This ceramic soap dish was recovered from the wreck of the 1882-1883 George Roper between the late 1960’s to early 1970’s. It is one of the shipwreck artefacts in the John Chance Collection. Soap dishes were often part of a wash set that also included a water jug and wash bowl. The holes in the dish allowed water to drain out of the dish, keeping the soap dry for next use. The GEORGE ROPER 1882 - 1883 - The George Roper was a 4-masted iron sailing ship built in Liverpool, England, in 1882 for fast international trade with Australia. The large vessel was launched in February 1883. The ship was on its first trip, departing Liverpool for Melbourne, captained by John Ward and a crew of 31. She had almost reached her destination on July 4 1883, approaching Port Phillip Bay and being towed by the steam tug William. The weather changed to rough with fog and both the George Roper and the William hit the dangerous Lonsdale Reef at Port Phillip Heads. The Captain and crew were eventually rescued and taken to Queenscliff. Salvage syndicates were able to recover a lot of the cargo before the George Roper broke up and sank. Amongst the cargo was soft goods, draperies, household items, spirits of malt and distilled liquors, chemicals, dynamite, and 1,400 tons of steel rails for the Victorian Government. Also in the hold were Russell Stourbridge bricks, as paying ballast. This 1880s soap dish is an example of personal hygiene accessories and may have been part of a set comprising jug, bowl and dish.. The soap dish is also significant as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver from the wreck of the George Roper in the 1960s-70s. Items that come from several wrecks along Victoria's coast have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. The soap dish is significant for its association with the barque George Roper, which is considered historically and archaeologically significant and as such, is listed on the Victorian Heritage Database, VHR S286. The George Roper is an example of a vessel built specifically for fast travel to and from Australia with a large shipment of cargo. Its cargo of steel rails adds to the historical significance of international trade to the growing colony of Australia and Victoria in particular, with rail transportation soon to become a faster and safer form of transportation between colonial towns. Divers can still access parts of the scattered wreck and other artefacts recovered in the 1970s and 1980s can be viewed in both public and private collections. Soap dish; glazed white porcelain. Round shallow bowl with blue patterned border, resembling butterflies. Two raised, concentric rings are moulded into the base. Six pierced holes are evenly spaced between the rings, five holes are in the centre of the dish.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, john chance, west coast trader, george roper, captain john ward, russell stourbridge bricks, port phillip heads, lonsdale reef, dive wreck, vhr s286, coastal trader, ceramic, vintage, personal hygiene, bathroom accessory, soap dish

Joseph Henry Abbott arrived in Australia from Birmingham England in 1852 aged 22 hoping to make his fortune on the goldfields. In 1853 he opened a store in Bendigo, Abbott and Co and from there began a lengthy career as a business man supplying the local community with goods and services including owning and operating the New Times Boot Market & Factory in Pall Mall, Sandhurst, run by his wife, Anne (nee Deague). J H Abbott’s main ambitions were to serve on the local and state councils. He was elected Chairman of the Sandhurst Borough Council in 1860, Mayor of the City of Bendigo in 1891 and was gazetted a Justice of the Peace in 1864. Over his lifetime J H Abbott was closely linked to nearly all the leading institutions in Bendigo and worked for the benefit of local charities. He was trustee of the Bendigo Art Gallery and a Freemason and was said to be the first person in Bendigo to have a telephone installed in1882 between his residence and his business in Pall Mall. After JH Abbott died in 1904 he passed on his businesses to his son JH Abbott Jnr and adopted son RHS Abbott. These businesses continued to trade under the name JH Abbott & Co and today still operates under the name Abbott Supply although the last of the family interests ceased in 1986. Abbott and Co acted as agents for larger Melbourne based suppliers such as Briscoe & Co and the Australian Explosives & Chemical Co. Printed and handwritten paper invoice from Briscoe & Co to JH Abbott & Co dated Jan 31st, 1898 for the purchase of dynamite and gelynite.city of bendigo mayor, shire of strathfieldsaye, mayor abbott, city of greater bendigo commerce, making a nation exhibition, briscoe & co

This specimen was recovered from Mica Schist, Canada. Chalcopyrite is a copper iron sulfide mineral with a chemical composition of CuFeS2. Its name derives from the Greek words for copper (chalco-) and brass (pyrite). It can be found in shades of yellow, green and grey, and, when exposed to acid, it can change to purple, blue, violet and yellow tones. Weathering can cause loss of its metallic luster and its brass-yellow colour. Chalcopyrite forms under various conditions, with the most significant deposits being hydrothermal in their origin. It is known globally as the most important ore of copper for thousands of years, and is thus considered a very important mineral formation. Given its golden appearance, it is often confused for the mineral gold, earning it the popular reputation as 'fool's gold' or 'yellow copper'. However, it can be straightforwardly distinguished from gold; the latter is soft, with higher specific gravity and a yellow streak, whereas chalcopyrite is brittle, easily scratched by a nail, and has a greenish grey streak. Copper was the first metal that was used by people. It was discovered by the Neolithic man about 9,000 years ago and it gradually replaced stone as it was easier to be shaped. In Australia, search for copper began after the European settlement, leading to the discovery of substantial deposits, like the one at the Olympic Dam in South Australia, which is regarded as one of the largest copper deposits in the world. Chalcopyrite has been used for copper since smelting processes began approximately five thousand years ago. Although by no means rare, this the specimen of this mineral can be used to reflect a wider history of industrial uses of copper for a significant portion of human history. This specimen is part of a larger collection of geological and mineral specimens collected from around Australia (and some parts of the world) and donated to the Burke Museum between 1868-1880. A large percentage of these specimens were collected in Victoria as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria that begun in 1852 (in response to the Gold Rush) to study and map the geology of Victoria. Collecting geological specimens was an important part of mapping and understanding the scientific makeup of the earth. Many of these specimens were sent to research and collecting organisations across Australia, including the Burke Museum, to educate and encourage further study.A solid hand-sized copper iron sulfide mineral of brass yellow, often with an iridescent tarnish, with greenish-black streak and submetallic luster. Chalcopyrite can be formed in several ways, including crystalizing from accessory minerals in igneous rocks, or from magma or within volcano sulfide deposits. Most commonly, chalcopyrite are found in hydrothermal conditions, where it forms in hydrothermal veins. As a member of the tetragonal crystal system, it often takes the shape of tetra-headed crystals, often with striations along the sides of the crystals. #18 Copper pyrites/(chalcopyrite) in/Laurentian Slate/(page 315 of inventory)/page missing from/descriptive catalogue/ Other label: 81 /fool's gold, chalcopyrite, mineral, rock, geology, geological, hydrothermal, neolithic, european settlement, olympic dam, south australia, stone, deposits, specific gravity, greenish grey streak, brittle, mineral gold, metallic luster, cufes2, greek words

