A rufous bettong is about the size of a rabbit, with body length ranging from 30cm to 38cm among species. All bettongs have long tails, roughly equal to body length. Body weight ranges from 1.2 kg in the smallest species (Northern Bettong) to 2.8kg in the Rufous Bettong, the largest of the group. Males tend to be slightly larger than females. Bettongs have furry coats, ranging in colour from grey to ginger and brown. The bettong is endemic to Australia, and is an important part of Australia's Indigenous biodiversity. There are five living species of bettong; Eastern Bettong, Burrowing Bettong, Brush-tailed Bettong, Northern Bettong, Rufous Bettong. The bettong is a member of the Potoroidae family along with the endangered Potoroos, and the extinct Desert Rat-Kangaroos. This specimen is part of a collection of almost 200 animal specimens that were originally acquired as skins from either the Trustees of the Australian Museum or from the amateur anthropologist Reynell Eveleigh Johns between 1860-1880 and mounted by members of the Burke Museum Committee around the same time. When all Taxidermy mounts were completed, they were quickly put-on display in the formal space of the Museum’s original exhibition hall where they continue to be on display. This display of taxidermy mounts initially served to instruct visitors to the Burke Museum of the natural world around them, today it serves as an insight into the collecting habits of the 19th century.This specimen is part of a significant and rare taxidermy mount collection in the Burke Museum. This collection is scientifically and culturally important for reminding us of how science continues to shape our understanding of the modern world. They demonstrate a capacity to hold evidence of how Australia’s fauna history existed in the past and are potentially important for future environmental research. This collection continues to be on display in the Museum and has become a key part to interpreting the collecting habits of the 19th century.Average sized rufous bettong with large clawed hind legs, small clawed fore legs, and a long tail that is roughly the length of its body and covered lightly in fur. The pelage of the bettong is fine and soft with the body fur cream and pale ochre in colouring with specks of brown while the underbelly is a solid cream colour. The head is small with a short muzzle and two small rounded ears, and features two round dark brown eyes made from clay.On mounting board: BMM5893/burke museum, taxidermy, taxidermy mount, bettong, rat kangaroo, bettongia, fauna, animal, animalia, potoroidae, reynell eveleigh johns, rufous bettong, rufous rat-kangaroo

Pise or Adobe Brick Cottage for Mr D. Sawer in Peter St., Eltham Design and drawings by J.M. Harcourt, Clay Nuneham, Eltham. The cottage at present day 22 Peter Street was built circa 1946. Also Drawing of planned carport and future extension for 22 Peter Street, Eltham22 peter street, building plans, clay nuneham, d. sawer, eltham, j.m. harcourt design, adobe house, j.m. harcourt designc.1946, pise house

The Dive, in Elgar Road Park was formed when water seeped into the hole from which clay had been quarried for brick-making. In 1905 the Surrey Swimming Club was formed and carnivals were held regularly. This was the venue for training Olympic swimmers prior to the Council constructing an Olympic sized pool.Black and white photo with a grassy foreground beyond which the apex of the roof only of the clubhouse is visible. Beyond this the far bank of the Surrey Dive can be seen with fencing along its perimeter.surrey dive, swimming, sports and recreation, quarries, box hill brick works, elgar road park, surrey swimming club

