The Guiding Light structure was installed at AFB's Brighton office due to the efforts of President Bruce Small. Although removed some years ago, the structure was a symbol used by the Association for the Blind as a visual way to represent it's work within the community. 2 black and white images of the Guiding Light at Elanora Guiding Light symbol presented by Sir Bruce Small, connected with AFB's new wing Elanora S.E.C. of Victoria Printing and Photography Centre 23 Oct 1969 Neg No: E.E. 336/2, 336/3.association for the blind, state electricity commission of victoria

The Australian Comforts Fund official history documents the organisations role in caring for all fit & well members of the Australian Forces during the Second World War.Blue buckram hard cover, title in gold letters on spine only. 336 pages with cut edges, black & white illustrations.books- history, social, military history

Miss Catt boarded in Roadknight Street, Lakes Entrance, in 1924, and walked all the way to Bunga Creek school from Lakes Entrance.Black and white photograph showing Miss Catt, teacher at Bunga Creek Primary School No. 336, East Gippsland. Bunga Creek Victoriaschools

Brown hardboard cover with gold detailing on the spine Blue spine label ' Lord Lytton's Novels - Lucretia' xiv ; 336 pages ; 19cm Handwritten inscription on front page '90' Stamp on various pages 'Kilmore Mechanics Institute'lord lytton, kilmore mechanics institute library.

Black and White Photograph of a cable set - trailer 336 - at the Toorak Road terminus c1924. Shows an interesting set of workers and the gripman. Printed on Kodak Paper.On rear in ink a description - see image i2 and KSK number "S-A-827"trams, tramways, cable trams, toorak rd, gripmen, passengers, tram 336

Articles on various topics, including Melbourne Labour Market, Storm Centre of Asia, Beechworth Goldfields, Wirrengren-Kulkyne Pathway, Messrs Gellibrand and Hesse. 336 pages.Soft cover book, front cover has title in dark grey on cream background. Picture of a lady looking to the right. Volume, number and date and Royal Historical Society of Victoria at the bottom. Spine is black with white writing. Back is brown with Royal Historical Society logo and address.melbourne labour market, storm centre of asia, beechworth goldfields, wirrengren-kulkyne pathway, mr gellibrand, mr hesse

Official launch photograph of W2 336 as part of the Transporting Art project of 1978. For the principal pamphlet using this photograph featuring the first 15 tramcars see item 404. Yields information about the Mike Brown Transporting Art tram of 1978.Colour print with remnants of mounting paper on rear.tramways, transporting art, w2 class, tram 336, mike brown, trams

Buff coloured document: invoice issued by Myer Emporium Mail Order Dept, 314 - 336 Bourke Street, Melbourne, number 3441, dated 27.12.46., '1 corset ( 4 coupons) 2/2/6d.bendigo, business, myer emporium, myer, corset, underwear, world war 2, coupons

Schedule of prizes (including Champion prizes of Australia), Sixty-fifth Grand Agricultural Exhibition, 17th to 26th September, 1936. The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria; Melbourne (Vic); 1936. 336 p.; illus.; index to advertisers. Soft cover. agriculture; horses; cattle; sheep; pigs; poultry; birds; farm produce; machinery; dairy produce; wine; fruits;

Title page has brief biography and photo of Alan Keith Geier who served on HMAS Perth and photo of Pte Clem Geier (Alans brother) on other side who donated this book. Refer 601 for Alans service history also 599P.Softcover book with photos on front and back covers. Front cover has black and white image of HMAS Perth with crew taken from bow looking astern. Includes photos on inside front cover. 336 pages, plain cut edged paper.Sticker on title page gives donor's name. On other side of title page "Donated by Clem Geier"books, military history

Black and yellow soft cover. Front cover has photograph of two men facing each other with a women standing between them (head and shoulders). Back cover has photograph of Japanese man in ceremonial dress. Author BOB WURTH Pages 336Written on title page "Donated by Bgo Y Mens Club"books, military history

Pages 329-336, plus an illustration page featuring a reproduction of a drawing 'Serving the ball', by J. Carter Beard (10 pages, 5 folia), from 'Outing' magazine (Vol. 7, July, 1888). Pages feature an essay/article entitled: LAWN TENNIS. Materials: Paper, Inktennis

Inspected by Joanna Freslov, archaeologist 2.6,2008. Possibly African spear - unknown origin.A carved wooden spear with a long metal blade.spear weapon hunting

brown heavy card cover, cream coloured binding on spine approx 50 pp name Label glued on top right hand cornerbooks - poetry, anzac

Photograph showing G.O.R. Toll gate and charges board and toll collector and vehicles toll gate, tollgate charges sign, g.o.r

This local news column details events, people and places of interest as they occurred in Watsonia in 1994.This column was a means of advertising for local community groups and gives a snapshot of the Watsonia area at the time.Spiral bound plastic binder with 20 pockets. Blue title page. Contains photocopies of selected articles from Diamond Valley News 1994watsonia, rosalie bray, diamond valley news

The photo shows a timber mill in the Grampians. Neither the location nor the people are known. Note: The photo may have been taken by Guy E. Neate of "Rosebank" on Neates Road in the Victoria Valley, however Guy Neate did not buy that property until June 1926 (see the book "Water Between the Hills".The photo shows two men standing beside a trolley with a large log on it. There are other logs to the left and some sawn wood is visible stacked towards the back.timber industries, logging, sawmilling

Written on back of photograph, '"Mail" 1/11/56. One of the Debs Elizabeth Sumner and partner at ball'. However, the deb appears to be Joan Ingram, by the previous photograph CE264.

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

Singletuniform, 1969, army

Black and white copy of Batchelder photo of Bendigo Town hall, taken from Pall Mall and Bull Street corner ( Noelene Wild 7/2000 ) Bare brickwork ? Large crowsd assembled in front. Horse and carts in front loaded drays at rear.Batchelderbuildings, government, town hall, sandhurst

Most likely collected and donated by Dr Frank Forster.Crochet, with slightly tapered rod, ["Continental" marked on label] and with a rosewood turned handle.obstetric delivery, destructive instrument, crochet