Sphalerite or sphaelerite is named from the Greek word for 'treacherous' or 'deceiver' as specimens can vary widely in appearance, making them hard to visually identify. It is a zinc sulfide with the chemical composition (Zn,Fe)S, the most important ore of zinc. Specimens of sphalerite can contain iron as a substitute for up to 25% of the usual zinc present, as well as trace elements of gallium, cadmium, geranium and indium. Small amounts of arsenic and manganese may also be detected. Sphalerite is found in igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks. It forms when carbonate rock encounters acidic, zinc-bearing fluid. It often forms in veins or in fissures of the existing rock, with colours and crystal shapes dependent on the composition of the the combining elements. It forms isometric crystal shapes including cubes, tetrahedrons, octahedrons, dodecahedrons. This specimen was collected in approximately 1852, in Broken Hill, NSW, as an adjunct to the Geological Survey of Victoria. It was donated to the Museum in 1868. Victoria and other regions of Australia were surveyed for sites of potential mineral wealth throughout the 19th Century. The identification of sites containing valuable commodities such as gold, iron ore and gemstones in a locality had the potential to shape the development and history of communities and industries in the area. The discovery of gold in Victoria, for instance, had a significant influence on the development of the area now known as 'the goldfields', including Beechworth; the city of Melbourne and Victoria as a whole.The specimen is significant as an examples of surveying activity undertaken to assess and direct the development of the mineral resource industries in Victoria and Australia, as well as the movement to expand human knowledge of earth sciences such as mineralogy and geology in the nineteenth century.A pipe-shaped specimen of sulfide-mineral zinc ore displaying patches of black, brown, beige and gold colouring. The main item has associated broken pieces. geological specimen, geology, geology collection, burke museum, beechworth, mineralogy, indigo shire, geological survey, sphalerite, sphaelerite, zinc ore, broken hill, nsw, victoria, galena, fluorite, chalcopyrite, lead, cadmium, gallium, germanium, indium, iron

8545a Docket from Tuck & Co. Limited, Asbestos & India Rubber Manufacturers, 4566 Collins Street, Melbourne; Sept. 4th, 1889; Head Office: 116 Cannon Street, London. Purchased 3 Bags of Asb. Boiler ?? at a cost of £3/- by Messrs. Abbitt & Co. 8545b Docket from G. Wood, General Founder, Kensington Iron Foundry, Macauley Road, dated Dec. 2nd, 1896; due from Mr. J. H. Abbott, For 1 doz. combination parts& 1/2 doz. stands for parts at £1/14/00. 8545c Memorandum James Oppy, Boot and Shoemaker, Fitzroy Street, Kerang, dated Aug. 23rd, 1893. Apology and advice the amount owing will be forwarded on 1st of next month (Sept.). 8545d Docket for six items purchased by Messrs. J.H. Abbott, Bendigo for £63/16/00 from The Australian Explosives & Chemical Coy. Ltd on Aug. 5, 1902. Manufacturers and Importers of High Explosives and Detonators, 356 Little Collins Street, Melbourne 8545e Docket / quote from J. Kennon & Sons, Tanners, Curriers & Leather Merchants, 206 Bridge Road, Richmond. October 19th, 1888, quotation sent to Mr. J H Abbott, Leather Merchant, Sandhurst.bendigo businesses, j. kennon and sons, tuck and co, g. wood, james oppy, the australian and chemical coy

Dolomite is a mineral, calcium magnesium carbonate, with the chemical formula CaMg(CO3)2. It is a principle component of various rock types sometimes also referred to as dolomite, including dolostone, dolomitic marble and dolomitic limestone (according to the composition of each type). Dolomite rock is found in sedimentary basins throughout the world, comprising approximately 2% of the Earth's crust. It is formed when lime mud or limestone encounters groundwater containing magnesium. Dolomite can contain elements such as lead, zinc and copper. Dolomite and limestone are used in various construction, landscaping and agricultural processes. This specimen was donated to the Burke Museum in 1868 by Alfred Selwyn as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria. It was donated to the Museum in 1868. Victoria and other regions of Australia were surveyed for sites of potential mineral wealth throughout the 19th Century. The identification of sites containing valuable commodities such as gold, iron ore and gemstones in a locality had the potential to shape the development and history of communities and industries in the area. The discovery of gold in Victoria, for instance, had a significant influence on the development of the area now known as 'the goldfields', including Beechworth; the city of Melbourne and Victoria as a whole. Dolomite and limestone are mined at several locations in Victoria, including sites in the North-East of the state in Bindi and Limestone Creek. There are notable dolomite deposits in most Australian states. The dolomitised form of the mineral tends to come from older limestone deposits, formed during the palaeozoic era in marine settings, so this specimen may have come from a deposit located along a coastline in Victoria or another state. The specimen is significant as an example of surveying activity undertaken to assess and direct the development of the mineral resource industries in Victoria and Australia, as well as the movement to expand human knowledge of earth sciences such as mineralogy and geology in the nineteenth century. This specimen is part of a larger collection of geological and mineral specimens collected from around Australia (and some parts of the world) and donated to the Burke Museum between 1868-1880. A large percentage of these specimens were collected in Victoria as part of the Geological Survey of Victoria that begun in 1852 (in response to the Gold Rush) to study and map the geology of Victoria. Collecting geological specimens was an important part of mapping and understanding the scientific makeup of the earth. Many of these specimens were sent to research and collecting organisations across Australia, including the Burke Museum, to educate and encourage further study.Hand-sized piece of pale pink dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate) with dark grey rim and hollowed centre. geological specimen, geology, geology collection, burke museum, beechworth, dolomite, mineralogy, geological survey, alfred selwyn, limestone, calcium magnesium carbonate

