The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.Earthenware dessert plate, cream colour. Made by Alfred Meakin, England. Backstamped ‘Alfred Meakin England’. flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, alfred meakin, ceramics, earthenware, kitchenware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/The form of the jug has been in use for many centuries.Stoneware jug. Two tone brown glaze with pierced lip behind spout. Spout chipped.None.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, jug, ceramic jug

Robert and Ada Zull built an Alistair Knox designed house at 2 (lot 8) Metery Road, Eltham, a one acre property for their family of five in the mid 1960s. This series of photographs shows the newly built house and pagoda, building rubble and wet conditions at the time. Susan Bennett, nee Zull's reminiscences are published in EDHS Newsletter, February and April 2020. ".. Outside was a mess of wet, sticky clay that made access to the house difficult... " This series of photographs together with the account of personal remiscences provide a unique document of the construction of an Alistair Knox designed home. Knox was a pioneer in the use of mudbricks and recycled materials and is significant to his contribution of this style of architecture in Eltham and the wider Shire of Nillumbik.zull family, eltham south, 2 metery road, alistair knox, construction, mud

Bendigo Pottery was established in the 1850s, when Scottish migrant George Duncan Guthrie stumbled upon a local clay deposit and created a successful pottery business. Soon, it would rival the great Staffordshire potteries of 19th century England. It opened to tourists in 1971. Alex Gill began working at the Bendigo Pottery inn 1935 at the age of 13. Six months later he began an apprenticeship at the pottery and retired in 1986 as a Master Potter.Alex Gill works his potter's magic in Bendigo, Woman's Day Magazine Article by Heather Waby. The article is on Alex Gill about the 50 years that he began when he was 13 years old. It contains photos of Alex working at the pottery and some of his speciality products.history, bendigo, merle lummis collection, alex gill bendigo pottery

Newspaper clipping from The Age titled "Tram limit warning on Yarra Bridge". about structural issues with the Victoria St Richmond bridge. Notes the bridge was 127 years old at the time. VicRoads placed a tram restriction of one tram on the bridge at any one time, pending repairs. Has a photo of C class tram 3028, crossing the bridge, with scaffolding on one side. Item by Clay Lucas, photo by Joe Armao.Yields information about the Victoria St bridge, Kew and the need for repairs.Newspaper cutting from The Age, 28/7/2011tramways, bridges, victoria st, vicroads, repairs

Minute Book for the Eltham District Gun Club from the first meeting held at the Shire Hall, 6th Sept 1948 to 9th May 1950. Those recorded present at the first meeting were: K. Maxwell, C. Norman, R. Norman, W.R. Squire, R.J. Squire, C. Bode, J. Harris, R. Staff, C. Thorne, F. Jones, W.S. Harrison, F.N. Squire and C.T. Martin. F.N. Squire was appointed President. C.T. Martin appointed Secretary. Those appointed to Committee were C.Bode, H.Correll, J. Harris, C. Thorne, F. Jones, W.R. Squire, R.J. Squire Finacial funds for the club to be raised by debentures issued to members, valued at £5 each. It was agreed that the Eltham Gun Club was to be affiliated with the Australian Clay Pigeon Trap Shooting Association J. Shallard was to be appointed club solicitor Club to be known as Eltham District Gun Club (Clay Targets) Commercial Bank of Australasia to be used for club's banking puposes Annual membership fee fixed at £5 k. maxwell, c. norman, r. norman, w. squire, r.j. squire, c. bode, j. harris, r. staff, c. thorne, w.s. harrison, f.n. squire, c.t. martin, eltham district gun club, minute book, eltham shire hall, h.correll, f. jones, w.r. squire, australian clay pigeon trap shooting association, j. shallard, eltham district gun club (clay targets), commercial bank of australasia, cba

