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Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... janet amess lace collection... generations of Amess women. lace churchill island janet amess lace ...This elegant lace collar with reinforced strips was made with machine net and Battenburg lace. It would have been temporarily applied or tucked in to the neckline of a garment to stand erect on the neck. Battenburg lace was popular in the United States in the 19th Century and was made by attaching inexpensive cotton strips on to net as an outline for the design. This type of lace was named after a wedding in the Battenburg family occurred at around the same time for which the patent was applied in Washington DCThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Lace Collar with reinforced strips. Machine net and Battenberg lace. lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, battenberg, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Fichu, attached to band
... janet amess lace collection... generations of Amess women. lace churchill island janet amess lace ...This piece consists of Battenburg machine braid tacked onto net which has been hand appliquéd with lace motifs. The lace fichu was worn by ladies to enhance the neckline of garments and to preserve modesty. Many lace fichus were shaped in a large square which was folded in half and draped over the shoulders like a shawl. They were often held in place with a small fichu pin or tucked into the neckline of the dress or under the apron or skirt at the waistline. This small jabot-like example may have been tied at the neckline and tucked into the bodice. It could also have been used at the front of a skirt and tied at the waistline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Battenburg machine braid tacked on to net. Hand appliquéd lace motifslace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, neckband, garment, battenburg, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...A five petal machine made lace collar, this item would be attached to the neckline of a garment and appears to be designed to lay flat although a little starch applied could make it stand up like petals around the neck. The Folk Art style rose between two rosebuds design is simple and outlined in fine black thread as are the scalloped edges of each collar petal The design being embroidered on to net leads one to believe that this was made on a Cornely machine. The Cornely machine had a great impact on the embroidery industry. It developed from hand tambouring and contemporary inventions in the field of sewing machines and was the first single-needle embroidery machine. It was easy to use, could be used in the home or a small workroom and as the mechanism developed it became difficult to distinguish machine from hand sewn. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Cream lace collar with black edging. Rosette pattern and some scalloping around selvage edge. Machine made lacelace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, collar, garment, clothing, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Neckpiece, Small
... janet amess lace collection... island janet amess lace collection neckpiece clothing garment ...Just 23cm in length, this lovely piece is an example of handmade Maltese silk lace. Maltese lace has an interesting history. It began as a needle lace which was developed in Genoa and in 1530 was brought to Malta and Gozo by the Knights who were sons of noble families in Europe. This was a time of great demand and lace was used in the clothing of men, women, children, and the clergy for its decorative element but also as a sign of wealth and status. In the mid 1800s Lady Hamilton Chichester sent lacemakers from Genoa to Malta where they turned the old needle lace patterns to bobbin lace which was much faster. The art of lacemaking is still taught in Malta in evening classes, government trade schools for girls and at the School of the Arts. Maltese lace can be identified by the following characteristics: a) cream silk, b) 8-pointed Maltese cross worked in cloth stitch c) closely worked leaves or ‘wheat ears’ all of which occur in this pieceThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Handmade Maltese silk lace lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, neckpiece, clothing, garment, amess, maltese, silk, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - French Buttons, Crochet
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...These are handmade crocheted buttons on the original card which indicates that they are from France. French crochet buttons and Irish crochet motifs were learned by watching another person. Then the onlooker specialized in that button or motif repeating it many hundreds of times. These buttons could be used to fasten underwear, jackets or gloves among other things. Crochet developed as a craft from the early 1800s and this development was accelerated by the industrial revolution. Crochet hooks were made from metal, the use of cotton as a suitable and cheap crochet thread came into being after the invention of mercerization (1844); women learned to read leading to patterns being developed and the publication of women’s magazines such as Godeys Lady’s Book (1830), Harpers Bazaar (1867) and DMC Guide to Needlework (1886). Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.Hand made French crochet buttons on original card crochet, lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, buttons, french, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This is a beautiful example of Irish crochet lace edging featuring the Clones knot which gives the picot appearance on the bars. Clones knots are made by twisting the crochet hook backwards and forwards many times and working into the same stitch then pulling a loop through and fastening it at the beginning of the knot. Irish crochet comes in many forms and at first glance this lace looks like a bobbin made torchon lace. It is very fine and the thread used is most likely a No. 60 cotton or finer. Being handmade this lace would have been quite expensive and the owner would have wanted it to be seen.