This clay soft drink bottle was made by Bendigo Pottery circa 1899. It was badged for and sold by A. [Alfred] Darby of Henna Street Warrnambool, (between Raglan Pde and Lava St). The internal screw thread in the neck of this bottle allows for an applied ‘blob’ top stopper to be added. The company A. Darby bottled soda water, cordial, lemonade, ginger ale and ginger beer. Darby’s also made cider, lime juice, raspberry vinegar and other specialties. There was a branch of Darby’s cordial factory in Shepparton Victoria. The building has the year 1910 on it and is now the council office. The bottle’s manufacturer, Bendigo Pottery, was established in the 1858 during the gold rush era. The bottle is part of the “W.R. Angus Collection” that includes historical medical equipment, surgical instruments and material once belonging to Dr Edward Ryan and Dr Thomas Francis Ryan, (both of Nhill, Victoria) as well as Dr Angus’ own belongings. The Collection’s history spans the medical practices of the two Doctors Ryan, from 1885-1926 plus that of Dr Angus, up until 1969. ABOUT THE “W.R.ANGUS COLLECTION” Doctor William Roy Angus M.B., B.S., Adel., 1923, F.R.C.S. Edin.,1928 (also known as Dr Roy Angus) was born in Murrumbeena, Victoria in 1901 and lived until 1970. He qualified as a doctor in 1923 at University of Adelaide, was Resident Medical Officer at the Royal Adelaide Hospital in 1924 and for a period was house surgeon to Sir (then Mr.) Henry Simpson Newland. Dr Angus was briefly an Assistant to Dr Riddell of Kapunda, then commenced private practice at Curramulka, Yorke Peninsula, SA, where he was physician, surgeon and chemist. In 1926, he was appointed as new Medical Assistant to Dr Thomas Francis Ryan (T.F. Ryan, or Tom), in Nhill, Victoria, where his experiences included radiology and pharmacy. In 1927 he was Acting House Surgeon in Dr Tom Ryan’s absence. Dr Angus had become engaged to Gladys Forsyth and they decided he further his studies overseas in the UK in 1927. He studied at London University College Hospital and at Edinburgh Royal Infirmary and in 1928, was awarded FRCS (Fellow from the Royal College of Surgeons), Edinburgh. He worked his passage back to Australia as a Ship’s Surgeon on the on the Australian Commonwealth Line’s T.S.S. Largs Bay. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1929, in Ballarat. (They went on to have one son (Graham 1932, born in SA) and two daughters (Helen (died 12/07/1996) and Berenice (Berry), both born at Mira, Nhill According to Berry, her mother Gladys made a lot of their clothes. She was very talented and did some lovely embroidery including lingerie for her trousseau and beautifully handmade baby clothes. Dr Angus was a ‘flying doctor’ for the A.I.M. (Australian Inland Ministry) Aerial Medical Service in 1928. Its first station was in the remote town of Oodnadatta, where Dr Angus was stationed. He was locum tenens there on North-South Railway at 21 Mile Camp. He took up this ‘flying doctor’ position in response to a call from Dr John Flynn; the organisation was later known as the Flying Doctor Service, then the Royal Flying Doctor Service. A lot of his work during this time involved dental surgery also. Between 1928-1932 he was surgeon at the Curramulka Hospital, Yorke Peninsula, South Australia. In 1933 Dr Angus returned to Nhill and purchased a share of the Nelson Street practice and Mira hospital (a 2 bed ward at the Nelson Street Practice) from Dr Les Middleton one of the Middleton Brothers, the current owners of what previously once Dr Tom Ryan’s practice. Dr Tom and his brother had worked as surgeons included eye surgery. Dr Tom Ryan performed many of his operations in the Mira private hospital on his premises. He had been House Surgeon at the Nhill Hospital 1902-1926. Dr Tom Ryan had one of the only two pieces of radiology equipment in Victoria during his practicing years – The Royal Melbourne Hospital had the other one. Over the years Dr Tom Ryan had gradually set up what was effectively a training school for country general-practitioner-surgeons. Each patient was carefully examined, including using the X-ray machine, and any surgery was discussed and planned with Dr Ryan’s assistants several days in advance. Dr Angus gained experience in using the X-ray machine there during his time as assistant to Dr Ryan. When Dr Angus bought into the Nelson Street premises in Nhill he was also appointed as the Nhill Hospital’s Honorary House Surgeon 1933-1938. His practitioner’s plate from his Nhill surgery is now mounted on the doorway to the Port Medical Office at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village, Warrnambool. When Dr Angus took up practice in the Dr Edward and Dr Tom Ryan’s old premises he obtained their extensive collection of historical medical equipment and materials spanning 1884-1926. A large part of this collection is now on display at the Port Medical Office at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village in Warrnambool. In 1939 Dr Angus and his family moved to Warrnambool where he purchased “Birchwood,” the 1852 home and medical practice of Dr John Hunter Henderson, at 214 Koroit Street. (This property was sold in1965 to the State Government and is now the site of the Warrnambool Police Station and an ALDI sore is on the land that was once their tennis court). The Angus family was able to afford gardeners, cooks and maids; their home was a popular place for visiting dignitaries to stay whilst visiting Warrnambool. Dr Angus had his own silk worm farm at home in a Mulberry tree. His young daughter used his centrifuge for spinning the silk. Dr Angus was appointed on a part-time basis as Port Medical Officer (Health Officer) in Warrnambool and held this position until the 1940’s when the government no longer required the service of a Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool; he was thus Warrnambool’s last serving Port Medical Officer. (Masters of immigrant ships arriving in port reported incidents of diseases, illness and death and the Port Medical Officer made a decision on whether the ship required Quarantine and for how long, in this way preventing contagious illness from spreading from new immigrants to the residents already in the colony.) Dr Angus was a member of the Australian Medical Association, for 35 years and surgeon at the Warrnambool Base Hospital 1939-1942, He served with the Australian Department of Defence as a Surgeon Captain during WWII 1942-45, in Ballarat, Victoria, and in Bonegilla, N.S.W., completing his service just before the end of the war due to suffering from a heart attack. During his convalescence he carved an intricate and ‘most artistic’ chess set from the material that dentures were made from. He then studied ophthalmology at the Royal Melbourne Eye and Ear Hospital and created cosmetically superior artificial eyes by pioneering using the intrascleral cartilage. Angus received accolades from the Ophthalmological Society of Australasia for this work. He returned to Warrnambool to commence practice as an ophthalmologist, pioneering in artificial eye improvements. He was Honorary Consultant Ophthalmologist to Warrnambool Base Hospital for 31 years. He made monthly visits to Portland as a visiting surgeon, to perform eye surgery. He represented the Victorian South-West subdivision of the Australian Medical Association as its secretary between 1949 and 1956 and as chairman from 1956 to 1958. In 1968 Dr Angus was elected member of Spain’s Barraquer Institute of Barcelona after his research work in Intrasclearal cartilage grafting, becoming one of the few Australian ophthalmologists to receive this honour, and in the following year presented his final paper on Living Intrasclearal Cartilage Implants at the Inaugural Meeting of the Australian College of Ophthalmologists in Melbourne In his personal life Dr Angus was a Presbyterian and treated Sunday as a Sabbath, a day of rest. He would visit 3 or 4 country patients on a Sunday, taking his children along ‘for the ride’ and to visit with him. Sunday evenings he would play the pianola and sing Scottish songs to his family. One of Dr Angus’ patients was Margaret MacKenzie, author of a book on local shipwrecks that she’d seen as an eye witness from the late 1880’s in Peterborough, Victoria. In the early 1950’s Dr Angus, painted a picture of a shipwreck for the cover jacket of Margaret’s book, Shipwrecks and More Shipwrecks. She was blind in later life and her daughter wrote the actual book for her. Dr Angus and his wife Gladys were very involved in Warrnambool’s society with a strong interest in civic affairs. He had an interest in people and the community. They were both involved in the creation of Flagstaff Hill, including the layout of the gardens. After his death (28th March 1970) his family requested his practitioner’s plate, medical instruments and some personal belongings be displayed in the Port Medical Office surgery at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village, and be called the “W. R. Angus Collection”. This glazed clay bottle represents early Warrnambool industry. It is also a good example of soft drink containers used in the late 19th and early 20th century and of Australian made products. Bendigo Pottery is Australia’s oldest working pottery. The kilns at Bendigo Pottery are now on the Victorian Heritage Register. The W.R. Angus Collection is significant for still being located at the site it is connected with, Doctor Angus being the last Port Medical Officer in Warrnambool. The collection of medical instruments and other equipment is culturally significant, being an historical example of medicine, administration, household equipment and clothing from late 19th to mid-20th century. Dr Angus assisted Dr Tom Ryan, a pioneer in the use of X-rays and in ocular surgery. Earthenware soft drink bottle, part of the W.R. Angus Collection. Glazed clay, 'champ' shape, two-toned colour; caramel from mouth to shoulder, beige on lower section. Inside of neck has an internal thread that could have been sealed with an applied internal ‘blob’ top stopper. Black stamped Maltese cross design emblem on front with each quarter containing text, black oval stamp on back with maker’s details. Bottle was made by Bendigo Pottery of Victoria circa 1899 and sold by A Darby of Henna Street Warrnambool.Maltese cross design, each quarter has text "A. DARBY", "HENNA", 'STREET,", WARRNAMBOOL" Oval stamp” - - - - - -RE BENDIGO POTTERY [EPSO] M - - - - - O” flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked coast, flagstaff hill maritime museum, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, flagstaff hill maritime village, great ocean road, dr w r angus, dr ryan, nhill base hospital, mira hospital, flying doctor, department of defence australia, australian army, army uniform, bottle, earthernware soft drink bottle, earthernware bottle, a. darby, henna street warrnambool, soft drink industry warrnambool, bendigo pottery, 1899 soft drink bottle, champ shape soft drink bottle, ginger beer bottle, cordial bottle, blob top, blob stopper, internal stopper