Mark REID Mark Reid began working with clay in the early 1980s, working for a time at Kairi Pottery in North Queensland. In 1985, he and his wife Robyn set up the Torvil Pottery at Buninyong, Victoria. In 1991, they relocated to a 10 acre property in nearby Magpie and set up the Ballarat Clayfire Gallery with a working studio, gallery and residence. In 2005, the Clayfire Gallery was located to Daylesford. Reid signs his work with an incised 'Mark Reid' or 'MR'. Photograph of a hand thrown ceramic vase. australian landscape pottery, gilbert buchanan, graham wood, landscape, redbyrne pottery, ceramics, shepparton, torvil pottery, ballarat clayfire gallery

Stoneware is a rather broad term for pottery or other ceramics that is fired at a relatively high temperature.  A modern technical definition is a vitreous or semi-vitreous ceramic made primarily from stoneware clay or non-refractory fire clay. Whether vitrified or not, it is non-porous, it may or may not be glazed. Historically, across the world, it has been developed after earthenware and before porcelain and has often been used for high-quality as well as utilitarian wares. As a rough guide, modern earthen wares are normally fired in a kiln at temperatures in the range of about 1,000°C (1,830 °F) to 1,200 °C (2,190 °F); stoneware's at between about 1,100 °C (2,010 °F) to 1,300 °C (2,370 °F); and porcelains at between about 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) to 1,400 °C (2,550 °F). Historically, reaching high temperatures was a long-lasting challenge, and temperatures somewhat below these were used for a long time. Earthenware can be fired effectively as low as 600°C, achievable in primitive pit firing, but 800 °C was more typical. Stoneware also needs certain types of clays, more specific than those able to make earthenware, but can be made from a much wider range than porcelain. A domestic item used to store food products as glazing makes the container non-porous, often used for pickling. Or larger containers for kitchen flour. Items age is difficult to determine given the same techniques for making stoneware are in use today. Stoneware containers were made by many potteries in Australia and England. They were in common domestic use before plastics were invented around 1940 to store goods so this subject item is probably from around 1900 to the 1940s. Item's significance is difficult to determine given it is not associated with a place, person, historic event, or manufacturer. Its significance lies with its use as a domestic object giving today a view into our social past.Stoneware circular container with wide opening, brown top and off white base glazed finish Marked "1" on brown glazed rimflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, container, stoneware container, kitchen storage, kitchen ware

Stoneware is a rather broad term for pottery or other ceramics that is fired at a relatively high temperature.  A modern technical definition is a vitreous or semi-vitreous ceramic made primarily from stoneware clay or non-refractory fire clay. Whether vitrified or not, it is non-porous, it may or may not be glazed. Historically, across the world, it has been developed after earthenware and before porcelain and has often been used for high-quality as well as utilitarian wares. As a rough guide, modern earthen wares are normally fired in a kiln at temperatures in the range of about 1,000°C (1,830 °F) to 1,200 °C (2,190 °F); stoneware's at between about 1,100 °C (2,010 °F) to 1,300 °C (2,370 °F); and porcelains at between about 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) to 1,400 °C (2,550 °F). Historically, reaching high temperatures was a long-lasting challenge, and temperatures somewhat below these were used for a long time. Earthenware can be fired effectively as low as 600°C, achievable in primitive pit firing, but 800 °C was more typical. Stoneware also needs certain types of clays, more specific than those able to make earthenware, but can be made from a much wider range than porcelain. A domestic item used to store food products as glazing makes the container non-porous, often used for pickling. Or larger containers for kitchen flour. Items age is difficult to determine given the same techniques for making stoneware are in use today. Stoneware containers were made by many potteries in Australia and England. They were in common domestic use before plastics were invented around 1940 to store goods so this subject item is probably from around 1900 to the 1940s.Item's significance is difficult to determine given it is not associated with a place, person, historic event, or manufacturer. Its significance lies with its use as a domestic object giving today a view into our social past.Brown salt glaze stoneware bottle None (possibly made by Royal Doulton UK)flagstaff hill, warrnambool, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, bottle, stoneware bottle, storage, kitchen ware, salt glazed, stoneware, shipwreck coast