Otto Schott, a chemist and glass engineer, had the vision of uniform production ie making glass items that would resemble one another. At the end of the eighteenth century, with most glass items still created by hand, the quality of output was still a guessing game. Schott was the first to render this an industrial certainty. 1884 Otto Schott, Ernst Abbe and Carl and Roderich Zeiss found the Schott & Associates Glass Technology Laboratory in Jena, Germany. Glastechnisches Laboratorium Schott & Gen was born. Production started in 1886. The following year, a crucial discovery was made: borosilicate, a heat and chemically resistant glass.By it’s 25th year anniversary, the company had grown from an experimental glass factory into an internationally renowned manufacturer of optical and industrial glasses. Soon to be added was fiolax, tube-shaped glass used for vials, ampoules and syringes thus allowing the company to play a significant role in supplying Europe's nascent pharmaceutical industry. During WW2 Company was taken over for military use, and in 1945 given to the Russians as East Germany - GDR. , US troops transfer the "brain trust" of Jenaer Glas to Mainz in West and In Jena , East Germany, in 1948 the company became a state-owned "property of the people." The West German company becomes Schott Glaswerk, while the people in Jena, GDR, shorten their name to Jenaer Glaswerk. When the Berlin Wall comes down in 1989 Germany is united once again and in 1991 the company is joined and the Jena factory is brought up-to-date by 1994.This 10ml clear glass, graduated cylinder for laboratory tests, set in a plastic pentagonal base, is made of borosilicate glass. It has a pouring lip. The wide pentagonal shaped base provides stability and makes the cylinder roll-resistant. agr / ? TRS 10/0.1 / B Tol + - 0.1 / ml in 20'C / GDR pharmacy, medications, medicines, glass manufacturing, glass works, early settlers, moorabbin, bentleigh, cheltenham, jenaer glaswerk schott & gen company, west germany, east germany, berlin wall, ww2 1939-45, schott otto, zeiss roderich, borosilicate glass, glass cylinders, laboratory glass

this is a photograph taken at the original jetty at Tabbara on the Brodribb River used by Samuel Richardson who established his mill in 1882. There was a constant demand for timber to supply the growing townships of Orbost , Marlo and surrounds. It was at this mill that the original paddle steamer Curlip was built. More information in "Curlip" by May Leatch. Helena Warrem (1871-1962) was a self-taught photographer who became both the local press correspondent and a producer of humorous trompe l'oeil postcard images. Helena Warren was a thirty-two year old settler living on a small mixed farm with her husband, William, at Newmerella, near Orbost in Gippsland, Victoria, when she bought her first camera, an Austral Box quarter-plate. Her family says she was entirely self-taught, like many women photographers who started out with nothing but the instructions on the packets of film and chemicals. In over fifty years practice she graduated from the total novice, who opened all her first mail order plates in bright sunlight and ruined them, to a competent photographer who became both the local press correspondent and an inveterate producer of humorous trompe l’oeil postcard images. Helena Francis Warren (nee McKeown) was married to William John Warren and lived in Newmerella. She supplied the photos for the Back-To-Orbost celebration book in 1937 and also designed the Back-To-Orbost badge. She was known for her soft toy making. (by Ivy Rodwell in from Personalities and Stories of the Early Orbost District by Mary Gilbert).This photograph is a pictorial record of a typical family activity in the late 19th - early 20th century in the Orbost area, The clothing and manners are reflective of that time, This photograph also has significance in its association with Helen Frances Warren, a popular Orbost identity who was well known as an accomplished photographer and needleworker,A black / white photograph of a family group seated on a wooden jetty. There is a man on the right with a fishing rod. A man is standing next to woman holding a teapot and cup and saucer. On the left a woman is sitting and holding a baby on her knee. The rest are sitting or kneeling with a picnic cloth spread in front of them. There are bottles, jars, plates and cups on the cloth. on back - "The Warren Family Tabara Jetty"tabbara-jetty warren-family-orbost recreation-picnic

Henry Francis was previously in business at the goldfields at Ballarat, before coming to Melbourne in 1856. TROVE : Advocate (Melbourne, Vic. : 1868 - 1954), Saturday 19 July 1879, page 11. H. F R A N C I S & CO (Late FRANCIS & SWIFT) DISPENSING AND FAMILY CHEMISTS, M , 31 BOURKE ST. EAST, Melbourne. IMPORTERS OF Drugs, Chemicals, Patent Medicines, Surgical Instruments, And Surgical and Medical Appliances generally, H, FRANCIS & Co. solicit attention to their large and complete stock of WATER AND AIR-PROOF GOODS, Beds, Cushions, Mattresses. Pillows, Hot Water Bottles, Bed Sheeting, Portable Baths, Elastic Stockings, Ladies' Abdominal Belts, Shoulder Braces, Trusses, &c., Which, owing to their buying Direct from the Manufacturer, through their London agents, they are now able to supply at much' more reasonable rates than have hitherto obtained. THE GERMAN & FRENCH MINERAL WATERS Hunyadi Janos, Friedrichshall, Carlebad, Vichy, Pullna, Vale, &c., &c., Continually in stock, and supplied in quantities to suit purchasers. DISPENSARY AND RETAIL ESTABLISHMENT: 31 Bourke Street East; Melbourne. Wholesale Laboratory—Dawson Place, Swanston St, MEDICINE CHESTS SUPPLIED & REFITTED. TROVE : Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), Thursday 17 January 1957, page 9 'ANTINOIS EAR PLUGS Ensure mental rest; soothe the nerves in factories, plane, or train travel 3 pairs, 2/6, post free H. Francis & Co., Box 5Ó2H, Melb.' Aqua tinted clear glass rectangular with angled corners in section bottle for stopper seal, with graduations on two sides for dosage quantities. Embossed text on front , angled sides and base.Embossed on base 'K' over '4616'. On one angled side graduation marks for one tablespoon doses, on other side graduation marks for two tablespoon doses, on front 'H. FRANCIS & Co'.

