Showing 86 items
matching water bag
-
Kiewa Valley Historical Society
Case for G.P. Multimeter, Circa 1950
This leather case holder for a general purpose Multi-meter( KVHS 0307 (A)) was manufactured after 1950 and used by the SEC Vic (Kiewa Hydro Electricity Scheme) from that date until late 1900's. It was used to measure very small voltages associated with the operation of the various Hydro Generators. The readings were able to be shown by the resistor in use in the current circuit. During this time period, high quality testing instruments were either sourced from Europe or England. This particular carry case was manufactured in the Netherlands. This carry case for an analog General Purpose multi-meter which is quite a large (for a handheld mobile) apparatus.The bag however permits the easy monitoring of electrical variations within the large SEC Victoria Hydro Scheme's electrical generators. These generators are powered by the hydro force of "stored" water at a higher altitude. The establishment of both the NSW and Victorian Hydro schemes was achieved from the mid 1900's to the 1960's. At this point in time the need for additional power sources to quench both an industrial and domestic demand for electricity was purely an economic and not and environmental (carbon reduction) factor. This hydro scheme was instigated by "the Government of the day" as a bold move and was the major force of the World War II refugee and "technical" workforce inclusion of skilled and unskilled migration into the Australian environment. Although this mass "invasion" of workers with families was thought of in some circles as intrusive, the expansion of population post war years and its integration into the Australian rural sector, produced the multi- lingual multi-cultural diversity of later years.This leather case is to provide protection for this mobile G.P. Multimeter, therefore it is made from thick leather. It has a carrying strap from a thick "D" chromed link. This link is fastened to the main cover by a looped leather strip with a black coloured rivet. All the fasteners are either chrome or black coloured rivets. The front, which when opened back exposes fully the inside of the case. It is clip fastened to the lower section of the front piece which also can be pushed back allowing the meter to be removed from the frontal position. There is a strip retaining strap slightly higher from the mid point. This is fasted by a black press stud. There are two "L" shaped tin protrusions allowing the meter to slide only down the case until it rests on these shelves. This provides for an empty space for minimal storage,.On the front bottom and below the clasp is a tag "STATE ELECTRICITY COMMISSION OF VICTORIA TRANSMISSION DEPT."sec vic kiewa hydro scheme, alternate energy supplies, alpine population growth -
4th/19th Prince of Wales's Light Horse Regiment Unit History Room
Millbank filter bag, M & Co
Personal issue equipment during World War 2 and Vietnam War eras. It did not purify water but stopped one from drinking mud. The filtered water was run in to a water bottle containing sterilizing tablets.Light green cotton bag. Fitted with brass eyelets in top corner for use as hanging point.Manufacturer's stamp: "M & Co. 1945, Defence broad arrow, CAT No A.F. 0005" -
Orbost & District Historical Society
Photograph, 1930s
Maize has been grown on the Orbost flats for at least 70 years. When early settlers began to arrive on the Snowy River somewhere in the 1880s, the land was mostly swamps and heavily timbered jungle on the river frontages. The swamps were drained, bit by bit, with short handled shovels working in mud and water. The frontages were cleared by axe and shovel and fire. Several kinds of crops were experimented with such as hops, hemp and maize which grew particularly well and became the main crop of district. The problem then was to thresh and deliver the product to the market. A small single cob machine was brought here and one man turned the handle, while the boy or Mum fed the cobs singly into the machine. A good day’s work would thresh about 50 bushels or about 12 bags (4 bushels). The task then was to cart the maize to market. For a few years this was done by horses and dray carrying about 60 bushels to Mossiface, where it was loaded onto river boats to Lakes Entrance, and then by ocean boats to Melbourne. (information from NEWSLETTER OCTOBER, 2006)The growing of maize in the Orbost district contributed significantly to the economy of the township for many years, The many maize cribs once seen on the surrounding farms have now disappeared and this photograph is a pictorial record of that significance.A small sepia photograph with six men in front of a wooden barn. They are bagging maize. In the foreground are two rows of filled bags. On the right is a lifting machine to take the bags to the top storey. On the far right is a water tank on a stand"on back - "Thrashing Maize"maize-orbost agriculture-maize industry -
National Wool Museum
Uniform - 1992 Barcelona Olympics Women's Barramundi Skin Bag, Wendy Powitt, c. 1992