Tsatsas are small votive tablets shaped like deities, stupas, or sacred symbols. Buddhists may vow to create 100,000 tsatsas for purification and merit. These can be placed as an offering in holy sites, home altars, or gau boxes. Traditionally made of clay using moulds, tsatsas are dried, decorated, and blessed with mantras.Portable nature of tsatsas allows them to accompany practitioners on journeys, providing spiritual protection and serving as a focus for prayer and meditation. Due to their inexpensive production and portability, tsatsas made a great contribution to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet. This tsatsa is of the Buddha in a sitting position, accompanied by two standing figures. The Buddha is richly adorned with delicate carvings around it. The tsatsa features inscriptions in an ancient script.buddhist art, tibetan buddhism, holy objects

Margaret Malone was associated with a kaolin mine at Mount Egerton. WOMAN WHO MANAGES A MINE Works With A Vision (By a Special Corespondent) BALLARAT, August 22.—Like a Heroine in a Bret Harte story of the Soaring: Forties Miss Margaret Malone, the only woman mine manager in Australia, has lived most of her life in an atmosphere where hope springs eternal in the gold-seeking breast. Forty years ago her father gave up farming to seek the elusive mineral near Ballarat. "One day my mother went for a walk along the Gordon-Egerton road and picked up a pebble with a few specks of gold in it," she told an interviewer yesterday, recounting the early history of the nine she now runs at Egerton. "Dad said, There must be more where that came from,' and hopefully sank a shaft. Our hopes were dashed, however, when he found only white clay. No one realised then the value of the disappointing looking white stuff which was all that Dad could find from every shaft he sank. At last be gave up the search, and the kaolin remained untouched." Later an Englishman from a pottery town in the old country urged Mr. Malone to try and sell his clay, and he sent some to the Bendigo potteries, but nothing came of it, and it was left to Miss Malone, after her father's death, to start on her unusual career by finding purchasers in Sydney and Melbourne for her clay, and herself working the mine. Strenuous Work "Mine managing is strenuous work in more ways than one," she admitted. "I have, to go down my mine daily, ad sometimes have to descend perpendicular ladders for about 150 ft. to reach areas being worked. I have to be my own manager, she explained, "because it is necessary to teach the men I employ the methods of grading clays." A New Cure She is convinced that a number of uses for kaolin, apart from pottery, soap and drugs, are yet to be discovered. "One of my employees has already found a new use for it," she said, "although scarcely one to be generally recommended, perhaps. By chewing a small piece of the clay he firmly believes that he "cured himself of heart burn." "All That Glistens" There is more in Miss Malone's mining than meets the eye, however. The actual working of the field and the substantial profit she makes on it do not fill her days. Always before her - dangles the compelling vision that caused her father, in his day, to give up farming to seek for gold. "All the time I am getting my clay dug," she confessed, "1 am watching for the colour of gold. One of these days I may strike it." WOMAN WHO MANAGES A MINE Works With A Vision (By a Special Corespondent) BALLARAT, August 22.—Like a Heroine in a Bret Harte story of the Soaring: Forties Miss Margaret Malone, the only woman mine manager in Australia, has lived most of her life in an atmosphere where hope springs eternal in the gold-seeking breast. Forty years ago her father gave up farming to seek the elusive mineral near Ballarat. "One day my mother went for a walk along the Gordon-Egerton road and picked up a pebble with a few specks of gold in it," she told an interviewer yesterday, recounting the early history of the nine she now runs at Egerton. "Dad said, There must be more where that came from,' and hopefully sank a shaft. Our hopes were dashed, however, when he found only white clay. No one realised then the value of the disappointing looking white stuff which was all that Dad could find from every shaft he sank. At last be gave up the search, and the kaolin remained untouched." Later an Englishman from a pottery town in the old country urged Mr. Malone to try and sell his clay, and he sent some to the Bendigo potteries, but nothing came of it, and it was left to Miss Malone, after her father's death, to start on her unusual career by finding purchasers in Sydney and Melbourne for her clay, and herself working the mine. Strenuous Work "Mine managing is strenuous work in more ways than one," she admitted. "I have, to go down my mine daily, ad sometimes have to descend perpendicular ladders for about 150 ft. to reach areas being worked. I have to be my own manager, she explained, "because it is necessary to teach the men I employ the methods of grading clays." A New Cure She is convinced that a number of uses for kaolin, apart from pottery, soap and drugs, are yet to be discovered. "One of my employees has already found a new use for it," she said, "although scarcely one to be generally recommended, perhaps. By chewing a small piece of the clay he firmly believes that he "cured himself of heart burn." "All That Glistens" There is more in Miss Malone's mining than meets the eye, however. The actual working of the field and the substantial profit she makes on it do not fill her days. Always before her - dangles the compelling vision that caused her father, in his day, to give up farming to seek for gold. "All the time I am getting my clay dug," she confessed, "1 am watching for the colour of gold. One of these days I may strike it." (WOMAN WHO MANAGES A MINE Works With A Vision (By a Special Corespondent) BALLARAT, August 22.—Like a Heroine in a Bret Harte story of the Soaring: Forties Miss Margaret Malone, the only woman mine manager in Australia, has lived most of her life in an atmosphere where hope springs eternal in the gold-seeking breast. Forty years ago her father gave up farming to seek the elusive mineral near Ballarat. "One day my mother went for a walk along the Gordon-Egerton road and picked up a pebble with a few specks of gold in it," she told an interviewer yesterday, recounting the early history of the nine she now runs at Egerton. "Dad said, There must be more where that came from,' and hopefully sank a shaft. Our hopes were dashed, however, when he found only white clay. No one realised then the value of the disappointing looking white stuff which was all that Dad could find from every shaft he sank. At last be gave up the search, and the kaolin remained untouched." Later an Englishman from a pottery town in the old country urged Mr. Malone to try and sell his clay, and he sent some to the Bendigo potteries, but nothing came of it, and it was left to Miss Malone, after her father's death, to start on her unusual career by finding purchasers in Sydney and Melbourne for her clay, and herself working the mine. Strenuous Work "Mine managing is strenuous work in more ways than one," she admitted. "I have, to go down my mine daily, ad sometimes have to descend perpendicular ladders for about 150 ft. to reach areas being worked. I have to be my own manager, she explained, "because it is necessary to teach the men I employ the methods of grading clays." A New Cure She is convinced that a number of uses for kaolin, apart from pottery, soap and drugs, are yet to be discovered. "One of my employees has already found a new use for it," she said, "although scarcely one to be generally recommended, perhaps. By chewing a small piece of the clay he firmly believes that he "cured himself of heart burn." "All That Glistens" There is more in Miss Malone's mining than meets the eye, however. The actual working of the field and the substantial profit she makes on it do not fill her days. Always before her - dangles the compelling vision that caused her father, in his day, to give up farming to seek for gold. "All the time I am getting my clay dug," she confessed, "1 am watching for the colour of gold. One of these days I may strike it." (Adelaide Observer, 31 August 1929.)Hand written letter from Margaret Malone of the Mount Egerton Mine.Mount Egerton Mine February 10/14 The Manager Mining Dept Dear Sir, Last Monday week, I left with Mr Martell, a parcel of stone to be treated, requesting that cost of treatment, be deducted from some and balance of gold be forwarded me to above address. I was informed, this would occupy about a day or so, but not having received any communication so far, I shall be glad to hear from you are same. Yours faithfully Margaret Malonemargaret malone, female mine manager, kaolin, mount egerton, women