Stan and Mary Parker commenced the Plant Farm in Smythe Street Wodonga in February 1949. The nursery consisted of two blocks, on one of which their house was built. They started off with approximately £70 and a 1939 Singer mini-Ute. In the early days most customers came from the farming community. In late 1951 the Parkers purchased to a new site on the corner of High and Osburne Streets. Business went well and in 1957 they purchased the adjoining block. They later demolished the old house on the corner of High Street and Osburne Street, building a new home lower on the same block. As the nursery prospered Stan and Mary built a shop and showrooms with glassed-in portion for the indoor plants and a large shaded area for the display of shrubs. In 1978 they sold the nursery to Mr. & Mrs. John Gale. In 1981 the Wodonga Plant farm was purchased Geoff and Kay Pollard and they moved to its current location at the corner of Beechworth Road and Huon Creek Road. Initially they brought it as an investment but it soon got into their blood and chose to not only continue but expand the nursery and its offerings. This included a large showroom, a water shop which specialises in pool equipment, chemicals and water testing, a children's playground and an outdoor blind centre. Further expansions led to the addition of a Tuscan-style cafe on the site which has become a meeting place. The business was nominated the Yates Victorian Best Garden Centre in Australia for many years and won the award in 1997. In 2024, the Wodonga Plant Farm is still a vibrant and popular business being operated by the Pollard Family.These items are significant because they document the story of respected Wodonga Business which has served the community for over 60 years.A selection of photographs and article documenting the story of the Wodonga Plant Farmearly wodonga businesses, wodonga plant farm, pollard family, geoff and kay pollard

Eleven page article titled Water Softening in the Boiler by the 'Alfloc' System. This is an internal method of conditioning boiler feed water and the use of coagulants designed to prevent scale formation in the boiler and accessory plant, to reduce corrosion to a minimum, and further to provide for those conditions in the boiler water which from present experience are believed to prevent the occurrence of caustic ombrittlement. Different chemicals were used to suit different types of water in different areas. Items discussed are: Summary, Introduction, External treatment, Internal Treatment, General Principles of the 'Alfloc' Internal Treatment, Precipitation of the Scale-forming Salts, Temporary Hardness, Permanent Hardness, Conditioning of the Precipitate - Floc Formation, Efficient Control of the Concentration of both Dissolved and Suspended Solids by Blowdown, Prevention of Corrosion, Testing and Control, The 'Alfloc' Reagents for Internal Treatment, 'Alfloc' Liquors, 'Alfloc' Briquettes, Alfloc' Powders, Methods of Application, Liquors - Stationary boilers and Locomotive boilers, Briquettes - Stationary boilers and Locomotive boilers, Powders, Blowdown, Sludge, Caustic Embrittlement, Control of 'Alfloc' System, Cost and Economies of 'Alfloc' Internal Treatment and 'Alfloc' Water Treatment Service. Listed on page 11 are ICIANZ Sales Offices the Australian States. Between pages 7 and 8 is a page of diagrams. They are: Showing method of feeding liquors to the feed tank of boilers for 'Alfloc' internal treatment, typical arrangement of pressure vessel and typical arrangement of 'Alfloc' by-pass feeder.sciences, instruments - general, scalebuoy, bill ashman collection, alfloc system, imperial chemical industries limited alkali division, alfloc liquors, alfloc briquettes, alfloc powders, imperial chemical industries of australia and new zealand limited, elder smith & co limited, chemical & textile agencies pty ltd

This is a photograph of Alan, Keith, Preston and Jim Nixon. George Nixon (1862-1941) selected land in Bete Bolong in the 1890's. He married Emily Warren in 1889 in Orbost. He was a shire councillor. He was a prominent breeder of Clydesdales and after a serious fall off a horse walked with a walking stick and special boot for the rest of his life. He was well-known for his interest in cars, horse-racing and politics.He was married to Emily Warren in 1889 in Orbost. Mrs Nixon (Emily)was the first Red Cross president during WW1. They had ten children.both George and Emily are buried in the Orbost Cemetery. (ref:From White Knowle to Pumpkin Point by Hon Peter Nixon A.O.) The photographer was Warren, Helena (1871-1962) who was a self-taught photographer who became both the local press correspondent and a producer of humorous trompe l'oeil postcard images. Helena Warren was a thirty-two year old settler living on a small mixed farm with her husband, William, at Newmerella, near Orbost in Gippsland, Victoria, when she bought her first camera, an Austral Box quarter-plate. Her family says she was entirely self-taught, like many women photographers who started out with nothing but the instructions on the packets of film and chemicals. In over fifty years practice she graduated from the total novice, who opened all her first mail order plates in bright sunlight and ruined them, to a competent photographer who became both the local press correspondent and an inveterate producer of humorous trompe l’oeil postcard images.This photograph has significance in its association with Helen Frances Warren, a popular Orbost identity who was well known as an accomplished photographer and needleworker, This item is also associated with a prominent Orbost family. George Nixon was the son of James and Alice Nixon. The Nixon families were among the earliest settlers on the Snowy River. It is an example of the early book-keeping of an Orbost business in the early 20th century.A black / white photograph of three boys and a baby in a carved out pumpkin with a flag at each end and "HMAS ORBOST" carved in the front.warren-helena pumpkins nixon