Uniforms for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games were designed by Wendy Powitt in conjunction with the AWC. Doug Pleasance, donor of these items, worked for the AWC and closely with Wendy Powitt, obtaining these uniform examples. About the Olympic Uniforms Doug wrote- 1. The Official Uniform which was used for travel and all official functions. This included: a tailored blazer and trouser/skirt (all water repellent) by Fletcher Jones, pure wool olive-green faille fabric by Foster Valley, cotton PE formal shirt by Pelaco, pure wool knitwear by Spangaro, printed wool tie by T D Noone, wool nylon socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 2. Opening Ceremony Uniform a lightweight wool fabric printed with floral designs that had been inspired by the work of Australian artist Margaret Preston. This included: Lightweight W/PE shorts by Fletcher Jones in Foster Valley Fabric, socks by Holeproof and footwear by Hush Puppy. 3. Village Clothing was designed to be highly visible garments to make it easy to spot the Aussie and helped to contribute to good team spirit. This included: A pure wool shirt featuring blocks of contrasting colours, and a newly developed stretch 50:50 wool/cotton fabric by Bradmill was made into shorts and jeans by Fletcher Jones.The bag is small, tanned leather with a panel on the front of the bag made from delicate, tanned barramundi skin. The handle is attached to the bag using a gold loop in the centre, top of the bag and one long adjustable strap, The main clasp of the bag features an image of the Australian emblem above the Olympic rings, the reverse of the bag is unadorned.Clasp on the front of the bag has the image of the Australian emblem over the Olympic rings. On the inside of the bag is a label- "Witney Green" "Made in Australia"1992 barcelona olympics, sport, athletes, fashion, design, uniform -
Creswick Campus Historical Collection - University of Melbourne
Ephemera, Unknown (but can find out)
This bag belonged to J.H. Willis.Gladstone Bag -
Robin Boyd Foundation
Document - Script, Robin Boyd, The Flying Dogtor. Episode 18 The Visitors, 1963
The mysterious spots were caused by mosquito bites, due to the stagnant water from the flood. They had run out of medicines, bandages, everything, with no money to buy more. The Dogtor discovered a gold nugget in his bag from the mines and told nurse Sister Spaniel to take it to the bank to change it for money. Life then returned to normal at Hilltop Hospital. Then one day, a big loud silver helicopter appeared in the sky with a notice: WOOMERA RANGE. V.I.P. TOP SECRET. SPACE SURVEY. ROCKET DIVISION.The Flying Dogtor" series was broadcast on Australian Television Network (later becoming the Seven Network) between February and April 1964 (see item D254 for schedule).Typewritten, carbon copy, foolscap, 2 pagesPage 1: handwritten 'CUT' on left hand side.the flying dogtor, robin boyd, crawford productions, manuscript -
Whitehorse Historical Society Inc.
Article, Water idea is in the bag, 2003
List of different types of water bags and how to look after them (photo) Refers to NA 1912.List of different types of water bags and how to look after them (photo) Refers to NA 1912.List of different types of water bags and how to look after them (photo) Refers to NA 1912.water bags, different types -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Johnson Bros
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Plate, Alfred Meakin
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Education kit - Display Board of Knots, Tom Long, DSM (Member of International Guild of Knot Tyers), Before Sept 1986
The Display Board of Konts was handmade in Kings Lynn, Devon, England, by Tom Long DSM, who is a member of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. This display board shows the knots and joins used in ropework performed by a sailmaker and other skilled ropeworkers. It demonstrates the uses of some of the knots, such as for knobs and handles, suspending lengths of wood, reinforcing spliced rope and even for decorative work. The sailmakers travelling as part of the ship’s crew stored their tool kit in a canvas ditty bag. It contained needles, awls, a sailmaker’s leather palmed glove with a heavily reinforced palm - a shuttle to mend and make nets, fids, knives, mallets, brushes, rulers, and rope gauges. Sailmakers used their ropework and knot-making skills for various purposes and chose the type of rope fibre for its particular properties. For example, Italian hemp rope was preferred for the light line used in shore-to-ship rescues because it was lightweight, not easily knotted, and absorbed less water. A supply of various types of rope was a commodity on board a ship and on land in the new colonies. It was flexible, easily stored, and could be worked to create an endless variety of objects on its own or with other materials like wood. An example is a simple rope ladder. Lengths could be combined to make various thicknesses and pieces could be skilfully joined together by splicing. The importance of knots in seafaring cannot be overestimated. When ships relied on only the wind for power and speed, there were a huge number of various ropes in use, particularly with regard to the sails and rigging. Seafarers would be judged on their ability to tie knots speedily and correctly. A mounted display of authentic seaman's knots is on a board covered in blue fabric. Various rope grades and fibres were used to work numerous knots and splices. Some of the uses are familiar, such as the toggle, the pineapple knot, and the Turk’s head. A selection of rope grades and fibres were used to work numerous knots and splices. Some of the uses are familiar, such as the toggle, the pineapple knot, and the Turk’s head. The name or purpose of the knot is on the label below it. Labels below each knot give its name or use.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, knot display, knot making, ropework, marine technology, sailmaker's work, sailor's knots, ship's rigging, seamen's knots, handmade, rope craft, knots, splices -
Phillip Island and District Historical Society Inc.
