Frances Burke: Designer of Modern Textiles Australia’s most influential and celebrated textile designer of the mid-20th century, Frances Burke (1904-1994), employed Australian native flora, garden flowers, marine subjects, Indigenous culture and increasingly, abstract motifs in her stunning modern fabrics. A confident, determined designer and businesswoman; Burke made the shift from fine art to design in 1937. While she began by designing dress fabrics for Melbourne’s fashionable Georges Department store, printing them on linen using lino blocks, she was an early adopter of the screen-printing process and during the war years began printing on cotton. Burke’s furnishing fabrics took their place in influential modern buildings Australia-wide through collaborations with leading architects and interior designers. They included Robin Boyd’s 1949 House of Tomorrow, Roy Grounds’ Quamby flats, Guilford Bell’s Royal Hayman Island Resort for Ansett Airlines, and Yuncken, Freeman Brothers, Griffiths and Simpson’s Canberra Civic Centre Theatre. In the post-war period, Burke made regular trips to the United States and Europe, on her return advising homeowners and manufacturers on the latest trends in products, colours and home design in lectures and interviews. At New Design her fabric showroom and interior design consultancy Burke introduced furniture by emerging designers Clement Meadmore and Grant Featherston in the early 1950s and presented local and imported homewares, mostly from the United States. She was enthusiastic about the convenient and comfortable lifestyle experienced by ordinary American women. Her fabrics and advice were regularly featured in Australian Home Beautiful, Australian House and Garden and the newspapers of the day. Some of Burke’s designs had remarkable longevity. Tiger Stripe (1938) for example, continued to be produced in a wide range of colours until 1970 and Crete (1946) remained a popular choice for interiors into the 1960s. Drawing from a rich variety of sources including Indigenous culture in Goanna (c.1954) and Pacific Island tapa cloth designs in Bird and Tree (1940), Burke also looked to Japan in designs such as Plum Blossom (1948) and Zen (1965). She loved exploring the potential of native flora, seen in designs including Waratah (1955) and Flannel Flower (1955), while garden flowers were the source for many other designs including Belladonna (1940), Periwinkle (n.d.) and Rose (1947). Burke’s clever interplay of a single striking printed colour with lively gestural lines revealing the white base fabric, gave her designs a vibrancy that characterised the optimistic post-war era. This can be seen in Burke’s fabrics for Hayman Island including Angel Fish and Seapiece (both 1949) which expressed the freshness and excitement of the luxurious new tropical resort and led to further commissions. Burke’s three decades in business (1937-1970) were an unparalleled success in the story of Australian design. Her fabrics have been collected by the NGA, the Powerhouse Museum, NGV, RMIT Design Archives and Sydney Living Museums in addition to Ararat Gallery TAMA. Written by Nanette Carter and Robyn Oswald-Jacobs.

White huckaback hand towel with flowers and 'Guest' embroidered in pinks, blues and green.manchester, bath linen

Fine needle lace use as costume trimming. The detail image shows typical tiered rose petals.Needle lace border

Textiles. A war time souvenir from Palestine. Pale gold silk, embroidered with a depiction of the''Mosque of Aman (?) Souvenir of Palestine, 1942, floral emblems and a bow. A 4cm long silk fringe in gold and reddish colours borders the cushion. Back of the cushion is gold coloured cotton. Machine and hand stitching. Possibly machine embroidery, in a ''chain-stitch'' pattern.Souvenir of palestine 1942. Mosque of Aman (?) (Omar).textiles, domestic, pale gold cushion from palestine.

Collector says: It was always satisfying to reunite matching blankets. One of these was acquired from a garage sale in Castlemaine and the other from The Mill Market in Daylesford.Note from collector- "For more than 100 years blankets were made all over Australia in over 100 woollen mills. My aim, is to preserve 100 examples of these wonderful pieces of history. Ten years ago I started collecting the iconic Onkaparinga travel rugs, so that on movie nights at home there would be plenty to go around. Everyone had their favourite; even the cat had his own – a small red tartan one. Keeping an eye out for those travel rugs at op-shops and markets, collectable stores and bazaars, led to noticing vintage blankets. I'd never really thought about them before or paid much attention though of course I had grown up with them at my grandmother's. When I discovered my first Laconia cream blanket with blue stripes, my eyes just went gaga. Well that was it, I was hooked and since then over 500 blankets have passed through my hands. These common, everyday items, found in all households for so many decades, were traditional engagement gifts. Pairs were prized wedding presents turning into family heirlooms. They were fashionable dressers of beds, givers of warmth, bestowers of security and reliability. The comfort found in these objects resonates with almost all of us; we grew up with them ourselves or fondly recall them in a grandparent’s home. There is no modern replacement with the integrity of these old blankets, many of them now older than most of us. They are romantic, sensible, special, familiar, nostalgic and nothing else feels so appropriate in so many situations. No offense to the great Aussie doona, but from hippie to hipster, at a music festival, picnic, campsite or couch, a vintage blanket is something coveted by all. This industry that employed tens of thousands and must have been such a huge contributor to the economy is almost completely lost now. Blanket Fever is an ode to everything that came before: the land, the sheep, the shearers, the hands, the mills, the weavers, the designers, the distributors, the department stores. To the grandparents that gave them, the people that received them, the families that kept them; thank you. I’m passionate about my collection of Australian blankets manufactured in mostly Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania from the 1930s to the end of the 1960s. The collection has blankets from each of these four decades representing the styles and fashions of their time and includes dated advertisements which help determine the eras the blankets are from." Double sized blanket, cream with salmon stripesThe Laconia Blanket/Guaranteed Odorless and Free From Filling/Made in Australia/Wool 70% Cotton 30%wool, cotton, blanket, blanket fever, laconia

