimo ensemble that was formal wear for samurai men. Tomita was at the Jam factory from 1976-78 and he has works in numerous public collections, including: - Stanthorpe Art Museum, Art Gallery of South Australia / Australia - Oslo National Gallery / Norway - National Museum of Israel / Israel - Stedelik Museum, Museum of Rotterdam / The Netherlands - Denver Art Museum, St. Louis Art Museum, Long House Foundation - Cooper-Hewitt Museum of Art/USA - Victoria and Albert Museum, UK - Toyama Prefectural Museum of Art, Japan The donor purchased this tabard from an exhibition held at Wool House in Parkville Victoria, which was sponsored by the Australian Wool Board to promote the use of Australian Wool in textiles and fashion at that time, around April/May in 1977. At that time (1976-1977) the donor owned and run a retail/display shop for craft products such as ceramics, artworks and jewellery. The donor subsequently retained this in storage with some other items since the business closed.Double sided reversible tabard featuring woven centrals panels. One side is navy blue with white and blue detail panels, one side is grey with green, brown and cream central panel detail.textile, tabard, japan, art, clothing, weaving, fashion, design, ikat, kasuri