Photographs, Fuji Film, Twin Telescopes, 2013
Twin Telescopes - "Lemair Paris" - believed to be owned by Charles Grayden c 1870's. Traded to english settlers for cannon balls used as ballast in his boat he rowed passengers across the Eastern Passage. He may have had the first water taxi license in Victoria.283-01 and 02. Coloured photographs of twin telescopes, one with carrying bag.telescope, twin telescope, charles grayden, lloyd john grayden -
Orbost & District Historical Society
fish landing net, first half 20th century
This landing net is a small, bag-shaped net with a long handle at the mouth, for scooping a hooked fish out of the water and bringing it to shore or into a boat. this one is home-made by an Orbost angler.This fishing net is an example of a home-made piece of equipment. It shows the self-reliance of rural people.A home-made fish landing net. It has a long wooden handle. Hose clamps hold the wire frame of the net,. The end of the bag shaped string net is bound with tape.fishing-net handcraft -
Warrnambool and District Historical Society Inc.
Functional object - Dame Nellie Melba Postage Stamp booklet, 10/05/2011
Stamps created to celebrate the life of Dame Nellie MelbaSupplement other Melba artifacts - evening bag displayed in WAG exhibitionDame Nellie Melba 1861-1931. 3 out of 4 colored stamps in 'booklet' 60c Australia. Self adhesive, rippled edge. Light cream paper, water marked. Music staffs. B/W drawn. Mauve floral emblem. 'Melba as Ophelle'. On reverse Portrait of Melba NAA:A1200. L38241 NAA:A1200.L38247dame nellie melba, nellie melba, stamps -
Bendigo Military Museum
Accessory - WATERPROOF BAGS, Aust Army, c1962 - 1972
Used for wrapping up items of kit that need protection from water.1. Dark green bag, open ended. Colour dark jungle green. 2. Green colour bag, open ended. 3. Dark green bag, open ended.1. 3795952, W.D. Patterson, written in large letters. 2. & 3. No marks.vietnam war, aust army, uniform accessory -
Bendigo Military Museum
Accessory - FLYING RATION, C.1944
Item issued to Richard Noel levy RAAF No 428329. Refer Cat No 4919.3 for service history.Emergency Flying Ration RAAF, outer cover in two pieces clear plastic, inner plastic container with ration items, sterilisation tablets, small plastic bag with string attached possibly for water sterilising.On tag inside “4/44”accessory, flying ration, emergency -
Bendigo Military Museum
Functional object - WATER PURIFYING KIT
The bag is a clear plastic with a zip lock top. It is a heavy duty plastic. Instructions for use are printed on the outside. There are two strips of water sterilizing tablets. 10 pills each. There are also two "books" of army matches. Red cover with a crown over two swords and a leaping kangaroo. survival, water, purification -
Running Rabbits Military Museum operated by the Upwey Belgrave RSL Sub Branch
Webbing
Harness, 2 water Bottles, 2 small pouches, bum bag & neck Pouch, rope & straps(Part of UC016)equipment, 2000, army -
Running Rabbits Military Museum operated by the Upwey Belgrave RSL Sub Branch
DPSU Webbing Harness
... with bum bag, 4 pouches, 2 water bottles. (Auss. Cam.)... Webbing Harness with bum bag, 4 pouches, 2 water bottles. (Auss ...with bum bag, 4 pouches, 2 water bottles. (Auss. Cam.)equipment, current, army -
Geoffrey Kaye Museum of Anaesthetic History
Insufflation anaesthesia machine
In 1913, Mark Cowley Lidwill designed a machine for the purpose of mechanical or insufflation anaesthesia. The Lidwill machine was a portable machine weighing 7kg that could easily be packed into two small bags. The machine involved compressed air being delivered to an ether vaporiser. An ether/air control device allowed varying concentrations of ether to be delivered. The ether vaporiser could be immersed in hot water to prevent cooling and the ether temperature was measured. From the vaporiser, the ether/air mixture went through a trap bottle, then to a crude mercury blow-off valve and subsequently to the patient.Large leather suitcase style bag divided into two levels containing and insufflation anaesthesia machine.insufflation, mark cowley lidwill, thoracic surgery, positive pressure -
Keilor East RSL Sub Branch
Uniform - Disruptive Pattern Camouflage Uniform (DPCU) webbing set, c.2000
DPCU webbing set. Complete with, H Harness, Web Belt, Pad belt Day pack, Day bag, Suspenders, Minimi Ammunition Pouches (2), Water Bottle Covers and Water Bottles (2), toggle rope, case FAD8209974 Walshcamouflage, adf, dpcu, webbing, disruptive, pattern -
Wodonga & District Historical Society Inc
Domestic object - Meat Safe known as a "Coolgardie safe", Early 1900s
The Coolgardie safe was invented in the late 1890s on the Western Australian goldfields. Its invention was credited to a local contractor named Arthur Patrick McCormick. It was a practical system to preserve food prior to modern refrigeration. The wire grid kept the food safe from vermin and allowed breeze to blow through. It was often covered with wet hessian so that as the breeze circulated the water evaporated, creating the same concept as coolant in modern refrigerators and ice boxes. In most respects it was a variation of the bushman’s hessian bag hanging in a tree. In larger towns and cities during this time period large "ice works" could deliver block ice to areas that required a form of refrigeration. These ice blocks where held in early refrigerators to keep perishables cool. In isolated or rural households, the Coolgardie or meat safe was the next best, practical solution for food preservation. This safe was used in the home of the Conway family in Wodonga.This item is very significant to the Wodonga region as it represents the initiative and problem solving skills of the early settlers. It also reflects the primitive conditions in which they lived before the arrival of more modern services such as electricity.Meat safe or Coolgardie safe manufactured in Australia. This safe is made from metal and has been painted in green paint. 2 sides of the safe have a pattern of 6 squares of holes to allow for ventilation and air flow. The holes would also guard against insects and other vermin. There is one shelf inside, dividing it into 2 sections. The safe has a hook attached so that it can be suspended, often from a tree or on a verandah to increase air flow. The safe would often be covered by wet hessian to promote further cooling and preservation of foods such as milk, butter and meat.coolgardie safe, food preservation, pioneers innovation -