Hankerchiefs have been used for centuries as a piece of cloth deemed useful for personal hygiene. They are usually kept in one's pocket but at times through history have been fluttered to attract attention or send a message. In harder times they proved to be a cheap item often used to add interest to an outfit. This item is one of five hankerchiefs which were brought back from France after WW1 by great uncles of Gloria Redman and have been passed down through her grandmother and mother. This item has significance as an item linked to a local family and World War 1 and as such has social, and historical significance. It is well provenanced and can be used to provide interest to the relating of a fairly common story whereby many soldiers brought or sent back small items such as hankerchiefs to their loved ones at home.Cream silk hankerchief with gold coloured blanket stitch on scalloped edge. Hot pink flowers with green leaves and stems are embroidered in each corner.warrnambool, silk hankerchief, embroidered hankerchief, ww1 embroidered hankerchief, redman

Use: Domestic. Household trimmingBobbin lace insertion

Folk ArtKlym, Krystyna Klym,Blue Flower Design, n.d, Cotton embroidery, Brimbank City Council Art Collection, BrimbankEmbroidered cotton fabrickrystyna klym, eastern europe, embroidery

Use: Domestic. Household trimmingBobbin lace edging. Sample

Cream cot cover with pom poms on fringing.children, babies, cot, sleeping, cover, blanket, pom poms

Hand-stitched tapestry by Monica Baker in 2001. Tapestry represents part of the family history of working in the wool industry as owners of a sheep property for five generations. The family ran Corriedale sheep in Lismore, Victoria.Brown timber framed woollen tapestry with cream mounting board. Tapestry is handstitched and features various colours. Scene depicts four men and a woman in a shearing shed. Two of the men are handling sheep, one man is weighing a fleece while the last man and woman look on. Back of frame has a horizontal hanging wire, a framers stamp at the bottom centre and a handwritten creators name and date at the top right corner.Back: [handwritten] "WEIGHING THE FLEECE" / BY MONICA BAKER / 02/03/01lismore, sheep breeding, tapestry, monica baker, shearing, hand made, corriedale

Almost square white, cotton supper cloth, with two 1" and one 2" wide lacy lines all around the tablecloth.table linen., household textiles., tableware, gibson collection

Use: Domestic: Household trimmingBobbin lace edging

Part of a collection of three blankets donated by Emily McNeight.Pink, blue and cream chequered blanket with aqua blue edging.label: Challenge / LAMBSWOOL / SUPER GRADE BLANKET / pure new woolwool, blankets, challenge woollen mills

This doily is typical of items of household linen in popular use in the 19th and early-to-mid 20th centuries. It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered and crocheted articles to take to their new home. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families) This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework.Doily, oblong overall oval in shape. Embroidered flowers of orange, yellow and brown with greenery and crocheted edging. From the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collectionflagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, doily, embroidery, needlework, crochet, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery

Used by Mrs Jean Ashcroft and probably worked by her. She came from Galashiels ScotlandWhite linen square with corner inserts of lace. Hemmed with scalloped hand crocheted bordermanchester, table linen

Embroidered Calico Tray Cloth with Willow Pattern Cup and Sauder. Bound with Blue Binding. Mrs Trickeystawell clothing material

Souvenir of unit member from his deployment to SECDET XI of Operation Citadel, BAGDAD-IRAQ, Mar-Sep 2007Souvenir prayer mat. Embroidered with flags of Australia, Operation Catalyst and Afghanistan, Rising Sun badge flanked by crossed swords, SECDET XI, Map of Iraq surrounded by "OPERATION CITADEL", BAGHDAD-IRAQ, kangaroo and camel, MAR-SEP 2007souvenirs, afghanistan, embroidery, emblems, iraq

A long white lace embroidered patterned cotton table runner for use on a table or sideboard. It has scalloped edging.table runners, table linen, table accessories, tableware, household textiles

Ivory silk negligee

Use: Domestic. Household trimming Bedfordshire type heading.Bobbin lace edging. Sample