Stoneware is a rather broad term for pottery or other ceramics that is fired at a relatively high temperature.  A modern technical definition is a vitreous or semi-vitreous ceramic made primarily from stoneware clay or non-refractory fire clay. Whether vitrified or not, it is non-porous, it may or may not be glazed. Historically, across the world, it has been developed after earthenware and before porcelain and has often been used for high-quality as well as utilitarian wares. As a rough guide, modern earthen wares are normally fired in a kiln at temperatures in the range of about 1,000°C (1,830 °F) to 1,200 °C (2,190 °F); stoneware's at between about 1,100 °C (2,010 °F) to 1,300 °C (2,370 °F); and porcelains at between about 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) to 1,400 °C (2,550 °F). Historically, reaching high temperatures was a long-lasting challenge, and temperatures somewhat below these were used for a long time. Earthenware can be fired effectively as low as 600°C, achievable in primitive pit firing, but 800 °C was more typical. Stoneware also needs certain types of clays, more specific than those able to make earthenware, but can be made from a much wider range than porcelain. A domestic item used to store food products as glazing makes the container non-porous, often used for pickling. Or larger containers for kitchen flour. Items age is difficult to determine given the same techniques for making stoneware are in use today. Stoneware containers were made by many potteries in Australia and England. They were in common domestic use before plastics were invented around 1940 to store goods so this subject item is probably from around 1900 to the 1940s.Item's significance and origin of manufacture is difficult to determine given it is not associated with a place, person, historic event, or manufacturer. Its significance lies with its use as a domestic object giving today a view into our social past. Stoneware jug badly cracked and repaired with handle and short neckNoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, jug, stoneware jug, earthenware jug, kitchen storage

Stoneware is a rather broad term for pottery or other ceramics that is fired at a relatively high temperature.  A modern technical definition is a vitreous or semi-vitreous ceramic made primarily from stoneware clay or non-refractory fire clay. Whether vitrified or not, it is non-porous, it may or may not be glazed. Historically, across the world, it has been developed after earthenware and before porcelain and has often been used for high-quality as well as utilitarian wares. As a rough guide, modern earthenwares are normally fired in a kiln at temperatures in the range of about 1,000°C (1,830 °F) to 1,200 °C (2,190 °F); stoneware's at between about 1,100 °C (2,010 °F) to 1,300 °C (2,370 °F); and porcelains at between about 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) to 1,400 °C (2,550 °F). Historically, reaching high temperatures was a long-lasting challenge, and temperatures somewhat below these were used for a long time. Earthenware can be fired effectively as low as 600°C, achievable in primitive pit firing, but 800 °C was more typical. Stoneware also needs certain types of clays, more specific than those able to make earthenware, but can be made from a much wider range than porcelain. A domestic item used to store food products as glazing makes the container non-porous, often used for pickling. Or larger containers for kitchen flour. Items age is difficult to determine given the same techniques for making stoneware are in use today. Stoneware containers were made by many potteries in Australia and England. They were in common domestic use before plastics were invented around 1940 to store goods so this subject item is probably from around 1900 to the 1940s. Item's significance is difficult to determine given it is not associated with a place, person, historic event, or manufacturer. Its significance lies with its use as a domestic object giving today a view into our social past.Brown Stoneware jug with short neckThe number "1" under neck flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, jug, stoneware jug, salt glaze