Victorian Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (VIOSH) Australia is the Asia-Pacific centre for teaching and research in occupational health and safety (OHS) and is known as one of Australia's leaders on the field. VIOSH has a global reputation for its innovative approach within the field of OHS management. VIOSH had its first intake of students in 1979. At that time the Institution was known as the Ballarat College of Advanced Education. In 1990 it became known as Ballarat University College, then in 1994 as University of Ballarat. It was 2014 that it became Federation University. VIOSH Australia students are safety managers, senior advisors and experienced OHS professionals. They come from all over Australia and industry. Students are taught active research and enquiry; rather than textbook learning and a one-size fits all approach. VIOSH accepts people into the Graduate Diploma of Occupational Hazard Management who have no undergraduate degree - on the basis of extensive work experience and knowledge Letter from the Department of Defence to Dennis Else looking at the possibility of Ballarat College of Advanced Education conducting a short course in occupational health and safety for RAAF hygiene personnel. It would teach the fundamentals of occupational health and environmental monitoring and control. Better use of the practical time allocated is needed. Noise induced hearing loss is the most widespread occupational health risk in the RAAF. Industrial chemicals used and hazardous industrial procedures in the repair and maintenance of aircraft are an issue needing resolution. Existing terminal objectives for basic hygiene inspectors course in occupational health and safety are provided for comment. Information provided by K R Stone, Flight Lieutenant for Director General of Air Force Health Services. Eight A4 pages,typed. Handwritten note top left cornerLetterhead of Department of Defence - Air Force Office.Signature of K R Stoneviosh, victorian institute of occupational safety and health, department of defence, air force office, raaf, ballarat college of advanced education, dennis else, k r stone, flight lieutenant, director general of air force health services, short course in occupational health and safety, raaf hygiene personnel, hearing loss, industrial chemicals, hazardous industrial procedures

The Museum of the Ballarat School of Mines was established in 1872. The curator in 1882 was Ferdinand Krause. Prefatory Notice by James Oddie). The want of a guide through the technical collections of The School Mines has long been felt by visitors and students - a guide, not so much to those who merely 'look' at the various exhibits in the Museum, but an instructor to those who desire to take away with them some practical information on the natural occurrence and economical value of the objects exhibited. This want is being filled by the labour of Mr. Krause, whose first installment - 'A Descriptive Catalogue of the Minerals' - is herewith represented to the visiting public." Introduction to the catalogue: " The collection is still in its early growth, and far from being a complete representation of the Mineral Kingdom; many varieties, species, and even whole groups are absent. This state of incompleteness will, no doubt, be adjusted in the sequence, and progressive lists issued from time to time. 'Ad interin' the present catalogue will, be found useful to students and visitors of the School. As far as practicable, the classifications of the minerals accords with that adopted at the Royal School of Mines, London. The numbers prefixed to the species in the catalogue agree with those on the descriptive labels which accompany each specimen, and also with those attached to the specimens themselves. On the descriptive labels the chemical composition of the minerals is expressed in formulae usually employed in standard mineralogical works. Students who have note paid attention to mineralogical chemistry will note that each dot over a symbol is equivalent to one atom of oxygen, .... A bar through a symbol denotes a double atom of the base, .... " In 1882 the collection was housed in 33 cases. The catalogue outlines the specimen types housed in each case. Brown soft covered book of 94 pages with gold lettering on the front. The book includes a plan of the museum layout, plan of the grounds and buildings of the Ballarat School of Mines and a prefatory notice by James Oddie. It also includes handwritten notes by Curator Ferdinand Krause. .2) Business card of I.H. Barbery, engraver with F.W. Niven. The lithography of the plan of the Ballarat School of Mines at the back of the catalogue was undertaken by F.W. Niven.Handwritten inclusion of extra entries (probably by Ferdinand Krause).ballarat school of mines, ballarat school of mines museum, museum, krause, ferdinand krause, fm krause, oddie, james oddie, geology, mineralogy, charles boyd, royal school of mines london, london school of mines, classification

This ceramic cover was recovered from the wreck of the 1882-1883 George Roper between the late 1960’s to early 1970’s. It is one of the shipwreck artefacts in the John Chance Collection. The purpose of the cover is unclear. The holes could be for ventilation. The cover may have been used to protect food or keep it at an even temperature. It may also have been used for covering fragrant petals, allowing some scent to escape through the holes. The residue around the underside of the holes and their random placement indicate that the cover could be partially handmade. The discolouration could have come from its time in the sea. The GEORGE ROPER 1882 - 1883 - The George Roper was a 4-masted iron sailing ship built in Liverpool, England, in 1882 for fast international trade with Australia. The large vessel was launched in February 1883. The ship was on its first trip, departing Liverpool for Melbourne, captained by John Ward and a crew of 31. She had almost reached her destination on July 4 1883, approaching Port Phillip Bay and being towed by the steam tug William. The weather changed to rough with fog and both the George Roper and the William hit the dangerous Lonsdale Reef at Port Phillip Heads. The Captain and crew were eventually rescued and taken to Queenscliff. Salvage syndicates were able to recover a lot of the cargo before the George Roper broke up and sank. Amongst the cargo was soft goods, draperies, household items, spirits of malt and distilled liquors, chemicals, dynamite, and 1,400 tons of steel rails for the Victorian Government. Also in the hold were Russell Stourbridge bricks, as paying ballast. The ventilated cover is as an example of domestic ceramic ware of the 1880s. The cover also holds significance as it was recovered by John Chance, a diver from the wreck of the George Groper in the 1960s-70s. Items that come from several wrecks along Victoria's coast have since been donated to the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village’s museum collection by his family, illustrating this item’s level of historical value. The George Roper is considered historically and archaeologically significant and as such, is listed on the Victorian Heritage Database, VHR S286. It is an example of a vessel built specifically for fast travel to and from Australia with a large shipment of cargo. The George Roper’s cargo of steel rails adds to the historical significance of international trade to the growing colony of Australia and Victoria in particular, with rail transportation soon to become a faster and safer form of transportation between colonial towns. Divers can still access parts of the scattered wreck and other artefacts recovered in the 1970s and 1980s can be viewed in both public and private collections. Cover; unglazed white ceramic, oval shape. The cover has holes randomly poked through its surface, one large hole is a six pointed star shape. Underneath there is a narrow rim placed slightly inside the edge. There is residue on the underneath around the holes. There is orange-brown discolouration and areas where the surface is lighter coloured. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, john chance, west coast trader, george roper, w. h. potter & sons, w.t. dickson and son, captain john ward, russell stourbridge bricks, port phillip heads, lonsdale reef, dive wreck, vhr s286, coastal trader, ceramic, vintage, ventilated cover, domestic item