Ballarat Heritage Services
Digital photographs, L.J. Gervasoni, Prof McIntyre and Philip Slobom, c2009
Environmental approach to preserving Kew Court House 4 June 2010 Paint stripping from older buildings can be a hazardous task. The City of Boroondara has found an environmentally sustainable solution for the works at local heritage icon, the Kew Police Station and Court House. Council used an organic based paint stripping alternative as part of the repairs to the rendering on the building facade. Over nearly three months, the damaged and unsound render was removed, the paint was stripped and the render was repainted. Usually, paint is removed via high pressure water cleaning or sandblasting. This is a harsh method and involves combining extreme high amounts of pressure, water and sand and is highly toxic. It also creates high noise levels. In this 'green' project, Council used a soy bean paint stripper. The process uses a paste-like substance, which is highly effective, non toxic and biodegradable, and applied by hand. Initially, a bandage is applied (much like a leg waxing strip) over the top of paste. It is allowed to dry and then the bandage is stripped off. Noise was kept to a minimum by using the paint stripping alternative. Scrapings and bandages are then bagged and sent to the tip as landfill, so it does not end up in our water supply. The waste and debris don’t run-off into drains, and the bags and bi-products are biodegradable. Studley Ward Councillor Phillip Healey explained that soy bean paint removal is not greatly used in Melbourne or the local government sector. "We know of special cases where it has been used, such as high profile projects like Sydney Harbour Bridge, but Boroondara is one of the first in Victoria to employ this natural plant-based paint-stripping treatment to a large-scale building," Cr Healey said. "What this means is that no harmful substances were used and no injury was caused, soy paint removal also preserves, protects and restores the heritage integrity and decorative stone masonry features of the historic building. "This is a terrific example of our commitment to 'enhancing the environment' which is one of our key directions in the 2010–15 Council Plan." The restoration of the Kew Court House and Police Station is expected to be completed in the year ahead. Council purchased the heritage building in 2007 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building required extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome, and the renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. Heritage Victoria helped fund the cost of the roof repairs with a grant of $250,000, along with the Australian Government contributing $330,000 through its Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. Restoration Underway Concept plans for a new performance and exhibition space at the Kew Court House and Police Station have been developed by the City of Boroondara. Two years ago, Council Purchased the Kew Court House and Police Station from the State Government for $825,000 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building requires extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome. The renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. The restoration has been assisted with a Federal Government grant of $330,000 under the Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. In 2008, Council was also successful in obtaining a Heritage Victoria Grant of $250,000 towards the costs of the roof repairs. Having satisfied the necessary permit requirements, works are about to commence using slate of a similar quality to the original. The City of Boroondara would like to thank all residents and businesses who have contributed to the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal which has raised $650,000. Special thanks go to a private donor who donated $250,000 and the Kew Senior Citizens Club which contributed $50,000. NEWS FLASH 14th March “Council moves to provide certainty for the restoration of the courthouse”. In a historic meeting last night 13th March 07 at Boroondara Council voted overwhelmingly to complete the purchase of the Kew Court House. The partnership continues between the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and the Council to see this project through. The project now has the overwhelming support of Council. “It is no longer about “if” it is about “when” the doors will re open” said Prof Peter McIntyre. With the property secured the fundraising can now be completed without the encumbrances and we know the restoration will be undertaken as the funds become available from the appeal. Work can commence as soon as significant fund raising is achieved. “The community, philanthropists and corporations can now enter this project with certainty. 