Stoneware is a rather broad term for pottery or other ceramics that is fired at a relatively high temperature.  A modern technical definition is a vitreous or semi-vitreous ceramic made primarily from stoneware clay or non-refractory fire clay. Whether vitrified or not, it is non-porous, it may or may not be glazed. Historically, across the world, it has been developed after earthenware and before porcelain and has often been used for high-quality as well as utilitarian wares. As a rough guide, modern earthen wares are normally fired in a kiln at temperatures in the range of about 1,000°C (1,830 °F) to 1,200 °C (2,190 °F); stoneware's at between about 1,100 °C (2,010 °F) to 1,300 °C (2,370 °F); and porcelains at between about 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) to 1,400 °C (2,550 °F). Historically, reaching high temperatures was a long-lasting challenge, and temperatures somewhat below these were used for a long time. Earthenware can be fired effectively as low as 600°C, achievable in primitive pit firing, but 800 °C was more typical. Stoneware also needs certain types of clays, more specific than those able to make earthenware, but can be made from a much wider range than porcelain. A domestic item used to store food products as glazing makes the container non-porous, often used for pickling. Or larger containers for kitchen flour. Items age is difficult to determine given the same techniques for making stoneware are in use today. Stoneware containers were made by many potteries in Australia and England. They were in common domestic use before plastics were invented around 1940 to store goods so this subject item is probably from around 1900 to the 1940s. Item's significance is difficult to determine given it is not associated with a place, person, historic event, or manufacturer. Its significance lies with its use as a domestic object giving today a view into our social past.Stoneware circular container with wide opening, brown top and off white base. Handholds moulded on each side glazed finish, cracks in base.Noneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, container, stoneware container, kitchen storage, kitchen ware

John Nunn was one of the earliest brickmakers on record in Ballarat and has a road named for him - Nunn Street - where he resided..1) An oblong-shaped timber box open at top. Only butt joints are used. Iron strapping wraps around the vertical pieces of timber and across the top edge of the box. The longest pieces of vertical timber protrude past the end and are shaped like solid handles - one is broken. On each end piece there are small, blank iron plates held with screws. The base piece of timber is made from two different width weatherboard-style timbers. The nails in the base piece appear to be hand-made. Remnants of clay still line the interior. .2) Light brown brick. Please note: Brick mould and brick may be from different sources..1) Handwritten (possibly in ink) on one long side: MR H. G. SMITH ...(illegible) Ballarat .2) Imprinted: J. NUNNjohn nunn, j nunn, brick, mould, brick mould, industrial mould, brickmaker, ballarat, clay, ceramics

A toy is an item that is used in play, especially one designed for such use. It is mainly intended for use by children, though may also be marketed to adults under certain circumstances. Playing with toys can be an enjoyable means of training young children for life in society. Different materials like wood, clay, paper, and plastic are used to make toys. Many items are designed to serve as toys, but goods produced for other purposes can also be used. For instance, a small child may fold an ordinary piece of paper into an airplane shape and "fly it". Playing with toys is considered to be important when it comes to growing up and learning about the world around us. Younger children use toys to discover their identity. The subject item is significant as it is an early example or a toy that was designed to fill the need for children to learn cause and effect, explore relationships, and practice skills they will need as adults. Adults also can use toys on occasion to form and strengthen social bonds, teach, help in therapy, and to remember and reinforce lessons from their youth. Wooden box with pieces of wood inside of various sizes believed to be a child's construction toySome pieces have designs

When Ballarat Junior Technical School's new building was opened in 1921, the surrounding area was rubble-strewn with raw clay slopes. The Head, A W Steane designed the landscaping of the slopes from the Gaol wall down to the Battery Paddock. The boys did much of the work. Apart from beautifying the grounds, this project occupied their leisure time, particularly as they had nowhere to play. The school acquired the gaol site in April 1969. The work of improving the grounds which was begun by A W Steane and his students is being carried on.Eight Form 1 boys from Ballarat Technical School planting trees at the old Ballarat Gaol terraces. Don Ogilvie is in the foreground. Peter Murley is planting watched by Frank McKenzie in the background. Boys from left: John Brown, Bradley Julius, Gary Green, Steven Ryan, Kim Hall, Peter Gross, Peter Rasmussen.Details of photograph written in pencil on back "Ballarat Courier Press Photograph - Copyright - " stamped on back.ballarat junior technical school, grant street garden, garden terrace, ballarat gaol, battery paddock, former ballarat gaol walls, don ogilvie, john brown, bradley julius, gary green, steven ryan, kim hall, peter gross, peter rasmussen., peter murley, frank mckenzie, ballarat technical school