This small handmade bottle possibly dates from the mid-1840s. It may have been used as a traveller's ink bottle, due to its wide mouth. It was recovered from the wreck of the Inverlochy and is part of the John Chance collection. Small glass ink bottles similar to this one were handmade, blown into a cup shaped mould, and sharply broken off from the blow-pipe at the neck and sealed with a cork or wax. The mouth of this bottle appears to have been added after it was blown. INVERLOCHY 1895-1902 - The Inverlochy was a steel sailing barque built in Scotland in 1895 for international trade. In 1902 the Inverlochy left Liverpool under the command of Captain E.R. Kendrick. There were 21 officers and crew and the captain’s wife Mrs Kendrick, on board, bound for Australia with cargo that included tools, chemicals, liquor (beer, whisky, stout, rum, and brandy), steel, iron, wire netting, hoop iron, tinplate and pig iron), and steel wire for the Melbourne Tramway Company, tiles, soap, soft goods and earthenware. On December 18 almost at their destination, the Inverlochy ran aground on Ingoldsby Reef at Point Addis, near Anglesea. The crew and passengers left the ship via lifeboat and landed at Thompson’s Creek, then walked about 20 kilometres to Barwon Heads. Salvagers were interested in the 10 miles of cable in the hold. Mrs Kendrick’s ‘high grade’ bicycle was amongst the items salvaged but she lost her jewellery and two pianos. By February 1903 the ship had broken up and objects such as bottles and casks of liquor were washed ashore. Bad weather shook the wreck in June 1903, causing the ship’s spars and figurehead to be washed ashore. This handmade bottle is historically significant for its association with being made and used during the mid-to-late 19th century. This handmade glass bottle is significant for its connection with the John Chance Collection, which is historically significant as an example of artefacts from wrecks that had been lost in the coastal waters of Victoria from thirty to over one hundred years before John Chance and others discovered them. These artefacts are a sample of goods carried as cargo or personal possessions, and of ship hardware of that era. The bottle is significant through its connection with the barque, Inverlochy, The Inverlochy is significant for its cargo, which is a snapshot of the array of goods imported into Australia at the turn of the 19th century, including cable for the Melbourne Tramway Company. The Inverlochy is historically significant and is registered on the Victorian Heritage Database, VHR S338. The wreck of the Inverlochy is important as an accessible dive site that shows the remains of a large international trading vessel and its contents. It is valuable for an insight into Victorian era of shipping and maritime history.Bottle, clear glass, handmade, mould-blown. Small pill bottle has round mouth and neck, straight sides, rectangular base, no seams, shiny surface. Thickness of glass varies. Mouth is lop-sided and lip varies in width. Inscription of logo on both wide sides. Inscription embossed on sides [tear drop] logo. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, john chance, inverlochy, scotland, captain e.r. kendrick, melbourne tramway company, tramway cable, ingoldsby reef, point addis, anglesea, thompson’s creek, barwon heads, victorian, antique, handmade, mould blown, small glass bottle, rectangular glass bottle, pill bottle