This doily is typical of items of household linen in popular use in the 19th and early-to-mid 20th centuries. It was a tradition for brides to have a 'glory box' containing linen and embroidered and crocheted articles to take to their new home. In the Words of donor, Betty Stone, … “These crocheted and embroidered articles cover a period of three generations- ie. Sarah (nee Chamberlain) Lees, Ann (nee Lees) Dale, and Daisy Elvena (nee Dale) Welsh. All three were accomplished needlewomen; also, both Sarah Lees (born 1844) and her daughter, Ann (b 1865) crocheted a wide variety of articles for use in their homes. A few examples of these items have survived the years.” (NOTE: For additional information please refer to my book Pioneer and Places- A History of Three Warrnambool Pioneering Families ie. Chamberlain, Dale and Lees families) SIGNIFICANCE This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework.This item is associated with the Warrnambool pioneer families of Chamberlain, Dale and Lees. These families are listed in the Pioneers' Register for Warrnambool Township and Shire, 1835-1900, published by A.I.G.S. Warrnambool Branch. The item is a fine example of early 20th-century needlework. Doily, ovate cotton fabric with embroidered flowers of orange, blue, pink and red flowers with greenery and an orange circle with a white crocheted edge. From the Chamberlain Dale Lees Collection,flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, great ocean road, chamberlain family, dale family, lees family, betty stone, warrnambool pioneer, warrnambool genealogy, wangoom, chamberlain dale lees collection, glory box, doily, embroidery, needlework, crochet, handmade, craft, manchester, linen, haberdashery

From the collection of Bette JonesHardangar worked in 1970's colours of two shades of mustard and two shades of brown on beige cloth. Possibly cushion front, central cross within a diamond shape within a square.manchester, furnishings, handcrafts, needlework

Collector says: "I would stack plain blankets of the same base colour and arrange them by shade to make up a colour palette. It showed how particular colours were in fashion in the early decades, based mostly around depths of pastel pinks, mints, lemons and baby blues with brighter colours arriving in the 1960s then the browns and oranges in heavier tones in the 1970s.Collector's note: "For more than 100 years blankets were made all over Australia in over 100 woollen mills. My aim, is to preserve 100 examples of these wonderful pieces of history. Ten years ago I started collecting the iconic Onkaparinga travel rugs, so that on movie nights at home there would be plenty to go around. Everyone had their favourite; even the cat had his own – a small red tartan one. Keeping an eye out for those travel rugs at op-shops and markets, collectable stores and bazaars, led to noticing vintage blankets. I'd never really thought about them before or paid much attention though of course I had grown up with them at my grandmother's. When I discovered my first Laconia cream blanket with blue stripes, my eyes just went gaga. Well that was it, I was hooked and since then over 500 blankets have passed through my hands. These common, everyday items, found in all households for so many decades, were traditional engagement gifts. Pairs were prized wedding presents turning into family heirlooms. They were fashionable dressers of beds, givers of warmth, bestowers of security and reliability. The comfort found in these objects resonates with almost all of us; we grew up with them ourselves or fondly recall them in a grandparent’s home. There is no modern replacement with the integrity of these old blankets, many of them now older than most of us. They are romantic, sensible, special, familiar, nostalgic and nothing else feels so appropriate in so many situations. No offense to the great Aussie doona, but from hippie to hipster, at a music festival, picnic, campsite or couch, a vintage blanket is something coveted by all. This industry that employed tens of thousands and must have been such a huge contributor to the economy is almost completely lost now. Blanket Fever is an ode to everything that came before: the land, the sheep, the shearers, the hands, the mills, the weavers, the designers, the distributors, the department stores. To the grandparents that gave them, the people that received them, the families that kept them; thank you. I’m passionate about my collection of Australian blankets manufactured in mostly Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania from the 1930s to the end of the 1960s. The collection has blankets from each of these four decades representing the styles and fashions of their time and includes dated advertisements which help determine the eras the blankets are from."Queen sized blanket, soft pastel pinkWarranted 100% Pure Wool/The Famous "Doctor" Regd/Blanket Made in Tasmania/in Emblem "K&K" (first K mirror image)/Regdwool, blanket, blanket fever, the famous doctor, kelsall and kemp, tasmania

Anne Pedretti was born at Elevated Plains on 15 September 1875, the daughter of Martino Pedretti and Sarah Ind. She married George Gervasoni of Yandoit, and died at Dayesford on 13 August 1957. Annie Gervasoni was known for her crochet ability, and according to folklore could crochet the Lords Prayer without a pattern.Circular crocheted doily by Anne Gervasoni (Pedretti) of Daylesford. The doily was given to her future grand daugher-in-law, Kathleen Carroll who married John Hogan Gervasoni (Son of Gus Gervasoni and Elizabeth Hogan).crochet, doily, anne pedretti, anne gervasoni, dry diggings, pedretti, elevated plains, kathleen carroll, kathllen gervasoni, doiley, doilie