This wall section was part of the original Warrnambool Lighthouse Keeper's Assistant's Quarters built in the late 1800s. The frame was found in 2023, when the non-heritage cabinets built in the 1970s were removed as part of conservation works.The wall section is significant for being part of the original Warrnambool lighthouse keeper's quarters on the western wall. It is an example of the building materials and methods used in the late 19th and early 20 centuries.Wall frame section; a sample of the original inner western wall frame from the Warrnambool Lighthouse Keeper's Residence, Assistant's Quarters. Vertical timber slates of uneven size are fixed with short flat head metal nails to more substantial upper and lower horizontal rails. There are remnants of a sand and clay-like mortar between and in front of the slats. There are two spacers n the rear of one of the rails, made of timber and fixed with thick square handmade nails; the timber of one is rotting.flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, warrnambool lighthouse keeper's quarters, 1800s wall lining

Marion POPPLEWELL (1912-1998) Born Yorkshire Marion Popplewell visited relatives in Ballarat in the early 1940s. She loved Ballarat so much she decided to stay. She worked at a bank in Lydiard Street, opposite the Art Gallery of Ballarat, and lived in rooms above the Lydiard Street Shops. Marion enrolled in some evening classes at the Ballarat Technical Art School (a predecessor institution of Federation University Australia) conducted by Neville Bunning. He was nor overly happy with her small colourful jugs and vases, wanting her to handbuild pots, rather than wheel throw them. Marion Popplewell continued making her small wheel thrown pots with fine handles, and made glazes herself from materials imported from England. Attending classes in Ceramics up until the mid 1970s, she also took some classes in Woodwork and Needlework. Her 'Pink Glazed Jug' 1945 won a prize at the Royal Melbourne Show in the late 1940s. She died in Melbourne on 26 September 1998. This item is part of the Federation University Art Collection. The Art Collection features over 2000 works and was listed as a 'Ballarat Treasure' in 2007.Wheel thrown vessel with three slight bulges and turned foot. Deep blue glaze with rim banded in a second glaze, causing a eutectic reaction, causing the spontaneous syrupy runs down the outside of the vessel. Vessel has many small divots, suggesting the clay may have been reclaimed, or collected from nature, and not thoroughly prepared before throwing. Vessel has one small chip (13mm x 5mm) on inside of rim, but is not a threat to its overall integrity. Inscription on base: "MP 59" Sticker: "85"art, artwork, marion popplewell, ceramics, ceramics available, alumni

The coloured photograph shows the Lighthouse Keepers' Quarters at Flagstaff Hill, Warrnambool. The building was erected in the 1850s on Middle Island, Lady Bay. It was relocated to its current location in the late 1870s along with the two lighthouses, the chart room and the privy. The Warrnambool City Council replaced the iron roof on the cottage in the 1970s and further work has since been carried out. The picture shows the poor condition of the stonework on the right hand side of the cottage. After the cottage ceased to be used by lighthouse keepers, it was rented out by various organisations and later became disused. The Historical Society requested the re-connection of power. The right hand side of the cottage was repurposed for use by Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. in the 2020s it was restored and fitted out as the Alexander Farncombe room, which is used for temporary exhibitions. This photograph, a print, is one of a set of five that show the site of Flagstaff Hill. It is presumed to have been taken by John Lindsay, Founding Director of Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village. One of the photographs in the set has the pencil inscription "Photo J Lindsay". It was taken in the early 1970s during the initial stages of the development of Flagstaff Hill as a Museum and Maritime Village. The photographs belonged to the donor's grandparents, who lived in the Warrnambool district of Allansford/Naringal. The photograph is a record of the Lighthouse Keepers' Quarters at Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and Village before its development and opening in 1975. It shows the condition of the building at the time and some of the recent re-roofing. The photograph is significant for recording the condition of the original heritage listed building at that point in time.Coloured photograph, glassy print, one of a set of five. Photograph shows the Lighthouse Keepers' Quarters, focused on the Assistant's Quarters on the right. It shows the a new iron roof that had been installed by the Warrnambool City Council, and the condition of the bluestone,walls. There are clay chimney pots on the two chimneys. A set of steps are at the entry on the right hand side. The flagstaff is on the left of the photograph. The photograph's paper has the printer's watermark on the back. The early 1970s picture is presumed to have been photographed by John Lindsay, Warrnambool.Label on the back: "THE BLUESTONE COTTAGE SHOWING RE-ROOFING CARRIED OUT BY COUNCIL. The Historical Society has requested Council to have S.E.C. power re-connected"flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, 1970s, photograph, lady bay, flagstaff hill site, john lindsay, cannon emplacement, middle island, flagstaff, lighthouse keepers' quarters, lighthouse keepers' residence, alexander farncombe, re-roofing, s.e.c. connection