Chris Pittard is a painter who has been working with clay for over 15 years. Pittard studied Fine Arts at RMIT and VCA and has exhibited paintings for a number of years. Pittard divides his time between teaching, drawing and painting and working in the ceramics studio where he creates distinctive pieces. Chris Pittard's ceramic pieces translate the narrative to the vessel. His vessels speak to us about our place and even his personal stories become more universal expressions.In early 2005 there was a flood which raged through the creeks cutting through the Shire of Nillumbik (Eltham). Not usually affected by catastrophe, these surging waters destroyed bridges and threatened roads. When the water subsided along the banks of the creek, trees had fallen, flotsam and jetsam piled up and even weeks later the long grass flattened by the flood continued to map the raging waters flow. The combination of slightly threatening and destructive forces and eerie beauty interested me. This at a time when world events of a far more horrific and tragic nature where presented to us by strangely beautiful coloured photos in our daily papers. These connections may not be obvious but it was certainly something I was thinking about while making this ceramic piece.flood, chris pittard, eltham, nillumbik

The Thompson brothers, George and Joseph, formerly of Ballarat and the new owners of Yallum Park, established the Glenthompson Brickworks in 1900. The entire process of creating a solid, pressed Glenthompson Brick happens on site, where red and cream clay is excavated. Brick presses dating back to 1940 are still in operation today, the kilns are stacked by hand to ensure specific needs are met and colour varieties are achieved. Refined oil is used to fire down draught kilns, which allows temperatures to be adjusted to ensure unique colour ranges are achieved.Colour photographs of kilns at Glenthompson Brickworks. building, heritage, glenthompson, industry, industrial heritage, brickworks, oven, glenthompson brickworks, george thompson, joseph thompson

Located in Surrey Park, this photo was taken about 1909-1912. The Surrey Hills Swimming Club formed in 1906 and swimming carnivals were popular from this time. The dive was created from a clay hole formed during brick-making activity at the adjacent brick works. From 1906 Carnivals were popular events. Olympic competitors trained here until Councils built Olympic-sized pools. Photo by William V Hill of Pembroke Street. Donor Mr Bill Dempsey was his nephew.A black and white photograph of a group of 15 young men standing and sitting on diving boards and a platform near some stairs. Most are wearing long trunks covering their thighs and singlets. One person is wearing a boater hat.surrey dive, swimmers, bathing costumes, surrey hills swimming club, box hill brick works, festivals and celebrations, olympics, (mr) william v hill

Julie MULLEN This work was completed during Julie Mullen's 3rd year studying Ceramics at Ballarat University College (now Federation University). The work was awarded the 1992 Selkirk Prize. The artist wrote the following in the #rd Year Final Exhibition Catalogue: "My first love is clay And together with my inspiration Drawn from the landscape, Sea and human gure, I am able to create. This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Terracotta handbuilt form with applied marine inspired objects. art, artwork, mullen, julie mullen, ceramics, selkirk prize, ballarat univesity college, available, available ceramics

There is evidence of the game of marbles in the ruins of Pompeii and the tombs of Egyptians as well as early American Indians. The earliest marbles were simply rounded stones which had been polished but this was refined to handmade versions made of clay, stone and glass. It was in the late 19th century that mass production began and it gives testament to the popularity of the game that the Dyke factory of Ohio could produce 1,000,000 marbles a day. It was around 1915 that the mass production of glass marbles began. The game reached the height of popularity in the 1920-1930’s. Many were prized for their designs.The game of marbles was one of the most common games played universally, from childhood hence has a strong link with people of all ages and cultures. Five marbles in glass jar. All are various sizes ranging from large yellow streaked with red and blue, black striped with white, marbled tan, clear with multi coloured streaks and bright blue. Shapes are roughly spherical. Materials range from glass to glazed and stone. Three have pontil marks either on end.The lid of the jar has Nestle vacuumed sealed for extra protection. Use special key to open. Old sticker on base with 173 written in black lead pencil. toys, marbles, children's games, warrnambool, handmade marbles, glass marbles, clay marbles, agate marbles