The Ballarat School of Mines is a predecessor institution of Federation University Australia. Bound copies of the Ballarat School or Mines Students' Magazine. 1924 * Dr J.R. Pound * Noel Hay Obituary * The History of Chemistry * Literary Society * Herald B. Herbert * Chemistry in Modern Life by Val G. Anderson * Chemistry in Literature by J.R. Pound * School Literary Society * Ladies in Pharmacy * Musings on Modern Literature - Mainly Drama (W.G. C.) * Trip to Newcastle * Appreciation of the Masterpieces of Art * The Antique Room * Dressmaking * Pottery * Sloyd * The Mystery of the Atom *Inorganic Evolution by R.S. Russell * Photography * First Aid Club 1926 * The Trip to Morwell * Chemical Excursions (Yallourn) * Eastern Life and Customs by Rex Warrillow * Organic Evolution by Edwin A. Brophy * Chemistry in the Kitchen * Obituary for Professor Alfred Mica Smith * The Historical Development of Patterns i Silk Fabrics * Pottery * Literary Society * Early Evidence of Metallurgy in Britain * Brief Description of the Magnet Silver Mine, Tasmania * The manufacture of Leather Photographs * SMB Athletics Team, winners of the Herald Shield (M. Timmings, L. Evans, F. Sheahan, R. Collins, A. Murfett, W. Hughes, L. Hillman * SMB Football Team * Ballarat Technical Art School Tennis Four * SMB Girls' Basketball Team * SMB GIrls Hockey Team * Ballarat Junior Technical School Scholarship and Studentship Winners * On Punctuation Advertisements: Sunshine Biscuits, Harris Powell and Sandford, W. Gribble & Co., Gilbert Motors, T.J. Haymes The Wallpaper King, C. Marks and Co., Wilson's Tailors and Mercers, George S. Grant, Miss A. Corin Art Worker, Tunbridges, Felton, Grimwade & Co., Hasten and Ewins, Ballarat Wireless Stores, Fred A. Reed, Suttons, E. Hall-Jones, Stansfield and Smith, Ballarat Gas Company, Richards and Co Studio, F.H. Drew, Adam Scott, R.A. Hudson, Huttons, J.A. Holland, A.E. White, F. Barrow Monumental Sculptor, R. Young, H.A. Evans, Alexandria Tea Rooms, W. Cornell Chemist, Black Cat Tea Rooms, J.A. Reynolds, A.M. Palmer, Morris Cars and Trucks, Mrs Stones, Millers The Clothiers, T.G. Skewes, Wattle TEa Rooms, H.B. Selby, Middleton and Morris, C.P.A. Taylor, Thornton Studios, Fred Irwin, Isaac Abraham, Ballarat Radio Listening-In, Baxter and Stubbs 1927 * Chemists Trip to Melbourne (Mount Lyell Chemical Works, Footscray, Yarraville * Literary Society * Mr J.N. Rowell 1928 * Prohibition in U.S.A. by Ed A. Brophy * Dr. J.W. Mellor and His Work at Stoke, England by Reginald C. Callister * The Science of Chemistry by C.A. Schache * Trip to Yallourn (Brown Coal Deposits, Steam Plant at Yallourn, Switchgear and Transformers, Briquette Factory * Walhalla Past and Present by G.E.B. * The Hand Loom * Precious Stones 1929 * The Old Brewery * The History of Chemistry by J.R. Pound * Occurrence of Mineral Oil in Gippsland * Experiences with Malayan Chinese by R. Warrillow * Organise Colors (Dyestuff Pigments) in Rubber Goods 1930 * News from Chine by Henry Kum Yuen * L'Art Moderne * The Story of Clay by T.H. Trengrove * A Glimpse of England * The Beginnings of Arithmeticballarat school of mines, pottery, ceramics, reginald callister, metallurgy, chemistry, j. pound, alfred mica smith, herald shield, harold herbert, lindsay hillman, john rowell, j.r. pound, noel hay, drawing from antique, yallourn excusion, walhalla, sunshine biscuits, harris powell and sandford, w. gribble & co., gilbert motors, t.j. haymes, the wallpaper king, c. marks and co., wilson's tailors and mercers, george s. grant, miss a. corin art worker, tunbridges, felton, grimwade & co., hasten and ewins, ballarat wireless stores, fred a. reed, suttons, e. hall-jones, stansfield and smith, ballarat gas company, richards and co studio, r.a. hudson, huttons, j.a. holland, a.e. white, f. barrow monumental sculptor, r. young, h.a. evans, alexandria tea rooms, w. cornell chemist, black cat tea rooms, j.a. reynolds, a.m. palmer, morris cars and trucks, mrs stones, millers the clothiers, t.g. skewes, wattle tea rooms, h.b. selby, middleton and morris, c.p.a. taylor, thornton studios, fred irwin, isaac abraham, ballarat radio listening-in, baxter and stubbs, mount lyell chemical works, footscray, c.a. schache, yallourn briquette factory, t.h. trengrove, history of chemistry, excursions, morwell, morwell excursion, women in pharmacy, mt lyall, excursion, slloyd, drawing from the antique, james pound, yallourn, yallourn excursion, ballarat arch of victory, mt macedon, f.h. drew, adam scott, university women

This handheld portable pendulum quadrant scale was used to weigh small paper items such as letters and documents, powdered chemicals or metals like gold, and animal fleece samples. This mechanical scale can weigh up to a maximum of 10 ounces, which is about 285 grams or one-and-a-half cups of brown sugar. The operator holds the scale’s ring and connects the item to be weighed onto the wire clip. The weight of the item causes the pendulum to pivot, and the scale measures the weight of the object, indicated by the arrow. This scale belonged to Dr William Roy Angus and is now part of Flagstaff Hill’s comprehensive W.R. Angus Collection, donated by the family of Dr W R Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. The W.R. Angus Collection: - The W.R. Angus Collection includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) and Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. It includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. During World War II He served as a Military Doctor in the Australian Defence Force. Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Both Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill and the layout of the gardens there. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This letter scale is the only one of its type in our collection. It is an example of objects belonging to Dr. W. R. Angus, 1901-1970, surgeon and oculist. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The Collection includes historical medical objects that date back to the late 1800s.Letter scale, a handheld quadrant fixed pendulum scale made from silver-plated metal. This small weighing instrument is shaped like a quarter-circle with a metal ring, a fixed pendulum counterweight and a decorative pivoting arrow indicator. A hanger clip is attached to a short arm of the scale. Measurements are embossed on the arc of the circle, labelled in ounces (oz) and ranging from 0 to 10 at unequal distances apart. The scale is part of the W.R. Angus Collection.Scale measurements, "OZ" (ounces), "0 /14 1/2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 "flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, dr w r angus, mira hospital, w.r. angus collection, scale, weighing instrument, measure weight, postal scale, chemist scale, letter, weigh, post, office, quadrant scale, letter scale, handheld, portable, mechanical scale, pendulum scale, fixed balance scale