7th March At the Council meeting on 5th March, following many hours of debate a motion was passed by 5 to 4 vote to purchase the Kew Court House and Police Station outright. As of 7th March Cr Dick Menting lodged a rescission notice. This means that there was another Council meeting at 6pm, Tuesday 13th March at Council Chambers. MEDIA RELEASE - Kew, 3rd December 2006 APPEAL LAUNCHED TO SAVE A NATIONAL TREASURE On the morning of Saturday 18th. November 2006 the people of Kew were aroused by the triumphant sound of the Boroondara Brass which had assembled outside the former Kew Police Station. After four long years of neglect, the precinct was being heralded back to life, and what a heartwarming sound it was for all those early shoppers who gathered to hear Cr. Phillip Healey introduce Patrons and supporters of the Save the Court House campaign. Following the speeches, the "Thermometer" was unveiled and the Appeal was formally under way. The various committees have worked very hard during these past weeks. The Kew Court House Arts Association Inc. has been formed under the leadership of Graeme McCoubrie. This organization brings all the amateur theatre groups in the City of Boroondara together with a view to providing them with a permanent performing space within the former Court House. As well as intimate theatre, there will be provision for the staging of instrumental and choral performances before an audience of 40 to 50 people. The Police Station will compliment the function of the Court House by providing a venue for artist groups to exhibit their work, for the Historical Societies of Boroondara to meet, and for study groups to meet, for activities such as play and poetry readings. It will be a Hub for the Arts in Kew. Of course none of this can happen unless the money to pay for restoration of the buildings is raised, and we only have until March 2007 in which to do this. The City of Boroondara, Kew Historical Society and the East Kew Community Bank are working together as a team to make this dream a reality, but WE NEED YOUR HELP. This is a fantastic one-off opportunity, and it must not be wasted. Donations to the Appeal can be made through the Kew East Kew Community Bank or any branch of the Bendigo Bank, or through the Kew Historical Society Inc., P.O. Box 175 Kew Vic 3101. All donations over $2 are tax deductible through the Community Enterprise Foundation. End Media Release Kew Courthouse future looks bright The State Government has accepted an offer from the local government of Boroondara to purchase the former Kew Courthouse and Police Station, Minister for Finance John Lenders said today. In a joint statement with the Mayor of Boroondara, Councillor Jack Wegman, Mr Lenders said he was pleased that agreement had been reached and the contract of sale document finalised. “I welcome the Council making this step towards purchasing this property after recent negotiations,” Mr Lenders said. “The settlement date for the purchase of the property is March 2007. The State government sold the property to Council at a reduced cost of $825,000 for community use. The full value of the buildings on the commercial marketplace was estimated to be about $2million,” he said. Cr Wegman said the Contract of Sale provides that if the funds cannot be raised to restore the property for use as community buildings then they will be returned to the State government. In relation to this additional funding to restore and modernise the buildings, Council and the community will work together over the next eight months, with the encouragement of the State government, Cr Wegman said. Mr Lenders said both he and the Premier had advised the Council of fundraising opportunities to help the Council convert the property for its future use. Cr Wegman noted that applications for funding from the Community Support Fund and for State government heritage grants were being processed. “Council has agreed to a Memorandum of Understanding with the Kew Historical Society outlining arrangements for the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and Council is delighted with the level of support shown by the community and is confident of a bright future for these historic buildings.” Mr Lenders said the Bracks Government is committed to securing the best outcome when buildings that have once served the community outlive their original purpose. “There is a responsibility for Governments to practice good financial management and achieve the best possible price when an asset is longer used by the State,” he said. “There is also a responsibility to consider the local community. The Government and City of Boroondara have worked hard to achieve a balance between these two interests.” The building ceased to operate as a courthouse in 1971 and as a police station in 2002. Part of the building was also used as a post office and this section of the building was sold by the Commonwealth in 1992 to a private owner and is currently run as a licensed restaurant. It is listed on the State's Heritage Register as a place of historical and architectural significance and is protected by the Victorian Heritage Act. Created: 30 August 2006 Last Update: 10 January 2007 kew, kew court house, phillip slobom, town crier, professor peter mcintyre -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, J & G Meakin, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl, Late 19th or early 20th Century
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Ballarat Heritage Services
Photograph - Digital photographs, L.J. Gervasoni, Kew Historical Society in the Former Kew Court House, c2009