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of handmade lace, with reinforced edges and a repeating, abstract motif reminiscent of buds.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...This length of machine made lace could only be made on either the Raschel or the Leavers machine, however the Raschel only produced an hexagonal ground, therefore we must lean towards the Leavers machine. The pattern in the piece is a copy of a bobbin lace with a plaited octagonal ground. The Leavers machine could reproduce all sorts of grounds, it was very versatile and operated from the mid 19th century until the present day. This lace is quite fine and would look lovely as a trim on a fichu or mob cap.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries.length of machine lace with repeating 'spoked wheel' designs, trimmed on one side with a scalloped edgechurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This is a machine made length of lace which has been executed in the Cluny style. Cluny lace is a bobbin style lace which is worked in a continuous piece and is heavily plaited in geometric designs. It is believed to have originated from copies of designs in the Musee de Cluny in Paris. There is a company in Ilkeston in the United Kingdom called The Cluny Lace Company which is still making both Cluny and Valenciennes lace using Leavers machines. The Mason family started making lace in the 1760s at the start of the Industrial Revolution. For two centuries the five generations of the family have paid close attention to detail and have brought the company to the forefront of new technology. Many of the lace patterns still used today were designed and draughted by Frank Maltby Mason and Francis Bowler Mason, the sixth and seventh generations of the family. They have developed a data bank of designs over this time and by combining the best of old traditions with new technology the firm is able to produce a wide range of exquisite designs of Leavers Cluny style lace allovers, edgings and insertions. This lovely insertion would be well suited to decorate a mob cap or on bed linen and nightwear.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of machine made Cluny-style lace trim with repeating diamond pattern on the border, and a central geometric/floral motifchurchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, machine, amess, cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...This piece is a filet lace with a hand darned pattern on machine net and embroidered for ribbon to be threaded through the reverse to highlight the design. It is also known as beading lace which is most commonly used in lingerie. Filet lace is a form of decorative knotted netting and as such can be presumed to have derived from fishnet and is similarly made using a shuttle-needle and a gauge stick or rod although this one has been made on a machine. In 1812, the first net-making machine was invented and was in commercial use by 1820. There are pre-made nets available on the market today but there are different types of net, some made especially for filet. The hand darning would have been made by anchoring the netting and using a long blunt needle and thread. Wider pieces of filet with hand embroidery were commonly used to trim clerical vestments.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide respresentative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Filet hand darned pattern on machine net in repeating noughts and crosses geometric motifs.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned ...A hand crocheted lace, this fine example could also be called a single galloon lace due to the scalloped edge. In lace making the word ‘galloon’ refers to a braid or lace with one or two scalloped edges. These trims were sometimes made of metallic thread and used to trim military uniforms and the word comes from the French “galonner” meaning ‘to trim with braid’. Owing to the structure of the outer edge it could also be referred to as beaded lace as there is space for fine ribbon to be threaded through the stitches. This length of hand crocheted lace would have been a delicate adornment for trimming a fichu or for lingerie and children’s clothing. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet ivory lace trim with a scalloped selvedge and even diagonal patternlace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, handmade, crotchet -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This lace appears to be a beautiful product of the Leavers lace making machine. It is Valenciennes in style which is a bobbin lace characterized by the diamond shaped net. Unlike comparable Mechlin lace it does not have a gimp thread outlining the pattern. Valenciennes lace originated in France but perhaps due to religious persecution later moved to Ypres in Belgium and was very popular in the 18th century. It was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace and was never used on expensive garments but reserved for bed linen, lingerie and the fichu. By the 19th century it was made by machine which made it cheaper and even more accessible.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with a floral design on a fine mesh background, and one scalloped edge.lace, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...This delicate lace is hand crocheted with fine scallops each adorned with three picots. The top of the lace has been made to take a fine ribbon trim threaded through making it come under the heading of the beaded laces. This lace is so fine that it would most likely be used on table linen, kerchiefs or baby’s clothes.