Stewart SCAMBLER Stewart Scrambler is also a woodfirer, making ceramic forms inspired by the Western Australian landscape from local clays and glazes and a mix of native timbers from his York property. He used an incised or impressed 'Stewart' for his mark on early works but later started incising his full name.Wheelthrown and woodfired lidded jar. stewart scrambler, ceramics, jan feder memorial ceramics collection, gippsland campus, woodfire 86, bohemian ceramics, australian studio pottery

Tunstall was named after a town in England of the same name because of the similarity of the clay. In 1945 Cr. Knox moved 'that the name of the district known as Tunstall be altered to Nunawading and the council requests that the Post Master General's Department, the Victorian Railway Commissioners and any other department concerned , give affect to such change'. This was seconded by Cr. Savage and carried unanimously.Black and white photograph of a train on lines near Tunstall. No buildings.tunstall 1921, railways

There is a slight ridge ridge along the side where the wet clay has been pushed up between the bricks as they have been stacked. Wooden press moulds were used to form the brick and lead shaped markers were used to brand a frog in the brick. The frog is the hollow in the centre of the face of the brick. This centre helps the bricks to adhere in construction.A hand-made brick. There is a slight ridge along the top side where it has been pushed up between the bricks as they dried. The frog (hollow in the centre) is an unusual elliptical shape. brick building construction

Large printed timetable for Technical School examinations in 1901. Subjects included Chemistry, Geology, Asssaying, Hydraulics, Agriculture, Engineering , Mine Surveying, Algebra, Mineralogy, petrology, Botany, Trigonometry, Euclid, Land Surveying, Steam and gas Engines, Applied Mechanics, Drawing, painting, engineering drawing, building construction, architecture, drapery, modelled design, casting clay models, composition of form and colour, Lettering, Wood Carving, historic ornament, Wood Carving. .1) Trade Subjects .2) Other subjects, including artexaminations, technical schools, trades, art, technical art school, timetable, clay modelling, ceramics

Diggers & Mining: The Digging - The Diggers. Slide reads: Contemporary writers liked to compare a diggings to a great ants' nest; in many ways the scene must have been colourful and exciting. But to some observers, the general picture was an unattractive one. They saw the unsightly heaps of clay, the trees felled, the dust everywhere in summer and the mud in winter; the flies and the mice. The next two frames contain a description of the Forest Creek diggings taken from the Argus of March 22, 1852. Markings: 24 994.LIF:6. Used as a teaching aid.hanimounteducation, tertiary, goldfields

Mark REID Mark Reid began working in clay in the early 1980. He was working for a time at Kairi Pottery in North Queensland. In 1985, Mark and Robyn Reid established Torvil Pottery at Buninyong, Victoria. In 1991 he relocated to a 10 acre property in nearby Magpie and set up the Ballarat Clayfire Gallery. In 2005, Clayfire Gallery relocated to Daylesford. Two pottery vases by Mark Reid. He signs his work with an incised 'Mark Reid' or 'MR'.ceramics, mark reid, torvil pottery, clayfire gallery

The first recorded use of meerschaum for making pipes was around 1723 and quickly became prized as the perfect material for providing a cool, dry, flavorful smoke. The porous nature of meerschaum draws moisture and tobacco tar into the stone. Meerschaum became a premium substitute for the clay pipes of the day and remains prized to this day, though briar pipes have become the most common pipes starting in the mid-1800s.A pipe made in the shape of a ram's head, coloured white or bone. It fits snugly into a shaped leather case which is hinged and closes to protect the pipe.pipe smoking tobacco

Karl Duldig’s ceramic bowl is a particularly interesting example of Karl’s ability to creatively respond to a new environment with a fresh visual repertoire, in this case, the flowering Eucalyptus in a design reminiscent of traditional European folk art. The bowl is an excellent example of the utilitarian and decorative studio pottery produced by Karl and his wife Slawa Horowitz-Duldig between 1944 and 1960. Clay was an important medium for Karl. When he was forced to flee Austria for Switzerland, working with clay became a convenient medium; and he continued to expand his use of clay in Singapore. In Australia his work in clay extended from domestic hand-made pottery to public sculptures and architectural reliefs. In 1944 Duldig purchased a kiln, which was installed in the garage of the family’s St. Kilda flat, soon after a pottery wheel was acquired. It was the beginning of a cottage industry that supplemented the family income during the war years and beyond. Duldig initially sold his decorative ceramic wares through a local florist in St. Kilda, and subsequently through shops such as the Chez Nous French Art Shop (Howey Place) and Light and Shade (Royal Arcade), and the Primrose Pottery shop in Collins Street. The Primrose Pottery shop was an extremely important commercial outlet, and hub, for emerging artists, potters and designers from 1929 until 1974. Its proprietors Edith and Betty MacMillan worked closely with their suppliers, commissioning and taking items on consignment. In the post war period important Melbourne studio potters such as Allan Lowe, Arthur Boyd, John Perceval and Neil Douglas exhibited and sold domestic wares in the Primrose Pottery shop. The Duldigs studio pottery provides a counterpoint to the ceramics produced at Arthur Merric Boyd Pottery in Murrumbeena, which was established in 1944 by Arthur Boyd, John Perceval and Peter Herbst. The emphasis on painterly decoration was important and the AMB potters also produced simple household wares decorated with Australian flora and wildlife, for example Neil Douglas also made small bowls decorated with the fairy wrens, lyrebirds, gumnuts and eucalypts. Ann Carew 2016The Duldig Studio’s collection of ceramics has national aesthetic and historic significance. It contains a representative sample of works of art in ceramics created by Karl Duldig during his lifetime, including small sculptures, as well as functional and novelty items for the tourist market during the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games. The artist’s working methods and the development of his practice are comprehensively demonstrated in the collection. This in-situ collection demonstrates the philosophy of the Vienna Secession and its inheritors that handcrafted, simple functional domestic wares might enrich both the lives of the maker and the user. This bowl is part of a collection of ceramics that has national historic significance in providing a rich illustration of an immigrant and artistic experience, and touching on the themes of settlement adaptation of artistic practice. The collection is also associated with places of cultural and historical significance in Melbourne such as the Primrose Pottery Shop, and the story of Australian studio ceramics in the post-war years. Ann Carew 2016Cream earthenware bowl with flowering gum motif and sponged green background.Duldig in script incised under.