Environmental approach to preserving Kew Court House 4 June 2010 Paint stripping from older buildings can be a hazardous task. The City of Boroondara has found an environmentally sustainable solution for the works at local heritage icon, the Kew Police Station and Court House. Council used an organic based paint stripping alternative as part of the repairs to the rendering on the building facade. Over nearly three months, the damaged and unsound render was removed, the paint was stripped and the render was repainted. Usually, paint is removed via high pressure water cleaning or sandblasting. This is a harsh method and involves combining extreme high amounts of pressure, water and sand and is highly toxic. It also creates high noise levels. In this 'green' project, Council used a soy bean paint stripper. The process uses a paste-like substance, which is highly effective, non toxic and biodegradable, and applied by hand. Initially, a bandage is applied (much like a leg waxing strip) over the top of paste. It is allowed to dry and then the bandage is stripped off. Noise was kept to a minimum by using the paint stripping alternative. Scrapings and bandages are then bagged and sent to the tip as landfill, so it does not end up in our water supply. The waste and debris don’t run-off into drains, and the bags and bi-products are biodegradable. Studley Ward Councillor Phillip Healey explained that soy bean paint removal is not greatly used in Melbourne or the local government sector. "We know of special cases where it has been used, such as high profile projects like Sydney Harbour Bridge, but Boroondara is one of the first in Victoria to employ this natural plant-based paint-stripping treatment to a large-scale building," Cr Healey said. "What this means is that no harmful substances were used and no injury was caused, soy paint removal also preserves, protects and restores the heritage integrity and decorative stone masonry features of the historic building. "This is a terrific example of our commitment to 'enhancing the environment' which is one of our key directions in the 2010–15 Council Plan." The restoration of the Kew Court House and Police Station is expected to be completed in the year ahead. Council purchased the heritage building in 2007 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building required extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome, and the renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. Heritage Victoria helped fund the cost of the roof repairs with a grant of $250,000, along with the Australian Government contributing $330,000 through its Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. Restoration Underway Concept plans for a new performance and exhibition space at the Kew Court House and Police Station have been developed by the City of Boroondara. Two years ago, Council Purchased the Kew Court House and Police Station from the State Government for $825,000 with the intention for it to be restored and used for the community. The building requires extensive renovation including repair of the slate roof and ventilation dome. The renovation plans include a new foyer, bathrooms and kitchen to ensure the venue meets a broad range of community needs. The restoration has been assisted with a Federal Government grant of $330,000 under the Regional and Local Community Infrastructure Program. In 2008, Council was also successful in obtaining a Heritage Victoria Grant of $250,000 towards the costs of the roof repairs. Having satisfied the necessary permit requirements, works are about to commence using slate of a similar quality to the original. The City of Boroondara would like to thank all residents and businesses who have contributed to the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal which has raised $650,000. Special thanks go to a private donor who donated $250,000 and the Kew Senior Citizens Club which contributed $50,000. NEWS FLASH 14th March “Council moves to provide certainty for the restoration of the courthouse”. In a historic meeting last night 13th March 07 at Boroondara Council voted overwhelmingly to complete the purchase of the Kew Court House. The partnership continues between the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and the Council to see this project through. The project now has the overwhelming support of Council. “It is no longer about “if” it is about “when” the doors will re open” said Prof Peter McIntyre. With the property secured the fundraising can now be completed without the encumbrances and we know the restoration will be undertaken as the funds become available from the appeal. Work can commence as soon as significant fund raising is achieved. “The community, philanthropists and corporations can now enter this project with certainty. 7th March At the Council meeting on 5th March, following many hours of debate a motion was passed by 5 to 4 vote to purchase the Kew Court House and Police Station outright. As of 7th March Cr Dick Menting lodged a rescission notice. This means that there was another Council meeting at 6pm, Tuesday 13th March at Council Chambers. MEDIA RELEASE - Kew, 3rd December 2006 APPEAL LAUNCHED TO SAVE A NATIONAL TREASURE On the morning of Saturday 18th. November 2006 the people of Kew were aroused by the triumphant sound of the Boroondara Brass which had assembled outside the former Kew Police Station. After four long years of neglect, the precinct was being heralded back to life, and what a heartwarming sound it was for all those early shoppers who gathered to hear Cr. Phillip Healey introduce Patrons and supporters of the Save the Court House campaign. Following the speeches, the "Thermometer" was unveiled and the Appeal was formally under way. The various committees have worked very hard during these past weeks. The Kew Court House Arts Association Inc. has been formed under the leadership of Graeme McCoubrie. This organization brings all the amateur theatre groups in the City of Boroondara together with a view to providing them with a permanent performing space within the former Court House. As well as