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet length of lace trim with scalloped edge and three picots.churchill island, lace, janet amess lace collection, amess, crotchet, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity ...This length of hand crochet lace has been made with a beaded edging which could have ribbon inserted and with treble and half treble stitches making half scallops which are reminiscent of a sea shell design. Although very fine, this could have been made by someone with very basic crochet skills and would most likely be used on table linen, underclothing and children’s clothes.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Hand crochet length of lace trim with very delicate scalloped edge.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, crotchet, handmade -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... women, see above. janet amess lace collection lace churchill ...This narrow (3.3cm) piece may have been used to embellish the bodice or the waistline of a garment. Chemical lace is a late 19th century form of machine lace made by embroidering the lace pattern onto a sacrificial fabric which has been chemically treated to dissolve when immersed in a solution which will not harm the lace. However, the composition of the solution was not environmentally friendly so this method of lace making has all but disappeared in many countries. Chemical lace can be distinguished from needle lace by a slight fuzziness of the embroidered threadsThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women, see above.Narrow length of chemical lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Crochet Square
... janet amess... island janet amess lace collection lace ...This little square, at just 6cm in width is quite intricate crochet work. The thread used appears to be a fine cotton and the pattern would have been executed with a very small metal or bone crochet hook. Queen Victoria learned the craft and made eight scarves for veterans of the South African War. After the Irish Potato Famine she purchased Irish crocheted lace to help Irish women who were struggling to make a living, and this popularised the craft.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Hand crochet squarecrochet, churchill island, janet amess, lace collection, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Crochet Circles x 4
... janet amess lace collection... women. crochet churchill island janet amess lace collection ...These circles are just 7cm in diameter and are beautifully executed fine crochet work. In the late 1800s, well-bred ladies learned needlecrafts from a very early age and it is quite possible that these circles were made by a member of the Amess family.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Small set of hand crochet circles in an abstract designcrochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Decorative object - Crochet Circles x 4
... janet amess lace collection... women. crochet churchill island janet amess lace collection lace ...These small 8cm circles are not crochet but are made of bobbin lace. They may have been placed under trinkets on a dressing table or on a side table. In the late 19th century it was fashionable to have a collection of lace, and these may have been acquired for this purpose.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Handmade - probably bobbin lacecrochet, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, lace, bobbin, crotchet, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Ruffle with neckpiece
... janet amess lace collection... women. embroidery churchill island janet amess lace collection ...The neckpiece is 35.3cm long and 3cm wide and the ruffle is 35.3cm long and 16cm wide edged with delicate machine embroidery. In the mid to late 19th century, daydresses were made with a closed neckline, while evening dresses were usually off the shoulder. This ruffle was made to be attached to the bodice of a daydress to embellish the neckline.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery embroidery, churchill island, janet amess lace collection, amess, lace, neckpiece, garment, clothing -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 5
... janet amess lace collection... and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. janet amess lace ...At just 21cm in length and 27.5cm wide these machine lace pieces are most likely a sampler. Four of the pieces are insertion pieces, and the last is an edging piece. These samplers made ordering much more satisfactory than ordering from a catalogue. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidery Noten packaged with panel "scraps of lace found jumbled in with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, embroidery, panel, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Panel of lace pieces x 8
... janet amess lace collection.... janet amess lace collection lace churchill island amess ...At just 20.6cm in lace length and 27.5cm wide, this section of Torchon machine made lace is quite possibly a sampler for future purchases being a mixture of edging and insertion pieces. Torchon lace is a bobbin lace which is coarse and strong and was made all over Europe a characteristic of which was that the design and the ground were made in one continuous piece as opposed to motifs joined by brides. In 1809 John Heathcoat created a machine made net which didn’t unravel when cut and by 1870 every type of hand made lace had a machine made copy. Hand made lace as an industry virtually disappeared by 1900 and these machine made pieces were comparatively cheap.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Cheap Torchon machine lace Packaged with note: "Scraps of lace found jumbled with this collection"janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Clothing - Lace Collar