This Sharpe Bros. one gallon stoneware Demijohn is in excellent condition and includes its original stopper. It was made between 1904 and 1930, the date from the patent of the handle until the time that the factory no long produced returnable items. The bottle was once part of Dr W.R. Angus' household and is part of the W.R. Angus Collection and could have been purchased from Warrnambool's Sharpe Bros. factory. SHARPE BROS. 1903-1972- The first Sharpe Bros. cordial factory was opened in Dunedin, New Zealand, in 1903 by English prohibition brothers John and Percy Sharpe. Sharpe Bros. made ‘health’ beverages that were non-alcoholic drinks such as ginger beer, ginger ale, lime juice, soda and cordials. The containers of these drinks were not sold with the drinks but were marked as returnable items, to be cleaned and re-used, until this practice ceased in the 1930s. Sharpe Bros. made a niche in the soft drink market by delivering drinks by horse and cart to its customers’ homes. John Sharpe patented the unique wire spiral handle in 1904. By 1905 the New Zealand company also had factories in Australia. By 1910 the company had over 20 factories including Wanganui, New Zealand; Adelaide, Albury, Ballarat, Bathurst, Forbes, Geelong, Goulburn, Lithgow, Melbourne, Newcastle, Orange, Sydney, Tamworth, Warrnambool and Wollongong. The Warrnambool factory was established in 1919 and existed until 1951. The company won awards at Australian exhibitions for its carbonated drinks, including First Prize for its ginger beer made in the Brisbane factory. The company was taken over in 1962 by Tarax Drinks Holdings Ltd, which was in turn taken over by Cadbury Schweppes in 1972. W.R. Angus Collection- The W R Angus Collection spans from 1885 to the mid-1900s and includes historical medical and surgical equipment and instruments from the doctors Edward and Thomas Ryan of Nhill, Victoria. Dr Angus married Gladys in 1927 at Ballarat, the nearest big city to Nhill where he began as a Medical Assistant. He was also Acting House surgeon at the Nhill hospital where their two daughters were born. He and his family moved to Warrnambool in 1939, where Dr Angus operated his own medical practice. He later added the part-time Port Medical Officer responsibility and was the last person appointed to that position. Dr Angus and his wife were very involved in the local community, including the early planning stages of the new Flagstaff Hill, where they contributed to the layout of the gardens. Dr Angus passed away in March 1970.This stoneware Demijohn is connected to the history of Warrnambool, as it was owned by the daughter of Dr W. R. Angus and his wife Gladys. It is part of the W.R. Angus Collection, which is notable for still being located at the site connected to Doctor Angus, Warrnambool’s last Port Medical Officer. It is also connected through its manufacturer Sharpe Bros. which had a branch in Warrnambool from 1919 to 1951, overlapping the time when the Angus family resided there from 1939 to the 1970s. The bottle is also significant as an example of the early-20th-century beverages found in local households and could have been purchased from the local Sharpe Bros. factory.This stoneware Demijohn is glazed, with a brown neck with internal thread and shoulders and a cylindrical cream base. The one gallon bottle has a flat, black stopper with a cork stem and a rubber, threaded tip. The ‘U’ shaped wire carry handle has a spiral of wire around the handpiece. An overhanging lip is on top of the bottle’s short neck above its rounded shoulder. The clay has been joined at the base of the neck, shoulder and body. The underneath is unglazed. The brown glazing on the shoulder has a run mark. Inscriptions are on the stopper and bottle. This container is part of the W.R. Angus Collection.Stamped in black on the shoulder: “KEEP THE / STOPPER TIGHT” Stamped in black on the body: “THIS JAR IS THE ABSOLUTE PROPERTY OF AND MUST BE RETURNED TO SHARPE BROS. AUSTRALIA / & NEW ZEALAND. ORIGINAL & LARGEST HYGIENIC BREWERY. CAUTION Persons Damaging, Willfully Retaining, Trading with or Misappropriating the Use of this Jar WILL BE PROSECUTED “ Stamped in script writing: “Sharpe Bros. TRADE - - - ED “ Embossed on the stopper: “AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND, SHARPE BROS.”flagstaff hill, warrnambool, maritime village, maritime museum, shipwreck coast, great ocean road, dr w r angus, dr roy angus, dr ryan, sharpe bros., bendigo pottery, bottle, stoneware bottle, demihohn, one gallone bottle, soft drink, non-alcoholic drink, drink container, jar, jug, warrnambool soft drink, hygienic brewery, cordial factory, new zealand, australia, john sharpe, percy sharpe, non-alcoholic, spiral wire handle, ginger beer, w.r. angus collection, demijohn

The 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles was raised as a regiment of the Royal Australian Armoured Corps on 1 May 1948 with Headquarters in Melbourne and squadrons in Sale, Benalla/Wangaratta and Albury. In 1955 Regimental Headquarters moved to Wangaratta and a second squadron was located at Albury. The Sale squadron transferred to 4th/19th Prince of Wales’s Light Horse. In 1977 8/13 VMR Regiment was reduced to an independent squadron A Squadron 8th/13th Victorian Mounted Rifles and in 1991 was linked with 4th/19th Prince of Wales’s Light Horse forming the VMR Squadron of that regiment.Colour photograph of a group of 8/13 Victorian Mounted Rifles 0fficers at Dining In function 22 April 1989. Standing from left : Lt. J. Burke, Capt. C. Carrington, Lt. Marshall, Maj. R. Morrison, Lt. Mathews, Capt S Whitehead, Lt. J. Clay, Maj. I. Docking, Maj. G. Cole, Lt. Col J. Allard, Maj. R. McDermott, Col J. Neale, Seated: Capt. P.Hartung, Maj. M. Oates, Capt. P. Martin, Capt. J. McLean, Capt. L. Jackel.