intimate theatre, there will be provision for the staging of instrumental and choral performances before an audience of 40 to 50 people. The Police Station will compliment the function of the Court House by providing a venue for artist groups to exhibit their work, for the Historical Societies of Boroondara to meet, and for study groups to meet, for activities such as play and poetry readings. It will be a Hub for the Arts in Kew. Of course none of this can happen unless the money to pay for restoration of the buildings is raised, and we only have until March 2007 in which to do this. The City of Boroondara, Kew Historical Society and the East Kew Community Bank are working together as a team to make this dream a reality, but WE NEED YOUR HELP. This is a fantastic one-off opportunity, and it must not be wasted. Donations to the Appeal can be made through the Kew East Kew Community Bank or any branch of the Bendigo Bank, or through the Kew Historical Society Inc., P.O. Box 175 Kew Vic 3101. All donations over $2 are tax deductible through the Community Enterprise Foundation. End Media Release Kew Courthouse future looks bright The State Government has accepted an offer from the local government of Boroondara to purchase the former Kew Courthouse and Police Station, Minister for Finance John Lenders said today. In a joint statement with the Mayor of Boroondara, Councillor Jack Wegman, Mr Lenders said he was pleased that agreement had been reached and the contract of sale document finalised. “I welcome the Council making this step towards purchasing this property after recent negotiations,” Mr Lenders said. “The settlement date for the purchase of the property is March 2007. The State government sold the property to Council at a reduced cost of $825,000 for community use. The full value of the buildings on the commercial marketplace was estimated to be about $2million,” he said. Cr Wegman said the Contract of Sale provides that if the funds cannot be raised to restore the property for use as community buildings then they will be returned to the State government. In relation to this additional funding to restore and modernise the buildings, Council and the community will work together over the next eight months, with the encouragement of the State government, Cr Wegman said. Mr Lenders said both he and the Premier had advised the Council of fundraising opportunities to help the Council convert the property for its future use. Cr Wegman noted that applications for funding from the Community Support Fund and for State government heritage grants were being processed. “Council has agreed to a Memorandum of Understanding with the Kew Historical Society outlining arrangements for the Kew Court House Restoration Appeal and Council is delighted with the level of support shown by the community and is confident of a bright future for these historic buildings.” Mr Lenders said the Bracks Government is committed to securing the best outcome when buildings that have once served the community outlive their original purpose. “There is a responsibility for Governments to practice good financial management and achieve the best possible price when an asset is longer used by the State,” he said. “There is also a responsibility to consider the local community. The Government and City of Boroondara have worked hard to achieve a balance between these two interests.” The building ceased to operate as a courthouse in 1971 and as a police station in 2002. Part of the building was also used as a post office and this section of the building was sold by the Commonwealth in 1992 to a private owner and is currently run as a licensed restaurant. It is listed on the State's Heritage Register as a place of historical and architectural significance and is protected by the Victorian Heritage Act. Created: 30 August 2006 Last Update: 10 January 2007 Colour photograph of the Kew Historical Society holding an event in the Former Kew Court House.kew, kew court house, kew historical society, meeting, city of boroondara -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Bowl
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic -
Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village
Domestic object - Jug
The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug -
Dandenong/Cranbourne RSL Sub Branch
Field Dressing and Foot Powder, Dressing: Johnson and Johnson Pty Ltd. Powder: Murphy Liebert Pty Ltd, 1944
... Field dressing in a cotton bag with inner water cover... in a cotton bag with inner water cover. Contents: 2 x dressings, gauze ...Used during Vietnam War.Field dressing in a cotton bag with inner water cover. Contents: 2 x dressings, gauze pad and safety pin. Tin of foot powder.Showing contents on dressing. Foot powder D->D 2 ounce. -
Royal District Nursing Service (now known as Bolton Clarke)
Photograph - Photograph, sepia, 1907
This photograph depicts the Sister-in-charge with a group of Melbourne District Nursing Society (MDNS,) Trained nurses, 'Nurses", with their bicycles, which were the first mode of transport purchased by MDNS in 1903. The bicycles enabled their Nurses to visit more patients over a wider area. They are identified as: L-R back row: Trained Nurses Taylor, Steele, Francis, Young. L-R front row: Isobel Curnow, Annie Roberts, Isabel Hawkes (Sister in Charge), Becker. Their uniforms were a grey cotton dress with white collar, cuffs and belt and their was a red Maltese cross on their pith helmets. They gave nursing care to the poor in the inner Melbourne and close surrounding areas (districts). On the 17th of February 1885, just 50 years after Melbourne was founded, a preliminary meeting of ladies and gentlemen who were anxious to form a society to provide "skilled nursing" for the