Shire of Whittlesea / Notice is hereby given that as / is likely to be seriously injured by traffic - to wit / soil, clay, sand or stone carting / The Council of the Municipality of the Shire of Whittlesea has decided to / stop all carting on such roadway as from the - day of / - 196 - , to the - day of - 196 - , / both dates inclusive / Any person who contravenes or fails to observe the provisions of this / notice shall be liable to a penalty of not more than forty dollars ($40) / By order / R G C Cook, Shire Secretary / Reservoir Printing Workspublic notices

Shire of Whittlesea / Notice is hereby given that as / is likely to be seriously injured by traffic - to wit / soil, clay, sand or stone carting / The Council of the Municipality of the Shire of Whittlesea has decided to / stop all carting on such roadway as from the - day of / - 195 - , to the - day of - 195 - , / both dates inclusive / Any person who contravenes or fails to observe the provisions of this / notice shall be liable to a penalty of not more than twenty pounds (20) / By order / R G C Cook, Shire Secretary / Arnall & Jackson, Printpublic notices

The 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles was raised as a regiment of the Royal Australian Armoured Corps on 1 May 1948 with Headquarters in Melbourne and squadrons in Sale, Benalla/Wangaratta and Albury. In 1955 Regimental Headquarters moved to Wangaratta and a second squadron was located at Albury. The Sale squadron transferred to 4th/19th Prince of Wales’s Light Horse. In 1977 8/13 VMR Regiment was reduced to an independent squadron A Squadron 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles and in 1991 was linked with 4th/19th Prince of Wales’s Light Horse forming the VMR Squadron of that regiment.Black and white photograph of officers of 8/13 Victorian Mounted Rifles at Annual camp Puckapunyal 1974.Back Row l to r: Lieuts J Clay, L Trapnell, T Ireland, Goodson,S. whitehead, R Griffiths, J boyce, Mentliskowsky,Wallman, K Courtis, J Mclean; Front Row: Major N whitehead MC, LieutsL Shefford, I Docking, Capt B Rowley, Major D Short, Lt Col J Neale, Colonel LG coleman ( Honrary Colonel ), Capt G Cole Lieuts J baines, L Jackel, J Horsley.

Glass bottles and glass jars are in many households around the world. The first glass bottles were produced in south-east Asia around 100 B.C. and the Roman Empire around 1 AD. America's glass bottle and glass jar industry were born in the early 1600s when settlers in Jamestown built the first glass-melting furnace. The invention of the automatic glass bottle blowing machine in 1880 industrialized the process of making bottles. In 2019, plans were made to re-introduce milk glass bottle deliveries to Auckland in early 2020 The earliest bottles or vessels were made by ancient man. Ingredients were melted to make glass and then clay forms were dipped into the molten liquid. When the glass cooled off, the clay was chipped out of the inside leaving just the hollow glass vessel. This glass was very thin as the fire was not as hot as modern-day furnaces. The blowpipe was invented around 1 B.C. This allowed molten glass to be gathered at the end of the blowpipe and blown into the other end to create a hollow vessel. Eventually, the use of moulding was introduced, followed by the invention of the semi-automatic machine called the Press and Blow. In 1904 Michael Owens invented the automatic bottle machine. Before this time most glass bottles in England were hand blown. This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases etc before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in the 1850s-1900s. The bottle gives a snapshot into history and a social life that occurred during the early days of Melbourne's development and the sea trade that visited the port in those days. 1850's Pontiled Black Glass Stout/Porter/Ale Beer Bottle, solid colour brown glass,concave base with Pontil scar, tapering slightly wider towards shoulder then inwards towards neck; ring of glass just below opening cork and wire type.Label "c.1850's "Stubby ale" hand made in England flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, brown glass bottle, handmade glass bottle, handmade beer bottle, handmade late 19th century bottle