This photograph depicts flooding of Ozone Avenue in Beaumaris, located off Balcombe Road. Roads in the Beaumaris area lacked sufficient drains to clear surface water. In many cases streets were unsealed and without footpaths and some were dirt tracks. Gutters and road surfaces were made of clay and in the wetter months of winter, unsealed roads and tracks became impossible quagmires that were unnavigable for vehicles and pedestrians. In the first decade after World War II there was rapid expansion in construction of new houses in the suburb of Beaumaris. Utilities and infrastructure to support the growth of housing was inadequate and not provided for prior to the development of the area. Without rudimentary drainage, flooding was frequent. Storm water runoff, domestic sullage and septic tank overflow would form large pools and families were sometimes marooned within their homes. The frequent flooding caused isolation and hardship and residents endured difficulties with accessibility to facilities. These disadvantages had the potential to cause social issues for the new residents.Black and white photograph of flooding in Ozone Avenue, Beaumaris. The image shows floodwaters with boggy and rough terrain on an unsealed road with housing in the distance.Handwritten in blue ink: 2124 circled Handwritten in red ink: 80% Handwritten in blue ink on yellow Post-It note: Chap 6. underlined, 2194 Ozone Ave Beaumaris 1958beaumaris, ozone avenue, balcombe road, flooding, roads, infrastructure

Items found by Barry Maggs in the Whipstick National Park with a metal detector. A purple plastic display box with a clear plastic lid. it has ten compartments containing items made from metal, wood and ceramics. a: Five pieces of pipes made from clay wood and metal decoration. b: Clay pipe with a metal decoration. c: Four pieces of metal jewelry one to two centimeters in diameter Including a ring, a flower brooch, a pendant and a button. d: Metal button two in diameter with an inscription Warranted Superior and a coat of arms. e: Two metal badges both have ship's anchors on them, one is three centimeters round the other is five centimeters by four centimeters. g: small piece of jewelry made of metal and glass five centimeters long and two centimeters wide. h: Four pieces of hollow metal five to eight centimeters long and one centimeter diameter. i: A piece of hollow metal tube five centimeters long and one centimeter in diameter. It had a small piece of wood and some pieces of paper with printed text inside. j: a metal nail seven centimeters long and one centimeter diameter head. k: pottery, part of a gold crucible three centimeters high and three centimeters in diameter. barry maggs, whipstick national park, metal detection

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic. Crack on side. Badly stained.Backstamp very faint and unable to be read.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, mixing bowl, food preparation, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/ This bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl white ceramic plain that has two sets of edging around lip. Inside bowl has plaster designed to look like cooking mixture.flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/This bowl was made by renowned pottery company J & G Meakin of England. The firm was established in the mid-1800's. The bowl is an example of kitchenware used in the 19th century and still in use today.Bowl; white ceramic, round and tapering inwards towards base. Made by J and G Meakin England.On base, 'Ironstone China Reg SOL 391413' with symbolflagstaff hill, flagstaff hill maritime museum and village, warrnambool, maritime museum, maritime village, great ocean road, shipwreck coast, mixing bowl, food preparation, j & g meakin, pottery, stoke-on-trent, kitchen equipment, ceramic

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.White earthenware dinner plate. Crazing evident all over.Backstamped ‘Made in England S LTD’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, ceramics, tableware