sick poor in their own homes was held in Mrs William McCulloch’s home at Spring Street, Melbourne. At this meeting it was decided “that the association would be called the Melbourne District Nursing Society”, the first Society of its kind in Australia, and “that the special object of the Society shall be to secure skilled nursing for the sick poor in their own homes”. On the 16th of March a Committee was formed to “arrange for engaging one "duly qualified nurse”. On the 1st of May 1885 a Nurse, Mrs. Ferguson, was employed at £100 per annum, and a second Nurse, Mrs. Joanne Cannon, commenced six months later. In that era the term ‘Nurse’ was used even though they were ‘qualified’ i.e. ‘trained’ nurses. They worked in the now CBD, ie from Spencer Street to Spring Street and from Victoria Parade to Flinders Street. From its inception the Society was at the forefront of health care. They provided high quality Trained nursing care; educated their patients in the curing and prevention of disease; teaching the importance of cleanliness, fresh air and good nutrition, both by verbal instruction and demonstration, even supplying soup and milk when needed, as well as providing wood and coal in the winter. At that time they walked the streets and lane ways amid the slums of inner Melbourne carrying their nursing bag containing lotion, ointments, powders, liniment, bandages, dressings, a case of spirits, and the Nurse's own clean apron, soap and small towel. They supplied equipment on loan, such as earthenware hot water bottles, splints, urinals, bed pans, bed cradles, feeding mugs, and air-cushions as well as providing blankets and clean bed linen, and nightdresses as necessary. Trained midwives began home births in late 1893 taking midwifery bundles and providing clothes for the babe and mother as needed. As the work increased a third Trained nurse was employed but this was arduous work, particularly in the heat of summer and many Nurses only remained with the Society for several months. Permission to use bicycles was given to the Nurses in 1898 and the Society decided to purchase their own in 1903. A business man offered ‘new free wheel’ bicycles at £13 each which included maintenance for one year. Bells and wooden frames were added, at a cost of £5 per frame, so the Nurses could carry extra equipment. Nurses’ bags were strapped to the handlebars. Soup was made for those in need 2-3 times a week and if patients could not arrange to have it collected the soup was delivered by the Nurses on their bicycles. The use of bicycles caused a change in uniform, with white pith helmets, and veils covering them and tied under their chin, now being used. They provided high quality nursing care to a range of people, often in destitute situations, some lying on rags on the floor as they had no bed, others with just a bed and maybe a thin blanket, a chair and nothing else. Their ages ranged from babes, children, adults to the elderly. The Nurses gave medications as ordered by a Doctor, dressed wounds e.g. to the injured, and surgical cases, and to those with leg ulcers; attended to patients with ‘surgical ailments’ such as ‘hip disease’; gave care to those with acute illnesses such as bronchitis, pleurisy, pneumonia, measles, and scarlet fever, as well as those with chronic illnesses such as consumption (tuberculosis), heart disease, arthritis, cancer, debility, neuritis and paralysis. In 1913 a Nurse had her Board and residence, uniforms, bicycles and laundry expensive provided and was paid £50 a year for her first six months. At the end of a year her salary is increased by £5, and later she earns £60 a year. Over the years the nurses complained that their veils became wet in the rain and asked for a change of uniform but this did not occur until 1921. Bicycles continued to be used in inner areas until 1945. Sepia photograph of eight Melbourne District Nursing Society Trained nurses posing with their bicycles in a park; some are partly hidden. Nurse's uniforms consist of long grey dresses with white belts, cuffs and collars and white pith helmets with a Maltese cross in the centre. Oblong leather nursing bags of varying sizes are strapped to five of the bicycles. In the centre is Sister-in-charge – Mrs Hawkes (in white); to her left are 4 Nurses and to her right 3. L-R – Front row – Trained Nurses Curnow, Roberts, (Hawkes) and Becker. Back row – Nurses Taylor, Steele, Francis and Young. Trees and a palm are in the background. The bicycles have two large wire spoked wheels at either end of the black V shape bicycle frame; a rubber tyre runs around the outside of each wheel. The metal handlebars are a horizontal configuration and are attached with a central column into a black vertical column at the front of the V shape bicycle frame which has ‘fork shaped’ thin metal pierces running down either side of the wheel attaching the frame to the central hub of the wheel. The rear wheel is attached the same way to a central column at the rear of the frame which runs up to V shape solid seat. At the bottom of the V of the frame a pedal is attached with a rotating arm on either side of the bicycle and on the right side the rotating arm is attached to a sprocket which has a chain running around it back to a smaller sprocket on the hub of the back wheel. The chain has a thin metal guard over it. There are narrow thin metal mud guards running a short distance above the top of each wheel. melbourne district nursing society (1885-1957), bicycles, nurses, uniforms, mdns, mdns transport, rdns, royal district nursing service, trained nurse annie roberts, sister-in-charge isabel hawkes, trained nurse taylor, trained nurse steele, trained nurse francis, trained nurse young, trained nurse becker, trained nurse isobel curnow