Sandra JOHNSTONE (1936-Jan 1991) Born Southern California, USA Worked California, USA Sandra Johnstone was awarded a MA in Ceramics and an MFA in Plastic Arts at San Jose State University, where she later also lectured. Specialiing in functional and sculptural forms, with emphasis on wheel-thrown shapes and salt-glazed stoneware and porcelain, her work is best known for salt glazing, using surface texture and colour to enhance the character of the clay. Sandra Johnstone was a visiting artist to the Gippsland Centre for Art and Design (GCAD). Salt glazed platter. This work is part of the Jan Feder Memorial Ceramics Collection. Jan Feder was an alumna of the Gippsland Campus who studied ceramics on the campus. She passed away in the mid 1980s. Her student peers raised funds to buy ceramic works in her memory. They bought works from visiting lecturers who became leading ceramic artists around the world, as well as from many of the staff who taught there."Johnstone" on basesandra johnstone, ceramics, artist, artwork, gippsland campus, jan feder memorial ceramics collection

Human beings appear to have been making their own ceramics for at least 26,000 years, subjecting clay and silica to intense heat to fuse and form ceramic materials. The earliest found so far were in southern central Europe and were sculpted figures, not dishes. The earliest known pottery was made by mixing animal products with clay and baked in kilns at up to 800°C. While actual pottery fragments have been found up to 19,000 years old, it was not until about ten thousand years later that regular pottery became common. An early people that spread across much of Europe is named after its use of pottery, the Corded Ware culture. These early Indo-European peoples decorated their pottery by wrapping it with rope, while still wet. When the ceramics were fired, the rope burned off but left a decorative pattern of complex grooves on the surface. The invention of the wheel eventually led to the production of smoother, more even pottery using the wheel-forming technique, like the pottery wheel. Early ceramics were porous, absorbing water easily. It became useful for more items with the discovery of glazing techniques, coating pottery with silicon, bone ash, or other materials that could melt and reform into a glassy surface, making a vessel less pervious to water. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CeramicThe discovery and development of ceramics in numerous shapes, form and materials, revolutionised the world.White ceramic container, glazed with single groove around circumference near lipNoneflagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics

This bottle is sometimes referred to as a black glass 'Gallon' bottle. It is used for storing and transporting liquor such as stout, porter or ale. Glass bottles and glass jars are in many households around the world. The first glass bottles were produced in south-east Asia around 100 B.C. and the Roman Empire around 1 AD. America's glass bottle and glass jar industry were born in the early 1600s when settlers in Jamestown built the first glass-melting furnace. The invention of the automatic glass bottle blowing machine in 1880 industrialized the process of making bottles. In 2019, plans were made to re-introduce milk glass bottle deliveries to Auckland in early 2020. The earliest bottles or vessels were made by ancient man. Ingredients were melted to make glass and then clay forms were dipped into the molten liquid. When the glass cooled off, the clay was chipped out of the inside leaving just the hollow glass vessel. This glass was very thin as the fire was not as hot as modern-day furnaces. The blowpipe was invented around 1 B.C. This allowed molten glass to be gathered at the end of the blowpipe and blown into the other end to create a hollow vessel. Eventually, the use of moulding was introduced, followed by the invention of the semi-automatic machine called the Press and Blow. In 1904 Michael Owens invented the automatic bottle machine. Before this time most glass bottles in England were hand blown. This is one of four bottles in our Collection that were recovered by a local diver from the quarantine area just inside the Port Phillip Heads. Ships were required to pull into this area to check for diseases and other medical issues before they could head up to Melbourne. Quite often they would drink and throw the bottles overboard. Handmade glass bottle, manufactured in the 1850s-1900s. The bottle gives a snapshot into history and a social life that occurred during the early days of Melbourne's development and the sea trade that visited the port in those days. Bottle, glass, solid dark brown (black), round, matt surface. Glass ring below mouth, neck is slightly bulbous, seam line around shoulder, body tapers slightly inward from shoulder to base. Base is concave with pontil mark. Bottle has a white mark down the side. No inscription. Generally used for storing stout, porter or ale.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, handmade bottle, handmade english beer bottle, pontil bottle, black glass, gallon