The Process of Making Pottery Decorating, Firing, Glazing, Making, Technical There is a rhythm and flow to clay. It can’t be done all at once! Even the making process! It can take weeks to get everything done, especially if you can only work on your pottery once a week! Even though we have three hour classes, it’s often just not enough time! Here is an overview of some of the processes so you have a bit more grasp on some of the technical stuff! Step One – Design There are SO many ideas out there for making stuff in clay! From delicate porcelain jewellery, through to heavy sculptural work and everything in between. Deciding your direction is sometimes not that easy – when you first start, try everything, you will naturally gravitate to the style that you enjoy! The options and variations are endless and can get a wee bit overwhelming too! Check in with me before you start to ensure your ideas will work, what order you might do things, how you could achieve the look you are seeking and any other technical data required! Step Two – Making Clay is thixotropic. This means that as you work with it, the clay first gets sloppier and wetter, before is begins to dry in the atmosphere. For most things, you simply can’t do all parts of the project at once. An example of work order might look like: Get last weeks work out from the shelves Prepare clay for today’s work – roll your clay, prepare balls for throwing, make the first stage of a pinch pot) Clean up last week’s work and put it on the shelf for bisque firing Check that you have any glazing to do – and do enough of it that you will have time to finish your main project Do the next step of your next project – there might be a further step that can’t be complete immediately, in that case, wrap your work well and put onto the shelves. Letting your work rest for a while can really help keep your work clean and professional looking. Many things require bagging under plastic to keep it ready for work the next week – put your name on the outside of the bag so you can find your work easily. We have stickers and markers. Consider how you want to decorate your work – coloured slip can be applied at a fairly wet stage (remembering that it will make your work even wetter!). Trying to apply slip to dry clay won’t work! If you want to do sgraffito – you will need to keep the work leather hard (a state of dryness where you can still work the clay with a little effort and a little water and care). Step Three – Drying Most of the time your work can go into the rack uncovered to let it dry out for the following week. If you want to continue forming or shaping you will need to double bag your work – put your work on a suitable sized bat and put the bat in a bag so the base of the bag is under the bat, then put another bag over the top of the work and tuck the top of the bag under the bat. If you want to trim (or turn) your thrown work the following week, it should also be double bagged. If your work is large, delicate, or of uneven thicknesses, you should lightly cover your work for drying. When considering the drying process, bare in mind the weather, humidity and wind! The hotter and dryer, the faster things dry and work can dry unevenly in the shelves – this can lead to cracking – another time to lightly cover your work for drying. Step Four – Trimming and Cleaning Up Your work is dry! It is called greenware now and it is at it’s most fragile! Handle everything with two hands. I often refer to soft hands – keep everything gentle and with your fingers spread as much as possible. Try to not pick up things like plates too much, and always with both hands! Before your work can be bisque fired it should be “cleaned up”. You work won’t go into the kiln if it has sharp edges – when glazed, sharp edges turn into razor blades! Use a piece of fly wire to rub the work all over – this will scratch a little so be light handed. Use a knife or metal kidney to scrape any areas that require a bit more dynamic treatment than the fly wire offers! Finally, a very light wipe over with a slightly damp sponge can help soften and soothe all of your edges and dags! Trimming thrown work: If you are planning to trim (or turn) your thrown work (and you should be), make sure you bag it well – your work should be leather hard to almost dry for easiest trimming. Use this step to finish the work completely – use a metal kidney to polish the surface, or a slightly damp sponge to give a freshly thrown look. Wipe the sponge around the rim after trimming, and check the inside of the pot for dags! Trimming slip cast work: Usually I will trim the rims of your work on the wheel the following day to make that stage easier, however you will still need to check your work for lumps and bumps. Last but not least – check that your name is still clearly on the bottom of your work. Step Five – Bisque Firing When the work is completely dry it can go into the bisque kiln. The bisque kiln is fired to 1000°C. This process burns off the water in the clay as well as some of the chemically bound water. The structure of the clay is not altered that much at this temperature. Inside the bisque kiln, the work is stacked a little, small bowl inside a larger bowl and onto a heavy plate. Smaller items like decorations or drink coasters might get stacked several high. Consideration is paid to the weight of the stack and shape of the work. A bisque kiln can fire about one and a half times the amount of work that the glaze kiln can fire. The firing takes about 10 hours to complete the cycle and about two days to cool down. Once it has been emptied the work is placed in the glaze room ready for you to decorate! Step Six – Glazing Decorating your work with colour can be a lot of fun – and time consuming! There are three main options for surface treatment at this stage: Oxide Washes Underglazes Glazes Washes and underglazes do not “glaze” the work – It will still need a layer of glaze to fully seal the clay (washes don’t need glaze on surfaces not designed for food or liquid as they can gloss up a little on their own). Underglazes are stable colourants that turn out pretty much how they look in the jar. They can be mixed with each other to form other colours and can be used like water colours to paint onto your work. Mostly they should have a clear glaze on top to seal them. Oxides are a different species – the pink oxide (cobalt) wash turns out bright blue for instance. They don’t always need a glaze on top, and some glazes can change the colour of the wash! The glazes need no other “glaze” on top! Be careful of unknown glaze interactions – you can put any combination of glaze in a bowl or on a plate, but only a single glaze on the outside of any vertical surface! Glazes are a chemical reaction under heat. We don’t know the exact chemicals in the Mayco glazes we use. I can guess by the way they interact with each other, however, on the whole, you need to test every idea you have, and not run the test on a vertical surface! Simply put, glaze is a layer of glass like substance that bonds with the clay underneath. Clay is made of silica, alumina and water. Glaze is made of mostly silica. Silica has a melting point of 1700°C and we fire to 1240°C. The silica requires a “flux” to help it melt at the lower temperature. Fluxes can be all sorts of chemicals – a common one is calcium – calcium has a melting point of 2500°C, however, together they both melt at a much lower temperature! Colourants are metal oxides like cobalt (blue), chrome (green through black), copper (green, blue, even red!), manganese (black, purple and pink) iron (red brown), etc. Different chemicals in the glaze can have dramatic effects. for example, barium carbonate (which we don’t use) turns manganese bright pink! Other elements can turn manganese dioxide brown, blue, purple and reddish brown. Manganese dioxide is a flux in and of itself as well. So, glazes that get their black and purple colours, often interact with other glazes and RUN! Our mirror black is a good example – it mixes really well with many glazes because it fluxes them – causes them to melt faster. It will also bring out many beautiful colours in the glazes because it’s black colouring most definitely comes from manganese dioxide! Glaze chemistry is a whole subject on it’s own! We use commercial Mayco glazes on purpose – for their huge range of colour possibilities, stability, cool interactions, artistic freedom with the ability to easily brush the glazes on and ease of use. We currently have almost 50 glazes on hand! A major project is to test the interactions of all glazes with each other. That is 2,500 test tiles!!!! I’m going to make the wall behind the wheels the feature wall of pretty colours! Step Seven – Glaze (Gloss or sometimes called “Glost”) Firing Most of the time this is the final stage of making your creation (but not always!) The glaze kiln goes to 1240°C. This is called cone 6, or midrange. It is the low end of stoneware temperatures. Stoneware clays and glazes are typically fired at cone 8 – 10, that is 1260 – 1290°C. The energy requirement to go from 1240°C to 1280°C is almost a 30% more! Our clay is formulated to vitrify (mature, turn “glass-like”) at 1240°, as are our glazes. A glaze kiln take around 12 hours to reach temperature and two to three days to cool down. Sometimes a third firing process is required – this is for decoration that is added to work after the glaze firing. For example – adding precious metals and lustres. this firing temperature is usually around 600 – 800°C depending upon the techniques being used. There are many students interested in gold and silver trims – we will be doing this third type of firing soon! After firing your work will be in the student finished work shelves. Remember to pay for it before you head out the door! There is a small extra charge for using porcelain clay (it’s more than twice the price of regular clay), and for any third firing process! Once your work has been fired it can not turn back into clay for millennia – so don’t fire it if you don’t like it! Put it in the bucket for recycling. https://firebirdstudios.com.au/the-process-of-making-pottery/Ceramics have evolved over thousands of years.A white earthenware side plate with a gadroon edge. Has water marks and chips on front.‘Johnson Bros England Reg No 15587’flagstaff hill, warrnambool, shipwrecked-coast, flagstaff-hill, flagstaff-hill-maritime-museum, maritime-museum, shipwreck-coast, flagstaff-hill-maritime-village, johnson bros, ceramics, tableware