TROVE : The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957) Thursday 14 February 1867 p 1 Article 'THE EXHIBITION. OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTION OF PRIZES. The culminating point in the history of the Intercolonial Exhibition of 1866-7, was reached yesterday, when His Excellency Sir Henry Manners Sutton, Governor of Victoria, publicly received the reports of the jurors, and formally declared their awards. .........................CHEMICAL AND METALLURGICAL PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES....................... MEDALS - VIctoria .............John Kruse, chemist, Melbourne - For his fluid magnesia...........................'. Haines, Gregory, 1994, Á History of Pharmacy in Victoria, The Australian Pharmaceutical Publishing Company in association with the Pharmaceutical Society of Australai (Victoria) Ltd, Melbourne, Australia.opp. page 54, photo of 'John Kruse' and of 'John Kruse's pharmacy, Russell Street, Melbourne, 1866'. TROVE : Melbourne Punch (Vic. : 1855 - 1900) Thursday 21 January 1897 p 3 Article A Musical Genius. BY X. THERE is a chemist's shop in Hawthorn in the drawingroom over which some of the best, music that has ever been heard under the Southern Cross has been discoursed. Here John Kruse, the famous violinist , has delighted his late father with his violin. Here Nellie Mitchell's (Madame Melba's) voice found appreciative admiration long before she became famous. It is the shop of John Kruse, chemist and druggist, the inventor of fluid magnesia, insecticide and a world of well-known articles of daily consumption. The old mail died some time back, but lived long enough to gratify his chief wish, viz,, to see his famous son, Herr Johann Kruse. John journeyed from Germany to see his dying father. His brief but brilliant sojourn amongst us will be remembered by all lovers of music. TROVE: Colac Herald Friday 1 September 1876, page 4, Article. TROVE: The Argus Tuesday 2 July 1867, page 3, Advertisement. 'Felton Grimwade, 125 Russell Street, Melbourne'Clear glass bottle, oval shaped in section with text embossed on both sides and on base. Embossed on base 'M65' over '1923 6' over 'AGM'. Side 1 : 'KRUSES PRIZE MEDAL MAGNESIA' Side 2 : 'THIS BOTTLE IS THE PROPERTY OF FELTON GRIMWADE & CO PTY. LTD. MELBOURNE'. Over the numeral '1'.chemist, magnesia

TROVE : The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957) Thursday 14 February 1867 p 1 Article 'THE EXHIBITION. OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTION OF PRIZES. The culminating point in the history of the Intercolonial Exhibition of 1866-7, was reached yesterday, when His Excellency Sir Henry Manners Sutton, Governor of Victoria, publicly received the reports of the jurors, and formally declared their awards. .........................CHEMICAL AND METALLURGICAL PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES....................... MEDALS - VIctoria .............John Kruse, chemist, Melbourne - For his fluid magnesia...........................'. Haines, Gregory, 1994, Á History of Pharmacy in Victoria, The Australian Pharmaceutical Publishing Company in association with the Pharmaceutical Society of Australai (Victoria) Ltd, Melbourne, Australia.opp. page 54, photo of 'John Kruse' and of 'John Kruse's pharmacy, Russell Street, Melbourne, 1866'. TROVE : Melbourne Punch (Vic. : 1855 - 1900) Thursday 21 January 1897 p 3 Article A Musical Genius. BY X. THERE is a chemist's shop in Hawthorn in the drawingroom over which some of the best, music that has ever been heard under the Southern Cross has been discoursed. Here John Kruse, the famous violinist , has delighted his late father with his violin. Here Nellie Mitchell's (Madame Melba's) voice found appreciative admiration long before she became famous. It is the shop of John Kruse, chemist and druggist, the inventor of fluid magnesia, insecticide and a world of well-known articles of daily consumption. The old mail died some time back, but lived long enough to gratify his chief wish, viz,, to see his famous son, Herr Johann Kruse. John journeyed from Germany to see his dying father. His brief but brilliant sojourn amongst us will be remembered by all lovers of music. TROVE: Colac Herald Friday 1 September 1876, page 4, Article. TROVE: The Argus Tuesday 2 July 1867, page 3, Advertisement. 'Felton Grimwade, 125 Russell Street, Melbourne' Clear glass ellipse in section bottle, with embossed text on both sides and initials and numerals on base.'KRUSES PRIZE MEDAL MAGNESIA', 'This bottle is the property of FELTON GRIMWADE & CO Pty Ltd Melbourne on sides. 'S1935' 'AGM' on base.magnesia, kruse, felton, grimwade, chemist

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Kix was first manufactured by Clark King & Co.after World War II. The offices were located in 237 Queen Street Melbourne. Clark, King &Co Pty Ltd started business in the early 1920's and were known as the poultry food specialist. The head of the firm, Mr Clive Harrison Clark was know as a successful poultry farmer and exhibitor of prize birds, he was the secretary of the Brighton Poultry Society.KIX was used by citizens of MoorabbinA yellow heavy cardboard container with metal swivel top containing a white powder. Front: KIX - STRONGEST - INSEDTICIDE - keeps on killing - FLEAS - SILVERFISH - BUGS - LICE - MOTHS - ANTS - COCKROACHES - FOR DOGS, CATS AND ALL ANIMALS BACK: DIRECTIONS Fleas and Lice. Kix keeps on killing fleas and lice for weeks. An occasional dusting will FLEA-PROFF dogs and cats. Dust Kix on the hair of dogs commencing at the neck and ru it in with the fingers. If the dog appears irritated after treatment, it will be due to the efforts of fleas to escape and indicates both the effectiveness of Kix and the necessity of treatment. Sprinkle Kix on the head and neck of cats and rub well in. Use Kix on poultry also. In personal hygiene against fleas Kix may may dusted on underwear socks etc. Use Kix also for head lice and body lice. Silverfish, cockroaches, Bugs, Ants. Duct Kix where necessary and it will remain effective for months. These pest take some hours to die, but death is certain. Active Constituents: 5% Para Para Dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane, 2.5% Isobornly Thiocyanoacetate. DAVID CHEMICALS PTY LTD. Clayton, Victoria Contents 1½ ozskix, insecticide, ddt, pets, moorabbin, poultry