... janet amess lace collection... women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill island amess ...Although well-worn and somewhat damaged, this elegant lace collar is handmade and is a combination of some different styles. Bedfordshire lace, or simply Beds lace, and also known as Bedfordshire Maltese lace, was based on local lace forms traditionally produced in the English Midlands and on the Maltese lace that was developed in the early nineteenth century and on show at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. Maltese lace, and Bedfordshire lace, are forms of guipure, bobbin lace. The Maltese lace in particular gave the Bedfordshire lace its rounded leaf patterns and in this case its delicate brides and edging. The motifs appear to have been added and are most likely to be examples of Cluny lace which is of French origin and is a heavy plaited bobbin lace which is geometric in design often with radiating wheat ears. The motifs in this lace collar bear a very strong resemblance to Carrickmacross lace which is Irish in origin and is crafted by placing first the pattern, then fine muslin through which the pattern can be seen and then stitching around the pattern and finally cutting the excess muslin away. The pattern is decorated further with needle run stitches.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Maltese bobbin (NGV) Bedfordshire Cluny style hand made plaited lace janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, collar, garment, clothing, maltese, bobbin, handmade, plaited, bedfordshire cluny -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill island amess ...This is an interesting insertion piece with machine made copies of bobbin made ‘spiders’ which could be highlighted by ribbon insertion. The eyelets are placed so that the inserted ribbon covers the plain areas and is highlighting the decorative spiders and the fagoted edging would be revealed. This would be another lovely embellishment for baby’s clothes and accessories such as cradle trim, pillows and pram coverings. It would also be highly suitable for the clothing, undergarments and bed linen of children.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine embroidered section of lace trim with recurrent geometric motifsjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine, embroidery -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. janet amess lace ...This is a machine made copy of a geometric bobbin lace. It is quite narrow and was most likely made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of a hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of torchon and the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine. This lace was meant to be used as an edging and would not have been gathered.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine made length of geometric bobbin lacejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... women. janet amess lace collection lace churchill island amess ...This is a machine made copy of a bobbin lace featuring ‘spiders’ and double picots on the edge. It appears to be cotton and would be a pretty trim on a mob cap, a fichu or children’s clothing. It is quite narrow and was most likely made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of a hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of torchon and the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machineThe Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Machine made bobbin lace trim with double picots, slightly ivory in colourjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... and contributed to by four generations of Amess women. janet amess lace ...This unusual lace is a chemical lace most likely produced on a Schiffli machine. Chemical lace which is sometimes referred to as Schiffli lace is a form of machine made lace. The design is embroidered on to a sacrificial fabric which has been treated to disintegrate or dissolve away leaving the delicate pattern seen here. This design is somewhat like a miniature Tudor design and is quite delicate and decorative. Schiffli machines came into use in the late 19th century and nowadays the lace is made on a multi head or multi needle Schiffli machine. The pattern is designed to form a series of interlocking threads that can stand alone when the sacrificial fabric has been removed. This lace would make an elegant edging to a collar or cuffs among many other uses.The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. This lace collection was owned and contributed to by four generations of Amess women.Chemical lace in a miniature Tudor stylejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, chemical -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill ...This is quite a fine and dainty trim which appears to have been made with a fine linen thread or cotton combined with another fibre, possibly silk or rayon. It has been made by machine in the Valenciennes style as one can see from the diamond shaped ground. Handmade Valenciennes bobbin lace was very costly and time consuming to produce. One pair of ruffles costing £160 would take a lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to create. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy. This specimen is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machine. Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of lace trim of Valenciennes lace with diamond shape ground.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, trim, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim, Section
... janet amess lace collection... family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill ...This piece has been labelled by the Lacemakers Guild as ‘Imitation Valenciennes’which leads one to assume that it is machine made and created to look like a handmade Valenciennes trim Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border and in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Valenciennes lace was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front). It was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes was favoured although very expensive. Centres in both France and Belgium were soon producing a neat copy and this section is one of the wide variety of machine imitations which were made, some so exact as to be almost undetectable. The best was the Barmen form which used linen thread. Only one width could be made at a time so it was much more expensive than that made on the large Leavers machineChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Imitation Valenciennes length of white lace trim.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This piece is a beautifully preserved machine made copy of Valenciennes style lace as can be seen from the diamond shaped ground. This would have been made on the Barmen machine which was developed in the 1890s in Germany from a braiding machine. Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of the hand-made lace maker and it makes perfect copies of the simpler hand-made laces. It can only make one width at a time and does not have the pattern potential of the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lace with diamond groundjanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Piece
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This piece is amachine made copy of Valenciennes bobbin lace with many-legged spiders and a simple oval and circle pattern. Again it is worth noting that hand-made Valenciennes lace was very costly and time consuming (e.g., a pair of ruffles valued at £160 would take the lace maker ten months of fifteen hour days to complete) therefore the advent of machine made copies was welcomed although the Barmen made lace was more expensive that that made on the Leavers machine. Valenciennes was a lace making town on the French- Flemish border which in 1780 had 4000 lace makers but due to the revolution of 1789 the number was reduced to 250. It was initially Flemish but was claimed by the French, however the centre for Valenciennes lace eventually diverted back to Ghent and Ypres in Belgium. Due to its lightness and neatness Valenciennes lace, although very expensive was simpler to produce than Mechlin lace, and was never used for expensive garments. Instead it was applied to bed linen, lingerie, and the fichu (a woman's scarf wrapped over the shoulders and fastened in front).This lace was favoured by Queen Victoria, the Empress Eugenie and others as a trim on undergarments. The basic undergarments were stays, shift (smock, chemise or shirt), petticoat and drawers although drawers were not in general use until the mid-19th century when the tendency of the fashionable crinoline to become airborne or to tilt itself at embarrassing angles made a covering garment for the nether regions essential. Drawers were just two cylinders for the legs, joined at the waist with the lower ends frilled or trimmed with lace.Churchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Machine made Valenciennes lacejanet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, machine -
Churchill Island Heritage Farm
Textile - Lace Trim
... janet amess lace collection... generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess ...This trim is a delicate example of tatting which is a form of knotted lace. The lace is made by hand using a small shuttle which could be made of bone, tortoiseshell, steel or more recently, plastic. The shuttle is double sided with shell like sides which point towards each other at the ends to ease passing through loops of the larks head knot which is the main stitch used in tatting. The centre of the shuttle has a shaft with the thread wound onto it. Knotted laces have been made for several centuries but tatting is believed to have originated in the 18th century by the knotting of embroidery threads in preparation for couched work. This was done by ladies to relieve the monotony of long coach journeys sometimes using a shuttle for ease of manipulation. This knotted thread could be formed into circles and stitched together using a needle and thread. In the 1870s there were two major developments, first the introduction of picots which added daintiness to the work and secondly the use of a second shuttle with a separate thread to join the loops into a pattern of circles, squares, triangles and diamonds. Needle Tatting is another form of this craft where the work is done using a needle which the same width all along including the eye. This results in a different structure and slightly thicker end result than shuttle tatting as the needle must pass through the work. There is also a version called Cro-Tatting where the craft is created using a needle with a crochet hook on the end but again the hook must be the same diameter as the needleChurchill Island has a large lace collection, which was added to by three successive generations of the Amess family - Jane, Janet, and Unity. The Amess family owned Churchill Island from 1872 to 1929. Jane was wife of Samuel Amess, who was the first Samuel Amess to own Churchill Island. The examples of lace are notable for their variety, and provide representative examples of techniques from the late nineteenth to the early twentieth centuries. Length of tatted lace.janet amess lace collection, lace, churchill island, amess, tatting